Each master is faced with the problem of how and what to attach assembled doors... To install a ready-made door block possible application different ways installation. Knowing these mounting options, you can easily choose the one that suits you. You will need a small set of tools such as a drill, hammer drill, level, screwdriver and hammer. Also, to directly fix the box in the opening, you need fasteners and foam. Depending on where you need to fix the door block, you may need self-tapping screws, dowels, anchors.
At the very beginning, the dismantling of the old door frame... It can be carried out using a nail puller (crowbar), having previously made cuts on both sides of each vertical bar, in order to then squeeze this structure from the opening. If anchor bolts were used during the installation of the old box, nails that cannot be unscrewed can be cut with a grinder.
Before installing the box interior doors it is necessary to check the verticals of the walls and take into account the differences in the level of the walls and floor. The door frame must be positioned so that if there are irregularities, the walls of the box do not go deeper into the opening. This is necessary for the fit of the door trims. In order to correctly position the door frame, you should use the building level and take into account all the errors of the opening.
First, the units are rigidly fixed in the opening to achieve the initial level of rigidity, wedges are used. After completing the fixing work, it is worth re-checking the correct location with the level so that the box is level with the door.
It is important to know the foam that is intended for the gun, it is much better and more convenient to work with due to the fact that it is more dosed and has a small coefficient of expansion, it hardens much faster. Foam, which is supplied with a large amount with a straw, will expand for a longer time. Before starting work, it is better to close the door leaf with masking tape and film, because the foam is difficult to wash. It is important to know that you need to start foaming with fixing individual small areas. After 30 minutes, you can already walk the entire perimeter. All cracks are filled with foam (50% of the total volume). Do not fill with a lot of foam, because during expansion the foam will push the box inward. We recommend using professional foams.
Since the tree shrinks and expands precisely because of high humidity the consequence of the expansion is the deformation of the door block. The door will simply stop closing for this reason.
There are several ways to fasten the door frame in the opening, each of which involves the use of a special type of fastening. Various options fasteners provide a certain level of reliability and strength of the fixed structure. We hope video footage on the options for installing boxes wooden doors will help you.
The door frame is fixed in the opening, wooden wedges are used to fix it, and correct location checked by the building level. Foaming with polyurethane foam should be done little by little, in sections and intermittently to avoid deformation. The door frame is held practically thanks to the foam alone.
To maintain a gap between the frame and the door itself, use small 3 mm spacers that are inserted between the door and the frame. They can only be removed when the foam is dry. Usually the door is left overnight.
This method is convenient if you do not need to go into the room, it is quick and does not require much effort. It is important not to overdo it with foam so that you can open the door.
The principle of installation lies in the fact that we use the spacers inside to temporarily fix the door block in the opening. These can be either ordinary wooden rivers or special adjustable devices.
Both are very good for light and small doors.
For these purposes, Knauf direct suspensions, which are used in suspended ceilings, are the best suited.
After that, we set it on a level and fix the plates. For adjustment, we use wedging with wooden bars.
It is also necessary to take into account that with this method of mounting the box on the outer part of the wall, the place of the recess must be hidden under a layer of plaster. That is why this method is only good when there is no finishing.
This video will show you how to fix the door frame in the opening. This type of fastening is the installation of an interior door box, by putting the box on the screwed-in heads of the self-tapping screws, which are located at the ends of the opening. This happens with the help of metal plates with a hole, which are screwed on the outside of the box.
To achieve the final fixation of the box in doorway, the usual adjustment means are used.
With this method, the racks of the door block move freely in the opening.
A clear advantage of this method is the complete possibility of adjustment and, at the same time, rigid fixation with preservation of the original appearance of the box and exterior decoration walls. 
As a rule, for the rigidity of the structure, screws or anchors are used, which are hidden under the hinges. To do this, a hole is made between the screws in the hinge and through it they are attached to the wall. On the side of the lock, another fastener is attached under the decorative plate. As a result, we get 3 fixation points.
After directly fixing, we put a spacer at the bottom of the doors, since the bottom is not fixed and all the gaps are filled with foam.
A significant plus of this method is the relative rigidity, preservation of the appearance.
This is the most common standard installation option for interior doors. For this option, fastening, first, holes are drilled for anchors in the right places of the racks, then the door is fastened in the opening.
Then the box is exposed and drilled with 10 mm concrete under the anchor. When the box is on anchors, it is securely held and does not require any struts. The attachment points can be hidden by installing decorative caps the desired color, size (14 mm). Instead of anchors, screws can be used, this will reduce the diameter of the plug. This option is most reliable for heavy doors. With it, you can align (stretch) the curved rail. The doors can be used almost immediately. It is possible to adjust the gap. The downside is the presence of stubs. 
Tips for installing door accessories
Conclusion
There are many options for installing the frame of interior doors, but it is worth choosing the one that is the easiest, most convenient and reliable, or the fastest. The choice can be made according to any method of door installation, but these methods can be influenced by what opening the installation is in, taking into account the intensity and other factors.
Have the installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, oh mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate the installation and fly into a "pretty penny"!
You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, prevent mistakes in the choice of doors and fittings, and help the craftsmen to do everything efficiently.
The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and higher ).
For all cases, the correct opening height is the door leaf height + 6cm. from the finished floor., i.e. 206cm. The doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.
Here are some examples of correct openings:
With dimensions doorways you need to decide in advance and it is very important to independently constantly monitor your team during the repair process.
Door width for different rooms
If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about which door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:
When installing interior doors, if the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail the platbands on the other side of the wall.
If installed, it will be a good solution that will beautifully form the slopes. The color of the addons can be selected, for example, under the MDF panel: 
The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm.), Then the extensions must be spliced in width or non-standard extensions must be ordered from production, which will cost much more.
On which side of the door to install extensions?
It totally depends on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the box is exposed flush with the room wall, and the complement will be in the corridor, respectively.
If you do the opposite, the door will not open completely (it will rest against the door). Sometimes they resign themselves to this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, it is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.
Usually, if in one corridor some of the doors will open into the corridor, and some into the rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the peculiarities door frame... If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time one opens inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper platbands will not coincide.
This is how the door looks from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, on us: 
This is what the door looks like, which opens into the room, that is, inside: 
It is necessary to ensure that the blade does not close the switch when torn off. It is highly desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. In the bathroom, it is necessary to provide for an opening of 180 degrees for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.
Make sure that a door that is 90 degrees open does not block the opening of an adjacent door.
In order not to waste time on coordinating the opening of doors with the masters during installation, make a drawing diagram on a piece of paper in advance.
How high should the door be from the floor?
The standard height is 1 cm from the finished floor. As for the doors of the bathrooms, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm, so as not to disrupt the flow of air. If you have plastic windows don't forget to do supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the humidity in the apartment too much when the vents are closed.
In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity during the repair, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing work, including in the neighboring rooms.
Early installed doors can be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tiled or wallpaper glue, especially plaster dries for quite a long time, releasing moisture into the room. An increase in humidity above 70% for several days increases the risk that the doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell and stop closing normally.
However, if you like to wash your bathtub or shower frequently, humidity poses no threat, as the bathroom is quickly ventilated.
Installation of interior doors should be done if you have a finished floor ready!
Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and it is easier to install them later, with a clear abutment of the platbands to the floor.
If you first install the box directly on the screed (base floor), then it is impossible to bring the flooring under the box, as it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to calculate correctly the lower gap of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future coverage, especially if the floor has not been leveled.
If you did everything correctly and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door pillars and slip in a new coating. In this case, the racks will not go down but will remain hanging.
A common mistake of the repair crews is too high openings, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208 ~ 209 cm, but better - 206 cm. from the floor covering.
Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is due to the fact that many customers make warm floors and the height after installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair and a situation arose when the upper platband did not close the opening.
Solution: if your opening is higher than what you need, and there is no way to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper platband, but usually they are mounted from the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening with drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.
Another option: if the platbands are flat, cut them off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut out of the wider extensions. Some customers get out of the situation in this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the casing, and if you do all the doors in the apartment like this, it will look a little wild)).
If the opening is at least 2-3 cm wider than the desired one from the sides, the foam seam will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the polyurethane foam helps to withstand even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.
Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden bar with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the stage of repair using foam blocks and tile glue.
First, you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps / depressions, attaching a long rule, an extension or a flat board to the wall. Humps are especially common closer to the floor. Even one small hump will interfere with the snug fit of the platband to the wall.
To solve this problem, there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you do not want or cannot level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50 cm wide) and glue the wallpaper.
Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings should be parallel, the walls should be even and strictly vertical. If the opening is curved, the walls are sloping, there are humps or depressions, act as appropriate.
If you understand that the opening is a curve and goes more than 1 cm from the vertical, you can align the walls with plaster on the lighthouses by putting them on vertical level and re-glue the wallpaper. As you already understood, this is the best and most difficult solution!
How to install a door in a crooked opening?
But what if there is no way to level the wall? Suppose the wall into which the door is supposed to be installed is heaped from the vertical by more than 1 cm by two meters of the opening height. Then you have three ways out:
The choice is yours, in all cases there are disadvantages and there are advantages, because this is a compromise.
In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the platbands, and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But by reducing the platbands in width, we still spoil appearance doors, see photo: 
However, there are several other options for solving this problem:
Installation of an interior threshold
The door leaf is located in the opening closer to the part of the wall where the door will open, therefore, the sill covering the floor joint when the door is closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:
A common mistake of repair crews is the wrong location of the sills! To avoid such an error, draw a diagram of the opening of all doors in advance and hand it over to the foreman before laying the finishing floors.
Installation of interior doors to the bathroom
For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors with a height of 2 meters. Bathrooms in new homes often require a 1m-high canvas. 90cm. due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this moment and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, as an option, you can shorten the door.
If you increase the opening in height, then the upper mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from below, then the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.
A common mistake is the threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of a wet room are disturbed, and in the future, mold may appear.
Polyurethane foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust at the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the walls of the opening if they are covered with plaster putty or if the walls are made of gypsum / aerated concrete blocks.
If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be repaired with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the master does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for the door frame fasteners are drilled between these cavities into the lintels.
If the walls of the opening are made of plasterboard, then in the metal profile in the vertical ends of the opening necessarily you need to lay dry wooden block... It is needed to securely fasten the doors to self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counterpart, and it also stiffens the walls in the opening area. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term operation and will quickly sag.
If a bar is laid inside the metal profile and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not stick well to galvanized metal. Peeling is possible over time. To avoid this, strips of gypsum board or gypsum fiber board or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.
It is not allowed to leave voids between drywall sheets in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the upper box is often strongly bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example, using foam, a filled end of the wall is required.
Preparing the opening for sliding doors
For those wishing to install sliding sliding doors, the opening height for a standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with docks and platbands under the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.
At a height of 207cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of about 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum upper rail with rollers will be attached.
If you don't want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in a small apartment, so it is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent spaces: a hall and a living room, a corridor and a dining room, a living room and a small kitchen. Doorway without the usual door surprisingly transforms the room: 
Preparing the floor covering before installing the doors
A common mistake of repair teams when laying floor coverings when the gap between floor covering and the wall in the area of the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of platbands.
A recess (groove) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible extensions of the floor covering.
Storing doors after purchase
To prevent deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, box beam and platbands must be stored on a flat surface lying down before installation. Doors can be placed sideways against the wall.
Doors, platbands and frames can change their dimensions after changes in humidity. Due to the rise in humidity after the cold in the warmth, before installation, it is necessary to store the door and moldings indoors for several days. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.
The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of backlash are very important. If the thickness of the hinge metal is 3 mm, then these are good hinges, the thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass, steel. The most common door hinges are of several types:
How to choose locks and latches?
Locks and latches are best chosen based on the most quiet work mechanisms for opening-closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought at a higher price and preferably Italian, there are very high quality options. Do not save on them, so as not to suffer later.
Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, here you must first ask around from knowledgeable people (not sellers), and not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then suddenly it will start to rattle. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers are familiar with these models.
Classic latches / locks can be purchased. It is best to choose them with plastic tabs, as they are the quietest to operate and do not clang like metal.
Sometimes it happens that the new latch does not work well. In this case, put a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tab.
Height of the door handle from the floor
For Europe - 95 cm. Nowadays, many symmetrical doors are produced, in which the handle, according to the door design, should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard for the height of the handles for Russia is 1 meter.
Almost all models door handles the set includes too long self-tapping screws, which, when screwing them into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw the handles with their own self-tapping screws.
How to make right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done efficiently if the door installer is in doubt? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.
How to check the work of the door installation wizard?
How to choose a door installer? Basic methods.
1. The master must narrowly specialize in the installation of doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (with friends in the apartment). A foreman or a team must have at least 1 year experience and give Professional must be available: a saw for cross-cutting, a saw table or a hand-held circular saw, milling cutters, a screwdriver, a drill, a hammer drill, a hairpin gun with a compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read
Convenience of living in an apartment and its design largely depend on the owner's worldview, his attitude to interior design, compliance with ergonomic rules, and security.
Delimiting the space of the dwelling into recreation areas, receiving guests, cooking and other purposes, allows the owners to focus on solving everyday issues, to use them more efficiently.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the tips for the correct installation of an interior door made of MDF, which will help the home craftsman to perform this operation efficiently with his own hands. They can also be used to talk with employees to whom you plan to entrust such work in order to eliminate all reservations when placing an order.
Due to the mass production of interior doors in the factory, all their dimensions are reduced to a single, general standard. For non-standard situations, products are manufactured under an individual order.
To choose a door you should:
The factory set includes:
The interior door is installed in a building opening made in the wall. It should fit optimally in it. To do this, before purchasing, you should accurately measure the main dimensions:
Their value determines the choice of shape, design and dimensions of the door leaf. Typical building openings of buildings are standardized in size and allow deviations from the standards for:
Naturally, the thickness of the walls in different buildings differs widely, ranging from 9 to 60 cm.
When choosing a door according to the height of the door leaf, the maximum and minimum allowable opening size is taken into account.
The ratios of the door leaf of the leaf and the opening in width are summarized in the table.
If the proportions of the door leaf and the opening do not meet the requirements of the accepted standards, then you have to make a choice between:
A very wide wall can complicate the design of the extension, and the location of the opening in the corner of the room can affect the number and shape of the platbands.
Not only do people pass through the door, but furniture has to be moved. According to this parameter, narrow passages cause serious difficulties and inconveniences.
Usually problems are created in narrow corridors with several rooms and ill-conceived placement of doors, when opened, part of the passage is blocked, the working space is limited.
It is also important to take into account the elementary safety requirements dictated by the rules of behavior in emergency situations, when it is necessary to urgently leave the room, for example, in case of fire, and the door prevents you from running out, opening against the oncoming traffic.
Rely on your taste and preferences when choosing an interior door design, but be sure to discuss this issue with your family members.
The design of the interior door is based on a rectangle that is set strictly. Its correct location ensures the stationary state of the leaf at an arbitrary angle of deviation from the closed state to full disclosure.
To control the quality of installation, it is enough to open the door to any position and observe the absence of spontaneous movement anywhere. To achieve such a state, it is required to maintain equal gaps of the canvas in the vestibule both from the sides and from the top by 2 ÷ 3 mm.
In this case, the door structure will work for a long time, reliably, without defects.
The main attention when installing the door should be focused on strictly vertical mounting door frame and its location relative to the plane of the wall.
Difficulties may arise with the geometry of the walls. Very often, their surfaces are curved, concave or oblique. You will have to choose the optimal solution between the orientation of the interior door frame or to align the wall surface. Assess your capabilities correctly.
The assembly diagram of the structure is illustrated by a picture.
Initially, a door frame should be installed in the wall opening, which is often supplied as standard with collapsible parts with a set of posts and crossbars that need to be trimmed according to local conditions.
The picture showing the geometry of the door shows a diagram of attaching the cross member to the uprights using the overhead method using self-tapping screws. In practice, there are other varieties of this method:
Cutting the posts at an angle is performed by qualified specialists with a professional tool. It creates a better connection, but requires accurate surface finish and precise technology.
Saw out oblique planes with specialized circular saws, which allow you to set the angles of inclination with an accuracy of fractions of a degree. It is problematic to create such a surface with an ordinary hacksaw for wood, even when using a template.
The surfaces of the racks and crossbars cut off at an angle are combined, and holes are drilled for self-tapping screws to direct them strictly along the axis of the parts.
Then screws are screwed into the prepared holes.
Two self-tapping screws on each side of the parts to be joined fix the position of the rack with the crossbar.
After that, it is necessary to clarify the size of the crossbar along the sash with templates, make markings for it and saw off the excess part at an angle of 45 degrees.
The second post is attached to the created surface with screws according to the previously shown technology.
The total height of the interior box is determined by the length of the racks, which will need to be accurately cut to fit the dimensions of the opening from the floor height.
The work consists of three stages:
For fastening, you will need to make wood wedges that will fix the door frame in the wall opening. They must be placed 3 ÷ 4 on each side and at least 2 on top. Reducing the likelihood of distortions of the door block will allow installing it together with a sash temporarily fastened with templates.
It is perfectly acceptable to install the door unit without a sash. It can be replaced with spacers of the required width. However, protective measures will need to be taken. decorative coating struts and keep track of the position of the struts - they may fall out.
After pre-installation, the position of the door frame is fixed using wedges. It is necessary to achieve its strictly vertical placement and a clear position along the plane of the wall on the side of the sash opening.
The final position of the box is controlled by measurements building level in two specified planes after final fixation with wedges. This is an important operation for installing an interior door with your own hands.
Preliminary preparation requires taking measures for the foam to hit the floor and box. You can put newspapers under your feet and the opening, and protect the surfaces of the box with construction tape. Since the foam adheres better to a damp surface, it is recommended to moisten the wall opening.
For better fastening boxes, you can, stepping back 50 ÷ 70 cm from the top and bottom of the racks, drill holes to fix them with impact screws. Through them holes for dowels and additionally secure with self-tapping screws.
After that, perform regular work by filling the gaps with foam and giving it the opportunity to harden, expand, harden. This requires a break in the installation of the interior door for at least 12 hours. Usually it is combined with a night's rest.
The next day, the resulting excess foam is cut off, the loops are fixed with the rest of the details.
When choosing an installation site for the hinges, attention is paid to the quality of the wood, the absence of cracks and knots. Otherwise, the fastening screws may split the material.
For marking, the loop is placed on the attachment point, outlined with a pencil and removed. A chisel tip is installed on these lines and continuous cuts in the fibers are made along the entire contour with light hammer blows. It remains to make a recess exactly along the thickness of the metal of the hinge plates so that they form a single plane flush with the door frame and sash.
At first, it is more convenient to attach the curtains to the door leaf, and then fix it with wedges in the box and mark the installation locations on the racks with a pencil. When marking, the door should be well adjusted horizontally and vertically. Otherwise, it will stand up sideways or move spontaneously.
To carry out the final marking on the racks, the boundaries of the curtains are outlined, and then they are removed from the door and the contour is accurately drawn according to the pattern for processing with a chisel.
Pre-drilling the holes with a thin drill before driving the screws into the wood prevents cracking.
Butterfly loops make this work much easier. Their installation does not require cutting into the material of the door and frame due to the design that allows one sash to enter the space of another.
To install a door lock, its body is applied to the door leaf at the location, and is drawn around with a pencil. Then the required amount of space is drilled with a drill to the required depth, the surfaces of the recess are leveled with a chisel, and the lock is checked.
When the lock begins to enter the door normally, then it is removed and applied to the side to mark and drill holes for the handle. Finally, fastening is performed with screws.
Using the same technology, a cutout is made in the rack of the box and a stop plate is stamped in it.
To complete the installation of the interior door, you will need to close the side space with platbands. Their fastening and installation of the add-on should not cause any particular difficulties.
In order to consolidate the article material in memory, we recommend watching a detailed and understandable video of the owner of interior doors “Do-it-yourself door installation”.
Doors are one of the few types of joinery that does not forgive mistakes. If you took the dimensions incorrectly or cut off the parts at the wrong angle - that's it, you won't be able to correct the dimensions, you will have to redo everything and use new materials. If the angle of the cut does not match, then it is useless to cover the gap with a sealant. It may become invisible (although this is unlikely), but the strength of the structure will be significantly reduced. The individual elements of the box will not touch across the entire surface, but only at several points. Accordingly, the loads on the bars increase significantly, such a door will not last long. Moreover, you have to use the door very often and with various efforts.
We mean that all work on the assembly of the door frame must be done very carefully and carefully. Technological gaps between the blade and the box, the threshold and the floor are 2 ÷ 3 millimeters, with the same accuracy it is necessary not only to measure, but also to cut off all individual blanks, to make exact allowances for the kerf width.
You must know your instrument and its " specifications". The tool must be sharp and serviceable, and the hand must be "firm and confident." We strongly recommend doing all cuts with an electric saw with a rotating table.
Why not miter box? The answer is simple. If you use a miter box, then with great confidence it can be argued that you rarely make saws, otherwise you would have bought an electric saw long ago. And since you rarely cut materials at an angle, then there is not enough practice.
Measure the doorway first. Standard sizes door leaves have a height of 2000 mm and a width of 900 mm, 800 mm and 700 mm. Inner dimensions door frames increase by 3 mm around the entire perimeter (technological gap), external dimensions frames are 70 mm larger than door leaves. This is the standard thickness of the box slats. If your slats have a different size, then the outer dimensions of the door frame also change. And the gaps between the doorway and the frame must be at least three centimeters.
Now you can check if your doors fit the doorway. If not, you will have to either expand or reduce the doorway. This is the worst option; the dimensions of the doorways must be carefully monitored at the stage of assembling the bathhouse.
Another important point in size - the gap between the door frame and the floor. Depending on the specific place of installation of the door, this gap is regulated by the provisions of SNiP 41-01-2003.
Set of rules. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning
The gap varies within 10 ÷ 15 millimeters and should provide the minimum required air exchange rate for each room. Any natural ventilation premises works on the principle of supply and exhaust. If there is no supply of fresh air, then, of course, there will be no exhaust.
Some owners, in order to save heat in the premises, want to install doors without a ventilation gap, for baths this option is possible, no one is going to spend the night in them. But here inexperienced builders can create a problem for themselves. The minimum gap between the door leaf and the floor within 1 ÷ 2 mm can cause them to jam or difficult to open / close. The fact is that flooring in baths rarely has such horizontal accuracy. To avoid problems with the door leaf and not to cut it after installation, you need to measure the floor level at the corners of the frame.
It is quite difficult to do this, we will tell you in detail about two methods.
Door frames can be with or without a threshold. With a threshold, they are more often installed as entrance and rarely as interior doors, without a threshold, doors are installed only as interior doors.
door frame
Let's start with an easier option. Initial data: material for making boxes - profiled timber made of natural wood. For MDF doors, the technology is almost the same.
Step 1. Bring the door elements into the room.
Very important. Never place them near heating appliances, you do not need to dry them, you need the wood to gain equilibrium moisture content and stabilize its linear dimensions!
What is equilibrium humidity? It is necessary to dwell on this topic a little, it concerns not only door frames, but all wood products. Wood has two indicators of moisture: absolute and relative, they depend on different conditions and processing technologies. But all types of wood have a sorption effect - the ability to absorb moisture from the air. Initially, the humidity can be at least zero, when it enters the room, the humidity rises to an equilibrium state under these specific conditions. If the products were stored in damp conditions in the warehouse, the doors will dry out a little, if they were stored in very dry conditions, the doors will pick up moisture until they are in equilibrium. We hope that this is understandable and now you will not believe the advertisements claiming that the moisture content of their products is 8-10%. Such humidity can be at the exit from the chamber or vacuum drying, but over time, the tree will inevitably pick up water and increase its performance.
Step 2. Check the height and width of the openings, make sure the box will fit with a gap of about 3 centimeters. Hydro level or laser level find out the horizontalness of the flooring at the corners of the doorway.
Step 3... Jog the box blanks on the turntable circular saw - they may have been damaged during transport or storage. You can also cut it with a regular hacksaw, but there is a high probability of veneer peeling. If you still have to work hand tool, then you need to cut the workpieces from the veneer side, let the chips be on the invisible side of the beams. It is better to use a special hacksaw with fine teeth or a hacksaw for metal.
Step 4. Mark the top of the box. To do this, place a block on top of the door leaf and make marks with a gap of 2 ÷ 3 millimeters. For the gap template, you can use packing cardboard, it just fits in thickness. Marks can also be made with a pencil, but it must have a very sharp end. It is better to cut the workpiece later, first you should install the hinges on the door frame.
Step 5... Place the door leaf on its side in an upright position. You can rest it against the walls or make an elementary device to hold it in the desired position. On a piece of board at an angle, nail two spacers at a distance slightly greater than the thickness of the door leaf. Place a piece of soft cloth on the fixture to prevent damage to the corners of the blade. The device is very simple, it is much more convenient to embed loops with it.
Step 6. Measure the location of the loops.
It is recommended to place them at a distance of 20 centimeters from the bottom and top of the canvas. But make a specific decision yourself, it all depends on the characteristics of the door leaf. The main thing is that in the place where the hinges are installed, the sidewalls of the canvas are as strong as possible. Measure twenty centimeters at the top and bottom of the canvas, attach the loops to the marks and make marks along their length.
Step 7. Now you need to mark the position of the hinges on the door frame.
In order for them to exactly match, put one of the box boards on the side of the door, measure the gap between the floor and the canvas in the lower part. It is recommended to do it within 10 millimeters.
Important. If you want to have a minimum gap between the door and the floor, then you need to take into account the indicators of the difference in floor height at the corners of the opening. With a sharp pencil or a construction knife, make notches of the location of the hinges on the board of the box. On vertical bars, be sure to make a difference in the height of the floor, otherwise one of them will either sag or not enter into place. Pay attention from which corner of the doorway the floor is higher; on this side of the door frame, the side board should be shorter by the same value.
Step 8. Cut the door frame boards on the machine according to the marks made. If you have door boards veneered with natural veneer, problems may arise during the gash. Natural veneer has a thickness of up to 1 mm, with the same slope the board will abut against the guide during cutting. Using a sharp chisel, carefully remove the strip of wrapped veneer from back side boards. It is not necessary for the entire length, only washed down in places. This is the only way to guarantee the perfect gash and the most tight fit of the individual elements of the box.
Step 9... Saw down two side and one crosswise door frame blanks at an angle of 45 °. We remind you once again - check the dimensions several times, if the box is shorter, then you will have to throw it away and buy new materials.
Step 10. Install the hinges, they should hang with the manufacturer's logo up. Place the loops exactly according to the notches made earlier on the bar and circle the outline. You can choose the material for the hinges using the manual milling machine or an ordinary chisel.
We cut out the groove under the loop with a chisel
If you have a hand router, great. By the way, it will always come in handy during the construction of a bath, and not only a bath. Set the width of the recess on the machine according to the width of the buttonhole and the depth according to the thickness of the buttonhole. Place the machine on the box board and mill the hinge seat according to the marks. Remove the roundness in the corners with a chisel. Perform work carefully, do not allow cracking of the material.
Working with a chisel is somewhat more difficult. First, you need to beat off grooves with a chisel along the drawn contour, which are approximately equal to the thickness of the loop. Then carefully begin to select the material for the hinge. If you have a MDF box, then the work is somewhat easier. If the box is out natural wood then pay attention to the direction of the fibers. Never work the chisel "against the grain", you will always have deep seizures or cracks. The first layer of wood is removed by tapping on the chisel with milk; a more precise fit must be done manually. The chisel should be sharp, while working, watch the angle of inclination of the tool. If the loop is a little drowned in the canvas, there is nothing to worry about. The main thing is that it does not protrude, it can prevent the door from closing. The hinge should slide into the socket with little force, otherwise a strip of material will be visible.
Step 11. Before screwing the hinges to the box, drill holes in the attachment points with a drill with a smaller diameter than the diameter of the screws. This technique will eliminate cracking of the box board.
Loop fastening
Step 12. So that the heads of the screws with which the door frame will be attached to the wall are not visible on the door frame, you need to sweep under their heads under the hinges. Take a wood drill of the appropriate diameter and drill holes for the sweep on the hinge nests made. You have already drilled holes for the screws, this will help you choose a place for a large screw or dowel so that its head does not fall under the screws. Holes for screws or dowels should be located exactly in the middle of the box board.
Step 13. Collect all the elements of the box together. Self-tapping screws must enter at an angle of 90 ° to the cut surface. Make sure that they do not overlap the technological grooves of the telescopic box. During assembly, precisely align the parts, do not allow mutual displacement, then it is very difficult to correct this displacement. To facilitate the connection, you can first drill holes with a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.
Important. When assembling the parts, press them down with maximum force. The fact is that the self-tapping screw can, before starting to screw into the second part of the box, turn a little in the first - a gap forms between them.
The box is assembled, now it needs to be installed in the doorway. The works are very important and accurate, we will tell you how best to do them.
door leaf
Step 1. Place the box carefully in the doorway, temporarily secure it with pieces of styrofoam or packing cardboard. Check the level of the box for verticality from the side of the hinge attachment. Wedges will be needed to firmly install the box in level and adjust the gaps. They can be cut from waste box bars on a machine at various angles.
Step 2. Install wedges under the hinges, in these places will be placed dowels or a fastening screw. Additionally, hammer in one wedge in each upper corner. To prevent the box from moving during wedging, you need to drive in two wedges from opposite sides with the overlapping of the cut parts. Check the position of the box with a level, do not rush, accurately check the position of each element. The door frame must be flush with outside wall rooms, on the other hand, add-ons will be installed. Make sure that the wedges do not protrude beyond the plane of the wall.
Step 3... Fasten the box through the holes made for the screws in the hinge seats.
Very important. There must be wedges next to these screws. Otherwise, the box is deformed during the tightening of the screw. The false side of the box has not yet been exposed, but only slightly fixed in the wall.
They are engaged in installing the false side after hanging the doors, in this way the maximum dimensional accuracy is ensured. While setting the sidewall of the box, constantly check the horizontal position of the upper headroom. If you correctly take into account the problems with the horizontal level of the floor in different corners of the doorway, the horizontal part will lie in the correct position.
Step 4... To make the frame elements more stable, they must be partially foamed while hanging the door leaf.
Before that, the surfaces should be cleaned of dust and dirt and must be moistened with an ordinary sprayer with water. Most of the employees construction companies neglect cleaning and wetting surfaces, but in vain. The coefficient of foam adhesion to wet surfaces increases by an order of magnitude. Keep this in mind. Stamp the feigned part of the box only in one or two places, it will still have to be moved.
Step 5. Attach hinges, latches or locks to the door leaf. The installation algorithm depends on the specific type of fittings. While you were doing this work, the foam on the door frame dried up, you can hang the door leaf to it.
Step 6. Place a lining of the required thickness under the door leaf and first attach the upper and then the lower door hinges to the frame. Close the door and finally use the wedges to expose the false part of the box. Everything is fine - foam the door frame around the entire perimeter.
polyurethane foam
Now it is worth considering the process of assembling a door frame with a threshold. For a change, we will connect the elements of the box not at an angle of 45 °, as in the above case, but at an angle of 90 °. We do this on purpose in the hope that unnecessary knowledge will not interfere with anyone.
In addition, such a connection of the door frame elements is considered more durable. If in the first case the length of the self-tapping screws was limited by the thickness of the corner joint, now these restrictions are removed, the self-tapping screw can enter the body of the bar by 2 ÷ 3 centimeters. A stronger connection increases the stability of the door sill and can be subjected to significant forces.
Checking the condition of the doorway, checking the floor level in the corners, taking measurements, preparing places for installing hinges and drilling for screws for fixing the box is no different from assembling a door frame without a threshold. And then the differences begin.
Step 1. Saw off the top horizontal bar of the box. Its length should be equal to the width of the door leaf plus 6 millimeters for gaps on both sides of the frame. Two such blanks need to be made - one is used under the door sill.
Step 2. On the vertical bars of the box, you need to remove the protruding stubborn quarter. Keep in mind that the cleanliness of the size of the uprights must be equal to the height of the door leaf plus 6 mm for the gaps on both sides. In addition, the left and right vertical posts of the door frame must take into account the difference in floor height in the corners of the doorway. We have already described all technological operations in the first example, it makes no sense to repeat.
In order to remove a quarter, attach the horizontal part to the end of the vertical rack of the box and mark its width. Measure with maximum accuracy, do not allow the appearance of gaps in the connection. No matter how you plug them up later, a real master will always see the flaws. Along the marked line, carefully cut the protruding quarter, the depth of the cut should be equal to the height of the quarter. Saw only with a fine-toothed hacksaw, the tool, as always, must be in good condition.
Step 3. Remove a quarter from the end of the vertical bars with a chisel. Do the work very carefully. The plane of the bar after removal should be perfectly flat across the entire width. Hold the chisel correctly while working. It has a flat bottom part, and the top one is sharpened at an angle. The upper plane should always be visible, otherwise the chisel will spontaneously cut into the tree, a flat surface will not work. This rule applies to all cases of chisel work. Do the same work on all sides of the door frame.
Step 4. Put the details on flat surface and first connect the upper part of the door frame. Before screwing in, you must first drill holes in the details of a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the screws. This will eliminate the possibility of cracking or the appearance of a gap between the parts during the connection.
Corner assembly diagram
Step 5. Before assembling the threshold, we advise you to check the correspondence of its dimensions and the correct location. To do this, carefully put the assembled frame of the box from two vertical and one horizontal elements on a flat area and put the door leaf in place. Mark the exact position of the hinges on the door leaf, check all the gaps around the perimeter of the door frame and door leaf. As long as there is no threshold, the uprights can be moved slightly. Check the distances again, check the correctness of the threshold and, if necessary, correct the mistakes, in this position you have the opportunity to slightly correct the dimensions.
Door frame installation - photo
Pay particular attention to the reliability of fixing the door frame from the side of hanging the door frames. It is pointless to increase the number of dowels or screws; no more than two of them should be used. Why? The loads on the door frame from the door leaf are transmitted only through the hinges, which means that the frame should be fixed in these places. No matter how many screws you put between the hinges, they will not work. Drill only unnecessary and noticeable holes in the box. And under the hinges, the hardware of the fastener can be hidden. The main thing is that these two hardware fit with maximum reliability. The slightest hesitation was found - eliminate them immediately, do not hope that the foam will withstand. Only unscrupulous or inept builders can do this. The foam holds lateral forces well, but almost does not work at all in compression, remember this always.
Do not be discouraged if some screws were slightly larger in length than required and appeared from the back of the box. This does not affect either the strength of the fasteners or the appearance of the door. The main thing is that the frame does not crack.
If you have a door frame made of natural wood, then self-tapping screws should be used with a large step, if from MDF - with a small step.
To install, you will need a tool and basic construction skills. The quality of the work performed depends on accurate measurements. The slightest distortions will lead to jamming of the sash, the formation of cracks. Door blocks are sold assembled or disassembled. In the second case, the installation will be more difficult due to the need for self-assembly of the pipe.
The door installation begins with the preparation of the tool. For installation works you will need:
Self-tapping screws are used from materials, polyurethane foam as well as many different thicknesses of wood wedges for the spacers. Immediately you need to decide how to put the interior doors so that the fasteners are not visible.
If preference is given to hidden installation, suspensions are additionally purchased. You can fix the bow with anchors. Drown the hats in the secret holes, putty, and paint over on top.
If you know how to use the tool, you can do the door installation yourself. It is important to initially make all accurate measurements in order to avoid distortions. In general terms, the procedure for installing an interior door consists of the following processes:
To execute correct installation an interior door with your own hands, even before buying a door block for sure. The dimensions of the frame must be less from the passage, otherwise it will have to be. It is optimal to maintain the gaps when installing the interior door between the roof and the wall - from 10 to 40 mm.
Mandatory, but necessary if the depth of the opening exceeds the size of the frame. The protruding sections of the wall are hidden under decorative strips. Step-by-step instructions will help you better understand the installation process.
The installation of the interior door begins with unpacking the purchased block, inspecting all the components. The door window can be sold assembled or disassembled into separate elements with fastening grooves.
If you purchased a tin with ready-made fasteners, you only need to assemble it. The frame is sold from sawn to size elements. There can be three of them: a false and hinged rack, as well as a lintel top bar. If a nut is provided, then a fourth element is included.
To assemble the frame, plugs are knocked out of the ends of the racks together with the connecting pins. The edges of the vertical and horizontal frame elements are joined so that the mounting holes coincide. The connecting pins are hammered in with a hammer, and the holes are closed with plugs.
When knocking out the plugs, blows are applied through the wooden linings to prevent the decorative coating from being destroyed.
Much more difficult, sold in the form of blanks from figured veneered timber. You will need a woodworking tool as well as a basic knowledge of joinery. consists of the following steps:
After making the box, the door leaf is laid. Having stepped back from above and below 25 cm, on the hinge rack, as well as the end of the sash, mark the mounting locations of the hinges. So that the fastening plates do not protrude, recesses are chosen in the wood with a chisel or cutter.
Open way provides with anchors. The frame is inserted into the opening. Set vertically and horizontally. All measurements are carried out with a level, as well as a plumb line. Observing a gap of 10 to 40 mm, wooden wedges are driven in between the box and the walls. By knocking or loosening the struts, the frame is perfectly flat.
From the inside of the box with a pitch of 50-60 cm, through holes are drilled with countersunk holes. Holes are made in the wall with a drill for concrete. The anchors are screwed in so that the cap disappears inside the secret selection. After a level check, the gap between the wall and the frame is blown out with foam. The hidden holes are putty and then painted over.
Second closed way installation of the box involves the use of suspensions used in the manufacture of a frame for drywall, or a special mounting system. The metal bar is screwed to the seamy side of the frame with self-tapping screws. The box is inserted into the interior opening, wedged with wooden wedges, the suspension petals are folded onto the wall, fixing with self-tapping screws with plastic dowels.
When installing a door block into a deep interior opening, the frame is not able to cover the entire wall. If the width of the box is not enough, then use. The decorative strips are installed on longitudinal groove frames, having previously greased the lock with glue. If the door frame does not provide for a lock for extras, the strips are fixed through the countersunk holes with self-tapping screws. The optimal fastener pitch is 60 cm.
Before installing the door, the curtain is equipped with fittings. There are awnings on the market different types and flowers. The place for their attachment is determined even before the installation of the box. For the interior sash, the installation of butterfly canopies is popular, which do not require a tie-in.
Two hinges are installed on a light sash, retreating from above and below 25 cm.The heavy canvas is reinforced in the center with a third canopy. At open way fixing the box, the anchors are positioned so that they do not interfere with screwing the hinges with self-tapping screws. If the installation of interior doors was carried out in a hidden way on suspensions, the problem with the location of the fasteners disappears.
The gap between the end of the sash and the hinge frame post must be 6 mm. First, mark the place for fastening at the end of the sash. A recess is selected under the hinge mounting plate with a chisel. The canopies are screwed on with self-tapping screws.
The door leaf together with the hinges is inserted into the box. The sash is spread with wedges so that gaps are formed around the perimeter. On the hinge rack, mark the places for the selection of the grooves. The canvas is removed from the frame, a recess is selected with a chisel, then the second halves of the canopies are screwed on with self-tapping screws.
The handle with the lock is installed at a height of 90 cm from the floor. The body of the locking fittings is applied to the sash at a measured height. With a pencil, mark the location of the handle, outline the boundaries of the castle. At the end of the blade, a recess is chosen with drills or a chisel. A through hole is drilled for the handle. The nest is treated with varnish, a lock is installed, the body is fixed with self-tapping screws, and then the handles are inserted. On the rack of the box opposite the lock, a sample is made, a counter plate of locking fittings is placed.
To install the doors with your own hands without defects, the process of hanging the sash is carried out after the foam has completely hardened.
The final installation of the door block is. Decorative strips are placed on both sides of the interior opening. sell wood, plastic or MDF. The shape can be simple flat, beveled or curly. to the end of the interior box with a lock connection, screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed. The planks can be glued, but the adjoining wall must be perfectly flat and finished with solid cladding.
To carry out a simple installation of door trims, first, a horizontal strip is fastened to the level. The edges are pre-sawn off at an angle of 45o. Vertical planks are installed from the floor. Above, mark the cutting line at a similar angle. The joint is made as tight as possible. In the event of a gap, use a putty. After hardening, the flaws are painted over.
Platbands can be joined at right angles. The upper bar is wound between the vertical elements or placed on top of the end.
The hinged interior sash that opens on the run by children hits the wall with handles. Spoils decorative finishing and even plaster is poured. The installation of a door stop, which does not allow the curtain to open completely, helps.
The stop is a barrel with a rubber attachment. The limiter is installed after the installation of the door block and all finishing work. The interior sash is pushed open to the desired position. The location of the stop is marked on the floor. A hole is drilled with an electric drill, a mounting screw is driven in and the limiter is clamped.
Often, during repairs, only the replacement of the door leaf is required. The procedure is much easier than installing an interior door from scratch.
If a new blade was fitted, the cut points must be masked. Paint and varnish material select a close color or completely repaint the entire canvas.
