Recently, natural materials and buildings from them are in great demand. This is not surprising, because they have many advantages and are also environmentally friendly. In such buildings, you can not worry about the health of your family and friends.
In this article, we would like to talk about how to cut down a bathhouse with our own hands. And also give you the most important tips and recommendations.
Important. The quality of the bath you made will depend directly on the wood.
Therefore, you need to buy materials only prepared in accordance with existing rules and standards.
Important. Do-it-yourself assembly of a bathhouse can be performed immediately on the foundation, because, unlike a log cabin, there is no need to stack the logs on the ground.
Many novice masters are interested in the question: "how to build a bathhouse for many years?" This question is relevant and in order to translate it into reality, a detailed inspection and rejection of wood will be required..
We present to your attention the points to which you should pay your attention:
In this article, we will describe the option of connecting the bars in a paw, since it is the simplest, and the do-it-yourself bath houses made in this way are strong and reliable:
Important. In order for the timber not to come into contact with the foundation, a layer of slats is made.
Such a structure additionally protects it from decay processes and prolongs its service life.
Important. The first crown is a mortgage; it does not need to be fixed.
After creating a log house, it will guarantee the stability of the foundation.
In addition, if it is necessary to replace the lower crown, it will be easier to do this than if it was fixed.
In this case, there are two options for working:
The advantages of the first option:
A do-it-yourself bathhouse from a log house is ready for use when its walls are completely caulked. To do this, you need to wait six months for the structure to shrink, and have a special caulk and a hammer.
Tips and Notes:
In this article, we discussed how to build a bathhouse from a log house with our own hands. If you follow the recommendations and tips presented, then you will definitely succeed. In the video presented in this article, you will find Additional information on this topic.
The traditional Russian bathhouse is built of wood. This material perfectly retains heat and, when heated, releases healing substances into the air of the room. Correctly processed and installed log cabins serve for several generations. The ecological purity of wood, its lively energy and natural structure make the material popular, despite its high cost. This is a classic proven over the centuries, which is not inferior to the position of bricks, cinder blocks and other inexpensive building materials.
A log bath can be built by a DIYer skilled in the use of an ax, drill and saw. This process is not very complicated and is quite feasible on our own, but it is better to invite assistants to assemble a log house.
Vendors offer two types of wood:
Undried material is cheaper, but after erection, the frame will shrink significantly.
To build a reliable bathhouse that will last for many years, you need wood harvested in the winter, cleaned of bark and sufficiently dried. A blockhouse made of such logs can be operated for 50 years.
Indoors, it is necessary to install a rough floor l with insulation. The walls of the steam room are sheathed with clapboard, under which foil insulation is laid. This is necessary so that when heated, the resin from the logs does not get onto people. Finishing is done with a board made of deciduous trees... The outer part of the bath is good in its natural form and does not require additional finishing. It is better to install windows and doors after the final shrinkage of the frame.
It is always warmer and more pleasant in a Russian sauna made of logs, folded independently.
This video tells about the project of a 3x3 log bath with a 2-meter dressing room:
Ecology of consumption. Manor: The use of chopped logs in the process of building a bath is fully justified by the high costs. Since the quality of such a structure is much higher than the use of rounded materials. We will consider further how to build a bathhouse from a log.
The use of chopped logs in the process of building a bath is fully justified by the high costs. Since the quality of such a structure is much higher than the use of rounded materials. We will consider further how to build a bathhouse from a log.
The most popular material used in the construction of a bath is wood. It is the wooden buildings that are distinguished by their quality, durability, and spending time in such a bath becomes beneficial to health.
The use of wood allows you to maintain the necessary microclimate of the room, the walls in such a bath are capable of certain conditions absorb moisture and release it at the right time.
The duration of use and the quality of the built bath directly depend on the type of materials used in the process of its construction and on their quality. When harvesting wood, you should adhere to certain rules, which we will consider further:
1. It is better to harvest the tree during the period from December to March.
2. After the tree has been felled, you should wait at least a month before further processing.
3. Before storing the forest, all logs are cleaned from bark, only on the end sections there are small places, 15-20 cm, with bark, preventing their cracking.
4. Logs are stored in stacks. It is important to maintain a 50 mm ventilation gap between them.
5. All stacks are covered with slate, which will protect them from moisture.
If you adhere to all the conditions for harvesting wood, then such a bath will serve its owners for at least 50 years.
Logs are round materials that are formed after cutting down trees, which are cleared of branches and trunks.
Among the advantages of chopped logs are:
Among the disadvantages of chopped logs are:
Chopped log baths - characteristics
Chopped log baths have remained popular for dozens and even hundreds of years. This is due to the availability of materials used in the process of their construction and the ease of processing.
The use of wood in construction has the following advantages:
The standard appearance of a bathhouse built of chopped logs has one floor. Although the option of building a two-story or attic bath is possible. The minimum number of rooms in the bath is three: a washing room, a steam room and a relaxation room.
In the construction of baths, different types of trees are used, but the lower part of the bath, which is in contact with the foundation, is traditionally made of larch, since this material has the highest quality characteristics... Also, it is common to use conifers, pine trees, which fill the room with a special aroma that cleanses and heals the human body.
For the firebox, it is better to give preference to birch. When building a bath, the main thing is to choose the right type of wood. Since the final result of the work depends on the quality of the material.
An important point is the construction load-bearing structures building. They appear as one wooden wall, which is based on longitudinally laid logs or crowns.
Chopped log baths photo:
The crown is a rectangular structure, which consists of beams laid in a perpendicular direction.
The final stage of work is the felling of a bathhouse; first, work is carried out to cut a tree in the forest or in the field. Then the log house is transported to the construction site and caulked. After a year has passed after installation and complete drying, an internal and exterior decoration log house.
Construction of baths from logs: step by step instructions
The procedure for building a bath using chopped logs consists of several stages, namely:
1. Drawing up projects of baths from chopped logs.
2. Assembly and felling of materials used in the construction process.
3. Preparation and construction of the foundation.
4. Construction of walls in the bath.
5. Equipment for the roof of the building.
6. Installation of the stove.
7. Carrying out interior finishing works.
8. Installation of the chimney.
9. Works on floor and ceiling insulation.
10. Installation of shelves in the room.
The first stage involves the design of the bath. The development of projects is carried out in accordance with all the requirements of the owners. The option of self-development of the project is possible, finished purchase project or individual development the project by specialists who will take into account all the individual climatic and geological features of the area and make the best option bath project.
They begin to build a bath by determining its dimensions, if we consider standard sizes log house, which consists of three rooms, then its area will be about 60 square meters.
An important factor is the height of the room in which the shelves will be located, and which should be comfortable for location. a certain amount people.
Please note that too large a bath will improve heat loss and it will take a lot of fuel to heat the bath. Therefore, you should choose the minimum dimensions of the room, which should be convenient for the location of people in the bath.
A standard bath consists of a dressing room, in which they change clothes, and a steam room, in which they wash and steam. The option of equipping the rest room is possible.
For more rational use space, the door from the steam room should go into the vestibule.
To improve the strength of the structure, you should choose and equip the foundation correctly. The depth of its laying is determined by the depth of freezing of the soil, to which a minimum of 100 mm is added.
It is important to take into account the correct temperature distribution in the bath. The air temperature in the steam room is from 51 to 57 degrees, in the washing room - 35-40 degrees, and in the changing room, at least 22 degrees.
An important factor is correct location and installation of shelves. They should not be near the stove, as there is a risk of scalding from too hot steam.
Therefore, it is preferable to place shelves near blank walls. The shelves should be arranged in two or three tiers, depending on the height of the ceiling.
Most often, sauna stoves are used in the sauna, which are located in the corner section of the room. This arrangement allows for optimal heating of all rooms at once. A reservoir is installed in the inner part of the furnace, in which water is heated. The principle of operation of such a furnace consists in the use of a special kind of stones, which, when heated, heat up and emit steam in contact with water. The stove uses firewood as fuel, which is used to heat it for a long time.
Arrangement of the roof is another important issue, since the roof must have a minimum thermal conductivity. If the bath - separately standing building, then the most popular roof construction option is gable roof... When arranging baths in the form of an extension, it is rational to use single-pitched types of roofs.
Tilt angle gable roof ranges from 18 to 44 degrees, and a slope - from twenty to thirty degrees. Wooden bath requires a heavy roof, as it must be very warm to prevent heat loss. Quite popular are the Norwegian earthen roofs, on the surface of which there is soil and plants in the form of a lawn.
It will take at least two months to build a bath. But, keep in mind that in order for the bath to serve efficiently, its operation should be started no earlier than a year after its construction. Since it is after this period of time that the first stage of bath shrinkage occurs. Final shrinkage will take place after four to five years, depending on the type of wood.
The main stage in the construction of the bath is the insulation of the floor and ceiling. To insulate the ceiling in the bath, from chopped logs, you will need to nail slings along the entire ceiling, then a wooden ceiling is installed, then caulking is installed to prevent heat loss.
In addition, you should take care of the correct arrangement of floors and weirs. When building a floor in a washing room and a steam room, care should be taken to ensure a normal flow and to drain water into the sewer system. Therefore, the floor must have an inclined surface, for its manufacture only moisture-repellent materials are used, in the form of concrete, clay.
The slope should be directed towards a pit, which is equipped with a water seal connecting the spillway and the sewer pit.
Next, the floor is covered wood materials... To perform this process, the installation of lags is required, which are mounted on a previously waterproofed surface with support pillars. Between the boards, a gap of at least 0.5 cm is imperatively left, since the tree swells when wet, and when it dries, it decreases in volume. In addition, you should worry about removing the longitudinal chamfer from the boards, so their upper part becomes slightly larger, lower.
If a continuous floor is being constructed, then for its arrangement, a pit is required directly in the room. A special grid is installed to cover it. The ventilation riser is used for sewerage equipment. For its arrangement, it is required to install an asbestos-cement or metal pipe, the minimum diameter of which is 10 cm. A cap or deflector is installed on its upper section.
After the construction of the bath, it is required to lay the inter-row seal between the logs. Thus, the appearance of gaps through which heat loss occurs is excluded.
Moss or tow is used as a sealant, but this method is less popular due to the complexity of the work and the high cost of the material. Modern housing construction involves the use of flax, which is easy to install, since it is produced in the form of a roll.
The procedure for sealing the seams is called caulking; it requires the same inter-crown sealant or linen rope to improve the appearance of the building.
With the help of caulking, the thermal insulation of the entire building is significantly improved. But, carrying out this process should be repeated after the shrinkage of the building has expired, that is, after five years of its operation.
An important issue is the problem of joining logs, since chopped materials have different diameters and for joining, special skills are required.
The standard size of a log is 600 cm. If the wall of the building is longer, then they are joined together at the cut. Thus, the joint areas become invisible. In the absence of a perpendicular wall, an overcut is equipped at the butt section, hiding the joints.
If there is no possibility in the construction of a cut, the joints are formed in a checkerboard pattern, for a more reliable fixation of the logs.
Making a bath from wood has another unpleasant consequence, such as cracking the log. Since wood is a living organism with moisture inside, after a certain treatment it dries up and loses its strength. Since moisture begins to evaporate from the central part of the logs, it is on them that the greatest load is imposed, leading to cracking. In order to avoid the appearance of this process, it is required to make a deformation saw, which will help remove moisture without consequences for the log.
In addition, there is a danger of blue or darkening of the wood. This procedure occurs due to a decrease in the quality of wood under the influence of moisture, sun, temperature changes and other factors. Logs are especially sensitive to fungi or mold, which are in the air and through it get to the surface. The most optimal conditions for the reproduction of the fungus are the air temperature +22 and the humidity over 90%, therefore it is recommended to equip the bath with good ventilation, which will prevent this process.
In addition, it is required to carry out periodic processing of the tree with the help of antiseptic preparations and impregnations. If the blue has already appeared on the surface, then it should be well sanded and a bleaching agent should be applied.
Before installing the beams, you should worry about processing them with drugs that will protect the tree from the sun, moisture and other external influences. You should not save on the purchase of these materials, as they can extend the life of a wooden bath several times. published by
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Building a bathhouse from a log house is not an easy task, however, the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen.
This material explains all the key points that will help in the construction of a log bath: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.The steam bath has been known since the times of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp stoves. And in the 21st century, the Russian bath did not become a kind of archaism, having successfully withstood the age-old competition with bathrooms and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in urban everyday life, to give the body a full rest - all this is achieved when visiting the bathhouse for more than one and a half thousand years.
Which construction is preferable, how to choose a place for its placement, how it generally works - you will find answers to many "bath" questions in this article.
One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was a reservoir with fresh water located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which occurred quite often due to violations during the construction of the stove.
Today, there is no special need to link a summer cottage bath to a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the summer cottage.
The main criteria for choosing a place for a bath: distance from the road, the presence of natural or artificial fencing from outside spectators (dense bushes, tree crowns, a fence, outbuildings), a fire distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.
The main premises of the bath are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 for each bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have a place for furniture (locker for clothes, bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (box for coal or firewood). In the washroom, you will need a place for containers with hot and cold water, stoves and a place for sun loungers.
For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people), a bath of the following sizes is suitable: external dimension- 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; Steam room - 2x1.5 m
In general, the size of the bath is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the site is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, recreation rooms, etc.
In temperate and cold climatic zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bath is located in the south, and window openings- on its western (south-western) side. This location of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow illuminating its premises with sunlight for a longer time.
There are several of them:
The classic and the most successful construction material for the Russian bath there was and will be a tree - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, taking excess moisture outside.
What kind of wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, saunas are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable inner atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, the bottom rims and logs for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - the oak must be cut down "in the juice itself" (that is, not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.
When do you need to store wood for the construction of a bath? Round timber, wood for interior decoration must be cut down in winter, when the tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture, it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk will do, that is, the top and butt are not suitable.
An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the round timber of conifers, dryness, sanded surface, the absence of decayed areas and places of damage by the woodworm beetle.
The main types of foundations for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on the local soil. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with maximum accuracy - it is better if to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying any type of foundation: cleaning the site from debris, completely removing the topsoil to a depth of 200 mm (removing the fertile layer).
To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:
Arranged on slightly weeping soils: consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bath, as well as at the junction of internal and outer walls... If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of the pillar foundation is at least 1.5 m.
Pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the construction site of the bath, the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, connected with concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square, with a side of 380 mm, the auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made in two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth, coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer - 100–150 mm), filled with water and rammed.
The foundation pillars when building a bath with your own hands can also be made independently. This will require a demountable formwork made of boards, coated from the inside with non-hardening grease such as "Emulsol". Inside the assembled formwork, you need to place iron reinforcement, then pour the concrete mixture.
For the casting of foundation pillars inside the pits opened for them, a sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, tar paper or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm or more is created, which is placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is covered with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent lifting concrete pillar when heaving the soil. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully compacted. For the wire handles, previously fixed on the sliding formwork, it is raised by swinging it by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new batch of concrete is poured.
As a columnar foundation, asbestos-cement pipes can be used, they are durable, not subject to decay, and their outer surface is sufficiently smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be coated with mineral-based construction grease to reduce the threat of freezing to the ground.
In the intervals between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bath and interior walls the rooms of the steam room are laid out with brick walls, their sufficient thickness is brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.
Foundation pillars and brick walls between them are brought out to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level, they must be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing material for waterproofing. During casting, the pillars of the required shape are made of metal into the ends of the pillars - they are intended for fastening the frame of the bath to the foundation.
When building a bath on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.
Sequence of work:
The reinforcement, laid on the bottom of the foundation trenches, must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifting it to its middle with the help of brick fragments.
The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in a ratio of 5: 3: 1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculate the volume of concrete required for pouring strip foundation, quite simply, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:
One of the difficulties in preparing a dry mix of concrete is the lack of weights on construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will come in handy: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.
The formwork is placed in such a way that the cast into it concrete foundation protruded above the ground level by 100 mm. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or a wire probe, hit with a hammer on the outer side of the formwork (we eliminate the air pockets). Then you need to wait for the foundation to completely harden, about 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.
After the expiration of the time allotted for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if lifting the bath is not required, then, after waterproofing, we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:
Roofing material (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation on bituminous mastic(for roofing - tar mastic). The brick is laid in a single-row method of dressing: a masonry mortar is laid out on a layer of roofing material, on it - the first brick row "in a poke" (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar and the next brick row are placed, but already "in a spoon" (along the axis foundation). Each new row brickwork accompanied by a laying of a masonry mesh, laying "in a spoon" and "in a poke" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th stitch rows of masonry, it is necessary to install ventilation ducts from pipe scraps - 5-7 ducts are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.
The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the mortar is sand: cement as 1: 2 or 1: 3), with a 20 mm layer.
We create the foundation for the stove-heater and assemble the sauna blockhouse. If the main masonry of the heater is supposed, it needs an independent foundation, that is, not connected with the main foundation.
The floor in the bath can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically not higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the sauna floor - their task is to relieve the visitors of the bath from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.
The main disadvantage of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Wood covering the floor wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance; after 6–8 years, it may require replacement. More practical for a bath flooring would be tile- it is easier to care for it, it is not susceptible to the effects of moisture that easily flows down its surface.
The floors in the bath rooms must be placed at different levels: the floor of the steam room is 150 mm higher than the floor of the washing room (we keep the heat), the floor of the washing room is 30 mm below the floor in the dressing room (we protect against water ingress).
Since the installation of a concrete floor with ceramic tiles in a washing and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.
There are several ways to arrange a concrete floor in a bath. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and 100 mm of a layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well tamped and leveled. Then lay roofing material on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.
Next steps:
With a significant rise in the base of the bath above the ground level (from 300 mm), flooring will require wooden logs square(side 150 mm). If the dimensions of the premises of the bath do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the logs of the frame will be the supports for the logs. For large sizes, additional supports for floor logs will be required, they are pillars of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700-800 mm. The support posts for the lags must be placed on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm.
Important! Before forming the base for the support of the lag, it is necessary to make the foundation for the stove-heater and build a sewage system.
The wood for the lag can be oak, larch or conifers, logs should be treated with tar or antiseptic prior to installation.
Solution flooring in this case, it is as follows: the concreted space between the foundation is covered with roofing material with an overlap of walls to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (between the layer of roofing material and bulk insulation, a layer of 200 mm of foam can be laid), a rough floor of 29 mm edged board can be attached to the underside of the logs. Then a PVC film is laid, foil-clad mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. On top, pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with a fine fraction filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.
Do not forget to bring the stove foundation to floor level.
The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm softwood grooved planks.
An important point: when finishing the clean floor, and the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic Construction Materials- the condition is especially important for a steam room!
To drain waste water from the bath, you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for Wastewater and pipes that drain dirty water into a pit and then into a sewer.
The pit comes off outside the basement of the bath, from the premises of the steam room and the washing room, gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are brought into it ( metal pipes quickly rust).
The pit must be 500 mm apart from the foundation, its depth is 700 mm, and the section is 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe (s) from the bath is inserted into it under the foundation. The main drainage well, containing at least 2 m 3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is brought to it from the pit, laid down a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering the drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, and soil is poured over it - with a layer of at least 500 mm. Tamp each layer thoroughly when laying.
Before the outlet of the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bath. Its edges and top side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its bottom edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the weir opening.
To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be closed with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), between them to lay felt, and the top cover must be covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust on top.
It is better to make a log house for a bath to order from professional performers, its manufacture is rather difficult. The disassembled finished log house must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm spike staples with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.
The roof structure of the bath includes rafters, the crate is attached to them, then roofing material... The choice of the final roof structure depends on roofing with which it will overlap. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the log house (preferably to the penultimate one) using spike staples. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of a single or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10 ° to 60 °) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in a given area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.
Single-pitched rafters, located at an angle, are attached with two external or internal and external supports. If the length of the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are propped up with additional struts. The rafters of the gable roof rest on the lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.
The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing material, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.
Attic space must be made ventilated, i.e. equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.
We carry out a blind area along the perimeter of the foundation: we completely remove the top layer of soil, go deep 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the bath base, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) with its subsequent leveling. We lay expansion joints (19 mm board, covered with resin or bitumen, with a step of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill in with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - covered with dry cement with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the basement of the bath must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.
It is carried out to insulate a log house - to seal the gaps between its logs, linen tow, red moss, hemp hemp, woolen felt are traditionally used for caulking. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced by factory made from jute and flax fibers: linen and felt - jute and flax. The advantage of factory-made materials for caulking over natural ones is resistance to damage by moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made materials, since it is produced in the form of a continuous tape of a given thickness and width.
The caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is performed - from the outside and inside of the log house, a year later - repeated caulking (the log house is upset - the logs dry).
The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a beater, you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these tools are made from wood (ash, oak or beech). The caulking blade looks like a wedge with a 200 mm long handle and a 100 mm pointed blade, 30 mm thick handle, 65 mm blade width at the base, 30 mm at the end. The wooden mallet has a rounded shape: the handle diameter is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the diameter of the striking part is 70 mm, and the length is 100 mm.
Caulking is done in two ways - "in a set" or "in a stretch". In the second way, we caulk as follows: we collect caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the buried groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap the roller with them and drive it into the groove using a spatula and a roller - with force, until we are fully confident that the groove (gap) is filled.
The first method of caulking log cabins is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking in 2 mm strands, from which we form several loops and drive them into the slot. The loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.
Caulking rules:
Do not under any circumstances caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to be skewed, you will have to disassemble / assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is carried out in the "bottom-up" direction along the perimeter of the log house.
There are many design options for stoves for baths, they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and be heated from electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick ovens in baths they are made with a wall thickness of "half a brick" or "a whole brick", the masonry seams must be tied up especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness to achieve the highest furnace efficiency. Only red bricks are used for laying the stoves. The furnace firebox is taken out into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are in the washing (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing room should be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.
For a cast iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.
The heaters, installed for lovers of steam, are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). For filling the stove chamber, rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable. The design of these stoves is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, stoves differ from them with a larger pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.
To get the most high temperature in the steam room, cast iron ingots should be added to the stones at a percentage of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of the steam room, at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron ingots will be required.
If a distance of 40–50 mm is observed in the furnace between its walls and the water-heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the fastest heating of water is achieved.
For better traction, you need to withdraw chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When passing the chimney through the attic room, be sure to fluff up the chimney 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not run closer than 150 mm near the roof sheathing and rafters (fire regulations).
To wash one user of the bath, at least 8 liters are required hot water... This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container with water on the stove, use gas water heater, install an electric heater - boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bath is led from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained in the winter, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.
Water can be taken from a well or well by setting submersible pump for its injection and providing such a water supply system with cleaning filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bath, or the supply pipes must be insulated.
You need to extend an independent line to the bathhouse to supply electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For air, you need a special cable - we sweep away the "bare" aluminum immediately, stopping at two options: self-supporting insulated wire (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (over 30 years), it is strong and does not need to be supported on a supporting cable. But it is extremely difficult to spend with him assembly work, because it is too thick (minimum section - 16 mm 2). The aluminum self-supporting insulated wire cannot be pulled through the attic of the bathhouse according to fire safety standards, it is required to fasten it to special anchor clamps - in terms of the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.
A simpler solution is an air duct with a VVGng copper cable fixed to a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from a cable on an insulated plastic wire, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core cable VVGng (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched through the air to the bath, the optimal section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the cottage will want to supply from it to the future.
All tuso-junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel should be outdoor installation only. According to the rules against fire safety it is forbidden to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the dressing room. Don't mess with the possibility of a short circuit in wooden structure- all internal wiring of the bath should be made only in a non-combustible corrugated hose, fixed on special clips, cable passage through partitions - only through steel pipe.
Try to arrange the cables in a junction box, socket or lamp so that they go there from the bottom or from the side, but not from the top - a drop of condensation, sliding along the braid, can cause a short circuit.
All electrical appliances must have a moisture resistance class of at least IP44 (better than the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps- metal body, only glass cover. All connections of the internal cable routing - only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.
For work in the electrical panel and installation of the RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician, if you are not one yourself!
Internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be brick, or brick inserts are made in it by laying in one brick - on the sides in contact with the stove body.
Interior decoration is usually performed in cases where the bath itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal finishing, you will have to rebuild ventilation system baths, because the logs will be covered with sheathing and will not be able to carry out full ventilation.
The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing / steam room, a heater and a vapor barrier film are attached to the rough ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a fine finish - linden, pine grooved board (from 20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).
In the bath, you need to arrange windows of a small size (on average 500x700 mm) and cut them in low - enough so that through them you can look out to the person sitting on the bench. The windows in the bathhouse are always made with double glazing, depending on the size - with a vent or fully hinged - for quick ventilation.
Doors in the premises of the bath must be installed so that they open outward - for reasons of fire safety. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter, the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the flaps must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than is necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when the humidity rises, the flap will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. The optimal size of the door in washing department saunas - 600x1600 mm, in a steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor level (it is inconvenient to walk, but it will keep warm). Hinges for hanging door leaves - brass, going into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). The door handles are wooden (especially in the steam room).
The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, the width is 500–800 mm. The distance between the "floors" of two-row shelves must be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling covering is 1100 mm.
The surface for lying is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm and a thickness of 40 mm; a gap of 15 mm in width is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Shelving boards for shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails, the heads of which are sunk into the wood; from below - with screws. For fastening, nails and screws from stainless steel or copper are chosen.
All corners in the structure of the shelves are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero emery paper.
For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.
When choosing a material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas are more dense and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to pick up boards and beams without knotty areas at all or with a minimum number of them.
Protect the bathhouse from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace firebox, make sure that the oven doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing equipment nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can freely open the steam room and washroom doors when firing up the sauna. Do not obstruct passages, spaces in front of doors and windows.
What could be more pleasant than recuperating by steaming in! It can be built on your site with my own hands by choosing, for example, a project from a bar or logs. How to build a log house in stages is shown in detail in the photo and themed video.
Having decided to build a real Russian bath from wood soaked in aromatic resins, decide what exactly you will take for the construction of a log house: timber or logs. The first option is more common for a number of reasons:
Buildings made of logs are considered more complex; it is very difficult to do without the help of a master. If you harvest raw material from scratch, you need to properly cut and dry it. Then you should carefully select one log to another, number them, etc. It is quite time consuming, but there are more easy way: build a log house from rounded logs. They are processed on a machine, giving each the correct shape.
Regardless of what you prefer, there are several rules for harvesting (buying) wood:
Advice. The farther north the forest is, the denser the wood structure. One of the best is the material that comes from the Pskov region.
The bath project can be chosen ready-made, or it can be drawn up according to an individual sketch. To do this, you need to decide what exactly should be in your building:
The base for the bath is selected taking into account several factors:
A strip base is considered optimal for a bath from a bar. If you use logs in construction, it is better to make a more powerful foundation, for example, a columnar one. It can withstand heavier structures, including log cabins.
To erect a strip foundation you need:
Advice. 3-4 hours after the end of the pouring, you need to cover the foundation with shavings or sawdust and water it for 2-3 days at intervals of 4-5 hours. In order for the moisture to evaporate more slowly, you need to use a polyethylene shelter. After a week, the formwork can be removed, and in a month the foundation itself will be ready.
Waterproofing is a mandatory step in the construction of a bath. Molten bitumen must be applied to the surface of the foundation. A strip of roofing material is placed on top. After solidification, everything is repeated in the same sequence.
The construction of walls consists of the following stages:
At the ends, the bars are connected by grooves, which are made on one, two or four sides. The logs are fastened in a slightly different way. The easiest way involves cutting in the upper part of a semicircular recess into which a transverse log is inserted, which also has a similar cut.
Advice. Bars or logs for the first crown must be treated with an antiseptic or machine oil, and insulation should be laid between all rows: moss, tow or jute.
Blanks for windows and doors are easiest to make in the process of erecting walls. To do this, you need to leave a small gap in the rows where the openings are planned. After the construction of the log house, you need to cut the holes with a chainsaw. After natural shrinkage has passed (this takes about six months), you can make a roof. Most often, a flat single-slope option is chosen.
Attention! While shrinkage is in progress, you need to cover the log house with boards and roofing material or slate to protect the wood from precipitation.
