A Russian bath with a steam room is a guarantee of health and longevity, but so that the healing procedures bring maximum benefit, it is necessary to choose the right insulation for different designs baths, taking into account the different functionality, the humidity conditions of the premises, the material of the individual elements. In addition, it is necessary to know the technology of the insulation process, the observance of which will allow not only to keep heat in the bath, but also to significantly reduce the consumption of energy fuel. To determine which insulation is best for a bath, you need to know the positive and negative sides of each type of thermal insulation material.
Types of modern insulation
Manufacturers offer a wide range of thermal insulation materials, but do not forget traditional methods insulation, used for centuries, which can be used in the bath to this day. Among modern heaters of artificial origin, the following are popular:
Despite the high thermal insulation qualities of all these materials, it is necessary to choose the insulation that meets the requirements of safety, environmental friendliness and durability for different rooms of the bath building.
Expanded polystyrene (in common parlance, polystyrene) is used to insulate the walls of the bath outside, the attic floor or the floor in the steam room. The advantages of this material include:
Negative characteristics include the "love" of mice for foam, as well as the release of toxic substances plastic material in the event of a fire in the sauna room. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it for steam room insulation. By chewing on the material, mice and rats thereby reduce it thermal insulation characteristics... With regard to the release of toxic fumes, we can say that people are not in the steam room for too long, and the use of such a heater is quite acceptable. In addition, modern industry produces special types foam, which are approved by SanPiN for use inside residential and public buildings. For example, various decorative elements of the interior - moldings, fillets, baseboards, etc.
This material has all the properties that are inherent in foam, but with a smaller thickness of the product, it is able to maintain the same thermal insulation characteristics. Extruded polystyrene foam is more durable than polystyrene due to its dense structure, as a result of which the duration of its operation increases significantly. The material is non-combustible insulation... When sparks of fire hit it, it does not support further combustion. The negative factor is its increased cost compared to the price of its fellow. However, using it to insulate the steam room from the inside is still not recommended, like foam plastic, since these materials withstand temperatures without losing their properties no higher than +75 degrees, and as you know, in the steam room the temperature can sometimes reach significantly higher degrees.
Thermal insulation of walls with polyurethane foam by spraying
Polyurethane foam in the form of a liquid insulation appeared on the market building materials not so long ago. The essence of its application consists in spraying a polyurethane two-component liquid, which, when interacting with air, turns into a foam that is 90% composed of air bubbles. After a few minutes, the foam solidifies, increasing in volume almost tenfold.
Foamed polyurethane has a whole bunch of positive properties:
Foamed polyurethane used as insulation, in addition to all of the above, is a completely fireproof material, covering all wooden elements with a dense layer, allowing fire to spread. It also protects the wood of buildings from the penetration of harmful insects, which naturally extends the life of the bath.
Compared to other types of insulation, polyurethane foam is easily and quickly applied to any surface, regardless of their configuration. With skillful action, the thickness of the insulating layer can be different.
The negative factors of using this type of insulation include the fact that it can be used only if there is a special device for spraying liquid. And its purchase or lease requires certain financial costs and skills in handling it.
Mineral wool differs in the source material, which can be:
Almost all of these types of mineral wool can be used as insulation for steam rooms, washing rooms and others. structural elements bath building. However, in comparison with polystyrene materials, the thickness of the mineral wool insulation layer increases. The most popular is basalt wool given its technical characteristics.
The advantage of this material is:
But this material also has its drawbacks, which are the fear of water and the fact that rodents are not at all afraid to make their burrows in it. Wet basalt wool loses its thermal insulation qualities, and upon contact wet material with wooden structures in the latter, the process of decay begins. Therefore, it is not recommended to use basalt insulation for a bath, and specifically in a steam room.
Glass wool, having the same technical characteristics as basalt material, differs from it in that it is not so susceptible to moisture. It tolerates the process of laying and transportation, crumpled fibers are completely restored.
It is not touched by mice and rats, it fits well, but its use entails the difficulty of installation due to the emitted small fibers that irritate the skin of a person and are dangerous if they enter the respiratory organs. In addition to the disadvantages of this material refers to:
Insulation is made from blast-furnace slag, which is not distinguished by its environmental friendliness and safety for human health. Of the advantages of slag, it should be noted:
Disadvantages:
Large coefficient of moisture absorption. When wet, it can release acid, which has a destructive effect on metal structures and fasteners, causing them to corrode.
Low resistance to sharp drops temperature regime, which is characteristic of such rooms as baths.
Difficulty in laying, given the excessive fragility of the fibers, which have the same sharp and thorny edges as glass wool.
The presence in the composition of the insulation of such hazardous substances as phenol, formaldehyde.
The material is made from recyclable materials, which is waste paper, fluffed and treated with fire retardants and antiseptics. Has a gray or light gray color, loose fibrous structure. The advantages of this rather new type of insulation include:
The material can absorb moisture, but it also easily releases it into the surrounding space when a certain level of air dryness is reached. After drying, the thermal insulation properties of ecowool remain at the same level. Before applying ecowool to the surface of the insulated structure, the material must be slightly moistened. The lignin in its composition, under the influence of water, holds the fibers together and adheres well to any surface. It can be used for dry insulation of attic floors. It is not recommended to use it inside the sauna premises, since the material will not have time to dry after each use of the sauna.
For insulation of attic floors, floors, filling cavities in brickwork with "wells", expanded clay gravel of various fractions is used. In terms of thermal conductivity, this material is inferior to many types of insulation, but its main advantage is its low price and versatility. In addition to the bulk method of insulation, expanded clay granules can be a filler for lightweight concrete.
Whichever type of insulation is chosen, during its installation, it is imperative to lay a vapor barrier film. Foil insulation combines both vapor barrier and thermal insulation. But besides this, it also works as a reflector of thermal radiation, preventing heat from escaping through various slots, a loose abutment of structures. The material is manufactured in various options:
The thinnest aluminum foil is glued on top of each material. The shiny side of the insulating material must face the interior of the room. It can be used for all structures and premises of the bath.
When insulating a bath, you must use different kinds heat insulating materials, which are most effective for rooms of various functionality and meet certain requirements - durability, low cost, the ability to retain heat inside the sauna building, and be safe for human health.
The bathhouse is a rather specific design, in which large temperature drops and high humidity are constantly present. Moreover, all these factors are necessary for the normal functioning of the room, which means that the structure must adequately transfer them and even contribute to maintaining the necessary regime.
That is why novice craftsmen often ask questions about how to insulate the bath outside and how to correctly create the desired temperature in all rooms of the building.
First of all, it should be noted that this building has several rooms, which are very different in their functions and require a certain approach in manufacturing. At the same time, the standard insulation of the bath with foam plastic is produced from the outside in the same way as any other building ().
Advice! If you leave this structure without insulation, as was done in the old days, and at the same time reduce the mode of its use, then the service life of the structure will be greatly reduced.
In order to properly insulate the bath, special attention should be paid to the base.
It should protect well not only from the cold, but also from the dampness coming from below.
Advice! All work to protect the base is best done immediately after its manufacture. This will greatly facilitate installation.
When walls are insulated in a bath, the steam room should be given special attention.
The fact is that in a given room you need to constantly maintain a given temperature in order to reduce the cost of bringing the room to a given mode.
Advice! All work is carried out not only on the walls facing the outside, but also interior partition that separates this room.
Advice! In order to save money on the work of installing the foam, the masters recommend not purchasing a special apparatus for applying it, but renting it. Many wholesale shops often provide such services.
These premises do not need additional protection from the cold. Usually, the insulation of the dressing room is the general protection of the building, which copes with the task at hand. However, the floor in these rooms should be additionally equipped with thermal insulation.
The fact is that these surfaces are often walked barefoot. With this in mind, some wizards advise you to install the simplest system heating. Usually, the price of small heating elements is not very high, and the level of comfort will increase several times..
Special attention is paid to the recreation room. This room shouldn't be too difficult, as the outside protection will handle the cold well enough. However, some craftsmen are trying to make this room as comfortable as possible, and therefore they make additional insulation with their own hands, using various types of materials and the method of their installation for this.
Advice! To save money, professionals do not internal protection from the cold in the data room. It is much easier to produce quality products.
In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic. Also, based on the text that is set out above, it can be concluded that not only has its own characteristics, but also a special choice of material for each room.
Separately, it is worth noting the fact that the insulation of the bath in the steam room is carried out separately from other rooms. It is basic and requires protection from all sides, including the ceiling and walls.
Comfortable living is ensured not only by the availability of utilities and the design of the premises. It is important to protect the house from heat loss, which is important in the cold season. Doors and windows are powerful sources of cold air entering the house. There are several ways to keep your room warm.
Change the doors to energy-efficient designs. This is not cheap and is associated with the accompanying operations for the design of slopes, installation of platbands, and so on. In many cases, it is possible to solve this problem in affordable ways without significant costs. One of the traditional insulation materials is a felt door seal, which has both disadvantages and advantages.
Today manufacturers offer a new generation of materials that are easy to install and affordable. The share of felt products is decreasing, but it is too early to abandon the use, since they have a number of special qualities:
Ready-made felt door seal
Previously, felt was used everywhere as a heater and sealant. It was considered the best material for these purposes. Why is this method of protecting housing from the cold inferior to priority? Despite the fact that the user qualities of felt are not in doubt, there are also disadvantages:
Roll felt
Attention! When buying, you should carefully read the information about the product on the packaging or in the accompanying documents. Natural felt is 100% wool. There are materials on sale with the same name, but they cannot be considered as such. In cases where the composition contains percentages of natural fiber, and even more so when it is absent there.
The production of the material is localized in regions that traditionally produce wool products. Classical technology is rooted in the distant past and has secrets. Not all developed countries know how to make felt. In Russia, production secrets have not been lost, and the products enjoy well-deserved respect. Despite the fact that the manufacturing process is traditional, the quality of the products is regulated by state regulations. The consumer can choose the desired felt of the following types:
Car Sound Insulation Felt
Any felt is used as a seal for doors. Consider the minimum required thickness. Felt has a limited dynamic compression ratio. For this reason, the difference in the gap width should not exceed 2-3 mm. Otherwise the pretense door leaf will not be airtight, the seal will be partial and the protection will not be effective.
Advice! If the width of the gap is uneven, it is possible to pre-fill areas with a large gap with pieces of felt of the desired thickness. It is easy to cut longitudinally. After preliminary alignment, a finishing strip of felt is installed. Another option involves the installation of a felt seal with the end side relative to the plane of the door. It is effective in this case to form a cushion.
When this type of seal was used everywhere, and there was no alternative, it was nailed down. Decades have passed since then, and there are more ways of fixing. It is convenient to use a stapler. A paper clip holds the material better than a nail. But the traditional method of fastening with decorative nails has not lost its relevance. A video showing how simple and in an accessible way you can seal the doorway yourself
A wide range of adhesives allows you to choose a brand for fixing both wood and metal surfaces... Felt cannot be fixed on a steel sheet with nails or a stapler, so in this case it is - the best option... It is impractical to use double-sided tape. It can be used in exceptional or emergency cases. The bond strength is low and the service life will be poor.
Universal glue "Nairit" with indication of application for felt
The glue method has nuances. The loose and fibrous structure of the felt requires a large amount of composition. A primer is recommended. The prepared strip of insulation is coated with glue and allowed to dry. Do not do it abundantly. Impregnation to a depth of 1 mm is sufficient. After complete drying, a layer of glue is applied, and gluing is carried out according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer in the prescribed mode.
Colored felt
In some cases, felt insulation is used specifically to support the folk style. IN wooden houses, baths with deliberately roughly treated surfaces, natural material looks organic, and designers are happy to use this technique. The technology of fiber dyeing has been worked out, and today felt can be purchased in a wide range of colors.
Felt door seal: protecting your home from the cold
Doors are not only the "face" of any house and reliable protection from uninvited guests, but also a barrier against the penetration of drafts and cold into the room. However, even a new door leaf often does not cope with this task at the proper level. For this purpose, door insulation is used. It is also needed to isolate the room from sounds coming from outside.
The reasons for heat loss are different: from the skewing of the door leaf and insufficient sealing, to insufficient quality of the material. If the replacement of the door is not included in the plans, then the only correct solution that will help to save 25-30% of heat energy is the door insulation, the nuances of which will be discussed.
In order to reliably insulate the entrance or balcony doors, use the following materials: mineral wool; cellular insulation; liquid insulation; polypropylene; felt insulation (including self-adhesive); polyurethane, anti-draft.
The nuances of installing a door insulation
You will have to tinker with the insulation of a metal door.
Algorithm for installing heaters on a metal door:
In the case of a wooden door, first align the jamb and reinforce the hinges.
Stages of attaching heaters to a wooden door:
Each material has design and installation criteria that help to choose the insulation correctly.
Minvata is made from silicate rocks. High noise and heat insulation characteristics of the product are determined by the fibrous structure. Minvata is environmentally friendly, non-flammable, resistant to moisture penetration, the influence of temperature fluctuations, is not afraid of the effects of chemicals, and in addition, it is characterized by a moderate cost.
The main disadvantages of the material are subsidence under its own weight, as a result of which voids are formed. The installation of additional stiffeners that can keep the insulation from slipping helps to avoid this.
Cotton wool is applied to the entire surface of the door leaf, avoiding gaps, using glue or fasteners, paying attention to insulation around the perimeter. They close it on top decorative coating(leatherette).
Today, this method of door insulation is rarely used in practice due to moral and technological obsolescence.
Material cost from 385 rubles. per package and above. Mineral wool without a binder costs from 35 rubles. for 1 kg.
This material is essentially a standard cardboard pressed in a factory way into an accordion or in the form of a honeycomb.
The honeycomb filling of the door is considered a cheap option for insulation, but the least effective in terms of insulation from noise or cold air. It is used as a filler that deprives the door of its hollowness.
Fastened as standard, on the entire surface of the door, avoiding obvious gaps.
The cost of the material is from 29 to 125 rubles per sheet. If you buy material in a roll, then the price is 2100-3800 rubles.
Liquid insulators are considered an alternative to bulky frame heaters. They are a mixture similar in consistency to paint, but with the following beneficial properties:
The disadvantages of such materials are not considered affordable for everyone and many fakes on the market.
Liquid insulation is applied with a roller or brush, like paint, after having previously sealed the cracks in the door leaf.
The price for 1 liter of liquid insulator is from 260 rubles. and higher, depending on the brand and the technological nuances of the mixture.
The main advantages of this insulation are environmental friendliness, lightweight, insulation performance, resistance to fire, moisture, chemicals and atmospheric agents. Polypropylene foam withstands loads, does not absorb water.
Available in the form of air plates, which can be easily cut to the required dimensions and easily attached to the door using special glue or liquid nails.
The material costs starting at 1100 r and above for 1 package, which differ in size or number of sheets.
It is considered a classic option for insulating a door leaf. Felt seal is traditionally used, but now there is a self-adhesive insulation for doors.
Self-adhesive felt insulation for doors or foam rubber is attached to the pre-cleaned door leaf along the perimeter. At the same time, make sure that the material does not interfere with the tight closing of the door and seals all the cracks.
Self-adhesive for doors costs starting from 30 rubles. per 1 roll, depending on the length and manufacturer of the product.
This strong and durable material is a mixture of bubbles, which has anti-noise and heat-conducting characteristics, is not afraid of moisture, fire and chemicals. Differs in good adhesion to the surface, does not require preliminary processing of the web. PU foam is available in elastic or rigid form.
Liquid polyurethane foam is pumped into the door frame with a pistol and covers the entire canvas with an even layer. After drying, all the gaps are additionally filled in and the surface is cleaned, preparing it for sheathing.
Self-assembly presents certain difficulties and requires practical experience.
Sheet polyurethane foam costs starting from 734 r for 1 piece.
This insulation is attached to the bottom of the door, thereby isolating the gap between the floor, protecting the room from drafts.
It is easily attached according to the factory instructions. Cost - from 90 rubles. for 1 piece 85 cm long. right choice Experienced specialists will help you with insulation.
Insulation for doors (self-adhesive and felt): find out how to choose
Insulation of entrance doors is relevant both for a private house and for an apartment in multi-storey building, since heat loss through the doorway in the cold season can reach up to 20%. The easiest and cheapest way to eliminate drafts is to fix door insulation in problem areas of the opening. The traditional material for creating a barrier to the penetration of cold air into the home is ordinary building felt, but, besides it, there are a lot of modern synthetic insulation, and about the whole variety of these materials - below.
Felt tape for insulating doorways
No matter how tightly the doors are fitted to the frame, over time, gaps appear between the door leaf and the frame, and the frame itself can be skewed. Therefore, the factory seal is broken, allowing cold air to freely enter the living quarters of the house. Completely changing the door is a costly and not always acceptable way out, and fixing felt insulation on the ends of the door or opening is a cheap and quick solution, which often completely eliminates the blowing of the door. But, in addition to the time factor, there are other reasons for the occurrence of a draft in the opening of the front door:
Elimination of draft on the front door
The door leaf and frame made of wood warp and wear out much more often than structures made of metal, since wood absorbs moisture well, and it is not always possible to protect it from this with high quality. Moisture impregnation creates cracks and twisting of fibers in the wood, and such deformations are potential places for draft penetration. Due to periodic moistening and shrinkage, doors can sag, loosen, dry out, crack and deform, which will certainly affect the density of contact between the canvas and the frame.
Therefore, wooden doors are not installed as often as before, and the appearance of doors made of other, more modern and reliable materials - plastic, metal, glass or a combination of the above components - contributes to this.
Metal entrance doors are the most reliable and warm, despite the fact that metal conducts heat well. The fact is that a high-quality insulation is laid inside the structure of the canvas, and often it is a felt seal or synthetic materials such as polystyrene foam, polypropylene foam or synthetic wool. In addition, the high precision manufacturing of the structure ensures minimal gaps between the door and the frame, which means that the insulating gasket will be dense and durable. The cost metal doors higher than wooden structures, but their reliability is much higher. The same applies to doors made of plastic or glass.
Internal organization insulated metal doors
Wooden door designs are made of solid wood, from panel assemblies, with glued or paneled sheets.
Of all the above structures of entrance doors, plastic ones withstand subzero temperatures worse than others and poorly retain cold air flows. Therefore, to insulate doors made of plastic, you will have to try, and the best way out is to hire a specialist. But the most reliable, albeit expensive, option is to install a second front door... However, it, like the first door, will also have to be insulated.
And, if the help of professionals is needed to install at least the first, at least the second entrance door, then in order to attach a felt seal on the door, you only need your desire. When carrying out this simple operation, you first need to check the box (door frame), canvas, fittings, lock, and even platbands for them correct fastening, absence of cracks and loosening. To prevent such an examination from giving negative results, it is recommended that the following set of measures be carried out regularly:
Freezing points and places of insulation
The functional range of materials that create a hermetic sealing of the gap between the canvas and the box, prevent the penetration of moisture and cold air currents from the street, is quite wide, but traditionally it is: thick foam felt tape, batting, mineral wool, foam plastic, synthetic winterizer, expanded polystyrene, NPE ( foamed polyethylene), rubber band seals. To insulate the gaps, it is recommended to use synthetic seals that do not deteriorate from temperature and moisture changes, and to insulate the door leaf, it is preferable to mount natural materials from felt, felt, etc. Such thermal insulation will be protected from harmful atmospheric influences by the door body.
Since insulation can be combined with decorating the canvas, leatherette or synthetic leather with a layer of insulation is best suited for this purpose. Natural Decoration Materials- an expensive pleasure, and they are usually ordered individually. For self-insulation of the door you will need:
Materials and tools for door insulation
Immediately before warming the canvas and sealing the gaps, gaps, distortions, loosening, subsidence, and other visible door defects should be eliminated. The cracks are covered with wood putty, the gaps and skew of the canvas are regulated by awnings. On the wooden door you can seal the holes for the screws for the hinges, so as not to outweigh them in a new place. An extreme measure to eliminate a loose closing of a wooden door or its distortion is the use of a plane.
The choice of a seal for any door is a serious matter, since different materials will behave differently:
Felt door sealing
The tape is attached and placed around the frame perimeter without gaps, the length of the tape may be longer than necessary, but not less, so that you do not have to make an additional connection, which will reduce the tightness of the seam. The thickness of the tape is set with a piece of plasticine - it is glued to the frame, the door is closed, and after opening it, you will see how thick the seal is needed.
Replacing the seal on the front door
Any tape seal must be fastened if the thickness of the factory seal is already insufficient to prevent drafts, and the combination of decor with insulation is the most reliable measure.
Insulation for doors, self-adhesive, felt, upholstery
Felt is available in rolls and in panels.
In one of our earlier articles, we introduced you to how to insulate a bathroom... Today we will tell you about a very old, but, unfortunately, lost its fame insulation made of natural sheep wool- felt. For insulation of doors, windows and door frames, crowns log houses this material fits perfectly. But if you want to isolate the house with them completely, then you will face many problems, solutions to which are extremely difficult to find. “There are no hopeless situations,” the notorious Baron Munchausen used to say, but despite this, there is still no developed clear method of wall insulation with felt.
What a pity that this superb, natural material with excellent performance is almost forgotten. Today felt is used to insulate doors and window openings. IN ordinary houses this is where it ends, but if we are talking about wooden structures or a bathhouse from a log house (timber), then it is also used as a mezhventsovy heater and for sealing cracks. And, probably, no one even knows that felt insulation can be different:
Felt insulation has a fairly low thermal conductivity, the coefficient is 0.03-0.07 W / m * K and depends on the density of the material. The latter varies in the range from 10 to 400 kg / m. cub.
The material is produced both in panels and in rolls. The dimensions of the panels are 2000 x 2000 mm, rolls are up to 1800 mm wide and up to 200 m long. It is made from both natural and synthetic raw materials. Synthetics is already a trend of modernity, you should not take it seriously, but natural materials deserve attention.
This is a seal for the crowns, 15% made of felt.
In addition to the fact that the felt is produced in its pure form, it can be a part of other natural insulation materials. For example, felt jute, where impurities make up up to 15% of the total mass of the material. It is produced in strips and is used for laying between the crowns of buildings made of logs or beams, as well as for sealing gaps between logs and in corners (bowls).
Felt insulation for doors was originally used to make felt boots. The very name of this shoe tells us about the method of its production. Felt boots are made from natural sheep wool by dry or wet felting. As a result, the villi are so connected to each other that a monolithic carpet is obtained. Whoever spent at least one winter in felt boots knows firsthand about their qualities. Accordingly, felt insulation for doors has all these characteristics:
It would seem that felt door seal is just the perfect material, but no, there is one drawback. Moth loves to eat it very much and if it is already started, then it is extremely difficult to remove it. In this regard, the material in production is treated with a 3% solution of sodium chloride.
The question of which heating for the house is better has been raised more than once, and there is still no definite answer. Each of the methods has both advantages and disadvantages.
Most often, felt is used for insulating door frames and windows, as well as for external door insulation. The fact that the material is environmentally friendly and the fact that it breathes allows it to be used even in baths at high temperatures and humidity. Consider the insulation of a door in a bath with felt from two angles. The first will be the insulation of the box.
This technique is applicable to both the front door and the entrance to the steam room. In both cases, felt insulation for doors is laid along the perimeter of the box at the junction with the movable part. For this you need:
No additional protection not necessary. If it is necessary to insulate the front door with felt, then you need to take the cloth and fix it on the outside. Then, using furniture nails with beautiful hats, fix the material you like (usually a leather substitute) over the insulation. The main thing is that the finish is resistant to atmospheric aggression.
Two-pipe heating scheme two-storey house can be both vertical and horizontal. In this case, there can also be several methods for routing horizontal contours for each floor. Some of them: hitchhiking, dead-end, collector.
Felt-based linoleum - insulation and soundproofing.
In addition to the above purposes, this material can be used for thermal insulation:
The methods, of course, are rarely used, but they are still discussed on the forums. Although felt for floor insulation is used very often in the form of a substrate for linoleum. Considering the hypothetical possibility of laying insulation under finishing materials, for example, as wall insulation with foam, you need to immediately cut off possible problems:
As you can see, it is quite problematic to use felt for wall insulation, and the price bites. It is sold by weight and per kilo they ask from 200 rubles, depending on the density. Such insulation will cost almost gold. Felt seal is suitable as local thermal insulation, but for insulation large areas not even the technology has been developed. How to be in such a situation when there is no one to even turn to for practical advice? You will not find practitioners on the forums on this issue in the daytime with fire - some theorists are skeptical.
Despite all positive points of this material, the complex warming of the house with felt is not possible for a number of reasons:
How to insulate a door with felt can be told from two sides:
Also, this material is used for caulking mezhventsovy cracks. In addition, felt insulation for walls wooden houses used as a spacer between logs (timber) during the installation of the structure. It can be used both in pure form and as part of other materials (jute). It is better to leave attempts to completely insulate the walls of any buildings from any materials. Yes, there is a sturdy yurt felt that has high insulating qualities, but it still won't work. It is not designed to be enclosed by the body of the walls, because you are not going to insulate without finishing. Felt floor insulation is widely used, but only as a substrate for linoleum. It does not apply to laminate flooring.
Felt seal for insulating doors, walls, bath floor
Bath is a room that serves not only for hygiene, but also for strengthening human health, cleansing the body of toxins, strengthening immunity. The bath involves the creation of an atmosphere in its inner space with elevated temperature and humidity, like a thermos. Naturally, any loss of heat and steam is unacceptable here, otherwise a positive effect from bath procedures cannot be achieved. Therefore, for the owners and builders of baths, the first task is to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, which contributes to the fullest possible use of the advantages of this wonderful type of rest and recovery.
When building a bath, first of all, there is a question about the environmental friendliness of all materials used - from load-bearing structures to finishing and interior fittings. Many try to initially use exclusively natural materials in the construction. So, log baths are, of course, the most popular today, albeit the most expensive. But often the owners prefer to build baths from cinder blocks, trying to use natural materials to a greater extent when processing the inner surface of the walls.
Most often, owners use natural materials such as building moss, felt, linen tow or hemp hemp for thermal insulation of the bath. All these products are perfect for filling gaps in log baths, as well as in baths made of other materials. These are environmentally friendly insulation materials used for both internal and external thermal insulation.
Building moss based on plant components, such as cuckoo flax or sphagnum, is considered particularly valuable because of its bactericidal properties. During the use of the bath, the moss gives a pleasant aroma, contributing to the most complete relaxation during the procedure. However, as a heater, moss has several disadvantages:
Some owners may recommend impregnating vegetable insulation chemical means, however, this leads to the loss of all the valuable qualities of the natural material. Chemical impregnations themselves, when used in a hot and humid atmosphere, can harm human health with their vapors. Today, versatile materials that promote the best insulation bath walls from the inside, jute and linen fibers are considered.
The inside of the bath can be insulated with jute felt, linen or linen fiber material. The advantages of all of these insulation products are:
Most often, mixtures of jute and linen fibers are used to insulate the walls of a bath structure, which can be purchased in the form of rolls of fibrous material of various thicknesses and widths.
In addition to flax and jute, ordinary heat insulators are very often used when insulating a bath, such as expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, mineral wool and dry bulk insulation - expanded clay, brick chips mixed with sawdust, etc. In addition, fiberboard and chipboard are actively used for thermal insulation of the bathhouse walls.
Particular attention should be paid to the vapor barrier of the bath walls. Materials for the vapor barrier layer complement the general heat-saving function of the walls, but at the same time protect them from rotting, mold formation, since the high humidity inside the room can quickly destroy not only the insulation itself, but also the entire building.
As steam insulators for a bath, means are needed that can withstand temperature extremes. Such materials include plastic wrap, glassine, aluminum foil and others. The vapor barrier layer should, first of all, be environmentally friendly, since in a warm and humid environment it will inevitably evaporate, and then harmful substances can penetrate from its surface into the air of a bath or steam room if the owner made the wrong choice.
The best material for moisture insulation is aluminum foil. It can withstand high temperatures up to 150 degrees, is absolutely harmless, resistant to decay, mold and very durable. Often, heat-insulating materials are used to insulate the walls of a bath, which already have a layer of aluminum foil on one of the surfaces intended for the interior space. For example, polystyrene foam or prefabricated fibreboard often has a foil surface on one side.
In addition, seams and joints between insulation should also be sealed using foil tape, which often has a double-sided adhesive surface. Thus, the walls of the bath are covered from the inside with a continuous layer of heat and moisture insulation, which helps to create an appropriate atmosphere for wellness procedures to the maximum extent.
In addition to the foil vapor barrier, kraft paper is also successfully used. It is good to use it for a steam room, as it creates an excellent sealing of the room and at the same time insulates it in addition to other thermal insulating means.
Usually, a special frame made of wood material, the so-called lathing, is placed on top of the insulation inside the bath. It is necessary for further finishing the walls of the bath, because it is to the crate that the finishing materials are fixed - panels, plates, interior fittings, shelves and others.
When insulating the walls of a bath building, many owners create a system of ventilation gaps - special spaces located between the insulating material and outside wall... These are very narrow slots required to drain excess steam and air from the interior. Moreover, such ventilation does not in any way affect the microclimate of the bath from the inside, since excess moisture goes into the ventilation gaps very slowly, gradually, through microscopic pores in the insulating layer of the walls.
Even at a minimum speed and invisibility for the internal atmosphere of the bath, ventilation to a significant extent protects the entire building from premature destruction due to increased dampness, rotting and the formation of mold. Narrow air gaps can be left in the thickness of walls, foundations and ceilings, and can be equipped with special branch pipes.
Thus, using all these nuances - the correct choice of insulation materials, the use of suitable vapor barriers, the creation of a multilayer insulation structure, the abandonment of ventilation spaces - you can create an excellent source for rest, healing and relaxation - a Russian bath.
Most types of baths need to be insulated from the inside. This will result in fuel savings and a more efficient and faster heating of the steam room.
Insulation from the inside is an inevitable event for most types of baths. It allows you to spend less fuel, heat the steam room faster and better. Competently made insulation protects the walls of the bath from fungus, rotting, and prolongs its service life. In this article, we will select inexpensive and safe types of thermal insulation, depending on the material of the walls of the bath, and consider how to install them correctly.
TO different rooms baths have different requirements, we will focus on the steam room and the washing room, the features of which are high temperature and high humidity. Also, the insulation is selected depending on the material of the walls of the bath.
But, regardless of the material of the walls and the purpose of the room, the insulation should be:
Insulation | In what room is used | Note |
Natural materials: rolled jute, felt, insulation made of reeds and sawdust, moss, tow, etc. | Dressing room, rest room. | Natural materials ignite at high temperatures and are therefore not suitable for steam rooms and washrooms. But materials from jute and flax are the best insulating materials for a chopped bath. There are excellent modern roll insulation made from natural materials, but they are very expensive, so they are practically not used for bath insulation. |
Mineral heaters. | They can insulate any room in the bath. Most often, they use easy-to-install plate heaters (mats). | They do not rot, serve up to 30 years, are fire-resistant, inexpensive. It is with these materials that most Russian baths are insulated. |
Polymer materials | Craftsmen are not recommended for warming the steam room. | Polyfoam is a wonderful heat insulator, but it is flammable, and at high temperatures it releases substances harmful to humans. You cannot use styrofoam in the steam room.... Extruded polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is considered a safe material (it is used to insulate the bathhouse of Russian polar explorers in Antarctica). But the masters do not recommend using this material in the steam room either. |
Heaters based on aluminum foil. | It is used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for a specific room. | The principle of operation of such heaters is the effect of a thermos, the reflection of heat from the walls and ceiling due to the foil. Some types of foil insulation are produced specifically for steam rooms and other rooms with high temperature, others, when the temperature rises, begin to emit harmful substances. Foil in the bath is used as a vapor barrier. |
The bath is insulated from the inside in the following order: ceiling - walls - floor. Most of the heat in the bath goes through the ceiling, therefore
The thickness of the insulation of the ceiling is twice the thickness of the insulation of the walls and is at least 10 cm.
Regardless of the material of the walls of the bath, the ceiling is insulated in the same way.
Foil is used in the insulation of the ceiling without fail.
For insulation frame bath rolled mineral insulation is most often used.
The thickness of the insulation depends on the type of operation of the bath: if it is supposed to heat it only in the summer, a layer of 5 cm is enough; if you plan to heat the bath all year round, the insulation layer should be 10-15 cm (depending on the climatic zone).
To insulate the walls of a frame bath from the inside:
The foil acts as a vapor barrier, so it is important that even the slightest holes and damage are absent in it, and all joints are well glued with high-quality tape. The tape is always sold with foil, and its quality must be checked in the store (glue the tape to the foil and try to tear it off).
It would be a tragic mistake to insulate a chopped and well-heated bath from the inside. This is not just meaningless and destructive for the walls, it contradicts the very idea of a chopped bath.
Log cabins are made for two reasons:
It so happens that a person already gets ready-made bath from a log house, and for various reasons it can be cold. Such a bath can be insulated, but only outside.
The cake looks like this:
And from the inside, you can put foil and sheathe it with clapboard, not forgetting about the ventilation gap.
In a chopped bath, only the floor and ceiling are insulated!
If the ceiling of a chopped bath is made of thick boards, it is not necessary to use insulation, but then the following is poured onto the ceiling in a cold attic:
Brick is not the most suitable material for the construction of a bath, but if there is a brick factory somewhere nearby, then brick baths begin to grow like mushrooms. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the brick, such a bath needs to be insulated without fail. Warming is carried out only from the inside, and to make the bath look cool from the outside, decorative jointing is done.
Usually a cake of an insulated wall brick bath looks like that:
Waterproofing between brickwork and insulation is optional: if the walls are built correctly and are waterproofed from the foundation, they will not dampen. If there is no confidence in the walls, then waterproofing is better done.
Insulation on the brick walls of the bath is attached to the frame.
For the construction of a bath, durable and moisture-resistant blocks of expanded clay concrete are preferred. Insulation of such a bath is thought over at the stage of its construction. The most important thing here is to remove the ice block of concrete from the heating circuit. There is a technology promoted by our user ZYBY, which allows you to solve this problem by constructing a frame-wall made of planks indented from the walls of the bath. It is suitable for insulating all stone-walled baths.
To ventilate and dry the space between the frame and the walls, several air vents are made in the walls of the bath, above and below the outside. The vents are closed while people are steaming in the bath, the rest of the time they are open to dry.
Insulation cake for the steam room and washing room using this technology:
With this approach, you will not have to heat the ice walls. And the insulation will dry out between vapors.
But many owners of a bathhouse made of blocks traditionally insulate it from the inside:
Such a bath needs insulation outside as well.
The precious bath heat is also escaping through the floor, so it also needs to be insulated. For warming the floor in the bath, it is recommended to use expanded clay, as the lightest and most environmentally friendly material.
Expanded clay is poured between the layers of the concrete floor as follows:
Nice bath - warm bath... And in order for it to warm up well to the desired temperature, it is necessary to choose the right thermal insulation and insulate all structural elements.published
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