Putclone and putty - two equivalence names of the same composition used for cosmetic surface restoration before laying / applying finish coat. There are many of their varieties. The most commonly applied epoxy putty - the mixture produced on the basis of epoxy resin, hardener and filler. For a small amount of work, it can be made with your own hands.
Epoxy putty are divided into several species by the nature of the filler. They can work on wood, metal, plastic or concrete. Such formulations and motorists are in demand independent repairs.
The use of epoxy putty partially restores and strengthens the base structure.
To level the metal surfaces, epoxy putty - the optimal option. They have excellent adhesion. In addition, they are well amenable to Finish Okurivania, which is important before final finish (staining).
To ideally align a metal sheet or any other metal object, use compositions with a filler in the form of the smallest sawdust from the same material from which the wruned surface is made. Most often on sale you can find compounds with aluminum powder.
Skillful motorists are successfully treated with such spacions of the car body in the place of damage. Especially profitable epoxy composition For a long preservation of the car - it completely protects the metal from corrosion and rust.
Special grades of epoxy putty for metal are used in ship repair workshops, where special properties of the applied mixture are required.
The use of epoxy on plastic surfaces is possible due to its excellent adhesion, as well as elasticity. Thanks to such qualities, this repair material found the most active application not only when restoring pVC pipesbut also when repairing automotive equipment.
So, for example, epoxy reducing compounds for plastics are used with great success to bring in the present-type used car. The resin is capable of filling all irregularities, dents and potholes on the car body. The only not very pleasant moment is the high toxicity of the used repair material. Therefore, to protect the lungs, when working, the mandatory use of respirators and protective masks is necessary.
The technology of using epoxy putty is practically no different from conventional mixtures used. Before direct application, you need to carry out a small visual analysis of damage to the surface (for example, bumper). Next, work according to the famous scheme:
After these simple operations, the obtained detail is ready for the finish painting.
When working with such surfaces, epoxy impregnations on concrete are most often used. Usually, such compounds are added, in addition to cement, also coarse-grained sand - to increase the adhesion of the base for subsequent decoration. After such an impregnation, the surface of the concrete becomes a rough and quite ready for shuttering.
For sealing cracks in concrete, the usual (epoxy resin + hardener) is suitable. It is preparing strictly according to the instructions, then fill the crack and roll over the surface. After complete polymerization, it is cleaned with a skin.
During the restoration of large elevation, a filler is added to the mixture into epoxy glue to reduce the mixture - cement or fine sand.
The diversity of epoxy putty on the construction market becomes a certain difficulty for choosing a suitable brand. And this, given the fact that, as it turns out, it is quite possible to use inexpensive epoxy glue.
However, almost all known manufacturers of construction and finishing materials produced epoxy putty for different types surfaces. Among them can be allocated:
Epoxy putty is not so difficult to do it yourself. This requires epoxy resin and hardener, as well as fillers that may vary depending on which surface will need to be placed:
Work technology is quite simple, most importantly, have everything at hand necessary components and observe proportions.
It is important not to overdo the hardener. Its quantity does not exceed 3% of the total resin at temperatures +12 - 25 ° C. And if on the street + 25 ° C, the amount of the hardener can be reduced to 1.5%, and if + 12 ° C, then increase to 3%. If the working range of temperatures under which work is expected to be carried out in the range of +13 - + 24 ° C, 2% of the hardener must be introduced into the composition.
The amount of filler is added to the eye. Here each wizard has a recipe. It is important to get a mixture of the desired consistency so that it was convenient to work with it. Properly composed epoxy putty retains elasticity for 1 hour, the process of polymerization begins, and it is impossible to touch the surface. After complete pouring, you can start sanding.
Production of epoxy putty with their own hands is conjugate with some danger. This is due to the presence of a hardener. If it is accidentally overwhelming with its amount, a rapid reaction will begin with highlighting a large amount of heat. Get burns at this point - a pair of trifles.
At all, it is not necessary to make a thorough way to prepare or primed the surface before applying epoxy putty. It is enough to smeach with her dust and degrease well.
Since the mixture of epoxy resin and hardener, under the proportions, it is pouring quite slowly, you can not hurry and mix the mixture well to a homogeneous state. It is better to use a wooden blade for this, and making the solution to do with a spatula.
Remember, from the moment of applying the composition goes around an hour before the start of polymerization. There is a lot of time to correct small flaws when applying putty. After that, after about six hours, the final froze of the mixture occurs. Another 2-3 hours, you can begin work on surface treatment and its preparation for the application of the paint layer.
Epoxy putty - comfortable, but quite expensive, if you buy a ready-made composition, material for restoration different species reason. The most optimal option is to use its use when repairing the car.
Preparation of body parts for repair, is the most important starting point for achieving best quality at the exit. I hope this axis will not challenge this axis?
So where should I start?
For example, take the front wing.
To determine the nature of damage and make the right job plan, a suspected element should be laundered. Moreover, after water, it should wipe it with White spirit and solvent. This action will give us a complete picture of damage. It should be noted that behind a small defect of the wing (scratch or a small dent) may also be observed on paint and other small defects. And, if it is destined to paint it, then it must be done with all the dignity, not looking at various faces.
So, all defects we have found - what's next? And then we come to the conclusion that we will have to primitive. Hence, the conclusion - we remove all defects from the surface.
Imagine that we have a long scratch on our surface, forming a shallow dent, and several small scratches and chips.
What to do? - the eternal question of the Russian intelligentsia.
I explain on points:
1. Matum the entire surface of the wing with abrasive P220-240. It is possible an orbital-grinding machine, and where it is not to fit - then manually. On the spawned surface, all dents and small defects seems to be manifested, and they are becoming better.
2. The scratch with dent must be stitched so that there are no sharp edges with a slot paint (if there is a rust - we remove it in zero). Do not be afraid to lose extra. Spit scratch and its edges with abrasive (skurt) P120. This is a fairly large abrasive grain, with it achieved the best adhesion of putty with the surface.
3. Next, minimize small scratches and chips. Expand them on the plane. So that there are no sharp corners and exfoliation from the surface.
4. Now, it's time to spit.
If you are not yet aware, then for you a wonderful news - putty, it is not alone! She has many varieties. Let's start in order:
2. Putty with aluminum filler (coarse two-component putty - filler, for filling in deep dents, as the primary layer). It is perfectly processed, gives a small shrinkage when drying.
3. The putty "Universal" - (two-component), is rude enough, to eliminate shallow dents and irregularities, usually yellowish.
4. Putty "Finish", (two-component) is usually white, perfectly processed. It is applied over coarse putty, for more accurate alignment.
5. Single-component putty (completely finishing?) In the tube, to fill in microarch and micronether. I recommend using for final spatlery.
Clearing the repair surface by the P120 abrasive, proceed to the shtatlevia. Do not forget, pre-degrease the repair surface. If traces of rust remained at the repair spot, they should be treated with a "rust transducer" according to the instructions on the bottle.
We mix a coarse putty with a hardener - mixing thoroughly so that there are no pink streaks (usually pink color - hardener) and evenly, with a spatula with a slight pressure fill the repair area. Do not try to do this procedure at once. Applied, waited 10-15 minutes until the shpacles get up. Usually, 3-4 kneading and sweeping are required to achieve full filling of the defective place.
The next stage is grinding.
Grind skin with abrasive grain P120. Gently, trying not to climb outside the repair area. (Otherwise extra scratches - do you need it?)
To achieve safety - plunder the repair zone by painting tape, better in two - three layers. For better control, before grinding, I strongly recommend to sweat the treated surface (dried putty) with a black manifest powder. It will be easier to control defects (where the putty should still be lifted).
I recommend polishing with a special ruble, the highest quality processing is achieved.
Grinding item, pay attention to scuff. If the metal began to perform, then it does not make sense to rub further - you need to add putty (in order to fill the failure formed between the rubbed areas).
Remember! The putty is much softer paint (varnish), and even more so the metal, so wipes the skin faster and easier. Therefore, if it began to commemorate the metal on the surface being processed, stop grinding and add a layer of putty.
Having erecting a rough putty and achieving the desired result (as they say "almost from the case"), it should be applied to all the processed suspicious places (as well as on all places indicated by the developing powder) and treat it with an eyebrow on a planer with an abrasive P220-240. By this, you will skate (scold) larger risk applied by pre-grinding abrasive with grain P120, and also smoothly gluify all transitions.
It is a suspension of fillers and pigments in the solution of target additives, organic solvents and epoxy resins.
Designed for alignment of surfaces: metal and non-metallic. Surfaces can be primed or simply purified. EPOSTAT-SPLACEUK can be used as a soil under paints and varnishes.
Epoxy replacement rack to gasoline, mineral oils, detergents, has a high water resistance. Split well.
Operating temperature in the range from -50 ° C. before +120 ° C..
Quickly dry up to 4 degrees: at T +20 ° C. - per day. With T. +65 ° C. - per 7 o'clock.
Epostat-Schpalevka It is used as an intermediate or first layer in product coating systems operating in an aggressive industrial atmosphere and indoors.
It is applied to products and equipment on petrochemical, chemical, oil refineries, atomic, pharmaceutical, food and electric power enterprises, in auto and shipbuilding.
Tara 27kg, 60kg.
Apply the plaque for metal under conditions:
Not primed surfaces clean from lubrication, oil, dirt, rolling scale, rust, old paint.. The degree of visual purity should be SA 2½ on MS ISO 8501. You can use a universal degreaser to remove oils. Om-01S..
To obtain a work maker, mix two components: the basis ( Component A.) and hardener ( Component B.). The hardener comes complete. First, a low-robust drill with a nozzle two or three minutes stir component A. Then pour the hardener and mix the mixture for at least 10 minutes.
If necessary, add to the diluent: P-5A, P-5, P-4. Enter them only after mixing the components A and B!
After stirring, the replacement of the metal should be standing 20-30 minutes.
The composition is applied with a spatula or a pneumatic sprayer. When spraying, the working viscosity of the material must be 18-20 seconds. By viscometer VZ-4..
The viability of the finished mixture with t (20 ± 2) ° С:
Drying time to degree 4: up to 24 hours for t +20 ° С or before 7 o'clock for t +65 ° C.
The dried layer is polished. Then you can apply another layer of twin or paints and varnish materials.
Note!
The total thickness of the coating is not more than 1000 microns!
Provide good ventilation while working indoors. After completing the work to ventilate the room. Use
Components BUTand B. putty stored in firmly closed containers at temperatures from –30 before +30 ° C.. Do not heated, protect from direct sunlight and moisture.
If a Epostat-Schpalevka stored in the cold, to withstand the day at T (20 ± 2) ° С.
Warranty period of storage in the factory package - 6 months from the date of manufacture.
Putty for metal is used in surface damage: when dents, small cracks or irregularities appear on them. It will give the opportunity to return its original look.
There are many different putty, but not everyone can apply for metal. The article will tell you what kind of putty exist than the metal and the peculiarities of its use.
When choosing a high-quality putty for a metal surface, it is necessary that it has such properties:
There are several types of putty for applying for metal.
Of these, the most commonly used:
Each of them has its own properties and features of applying with their own hands.
Two-component putty are the compositions, in the main polyester mass of which a hardener must be introduced before using the mixture.
The main features of such a coverage are:
Tip: Polyester materials should not be used on materials with paintwork, primers preventing corrosion, and plastic materials.
Two-component putties are:
Polyester putty are manufactured:
Tip: If you need a heat-resistant putty for metal, you must get acquainted with polyester mixtures with such properties.
Popper epoxy metal is also two-component.
Her advantages:
Nitro-putty is a one-component, fully ready-to-use composition. It is quite simple when putting the metal, but gives a greater shrinkage, up to 15%. This allows it to use it for sealing scratches and irregularities of small sizes.
At once, the layer can be applied about 0.1 millimeters of putty, which requires covering the surface of several times. Before putting the metal, it is desirable to apply primary primer. In such mixtures, the bulk of the mass create special fillers included in it.
It can be:
The filler in the material determines its appearance.
He can be:
Nitro-putty may differ in consistency, they are:
Tip: When applied, the putty of any kind should be fully followed by the instruction, otherwise the compositions will not have all the properties provided to them.
The mixtures differ in the drying method.
She may be:
Before acquiring the composition for putty, you need to familiarize yourself with its features, determine what it should meet the requirements in a specific case. It will help to correctly choose a mixture of video in this article.
Among all the existing auto repair materials, putty, perhaps, causes the greatest suspicion. Some repairmen consider it the most faithful tool to make rusty places, and impose it there almost a shovel. Have you seen pieces flying? Felt disgust for putty? However, there is nothing wrong with this product, if you use it correctly and by appointment.
Today you will find out
Puttailing in painting business is rightfully compared with the work of the sculptor. But before being taken for "artistic laying", we must very carefully approach the question of the preparation of the surface under the spatlement. After all, the layers of putty masses sometimes are quite fat, and with what success they will lie on the details, depends on the quality of surface preparation.
Preparation of the surface to the spaciousness is reduced to two mandatory requirements: the surface must be and treated with the abrasive material of the desired graininess. Only the joint execution of these two conditions will allow to ensure reliable adhesion of the putty layer with the surface.
IN technological instructions First, it must be specified, firstly, the types of surfaces suitable for applying one or another putty, and secondly, the gradation of the abrasive material to which the surface should be processed before the spit. But let's try to illuminate these technological truths again.
It is well known that before applying putty masses, the steel surface should be treated with an abrasive material of gradation P80. The risk from the P80 abrasive on the metal is optimal for the physical adhesion of the putty and is 10 microns, which provides, firstly, a good adhesion of the layer of putty with the surface, and secondly, eliminates the shrinking shrinkage and the manifestation of grinding stains through the coating layers.
However, in cases of more than 99% of cases of putty works), it should be remembered that a rather thick layer of putty is superimposed only in the central part of the defect, and the closer to the edges of the covered plot, the layer of putty thinner, and therefore the risk of its Cedigre in rich risk increases. That is why after from the repair site, the peripheral zones (sections of the transition from metal to the old coating) should be treated with papers of smaller gradation - P150 or P180.
Also, this operation will prevent the appearance of shrinkage on the old LCP (where risk from P80), if the putty will be randomly applied (running in advance, we should be avoided). After all, the risk from P80 on the LCP is already as 20 microns, which is the utmost for the putty - may arise shrinkage. And by treating the boundaries of the P150 or P180 paper, we lower risk to the optimal size (risk from the P180 abrasive per LCP is 8-10 μm).
The same arguments concern and remove various small surface defects (for example, a small scratch) with the help of convective putty. After all, the layer of putty in such cases will be small, and the flesh itself is fine-grained, so P80 will be too coarse here, you need to take the paper with smaller gradation (for example, P150). Under the application of a liquid putty, the surface is also polished by the material P150.
On the plastic element, the work of coarse sandpaper is also unacceptable (plastic is much softer metal). Here, for both zones, it is enough to use the gradation of abrasive P150. The same can be said about the aluminum and galvanized surface - to use coarse paper on them, such as P80-P100 is unacceptable. For these types of metals, it is recommended to take the paper not gross P180.
When grinding manually, use at least one gradation smaller than when machined: instead of P80, take P100 or P120, instead of P150 - P180, etc. Remember that manual processing is always gross mechanical!
After carrying out grinding works (however, as before them), do not forget to carefully deny and degrease the surface. To remove dust it is better to use a special bleeding gun, the device of which allows you to effectively blow dust even from hard-to-reach places.
After the surface is prepared, it is important to decide for what type of damage and for which parts of the automotive body apply one or another putty. The answer to this question you will find.
No wonder the masters say that 80% of success when painting a car depends on preparatory work. Here, as a rule, it lies and the ability to speed up the process and all sorts of simplifications: the client is necessary, so that the car is glitter, and what is under the paint, he will not know immediately ...
About the frank halter, such as a shitting on gloss or processing putty with water, we will not speak, everything is clear here and so. Let us give another example, it would seem harmless. So we put a putty on bare metal. Everyone was done as a textbook, and after grinding even rebuilt the repair zone with anti-corrosion soil - metal is protected! Yes, but ...
It is protected only around the covered plot, and under the putty? And putty, meanwhile, the material is porous, and therefore perfectly absorbs and holds moisture for a long time. And there is enough presence in the metal of microcracks (and the presence of such cracks, especially in places of deformations, where the metal is stretched, more than realially, not to mention corrosion or welds) - and water under high capillary pressure begins to leak through these cracks under putty with internal Parties. The putty swells, and after a few days the owner of the car notices intricate bas-reliefs from ugly bubbles on the most restored detail for which he gave decent money to real masters of his business ... 🙂
In order to protect the putty from the inner moisture and provide the highest possible protection of the metal (comparable to the factory guarantee on the coatings), in the top quality color systems directly on the metal, a layer of epoxy (and only epoxy) is applied, and only after that putty work is carried out. If everything is done correctly and then, such a coating will remain for many years during which corrosion and bubbles may appear anywhere, but not here.
In addition to the multiple increase in the anti-corrosion protection of the car body, the epoxy primer also provides the highest adhesion: both to the metal and to the apparent strip layers. After all, when applied to putty on a naked metal on chemical adhesion, it is not necessary to hope - putty in this case is kept only due to grinding wrappings. And the putty, applied over the epoxy soil, in addition to mechanical adhesion, also receives the chemical (the adhesiveness of the putty and semi-drying layer of the soil).
There are also types of work, the use of epoxy soil is mandatory. These include work on aluminum or galvanized surfaces. The fact is that not all types of putty have high adhesion to the specified types of metals, mostly only special. However, not all types of work can be performed by these putty. For example, deep irregularities are better filling in fiberglass putty, but not all of them have good adhesion to aluminum. The exit here may be like this: a layer of epoxy soil is applied to the metal, and any polyester putty is on the ground.
The soil under putty is enough in one layer (no more than 25 microns), so its flow rate and increase the cost of repair is minimal, and the effect relative to the increase in the durability of the coating is simply amazing!
Continuing to argue on the topic of surfaces suitable for spatlement, we note that many putty can also be applied to old trouble-free paint coatings. But only subject to the following conditions: the coating should be not thermoplastic (throw a rag with a solvent and check whether the paint did not soften), it should be clean and polished.
In general, the "Evolution" of the technology of applying polyester putty for some manufacturers: it was required to be applied only to the ground metal or on epoxy soil, then it turned out that it was possible for an old incredible LCP, even later it turned out that even for cured 2K acrylic fit fillers Do not sin smear something! What will be next?
But what can be said with confidence, so this is what put a putty on the places of the expanded old LCP is dangerous - it may arise and shrinkage. For this reason, the damaged LCP from the repair area must be removed with the reserve - the zone of the bare metal around the treated (in the future) putty should be at least 2 cm, and the edges of the LCP, in case the putty will go there, it should be smoothed to the maximum color - A sharp break can also be negatively affected by shrinkage. The border between the old LCP and the metal should not be felt.
When preparing the surface before spacing LCP from a damaged area, it is necessary to remove with a margin to avoid applying putty on the place of leaky. The boundaries of the old coating smooth to the maximum smooth state.
Thus, the list of surfaces on which standard putty is allowed to be applied as follows:
Before working on aluminum and galvanized surfaces, make sure that the putty used is suitable for them. If it is not suitable - use a special, or boot the surface with epoxy soil, then apply any putty. For plastic putty, use a special plastic putty.
Why not? A thermal component, manifested with polymerization, and chemical incompatibility comes into effect here.
When opening the bank with a putty first, mix it well, especially if the resin performed on the surface, because the fillers and pigments are settled on the bottom and are strongly compacted.
For mixing putty with a hardener, prepare two blade spatula.
Large volumes are conveniently kneaded on "Easels" - small sheets of metal, plastic, plywood, etc. A leaf of organic glass is well suited for these purposes - in contrast to other materials, the plexiglass is easily cleaned with a spatula or knife. However, what to stir - only your choice. The main thing is that the surface is clean, smooth and, preferably solid.
Various corrugated surfaces, which are at hand, are not suitable - air will be missed in the putty.
As for volumes, it is desirable to knead such a quantity of putty, which will be enough to work for 3-4 minutes. Further, the putty begins to be captured and the process of applying it is complicated, and the quality of the spatlement decreases.
Polyester putty - two-component materials. With a bank, putty in the kit always goes a tube of a hardener with whom (not with everything immediately, and in certain proportions) putty mass is mixed before use. By the way, the "hardener" is actually a polymerization initiator - benzoyl peroxide.
It is very important to mix the putty and hardener in exact proportions. The amount of the added hardener depends on the air temperature and varies within 1,5-3% From the mass of putty.
So, at normal temperatures, 2% of the hardener by mass is added. In the heat (25 ° C and higher) it is allowed to add a little less than the hardener (1.5%), in the cold time (12 ° C and below) - a little more (3%). But exceed the recommended hardener's maximum, as well as lowering the minimum, it is impossible - excess are harmful for both health and painting results.
Quite often, the master, especially in the cold time, add a hardener more laid, waiting for this putty faster grabbing. Not there was something. In fact, an exactly so much hardener is entering the reaction, but its surplus (that part that exceeds a three-percent barrier) is preserved in its pure form. And since peroxide is a chemically very aggressive substance, then its residue can "lean" through all layers of coating up to the paint and react with its pigments, discolor them. As a result, the stain of the putty will be visible on the finished LCP! This is especially manifested on blue colors. These are "wonders" ...
Punching peroxide. The reason is an excess hardener or its bad mixing with putty
So if the hardener is taken too much and the mixed putty mass has a pink shade, then it is better not to use such a putty and throw it away at once. As they say, from sin away ...
If you add a hardener less than the laid, then it is not far to conversations about the fragility of putty, and about its very sticky surface layers that instantly clog the grinding paper and scratch the surface.
Usually, professionals add a hardener on the eye, but the practice shows that its number always automatically unders. Therefore, at first it is advisable to use electronic scales several times to train your eyes.
How to do it?
Spatula on which you will mix, put on the scales and reset them. Put 100 g of putty on the second spatula. Consequently, we must add a hardener 2 g (2% of 100 g). So we get proper relation — 100:2 . If 100 grams for you are much, put 50 g of putty and squeeze 1 g of the hardener (2% of 50 g).
Visually remember this ratio and in the future you can quietly do without weights. If a small error is allowed, it will in any case fall in the range of 1.5-3%. But from time to time you still recheck yourself!
Visually 100: 2 ratio corresponds to the volume of the tablespoon and pea. This will help you in the absence of scales.
By the way, the putty from the bank is better to get a separate clean spatula. It is undesirable to use that spatula who participated in stirring, otherwise the peroxide will be "entered" in the bank and the putty will gradually lose its elasticity.
At first glance, the mixing technique of putty with the hardener may seem like something not particularly important, but in fact it is a very responsible moment, since the ineptly mixed mixture, due to the large amount of air in it, leads to the formation of emptiness, large and crater which subsequently cause drawdown and even the local detachment of the coating.
Properly mix the putty with the hardener must be chopping, pressing movements ( operation 1 and 2). Such movements will exhibit air to the sides, removing emptiness.
An exception to this rule is to putty with fiberglass - it needs to be mixed with non-chopping, but circular motions, so as not to damage the fibers that are the reinforcement of this material. Although for putty with a short chopped fiber, the same technique is allowed as for all other species of putty.
When mixing it is important to monitor the creation of one-photon mass (without streaks and contrasting divorces). With the change in the color of the enamel and the difficulties of curing putty, you will not be able to intimidate anymore, but it is impossible to forget about it. Red bodies in a poorly spacious mixture will not notice only a halter.
By the way, peroxide is actually a substance of a muddy-dairy color, and the dye (most often bright red) is added specifically to control the uniform mixing.
To check homogeneity, slightly smear the putty on the solder ( operation 3.). A monophonic color speaks about the readiness of putty to apply. "Life time" of the cooked mixture is short-lived - only 5-7 minutes. So hurry.
Mixed putty is applied to the prepared surface with spatulas (speech, naturally, is about high viscosity materials). Size, shape, material and other characteristics of the spatula depend on the addiction of the wizard and the technological specific situationBut the most important thing - spatulas should always be clean, and the edge - smooth and smooth. To clean the spatulas, we recommend soaking them in a solvent, only rubber do not leave for a long time - scream.
Flexible rubber spatula is convenient to use for spatleing of convex and concave surfaces.
When eliminating large irregularities, it is not necessary to strive to align everything at a time. It is better to apply a few thin layers than one thick. The thick layer may not be tightly dense and later putty can love and give cracks. In addition, a large number of air bubbles can be concluded in a thick layer, which, when grinding, turn into crater, requiring additional spatlements, or remain inside the layer and will cause problems in the future.
In general, to create a high-quality coverage for one pass, it is recommended to apply layers with a thickness of no more than 1.5-2 mm. Moreover, these recommendations are relevant for many fiberglass putty, originally designed on layers of 3-4 mm.
Between the sequentially embossed layers of putty, it is necessary to withstand the time interval from 20-30 minutes to an hour. During this time, the putty layer is still able to take on the subsequent layer without prior grinding. If more time passed, the putty must be stuck, and after that, apply the next layer.
Special attention should be paid to the application of the first layer. Big minds were counted that in order to completely press the putty in the risks left by the abrasive material, and to squeeze air from them, the force of 2-4 tons per square centimeter should be applied.
Therefore, the first layer (it is also called adhesion), we must apply with a maximum force and only a thin layer, stretching the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe proposed spatlery.
If the force when applying the first layer is insufficient, then subsequently the putty can give a shrinkage, "failing" into unfilled voids in risks, and grinding risks will appear on the surface of the LCP. 
So the first layer must be rubbed into the surface with all enthusiasm. And already you can impose thicker layers of putty.
Before applying each subsequent smear, it is necessary to do operation 1 and 2 according to the mixing scheme. By this, we purify the spatula and turn the wrapal mass, which extends a little its vitality (it is slightly cool down).
Metal spatula when applied must be kept at an angle of 45-60 ° in relation to the surface. Such a slope ensures the maximum pressure of putty in risks and best displaces air from the layer.
Applying putty
Applying putty remember that the more accurately the surface will be covered, the easier it will be grinding. Your task is to distribute putty on the surface to the smooth layer, make it as smooth as possible and correctly formed.
For this, smooth motion smoothes the putty, removing the "steps" and giving details the desired form. The boundaries of the covered site also try to smooth up to the maximum smooth state, the openers of the spatula with one edge on the beacon surface (undeformed section). This operation must be carried out quite quickly. You are limited to the spacing time of putty.
In general, nothing complicated! Carefully squeeze the putty, removing air bubbles, then stretch and exit "zero". And all will be well!
After 4-7 minutes after mixing, the putty will begin to be captured. You will feel this moment to increase efforts when applied. This is a signal that it is time to climb and clean the spatula.
When working with fiberglass putty, it should be remembered that after drying it becomes very tough and with difficulty grinding. To avoid this, it can be overlapped without grinding another, soft powder. Therefore, it is not necessary to fill out the irregularity of fiberglass putty "flush", and even more so "with a slide" - you need to leave 2-3 mm for a layer of soft putty, which we will apply in 20-30 minutes.
Thus, firstly, we will not need to suffer and grind a rough glass-filled putty (which will need to be done if it has time to dry in finally). We will have to grind only a layer of soft putty, which is much easier. And secondly, the adhesion between the layers of putty will be more powerful, since the chemical interaction of poor and fresh putty contributes to this.
If you still have to grind the fiberglass putty, then it is necessary to do this no later than after 12 hours, because it "stones" and grind it much more difficult. It is caused by the fact that it includes only fiberglass, and there is not a single filler that would make grinding. So proceed to grinding such a putty on the same day.
You already know about the differences in mixing fiberglass putty.
Putty with aluminum filler possess a slightly longer time of the "survivability" of the prepared mixture - it is 3-4 minutes longer than the remaining polyester putty, which cannot but rejoice, especially when working on large surfaces. But this putty should be mixed, since heavy aluminum particles can settle into a layer depth, and the surface will remain unrelated to the resin hardener.
Since this putty practically does not give a shrinkage (again, due to the presence of aluminum in the composition), then apply it to repair the repair follows, and not "with a slide" as soft. In this case, it is possible to significantly speed up and simplify the grinding process. After all, it is stuck it is still harder than soft.
Here are the main requirements: not to apply layers with a thickness of more than 1-1.5 mm at a time, and do not exceed the total thickness of the powder layer (2-3 mm). To eliminate deep irregularities, use the filler putty.
Liquid putty are applied in two or three layers, while providing a thickness of the coating in 300-400 μm. It is desirable to apply a liquid putty only on the entire surface of the part and not to apply the stain - the transition boundaries will still be visible. The diameter of the nozzle for applying is 2-2.5 mm.
Do not forget about the hardener! Its number is indicated in this description (usually 5-7%). And do not add any solvents that are not intended for it into putty. The quality of the coating will not be better.
It is impossible to dry a liquid putty in a room with high humidity and process with water - it is inherent on all the same problems as other polyester putty. And as well as the rest of the putty, it needs to overlap with a soil filler.
Usually, the grinding of putty can be processed relatively soon - 20-30 minutes After applying (at 20 ° C). Current time to grinding and drying conditions, see the packaging.
For low temperatures The putty dries longer, so the polymerization process is sometimes accelerated by means of hairdryers and other utility tools. If you do this, then warm the item from the inside and the uniform flow throughout the area, because if you warm up the outside and crosswise, an increase in uneven residual stresses will not wait long.
It should be remembered that polyester powders are sensitive to high temperatures And when overheating can crack and swell. Therefore, when the item is warming up, follow the degree of heating to the touch. The putty can be moderately hot, but in no case should not burn your fingers.
The maximum temperature that most polyester putty withstands isolate is 60-80 ° C. Some putty withstand greater heating, such as putty with an aluminum filler, which can be warm up to 135 ° C.
Well, the best drying for putty without a doubt is the shortwave IR lamp - it is convenient, high quality and fast. Such a drying method is good in that it gives a complete guarantee of the lack of shrinkage of putty in the future, and the surface is ready for grinding after 5-7 minutes. Just observe the distance - at least 60 cm from the repaired place.
When using polyester putty, like all other LKMs, do not neglect the means of protection! Vinyl or latex gloves are a penny, and putting them on their hands, you immediately feel yourself with a white man. Application of the respirator when grinding is required!
Store all this chemistry is needed tightly closed (otherwise the solvent will be weathered from the bank and the putty will lose its elasticity) and not in the sun.
In grinding putty.
