Warming the bath from the inside with their own hands is one of the most important stages of alterations or the repair of this structure. Without paying special attention to the issue of high-quality thermal insulation, the owner of the bath should be ready for the fact that its heating costs of the same parley will be much higher, and after a very short time he will again have to think about how to insulate the walls in the bath.
Regarding the situation itself: so that it is truly pleasant and comfortable, competently mounted thermal insulation is necessary. This is the basic requirement in order to insulate the bath inside.
The thermal insulation of the bath from the inside and from the outside in the old days differed from modern the fact that then the question, how to insulate the walls in the bath from the inside, was solved by using such insulation, like, for example, felt, flax or red moss. Yes, these are all natural materials of plant origin. However, their minuses are that those such a very quickly rotate, or dry. And their application was explained only by the lack of more suitable and reliable insulation in those times. And, nevertheless, the bath and thermal insulation are inseparable concepts. That is why for lovers, it was pretty going to get a good question, there was something to insulate the bath from the inside.
What is the insulation of the bath from a similar process, for example, in the house and the better to insulate this room? Bath, this room, in which as long as possible there should be a sufficiently high temperature (heat). And this in turn requires better to perform insulation from, so to speak, the outside world.
Conducting the insulation of the bath with their own hands, it is possible to apply the diverse insulating materials. Optimal option, for example, may be foil stone wool or extruded expanded polystyrene foam (thermoplex). This modern thermal insulation for the bath is capable of withstanding a 750-degree temperature, then you mean completely fireproof, it is perfectly stored heat, not subject to rotting and this material is absolutely not interested in insects or rodents.
In order for the bath to be truly hot, it is necessary, first of all, to choose the most correct thermal insulation materials for this. In addition, depending on which the building is erected, the insulation of such walls of the baths from the inside can be required in more or less. Based on this information, it will be possible to answer the most important questions with confidence: how to insulate the walls in the bath? What is the insulation for the walls to choose? Is it better to insulate this room?
So what is the building built?
If the basis of the bath is concrete, stone or brickwork, the insulation of the bath will be a mandatory procedure. Moreover, the preservation of heat is not the only reason. Bath interior is a wet room. And wet walls susceptible to large temperature drops (and in the baths and saunas it is exactly the case) have a property to quickly collapse.
On the selection of the thickness of the insulation material for the bath with stone, concrete or brick walls, two main factor affect: the thickness of the walls themselves; The climatic zone in which the bathroom is located or sauna. A good specialist in this matter in most cases will recommend to carry out the insulation of the bath with a decheatimeter layer of insulation.
How to insulate a bath from a tree and is it necessary to do this at all? The question is very controversial. On the one hand, the walls of a log or bar themselves are quite warm, perfectly keep the temperature in the steam room and the pre-banker. On the other hand, from additional insulation, definitely worse will not be worse. Even, on the contrary: will give additional defense Walls from the aggressive effects of high temperatures and moisture, which are replete with bathrooms.
Usually baths from a bar or logs are recommended to warm exclusively in the case when the wall thickness does not exceed 15 centimeters. In this case, to insulate the bath from the inside, the insulation layer is simply necessary. The log cabin is insulated only if the log diameter is less than 20 centimeters. Walls and seasplets with greater thickness are either not insulated at all, or only waterproofers and lining applies as protection. The makeup is performed solely if there are noticeable dawns in the walls.
Parosolation for the bath is to lay the appropriate material with strips.
These strips are stapled by the staplers and incubate trays of 5 centimeters.
First, the canvas located below are laid. Fallows are then made to prevent falling under the material of water and steam.
Attention! Since it is strictly for this room with an elevated temperature in the bath, it is strictly forbidden that steam insulation for the bath includes polyethylene.
In order to understand how to warm the bath properly, it is necessary to figure out the materials most suitable for these purposes. The optimal insulation in this case is, as mentioned above, foil stone wool. It is not suitable for this purpose in the absolute majority of cases.
The thickness of this material must be within 10 centimeters. Ceiling overlaps are insulated foil stone Vata. 15-20-centimeter thicknessSince the lion's share of heat from the steam is disappeared precisely through the ceiling and roof.
Grub. The framework of the profile is the most durable option for the brick or stone bath. Most often used CD profile ceiling type; There is an edging of the ceiling perimeter with a UD type guide profile; In increments of 0.6-0.8 meters, direct suspensions are attached; Steps between profiles are made by 1-2 centimeters less than the width of the insulating plate plates.
As for the wooden bath: The insulation of the bathroom wage from the log cabin allows you to save a little. Since the cost of the rover meter of Bruus is an order of magnitude lower than in profiles; At the same time, the durability of such insulation remains at the same level and is limited exclusively to the durability of the materials of the walls themselves.
Foil bath waterproofing. To implement this task, not only water and steamproof, but also heat-resistant material is necessary. Pleases the fact that modern market I am replete with such a kind of materials and decide how the walls of the bath will not be much difficult: an example of such a material can serve foam foam foam foam foam foam, calculated on the temperature load of up to 150 degrees of heat. This material is not only the excellent protection of the walls and the ceiling overlap from dampness. It is also an excellent reflector of the so-called radiant heat, as well as, being foaming, further reduces heat loss. As the manufacturers are assured, the foam foam of 3 millimeters is quite capable of ensuring thermal insulation at the same level as a ram with a thickness of 150 millimeters.
Finishing. Any thermal insulation for the sauna and the bath should always be hidden by a layer material for finishing. To date, the role of such a material traditionally plays wooden lining from aspen or linden.
These rocks of the tree, being even in very and very hot rooms, do not burn. They are also resistant to rotting and practically not subject to corrosion, which allows you to use such lining in the baths and sow even the steam wage.
Solving the question of how to insulate the sauna from the inside, should not also forget about cold floors and drafts that take a very considerable amount of heat. How to solve these problems?
The door to the steam room, or rather, the perimeter of this door should be framed with thick felt. It will reliably bother the gap, through which and disappear so precious warmth.
Wooden windows wash office, steam and pre-bankers should be insulated with cotton wool. If plastic windows are installed in these premises, which, by the way, is not recommended, then the problem is solved by sizing self-adhesive foam stripes.
When the insulation of a sauna or a bath is performed, sex requires attention to himself. And here the course of work depends on the type of this very floor.
Wooden flowing floor is covered with clay. Carefully filled and aligned claying filling is covered with wooden flooring.
The insulation of the flowing concrete floor begins to chip the half-meter depth. Then in the bottom direction, the following "sandwich" is superimposed: 5-centimeter sand layer; 20-centimeter layer of foam; 5-centimeter layer of a mixture of foam crumb and concrete (proportion of 1: 1); waterproofing from rubberoid or polyethylene; 5-centimeter vermiculite layer with concrete (1: 1 proportion); 5-centimeters reinforced tie.
Then the pouring of the screed is performed (in the same stage it is necessary to form a tilt for the unobstructed water drain. The screed is covered with wooden flooring on the lags.
The solid floor having a rough screed is covered with a 10-20-centimeter insulating layer of mineral wool or foam. Waterproofing is stacked on top of it (necessarily with small trams on the walls). The next 5-10-centimeter layer is the reinforced screed, which most often laid a tile coating.
When the steam and thermal insulation of the bath room is performed from the inside, very interesting questions arise: what order is the insulation of the walls in the bath from the inside with their own hands? Does this process have any special nuances that differ from the insulation of some other premises? Taking truth, no, does not have. Heat insulation for baths and saunas, or rather, for their ceiling (ceiling overlap) and walls, it is performed in the same order as any other room.
The main differences consist only in increased payments to the reliability of vaporizolation, so that it is necessary to use non-combustible materials for the bath or sauna.
Sufficient is also the question: is it possible to warm the bath with foam? It is rather not recommended to produce insulation with foaming, since this material is quite strongly afraid of high temperatures, and when melting also begins to distinguish toxic substances, which is fraught with poisoning. Especially this can not be done in the immediate vicinity of the bath furnace. The use of this material is permissible only if the insulation of this room with foam outside is performed.
Before installing the root, all the slots (both inside and outside) are filled mounting foam. The distance of the honey surface of the root and the draft wall or the ceiling must be a little more than the thickness of the insulation. When galvanized profile applies, this distance can be adjusted by suspensions. Wooden bars through the gasket, for example, from pieces of the same timber.
When we carry out the insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside with their own hands, one of the final stages of this process is the laying of draft sheat. Material for this purpose is plasterboard. Working with this material, it is necessary to take into account several rules:
As can be seen, the insulation of the bath inside and outside - the process is not archent, and the thermal insulation of the sauna does not require the presence of a builder's diploma. All this is practically anyone. If you need visual example How and how to insulate the bath from the inside with their own hands, on the pages of our site you can find a video of thematic orientation.
Outdoor or internal bleat bleat is necessary. So reduce fuel consumption and slow down the process of cooling air indoors. If the design is not insulated, then heated the steam room to the desired temperature will have several times longer.
Before building the building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces on thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process starts during construction, more precisely, from the foundation laying.
Cheap solutions (impregnations, septics) The role of good thermal insulation will not be performed. Of course, the protection against moisture is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to warm the bathrooms separately using the materials specially created for this. Most attention is paid to the inside of the wax and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is made with the calculation on the draft building material.
One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in the bath under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Ungigroscopicity is also important, the insulation in no case should absorb moisture.
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When choosing a specific material, it is necessary to rely on the following characteristics:
All insulation presented in the construction markets are divided into three conventional groups:
Of course, only 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used, which brought from the nearest forests. This is a foam, panel or moss. Today it is already partly elite kinds of insulation, they are serious money due to the need for their manual collection. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or packles. Such material can be bought in construction stores. As for MCH, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. It is said that moss is a non-ideal material for insulation, because it provokes the rise of mold or fungi. However, Moss himself does not have such properties, most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper cutting of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.
The laying procedure and the required volume of work depends on the material from which the bath is built.
Working with a bar or a log, you need to take into account the time on the dermistem, which can be 10 cm more. Plus, the cracks are formed between the crowns of such buildings, just in them and plays cold air. It is best to log cabbage or an assembly from a bar to insulate the jute fiber.
This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute himself is a very continuing material, so manufacturers try to add linen fibers to it. But if there is already a critical material available, you can perform classic constraints. So there will be less work, and the construction will surely keep more heat.
If it is decided to create a bath from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction.It is better to isolate all the problem parts of the log in the process.
Work is performed by such a sequence:
If the logs are insulated by a primitive way, then with masonry will have to work hard. And financial investments are more on working with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is needed, otherwise the well-heated room will cool for the clock. It is better to work, invested in materials than the remaining time to stock up fuel.
Comable and proven method - this is a mounted ventilated facade. The workflow is not from the inside, but on the outdoor side of the bath. It is necessary to fix the layers of insulation to the walls, and on top to wash siding or clapboard. In the interval between the layers, the space filled with air is formed, due to which the condensate will not be formed on the walls and will not follow rotting and dampness.
The width of the frame under the ventilated facade is made more than the thickness of the insulation, so an air gap is formed, preventing condensate formation
For brick buildings, the following trick is often practiced: indoors are paired from wood. Brick is very long brushed warm, so a small pair of steam room is easier to warm up the natural way, if you use a small frame.
Sufficient bar 10x10 and doomles. The process of insulation of such an improvised steam room inside a large bath is simple:
It can be done even easier: do not use the bar, but instead it immediately fasten the insulation on the frame. In this case, an additional layer of waterproofing will be needed.
We warm all the surfaces of the steam room, waving and pre-tribades. And for this you will need:
From the tools you will need:
Any insulation steps are always performed on the golden rule - start from the ceiling and finish the floors.
Before you start working with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the material steam room you need 2 times more. After all, we are not working on the sauna, but above the Russian bath, where the couples should linger as much as possible.
This technology is:
The foil layer reflects heat, so the use of such material for the bath is necessary
In the ceiling, the insulation is better laying in two or three layers with overlapping the junction places
For frame bath The insulation on the ceiling and the wall must be put, but for the brusade and log can be caught without it. For example, if the bath is made of a log, its ceiling is enough to sew thick boards - not less than 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable for the ceiling as a heater - only laying it is needed by a layer at least 15 cm.
The best solution for the insulation of the walls is a designer from materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.
The structure of the insulation of the walls of the baths is reminiscent of the device of roofing cake
And finally, we will work on the floor. After all, a large amount of heated air is destroyed through it. As a heater for floors, clamzit is most often used - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation, which prevents the appearance of mold and condensate.
Cheaper, of course, wake up everything slag, but the ceramzite is more environmentally friendly and less weighs. When wooden floors, the material is placed between lags. If the concrete floor is poured, the ceramzite is laid between each concrete layer.
We will analyze the usual cycle of work on the warming of concrete floor.
In addition to the walls, the floor and the ceiling still pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are treated with silicone sealants. Exterior doors are taken to insulate natural materials. And they are not accepted on them, otherwise in a few years, and even to the future season will have to redo everything.
In order for the bathroom to please the heat, lack of drafts and dampness, it is necessary to properly insulate the walls, gender and ceiling. You also need to know which insulation is best used for outdoor or internal work.
Basic requirements for material insulation bath.
Materials that can be used for internal and external work are divided into three types.
Also, insulation can be divided according to the composition and filling.
When insulating the bath, it is necessary to shelter the insulation all the planes of the room: the floor, walls and ceiling. Only in this case there will be no leaks of heat and water procedures will be as comfortable and pleasant as possible.
Bath insulation must be started from the floor. As a rule, indoors with high humidity The arrangement of two types of floors is practiced: leaking and solid. Solid structures are supplemented with central drain, and flowing are equipped with a crate, which water flows into the drain, mounted below the level of the first floor.
Paul under the wood crate, through the water goes away, reminds a multi-layered sandwich from different materials. All materials for insulation need to be mounted sequentially.
To arrange the flowing floors with insulation, it is necessary to dig a hole with a depth of 60 cm. The sizes of the pit should coincide with the perimeter of the washer or steam room.
The bottom of the pit should be smooth and dry. At the bottom it is required to pour a pillow from the sand and carefully tackle it. Pillow height - 5-6 cm.
Plates from foam plates are laid on top of the sand. The material must be a width of at least 20 cm. The joints of the slabs should be carefully adjusted to each other, there should be no gaps.
The solution consisting of a mixture of cement and finely cropped foam, 50-60 mm thick, poured over the plates. The solution should dry.
Over concrete screed Waterproofing material is stacked, you can use a conventional runner. The edges of the rubberoid should be laid on the walls on the walls.
A cement screed is poured on the backruvoid, in which the vermiculite is added 1 to 1. Screed thickness - 50 mm.
Reinforcement. For these purposes, the reinforcing grid is laid on the screed.
On top of the grid again poured a screed of concrete, into which a small crushed stone is added, the recommended layer thickness is 50 mm.
Installation of columns to support wooden floor.
Floor flooring with technical gaps, through which water will go.
Important: Installation of the plum pipe must be carried out before warming up. The last layer of the screed must be flooded under a slight bias to the plum so that the water does not accumulate on the concrete floor.
The insulation of solid floors indoors is carried out in the same way as in residential buildings.
Laying insulation is best carried out at construction work. Optimally to build a double floor design: rough and clean.
Insulation, the most suitable technical characteristics And the price, for example, mineral wool, is located between the piston and rough layer of boards. On the top it is recommended to lay a waterproofing material that will preserves the wetting of the insulation.
It's important to know! In the washing best to lay ceramic tiles, resistant to high humidity.
Brick baths are insulated during construction. You can use both bulk and stove material. Bulk insulation, such as clamzit, falling asleep with layers, between which the lime solution is poured. The layer fill reduces the thermal conductivity of the walls due to the filling of emptiness with a solution.
The insulation in the form of plates is attached to the walls with the help of special accessories. On top of the plates, it is recommended to additionally mount a vapor insulator that protects the insulation from moisture and high temperatures.
Panel and frame baths are insulated with lightweight materials that do not create additional load on the frame. Foam, polystyrene foam, cartotic or fibrolite plates are the most the best insulation For frame structures. The material is attached to the walls, there should be no gaps between the plates. On top of the insulation necessarily mounted a layer of vapor barrier, which prevents the absorption of moisture with the plates.
For insulation of walls and ceiling from natural tree The most successful option is mats of glass gambles or mineral plates.
Also, special demand is used with a single-sided layer of foil - an avoor, URSA - these materials perform two functions at once: are a vaporizolytor and insulation.
In the regions with a cold climate, the use of several types of insulation materials immediately is practiced, which contributes to the minimization of heat loss.
For the internal insulation of the bath bar from the bar requires the following materials and tools:
Assembling frame from brusons. Mates with insulation will be mounted inside the frame. The recommended shap shaft step is 50 per 50 cm. Bruses self-pressing are screwed to log walls and a bantle ceiling.
Placing insulation inside the frame. Plates should fit tightly to timber. It is important that the thickness of the insulation is no more than 5 cm.
All stoves placed inside the frame are required to secure. For these walls, construction wide tape is suitable for these purposes. All joints between the timber and insulation are sticking with sticky ribbon. For fastening plates to the ceiling requires to purchase plastic dowels of a plate-type. The seams are also recommended to be stuck with scotch.
On top of the main insulation, an avoor or another vapor polypoletor with a foil is mounted.
On top of the irregular, the lamp is stuck from a bar. The second fence will perform 2 functions: provide an air layer and serve a frame for fastening the wall paneling.
Fastening lining.
Mounting insulating material from the street on the walls of the bath is recommended in several cases: if the air temperature in the winter is constantly holding below 20 degrees (regions with a cold climate) or if the bathroom is connected to heating system at home. It is also recommended to further insulate the structures that are built from blocks or bricks.
Fix the insulation to the walls of the baths from logs or bauses is considered inappropriate, especially in regions with a temperate and warm climate, but it is necessary to seal all the gaps and joints between wooden crowns and bars. For these purposes, felt, jute ropes, moss or special silicone sealants are used.
Brick and blocks - affordable building materials, so they are often used to build a bath.
The thermal conductivity of bricks and blocks is quite high, due to which they poorly hold warm. Accordingly, in the baths built from these materials, it is recommended to carry out a double insulation: outside and inside.
Fastening the frame. For a frame, you can use a wooden timber or metal profile. Frames mounted on anchors.
Between the framework of the frame is the insulation: mineral wool, foam or polystyrene foam.
All the joints between the insulation and the frame are stuck with reinforcing scotch.
Ideally, you need to mount two layers of the insulation. The second layer of material must overlap the seams of the first. Thus, heat losses are absolutely minimized and the appearance of drafts in the washing and steam room is preventing. But this method is not popular at the expense of additional consumption of material.
Installation of waterproofing film. On top of the insulation, moisture and windproof protection is attached.
Planks or special brackets are stipulated over the film. On them attached finishing finishing material: Siding or lining. Between the film and the finish finish, it is required to leave the technical gap (5-6 cm) for air circulation. Airbag will prevent the accumulation of condensate and the appearance of mold on the inside of the finishing finishing material.
Properly insulated bath saves warmth for a long time. With the right selection and consistent attachment of all materials, there are no drafts, dampness and unpleasant smell in the premises.
Tradition, wellness effect Bath, utilitarian need or method of organizing leisure is some arguments in favor of their own bath. Owners of private houses and country cottages with a bathing of a bath face in the process of construction and operation with such issues as the need to ensure slow cooling of bathrooms. The solution is to thermal insulation of walls, gender, bath ceiling. Consider how to do it right.
Yes, it is necessary, thermal insulation:
To get all the listed benefits need to take care of proper insulation Baths, saunas, steam room. At the same time there are no obstacles to self-insulation: the front works are small, the technology is not complicated, the material and the tool are available. Recommendations I. step-by-step instruction It will help to organize the process "from A to Z", even for beginners without experience in construction.
A detailed analysis, as and what can be insulated with a bath, which side is better (from the inside or outside), where to start and how to finish.
1. From the position of the placement of the insulation
As you can see, the process of insulation is complex.
2. From the position of the heat insulating material used
The domestic building market presents different types of insulation. Do not forget that the bath can provide a wellness effect only if natural and safe thermal insulation materials are used indoors.
Consider what insulation for the sauna, the steam rooms are better and meets the sets.
Known for a long time, our ancestors have sought to protect the battered bathhouse from the heat loss using the remedies. Raw materials for the manufacture of organic insulation are natural natural materials. Among the common can be allocated:
The indisputable advantage of the listed materials is naturalness. Among the disadvantages - fire danger, the ability to absorb moisture, the complexity of use, attractiveness for rodents and microorganisms.
For the manufacture, natural raw materials are used, however, glue compositions are used in the production process, which eliminates the warming of the steaming with their use. These include:
Manufactured in production conditions and are combined into two subspecies:
The exception is the foil insulation of foamizol, which is used in the pair, due to the presence of a foil layer from aluminum, which prevents the loss of infrared heat radiation. The use of foamizol is allowed by standards;
3. From the position of the material from which the bath was built
Choosing isolation and method of insulation need to take into account the material used to build a bath and climatic features in the region. These conditions will determine the thickness of the insulation.
The newly built bath (folded from the log or bar) does not need insulation. Wood keeps warm, plus, internet insulation performs thermal insulation function. Over time, the log house gives shrinkage and after two or three years between the crowns appear slits through which heat leaves.
In case of warming, waterproofing and selection of thermal insulator plays an important role. It is recommended to perform interventovate caispatic with natural materials or apply basalt wool, because Due to its structure, it contributes to the preservation of the microclimate and allows the tree to "breathe."
In addition to the glued or profiled bar, a rounded log is used to build a bath. Due to the mechanical processing, such a log shrink is less, therefore, the requirements for insulation, in particular to the arrangement of the frame, below. In general, the warming of a church is performed similarly to the thermal insulation of the bath bar.
The frame or skeleton provides excellent opportunities for the placement of thermal insulation material. Frame design It is considered the most energy efficient.
For insulation of a frame bath, it is better to use soft high density insulation, protected by membranes from humidity (fit inside the walls). An organic insulation can also be used, in particular a mixture of sawdust, chips, plaster and lime. Such a composition serves as a full insulation (stacked between the layers of the casing).
Despite the high thermal conductivity of the brick, the baths of it are often found. A serious lack of bricks in its ability to quickly freeze, and this leads to significant heating costs. therefore brick baths Usually have internal wooden framewhich performs a decorative function, and it is great for him heat insulation material.
Foam concrete or aerated concrete - materials used in modern building baths. Advantage mesh concrete In a porous structure that keeps warm well. But this material is distinguished by low-attractive external speciesplus, able to absorb moisture (especially aerated concrete, with his open pores). Since wet wall material Does not hold warm, then foam blocks need insulation, which is performed outside.
The feature of the insulation of foam block baths (as well as from aerated concrete and ceramzite-concrete blocks) is that the material requires a device of good ventilation. Therefore, in a warmed bath necessarily make a product.
4. From the position of the front of the work performed
As the brief overview of the materials showed, each of them needs to be applied, taking into account the placement and construction material of the bath. Therefore, we consider how to insulate the walls in the bath from the inside in the context of individual directions.
The direction of thermal insulation of the walls depends on which function does the room performs.
The pair is the most important part of the bath. The temperature in the steam room can reach 90 ° C (Russian bath) and 130 ° C (sauna). Maintain such a temperature is difficult and expensive, if not executed high-quality insulation Steam in the bath. Only natural materials can be used in the steam room. Basalt wool, laid in the frame or natural insulation, has perfectly proven itself, for those who are not ready to navigate the natural beauty of wood.
Warming Technology:
Important! The specifics of the wool laying in the steam room is that metal guides cannot be used, and only a tree, in addition, it is necessary to consider the temperature fluctuations and the ability of wood expand / shrink under their effect.
To level the temperature fluctuations, the framework of the frame in the bar makes vertical feeders, through which the timber is attached to the wall. The presence of grooves allows the guide to move along the wall, they also compensate for the possible shrinkage of the walls if the bath is built from the bar.
Warming Technology:
Sawdust - 10 parts;
- cement - 0.5 parts;
- water - 2 parts;
- Lime - 1 part (used as an antiseptic);
Jute - jute rope, ribbon, felt, inter-night insulation (organic material)
Thermal insulation is performed using a special tool - a wooden hammer, a mall (weight of 300-400 gr.), The chisels and a caulkuty blades.
Seeling slots between logs, timber: jute are placed (scored) into interventic gaps, while you need to put the material as close as possible.
The washing department, the pre-banker or rest room have a smaller temperature, so foam plastic can be used to insulate the walls in these rooms.
Operating procedure:
Recommendation. Wall insulation near the furnace is performed only by basalt cotton with a metal finish (protective screen) around the stove. This is due to the fact that the wool has a high melting point and does not support burning.
An important direction of thermal insulation works, because Through the roof is quite a lot of heat. If the roof is well insulated, the ceiling insulation can be deleted. However, it is possible to insulate the roof only if the bath is a detached building from the scope roof. For insulation, you can apply any thermal insulation material that is stacked on the floor of the attic.
The order of work when using synthetic insulation, wool or foam, is no different from its laying on the wall.
Execution scheme:
Note. In the pure form of sawdust are used only in wooden houses.
Sawdust - 8 parts;
- Lime - 1 part;
- Gypsum - 1 part.
First mix dry materials, and then water is added to the desired consistency.
There is a second recipe:
Sawdust - 5 parts;
- Clay - 5 parts.
In this case, the clay is soaked in water, divorced to the consistency of sour cream and mixed with sawdust.
Council. Instead of sawdust, you can use a straw (tightly naked).
Effective insulation will be a layer of sawing mixture of 100 mm.
Note that the insulation of the bath is logical from the ceiling. After all, warm air is going under the ceiling, which means it is a source of heat loss. Insulation technology depends on the material used.
For thermal insulation, the ceiling in the steam room uses basalt wool, which is stacked by the same technology as on the wall - with the arrangement of the framework.
The insulation of the ceiling of the bath sawdust is performed according to the principle of heat insulation cold roof (attic overlap). The sawdust is placed in a plastic bag and laid into the frame made on the ceiling or between the beams of overlapping.
Recommendation. Heating the ceiling, you need to remember that at the exit of the heating pipe is very high temperatures. In this place, only basalt wool can be used as a material having a very high melting point and not supporting combustion. The passage of the pipe through the ceiling is closed with a metal overlay from a stainless steel (reflective, protective screen for the furnace pipe).
Instead, sawdust on the ceiling can be used clay, covered in the frame. But it has considerable weight and hygroscopicity. Therefore, according to reviews, users refused this material in favor of others.
The floor in the bath can be concrete or wooden. Depending on the type used different technologies Heat insulation. The insulation of concrete floor can be performed by clay or foam.
Procedure:
It is worth noting that the ceramzite can be placed without using a screed. To do this, the frame is made from wooden bar. Ceramzite falls asleep in the frame cells, the waterproofing film is stacked on it and the fine flooring of a wooden floorboard is covered. However, this method is not suitable for steam and washer, where high level humidity.
Considering how to insulate the floor in the bath, it is better to give preference concrete base With the subsequent laying on it tiles (if it is a washing or pre-banker), or a wooden flooring, which is better to use in the steam room:
Concrete floor in the bath is a practical solution, since it is resistant to the action of moisture, and the service life is 3-4 times longer than the life of the wooden floor on the lags.
A more modern and technological method of insulation. However, many users believe that heat the pair with the use of synthetic material (in fact, the penplex is extruded polystyrene foam) incorrectly, because under influence high temperatures is he . Therefore, Penopelex is used in other rooms, with a lower temperature.
Another option that is gradually gaining popularity - a warm floor in the bath. Its essence is that the pipes are mounted in the screed, creating a warm circuit, which moves the heated water (water floor). Thus, it is not about insulation, but on how to make heating of the floor in the bath. And these are different concepts.
Warming of doors and windows in the bath also helps to increase the energy efficiency of the room. To reduce heat losses, window and doorways initially make minimally admissible (in particular the door to the steam room), and the windows are also closer to the floor surface. But it is necessary to warm them all the same, for this it is necessary to install hermetic glass windows and seals on the contour of windows and doors.
Performing the insulation of the bath with your own hands, should not forget about the arrangement of high-quality ventilation. This will have a positive effect not only on the health of the baths of the bath, but also on the properties of the finishing materials.
Unlike the equipment of residential premises in SPA zones, internal and external energy-saving clades play a completely different role. The relevance of the outer thermal insulation of the walls of the bath depends, first of all, from the mode of its operation. In most cases, the procedure is not mandatory and requires a feasibility study. This review examines the insulation of the bath outside with their own hands with organizational and technological points of view.
If the owner assumes the episodic use of an object for its intended purpose (no more than once a week), it expects a full cooling of the steam room between sessions. That is, internal insulation is placed at the calculation of rapid flowing with a rise of temperature from outdoor to 60 ° C - 90 ° C. In this case, the installation of thermal insulation from the street does not make sense: in winter This measure will not save the construction from freezing within 3 - 4 days. The cooling of the room will slow down, but as a result, it will be necessary to spend almost as much as the energy of energy as the absence of an outdoor isolation.
When using a pair every 2 - 3 days, the question "What to sew a bath outside?" No longer idle for materials with high heat capacity (brick, concrete). Daily exploitation (for example, for commercial purposes) makes the appropriate bathing of the bath with insulation materials on both sides regardless of the type of bearing walls.
Another option of using a bath, justifying bilateral insulation, regardless of the heat capacity and vapor permeability of the draft walls, is holding several paired sessions within one day. At the same time, the bath day may repeat not often.
It should immediately make a reservation: the insulation of a wooden bath from the street is, as a rule, not in the installation of additional layers, but in the sealing of interventic joints. This operation relates not to outdoor insulation, but to ensure the main thermal insulation, the role of which plays the structural material. Nevertheless, if the owner of the bathhouse is enough time, he may well blow it high quality on its own.
Insulation outside jute rope
Seals laid on the joints of the logs, operate as hydrophobic elements and windproof barrier. They eliminate the heat transfer convection and, at the same time, are decorative elements that emphasize the aesthetics of a log structure. Specialists engaged in log houses recommend using a jute cord for outering.
In some cases, it is permissible to pry wooden bath Outside with the help of latex or rubber-based sealants. However, it is permissible only in those baths in which there is no interior decoration. The condition is associated with the prevention of moisture condensation between the walls of the wall, which can provoke the joint use of internal insulation and outdoor steamproof sealing.
How to insulate the bath outside if it is assumed not to seal the joints, namely the installation of thermally insulation facing? Consider the types of bearing walls:
Before the insulation of the bath is needed a literary calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer
Of the two methods of selection of the insulation relative to the structural material, it makes sense to use the dew point shift method. What does this mean? A thermal insulator is taken with vapor permeability close to zero (for example, polystyrene foam) and pasted on a draft wall. The inner insulation also contains impenetrable layer - foil infrared screen. It turns out that moisture condensed into the thickness of concrete or brick, there is nowhere to evaporate.
So that there is no convergence, it is necessary to ensure the location of the dew point outside the draft wall - in polystyrene foam. For this, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the outer insulation to about the heat resistance of the wall 4.0 - 5.0.
In the middle lane of Russia, this corresponds to the thickness of the EPPS 200 mm plates.
The material will cost a decent amount, but the budget of the work will be less than when implementing the technology of the ventilated facade (with mineral wool, air gap and handling finishing). In addition, self-enclosure of walls with EPPS plates is much more affordable for unprofessional than any other ways. outdoor thermal insulation. With everyday operation, such a steam room in the inner cladding should be left only to the reflective screen and lining with the clapboard. For paired sessions 2 - 3 times a week, it makes sense to divide the calculated thickness of the insulation by 2 layers: 150 mm for the outer surface and 50 mm for the inner lining.
The choice of finishing finish from the street should relate only to the budget, the possibility of self-realization and personal aesthetic preferences. From the point of view of the warming sandwich physical properties This layer is absolutely not important. If there is no desire to contact the plaster, you can separate the bath with any relatively light plates or panels that differ in moisture resistance. The main thing is not to use chemicals that can destroy polystyrene foam.
Bath insulation outside Polyopolisol
How to seize a bath built from cellular materials? For independent work, all the same expanded polystyrene should be held.
The only difference with the previous version of the bath will be that the thermal calculation will require a smaller layer thickness of the EPPS (120 - 150 mm), with other things being equal to the climate, the thickness of the masonry and the predetermined value of the heat transfer resistance of the wall sandwich.
This idea may look strange, but the cut is sometimes required "fur coat". Especially if we are talking about re-equipment of the bath with the change of the purpose of the object (for example, from personal on commercial). The only insulation, the vapor permeability of which is higher than the wood is mineral wool. However, minus this ventiy is associated with a large working capacity. You will need:
Often in information texts and on forums you can meet the following statements:
If the insulation of the outer surface of the walls is initially assumed, it is necessary to conduct a series of thermal calculations and coordinate the parameters of all layers - from the infrared pair to decorative finish facade. At the same time, the amounts saved on energy saving should be poisoned with the difference in capital expenditures, adopting the achievement of a certain period of payback period.
There are no bad or good insulation. The temperature and humidity mode of the operation of multilayer walls is provided by the entire system, and not one insulator. Therefore, the approximate operating schedule of the steam room should determine the choice of not only cladding, but also the structural material of the walls. The more denser the schedule, the more popular inserted inertia (high heat capacity) and high allowable waters:
Internal insulation is permissible to choose, based on the convenience self-mount. With outdoor, it is much more stricter. At once, several characteristics of the insulator should be coordinated with the properties of the structural material of the walls.
