Frame structures require insulation, especially if this applies to structures such as a bath with a steam room or a sauna. Since their direct functional purpose includes maintaining a high temperature for a long time, then design features must meet these requirements.
Thorough warming of a bath or sauna eliminates heat loss in the room, helps to maintain a high temperature for a long time.
Based on practical observations, insulated structures heat up and warm up faster and cool down more slowly. These parameters save money on fuel, which pays for the costs of the work performed on the organization of vapor barrier and insulation.
Correctly executed waterproofing prevents increased negative impact moisture on the wood and frame bath will remain in its original state for a long time.
The material for waterproofing should be selected with a high threshold for resistance to high temperatures. Such materials include:
Metallic foil - creates the effect of a thermos, combines the functions of an insulation and a reflector, does not let water through.
When combining several types of hydro insulating materials and the absence of joints, a high-quality vapor barrier and protection against premature decay of wood is obtained when insulating a frame bath. Heat-resistant silicone sealants are used to weld the resulting seams.
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When choosing heaters, one should focus on their behavior when exposed to high temperature and high humidity, and not on thermal insulation characteristics. This is due to the fact that when the bath or steam room warms up, substances harmful to health will be released.
The following materials are currently on the market:
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Installation of the insulation layer is carried out according to the following scheme:
If foam or a similar insulation is used in one layer, then the joints must be foamed polyurethane foam... When laying the insulation in several rows, it is necessary to ensure that the seams of the layers do not coincide. When using a sawdust mixture, it must be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the ceiling, filling all existing cavities.
What to do with the stove when insulating a frame bath. An additional brick fire shield must be laid out between the oven and the wall. This measure will protect the insulation and finish from heat and possible damage. In this section of the wall, asbestos slabs will be the best insulation. As a decoration, you can use plaster products, which can be glued with heat-resistant glue or mortar.
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This is the most important and costly step in the process of warming a bath. In those parts of the bath where washing is not provided, you can do only with expanded clay bedding, insulation and a double layer of waterproofing. But this is not a very suitable option, since the situations are different. Open access to water and the absence of stacks, even in such rooms, can lead to premature decay of the wooden parts of the floor.
The best option is to add to this structure on top of the waterproofing concrete screed and on it organize a slope for the water drain. In dry rooms, a bath is built on top of a concrete screed, and then boards are laid. In direct wash rooms, concrete screeds can be used for floor tiles and rubber bath mats.
You can also arrange a wooden floor, but the planks are laid with small gaps so that water flows freely to the stack and does not linger on the surface. For convenience, when walking, solid or cellular rubber mats are laid on the floor.
Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside and outside
Warming a bath from the inside with your own hands, as well as outside the room, is a complex process that requires a lot of time and effort. Insulation of such a structure is carried out depending on the type of building, type of material and the planned duration of operation. It must be said that today a wide range of heaters is presented on the building materials market, so you can choose the appropriate material for a specific building. In order to insulate the bath, there are several methods and technologies for the walls of the house outside and inside.
The stage of insulation can be attributed to the category of more important, since it will directly depend on whether the room will be able to perform its main function. In the bath room, the temperature should be kept for a long time, and heated up quickly. To make this possible, it is necessary to carry out high-quality insulation work. Thermal insulation should be installed only after the completion of construction and before finishing work. When insulating a bath, unlike at home, the walls must be insulated both outside and inside the premises. Knowing all the features of this process, you can insulate the bath with your own hands without the help of specialists.
In order to understand how to insulate a bath from the inside with your own hands, you must first decide on the material for this process. At the moment, a fairly impressive assortment of heaters is presented on the building materials market. Modern materials for thermal insulation are designed for use in the insulation of any buildings, including baths. It is actually not difficult to select a heater, it all depends on preferences and possibilities. To organize high-quality thermal insulation, mineral wool, foam or natural materials can be used, which are usually processed. special means... The main thing is that the selected material meets the following qualities:
In addition to the above list, sauna heaters should also be as resistant to various kinds of deformations as possible. They should not be exposed to mold, mildew and other pests. Correctly performed insulation is a guarantor of the durability of the structure and the constant preservation of heat inside the bath.
A bathhouse is a building that has only one functional purpose - health promotion. In view of this, the question of the choice of materials is one of the most important. Insulation materials used should not contain harmful impurities. Their only property should be the ability to retain heat inside the rooms and keep it for a long time. In this regard, it is necessary that heaters be resistant to high temperatures, during which they would not emit unpleasant odors and toxins.
There are several types of insulation that can be used to insulate a bath:
Do-it-yourself bath insulation outside is done depending on what material it is built from. When finishing a brick, wooden, frame bath, the technology of installation of insulation, as well as its appearance, can differ significantly. Insulation depending on the type of building.
Layout of mineral wool.
Now let's look at materials that are great for outdoor thermal insulation of baths. These include products created on the basis of 100% natural fibers: wool felt, moss, hemp, linen tow. Such materials for caulking are environmentally friendly, they are easily compacted in the process of work, and provide excellent air exchange.
Quite often, red moss is used for log cabins, which is not subject to decay. As a rule, the length of its fibers is 15-30 cm, which is very convenient. Moss called cuckoo flax and sphagnum are also used. All these materials are available and cheap: a forty-kilogram bag of such building moss will cost only three hundred rubles.
It is popular for warming baths and jute, which is used for warming crowns, for caulking the entire structure. For log cabins, jute felt, felt from a mixture of flax and jute, flax wool are also suitable. These materials are elastic dense strips that are easy to fit and completely cover the seams between the logs.
Their cost is also low: a jute cloth with a length of up to 20 meters costs about 100 rubles, a roll of flax will cost 520-750 rubles.
Important! The process of warming (caulking) is carried out at the stage of assembling a wooden frame, the grooves and gaps are warmed after the completion of construction work on the roof. This process is carried out at least twice, with the second time - a year after the construction of the bath.
Layer diagram for warming a wooden bath.
For external insulation of brick and concrete buildings, mineral insulation is used, which are soft slabs or mineral wool mats.
Such plates have in their structure flexible and thin fibers from mineral melts. All wool is divided into stone and slag, a similar classification depends on the material of manufacture.
The main advantages mineral insulation are:
In addition to mineral wool, glass wool is also used, which is distinguished by excellent thermal insulation properties, strength, and elasticity.
Among the products based on plastics, which are suitable for external insulation of baths, it is possible to distinguish foam and cellular (foam), porous, honeycomb (honeycomb). Most often, polystyrene foam is used, which is distinguished by its strength, density, and low thermal conductivity.
Of modern materials for warming baths, foam glass can also be noted, which, despite the rather high cost (up to ten thousand rubles), is one of the the best materials... This insulation absorbs sounds, is easy to process, non-flammable, waterproof, very strong and durable.
There are two ways to insulate a frame bath:
The classic cake for warming a frame bath is made from the inside of the building.
Classic insulation consists of a pie: vapor barrier, insulation, vapor barrier, interior decoration.
Steam - waterproofing is performed from the inside of the bath after boards or panels of sawdust are fixed on the outside. The vapor barrier is laid directly on them and the frame beam. It is necessary to mount the material with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The joints are glued with tape. You can attach the material directly to the tree with a construction stapler.
The insulation is placed in the formed cells. The standard thickness of the insulation is 50 mm and 100 mm. If the bath will be used all year round, then take 100 mm and fit in two layers. This layer will be enough to keep the steam room warm in winter temperatures down to -35 ° C. For southern regions, one layer of 100 mm is sufficient.
The bathhouse, used only in summer seasons, does not require thorough insulation, so it is enough to lay 1-2 layers of 50 mm.
When installing, the joints should be as small as possible, and in places where the insulation does not fit, you need to protect it with polyurethane foam. The second layer of slabs is laid on the first so that the joints of the upper one do not coincide with the lower ones. You can fix the insulation with special fungus screws. They have a wide head that will securely attach the material to the wall. If foam is chosen as insulation, then it can be glued to the wall with ordinary tile glue.
The next layer is again the vapor barrier. Many people miss this layer, but it is necessary when using a material that absorbs water, such as ecowool.
Foil-clad membrane material is used as waterproofing. It is laid with foil to the steam room, the joints are sealed with foil tape. Waterproofing with such a material will not only play a protective function against moisture, but also help keep heat in the steam room, reflecting it.
Polyfoam is attached to the facade of the bath using an adhesive composition.
External insulation is optional. For a frame bath, it is better to make a ventilated facade, so condensation will not accumulate under the facade cladding and the walls will last longer. Usually, the facade of the bath is insulated with foam.
Initially, a lathing is made on the walls from metal profiles or a bar of 40x40 mm. Before installation, the timber is covered with an antiseptic or liquid glass, which penetrates deep into the tree and protects it from various harmful effects.
The step of the lathing depends on the width of the insulation sheet. If the foam is 60 cm wide, then the step must correspond to it. You can fix the foam to the walls with special screws or glue. The material is lightweight and can be glued alone.
If the insulation of the facade is additional, then it is not necessary to take too thick insulation. It is not necessary to mount the vapor barrier on the foam, it will repel water, and air does not penetrate through the material. A counter-lathing is attached to the lathing and finishing is mounted, for example siding or timber imitation panels.
Before insulation, the outer skin of the frame and the structure itself are covered with antiseptics. If this is not done, then any ingress of moisture will be critical for the bath.
The design of the insulation resembles a multi-layer cake, from which you should not exclude the layers-stages from which. It is not difficult to insulate a frame bath with your own hands, but it is laborious. Not everyone is able to do the finishing of the entire structure with their own hands, so you can contact the specialists. On average, insulating a frame bath in Russia costs from 200 rubles / m². In terms of the size of the walls, the service is not cheap. It's cheaper to do everything yourself, but you can work gradually.
The answer to this question depends on what should be better for: even after caulking, your bath is so cold that no matter how much swamp it is, it does not heat up to the required degree, or do you want to steam in it for two days? In the first case you need to look for the reason where the heat goes. Alternatively, insulation from the inside can help, although there is an opinion that wooden bath should not be insulated in this way at all. In the second case external insulation will help.
IMPORTANT! Whichever side you insulate the bath, there you lose control over the state of the wood, because it is hidden from view. It remains only to rely on the competent installation of insulation.
... The tree breathes, picks up and gives off moisture, therefore, when insulating, you need to keep the opportunity for its "breathing"
And this means great restrictions on the materials used.
The tree breathes, picks up and gives off moisture, therefore, when insulating, it is necessary to preserve the opportunity for its "breathing". And this means great restrictions on the materials used.
This method has two minuses, about which it is worth mentioning right away:
However, here is a diagram of the interior insulation pie:
Shown using the example of a foam block bath, but the principles are the same.
For more information on internal insulation, see the article: We do the insulation of a bath from the inside with our own hands: what and how, different baths and it is necessary to insulate in different ways.
External insulation of walls from a bar simultaneously performs the functions of wind and moisture protection:
External wall insulation (shown on the example of a block wall, but this way you can insulate any wall).
Insulation of a bath from a bar outside with mineral wool may be needed only, perhaps, if this bath is a living room. Well, or if the bathhouse is made of a very thin timber and is located in the Far North and is operated in severe frosts. Outside, the use of phenolic-impregnated mineral wool is permissible.
But still, as a rule, insulation of a bath from a bar outside is not required.
Insulation scheme
The result will depend on how we cope with this. Choice modern market extensive. There are insulation options for frame structures. In my opinion, it is not so important what you stopped at, in the end, the choice is influenced by the price and availability of this or that material in your area.
The main thing that it makes sense for you to pay attention to is that the selected material is light enough, and not only because it will be easier for you to work with it, if you do everything with your own hands, but above all because, after all, frame structures initially do not imply large loads. Same thermal insulation material for warming the bath, it is advisable to take fire-resistant and non-toxic (as far as possible)
For more information on materials for insulation (thermal insulation), see.
A light frame bath structure can be well insulated different ways... Warming options are available in price and labor intensity using both predominantly natural materials and purely synthetic ones. Let's dwell on some popular materials.
Relatively lightweight non-combustible material with excellent thermal insulation characteristics.
The thickness of such plates varies depending on the manufacturer. 15 cm blocks are considered optimal for thermal insulation.
TIP: Since in this case we are dealing with natural material, do not forget that it can be a favorable environment for the reproduction of various kinds of insects, so it is recommended to treat the reed blocks before use, for example, with a solution of ferrous sulfate.
Wood sawdust + gypsum in a certain ratio (10: 1) is also considered the best budget option for insulating a frame bath, because it has good thermal insulation qualities. Instead of gypsum, cement is often added to the mixture in approximately the same proportion. Both are important in this case as a binder.
Polymer-based blocks are represented by such familiar materials as expanded polystyrene (foam), polyurethane foam (PPU), etc. They are easy to use and therefore the most popular. So more often than not, when it comes to how to properly insulate the bath, not really steaming (I apologize for the pun), they choose polystyrene - as the easiest option. Having nothing against them, here I advise you to think carefully about fire safety. Polyfoam does not so much burn as it begins to release extremely harmful substances already in the first minutes of ignition, which can quickly lead to serious consequences. You can learn more about this here.
Insulation for a frame bath is best used in the form of mats.
If you choose the wrong insulation or put it in an insufficient layer, then the functionality of the steam room will be lost. Materials for warming a frame bath are natural and artificial. The bathhouse and synthetic insulation are incompatible, of course, the design will be cheap, but some may emit harmful vapors when heated. Natural include:
To artificial:
According to their shape, types are chosen for a frame bath: tiled or matte. A roll is also fine, but it will be more difficult to fit it into a frame cake. Any beginner can cut and lay insulation in the form of slabs or mats, it is enough to understand the technology and finish reading this article.
Wood fiber insulation is made from sawn timber waste.
The basis of the material is wood fibers, which are bonded with various synthetic fibers. It is non-allergenic and does not irritate the skin when styled. The material is made by recycling sawn timber. It is a misconception that such a heater is made from waste paper. Due to the ability to absorb moisture and also quickly give it away, the frame bath will breathe like a full-fledged wooden one. One of the brightest representatives of wood fiber insulation is ecowool, the price of which is from 120 rubles. / kg.
The main disadvantage is the ability to absorb moisture. If the hood in the bath is performed with errors, then the humidity can linger for a long time in the structure of the walls and they will begin to rot.
Basalt wool is made from mineral fibers by binding them with an adhesive. The main advantages are:
The main disadvantage of the material was discovered at the end of 2014. Previously, it was considered one of the most environmentally friendly materials. It turned out that the adhesive used for gluing basalt fibers can emit insignificant vapors of formaldehyde. Whether or not the reaction intensifies during the heating of the steam room, no studies have been carried out.
Linen mats began to be used not so long ago. The material is made from compressed flax fibers. There are no additives in the composition, for example, formalin. the material is completely environmentally friendly and is capable of absorbing - releasing moisture. And due to the dense pressing, the boards have a high ability to save heat.
The main disadvantage of the slabs is the insufficient test of time and rodents. Mice love to build nests in flax fiber and gnaw holes in the walls. Over time, the bath will lose its thermal insulation properties.
Glass wool emits fine fiberglass particles during operation. which are dangerous to human health.
Glass wool is made from glass fibers bonded with synthetic glue. It is difficult to work with the material with your own hands, since when the fibers get into the air, they settle on the skin and get into Airways... They can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.
Glass wool has no less advantages:
If the choice fell on glass wool, then all work on the insulation of the frame bath must be performed in protective clothing and a respirator.
Polyfoam can be used to insulate the walls of a frame bath.
Expanded polystyrene is made by foaming polystyrene. Moreover, the more and less air bubbles in the material, the higher its heat-insulating properties. One of the brightest representatives of polystyrene. It is possible to insulate the walls of a frame bath with polystyrene, but it is not recommended. Moreover, insulate the ceiling and the space around the chimneys. Expanded polystyrene has a high fire hazard. It ignites from any spark. If the structure is insulated with foam, then the cake must have protection. The material has a number of advantages:
Any of the listed materials is used to insulate a frame bath. The main thing is to complete the installation, observing all the rules.
Thermal protection of such buildings is reduced to the elimination of cracks. During the construction process, a special jute insulation is laid between the crowns, but over time the wood begins to dry out, cracks and gaps appear, which have to be regularly eliminated.
After the completion of the construction of the log house and the elimination of the shortcomings, the building must be kept under the roof for at least six months. During this time, it is advisable not to use the bath. The log house will sit down, the tree will dry up, and new cracks will appear, which should be caulked.
For this purpose, a special insulation made of flax and jute is used. Since jute retains heat excellently and does not burn, but tears easily, linen fibers are added to it, which eliminates this problem. Thin pieces of insulation are hammered into the cracks using a metal caulking blade and a hammer. The work is done carefully so that the building does not skew.
In addition, when choosing the best way to insulate the bath outside, you should pay attention to a special sealant - to fill the gaps, you just need to squeeze the mixture out of the syringe directly into the voids. ... Log cabin continues to shrink for two years
Experts advise during this period not to sheathe it with finishing materials so that there is access to the emerging cracks, which have to be periodically removed. To protect the insulation from various precipitation, you should cover the outside with a film, fixing it with slats.
A log house continues to shrink for two years. Experts advise during this period not to sheathe it with finishing materials, so that there is access to the emerging cracks, which have to be periodically removed. To protect the insulation from various precipitation, you should cover the outside with a film, fixing it with slats.
Finishing can be done two years after construction. Buildings made of logs are allowed to be sheathed with dies, clapboard, and besides this with a block house, imitation of a bar. First, a crate is installed on the walls. If it is wooden, then it must be treated with impregnations with antibacterial and fire-resistant properties, and then checked by the building level for compliance with horizontal and verticality.
A finishing material is attached to the crate, which is then coated with varnish or other protective agent. If metal guides were purchased, then they are fixed on special suspensions.
Insulation of a wooden bath from the outside is not performed, since the logs themselves retain heat well. They insulate the structure from the inside - usually a steam room and a washing room. But if you still want to insulate the building outside, then a steam or hydro barrier is placed on the material that is afraid of moisture, fixing it with slats, on which the finish is then mounted.
The technologies for insulating a log house and a brick bath are very similar.
Most craftsmen do not consider it necessary to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, paying attention only to the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why the bath should be insulated from the inside and what technologies exist for this.
Steam room insulation - photo
The diameter of a wooden crown in a log bath is most often 20 centimeters. If the caulking was done with high quality, then you will not need to insulate your bath from the inside at all. But there are still reasons why this is necessary:
The masters are sure that if it is enough to insulate the bath with high quality, then it will take 3 times less energy to heat it, and it will be possible to use a weaker stove.
Wall insulation will allow you to save on fuel in the future
The walls of the insulated bath are very similar in structure to a thermos (sometimes it is called the "cake" of insulation). After all, those who are going to really insulate the bath with high quality will need steam and waterproofing.
The walls of the insulated bath have the following structure: a pre-prepared wall, an obligatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier and, of course, decorative finishing.
If you choose the right quality material, then you can independently cope with the insulation of the bath from the inside very quickly. To insulate the bath, you will need material that will:
Since not all materials are suitable in terms of quality and properties for the internal insulation of a bath, most often experts use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a very reasonable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic boards that have a soft structure.
It should be remembered that when insulating walls, you should perform hydro and vapor barrier in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely related.
First of all, you should prepare the surface of the walls.
If you see any crevices or seams, then you should fill them with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend using a sealant. Once you are done, you should move on to the next step - waterproofing.
Note. If your bathhouse was made of a log house, then waterproofing immediately after construction is strictly prohibited. To begin with, you should wait until the shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.
Log wall insulation schemes
First of all, the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath should be protected from moisture. It is best to use polyethylene film or special foil.
The insulation technology itself using foil is simple. The following should be done:
first of all, it should be vertically attached to the wall of your bath wooden blocks(4 * 4 centimeters). It is to them that the foil will be attached. Make sure that all the bars are in the same plane, when working, use a laser level or pull the reference cord for convenience. If necessary, place thin wedges between the wall and the blocks. Fasten the bars with long self-tapping screws, pre-drilling holes for them in the wall and the bars themselves;
Laying insulation between sheathing bars
all kinds of joints must be insulated with aluminum construction tape;
Foil vapor barrier
and lastly, the facing board (lining) should be attached to the beams.
The photo shows the insulation, the lathing for the lining and the facing panels themselves
Note. All bars should be greased with a special antiseptic beforehand.
It is very important to make reliable vapor protection, mineral wool under the ceiling works in the most difficult conditions.
Ceiling insulation
Sheets can be laid on the rough ceiling (the optimal option from our point of view) or fixed against falling out with any metal slats, and to attach the finished lining, special 20 × 50 mm slats can be nailed.
Step 1. Nail the rough ceiling to the ceiling joists. To do this, you can take unedged boards of the second or third grade with a thickness of about 20 mm. Remember to remove the bark. Under the bark, wood pests will always appear over time, which will begin to damage not only the boards of the rough ceiling, but also all the wooden structures of the frame bath. The distance between the boards is 20 ÷ 25 cm, for fixing you can use ordinary nails or wood screws.
Rough ceiling device
Example of a rough ceiling
Step 2. Lay sheets of insulation in the free niches of the rough ceiling, carefully align them around the entire perimeter. First, you should put all the insulation from the side of the attic, then correct their position from the inside. Insert a knife or a hacksaw blade into the joints between the sheets and, moving them forward / backward, achieve a perfect fit of the insulation on all sides.
Laying mineral wool
Step 3. Take care of the vapor barrier. To do this, you can use aluminum foil, modern membrane materials or ordinary plastic wrap. All of these materials do a good job with the tasks at hand, although the price difference can be very significant.
Bath ceiling vapor barrier
Practical advice
Focus on sealing the joints of insulating materials. The overlap in these places is at least five centimeters, the joints should be glued with tape or special foil
Be very careful when working with foil - it breaks quickly. And any hole significantly reduces the effectiveness of the vapor barrier with all the negative consequences. The vapor barrier is fixed with a stapler, do not allow large sagging of the material. The distance between the finishing lining of the ceiling sheathing and the insulating material must be at least one centimeter.
On top of the vapor barrier, lathing slats are fixed for mounting the lining
Step 4. Nail about two centimeters thick slats to the ceiling beams, the lining will be attached to them.
Step 5. Check the position of the waterproofing and insulation, if everything is normal, then start finishing the ceiling. During the sheathing, additional work may occur if the stove chimney exits through the roof. How to finish a chimney?
The complex of works will depend on the material of manufacture and the type of chimney. Let's take a look at the four most common types of chimney.
Sandwich pipe. The most modern chimney, has built-in thermal insulation, is mounted together with a ceiling cut.
Ceiling walk-through unit
Ceiling walk-through unit, top view
Ordinary metal pipe. Most dangerous in terms of fire safety standards. During the insulation of ceilings, it is necessary to leave the distance between its walls and the nearest wooden elements at least twenty centimeters. The hole in the ceiling after insulation and installation of the chimney should be covered with a sheet of metal. Use a thin layer of rock wool or asbestos sheets to seal the gaps. The material is laid between the ceiling lining and the iron sheet and tightened tightly with self-tapping screws or nails.
Chimney passage through the combustible ceiling
Ordinary brick. As a rule, the thickness of the walls of such a chimney is 220 cm. Additional activities the insulation of wooden structures is the same as in the case of metal.
Passage of a straight brick chimney through the ceiling
Classic brick. Has a special thickening (fluff) in the place of the ceiling passage. Additional fire-prevention measures are not taken at the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling.
Flared brick chimney
The main functions that insulation should perform are:
Depending on the main building material (wood, brick, sandwich panels or foam blocks), the method of insulating the bath outside is chosen. How to insulate a bathhouse assembled from bricks or foam blocks? Laying a layer of insulation on top of brick or foam block walls is a prerequisite, which is due to the high coefficient of thermal conductivity of these materials. Otherwise, the bath will quickly cool down or you will have to lay walls 70 - 80 cm wide, which is completely unprofitable from an economic point of view.
It is easiest to insulate brick baths using a ventilated facade system.
Work production technology includes:
The external thermal insulation of the bath is made of bricks.
The main advantages of mineral wool include:
To insulate a brick bath using a ventilated facade, you must:
In the same way, you can insulate foam or aerated concrete baths. How to insulate a wood bath? Required:
Thermal insulation scheme for a bath made of wood.
Baths built from timber or logs are characterized by the formation of cracks over time as a result of the shrinkage of the crowns. Cold air enters the room through the cracks. Insulation of a wooden bath from the outside is carried out by caulking the spaces between the crowns.
Jute heaters are best suited for these works. Jute fibers have a very low thermal conductivity coefficient. In addition, he is not afraid of rotting processes in a humid environment. The disadvantage of jute is its low strength, therefore, materials are mainly used in which linen fibers are additionally introduced. This additive makes the insulation more elastic, durable and resilient. The most common materials for warming a wooden bath are linen and felt based on jute and flax.
They begin to insulate the wood bath even during construction. The work is carried out in the following sequence:
How to insulate a panel (frame) bath?
The principle of warming a frame bath.
The insulation of such a bath should be considered in more detail, because frame structures are not able to withstand heavy loads, unlike brick boxes and wooden log cabins. When choosing insulation for such buildings, it is necessary mainly to be guided by its low weight. Therefore, the best option would be to insulate the structure with foam.
This polymer material is very well suited for thermal insulation of frame structures from the outside due to its low thermal conductivity and fearless contact with water. The low weight of the foam plates allows them to be fixed without installing the frame (the foam is glued directly to the wall). Then the plates are covered with plaster or sheathed with facade materials. The main and probably the only drawback of polystyrene is its fragility.
Back to the table of contents
External insulation of bath buildings from a bar is made in the same way as in the case of a structure made of logs. The building must also settle down, since gaps also appear in it, which must be repaired.
As for the question of how to insulate a bath from a bar outside, the choice depends on the climatic features of the region, the thickness of the walls. This work is performed in the event that the thickness of the timber for a given type of climate is not enough to effectively retain heat.
Warming takes place as follows:
The bathhouse is sheathed outside with clapboard, siding, edged board, block house, metal profile and other materials. After finishing, wood trim is necessarily covered with a varnish for outdoor use, sometimes it is additionally painted before this, although many modern mixtures also have a slight tinting effect.
When siding was used as a finishing material, it becomes mandatory to arrange a ventilation gap between the sheathing and the insulation. To create the lathing, it is recommended to use guides, which can be purchased at the same place as the siding. They are attached to special suspensions.
Only six months later, you can complete this process with a hammer and caulk (special spatula), carefully sealing the ends of the fibers into the seam
True, synthetic sealants have also appeared for this purpose, but for a bath it is especially important to observe environmental safety in conditions of heating and evaporation. ...
When laying a bath, you can take measures to insulate the floors, especially if they are constructed of concrete. In this case, you will have to perform ground work for leveling, filling sand and expanded clay; pouring the base floor.
How to insulate the ceiling and walls of the bath? Warming is carried out from the inside and outside, but after the shrinkage process of the structure has been completed.
Measures for the insulation of windows and doors, external and internal cladding work to preserve the heat in the premises of the bath.
How to insulate a bathhouse from a log house (bar)? You should start with ceiling insulation, it is he who takes on the first wave of heat and steam. The heat-insulating layer should be significant (in the steam room - up to 15 cm) with a mandatory vapor barrier membrane: for the steam room it is foil, for other rooms - kraft paper or thick polyethylene. It is also enough to upholster the walls in the soap and dressing room from the inside with clapboard or wooden blocks made of hardwood (aspen, linden).
Algorithm for wall insulation in a wooden bath (for a steam room):
Algorithm for floor insulation according to the base screed:
First way:
Second way:
The first method is more suitable for the back rooms of the bath, the second - for the steam room.
Mounting metal oven to the bathhouse. You will read about this in our next article.
And here is an article about warming the ceiling in a bath on your own.
When choosing a suitable insulation for a bath, you should pay attention not only to the heat-insulating properties of the material in question, but also to the ability to withstand significant temperatures at a high level of humidity. ...
In addition, when calculating the insulation of a frame bath with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that heat-insulating materials for baths should not emit toxic substances when heated.
Some relaxation of the requirements for fire safety and environmental friendliness can be done only for those heaters that will be used for outdoor decoration.
In addition, when calculating the insulation of a frame bath with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that heat-insulating materials for baths should not emit toxic substances when heated... Some relaxation of the requirements for fire safety and environmental friendliness can be done only for those heaters that will be used for outdoor decoration.
In construction practice to improve the thermal insulation of baths, it is customary to use several types of materials.
Moreover, since inorganic substances have a very high melting point, the mineral wool boards formed with their use can successfully withstand even the most intense heating, without losing their performance. For the same reason, such plates do not collapse and do not lose their heat-saving properties from the inevitable high humidity for any bath.
Reed slabs... This natural material is attractive for its environmental friendliness, as well as good thermal insulation properties. The thickness of such slabs is 15 cm, which is very convenient when erecting frame walls.
Sawdust-gypsum mixture... This insulation is made by mixing 10 parts of carefully dried sawdust with 1 part of gypsum or cement. The main advantage of this option is low cost against the background of good thermal insulation.
Polyfoam, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam and other foamed synthetic materials... The advantages of foamed synthetics include the following:
However, all types of foamed synthetic insulation cannot be used on those elements of the bath structure, where exposure to high temperatures is likely. Therefore, they are used only for warming baths walls located at some distance from the stove (washing department, dressing room, rest room).
Video about warming a frame bath.
Properties of stones for a bath. You will read about this and much more about bath stones in our next article.
And this article tells how to insulate a bath from the inside.
Wall sections near the chimney and stove are a risk factor in a fire hazard and require an appropriate device. The wall through which the furnace tunnel passes, or the stove is in contact, must be made of bricks. The place of installation of the stove is equipped with two layers of felt, on which three layers of bricks are laid. No contact of the stove or chimney with wooden parts or insulation material is allowed. The distance from the stove to the nearest combustible structures should be at least 50 cm. It is recommended to build a brick case around the stove, which will reliably protect wooden structures and people from the heat of a metal stove.
How to insulate a bath from the outside, if it is not supposed to seal the joints, but to install a thermal insulating cladding? Consider the types of load-bearing walls:
Before the bath is insulated, a grammatical calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer is required
Of the two methods for selecting insulation relative to the structural material, it makes sense to use the dew point shift technique. What does this mean? A thermal insulator with a vapor permeability close to zero (for example, expanded polystyrene) is taken and glued to the rough wall. The inner insulation also contains a vapor-impermeable layer - a foil-clad infrared screen. It turns out that moisture condensing in the thickness of concrete or brick has nowhere to evaporate.
To avoid waterlogging, it is necessary to ensure that the dew point is located outside the rough wall - in expanded polystyrene. For this, it is required to increase the thickness of the outer insulation approximately to the value of the thermal resistance of the wall 4.0 - 5.0.
In central Russia, this corresponds to a thickness of 200 mm EPS boards.
Wall insulation scheme
The material will cost a decent amount, but the budget for the work will be less than when implementing the ventilated facade technology (with mineral wool, air gap and molded finish cladding). In addition, self-pasting walls with EPSP plates is much more affordable for a layman than any other methods. external thermal insulation... With everyday use of such a steam room, only the reflective screen and clapboard cladding should be left in the inner lining. For the mode of paired sessions 2-3 times a week, it makes sense to divide the estimated thickness of the insulation into 2 layers: 150 mm for the outer surface and 50 mm for the inner lining.
Choice finishing from the street side should be correlated only with the budget, the possibility of self-realization and personal aesthetic preferences. From the point of view of the work of the insulating sandwich physical properties this layer is absolutely unimportant. If you do not want to get involved with the plaster, you can decorate the bath with any relatively light slabs or panels that are moisture resistant. The main thing is not to use chemicals that can destroy polystyrene foam.
Thermal insulation of the bath outside with expanded polystyrene
How to sheathe a bathhouse built of cellular materials? For independent work, you should stop at the same expanded polystyrene.
The only difference with the previous version of the bath will be that the thermal calculation will require a smaller thickness of the EPSP layer (120 - 150 mm), all other things being equal - the climate, the thickness of the masonry and the given value of the heat transfer resistance of the wall sandwich.
This idea may seem strange, but a log house sometimes needs a "fur coat". Especially when it comes to re-equipping a bath with a change in the purpose of the object (for example, from personal to commercial). The only insulation, the vapor permeability of which is higher than that of wood, is mineral wool. However, the disadvantage of this venture is associated with the high labor intensity of the work. You will need:
Thermal insulation of a wooden bath outside
First of all, you should decide on the materials that are most often used for insulation. Insulation can be:
Important: remember that the bath is not just a house. There is high humidity, temperature fluctuations, steam condensate on the surface, so it is important to choose the right insulation material
Polyfoam is an irreplaceable thing, and it is especially often used in baths. The main reasons for this are:
Thermal insulation of a bath with polystyrene foam
The downside of foam as insulation is its fire hazard. Styrofoam burns well, so you need to be extremely careful when insulating the bath room. The second possible disadvantage can be considered the love of mice that make moves in foam and use this material to build their nests.
Mineral wool is considered the best heater for a bath, however, when using this heater, do not forget that it is afraid of moisture
Particular attention should be paid to vapor barrier and waterproofing. Read more about insulation with mineral wool here
Thermal insulation of a frame bath with mineral wool
Waterproofing prevents moisture from getting inside the insulation. Mineral wool deteriorates very quickly, if there is even a small gap in the waterproofing. The cotton wool absorbs water, the walls become wet and damp, the material cakes, and hollow spaces appear in the frame. There is no need to talk about a warm room in such a situation. Therefore, waterproofing must be laid with an overlap, with a margin of 15-20 cm, and glued with special tape. It is better to glue from the inside, since the adhesive of the adhesive tape can lose its properties under the influence of moisture.
To insulate the walls of the bath, it is better to take mats than rolled mineral wool. It is necessary to start the installation of the mats from the bottom.
When insulating with ecowool, an antiseptic and a fire retardant are added to it
Ecowool is rarely used to insulate walls, floors or the roof of a bathhouse. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, it is a very fire hazardous material, and secondly, like any natural materials, it is afraid of moisture. The use of ecowool is irrational.
We insulate a glass-wool frame bath in special clothing and a bandage
Glass wool - a good option for warming a bath. It has good thermal performance, is not afraid of fire and moisture, and mice do not like it. Its downside is that when insulating with your own hands, you will have to wear protective clothing, while if the vapor barrier is damaged, then glass wool particles can get on people, which is extremely unpleasant in the bath.
Liquid expanded polystyrene can also be used to insulate the walls of the bath, but it is better not to do this with your own hands. Protective clothing is required when handling liquid polystyrene foam. In addition, only a person with experience can apply it correctly and evenly.
With liquid insulation, a uniform layer must be created
How to insulate panel house, read here. Read about how to use styrofoam when insulating your home here.
Foil insulation is considered one of the the best heaters for the walls of the bath. How is it different from other materials? One side of this insulation is a layer of foil material. It reflects heat and returns it to the interior of the room. In this case, the basis of the insulation can be various materials:
Foil insulation in the bath is one of the best options
Insulation with a layer of foil creates an excellent barrier to heat and steam, as a result of which heat is retained in the steam room for a long time.
To insulate a frame bath with your own hands, it is important to take into account the features of the process and the correct choice of insulating materials. The last action has the following requirements:. resistance to high temperatures and humidity;
environmental Safety;
The optimal solution for a bath can be basalt wool... She combines incombustibility, good strength and insulating properties ... For the dressing room and recreation area, sheet polystyrene foam is used. Insulation efficiency is increased by combining heaters... It is also possible to use liquid polyurethane foam.
The thickness of the insulation depends on its type and the characteristics of the operation of the bath. If you intend to use the steam room only in the warm season (in the country), insulation of 5 cm will be enough for walls... With constant use, the layer thickness can reach 10-15 cm (depending on the climatic zone). For the ceiling, this figure increases to 20 cm.
The bath should be insulated during the construction stage.... After all, dense insulation will at the same time construction material... Experts recommend conducting anti-fungal and moisture-proof treatment all wooden structures at the same stage. It is also necessary to take care of the arrangement in a timely manner. hydro-, vapor barrier and reliable ventilation system.
In the modern construction market today is represented the widest selection of various heat-insulating materials, among which:
Organic:
The variety of materials presented, taking into account all their varieties and modifications, causes confusion at first, but upon closer examination it turns out that there is everything three main technologies for performing external thermal insulation buildings:
For outdoor insulation of a bath any of these methods are suitable. The differences will be determined only by the initial material of the walls, on which the method used will depend. If we consider only those methods and materials that can be done with minimal cost with our own hands, then the circle narrows even more.
For example, work on insulation with sprayed insulation: cellulose or polyurethane foam requires special expensive equipment and skills to manage it, therefore they are not suitable for independent execution. Some materials, such as foam glass or cork insulation, are quite expensive, especially for ancillary buildings.
How to insulate a brick bath? You will read about this in our next article.
And here is an article about the insulation of wooden baths.
Before starting work, you must definitely know how to properly insulate a frame bath in order to perform it efficiently. Regardless of which of the materials was chosen as a heater, when laying it in the cells of the frame, it is necessary to provide reliable vapor barrier (in more detail: "Vapor barrier of a bath - the choice of material and its installation").
If you do not cut off the insulation from the atmosphere of the bath with its high humidity, it will absorb water during the cooling process, which will certainly lead to the most undesirable consequences:
Thus, when a frame bath is made, the walls are insulated using high-quality vapor barrier.
It is undesirable to use roofing material, as in the process of heating it begins to smell unpleasant. When installing the vapor barrier, it must not be allowed that even the smallest gaps remain between the pieces of material. The tightness of the joints is ensured with the help of metallized adhesive tape, or by overlapping adjacent canvases.
After we insulate our building from the outside, we will not only help to reduce heat loss, but also protect the walls of the building from external factors. But before thinking about how to insulate the bath, we must choose the material that we need to thermally insulate the building. You must choose it depending on what material you have built the walls of the bath. If the walls of our building are made of bricks or foam blocks, they must be thermally insulated, since without additional thermal insulation such buildings will quickly cool down, which means that heating costs will increase.
The surest option to improve the thermal insulation of this building is to use the ventilated facade technology. In this case, a heat insulator will be attached to the walls of this building, if it is afraid of moisture, then it will need to be additionally insulated with a film. On top of the insulating layer, it will be necessary to fix finishing materials in the form of lining or siding
It is extremely important to insulate the bath so that a small space remains between the hotel materials and the insulation, which will provide ventilation. Usually mineral wool is now used as a heat insulator.
But for the reason that as a result of getting wet, it can lose its original properties, it will need to be insulated with a film.
A few words must be said about the features of these types of buildings. This method was first used in Finland, then the experience was adopted in America and over 60% of all buildings are built there using this technology. The buildings are light (losses for the construction of the foundation are much reduced), warm, comfortable and cheap. The term of construction of buildings from scratch to the end of the finishing work, with the correct organization, is no more than two weeks.
Frame bath - photo
An important point. Even during the creation of the frame, you need to know what kind of material the insulation will be made with. The fact is that international standards set the width of pressed glass wool or expanded polystyrene to 60 cm, but some domestic manufacturers, for inexplicable reasons, reduce it by several centimeters. This must be taken into account when calculating the distances between the vertical supports of the frame, otherwise the insulation will be performed with great difficulties and a significant amount of unproductive waste of expensive insulation.
Frame construction requires mandatory insulation
With the theoretical part, we figured it out a little, you can proceed to the practical steps for insulating a frame bath.
Frame construction is gaining momentum. Previously, customers shied away from it, doubting its reliability and durability. Now the experience of many developers makes it possible to increasingly resort to this technology. Even the baths are made in a timber-frame style. Although in this case, a correctly established skeleton is still half the success. Correct insulation frame bath - one of the factors of the long service life of the building and savings on heating. Let's consider in more detail the materials and methods of insulation.
The choice of insulation depends not only on the construction technology. An important factor is what kind of bath is to be insulated. The bath can be:
When choosing a material for insulation, one should take into account the temperature and humidity conditions of the room. For example, taking a bath ofuro is characterized by high evaporation of liquid. In such a bath, the procedure consists in immersing the body in a barrel of water. Water temperature + 45 ° С. With this method of bathing, there is an abundant sedimentation of liquid on surfaces. Therefore, you need reinforced waterproofing and insulation with low moisture absorption.
In the sanarium, both temperature and humidity are relatively low. Therefore, you do not need to worry about withstanding high temperatures by insulation. The main thing is that the insulation effectively copes with the preservation of temperature.
The high temperature in the hamam requires the material:
Any insulation is selected based on heat engineering calculation... It takes into account:
Based on the thickness of the material used, the width of the frame beam is selected. If the width of the frame is small, insulation takes place from the inside or outside of the building.
The step of the frame bearing racks is also calculated based on the width of the insulation. For mineral wool mats, it may not cure too hard. After all, the compressibility of the mat will allow it to deform for the device between the posts.
With rigid heaters, the step of the racks should be clearly set. Indeed, if the distance is inaccurate, the slab will need to be cut or added. This can be tricky in some cases.
The main advantage of polystyrene is its low cost. Basically, for insulation of the dressing room, kitchen and rest room, 100 mm foam is enough. It can be a single piece or two pieces of 50 mm.
For direct insulation of the steam room, a layer of 150 mm is required. Only in this case will the insulation be effective.
Basically, the entire line of foam boards is combustible. Therefore, for a bath, it is better to choose products of the PSB-S brand containing antipyrine. They belong to the G1 flammability class.
The ignition temperature of the plates is 491 °. This is almost twice the ignition temperature of wood.
Low water absorption protects foam boards from decay. The plate absorbs only 2% of the liquid per day.
The thermal conductivity of the material is only 0.038 W / (m * K). This is due to the composition of the foam boards. The product is 98% air and only 2% polystyrene.
Despite the constant mention of sound insulation, this figure is low. Only 4 dB is absorbed.
The disadvantage of polystyrene is increased fragility when:
Because of this, the material must be purchased with stock.
Mineral wool is produced in:
The first two types are used to insulate the walls of a frame bath. It is better to use mats, as their shrinkage is less. Roll materials slide over time, therefore it is more rational to insulate horizontal surfaces with them.
With the help of mineral wool cylinders, thermal conductivity is reduced:
Mineral wool is available in several types:
The thermal conductivity of this material is 0.041-0.045 W / (m * C). These indicators are taken from GOST 1995-01-01. Therefore, the indication in the passport of lower values should alert the consumer.
Density figures vary. For soft mats, they are 20 kg / m3, for slabs intended for insulation of floors and road sheets, 200 kg / m3. To create a warm bath, the lowest density is sufficient, in the case of insulation inside the walls. The device of the outer cladding for painting will tighten the requirements for density.
Almost all types of mineral wool are non-combustible materials. The melting point of the fibers is 650 ° C. Only foil-clad products were assigned class G1.
Reflective layer promotes heat retention by reflecting up to 95% heat flow... Its advantage is the protection of mineral wool from moisture.
The high absorption rate is one of the significant disadvantages of the material. To protect it, a dense, with well-protected joints, hydro-barrier is arranged.
Many will say that this is unacceptable for a bath. Yes, if you use untreated sawdust.
Effective and safe insulation requires mixing sawdust with other components:
In the process of mixing, an antiseptic is added to the mixture. Often, boric acid acts in its role.
Antiseptic treatment will protect the plates from damage:
Such insulation for a bath can be made independently or ordered from factory plates. Arbolite materials are made on the basis of wood chips.
The thermal conductivity of the material in question is impressive - from 0.07 to 0.17 W / m * ° C.
Products are produced in blocks. To insulate a wooden-frame bath, you can use narrow blocks of 500 * 250 * 150 mm. You can also cut wider blocks to lengths.
An additional, pleasant advantage is the environmental friendliness of the material. When heated, it does not emit toxins or unpleasant odors.
One of the most expensive but effective ways, spraying polyurethane foam. The material is characterized by:
Before insulating the frame bath, you need to arrange a layer of waterproofing. In its role is a dense PVC film. The film is attached to the outside of the frame with a stapler.
The waterproofing joints are mounted with an overlap of at least 10 cm. The joints are glued with adhesive tape.
Film device:
The insulation is placed between the uprights. Soft mats slip over time, so they are fixed at the top with a rail.
If the slab insulation does not fit tightly to the frame, the joints foamed. If the width of the roll insulation is insufficient, the slots are filled with scraps.
A vapor barrier membrane is mounted on top of the insulation. It is attached to the frame with staples.
In the case of foil-clad insulation, an air gap is created in front of the foil layer, on the inside. Its width is taken at least 1 cm.A gap is formed in two ways:
For the construction of walls near the heating element, a separate technique is required. It is advisable to arrange a wall of refractory bricks at the place of installation of the furnace. Warming, in this case, consists in isolating the overheated stone from the room.
Asbestos slabs are suitable for flue gas venting. They will withstand high temperatures without emitting harmful substances.
The floors in the frame structure can be wooden (along the logs) or concrete. Wood floor insulation technology is more responsible. Necessary:
In order to arrange a concrete floor, it is necessary to replace the wooden logs with a steel profile. The distributed load does not negate the large weight of the material. Therefore, it is necessary to select beams following the calculation.
The selection of ceiling insulation must be approached responsibly. After all, a large temperature difference on its surface creates condensation.
The main thing is in the thermal insulation of the ceiling, the protection of the insulation from moisture penetration. Therefore, it is necessary to create a reliable waterproofing.
Ceiling decoration depends on the type of bath:
When lining with a board, the insulation is laid on a waterproofing layer with a finishing board lining.
Facing with tiles or mosaics will require a solid base. In this case, the "pie" of the ceiling will be as follows:
Stretch PVC fabric itself acts as moisture protection. Therefore, the insulation is arranged directly on it.
A frame bath is a pre-fabricated structure. It is built from wooden beams. Such a structure is easy to move from place to place, install on wooden piles, adjust the distance to the ground, and equip water drainage. To repair a bath or replace building elements, it is not required to disassemble the entire structure. Insulation of a frame bath is part of the construction process. The walls of the bathhouse are a pie with vapor barrier, waterproofing and a layer of insulation. Baths are insulated during construction.
Insulation of the frame bath should start from the walls and floor, gradually rising. The ceiling is insulated last, the steam room too, since this is the inner part of the building. Before starting work on the insulation of the bath, you need to install external walls. For example, sheathe the frame with clapboard or other wood, and after thermal insulation, install a ventilated facade. This will help draw moisture out.
The bath floor should have a cake design. First, the crate is installed, which must be covered with a vapor barrier, then the insulation is mounted, then the waterproofing and the topcoat.
The insulation of the ceiling in the bath is similar to the floor, only for the vapor barrier you need to install a foil covering. It traps heat and reflects it off the ceiling. Also, near the ceiling, you need to provide an exhaust or an opening for air and condensation.
When insulating a steam room, you need to pay attention to the area near the stove. She demands additional protection from moisture and fire. In addition to insulation and waterproofing, foil or a thin layer of aluminum is laid on the walls around the stove, and then heat-resistant brick.
Before starting work, you need to make sure that the thickness of the frame rails is at least 150 millimeters. You can lay the insulation immediately between them: the structure will be lighter, but hardly more durable. If you plan to use the bathhouse in winter, you should sheathe the frame with clapboard from the outside.
Then lay a layer of vapor barrier, grabbing the frame battens and lining. The vapor absorber can be a foil coating, polymer and membrane PVC films. You can attach them to the tree with a stapler. Mount the crate on top, lay insulation between it and the frame.
The installation of the insulation starts from the bottom up along the perimeter of the bath frame. Depending on the material, you can attach it to the wall using glue or dowels with screws. For some heaters, for example, polyurethane foam, fasteners are not needed, since the material has adhesive properties. The insulation layer must be at least 100 millimeters. In some cases, it is possible to install a double layer of thermal insulation of 50 millimeters. Place foil between layers for extra protection.
The gaps and gaps between the insulation plates must be closed with polyurethane foam. Then proceed with the installation of the waterproofing. To do this, it is also worth taking the foil material and attaching it over the crate. Close all joints and gaps with foil scraps. For finishing the walls, take the lining and close the waterproofing with it.
Before insulating the walls, check again the places with hoods or air outlets. They need to be placed at the top of the wall. After insulation, treat the holes with polyurethane foam.
You need to start warming the bath with the installation of wooden plates on the outside of the frame. Drill holes in them for ventilation and one big hole to drain the water. Then lay a layer of waterproofing - PVC membrane. It must completely cover the frame and the wooden slabs. It can be glued. After that, lay a layer of insulation between the frame rails. It can be polyurethane foam. Due to its physical and chemical properties, it is attached to the surface without glue. Spraying layer - 25-40 millimeters. It should be taken into account that after spraying, the polyurethane foam will increase in volume. After that, close the insulation with a thin wooden plate and leave a gap of 2-3 millimeters between the materials. This will help the condensate evaporate. For additional protection, lay a layer of polystyrene or expanded polystyrene on top of the wooden board and secure it with glue. At this stage, pay attention to the plum. Place sealant around it. Then cover the entire floor with foil-coated waterproofing.
The top coating can be both wood treated with antifungal agents, and polymer-cement screed with tiles.
The thermal insulation device for the ceiling of a frame bath is similar to wall insulation. First, you need to install a PVC membrane that will remove moisture to the outside, then a layer of insulation, then a foil coating - it will help keep the heat inside. The membrane needs to be attached to wooden beams with a stapler and foil tape. After that, install the crate, which will help to evenly distribute the insulation around the perimeter of the ceiling. Insert thermal insulation between the battens of the battens, a layer of 50 to 100 millimeters. The insulation should be uniform without gaps. If there are any, cover them with polyurethane foam. Then attach the vapor barrier: foil or thermal film. Install wooden slats on top. This will allow the material to attach more tightly.
The final stage will be the finishing cladding. For this, facing panels, linden, larch or pine lining are suitable. It is better to fasten heavy materials to the ceiling using dowels and self-tapping screws, and light ones - with polyurethane glue or a stapler. A stainless steel screen must be installed above the stove. This will protect the ceiling from deformation and overheating. The same should be done on the floor around the oven.
To insulate a steam room, you need to follow the same instructions as for insulating a bath. The steam room is distinguished by a high concentration of moisture and a stove. To protect the walls from mold and mildew, you need to install a double layer of waterproofing. Also, the layer of insulation can be doubled. Place a PVC membrane between the layers. It is worth paying attention to the area around the stove, chimney and windows. Close all gaps and cracks with insulation and sealant, install a foil covering around the entire perimeter of the steam room, and then close it with clapboard.
For thermal insulation of the bath, you can use different materials: from mineral wool to polyurethane foam. When choosing a heater, you need to pay attention to its properties:
Closed-cell polyurethane foam has a water absorption rate of 5% of the volume, therefore it is suitable for warming a frame bath. Its thermal conductivity is 0.022 W / m * K - one of the lowest among materials for thermal insulation. PU foam does not absorb moisture, is not subject to decay and thinning. It is sprayed using a special technique in a single layer. High adhesion allows laying not only on horizontal but also on vertical surfaces. To insulate a bath, it is important that the insulation is non-combustible. The flammability class of polyurethane foam varies depending on the requirements. This polymer does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere, even in rooms with high temperatures. Its service life reaches 30 years or more. Learn more about the equipment and components of polyurethane foam.
The thermal insulation properties of the foam are comparable to those of polyurethane foam. The thermal conductivity is 0.038 W / m * K. Polyfoam also does not absorb moisture, it is resistant to salt solutions. It is often used to insulate residential buildings and various structures. However, it can deteriorate from acetone, kerosene and oil. It has a high flammability class and is highly flammable. When burning, it emits a pungent toxic odor. Styrofoam can be used to insulate the floor in a bath, but you should remember about precautions and avoid overheating. The service life of the foam is from 10 to 20 years.
Warming a frame bath requires integrated approach... You need to start from the floor, going up. A combination of several materials can be used. When insulating, make sure that there are no cracks and gaps in the frame structure.
If you do not know which materials to choose for warming a bath, you cannot calculate their consumption and are looking for a suitable brigade, use the service on the website. More than 630 teams of performers are registered, ready to help you. to contact a consultant. He will tell you about the cost of the work and help you choose a team ..
