Bath insulation, and even more so framework needs to be done correctly. Material for insulation frame design It is necessary to choose an eco-friendly and non-combustible, while with high heating saving properties. How to insulate a frame bathtub correctly and choose the best material, you can see reading the article to the end.
A skeleton bath without additional insulation of the walls will be cold and it will be impossible to use it.
Insulation for frame bath It is better to use in the form of mats.
If you choose the insulation that is not enough or put it with an insufficient layer, then the functions of the steam wage will be lost. Materials for insulation of frame bathhouse are natural and artificial. Bath and synthetic insulation are incompatible, of course, the design will be cheap, but some of the heating can highlight harmful pairs. Natural belongs:
To artificial:
In their shape for a frame bath, choose types: tiled or matte. Roller is also suitable, but it will be more complicated to lay it in skeletin pie. Cut and lay the insulation in the form of plates or mats will be able to any newcomer, it is enough to understand the technology and read this article.
Heater from wood fibers is made of sawn waste. The base of the wood fibers that are associated with different synthetic fibers. It is without allergenic and when laying does not cause irritation on the skin. Materials are made by recycling sawn timber. The erroneous opinion is that a similar insulation from waste paper makes. Thanks to the ability to absorb moisture and also quickly give it to the skeleton bath will breathe as a full-fledged wooden. One of the bright representatives of the insulation on wood fibers is an eclaw, the price of which is from 120 r. / kg.
The main minus is just in the property to absorb moisture. If the hood in the bath is made with errors, then humidity can long linger in the wall design and they will start rot.
Basalt cotton wool is made of mineral fibers with their adhesive composition. The main advantages include:
The main minus of the material was opened at the end of 2014. Previously, it was considered one of the most eco-friendly materials. It turned out that the adhesive composition used for gluing basalt fibers can highlight minor pairs of formaldehyde. Increased or no reaction during heating the research steers was not conducted.
Mats from flax began to use not so long ago. The material is made of compressed flax fibers. There are no additives, such as formalin. The material is completely environmentally friendly and can absorb - to produce moisture. And because of a dense press, the plates have a high ability to save heat.
The main minus plates is an insufficient test of time and rodents. Mice love to build nests in linen fiber and tear down in the walls of the hole. Over time, the bath will lose its thermal insulation properties.
Glass gaming during operation sends fine particles of fiberglass. who are dangerous to human health. The glass gamble is made of glass fibers associated with synthetic glue. With the material it is difficult to work with your own hands, as the fiber gets into the air is settled on the skin and fall into airways. They can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.
Pluses the glass gambles are no less:
If the choice fell on the glass gamble, then all the work on the insulation of the frame bath must be performed in protective clothing and respirator.
Polyfoam can be used to insulate the walls of the frame bath. Polystyrene foam is made by foaming polystyrene. Moreover, the larger and fewer air bubbles in the material, the higher its heat insulating properties. One of the bright representatives of the foam. Heat the walls of the frame bath with foam can be, but not recommended. Especially warm the ceiling and space near chimneys. Polystyrethillets has a high fire hazard. He fats from any spark. If the design is insulated with foam, the cake must have protection. The material has a number of advantages:
Any of the listed materials are used to insulate the frame bath. The main thing to run the laying, observing, all the rules.
You can warm the frame bath in two ways:
Classic frame of insulation of the frame bath is performed from the inside of the structure. Classic insulation consists of a cake: vapor barrier, insulation, vaporizolation, interior decoration.
Paro - waterproofing is performed from the inside the bath after the boards or panels from sawdust are fixed from the outside. Vaporizolation laid right on them and frame bar. Mounting material must be cleaned by 10-15 cm. The joints are sickling with scotch. Materials can be attached directly to the tree with a construction staple.
The insulation is placed in the formed cells. Standard heater thickness 50 mm and 100 mm. If the bath will be used round year, then 100 mm is taken and stacked in two layers. This layer will be enough for the steam room to keep warm in winter temperatures up to -35 ° C. For the southern regions, one layer is sufficient 100 mm.
The bath used only in the summer seasons does not require solid insulation, therefore it is enough to lay 1-2 layers of 50 mm.
When installing the joints should be as small as possible, and in the places where the insulation does not fit the protection to be performed using mounting foam. The second layer of plates is placed on the first so that the tops of the upper do not coincide with the lower. Fasten the insulation can be special fungal screws. They have a wide hat that will securely attach material to the wall. If foam plastic is selected as insulation, then it can be glued with conventional tile glue to the wall.
The next layer again stacked vaporizolation. Many are missing this layer, but it is necessary when using a material that absorbs water, for example is an eco.
A foil membrane material is used as waterproofing. It is placed in foil to the steam, the joints are stuck with foil scotch. Waterproofing such material will play not only the protective function from moisture, but also help keep heat into the wage, reflecting it.
Polyfoam to the facade of the baths are fixed with the help of adhesive composition. Outdoor insulation is optional. For a frame bath, it is better to make a ventilated facade, so condensate will not accumulate under the trim of the facade and the walls will serve longer. Usually the insulation of the facade of the bath is performed by foam.
Initially, the walls are made of metallic profiles or 40x40 mm beams. Before installation, the timber is covered with an antiseptic or liquid glass that penetrates deep into the tree and protects it from various detrimental effects.
The shadow step depends on the width of the insulation sheet. If the foam has a width of 60 cm, then the step should correspond to it. Bashed to the walls of the foam can be special screws or glue. The material is lightweight and glued it alone.
If the insulation of the facade is additional, then you do not need to take too thick insulation. Mounting vaporizolation on the foam is not necessary, it, so it will push the water, and the air does not penetrate the material. The crate is fixed by a counter-crate and mount the finish, such as siding or timing panels.
Before insulation, the external framework of the frame and the design itself is covered with antiseptics. If this is not done, then any moisture hit will be critical for the bath.
The insulation design resembles a multi-layer pie, eliminating the layers of the steps from which it is not worth it. Perform the warming of the frame bath with your own hands is easy, but laborious. Not everyone can make the finishing of the whole design with their own hands, so you can refer to specialists. On average, the insulation of the frame bath in Russia is from 200 r. / M². In terms of wall size, the service is not cheap. Cheaper to do everything yourself, and you can work and gradually.
The steam room is a building that is operated in an increase in temperature. Therefore, the requirements for such a construction are quite high. In the construction of the bath, thermal insulation plays a special role. One of the important points in the construction of the steam room is the insulation of a frame bath. It is the right organization and high quality material that allows you to maintain heat indoors, thereby increasing the life of the structure. But before you begin to warm the bath with your own hands, you should consider in more detail. possible options Production of work.
If we consider the shape of the insulation, then they can be the three most common types:
The first two forms are easy to lay on the walls, cutting the material into squares or small mats. But the rolled type of thermal insulation is suitable if you beat the work with specialists who have sufficient experience in insulation. Insulation for frame bath can also be divided into natural and artificial.
The natural insulation belongs to those.
Choosing the form and composition, take into account all factors: both environmental friendliness, and non-combustible, and hygroscopicity. But despite the many advantages of using natural materials, some prefer artificial insulation. Therefore, to choose the appropriate option for construction, you need to consider all options.
Insulating materials
Artificial materials are often cheaper, more durable, easier in laying.
Artificial insulation for baths
| Name | pros | Minuses |
| Polystyrene foam (foam). | This is an economy option with which it is easy to work. Excellent thermal insulation properties, waterproof. | But at the same time, he has high fire hazards and highlights harmful substances at high temperatures. |
| Fiberglass. | Comparatively inexpensive material with good thermal insulation properties. Easy mounted. | Work with hands without gloves with it is difficult: sometimes it causes allergic reactions. May also annoy the respiratory tract. |
| Equata. | Safe for health insulation, which does not cause allergic reactions. Creates good noise insulation and simple in laying. | The disadvantage of the material is considered a minus, the formation of voids during the insulation shrinkage and gradually reducing thermal insulation properties. |
Also, sawdust, sawdust and mineral wool and many other materials at the discretion of the host can also be used for insulation. If it is a summer bath, then on thermal insulation you can save. But for the construction, which is planned to operate and in winter timeIt is better to choose reliable and high-quality materials.
This process begins with their erection. To do this, a wooden or metal lamp is attached to the wall frame, which is stacked by insulating material. Then the phased insulating material is then covered with a layer of waterproofing. Similarly, the walls inside the bath. Only here after laying insulation, thermal insulation is covered with vapor insulation followed by decorative facing.
There should be no space between these layers. And the facade material is used to cover the waterproofing. Thus, you will have a kind of pie, the main layers of which will be with the outer side of waterproofing, and with the internal - vaporizolation.
To prevent the formation of cracks in the heat-insulating layer, experts are recommended to lay two layers of the insulation in the framework of the bath. The best choice To work there will be a tiled and rolled material. Moreover, in the process of insulation, it is worth paying attention to the external and internal side, which can be determined using the manufacturer's instruction.
Special attention must be paid to the insulation of the walls around the stove.
Here you need to be extremely prudent and organize additional defense From the effects of high temperatures. For this, the asbestos cooker, basalt fabrics or needle-free mats fit. You can lay such protection on vaporizolation or simply on decorative trim - this moment is determined exclusively by your preferences.
The best option for vapor barrier will be the use of foil. It can withstand high temperatures and has good fire safety indicators. But the polyethylene film should not be laid for vapor barrier. When operating a steam room, it can simply melt. Not only the quality of thermal insulation will depend on the material selection, but also the wall thickness after the end of all works.
The heat loss in the steam room can occur due to lapty overlaps, so it is necessary to take care of this at the construction stage. The principle of working with the ceiling is practically no different from actions during the insulation of the walls of the frame bath. For this, the vaporizolation layer is stacked. The insulation is then fixed, to which one more paosoolent layer is mounted. All this design is trimmed with a decorative layer. But in this case there should be a small space between the trim and vapor barrier material, which will give the ability to speed up the ceiling drying.
The work process is quite simple, but still, making thermal insulation in the bath with your own hands, you need to clearly follow the instructions. It is necessary to thoroughly think about what exactly you would like to see and what insulation is best suited for the future sauna. Indeed, in this case, it is not necessary to save, it is necessary to take a choice with full responsibility. The use of high-quality materials, firstly, protects a person from harmful toxins, which can be allocated with an increase in air temperature in the sauna, and secondly, improves fire safety indicators, increasing the stability of the insulator to the fire. Therefore, choosing cheap materials, a person risks primarily his health.
Performed during the arrangement of the bath. To do this, it is necessary to prepare and carefully tumped the soil. Then make the main screed, bay square concrete. At this stage, it is also worth taking care of the plum. To do this, concrete must be pouring under the tilt.
When a concrete screed will be ready to hold further workcan begin to apply the waterproofing layer of polyethylene or rubberoid. After that, the insulation is laid, followed by the filling of the second waterproofing layer, and again the floor is poured with concrete.
On the concrete surface put the tile wooden boards Or another facing layer - by choosing the host. Floor material in different rooms A frame bath may vary. For example, the rest of the rest is laminate or put a tile. But for the wax office or steam room, wooden boards are better fit. But in this case, there must be small gaps between them, which prevent stagnation of water on the floor surface.
Such frame structures, as the bath, it is simply necessary heat insulation, since the main function that the high-quality steam should be performed is not just maintaining heat, but maintenance high temperatures in room. Therefore, many nuances of thermal insulation must be carried out in accordance with the technological requirements. And selecting high-quality material and performing work according to the instructions, you can not only determine the best way For budget, but also to exclude heat loss in the steam room and fully enjoy the rest with friends or close people.
Properly produced warming work ensure the safety of heat inside the room, improving the quality of the functioning of the steam room and the service life of the materials.
The skeleton bath is one of the most economical solutions. performance characteristics Almost never inferior to more expensive analogues from a natural bar.
Frame Bath - Project and Construction
For most areas of our country, it is enough to have a thickness of the walls of a frame bath 10 cm. The insulation of frame walls can be made both mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. A layer of mineral wool thickness of only 13 cm on thermal conductivity replaces the thickness of the walls from a bar of 50 cm. We remind those who are afraid that the skeleton bath is too cold. Now count the difference in the price of materials. To this difference should be added even the costs of the additional insulation of the barbed bath all the same mineral wool.
For the regions of the Far North with very cold winters there are two ways to improve the indicators of the bathing of the bath.
Later on polystyrene foam slabs, a thin screed is made using a reinforcing mesh and the finish painting coating is applied. The structure looks very beautiful, it costs rather cheaply, and in the heat saving indicators a lot of buildings familiar to us from the bar are much strung.
We made up step-by-step instructions The insulation of a frame bath for cold climatic zones, developers independently make an optimal option for themselves.
A few words must be said about the features of such types of buildings. This method was first used in Finland, then experience was adopted in America and there are more than 60% of all buildings on this technology. Light buildings (much reduced losses for the construction of the foundation), warm, comfortable and cheap. The construction time of buildings from scratch and before the end of the finishing work with the right organization is no more than two weeks.
Frame bath - Photo
Important moment. While creating a frame, you need to know what kind of material will be insulation. The fact is that international standards establish the width of the extruded glass gambled or polystyrene foam 60 cm, but some domestic producers for inexplicably reasons for several centimeters reduce it. This must be taken into account during the calculation of the distances between the vertical supports of the frame, otherwise insulation will be carried out with great difficulties and an essential amount of unproductive waste of expensive insulation.
We have a little dealt with the theoretical part, you can move to practical steps to insulate the frame bath.
Source conditions. Insulation material - extruded mineral wool with a thickness of 10 cm, internal sheathing - Natural lining. The outer walls are trimmed with OSP plates and are insulated with polystyrene plates. For regions with a temperate climate, the external walls can be sewed with clap, additional insulation is not required. Works start from the walls.
Step 1. Calculate the required amount of mineral wool. Make it easily - summarize the area of \u200b\u200bexternal walls and ceilings. You do not need to do a discount on the width and the number of vertical racks, due to this you will have a sufficient stock for unforeseen losses.
Very important. Warming work should be done only in dry weather. You can meet the recommendations at the beginning to cut the frame of the windproof material, and then calmly warm the building regardless of weather. Do not take into account such tips. First, windproof materials will never protect Mineral Wat from moisture penetration during rain. Secondly, the number of places with a loose fit of the insulation to the frame is significantly increased. The fact is that you have the opportunity to check the density of the fit of mats only from the inside, and the external is not available, it is closed by material.
In order to make sure that personally, try to insert one sheet of mineral wool in the frame of the frame. FROM back side The sharp corners of the wool are deformed and will not be on the laid place, the thickness of the insulation layer in these places will significantly decrease. In these places, cold street air will be penetrated, and steam is condensed. Each sheet needs to be corrected all over the perimeter, use a kitchen knife or a canvas with a metal knife. It must be achieved that the ends of the sheet of mineral wool canvas and all over the perimeter come into contact with the elements wooden carcass And among themselves.
Important. Isolation works much more efficiently if instead of one plate with a thickness of 100 mm set two to 50 mm. It will provide an opportunity to overlap the joints between the individual plates and it is better to control the density of the fit to the frame elements of their ends. According to the cost, nothing is lost, and the quality improves noticeably. In addition, condensate is necessarily formed on each cold bridge, which very negatively affects the operation time of the wooden elements. Two layers of thinner mineral plates solve this problem.
mineral wool
Step 2. Mineral wool start laying from the floor to the ceiling. Under its own weight, it is additionally compacted and reduces the number of probable slots.
Council of professionals. Cut the extruded mineral wool is much easier than an ordinary manual hacksaw. Before this, the maximum scold the grinder of the teeth and take them a little wider.
Some builders for such purposes apply a mounting knife, but we do not advise. First, his blade is very thin and thick sheets difficult to cut smoothly. The blade from the first time does not cut through the entire mineral wool, you have to spend several times in the same place. And precisely to get the second time in the made incision is almost impossible. Secondly, the blade of the knife is quickly tupping about the glass, the tip does not cut, but pulls and tear the material. Works are much more complicated, the quality deteriorates.
Install the thermal insulation throughout the perimeter of the walls of the frame bath. There are cases when after insulation, doubts arise in sufficient efficiency, and the external warming is not obtained for various reasons. Do not be discouraged, there is a very simple way out.
To vertical frame racks, it is 5 cm thick, the distance between the rails is 60 cm. We select more accurate values \u200b\u200bdepending on the linear dimensions of mineral wool mats. Between the priestly rails, you can put another layer of insulation. Do not worry, which will decrease inner dimensions Premises, these several centimeters no one will not even notice.
Step 3. Now you can proceed to the installation of ventilation and engineering networks (water supply and electricity), if you have. Before you start such work, you must have a diagram of the location of the ventilation products, gaskets electrical cables and plumbing or sewer pipe. Works should be made taking into account the requirements of PUE and construction regulatory acts.
Important. Do not lower the mineral wool right to the floor, put it on a wooden rail. Such a reception will exclude the risks of wetting the insulation, and the wet extruded wool will definitely be the cause of premature damage to the wooden structures.
Photo - laying insulation in two layers
Step 4. Install from the inside vaporizolation.
Very important moment, all work should be performed exactly according to the instructions. The fact is that even a slight increase in the relative humidity of mineral wool sharply reduces its heating saving characteristics. In addition, a long-term contact of vertical racks with a wet wool is extremely undesirable.
For vaporizolation can be used various materials: Cheap polyethylene film, rather expensive nonwoven membranes or aluminum foil.
The protective barrier is fastened by the stapler, the nesting of the material is at least 5 centimeters. It should be very careful to seal joints, use the ordinary tape or a special self-adhesive foil for this purpose. Keep in mind that any minor gaps in obligatory eventually will let yourself know. Do not hurry with work. All technological operations do the most carefully.
parosolation
Step 5. Speak racks with a thickness of about two centimeters and fix the lining to them. Check the width and length of the room, if the dimensions are normal, then you can cut the entire lining at once. If there are problems, then each board must be customized separately. Break down on the bottom up, use small carnations to 2 cm long cloves for fixing. It is possible to drive the nails in the groove or to the facial surface. The first way looks more beautiful, but harder is done. Soberly rate your abilities and with their account, select a method for fixing the trim.
On this internal work Under the insulation of the frame bath is finished, you can proceed to external.
We have already mentioned that these works should be performed only in areas with a very cold climate. Initial data. The external surfaces of the walls of the frame bath are covered with moisture-resistant plates of OSP or glued plywood. Insulation material - polystyrene foam, thickness of sheets 5 ÷ 10 cm.
Step 1. Calculate the required amount of materials and hardware. The polystyrene foam can be fixed with special dowels with increased diameters of the caps or perch on polymer glue.
One square meter of the wall area needs 6 pcs. Dowels. The amount of glue depends on how much smooth surfaces Wall and which way it will be applied: solid or only around the edges and center. To say exactly how it is better not possible, learn the instructions for the glue and use the manufacturer's recommendations. Only after the start of the work you can find out the actual amount of glue consumption taking into account all factors. For finish finish Plate surfaces you need a reinforcing mesh and finishing plaster.
Step 2. Check the condition of the surfaces and correct the problem areas if necessary. OSP plates must be completely dry. From the outside, it is not necessary to protect them from moisture, the defense will serve as a polystyrene foam, he does not miss moisture or steam.
Practical advice. Do not attempt to make the walls of the walls perfectly even, the spreading up to 0.5 cm is easily corrected during the installation of polystyrene foam plates.
Step 3. Works start with the bottom of the building, very carefully check the position of the first row. Plates of polystyrene foams better glued modern materials Possess excellent adhesion. In addition, working with glue is easier and faster, it allows you to level the surface. If the walls have quite large irregularities, then glue to the layer of increased thickness. In order to save material, you can glue only the corners and the center of the sheet.
Check the position of polystyrene foam plates with a long level rack. At the same time, you must control the position of at least two sheets of polystyrene foam.
Practical advice. If you have little experience in the production of such work, we strongly advise you to repel horizontal lines on the walls at a distance equal to the width of the sheets. Use the rope with blue, this time will take only a few hours, and the benefits will be very noticeable. The lines make it possible to constantly monitor the position of each row of insulation.
Step 4. By such an algorithm will warm all the walls of the bath. Thoroughly process the places of door and window openings.
Now you need to give time to dry the glue, depending on the specific brand it will be necessary from 24 to 48 hours. Glue drop - you can start gluing the reinforcing grid and decorative plastering.
polystyrene foam
Step 1. Carefully with the help of glue, close all the joints between the individual sheets of the insulation, fill large ledges in height.
Step 2. Prepare the solution according to the instructions, work can be performed by a large spatula or ironing. Initially, the grid is pre-fixed in several places, and then the glue is superimposed over the entire surface. Carefully watch it nowhere to save and not peeled from the surface of polystyrene foam plates.
Step 3. Shuffle the external surface of the insulation. You don't need a thick layer of solution, the main thing is to hide the reinforcing grid. The plaster must close the reinforcing grid for 1 ÷ 2 mm.
On this work on the warming of the walls of the frame bath is finished, you can start working with the ceilings.
Sheets can be put on the draft ceiling (optimal from our point of view) or fix from falling out by any metal slats, and to attach a finishing lining to navigate special rails 20 × 50 mm.
Step 1. Pribe a rough ceiling to ceiling beams. For this, you can take the unedged boards of the second-third grade with a thickness of about 20 mm. Do not forget to remove the bark. Under the crust, the pests will always appear over time, which will begin to damage not only the black ceiling boards, but also all wooden frames of the frame bath. The distance between the boards is 20 ÷ 25 cm, for fixing you can use ordinary nails or wood screws.
Step 2. Stay in the free niches of the draft ceiling of the heaters, carefully align them all over the perimeter. Initially, it is followed by the attic to put the entire insulation, then from the inside to correct their position. In the joints between the sheets, insert the knife or canvas of the hacksaw and, moving their back / rear, achieve the perfect fit of the insulation on all parties.
Step 3. Take care of vapor insulation. To do this, you can use aluminum foil, modern membrane materials or an ordinary polyethylene film. All these materials are well coped with the tasks set, although the price difference can be very significant.
Practical advice. The main attention is paid to the sealing of the joints of insulating materials. The backstage in these places at least five centimeters, joints should be sickling with a scotch or special foil.
When working with foil, be very careful - she quickly rushes. And any hole significantly reduces vapor barrier with all negative consequences. Parosolation is fixed by the stapler, do not allow large savings of the material. The distance between the finishing clamping of the ceiling and insulating material There must be at least one centimeter.
Step 4. Speak to the ceiling beams of racks with a thickness of about two centimeters, the lining will be attached to them.
Step 5. Check the position of the waterproofing and insulation, if everything is normal, then begin the finish finish of the ceiling. During the trim, additional works may occur if the chimney is released through the roof. How to finish a chimney pipe?
The work complex will depend on the material of the manufacture and type of chimney. Consider the four most common types of chimney pipe.
Metal chimney installation guide. Elements of chimney and ceiling and passing node
During the description of the operational advantages of the frame bath, there are few people mention and its shortcomings, and they have each building. One of them is relatively low carrier frame characteristics. This feature has a noticeable impact on the choice of insulation. We strongly do not advise too much to load the designs of the bath and apply materials with large specific weights during insulation.
Do not use traditional folk heaters based on straw or sawdust. During the preparation, they are stirred with clay operated in water and become very heavy. In addition, the presence of a large amount of water can cause the wetting of wooden ceiling overlap designs, and this will very negatively affect all the operational performance of the bath.
Frame walls do not make any obstacles to the penetration of rodents. And they very much like polystyrene foam, all over a year - two are capable of turning solid sheets in Dulku. Keep this in mind during the choice of material, do not use polystyrene foam for insulation of the internal niche frame.
Pay great attention to the quality of hydro and vapor barrier. Frame baths do not have unloaded vertical stubborn racks, each of them bears load and keeps other important structural or architectural elements Buildings. Violation of strength due to prolonged exposure to moisture of just one rack can cause critical disorders of the sustainability of the entire bath. Complete and expensive repairs will be required. It is much better to prevent such a situation at the stage of insulation of the premises, than then to engage in complex repair work.
Any work on the insulation of premises is to increase the comfort of the adoption of bath procedures. But you will never be able to achieve the desired result, if you are engaged only to insulate the frame bath, and the device and selection of the stove, the ventilation of the room important moments Do not pay attention.
Any frame design is needed insulation, this is especially true of builds such as the bath. The steamer in the traditional Russian style should last a long time to maintain air temperature within 60-90 ° C. To make it possible, it is necessary to produce.
The insulated frame sauna allows to significantly save on its heating. Therefore, the means spent on insulation and vapor barrier, over time pay off. The heat-insulated sauna heats up to the desired temperature and cools slower, it's better to "hold" pairs.
Sparing temperature mode Allows you to significantly increase the service life of the Kamenka furnace. Wooden designs Less degrees are subject to rotting. There is no doubt about the feasibility of insulation, it remains to choose the right to choose the material and carry out work on the relevant technology. To do this, you can hire specialists or do everything with your own hands.
From right choice The heat protection material depends the result. Modern industry suggests big choice Options for insulation for frame structures. Not fundamentally than insulating frame walls - The choice depends on the cost and availability of materials in a specific area.
The main thing is that the material is light, since the frame walls are not intended for large loads. The insulation for the bath must have not only good thermal insulation properties, but also resistant to fire, minimal toxicity.
Light frame bath can be insulated different ways. From the most available options The following methods of insulation can be distinguished:
Reed slabs - light non-combustible material with high heat insulating characteristics. Depending on the manufacturer, the thickness of the blocks from the root can reach 15 cm. Since it natural material, Before installation, it is recommended to impregnate the slabs with a solution of iron mood from insects.
A mixture of wood sawdust and gypsum in a 10: 1 ratio is the most budget option for frame baths and has excellent thermal insulation properties. Such a mixture can be prepared with the addition of cement in a similar proportion. Cement and gypsum plays the role of a binder, and thoroughly dried sawdust and air between them make up a layer with low thermal conductivity.
Plates based on polymers (polystyrene foam, foam, polyurethane foam, etc.) are characterized by simplicity of use and low cost, and therefore enjoy the greatest popularity. If there is a question, the better and easier to insulate the bath, then it is worth choosing a foam.
The steps of the floor insulation of the frame bath is incredibly important. First you need to warm the underground space - to make it easily with your own hands. It is enough to fall asleep with its clayjit or a furnace slag.
In the rooms of the baths that are not intended for washing (pre-banner, bathroom, steam room, lounge, etc.) is the easiest to arrange solid floors that are perfectly kept warm and easy to manufacture. For this purpose, lags and draft floor are stacked on the floor, the boards of which are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic.
After that, the floor lay a layer of insulation (mineral or basalt cotton wool, foam), which is delayed with a waterproofing film. A pinched board or tile is stacked as the first floor.
In the wash room, the floor device is more difficult, since it must be carefullyroidered from moisture. Therefore, on a layer of insulation, it is necessary to lay a double layer of waterproofing material. After that you need to do concrete screed With a thickness of at least 5 cm, otherwise it breaks under its own weight. For strength, the screed reinforce the grid. You can lay a tile as the finish layer.
The technology of insulation of walls in the frame bath is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to attach a doomlet from wooden or metal guides. Sheets of foam or any other insulation are inserted into the idres. The thermal insulation material is necessarily covered with a layer of waterproofing, which is then sewn with clapboard, siding or other material.
In the waterproofing layer there should be no damage or holes. The connection of the sheets is made by the venge, the joints of the joints must be flown by thin straps. If polyethylene is used as waterproofing, then it can be welded.
In the process of installation between the insulation and facing, it is necessary to provide an unintent ventilation space with a thickness of 1.5-3 cm.
At the end of the insulation of the walls begins the construction of the roof of the bath. Installation of the ceiling, its subsequent heat and vaporizolation will allow you to prevent heat loss through the roof. To do this, you need to mount four layers of roof insulation:
Since warm air is raised at the expense of convection, the thickness of the ceiling thermal insulation layer should be thicker than for walls. It must reach 10-15 cm.
The insulation of the frame bath outside allows to reduce heat loss even more. The layer of heat-insulating material on the facade of the building will protect the frame walls of the bath from atmospheric precipitation.
For simplicity of outdoor insulation, it is also possible to use foam sheets. They are just glued to the wall. As an finishing finish, you can use any facing. The main thing to choose the non-combustible type of foam.
The thermal insulation of windows and doors in the frame bath is not provided. It is enough that the window and door frames will be well driven to curls, slots and joints, especially around the perimeter chimney, It is necessary to carefully sealed. For windows, it is better to use double or triple double glazing with energy-saving glass.
You can additionally insulate the doors and windows, but also as described above, the insulation layout skeleton sauna in its operational properties Do not give way to a log cabin. The frame structure with competently made heat and vaporizolation will be perfectly saved heat.
Re-reading the mass of the information and consulted with familiar builders, I decided to stay in the following version of the insulation "Cake":
As a warming material, I immediately shallow foam and glass gambled, because I am not fully confident in their safety. When heated, they highlight volatiles And to turn your own bath in an analogue of the gas chamber is unlikely to want anyone. I looked at several other options and stopped on a stone cotton (basalt car) 60 mm thick. It is recommended to use for pairs, in addition she is not a fuel, so that the most thing!
To secure the insulation, I used wooden bars of 80x80 mm, which screwed up to the walls vertically with a step of 60 cm. Stone wool plates easily fit between them. They do not fall out of the crate, as the distance between the bars is slightly smaller than the standard width of the insulation.
The role of the vapor insulation layer in the insulation of the foil plays a foil (ordinary aluminum or on kraft paper). It is necessary to protect the insulation and the inner surface of the wall of the bath from moisture. The buyers know perfectly well that when the cold bath is intimidated on the walls, condensate is always formed. If he falls on the insulation, then fungus, nasty smell And other "charms" of raw room are provided with you.
Naturally, the insulation, with this situation, will live for long and eventually rotates. And along with him, the walls of the frame will be spoiled, which is absolutely not enough. If you put a foil as a vapor insulating layer, then the formed condensate will flush down it, and the insulation will not fall on the insulation.
The thicker it will be a foil, the better it will cope with their functions, so I advise you to use a thickness of 80-100 μm thick. Foil is attached to the staples brushes. For additional fixation of the foil, I also used thin wooden slats that fastened on the sides of the bars.
The greatest complexity in the styling of the foil is to create a solid vaporiasis layer without open joints. Therefore, all the joints are carefully sampled by a special tape for foil, the usual tape is not suitable for this.
It is important to note that the ventilation gap of 1-2 cm should be left between the foil and the lining. Why? Everything is very simple: it will allow condensate that accumulated on the foil, knead, and not soak into the lining. This ventilation is ensured by the width of the bars, between which the insulation was laid and which will continue to serve for fixing the lining.
In steam lining, I fixed horizontally, as this position allows water falling onto the walls, flush down, without getting into the joints. There is one more advantage of horizontal stacking: if over time the bottom boards will rotate (rotting always begins to bottom, as there is a higher humidity and below the temperature), then they can be easily replaced. With a vertical location of the lining, this number will not pass and replacing all the trim.
The lining is attached to vertical bars using self-tapping screws. There should be no modern impregnation and coatings with lining, otherwise you will have to breathe chemical evaporation. I heard that it was not bad to cry with a hot-natural olifa lining, allegedly creates a water-repellent film inside a tree, but the pores themselves do not seal. However, in any case, my personally, my opinion remains such that it is not necessary to cover the walls of the steam room - the tree in the bath should be worst, and then sink well and then no rotting is scary.
Insulation is performed precisely by the same principle as the insulation of the walls. The only difference is that the insulation layer for the ceiling must be 2 times thicker. This is due to the fact that the main part of the heat during the damning of the bath always rises up and goes through the ceiling. If you pay special attention to the insulation of the ceiling, then this heat is not going anywhere, respectively, the bath is heated stronger in a shorter period of time.
After the foil layer, the ceiling is trimmed with wooden clapboard
That's all the wisdom of insulation baths. Of course, I do not think that this option is the truth in the last instance, you may come up with a more advanced warming design of the walls and the ceiling of the bath. However, the fact that I suggest well works on my site for more than a year!
