Electricity wiring in the house begins with installation in special sockets of plastic containers - installation boxes. Those that are inserted into concrete or other hard fences, type of bricks, are called submersed.
They are hollow glasses are smooth inside, and outside have small protrusions, a teeth for reliable fixation. On the rear wall of the case there are punched hatches for the passage of the cable of various diameters. And on the front - holes for fastening with screws of electolation. Their use guarantees the functional safety of electrical points.
Basic electrical products are standardized. There is no special nomenclature, but they are classified:
For plastic converters in concrete characteristic:
Accommodation in the wall begins with the preparation required tools and materials. To do this is used:
Installation is performed in such a sequence:
1. Place the installation of the electrical product. A planned hole is noted on the wall. Either as indicated in the project, or according to the standards adopted by electricians.
Data is not strictly regulated. Sometimes switches are located according to the rule of the elongated hand, especially in own home. At the level of the middle of the palm, plus-minus 5 cm, you can install the peavern, which will be convenient to everyone. If an installation is expected next to the door, then from the edge of the opening, not counting the box, you need to retreat by 15-20 cm.
2. The hole is performed by any of the tools above. If the work is carried out using the crown, then at first its guide drill is included in the planned marking center, then the entire hollow cylinder is crashed into the surface.
If applied, then you must first stand on the wall outline and its center. Starting from the last and throughout the perimeter, drill holes (the closer to each other, the better) to the entire depth of the installation box. Using a hammer and chisel or a perforator with a shock bat, bring the landing socket to the desired sizes.
The use of a small corner car, which is called the Bulgarian or ESM, does not provide the immediate depth. Typically, the disk enters a smaller mark in the thickness of concrete than necessary, so after the ESM should still work in a chisel. This reception is the most fast, but also the most dusty.
3. Set the design to the finished cavity for fitting. The depth of the landing socket must be 0.4-0.5 cm more products. This is necessary to fill in the further solution of fixation and entry of the wire.
For further convenience of mounting the edge of the manufactured hole, it is better to cut a knife. This will allow the hull of the shrink box more tightly to the wall, while its "skirt" can be installed flush with concrete surface. If this is not done, the frame may move away from the wall by 1-2 mm.
4. Next with a hammer with a chisel or a perforator with a shock bat in the upper part of the planting jack, shtrob for laying the wire is made. On the back side of the tank, we press or cut the suit of the desired diameter to enter the cable and stretch into the body of the product. Podozhematnik with cable insert into the nest so that in the depths there is still 2-3 mm for a gypsum solution.
5. Getting to prepare a fixing composition. To do this, mix powder and water, remembering that the hardening occurs quite quickly. It is necessary to clean the finished hole in the wall of concrete, and then rich in water to the water until the full absorption. The spatula lay it in the bottom with a mixture and penetrate with the wire in such a way that the solution not only covered the rear wall, but also a little squeezed out of the slots. Sometimes for better fastening the fixing framework is favorable and the body of the container itself.
6. The glass must or enter the nest flush with a concrete wall, or "drown" by 0.1-, 15 cm deeper than its surface. The correctness, namely the verticality of the installation, is checked by the level. This requirement must be observed for further fragile installation of the inserted electrical product.
7. We lay the spatula fixing composition into the gaps between the wall and the case. At the same time, align the glass so that the fastening screws are parallel to the floor. After the absolute drying of the solution is removed from the wall.
Since the work of the electrician is associated with life-threatening factors, it is necessary to adhere to the rules for labor protection regulated for this activity. The above setting of peasants into the wall of concrete was described for mounting in a new building that is not connected to the power grids. If everything is performed there, where there is already a voltage, suppose, in the event of replacing the old outlet to a new one, then pre-it is necessary to check with a multimeter. And only making sure that the automatic protection that is in the circuit breaker is disabled, can be started.
Working with the "Bulgarian" is fraught with not only accompanied by a dusty veil, but also flying small pieces of concrete with small-dimensional slices, damaging the wound on the face. Therefore, use the means of individual protection of the type of protective glasses, masks or respirator.
The gypsum mixture must be developed for 5-7 minutes, and alabaster - for 4-5. It is not always convenient, but especially if a person has no big experience in installing electrical products and working with these compositions.
If the installation was performed poorly and there was a need for its adjustment, then everything will be destroyed and start on a new one. Therefore, non-professional is better to use the gypsum putty KNAUF foen (fogenfuller) or the Rotband plaster, which have gypsum in its composition. Their hardening begins after 30-40 minutes and is evenly passed, while the gypsum domestic mixtures do not possess such a dimension, but they differ in good adhesion with a spatula that interferes with work. When applying our solutions, it is required to be relentlessly wet.
Electrification at home is one of the main steps when creating ideal conditions For accommodation. But taking electricity - this does not mean that everything will be securely. A lot of things depends on how the installation of peasants in the concrete wall was carried out, or in the drywall. They are also called installation boxes. Without conversion, it is impossible to make normal outlets that will be held even at high loads. Let's talk about what work needs to be performed and what is required to install these elements.
Subscribers call special boxes made of certain materials (plastic, metal, etc.). These items are used when installing electrical points (sockets) on the walls. The main purpose of the pickling is the extraction of the hole in the wall and at the same time they make it suitable for further installation Sockets or switches.
Additionally, the submersors are also used when lowering or moving out rosettes as a junction box. This makes it possible to make it possible to perform all work as conveniently, without producing an additional stroke of the holes in the wall and without getting the old wiring. Outputs can now be found on the shelves of stores round, square, rectangular and with rounded edges.
Different conversion
Previously, all the submersors were made of metal. They were called the sleeves and were used everywhere. To date, metal submersers are applied only in wooden houses, where you need to comply with fire safety conditions. Among the disadvantages of such sleeves can be allocated:
To be honest, it is practically no restrictions for the installation of conversion in the time frame. They can be mounted both before the start of work and after their execution. The only exception is the walls that have not yet passed shtacking. The installation of conversion in the concrete wall is also not recommended to be carried out after pasting it with wallpaper, there is a high probability of damaging the coating itself.
Some electricians decide to save their time and in advance recognize the thickness of the layer of plaster. To be honest, this method is pretty doubtful, since no one can say exact values \u200b\u200band subsequently there is a high probability that the socket will stick out of the wall strongly, or vice versa - will be recessed into it.
According to the rules, peasants, like distribution boxes, Must be mounted flush with the wall, or leave no more than 2 mm into it.
Use holes for the outlet
The track markup includes the designation of location of sockets. They are determined by reconciliation with a project or mounting scheme.
Overclocking in concrete is mounted only after the hole is formed using a crown or a pepperrum with a peak. Fixation is performed using a building mixture (alabaster, putty, etc.). Places the location of the sockets like this:
Make a hole in several ways. The choice of tools is completely dependent on the material of the wall. The easiest way to make deepening by foam concrete and other porous concrete concrete. One of the most difficult materials is the usual monolithic concrete.
The holes under the fodder can be done in three ways:
Creating a hole under the outlet
As already mentioned, do their own holes in the concrete in the concrete. For this reason, this method will consider in the most detailed as possible.
Not those crowns that can be operated on porous concrete and plasterboard are used to do with recesses. It requires a high-profile nozzle with diamond spraying. This guarantees its strength. Additionally, high-alloy metal in the form of the basis. At least such crowns and efficient, but at the same time their cost is quite high. So not everyone has such a thing for pocket.
Additionally, it is worth noting that the deepening is done using this technique takes a long time. The tool itself is greatly heated and he needs to have a rest. For these reasons, making 30-40 holes can take 2-3 days, which is a rather large indicator. It is much better to save time to make a bore on the contour of the hole and after it to knock the concrete to the chisel on their own.
The process of carrying out the installation of conversion is carried out in a certain sequence. Observing it, you can spend a job with qualitatively and without further alterations. So, the work technique is as follows:
Next, simply wait about an hour and you can use the approach to direct purpose. This instruction will allow you to install the best possible installation and at the same time will leave the time for execution. Even when independent work It should not appear difficulties.
The most important thing to remember is that the consistency of the mixture plays a very important role in the seal. It must be in moderation thick, since otherwise it will simply not fall into all the holes and will not create the desired clutch. Strongly liquid consistency will also not allow fully working, as it simply leaving the hole.
Do not install when hitting the hammer. There is a high probability damage the box. And the effect of this will be not enough. It is best to use plaster holes for sealing. You can also use gypsum plaster, but its application requires knowledge of some rules.
First of all, this is a good adhesion to the soldier, which requires its frequent wetting. Gypsum does not have such properties and it is much easier to smear on the conversion. Second - uneven frost. So, if the top is already reduced, then inside there is a high probability of fluidity of the material. This leads to the fact that aligning the peavern, you can deform the surface that is already smooth.
Installation of peasants in a concrete wall is slightly different from the sequence of work on the surface of the surface opened by plasterboard. The fact is that the element will be in the space between the wall and the sheets where there is no place for which you can cling. The sequence of installation is carried out by the following crop:
If the hypokarton is attached to the wall with the help of a building mixture, then there are also its own nuances. Although they are rarely done, but there are cases when this method is the only way out. So, first you need to prepare two crowns: on plasterboard and concrete. First, take the first and cut the sheet. Next, change it on diamond crown And we do a deepening in concrete. It should be borne in mind that the submersors in this case should be applied shallow to minimize the cost of force. After drilling, you need to knock out everything that remains in the deepening and then the seal is made in the same way as in a conventional concrete wall.
As a rule, the work on the installation of conversion does not take up much time and is not difficult. For this reason, they can be performed independently, not attracting specialists. Be sure to store several power tools in the form of a perforator or drill. This will give the opportunity to solve the issue of cooling, since while the first "aggregate" will work, then the second will rest, and so in turn.
Podrottor - This is a plastic cylinder, which is mounted in the wall, for the subsequent installation of sockets or switches in it. There are typical approaching (as in the picture) and double, triple, quadruple, etc ..
Also, submersed in the type of installation: for monolithic bases and for leafy materials. Standard dimensions Outmeal: diameter 60 mm, depth 40 mm.
First of all, you need to decide where the conversion will be, decide how many pieces you need and choose a height from the floor.
If you make the rosettes for sockets, then the recommended height is 25-50 cm from the floor, if the submersors are for switches, then the height is 90-120 cm from the floor.
Also, it is necessary to think through which side the electrically conduction will be supplied to make the holes in the opposite.
In the example, the wire is supplied to one conversion from above.
Then you need to beat the deepening in the wall in the size of the submersionists, so that they are to be flown with the wall. It is best to beat the perforator with a nozzle peak.
Also, you can use the grinder with diamond diskTo cut down the contour, and then knock out the middle of the perforator. In this case, it turns out even, neat recess, but dust from this method will be very much.
To glue the peasants, the putty is suitable or glue for tiles. If you want to immediately begin the installation of wiring, I recommend using alabaster (building gypsum), the time of setting is about 5 minutes.
In our example, a putty is used.
We divorce it with water, and we apply a spatula into the recess.
We take the opposite and insert into the deepening, but not much blending.
With the help of the level, we blend the peasants in the wall.
We press the level horizontally and vertically to each conversion.
Align the peasants horizontally. Use holes for self-tapping screws on the pickup housing as a reference point, apply the level and align. If you have more than three conversion, then you also need to follow so that they do not rush, all holes for self-tapping screws should be on one straight line.
Exposed, put the edge, leaving a small unmasked area from above, for laying the wire.
After laying the wire you can lure completely.
In the same way, you can install any number of conversion.
Consider an example of fastening the opposition to the ventilation unit.
The thickness of the walls of this block is about 3 cm, which is unlikely to allow you to establish a supener on putty, but, as you know, there are no hopeless situations.
We cut the hole with a grinder with a diamond disk in size of the sizes.
Using pebbles, pieces of drywall and all crap, exhibiting submersors in terms of level.
Now neatly scatter the edges using the mounting foam.
We stretch the wire and secure to the end.
After complete hardening of the foam, we cut up too much.
And the latter that has not mentioned, this is the fastening of conversion to plasterboard or other sheet materials.
This requires the crown of the desired diameter, as well as special submersers.
It is possible to determine them in appearance, they have two additional hooks around the edges.
In order to establish them, it is enough to drill a hole equal to the external diameter of the opposite, insert it, and then spin the two screws along the edges, until the conversion is completely suited to the surface.
That's all.
Successful mounting :)
When it is repaired, it's time to start to understand where we will have furniture, what place will be for a TV or refrigerator ... and it often turns out that a new place for some devices that are not equipped with a socket leads to the nearest not worn not stretching.
"In general, why do you need these housing transfers?" Think.
Then an order appears - install the socket. But the wall is made of strong Soviet concrete: the blow to the chisel will not work here, it is not a brick. But it does not matter! Armed perforator, and today we will participate in the competition, where the specific fortress will fight the ingenuity of the Russian man!
We should not ignore these items, as some of them depend on your health.
Perhaps it will be an old socket on the same wall. You do not need it, and you usually do not use it. Well, a good reason to get rid of him, because he is so long, tired of you, I thought you decided to disassemble it and connect it with a cable from the new connector, which he needed;
Now turn another hole in the middle;
The procedure is long, so be patient. Also, do not forget that you will need to continue to expand the hole, which was created below, trying to use the brush;
It is important for the correct and smooth setting of the outlet;
Remove the socket and connect red (white) and blue, isolated from insulation, to phase compounds (L) and nul (N). Yellow wire responsible for grounding, and if it is not in your home, you can not clean it. Then insert this node in Podrozetnik so as not to interfere with its dividing LEPESKI (recreation) and the ears of the screws were put on the screws themselves, which are screwed into Podrozetnik;
In addition, make sure that it is located horizontally inside the subcontractor without curvature;
Everything is almost ready, and the most important moment - Connect the socket. Now you have to go to the ground and turn off the apartment.
If you do not know where there are cars from your home, check your neighbors from your neighbors their cars and, as a result, yours if you act except. Now turn off the one that is responsible for the supply of electricity on the right side of the residential premises.
If you do not know, disconnect everything.
Well, now you can safely participate in the connection. Pull the wires from the new plug with the old and tighten the PPE covers from above. That's all, we hope that this article helped you!
Each builder and owner of housing or property for housing throughout his life works with such an important task as the change in wiring.
Replacing electrical installations is a responsible process that requires close attention and attention.
To ensure the quality of wiring, it is necessary to pay enough time and attention to prevent this issue in the near future.
Wiring is performed in two versions: internal wiring and external.
In old houses, there are often external electrical appliances.
It is inadequate and dangerous. To replace the old socket new (or switching), the old one must disassemble. Before starting electromontazh electrical voltage Must be disconnected using entry machines.
To start the installation, you need to have a set of tools:
First, check the place to install, and then turn the desired circle size.
Completion of the installation and fastening of juniper will help building materials: A mixture of plaster, alabastra or already prepared quick-drying mixtures.
The installation should begin with marking the placement location in the concrete wall (mark the circle with a pencil or marker).
Then using a perforator or drill, turn the circle to desired size. We are trying to include a piece in it. If there is irregularity in niche, remove them with the help of chisels, screwdrivers and hammer.
On the side with which the wires are suitable, remove the plug and place it in the hole.
The correct installation of sockets in the concrete wall does not work without stretched channels for coating electrical wires. For these works, you will need:
The mounting of the bearing screw in the wall is made using alabastra or solution.
Return to the installation screen in a concrete wall: it must be aligned with water scales, it should not fall on the wall, because it is impossible to mount the nest, and they stick it, it was not necessary because
It is ugly and dangerous.
Block the wardrobe in the wall of alabaster, plaster. Before using the fastening solution, drilled hole. Then the spatula or structural spatula will have to fill the hollow hole and cover the mixture and self-learning from the outside. Insert the box with an extra mixture to fill empty forms.
Alebaster and cold freezing for 5-10 minutes, and then we will continue to work until the setting is started.
Continue directly from the installation of the socket, loosen the connectors, secure the wires and terminals in them. Screw the screws along the edges that are used to attach the socket in the mounting box. Then attach the plug to the central screw. Installation stopped.
Making holes in the concrete wall delivers many difficulties. The material is solid, needs 
In a specialized tool.
A task is particularly difficult to set a secret outlet that requires appropriate recess.
Additional complexity is to make it necessary to make a non-through hole, but a recess having some dimensions.
The solution to the problem will require skills, experience, certain knowledge.
The question is not much difficult, but needs a detailed consideration.
Drilling hole in concrete - test for the strong spirit of people. Builders are trying to use the tools corresponding to the material to be processed. 
Holes in concrete are often trying to make victorious (carbide) drills and the result remains unsatisfactory.
The hardness and abrasive qualities of concrete quickly outline the cutting edge of the drill.
The most successful tool capable of cope with concrete is a perforator boring, using its own technique other than drilling.
Several more difficult to make the nest with the help of a grinder. It will take the installation of a diamond cutting disk, but it will not work the entire task, you will have to bring the result using a perforator or an electric train.
Works produced with solid types of concrete in carrier walls panel housesrequire the use of the appropriate tool. You should not waste time attempts to act inappropriate devices, it is necessary to immediately apply specialized devices.
Drilling concrete is useless.
The perforator boring copes with the task quite confidently, since another principle is used - not cutting, but the rocking of small particles of concrete. The process is so called - shock-swivel drilling. 
Manufacturing of holes is possible by two methods:
The work is simple, but will require compliance with the priority of actions:
Distances between them need to be done as little as possible.
Cutting the shoes is made by a perforator with a special nozzle in the form of a blade forming a neat groove.
The process is quite long, noisy, but efficient.
Using the crown makes it possible to form a neat slot circumference. The crown of 65 mm with a diameter of 65 mm is usually used, corresponding to the type of size of the peasant. 
The use of the crown makes it easier to mark up - it is enough to designate the center of the hole and drill the hole with a diameter of 7-8 mm.
The crown is deepened into the wall at a sufficient distance with a slight margin (3-5 mm).
The nest is extracted with the help of a chisel. A dense unfashionable concrete to knock out is not easy, ease efforts will help several additional holes in the center. Sometimes it is necessary to almost completely drill the central part.
The process is noisy, unprecedented, but quite effective.
The use of the proper effect drill will not create. The drill with a carbide tip is much stronger than usual, but working with concrete is too complicated for it. 
The exceptions become soft materials used for the manufacture of interroom partitions:
Carbide drill can work with soft species concrete.
Procedure:
Instead of crowns, various nozzles with circular saws of a suitable diameter can be used.
The manufacture of the strip is made by creating multiple depths for a small depth (1.5-2 cm) located on the axis of the future wire.
Side ranges are connected with the stretching of the rotating drill under the tilt over the channel line. It is more convenient to produce two narrow bands traveled at a distance of about 1 cm from each other, followed by the removal of the jumper between them.
The installation of a plastic cable-channel is installed inside, or laying the wires in dual isolation.
Both options are equally possible, choose a convenient for you.
The use of a corner car, in the spacious, called the grinder - not the most the best way, but in the absence of other features suitable. 
The technique of performing the nest is significantly different from the methods used when working with a perforator or an electric drill.
Bulgarian does not allow you to make a neat round shape of the desired diameter.
We have to work with coarse, approximate methods. But the manufacture of the shifts to the submersion is facilitated, since the straight furrows of the Bulgarian makes perfect. Procedure:
Working with concrete is accompanied by the formation of a large amount of dust, small fragments of stone.
The sharp edges of the particles are dangerous for the eyes and respiratory organs, so it is necessary to use safety glasses and a respirator (gauze mask). Power tools work requires compliance with specific safety rules. 
It is prohibited to use defective tools that have damage to the network wire.
In operations with a hammer and chisel, it is necessary to monitor the strength of the hammer nozzle on the handle.
Keisilly perpendicular to the treated surface. The sprinkled ends of the chisel is to be removed.
Dust formation is a serious problem that occurs during the work. The use of a vacuum cleaner can significantly reduce the volumes of dust and small particles.
Solid, dense brands of concrete (on the bearing walls) during operation it is recommended to be wetted with water. The material is less dust, becomes more supplied.
Check out a detailed video:
The holes of the holes must be performed with complete confidence that there is no danger of damage to the electrical cable.
If there are thick reinforcement rods in the walls, it is recommended to use a diamond spraying crown. She slowly, but reliably overcomes fittings.
When installing modern sockets or switches internal Installation Their mechanisms should be placed in a special plastic box - submerged. To date, almost all electrical fittings are performed in such a way that allows you to set several outlets or switches into one row.
Agree that one rosette in the kitchen is not enough, and the walls installed at different parts of the wall is not always convenient to use.
Therefore, often the electrician is designed in such a way that in one place there are several points for connecting household appliances. It is very practical and functionally.
Some masters for ignorance fulfill the assembly not under one multi-platform frame, but set along separate sockets nearby. This design does not create the impression of a single whole device, because of this, this installation does not quite beautifully look.
Professionals when installing a block of sockets always use a decorative frame for two, three or four windows.
But sometimes it happens that at the final stage of installation, the socket is hardly able to install in the boxes, due to the fact that they are superimposed on each other.
The decorative frame in this case also does not in its place.
This is due to the fact that when installing submersors, the distance between their centers was not respected. Ideally, the distance between the centers of the submersion should be 71 mm. And when installing a large number of boxes, they begin to shift each other relative to each other or deform under the action of a spacion mixture.
Good afternoon dear friends!
I am glad to welcome you on the site "Electrician in the house". In this article, let's talk about one simple and, along with the beneficial thing for installations of pickles in brick walls, concrete and gas packs. Those people who professionally engage in electrical installation know how sometimes it is not easy to install a block of five sockets.
With the help of a simple device, which will be discussed in this article, it is possible to install conversion with an accuracy of a millimeter.
Similar pieces are not produced industrial enterprisesTherefore, the masters independently make self-made suitable for them. This adaptation on the slang electricians is called pattern for installation of converters. Also there are such names as a conductor or layout, but they all perform the same function.
Most plastic boxes for mounting sockets have a dimension of 68 mm in diameter and a depth of about 45 mm.
Boxes in different manufacturers may differ slightly among themselves in size and characteristics, but everyone has the same functionality - being collected in the block, they provide the interconnect distance of the installed mechanisms of 71 millimeters.
So that when installing the box do not danced each other relative to each other, they must be rigidly fixed with each other.
How are boxes going to the block? Consider submerged Schneider Electric to the internal installation. If you carefully look at the front part there are special latches for docking several boxes.
You can also dock boxes using special connectors - plugs.
At first glance, it seems simple - after collecting boxes in the unit, the required intercentrons are automatically obtained.
Why do you need any template for the installation of conversion? All so perfectly joined.
However, it should be borne in mind that to consolidate the peavercraft, it should be filled with a solution with a solution between the walls of the hole in the wall and the submerged scene.
Therefore, the laying of the solution into the nest is carried out with an excess. And when the box is starting to put into place, the solution will start to leave all the cracks, filling emptiness, resulting in very strong fixation of the peaver.
But when pressing the box, it is necessary to make a fair force, under the action of which the plastic conversion can simply burst or change the shape (become oval), and the block of several boxes must be blurred in different directions.
At the final stage of installation of the mechanisms of sockets and switches, it is impossible to compensate all these shortcomings.
Moreover, the installation box should be clearly installed in the level so that the ends are not divened and the non-recessed, and were flush with the wall. When installing the block of pickles with bare hands, this can be done, but it is spent very much time and effort.
It is to solve such tasks that I made myself such a device as a template for installing conversion that allows you to save not only time, but also nerves.
Let's proceed directly to the manufacture of our device.
To do this, I took an aluminum corner of 40x40 mm. The length of the corner depends on the amount of conversion installed in the block, plus the necessary indents from each edge for fastening the corner to the wall (approximately 10 to 15 cm on each side). I decided to make a layout for five pickles therefore took a 60 cm length corner.
But by the way, it is not necessary to make a pattern from the corner and especially from aluminum.
You can take any hard material of arbitrary shape, who has what is, for example, piperofil. The convenience of the aluminum template in its ease. By the way, the ideas arose to make a mock from the Dean Rake, there are no need to drill there.
Now in the center of the edge where the boxes will be attached to be placed. On both sides of the corner with the help of a roulette we find the center and celebrate the pencil line.
According to the intended line, we will drill holes for fastening the peasants with self-tapping screws.
Our pattern for installation of converters Almost ready. We proceed to drill holes. To do this, we help us a screwdriver and a metal drill with a size of 3 mm.
We retreat from the edge of the corner 12 cm and drill the first hole.
So that the drill does not slide from the planned site of drilling, I recommend it to put it.
Then we measure the distance between the centers of the screws of the pickle and carry it to our template. I got 60 mm. It will be a point for drilling the second hole. Similarly, drill holes for all submersors in the block.
Try on the box on the bar
At the edges of the corner, we retreat 5 cm and drill two more holes.
When installing it helps press the whole design to the wall.
Now let's fix on the finished layout all the pickles, it turns out smooth designwhich will be able to insert into the wall without distortion and bends.
Let's see what distance we did between the centers of the boxes relative to the drilled holes:
To install the conversion unit with a template, we throw a little solution into the hole in the wall, send the wires in the pickles and crepary the pattern to the wall.
Previously you need to drill in the wall wall. Corner to the wall fix dowels.
The convenience of such a design is that all boxes are installed with an exact distance relative to each other, and there is no need to constantly recall and correct each box to completely dry the solution. Also eliminated the deformation of the boxes, and all of them are exhibited with a wall.
You can make sharpening around the edges so that it is convenient exhibit the horizontal pattern.
I hope dear friends the article was interesting for you, and this device will help you facilitate and speed up the installation.
Who has any opinions? Maybe someone has been using this design or there are opinions to improve it. Let's share your experience.
Installation mounting boxes, or approach, are an effective solution for reliable and aesthetic installation of sockets, switches, and other elements of a home power grid. Not only long service life of the internal electrical system depends on the quality of fixing the installation boxes, but also the safety of your family. The following recommendations will help you perform high-quality and reliable installation of data of items.
Installation of submersors is made upon completion (the geometry of the walls must be finally established). The surveys of the nests (holes) under the mounting boxes are performed at the stage under the electrical wiring, while the element layout diagram must already be applied to the surface of the walls.
IMPORTANT: It is advisable to install conversion after cutting the strokes, since the mechanical effect on the box after it is fixed (cutting the channel for the wire) can seriously disrupt the reliability of its consolidation.
For group placement of elements, use special mounting boxes for several modules (mechanisms), or boxes with fixators for group accommodation.
Since the schematic marking of the position of the elements of the electrical network is already applied to the walls (see) - only correctly place the centers of future installation holes, since the positioning of the crown in all cases is performed using a centering drill.
Mounting boxes, very often have a small depression in the center of the bottom, or bulge (due to technological features manufacture of plastic housing). Using awl, pinched the housing in this place (in the center of the bottom).
In our example, you need to install two plastic electrical circular for the subsequent placement of the group of two socket modules. Collect a group by connecting the desired number of boxes.
Position the electrical circuit in the marked zone and align them using a small one. Then, with a sewn, mark the centers of the installation holes.
Using a level, swipe the control horizontal axis through the marked centers, if necessary, adjust their position. The central axis will still need later - for accurate positioning of boxes in niche.
The technique of performing holes for the installation of electrocoroba differs, depending on the type of wall base finish. For standard conversion (64 mm diameter and a depth of 40 mm), crowns with a diameter of 68 mm and a long working part of 60 mm are used. The gap between the edge of the installation niche and the box housing is necessary for reliable fixation of the peavering with a layer of plaster mixture.
Important: The drilling of the installation holes is performed exclusively in unpacking mode. The use of perforations can output tool and snap.
Installation in Puzzle Plates
For drilling holes in puzzle (gypsumless) plates apply crowns with carbide-tungsten spraying.
Secure the guide drill or boring in the crown. Shanks such crowns are usually made in the form of a hexagon. Install the crown into a drill or screwdriver and securely secure it with the key or self-moving cartridge. When using perforators (which are most often equipped with SDS Plus cartridges), it is necessary to use an adapter or replaceable self-apparatus cartridge.
Install the core corrows centering drill to the opening center placed earlier, after which, drill its outline in accordance with the depth of the used conversion. To accurately comply with the desired depth of depth - put risks on the housing, or stir up a small strip of painting tape.
The central holes can be previously drilled to the desired depth of the conventional drill or a brown, with a diameter of 6-8 mm and, after that, begin drilling the main contour of the socket with a crown.
Do not forget that the depth of the installation niche should be slightly more than the depth of the conversion (about 5 mm) - for its convenient positioning. If you need to switch the conductive lines directly in the installation box housing - the mounting boxes of a depth of 60 mm should be applied. Depth of the installation socket (hole), in this case, will also increase.
Important: When performing holes, consider the wall thickness, as well as the location of the electrical system from its opposite side.
If necessary (for the execution of group installation of boxes), drill the remaining holes of the group. After all the holes are made, with a hammer and chisel, or a perforator equipped with a spatula, carefully split and dismantle the remnants of the material inside the cooler of the niche contour, as well as the corners separating the mounting holes so that the edges of the niche are straight and smooth. Throw the bottom of the installation niches.
Remove fragments and dust with a hole, with a small brush or a construction vacuum cleaner.
Mounting into a tree, fane, chipboard and plasterboard
The drilling of the holes is performed in a similar way, but using gear crowns. HCL sheets can also be drilled with a corbid-tungsten spraying crown.
Installation in concrete and brick
The greatest difficulty is the drill of the installation nests in brick and concrete Walls. Used high-quality carbide gear crowns (for bricks), as well as diamond spraying crowns (for concrete).
With the help of high-quality crowns, you can perform direct drilling of concrete and bricks. However, such a snap is very expensive. In order to facilitate the execution of work with the help of medium quality equipment, extinguishing its service life, the following method of drilling is applied:
Preloading the centers of the installation holes, drill them to the desired depth, using a perforator equipped with a carbide brown (used drilling mode with a blow).
Using a crown with an installed centering drill, check the contour of the future hole, crawling the wall to a small depth (in drilling mode without impact).
Important: Working with perforators, take into account the configuration and diameter of the shank crown. Protective carbide crowns are usually produced with a SDS Plus shank (suitable for the cartridges of most perforators). To use crowns with hexagon shanks, a cam or adapter tool will be required.
Using a drill, drill several holes on the contour of the installation niches. As a rule, there are enough 8 holes if the material is too solid - you can use 12 holes.
With group installation of boxes, first, with the help of a crown, you should schedule the contour of each of the future holes, and then drill additional holes for each contour.
After all the holes are made using the crown, drill the nests to desired depth. Then, with a hammer and chisel, or a perforator with a spatula, dismantle the entire material inside the circuit of the installation niche, align its edges and the bottom. If you have completed a sufficiently large number of holes on the contour - the sample of the material from the niche can be done immediately, without the use of the crown, which, in this case, is used, in fact, only for circuit marking.
Remove the material fragments inside the niche contour and can be unreleased by the installation area.
Before fixing, it is necessary to brand the installation socket and give it to completely dry (see the instruction).
In the mounting boxes it is necessary to remove the plugs in the cable entry places. In order to, at the fixation of the box, the gypsum mixture is not squeezed through the hole for the wire - it can be sealed from the outside by painting scotch.
Important: When using groups, in some cases, it is necessary to additionally remove the side plugs - to provide wire laying in the group's fixture housing.
Fixation in monolithic walls
Fixing installation mounting boxes in monolithic walls (blocks, brick, concrete, etc.), most often, is performed using a plaster mixture or alabaster.
Prepare a small portion of the mixture. It is better to prepare a smaller amount of material than throw it. If the amount of the mixture is not enough for the complete sealing of all cavities and leveling the surface - the final seal can be produced at the embroidery stage. Material should be prepared in the maximum thick consistency resembling plasticine.
Apply a mixture with a layer with a thickness of about 5-7 mm on the edge and bottom of the installation socket.
Install the box or the assembled group in the installation niche. Remove the extruded excess mixtures. Using the segment of the rule or construction level, we climb the mounting boxes in a niche flush with the surface of the walls. Align the box horizontally using the central axial line, carried out at the markup stage.
Little spatula make all the cavities and scatter the plaster material.
After the layer hardens a slightly - repeat the alignment, considering all excess solutions from the wall surface - the solution should remain only within the installation niche. Be sure to remove the solution from the slots of the fastening bolts using a knife or sewn.
Carefully cut and remove the scotch, clean the case of the cable input to the case of the peavernacle (at the shoes) from the solution.
Important: Installation boxes should be located strictly in the plane of the walls. They can be slightly drowning in a niche, but in no case do not act beyond its limits, otherwise they will have to cut their edges.
If you need to perform additional fixation of the mounting boxes, so that their edges do not protrude from the niche for the wall plane (in the case of setting groups of three or more elements) - use the segments of the rails, fixed to the wall using self-screwing screws.
After a complete drying of the mixture, you can proceed to the installation of the cable and sealing the stroke.
Fixation in sheet materials
To fasten on sheet materials (plywood, GKL, chipboard, etc.) assembly boxes with special side clips.
They are installed in a niche, after which, the clamp screws are tightened with a screwdriver. At the same time, the clamp is fixed with back side sheet material.
After performing fixation, the emptiness in the niche is filled with a plastering mixture. To prevent the deformation cracking of the external coating, the plaster layer with a painting plastic grid should be reinforced.
Podlet - plastic glass, which is inwarded with a socket or switch. Installation of pickling is a rather lightweight process, the technology of which depends on the material from which the walls are made. Learn about the methods of mounting the opposition to your own hands and get valuable advice from specialists in brief description each of them.
The main rule high-quality mount Outmeal in the brick wall is a responsible and accurate approach to this process. Installation of pickling is performed at several stages:
Starting work on the installation of conversion should be prepared with the preparation of materials and tools, such as:
Instructions for the installation of conversion in the brick wall do it yourself:
1. Make a drawing of the preliminary location of the submersion in the room. According to the data obtained, make marking on the wall.
2. Prepare a perforator with a special nozzle, with a diameter of 0.6 cm. Plan a drilling place and start this process. The crown should be centered on the brick, thus simplifies the workflow.
3. Do not press on the perforator, work on the impact mode in combination with drilling. From the prepared hole, remove the central part, in the presence of several submersionals in the same plane, remove the jumpers between them.
4. To remove dust, use the usual or construction vacuum cleaner. After that, handle the hole with the soil. After complete drying, the primer continue work.
5. Podrotimals are installed in the opening freely. After that, fill the opening of a previously prepared composition based on plaster, evenly smearing the wall to them. Install the peaver, press into the hole, excess the mixture remove the spatula. Align the instrument in the ratio with the level, after an hour, check the quality of installation.
Installation of peasants in the brick wall price is determined by the amount of work, the type of submergence and complexity of work.
Severe two types of submersors:
The first are made of metal, differ in the presence of steel stops, are not securely fixed on the wall and easily fall out of it. It is recommended to use to install outlets in wooden buildings. In other cases, install new plastic peasants - they are well held in the wall, due to the solution that are fixed.
In the process of installation, the punching wall will need a perforator on which a special crown is present, as well as victorious drills and teeth. The diameter of the standard plastic peavercraft is 6.8 cm. Build a hole of a slightly larger diameter so that the convergence can easily be placed in it.
Please note that plastic submersors are used for mounting only in concrete or brick walls. If you need to replace the old rosette to a new one, first de-energize the room and dismantle the old outlet.
For these purposes, a screwdriver is used. Remove the lid and disconnect the screws on the wires. Remove the old outlet, remove the old basis that is held on the dowels.
This is if the old socket was outdoor. Install the crown into the perforator and drill the hole for the opposite. Its depth should not exceed five centimeters. Pay concrete and garbage with a vacuum cleaner, and with the help of a hammer and chisel, correct the shape of the hole. Build the entrance to the feed wires, connect them to the opposite. Build a plug from the installation of the wire.
Type in a spacker hot water And moisten the hole. Connect the gypsum and putty, knead the solution, apply it in the opening. Align and fix the recovery in the ratio with the level additionally fix it with it. Wait for its complete drying and only after that set the outlet. Installation of peasants in a concrete wall is a rather lightweight process, to perform which it is enough to study all technological moments associated with the correct drilling of the hole in the wall.
On plasterboard walls install special submersionists. The principle of fixing this device is based on special paws installed on the side or behind. The front part of the part is distinguished by the presence of four screws, twice as large as concrete.
Two outer screws fix the device and a socket or switch. The remaining screws are slightly recessed in the mechanism, they perform the functions of fixing the frame. The screws are responsible for the paws on the opposite, when they are rotated, they fix the device in the desired position.
Turning a screw with a screwdriver, the paw begins to move and fasten the pealed on the wall. The rear of the device is distinguished by the presence of special holes, blanks for wires. Cut one of them and install the cable. Try to do so that the wire goes into the opposition from behind. Thus, the process of installing sockets or switches is significantly facilitated. For cutting holes, use the stationery knife.
Instructions for the installation of conversion on the wall of plasterboard:
1. Prepare a roulette and make measurements at the location of the socket.
2. In the process of performing these actions, follow these standards:
3. Build a hole in the drywall. For these purposes, there are different ways:
The crown is mounted on a screwdriver or on the electric drill.
There are situations where the hole in the wall is ready and the previously derived wire sticks out of it. In this case, first in the submersion, the hole is cut onto the wire, and then fixed on the wall.
One pair of screws is fixed to the wall on the wall, and the second - adjusts the paws, which also hold this device. When the peavering is slightly drawn into the hole, loosen the screws slightly and check the fixation quality. Next, the process of installing switches and sockets.
Aluminum wire that comes out of the conversion is connected to the outlet. However, with its insufficient length, the intermediate terminal bar performs the function of the conductor. Choose black wires that have contact paste. They are perfectly connected to aluminum and copper elements.
Single-core hard wire should have a current and high strength. Terminals are placed on the bottom of the opposite. Length copper wires should not exceed 1.5 cm.
Connect terminals with wires, fix the outlet. Relobone fixation of sockets check with a level. A screwdriver will be required to install screws. Be sure to make the room, before performing work.
Note that the outlets are installed after the finishing finish.
Installation of any conversion begins with the construction of the hole. To fix the device in the wall, a solution based on alabaster or gypsum is used. It is distinguished by three ways to create holes for submerged:
1. Using a crown, a diameter of 7 cm. This part is distinguished by the presence of teeth, which are easy to pass through the wall. The crown is mounted on a drill or perforator. In order to avoid damage to the socket, take the wire from it to the side and de-energize the room in which work is carried out. Fully climb the crown into the wall. To drill the central hole, use the drills based on winning. In order to correct the size of the opening and make it more accurately use the chisel.
2. The second method implies the use of a shock drill or a perforator. In this case, the peavering is mounted on the wall and outlines its contours. With the help of a winning drill, over the contour of the peavercraft perform drilling. With the help of a chisel with a hammer, remove the internal filling of the hole.
3. Creating a hole with a grinder - this method is relevant if you have no drings in the house, no perforator. Using the grinder, the hole in the concrete is cut, along the previously scheduled contour. Special accuracy is given to the sections on which the wire is located. The depth of the circle should be less than the diameter of the conversion, bring it to the desired chisel.
The next step is just implies the fitting of the hole under the opposition. Podlet should be freely entering the hole. In the inner part of the peavercraft will be installed a gypsum solution that performs the fixation function.
Prepare a gypsum-based solution for this:
Place the gypsum into the container, gradually stirring it add water. Prepare a solution in small portions, as its shelf life does not exceed 7 minutes. Locate the subtle with this solution. Verify the solution into the hole, install the conversion and check it with the level level. Note that the screws should be located in horizontal by the attitude towards semi.
After setting the solution, continue to work. Place the gypsum into the side parts that are not filled with a solution. Deliver around the opposition. After drying the solution, remove the surplus.
Use the butterfly to connect each other two submerscribes. This is an additional connection element. With it, they record several submersors. Double and triple submersors are installed in the same way as single. The main requirement is the evenness and horizontal of the propellers.
Installation of converted video:
In this article we will analyze in detail how to install podrottoron concrete. Having a competently outlined instruction, complemented detailed photos And the comments of a specialist, the decision of this issue will not be any difficulties for you. It is the foundation of mounting
Elements of wiring, such as sockets, switches, dimmers, and so on, so the quality of its installation needs to be paid special attention.
Basically, all the submersions are divided into two main groups:
In this article, we will analyze in detail how the submersors in concrete are mounted.
Before installing the conversion, it is necessary to mark the location of the future socket or switch, as the installation coordinates are provided for each installation element.
Some standards that are often used by electricians are presented in the list below:
However, it is worth noting that these standards are not fundamental and you can edit them as you like, in your taste and discretion.
Let's start the installation. Measure the required distance from the floor to the planned switch or socket. If there is no clean floor yet, we also reverse +5 centimeters, on the screed and laminate (linoleum).
For switch, you can apply the technique of measuring hand. Go to the place of the planned installation, attach the hand lowered down, will send a convenient position. This method allows you to individually fit the switch specifically for you. If several people use the switch, you can take the middle length of the hand.
Next, measure the required distance from the wall to the opposite. If you plan to install a switch near the door, then measure the desired distance from its edge, it is optimal to be 15-18 centimeters from the edge of the arch of the passage without taking into account the door frame.
Now, mark all the sizes with a pencil on the wall.
Marking is made.
All connotes on concrete are mounted into the wall for the means of alabaste or gypsum solution, but the pretender should be installed to make a hole in which it will be installed. There are many ways that you can make it. We will look at the three most simple and efficient.
The main device for the manufacture of holes under the conversion of concrete is the crown on concrete and brick, with a diameter of 70 millimeters.
The standard diameter of the peavercraft is 67 millimeters, some manufacturers also occur the diameter of 68 mm.
Fig. Crown for picklers on concrete
On the diameter of the cylinder, the crown for conversion on concrete has a winned teeth with which it cuts the circle, in the middle for the centering there is a winning drill. The crown is mounted on a perforator or electric drill and by means of rotation or rotation with a blow, a hole is made.
We take the wire to the side so as not to damage it when drilling and make a hole.
The crown must be completely drowned into the wall.
To facilitate the drilling process, it is possible to first, in the center of the markup of the future conversion, drill the centering hole by the usual winning drill, in which case the crown will be much easier to cut through the wall material.
I pull out the crown and bring the resulting hole to the desired depth. This can be done with a shock bits on a perforator or chisel and a hammer.
We looked at the first version of the manufacture of the hole for the conversion, in which the crown was applied to the concrete. Consider the following method.
In order to take advantage of this method, the first thing is necessary to outlide the opposition. We apply it to the wall and describe a pencil.
Then we enhance the perimeter in a circle. The more denser and deeper the holes will be intense, the easier it will then be cleaning the hole from the wall elements.
Now, it remains behind a hammer and chisel or a perforator with a shock bat. I bring a hole to the required size.
This method is the fastest of all of all above, but also the dusty. Explain its meaning, I think it is not particularly necessary. It is particularly suitable, for example, when the installation of conversion in the concrete wall is required.
The process of fulfillment is simple, it means that Bulgarian (EMS), and drove.
We cut all the marked lines: a central cross and a square around the perimeter of the outlined peavern. Carefully with wire.
After everything is cut, knock out a chisel or a bit of square from the hole and bring it to the desired depth. As a rule, the depth of the circle is less than the depth of conversion, so using this method, be prepared to knock a little.
After the manufacture of the holes, we check how the opposition in it enters it. Since the diameter of the conversion less than the diameter of the crown with the width of the problems will not be, but in depth you need to look.
The hole must be brought to such a depth so that the peavern is a little falling into it, approximately 4-5 millimeters. This stock is necessary because inside the hole in addition to the very peavernacle, a solution of fixation (gypsum, alabaster) will be laid, and some place will be necessary for bending the wires included in the pealation.
To facilitate the stages of work following after the installation of the opposition, I recommend, from the edges of the made hole cut the edge. This action can be performed using a knife. At the expense of the manipulations produced by us, the peavern is imputed to the hole along with the outer skirt, which will allow you to install it in the wall. This installation feature will allow you to perform the perfect installation of a socket or switch as soon as possible by its metal assembly, and consequently the plastic decorative frame to the wall. As a rule, a non-pecked rose conversion skirt can give a gap of the rosette frame from the wall of about 1-2 mm.
Now, you need to start the wire into the opposition, for this we make a small stroke for it in the upper part of the hole. You can make a stroke using a chisel and a hammer or a perforator with a shock bat. Soft Material Walls can be chosen even by the chisel. In our example it is it.
Shtroba is ready.
The wire should easily fit without interfering with peasants.
Now, turn the opposite. At its back, we see specially prepared slits for the wire.
Select the desired and cut with a knife. It is very desirable to start the wire from the back of the opposition, it will greatly facilitate the subsequent installation of the socket or switch and will save the wire from damage.
Hole manufactured.
We dress the penetper on the wire and insert it into the hole.
There should be nothing to interfere and remind you, the reserve should remain in a depth of 2-3 millimeters for a fixing solution.
Everything is suitable, everyone checked. I clean the hole from the garbage and dust and go to the preparation of a gypsum solution.
For the preparation of the solution, we will need a container for stirring.
For our purposes, you can use:
We emballon a small amount of gypsum into the container.
There should be a homogeneous creamy mixture of medium density.
The resulting solution has a very short time to use, literally arrested 2-3 minutes. The solution will start very quickly, and in 5 minutes it will be already unsuitable for work.
With the help of the resulting solution, we fix the peavering in the hole. Before making a mounting, the hole must be well mixed with water. Water serves as a primer and flushes fine dust. We wait until the water is absorbed 2-3 minutes.
We dress the penetper on the wire and insert it into the hole. The solution should be good to cover the rear wall of the peavercraft squeezing out of the slots of the holes.
Align it so that the screws would be located horizontally semi, and the glass itself turned out to be flush with a wall or 1-1.5 mm deeper. Check installation at a depth. You can attach a level to a flat side to the wall diagonally diagonally. The most important thing is that it does not stick together, otherwise there will be a borger, and therefore there will later have problems installing a socket or switch.
The main fixation is made, therefore the glass of peavern is no longer moving, otherwise the solution does not capture and the peavern is not fixed.
Now, we make an additional fixation laying the solution into the side gaps between the wall and the opposite. It is necessary not to just deceive the solution around, but it is to lay it into the gaps.
But now, you can deceive around.
Podrotimets installed.
We are waiting for a complete drying and only then remove the excess solution that fell inside the opposition. Dry it is well separated from plastics.
I want to note that the installation of converters into the concrete wall is made similarly to the example considered. The only difficulty here, as a rule, is the manufacture of a hole in the concrete, as suggested above, it is better to do it with a grinder (USM), method 3.
The next step is and, to familiarize yourself with the installation instructions on our website in the relevant articles.
If you are interested in more detailed description Connections and installations various elements Wiring (sockets with grounding and without, different switches, including illumination, chandeliers, lamp, exhaust fan of the bathroom) you will be interested.
To install two sockets in the same frame requires the installation of two conversion. Consider in detail how it is done. this species Installation.
Docking between themselves is performed using a connector (butterfly).
From the side of the pickles there are special grooves in which they are inserted.
Thus, you can collect the garland out of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and so on the opposite.
For our example, we need only two. We make markup. Measure the distance from the floor.
Using the level at the desired height, we carry out a flat horizontal strip.
Now, with one of the three methods presented above, we make two holes of the hole.
The difference from the installation of single pickle is that after the manufacture of the holes need to make the connection of two holes between themselves. This is done in order to fit the connector that the connector is fitting two peasants. Ideally cut through these connections with a grinder.
After the manufacture of the holes, as well as in the example of the installation of single conversion, we lower in one of the two obtained holes in the wire strobe.
The rest of the installation is carried out similarly to single submersion.
The last moment on which it is worth paying attention to separately, is a strict approach to putting them horizontally when fixing by plaster. It is necessary to plant on the gypsum solution only with the level, the more the number of submersors in the chain, the stricter of this requirement.
The installation of various electrical wiring elements is as described in the most detailed as possible.
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