House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» Do-it-yourself stove construction with drawings in stages. Do-it-yourself rude stove: from a simple country house to a two-story for a house with a heated attic

Do-it-yourself stove construction with drawings in stages. Do-it-yourself rude stove: from a simple country house to a two-story for a house with a heated attic

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For a long time, stoves for heating a house have been traditional heating structures and in many respects they cannot be compared not only with boilers, but also with various other heaters. They provide "live" warmth, in addition, they are distinguished by their practicality and unpretentiousness in use. solid fuel... In addition, a self-built stove will last for many years.

Stoves for heating a private house are considered an ideal choice for suburban real estate. A well-designed heating structure is capable of providing residents with a comfortable stay in each of the premises of the building. Read also: "".

DIY stove: how to do it right

At a time when stoves were the main heating method in houses, they were built and repaired by masters - stove makers. Now, with certain skills, home craftsmen have the opportunity to fold the stove with their own hands. In the absence of experience in conducting construction works, it is advisable to entrust the arrangement of such a heating structure to professionals. It should not be forgotten that the stove belongs to the objects of increased danger.

Before proceeding with the independent construction of brick heating units, it is necessary to understand their main types and operating features:

  • heating stoves - they are intended exclusively for heating the house. Their masonrycarried out quickly, since their device is simple (in more detail: "");
  • heating and cooking ovens - today they are considered the most popular and demanded. In addition to heating the premises, you can also cook food on them, saving good money on gas and other modern heat carriers (read: "");
  • for cooking, a special stove is built into the heating structure, and if desired, even an oven;
  • fireplace stoves - thanks to the installation of such units, you can save space in the house, thereby creating more comfortable living conditions and ensuring effective heating of rooms (read: ""). It takes a little time to ignite them. Fireplace stoves have a presentable appearance, able to decorate any room, as in a small country house and in a luxurious country villa (read also: "").
Do-it-yourself stoves for home are distinguished by their shape. For country houses most often rectangular, square or round designs are chosen, and such a variety of models allows you to choose the best option, based on the purpose and interior of a particular room.

In addition, regardless of the type, type and size of the fuel used, the stove must meet certain fire safety requirements. The base for a brick heating structure must certainly be concrete. Read also: "".

Location of heating stoves

When independently arranging stove heating, it is necessary to provide the most optimal location for installation of a heating unit. If, for example, you place a structure in the middle of a room, then it will have the maximum possible heat transfer, since it will heat the space from all sides, while evenly giving off heat to the air.
In the case when the stove is placed near the wall, convection currents of cool air emanating from doors and windows will actively move around the house. As a result, with such an arrangement of the heating structure, residents will constantly feel the cold "stretching" along their legs.

Before laying the furnace device, it is required, according to the installation rules, to provide for the location of the combustion chamber door (read: ""). This is necessary so that you do not have to carry armfuls of firewood across the room, carrying dirt and soot. You can avoid such problems by installing the stove in the kitchen or in a little-visited room.

Types of bases for heating structures

In the drawings of stoves for heating, the arrangement of a concrete floor or the presence of its own foundation is provided. In the latter case, the base is made in such a way that it is designed for the installation of the body of the structure and the walls of the chimney pipe, as shown.

Main components:

  1. Toplivnik... When a do-it-yourself stove is created in a house, this element is one of the main parts of the heating unit. It must hold the maximum volume of wood or other fuel to ensure the highest performance of the structure. The size of the firebox can be different, since this parameter depends on the type of solid fuel (so for firewood, the height of the chamber ranges from 40 to 100 centimeters), volume, performance. The firebox is laid out exclusively from refractory bricks, and the thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick.
  2. Ash pan... This chamber is equipped with a door and is located directly under the grate. It is designed to collect ash and supply air to fuel. The height of the ash pan is three bricks.
  3. Chimney... One of the main elements that are found in every modern brick oven. Outwardly, it is similar to a coil, along which flue gases move, heating the air in the room. When a stove is created for heating a house, such as in the photo, when designing a chimney for a modern heating structure, experts do not recommend providing a large number of turns and bends, since they create additional resistance to the movement of flue gases, which results in a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

Preparation of the solution

The stove can serve reliably for a long time if the mortar is properly prepared for the masonry. It is made from sand, clay and water. It must be tough, strong and durable at the same time. Preparing a clay-sand solution is simple: it requires clay, which is poured with water and soaked for at least a day. Then the mixture is passed through a sieve and stirred until the consistency of "clay milk" and only then the required amount of sand is added (read also: "").

The stove with your own hands will be durable and reliable design, will last more than a dozen years if the solution is made correctly. In the event that the building materials turn out to be of poor quality, and the brickwork was performed without observing the technology, the heat unit will quickly fail and may even collapse.

Features of the oven masonry process

Before making a stove with your own hands, you should make a foundation for it in advance. Usually bricklaying begins one month after the foundation is created. It is necessary to withstand a certain time so that the stove turns out to be efficient and of high quality, and the heating structure lasts a long time, without overhaul and rework while maintaining functionality and high performance.

Work on laying a brick oven is carried out in several stages:
  1. First of all, lay out the ash chamber and the bottom of the first bell with a roll-up. Usually, a clay-sand mixture with high viscosity and strength is used for masonry.
  2. The doors are mounted in brickwork, and they are fastened using galvanized wire.
  3. A grate is installed above the ash pan. Then they proceed to the installation of the firebox, which is lined with fireclay bricks from the inside, placing it on the edge. In the manufacture of the solution, sand and chamotte clay are used. The furnace door is secured with wire and a steel plate with a thickness of 2.5 millimeters. Read also: "".
  4. On the 12th row of brickwork, close the combustion chamber and then, using a level, mount a cast-iron stove with burners. In the left part of the structure, the first hood and the channel intended for the summer run are laid.
  5. After completing the installation of the plate, lay out the walls of the cooking chamber. On the left side, the erection of the lower cap is continued.
  6. In the cooking chamber in the inner row, a summer valve is installed, which is necessary for kindling the furnaces.
  7. In the 20th row, the first of the hoods and the cooking chamber are covered. In solid brickwork, it is necessary to leave openings for an air vent for the brewing compartment, a summer run and a lifting channel. For this, the bricks are supported on steel corners in order to strengthen the heating structure and thereby increase its reliability.
  8. At the cooking chamber, the portal should be closed with hinged fireplace doors. Good decision the doors will be supplied with inserts made of heat-resistant glass. If they are available, it becomes possible to exercise control over the combustion process and at the same time observe how the tongues of flame look. Read also: "".
  9. After overlapping the cooking chamber and the lower bell, the upper bell is laid out with the help of two brick rows. Cleaning doors are installed in convenient places to help remove soot.
  10. The walls of the hood are erected almost to the top of the wall opening. At the top, the oven is covered with two brick rows. For additional thermal insulation, the hole between the top of the unit and the overhanging lintel must be filled with mineral wool.
  11. If a stove is made with your own hands, a decorative belt is placed along its upper perimeter and the installation of a pipe that removes flue gases begins. A brick chimney is considered the ideal solution, since over time, metal and asbestos pipes often burn out. Read also: "".
An originally made stove with your own hands is shown in the video:


The construction of complex options for stove structures is a painstaking process that requires a lot of patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if funds are available, it is recommended to seek the help of professionals. And those who want to build a furnace with their own hands should study the advice of specialists on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.

Performing accurate calculations and strict adherence to the masonry scheme will allow you to obtain a reliable heating unit and, with its further use, will provide protection against ignition and carbon monoxide poisoning. Therefore, any stove must comply with the basic requirements - do not smoke, supply heat and guarantee fire safety... It is better for beginners to choose simple model devices to independently carry out high-quality laying of the stove.

Construction tools and equipment

For installation works are used:

  • acute-angled and rectangular sledgehammers;
  • plumb line;
  • staples (mooring);
  • combined trowel;
  • hammer;
  • rammers;
  • putty knife;
  • level, square and tape measure;
  • meter (folding);
  • seam joints, markings for openings, templates for channels;
  • brick and clay (red);
  • cement;
  • sand;
  • grate;
  • doors, plate (cast iron) and valves;
  • aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).

Procedure

1. First stage.

To make sure of the accuracy of the calculations, first, the laying is performed according to the finished unit scheme, but without using the mixture. The stove is mounted on a foundation that meets all technical safety rules. To do this, a pit is dug (depth 1 m), where sand is poured (11 cm layer), and concrete is loaded from above. Then, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, place a quadrangle of bricks, which will serve as the basis for the furnace. Using a level, check the horizontality of the masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, place them on the mixture and press down (slightly), and remove the excess with a spatula and continue the further construction process according to the same principle.

Roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, attach the blower door for the oven, wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard with special brackets. The third level should consist of fireclay bricks, here a grate is placed above the blower. Masonry building material on the 4th tier it occurs on the edge. A chimney is built inside the furnace. On the rear surface of the device, the masonry is made without mixture so that its edges move slightly out of the main row, which will facilitate the clearing of debris from the smoke passage.

The firebox door is wrapped with an asbestos cord and fixed on the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of the masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is located flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are cut off, the grate is fixed flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. The brick (at the 7th level) is laid out flat, and on the back wall of the furnace, a couple of pieces are attached to the edge. The fire door is covered with the eighth tier of masonry.

2. Second stage.

Further, work on the furnace continues according to the finished scheme until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast iron plate is mounted on the mortar (with a slight displacement back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners from above. The baking sheets are supported by steel strips inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and reinforced from the fourteenth row, after 2 subsequent ones, to the twentieth. This tier accommodates: a corner, a frame and an exhaust duct made of sheet metal. Before installing the chimney, the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.

3. Third stage.

After making the heating unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and the Painting works... The oven surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewashing. A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, a liquid layer of the composition is applied to the outer side of the masonry, and after it dries, it is denser. The oven is whitened with a lime solution and salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for covering masonry, as when heated, they emit vapors that are harmful to health.

1. When building a furnace with your own hands, strong and properly fired bricks should be used, with flat surface and without various damages, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, using a hammer, it is necessary to break one brick, if it breaks up into large pieces, then it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is made, a refractory type is used that can withstand strong heat.

2. The reliability of the kiln structure depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.

3. The thickness of the seams is from 3 to 5 mm.

4. Pre-prepared grooves in the bricks, intended for the installation of the grate, flaps and doors, provide the latter with longer work. The depth of the grooves must match the thickness of the casting.

5. Bricks on tiers of masonry are placed as tightly as possible to each other. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked against ready-made scheme device, which allows you to control its exact observance.

6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing a pre-furnace sheet made of iron or a plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is advised to attach protective devices to the frames (using bolts).

7. It is permissible to start operation 14 days after completion of installation work. It is recommended to start hardening the unit by burning thin chips to prevent cracking. After the end of the combustion process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed with valves.

Cost of materials and wages

Self-construction of a stove is much cheaper compared to the services of a qualified worker. The minimum price for the work of a foreman starts from 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually when concluding a contract. Payment for work and cost of masonry for different kinds furnaces are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of a building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color solution are the main indicators in determining the final payment. The types of cladding also play an important role. Decorating with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).

Average cost of building supplies:

The cost of a brick varies from 20 to 150 rubles per piece. The difference in prices is also present when buying castings and other materials for masonry. If the door for the firebox Russian production costs 400 rubles, then imported - 4,000. One bag of ready-made mixture for the construction of a furnace (consumption for 35 bricks) - 400. The estimated price of the masonry is determined only after a thorough study of the future design, taking all measurements.

During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The calculation of costs also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of materials for masonry, which is assigned by carriers.

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and home warmth that can create simple stove made of bricks, even made with our own hands. Often it is installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, trying to get a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will tell you about the most popular models of brick ovens and share the secrets of the oven craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick stove is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish interior element.

Probably, there is no such person who would not like a living hearth with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But the good old brick oven will be able to please not only with this, but also with the ability to create the most favorable atmosphere for health. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, when heated, a brick releases water vapor into the air, and when it cools, it absorbs them back. The stove seems to "breathe", due to which the optimum humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes already at a temperature of 18–19 ° С, while when using other types of heating, the level of comfort starts from 20–21 ° С. In addition, being made of clay, the brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that during the operation of the heating device you do not need to worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of the arrangement of the combustion and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary oven of this type has:

  • the foundation, which serves as the base of the heater and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
  • a firebox that simultaneously acts as a firebox and a combustion chamber;
  • grate, allowing to realize the bottom air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion;
  • an ash chamber that facilitates cleaning the oven;
  • chimney, which creates the necessary draft and releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Channel type brick kiln design

In addition to their main purpose, wood-burning heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional resting place. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, barbecue or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to the visual and image component.

The advantages of brick ovens include:

  • rapid heating of the surface;
  • the possibility of using several types of fuel;
  • low operating costs;
  • the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heater is excluded;
  • especially soft, comfortable warmth;
  • indoor air is not dehydrated;
  • ample opportunities in terms of interior decoration.

The units under consideration also have disadvantages. The most significant of these is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which arises from improper use. Another one is large size and weight. That's probably all. As you can see, equipment of this type has solid advantages and almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, however, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Optimal design criteria

All existing models of brick ovens can be divided into several types:

  • heating devices;
  • cooking units;
  • combined ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that you can fold yourself. In order not to consider the whole variety of stationary units, we will focus on the most popular options:

  1. Dutch ovens. Thanks to the duct design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in the mode of slow combustion or smoldering, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of Dutch women rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many admirers, partly due to the low cost and ease of construction.

    The classic "Dutch" is an extremely compact structure

  2. Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel layout, which allows increasing the efficiency up to 50%. Just like the Dutch women, the Swedes take up little space, but require a more careful approach in the choice of materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of this type of heat generators.

    The Swedish stove will delight its owner with high efficiency and functionality

  3. have a unique layout, due to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the features of their operation. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the stove. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs, making the already not the cheapest structure more expensive.

    The Russian stove is capable of completely transforming the interior, but it will require a lot of space for installation.

  4. Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that contributes to the most complete fuel combustion and maximum heat transfer. A feature of "blacksmiths" is extremely clean "exhaust" and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on caring for the heating device. As for the disadvantages, they include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the last drawback is compensated for by the fact that much less bricks are required for the construction of the "hood" than for any other furnace.

    Unlike the canonical bell-type ovens, modified units can have a hob and an oven.

You can find step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with orders in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heating device that can meet all the requirements for it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first is not difficult, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the utmost attention. We will tell you more about how to choose a stove in accordance with the type of structure.

  1. A house designed for permanent residence... If stove heating will be used as the main heating, then better option than "Swedish" or "cap" can not be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily supplemented with other elements - a hob, a water circuit, an oven, drying niches or a stove bench. If functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a good option is the "Dutch", which heats several adjacent rooms.
  2. Country house "weekend" or cottage. Since these buildings imply irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heater equipped with a hob. Ideal option are fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since they can be used to heat the room in the shortest possible time. Such an advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the air temperature in the room drops to subzero temperatures.
  3. Oven in country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heater serves to create a special atmosphere. If the area of ​​the room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or unit with a firebox, fireplace and stove bench.
  4. Sauna heater. For this case, the simplest stove-heater is suitable, into which a container is built to receive hot water... If the bathhouse is attached to the house, then instead of a tank, you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
  5. Furnaces for open areas... Most often, such heating devices are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For this purpose, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

The barbecue oven will decorate the site and fill the resting place with functionality

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heating device to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of basic parameters

Before choosing a working project for a heater, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is sizing based on the heat dissipation of the furnace. In order not to go into complicated calculations, a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I.V.Kuznetsov is used for well-insulated houses. This method uses the average heat output taken from one square meter of the unit surface (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take a value of 0.5 kW / sq. m, and if necessary, intensive heating, which occurs with a strong cold snap - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m.

When determining the heat output of the furnace, only those surfaces that are involved in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in the "Dutch" do not exclude from the calculations the sections of the walls located at the floor, below the horizontal sections of the gas duct.

In principle, these values ​​are already enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick ovens

Sauna stove
Fireplace stove Classic "Dutch" Bell-type stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the furnace are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel fill. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2–3 times larger than the obtained value, which will allow the stove to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the combustion chamber, it must be borne in mind that the maximum filling should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the furnace and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the furnace. In your calculations, you can use special tables developed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various sizes.

Calculation table for the main elements of a brick oven

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove is fired with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be borne in mind that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require a lot of traction, therefore better shape the smoke duct will be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​its gas duct, while all values ​​are adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since accurate design requires a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. Nevertheless, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical passage, rectangular cross-section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use the average values ​​for furnaces up to 14 kW:

  • Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
  • 5 - 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
  • From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
  • From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
  • 5 - 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

The recommended sizes are the minimum. And yet there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the chimney, since cold air will fall into the stove through a too wide chimney. Backflow, or "whistle" in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only with a decrease in productivity, but also with more serious problems.

To calculate the quantity required material it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculating the number of bricks

Do not worry if the chimney, calculated offhand, occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be extended with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or you can put several more rows of bricks. Often, such events are carried out when the aerodynamics of the terrain have changed. For example, after growing trees or erecting higher buildings in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

  • selection of tools and necessary materials;
  • determination of the optimal place for mounting the heater;
  • arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
  • production of oven bricks (if necessary) and preparation of masonry mortar.

Required materials and tools

Stove-maker's tools

For laying a brick oven you will need:

  1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pickaxe).
  2. Swab for mopping laid rows.
  3. Corner, plumb line and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
  4. Pliers.
  5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
  6. Trowel (trowel).
  7. Rule and rammer for arranging the foundation.
  8. Lead scribe.
  9. A spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
  10. Joining.
  11. Buckets and other containers for bulk materials and liquids.
  12. Sieve.
  13. Grinder (angle grinder) with a stone wheel.

Despite the fact that brick ovens differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains practically unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

  1. Brick - red, silicate, refractory and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
  2. Building mixture for masonry ovens. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
  3. Furnace casting set - blower, furnace and cleaning doors, latches, stove, oven, etc.
  4. Grate.
  5. Wire for fastening cast iron.
  6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
  7. Steel strips and corners for the arrangement of floors and niches.
  8. Heat-resistant boards for protective thermal insulation.

Fireclay brick ШБ №22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight, which requires a capital foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for the construction of the foundation:

  1. Sand.
  2. Crushed stone.
  3. Reinforcing mesh.
  4. Planks and nails for formwork construction.
  5. Cement.
  6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for these works.

Features of choosing a place for installing a heater

Most often, a brick oven is installed against one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available area in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used to heat several rooms, then it is placed in the center of the house, orienting the firebox and hob to the kitchen, and by other edges to the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of right choice places.

The correct choice of place is able to solve the problem of heating all rooms of a country house

When installing the heater, you should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum permissible distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal clearances and distances, which are determined by the current SNiP:

  • from brick chimney there must be at least 130 mm of free space before the wooden elements of the floor or roof. If uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
  • leave a gap of at least 100 mm between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the oven;
  • the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation is used. With a protective screen, the minimum gap is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
  • a gap of at least 0.35 m must be left from the ceiling to the stove ceiling. When installing compact units with a low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Foundation construction

It is best if the base of the brick oven is formed simultaneously with the common building foundation. In this case, both structures are performed separately, otherwise the subsidence of the walls of the building will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, or even damage to the heater. If the stove is erected in a finished house, then the first thing that is paid attention to is the distance of the chimney from the elements of the roof covering, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they begin to mark and build the foundation.

Considering the weight of the oven, the foundation must be solid.

If the house has wooden floors, then they are cut out at the place of installation of the stove, stepping back from the outer contour of 10-15 cm. After that, a pit is dug, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle strip, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After that, its bottom is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured, which is also carefully tamped. After that, wooden pegs are hammered in the corners of the structure, to which the sheathing boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement milk through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with plastic wrap. At a distance of 5–10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which both metal rods hammered into the bottom of the pit and fragments of bricks are used.

The foundation for a brick kiln is made of reinforced concrete

Mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1: 3: 4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the surface of the foundation is leveled using a rule. Note that the upper level of the base of the furnace should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours, necessary for the preliminary setting of the mortar, the structure is covered with a film and left for several weeks until it dries completely.

Before laying the brick, the foundation is necessarily waterproofed with roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Preparation of the solution

Now, when you can find ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves in the retail network, there are practically no problems with the preparation of a working solution. All that is required for this is to mix the components with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. Nevertheless, you can make a masonry mortar yourself - this will allow you to save additional money. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

It is possible to prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the last component. To choose optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After that, balls 5–6 cm in diameter are rolled from the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition the one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third is considered.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay.

Another way to define correct balance components is that a spatula is lowered into the prepared mixture. Adhesion of a solution of less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is required to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates the fat content of the mixture, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

Before use, clay must be soaked in water for a day. If you want to increase its fat content, then use the method of stirring, which consists in settling clay solution and removal of its middle part.

How to fold a brick oven correctly. Workflow instructions

Determining the type of heating device, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything for the start of construction is only half the battle. In order to properly fold the stove, it is necessary to find layouts of bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared some of the most popular options that you can use as work projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can search ready-made solutions online or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Furnace ordering diagrams in the photo

Order of the Swedish oven Order of the "Dutch" Order of the Russian oven
Heating and cooking oven orders
Sauna stove orders
Kuznetsov bell furnace orders

Today we propose to fold a compact, but very efficient and functional brick oven. Despite the apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove-makers and give the necessary recommendations for the construction process.

Ordering ovens with hob and drying niches

In the presented ordering diagram, you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to the classic Swedish stove. We recommend laying the structure dry first, without using mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare necessary elements structures. Further work is done in this order:

  1. To the floor level, bricks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar. At this stage, you should be especially careful about geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry in terms of level and plumb line. Careful performance of the work determines how even and stable the oven will be.
  2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form a blower chamber.

    Installing the blower door

  3. Before starting the laying of the second row, install the blower door. To do this, a steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is placed in the masonry seams. To prevent the door from moving and tipping over, it is temporarily propped up with bricks.
  4. In the fourth row, two channels are brought out for cleaning the furnace from soot. A separate door is installed on each of them.

    The grate is not fixed in any other way, except through very precise placement

  5. In the fifth row, a grate is installed. The indentations made in the bricks of the lower row will help to correctly lay the cast iron casting. Here and further, the combustion chamber is laid out exclusively with refractory bricks.

    In the furnace, the grate is laid on refractory bricks

  6. Before laying the sixth row, a furnace door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a pile of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is propped up from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden lath.

    Installation of the furnace door

  7. Starting from the seventh row, they begin to equip the gas ducts of the furnace. The vertical walls of the furnace are laid with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.

    To ensure the durability of the structure, the external masonry is separated from the combustion chamber with a layer of basalt cardboard.

    Laying of vertical channels

  8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected in the bricks that will overlap the furnace door. Thanks to this, the design will look smooth and aesthetically pleasing. Here, the cast-iron part is finally fixed, laying the wire into the seam of the ninth row.

    For an accurate fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

  9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

    The firebox is separated from external walls basalt cardboard or other refractory material

  10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron plate.
  11. Before overlapping the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as a support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
  12. The 18th and 19th row is laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are being built up.
  13. In the 20th row, they equip a horizontal channel and a door for cleaning from soot and carbon deposits, and also begin to form a drying chamber.
  14. The door is covered with masonry of the 22nd row.
  15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal flue is overlapped. Only the holes of the vertical channels are left open.
  16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
  17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the furnace niche is closed.
  18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical gas ducts. To do this, first mount their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    Installation of stove valves

  19. From the 31st to the 35th row, lay out the transition section of the chimney.
  20. From the 36th to the 38th row, a fluff is built.

In the place where chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from overlapping with non-combustible materials. To do this, use as mineral insulation, and expanded clay. He is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

Such a beauty can be folded with your own hands.

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Previously, we considered how the oven doors are mounted and secured. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Installation features oven

If the design of the oven provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes over as much as possible large area surface. Most often, these conditions correspond to the section of transition from the furnace to the heat exchanger. Preliminarily, metal corners are laid on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the places of contact of the cabinet with the outer wall of the furnace are sealed with basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

A water heating boiler or liquid heat exchanger is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place can be located at the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue or under the hood of non-rotating units. If you plan to use the hob and the water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into the side containers made of furnace steel. An expansion gap of 5–15 mm is left between the water heating boiler and the walls of the furnace. Of course, it is necessary to provide for how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For channel and chamber furnaces, this can be done through the opening of the firebox, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operation and cleaning of the oven

It is impossible to immediately test the furnace at maximum modes, you must wait for the drying of its walls. That is why it is recommended to build a heating device in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one to two weeks. If it becomes necessary to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the expiration of the specified period, the stove is heated for 5-7 days 2-3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is evidenced by the absence of condensation on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after that, the stove is not heated "to the fullest." Operation at maximum power is only checked after a few days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with wood, then every time it is not necessary to clean it from ash. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is freed from ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for the cleaning of internal channels and chimney from soot, then this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For this purpose, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After that, the soot is scooped out of the gas ducts with a metal scoop and a poker.

The correct choice of fuel will help to reduce soot formation. The best firewood is hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave carbon deposits. By the way, experienced stove-makers recommend that every tenth firebox be carried out with aspen logs, claiming that this helps to remove soot from the channels and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning out using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such "useful" tips), naphthalene, etc. A good effect from this can hardly be achieved, but nearby buildings and your own health can be cause significant damage.

It is often difficult to light up the stove after prolonged cooling down, for example, in a cottage or in the country. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the channels of the furnace, forming hard-to-remove gas plugs. A tried and tested method can help you resume cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, put it closer to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the heater to work.

You will also find useful material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick ovens:.

Video: Compact brick oven of the original design

A brick oven will be able to create a particularly warm atmosphere in the room, will become a highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit by forces not only experienced craftsmen but also green beginners. Of course, you have to be scrupulous and attentive as much as possible. And then the heating device will pay off not only with cozy warmth and comfort, but also with safe operation for many years of operation.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know a lot of nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying in technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

What is a brick oven in a country house? This is an opportunity to heat the house all winter long without using either gas or electricity. Moreover, the feeling of comfort that comes from the stove is hard to confuse with something. There is nothing better than leaning against its hot wall at the end of the day, enjoying the warmth.

Modern construction technologies allow you to fold the stove so that one good kindling will be enough for you until the morning. In addition, a properly designed structure retains internal heat for 10-12 hours.

If you keep the fire in the stove a little bit, then you can heat it 24 hours a day with minimal expenditure of firewood. In addition, it is not necessary to put firewood in the firebox. You can use special charcoal. But for this, the stove must be folded in a special way. Using refractory stone that can withstand high temperatures.

It is also worth noting that the ovens can have many modifications. For example, the structure can be folded in such a way that a fireplace will also be attached to the stove. It will not take up much space, but it will give even more warmth and comfort to the house. Moreover, one chimney is sufficient for extracting smoke from two furnaces.

Furnace types

The history of the evolution of stove structures goes back many centuries. Unsurprisingly, folding a heat-efficient and reliable stove is an art form. But with proper preparation and diligence, you can do it yourself, here is a good video tutorial:

You can fold the oven using a variety of methods. At the same time, there are a number of parameters that determine the specifics of the future stove:

  1. Purpose.
  2. The temperature to which the walls should be heated.
  3. The time required to heat the walls and the amount of fuel required for this.
  4. Chimney design.
  5. Heat transfer level.
  6. Scheme of the movement of gases in the channels.
  7. The form.
  8. Exterior wall finishing material.
  9. Main material.

Based on all these parameters, you will fold the oven of your dreams. The main thing at the initial stage is to draw up a drawing, with detailed diagrams. The project needs to describe in detail all the features of the future design. But before that, you need to decide what kind of stove you need.

It is easiest to fold the heating stove. It performs the main function - it gives warmth to people and the home. Such structures do not carry any additional functionality, but they are reliable and easy to use, for which they have won many sympathies among summer residents.

Naturally all heating stoves classified by heat transfer, the time required for kindling and the degree of heating of the walls. It is on these parameters that you need to rely first of all before folding the stove with your own hands.

If you expect to get a moderately heated stove, you can fold it into one brick. Such ovens heat up slowly and also cool down slowly. The average wall temperature is about 60 degrees.

Heating stoves cannot be called a refinement of architectural thought. But the massive design and uncomplicated shapes create a sense of monumentality. In addition, if you skillfully fold bricks in this stove, it can become an excellent decor element.

Moreover, do not forget about exterior decoration... After you fold the stove, you can plaster it and put tiles on top. Firstly, it will protect the structure from destruction, and secondly, it will give it a beautiful and aesthetic appearance.

Important ! Before folding a brick heating stove with your own hands, keep in mind that it requires a lot of material.

Typical representatives of the family of heating furnaces include such designs as:

  • "Dutch",
  • OPT-3,
  • Triangular oven,
  • Stove Grum-Grigimailo,
  • OTP-11
  • Rectangular heating,
  • T-shaped.

These ovens are rarely very popular. The fact is that in order to add them, it takes a lot of time and materials, and the functionality turns out to be poor as a result.

Very often, in country houses, the owners decide to lay down the heating and cooking stove. This construction has many advantages over a conventional stove. You can cook food on it without any problems and even comfortably using pine, birch or yew firewood.

Important ! About 90% of orders from stove-makers are for heating and cooking constructions.

The main element of such a stove is the hob, which is made of cast iron. The oven is not built in everywhere, since it takes a lot of skill to fold it. The most advanced designs have the following additional capabilities:

  • a chamber for baking bread,
  • stove bench,
  • niche for drying firewood,
  • boiler of water heating.

In fact, the number of additional functions depends solely on your capabilities and desires. In fact, a real multifunctional combine can be folded from a simple stove, which will become the main decoration of the kitchen. It's not even worth talking about savings. In addition, food made on such burners is always tastier.

Attention ! The level of efficiency in heating and cooking structures reaches 65%. The heat capacity is about 4 kW.

Such ovens are able to keep warm for a long time. Not only that, they provide powerful traction. The main thing is to fold everything correctly so that the smoke goes directly into the chimney, and not inside the room. The most common designs:

  • "Swede",
  • Volkov oven,
  • "Housekeeper",
  • "Teplushka"
  • "Baby".

As you can see, there is a huge variety of heating and cooking stoves, on which it is possible without problems and with benefit for family budget cook something delicious.

Constructions with heating shields are a cheap solution that includes all the functionality necessary for giving. To fold such a structure, you need a minimum of materials and physical labor. Enough 175 bricks for a full-fledged masonry.

Despite the minimal construction costs, the efficiency of the furnace is more than high. This type of stove is very popular among elderly summer residents due to its convenience and low cost.

There are sauna stoves to the side. Usually these are simple stoves, not distinguished by any architectural delights. Their main role is to heat the water in the bath and raise the temperature effectively. Such heating stoves can store heat for two days.

Advice ! The main advantage of the heaters is the ability to fit into any room.

Of course, the classification of furnaces is not limited to these types. In fact, there are a huge number of them, which are classified according to many parameters. The most popular systems have just been described.

Which brick is better to fold the stove from

It is necessary to distinguish between ordinary heat-resistant bricks from oven bricks. First, the latter can withstand temperatures above 1000 degrees. Secondly, if it is rapidly cooled, no cracks form in the structure.

For the construction of stoves, four types of stove bricks are used:

  1. Quartz. This brick is the result of firing sand and clay.
  2. Carbonaceous - consists of graphite.
  3. Fireclay. Best for a fireplace. But one cannot discount its unique thermal insulation qualities. It is able to withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees. At the same time, it does not crack and does not lose its qualities. The only negative is the yellowish tint.
  4. The main one is used when you need to fold the metallurgical furnace.

In reality, there are no strict rules regarding the choice of materials for masonry during construction. Nevertheless, there are some recommendations that are best followed, the main one of which concerns fireclay bricks. It should be placed in the hottest places, namely in the area of ​​the firebox and chimney. For all other zones, the grade must be at least M-200.

Attention ! Brick of the M-500 brand is considered the best for the stove.

Do-it-yourself oven

Seat selection

To fold a good heating structure, you need to choose the right place. In this case, the following standards should be taken into account:

  1. From the smoke channel to wooden structures should be more than 37 cm.
  2. The minimum distance of the pipe from the ridge is one and a half meters. The height above the ridge is half a meter.
  3. If it is 1.5-3 meters from the pipe to the ridge, it can be placed flush with it.

It is best to fold the stove in the middle of the house. This will ensure even heat distribution and ease of use.

Materials and tools

In addition to brick, you will also need a number of other materials to fold the stove. These include:

  • clay,
  • sand,
  • fittings.

These are the main materials without taking into account the components, but you still need to take care of the vents, the blower, the firebox, and so on.

To fold a good stove, you need to knead the right solution. It is best to use special refractory clay, in extreme cases, you can also red. Grains of sand should be no more than 1 mm. The optimal ratio is achieved empirically. This is usually 1 to 1 or 1 to 2. Plus 25 percent water from the total clay.

The main role in the construction of the furnace is played by metal objects... To fold a decent structure, you need doors and half-doors, grates, cast iron dampers, latches and views. All these elements, if necessary, can be made by hand, but you will need to purchase iron sheets.

Of course, without good tools folding the stove will not work, you will need:

  • hammer-pick specially for the oven,
  • Master OK,
  • rule-ruler,
  • wash brush,
  • roulette,
  • plumb line
  • level.

With this simple toolkit, you can fold any oven.

Stove construction process

For the foundation, a pit is dug, backfill and a reinforced frame are made. The resulting structure is poured with concrete. Before folding the stove, make sure you have brick patterns in front of your eyes.

It is very important to keep order when working. Otherwise, you will not be able to fold a high-quality oven. The slightest deviation in the design will lead to the fact that one of the channels will be blocked. The result is more than disastrous. The smoke, instead of going out through the chimney, will go into the room.

The first row is laid along the cord. Each next masonry is checked using a level. The corners are controlled by body kits. After the laying is completed, the stove equipment is installed, for example, the burners. The pipe is led out at the very end. To find out in more detail, how to fold the stove, watch the video below:

The hearth is the heart of buildings that are not connected to centralized networks. It generates the warmth necessary for life and provides energy for cooking. The microclimate in the building and its service life directly depend on its performance and efficiency, and these are very important factors in the operation of the unit, do you agree?

The article presented by us describes in detail how to correctly build a brick oven for a home. The schemes of building a hearth are given, thoroughly disassembled technological nuances... We offer carefully selected, scrupulously verified, practice-proven information on the selection and arrangement of brick stoves.

Novice stove-makers and country property owners wishing to control the work of hired craftsmen will be helped by the information we offer, based on construction requirements. Photo images and video tutorials will be an excellent help in mastering the material.

The constructive abundance of brick ovens is not easy to understand. However, owners of suburban real estate who want to equip a house with a brick unit, this difficult issue should be studied. It is better to determine in advance the option that is optimal for the purpose and device than to rebuild and modernize.

The division of brick stoves into types is made according to the following aspects:

  • Appointment.
  • Gas movement type.
  • Performance.
  • The frequency of the furnace.
  • Geometric data.

Ideally, a perfect oven for you is selected according to two or three of the most important criteria. Let us analyze what should be attributed to the aspects that are significant in your opinion, which will become the basis for choosing the optimal brick unit.

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Calculation of heat loss will make it possible to determine the furnace productivity, which should be slightly more than the calculated value, but not more than 15%. In the event that the power of the brick unit is greater than the specified limit, a different design should be selected.

To facilitate the process of choosing the most suitable brick oven for masonry in a low-rise building, nomograms have been developed. The graph below, which simplifies the calculations for the selection of a stove, is created for rooms with one outer wall.

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