House, design, repair, decor. Yard and garden. Do it yourself

House, design, repair, decor. Yard and garden. Do it yourself

» Warming up the wooden house from the inside: types of materials, features of the heat insulation process. Warming up the wooden house from the inside eco-water, basalt cotton wool, glass gamble, polystyrene foam as you can insulate walls in a wooden house

Warming up the wooden house from the inside: types of materials, features of the heat insulation process. Warming up the wooden house from the inside eco-water, basalt cotton wool, glass gamble, polystyrene foam as you can insulate walls in a wooden house

In order to keep warm and comfort in the house, you must add the heat-insulating layer to the outer walls. Special attention is paid to buildings that have long been exploited and survived many negative influences. Because the word insulation is old wooden house Interested in many owners.

The house from the tree has the ability to skip the couple out, thanks to which it is always comfortable in the premises. If you choose the wrong insulation material, you can completely close the waste of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation within the walls of the structure. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire design.

Mineral wool

Experts argue that best insulation For an old wooden house, not to find. And indeed it is. Possesses the following properties:

  1. Great keeps warm.
  2. Isolates interior places from outsided sounds from the environment.
  3. A small weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
  4. The structure of the material allows you to hide all irregularities.
  5. Fire and environmental safety.
  6. Rodents are not used to create nests.

But there are a number of negative points:

  • it is necessary to protect against moisture, because mineral wool is riveted with vapor insulating membrane, on the one hand, and windproof film, on the other;
  • requires mechanical fixation.

But with such disadvantages it is easy to cope, because it is this option for an old house and or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from class available. Therefore, in demand among all construction companies and private developers. In addition to this positive moment, there are a number of others:

  1. Good thermal insulation properties.
  2. Has sound insulation.
  3. Does not absorb moisture.
  4. Withstand small mechanical loads.

But a small set of minuses makes foam flags unsuitable for the warming of a village house from a log cab:

  • lack of parpropuscular abilities;
  • rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet;
  • rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
  • polyfoam is easily flammable, and then smolders with the release of caustic substances.

The tree is without that well, and if the finish will be such that being in such a house will be dangerous for life.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is close of foam plastic. But manufacturers have slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost has increased. What characteristics are polyplex?

  1. Improved thermal insulation properties. If a foam of 10 cm thick is needed for insulation of the house, then it is possible to replace 5 cm by penplex.
  2. Withstand large mechanical exposures.
  3. Moisture does not absorb at all.
  4. There are also soundproof properties.
  5. Penoplex is made with the addition of flames, substances that do not allow the material to ignite under the influence of fire. Therefore, compared to foam, the Penoplex is safer.

Sometimes it is used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for basement or foundation. This is due to the lack of parpropusks. As a result, condensate will be formed on the walls, and therefore contributes to the development of mold and fungus.

What is better to heat up?

The house with a long service life requires not only the insulation of the facade, but also of all elements of the design as a whole. Such actions will help more effectively save heat inside the house. Therefore, consider all the items separately:

Wall insulation

Isolate walls better outside. It shifts the point of formation of dews towards the environment, which makes it much faster to remove it from the ground. If you insulate the walls from the inside, then you can call a completely opposite result. In this case, the walls will still be wrapped.

For the insulation of the walls, we choose the rigid mats of mineral wool. If there are material capabilities, you can take a foil option. The foil layer will beat heat from the walls. Before mounting the insulation, you must close all the slots.

In this case, we use harness, dry moss or pass. This material is densely constant with interventional space or cracks that can be formed on logs.

Ceiling

Heat the ceiling in two ways:

  • from the room;
  • by the attic room.

Both first, and the second way effective. The ceiling laid more rigid materials. If there is a attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then the design of the beams, between which the leaf insulation is placed. Do not forget about vapor insulation membranes.

When the attic is under the roof, it is possible to use the minvata, and even the foam. On top of the insulation, be sure to lay more hard material. It can be a chipboard, which will protect the insulation from the journaling.

There is a variant when bulk insulation is used, such as sawdust, gravel. But such materials need a lot to do even more expensive than using modern insulation.

Floor

The choice of technology of insulation of the dietary house depends on basement or not. If there is a basement, you first insulate it. Perhaps, after that, additionally, the floor does not have to be insulated.

But if such a need is already defined, the following options are chosen:

  1. Laying of a warm floor (electrical heating). For old wooden structures, it is not always suitable because it requires reliable electrical wiring.
  2. The use of heat-insulating materials. Only hard options are chosen, but necessarily make a board-made floor or cover chipboard or OSB plates, and then decorated with the selected floor material.

It is in the old wooden house that the larger heat losses occur due to the cause of dilapidated floors. Therefore, you should not neglect the possibility of insulating floors. More precisely, start to warm the house from the floors.

How to insulate the old wooden house with their own hands?

The tree must be specifically processed before proceeding to perform any external work. Especially if the design is closed from the eye of the owner. Therefore, carefully and carefully follow the technology of insulation, if you do everything yourself.

And if you trusted to masters, do not forget to control the brigade. It often happens that employees want to perform work earlier and a little chellurite. This can lead to premature destruction of the design.

Surface preparation

First prepare the foundation:

  1. Clear all pollution and stains, insect traces or fungus.
  2. Remove old decorative coating.
  3. Remove hinged structures that will interfere with all work.
  4. Close all slots.
  5. Cove the wooden design with protective compositions. These are antiseptic impregnation or mastic and moisture-repellent compositions. What will significantly extend the service life.

If it says on the package, it is advisable to make several layers, it is better to do as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, then you can regret.

Laying a vapor insulating layer

After the impregnation is completely dry, proceed to laying membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and will allow pairs to be easily passing through the insulation and go out.

  • start laying from the bottom of the wall with vertical stripes;
  • each subsequent band finds, on the previous one, by 10-15 cm;
  • joints are fixed by scotch;
  • the membrane itself is fixed using a construction stiplator.

Installation of crates

For frames use wooden bars or metal profiles. If selected wooden frameThe details also require special processing to listen as long as the decorative layer. In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the irregularities of the walls, which means they will have to put pegs or put in some places.

With the metal everything is much easier - we take and install. Special retractable brackets can easily hide all shortcomings. But such a design will cost a little more than a wooden.

The method of installation of the frame depends on whether the insulation will be used or not, and because of which decorative material it is decided to install on the facade.

The approximate plan is:

  • first we make markup. The step between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
  • we screw the elements;
  • we check how exactly the parts are installed using a construction level.

Installation of thermal insulator

The material that acts as the heat insulator is placed between the elements of the crate. Mats laid tight. At the same time, the cracks are not formed. Mineral wool should not be silent.

If such flaws appear, they will later become cold bridges, which partially or completely levels warming work. Therefore, the material must lie tightly, but even.

Laying windproof film

On top of the insulation, it is also possible to lay a windproof membrane. This material will protect the Minvatu from the penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finishing. The principle of laying is the same as a vapor barrier film:

  1. We start working below.
  2. Making vertical stripes.
  3. We put in the back of 105-15 cm.
  4. Shakes are sicking with scotch.
  5. The membrane is fixed by the stapler to the crate.

Here it is appropriate to use still dowel fungi. This mechanical fastener will additionally fix the insulation and membrane.

Installation of crate for fastening finishing materials outside

An additional suit creates an even ventilation clearance that allows you to remove steam outside the interior. The size of the gap may vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulation material and the region in which the house is located.

Outdoor decoration of walls

As finishing material For a wooden house, you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the status of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the houses are too old, do not choose a heavy material, because the design may not withstand the load and collapse.

  • fully follow the installation instructions that the manufacturer offers;
  • details fixed to clamp elements;
  • choose dry weather;
  • perform a wooden house insulation only in the warm season.

Possible problems when insulation

Before insulateting the old wooden house, be sure to check how strong the design is. If there is a need, the walls and the foundation need to be strengthened. Those who have never engaged in a similar thing better to take care of a construction team, and not start experiments.

And those who still decided to do everything independently, should be clearly followed by the instructions and not to release any sight. It is important to properly prepare the basis, choose the insulation and finish.

Regardless of how the material was chosen for heating wooden facade walls, it is important to pack it a day to work to take it in the original form. . Implementation of thermal insulation is better in the warm season without precipitation per day

Implementation of thermal insulation is better in the warm season without precipitation per day.

Before starting the installation of the heater, it is important to check the structure of the house due to defects that require removal.

If the old finish does not comply with strength requirements, then the correct solution will be eliminated by subsequent purification of the front walls of the house with the help of compounds that protect them from mushrooms, bacteria and mold.

Considering that most wooden house heaters are based on cotton, it is important to protect the material from the effects of atmospheric humidity.

As an option, the tile can be made of roofing iron using the sealant to lubricate the joints.

Sheets on the ground is better attached by screws.

Variazolation layer of nuances

Cork insulation very well maintains heat and is well processing.

The presence in the wooden house of vaporizolation is very important, since as a result of insulation, the wall is blocked between 2 thermal insulation layers. In this case, the degree of moisture of the room rises, because the walls are not able to breathe

What to do in this case? Saves a high-quality ventilation system, only with its help is possible effective struggle With humidity. If you do not allow the walls on the walls, then avoid the occurrence of the process of rotting the tree.

Simply put, you need to equip high-quality vaporizolation. It is performed using a special film, which is placed on the wall surface of its schelchava side in the side of the wooden surface.

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Thermal insulation materials used

The main characteristic of thermal insulation is the coefficient of thermal conductivity. No less important when making a decision on choosing a particular material will be a combustibility class and density.

Mineral wool

Non-combustible, fibrous material produced from silicon and basalt rock melts, slag remnants of metallurgical production and their mixtures. Produced in the form of rolls or mats of various density.

With thermal insulation of vertical surfaces, it is more convenient to work with separate plates. The optimal density in this case should be in the range from 40 to 60 m³ / kg.

When used, it is necessary to use hydro and vaporizolation. Waste wet contributes to a sharp decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Polyfoam and Epps

The structure of foamed insulation, to which the EPPS and foams are a large number of closed, filled with air cells. This structure allows you to abandon the need to use any additional protective layers. The difference between the EPPS compared to the foam is more dense and, accordingly, more resistant to the effects of moisture structure.

When organizing work, you should keep your choice on low-mullese stamps (G1 or g2). G4 is characterized by excretion when burning caustic black smoke and burning droplets and is not allowed for use in wooden houses.

Wall insulation from within a wooden house

Minvata

As a rule, for the insulation of walls from the inside, minvat is used in a roll or in the form of "mat". To cope with the first, it will take work in 4 hands, whereas with the second it is quite possible to cope on your own.

Laying is carried out on the floor to the ceiling, observing a dense dust so that the seams are not visible. If there are any gaps, they need to be sealed, and then begin to lay the next layer of "pie" - the layer of vapor barrier. It is necessary to protect the Minvati from the exposure to the external environment of the room than the walls.

Parosolation must be laid by the braziness with the help of a stapler so that there are no seams, and if there are such, they immediately need to close the scotch.

After the work done, it is necessary to mount another crate, but the opposite first. It is on her that the finish coating will be attached.

Polyfoam

This material can also be attached to the crate, but there is a simpler way that will not take a lot of living space. The prepared and processed wall should be missed with a layer of glue and put on it the foam sheets with dense rows.

After the adhesive base is completely dry, the plates can be fixed with nails, smear the gaps and start the finish finish.

In conclusion, you can draw the following conclusions:

  1. Internal insulation is not desirable, but if necessary, it is permissible.
  2. There are materials suitable for these works.
  3. Before getting to insulation, you need to properly prepare the walls.

If there is not enough knowledge on the composition of the material and the correctness of its installation, you should consult with a specialist, so that years of years do not regret it in vain spent money. Yes, this simple, at first glance, work, how the caulking of walls requires skills and attention, and without creating ventilation, you can significantly reduce the "life" of the building. All this should be thought before the start of insulation inland walls Wooden house.

Warming of floors in a wooden house

In addition to the listed methods of insulation, which, as an option, are suitable for floors, there are several more.

Warm floor

The "warm floor" system, using IR film, is expensive, but at the moment is the most optimal energy-saving option, which, moreover, creates special comfort and comfort.

Fucking and filling floors

Warming with clay and concrete pouring are relevant for floors of the first and basement floors. The advantages include good thermal insulation properties and the available cost of materials.

There are also options for water and electric floors:

  • installation of electric floor in a wooden house,
  • water warm floor
  • and "dry" water warm floor.

Before starting work on internal insulation, it is recommended to consult with experts. Perhaps there is a way of external insulation of the facade, and then only work on the insulation of floors will remain inside.

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Technology insulation from inside Minvata

In order to secure a soft mineral wool on the wall, a framework of a frame will be required. In addition to the insulation, you will need:

  1. Wooden bars on the frame.
  2. Thin wooden rail.
  3. Parosolation (polyethylene or pergamine).
  4. Finishing materials, depending on the desire: OSB, plasterboard, DVP, PVC panels, etc.

Preparatory work

IN preparatory stage Included heat engineering calculationswhich will help choose the material thickness for a specific wall capable of keeping the heat indoors.

The area of \u200b\u200bthe insulated surface is calculated and the desired amount of material is purchased (for convenience, you can draw a house diagram to which the dimensions of all walls are sized, to deduct the area of \u200b\u200bwindows and doors from them).

The wall should be cleared of traces of the previous finish. Wallpapers are removed, plaster, raided, etc.

All shortcomings and irregularities are shuck. If the work is carried out on the basic log wall, then all the cracks are caught. Vertical is checked.

The walls are processed by an antiseptic and dry.

Instruction

  1. A waterproofing film is mounted on the wall. It should be well stretched to remain a small space between it and the wall. The joints of the film must be a muster more than 10 cm.
  2. A frame of boards or bars is assembled (located vertically). The width between the lags is slightly smaller than the width of Minvati.
  3. Increased insulation, the roll must be tightly inserted into the gaps between the lags.
  4. From above to lags, another layer of films is shot. Additionally, it is pressed to the insulation with the help of rails. Let the film be slightly longer and partially entering the floor and the ceiling.

Soft roll minvats are more suitable for the floor and the ceiling, and it is better to take mineral plates on the wall - a more dense insulation.

1 Warming of the walls of the country house from the inside

Before starting the insulation of the walls in a wooden house with your own hands, you should make a thorough cleaning of all surfaces from dust and dirt. If the house is manufactured using a bar, then thermal insulation can be provided by the penplex or mining.

Before this wooden surface country house, including the surface of the ceiling, the ribs of the bar, the walls of the attic, and the inner surface of the roof, must be subjected to detailed processing using a special emulsion against insects. All the insulation works of the country's wooden house, cited inside with their own hands consist of:

  • Staffing of the slots in the walls of the attic, the surface of the ceiling and inside the roof as when the house is insulated from a housekeeping outside;
  • Creating a vapor barrier for the floor with the use of timber;
  • Installation of crates;
  • Styling insulation and ensuring the sealing of the roof of the country house;
  • Creating a ventilation system between the walls of the attic;
  • Interior finishing works for the preparation of timber, ceiling and roofs.

In addition, with the inner insulation of the walls of a wooden cottage house made from a bar with their own hands, you need to closely monitor the state of electrical wiring.

For example, if the walls of the country house are made with the use of timber, and the technology implies the laying of surface wiring on the walls of the attic, it is not necessary to separate it from the wall surface.

To do this, it is enough to hide the wiring into special decorative covers. Inside them, the wiring will be safe.

How can you warm the wooden house from the inside

After the walls are cleaned, and the thermal insulation is prepared, it is necessary to carry out the cacapatic of all available slots.

Konopka is carried out not only on the surface of the nurse's walls, but also in the inner surface of the roof. It is known that when the house is erected with the use of a bar, a repeated canopate of the floor, the walls of the attic and the inner surface of the roof only a year after the commissioning of the structure is commissioned .

In the event that in the house with the insulation of the brusade house outside, the people built from the bar immediately began to live people, drying the ceiling, the floor and the inner surface of the roof will be carried out much slower.

Based on this, the second caispatic makes sense to spend at least 2-3 years. By the way, for the cacopa of the walls of the house made from the bar with their own hands, in most cases the jute fiber is applied.

After that, you should proceed to the insulation of the walls of the penplex or mino. The inner surface of the ceiling and roof (in the attic) can also be insulated with a penplex with their own hands.

Warming up a wooden house, or what should be aware of the heating technology from the inside

To avoid this, you need to understand some subtleties of insulation indoors and follow proper technology. First, you should take into account the displacement of the dew point: when the walls are insulated outside it is from the outside of the walls, whereas when insulation inside it shifts on the inner side of the wall. It is this factor that contributes to the increase in dampness and the accelerated destruction of the wood, which was mentioned above. Also shifting the dew point entails turning the insulation, which reduces it beneficial features No. This is especially precisely delicious.

In order to prevent it, it is necessary to use a steamproof film that protects the insulation from condensate. However, its use entails a new problem - greenhouse effect. There is a solution for this task - the insulation mounting technology provides ventilation gaps in the design.

It is implemented by mounting the crates - wooden races around the entire perimeter of the insulated surface. Make it in the presence of the necessary set of tools is easy and with your own hands. Also, the shap is served to reliably fix the insulation and the subsequent installation of the facing. It is also worth considering the ventilation system in advance, since all natural slits of walls in the process of insulation will be embedded.

Installation of insulation and work on its sealing

Circuit floor insulation diagram in a wooden house.

By installing the crate, start to lay mineral wool. To begin with, the roll is spinning and cut off the mineral wool strip in height. The width of the strip must be 2 cm exceeding the interbruck gap vertically.

Then the segment of mineral wool is located between the bars, fixing to the surface of the wall with the help of anchors with round large hats. This type of work requires the presence of a partner, which will help to keep or fasten cotton.

After filling out the inter-brass space of the Minvata in one layer on top of the bar, the second layer of the insulation is fixed. A layer of hydroplenches is fixed onto cotton, overlapping the heater. In addition to the function of protection against moisture, the film here will be performed another purpose - to keep the minor particles of Minvati into the space of a wooden house.

Creating a ventilation system

As mentioned above, after work on the internal warming of the brusade house, the humidity inside it will increase significantly.

Scheme of vapor insulation walls of a wooden house.

To ensure a normal microclimate, you need to provide forced ventilation in all rooms.

Straight hoods out to be put unacceptable. You must create an air duct system connected in one chain. Any axial fan medium and even low power Can perform the role of the supercharger. In winter, it will be enough to include homemade device Ventilation for half an hour a day to create optimal humidity in rooms.

Wall decoration

After attaching the second layer of the vapor barrier film, the walls begin to separate the walls. The film is pinned to the bars using a stapler and brackets, which will give the opportunity over the bracket to attach the rails of 30x40 mm to the film. Such rails are available.

I mounted such a bar, it is carried out by trimming wooden clapboard With a pronounced texture. The insulation of the house with the subsequent cladding clapper will allow not to lose the primordial view of the interior from the tree. Instead of lining, you can set horizontally planken, which will also be quite a good solution, since this material seems to resemble a small timber.

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If you still warm from the inside

Despite the obvious fact that it is usually simpler to warm the room from the inside, this option I did not get widespread. This has several reasoned grounds. And the cutting area is not the worst.

What moments should be considered

Wall inspired walls are really warming up, and temperature drops lead to such a situation when, due to the effects of the temperature difference, the dew point moves into thermal insulation layers, i.e. In the insulation, as a result, it becomes raw in the room and sometimes on the walls even settle the condensate of water vapor, which can provoke a molding molding for a wooden house, mold will appear. Partly save the situation helps the device of vapor barrier by film, but in this case, so that the feelings do not make sure that they live in a polyethylene package, you need to take care of effective forced ventilation in room.
You can avoid unwanted consequences, if you significantly increase the thickness of the insulation, which usually causes the resistance of the owners of the house, because the living area is significantly reduced due to this.

Scheme of internal insulation

Warming at home from the inside requires a certain sequence of steps. Scheme: 1. System of vaporizolation; 2. Heat insulation; 3. Waterproofing; 4. Clapboard.

Other Wood Floor Warming Methods

Mineral wool insulation scheme.

Warm house from the inside can various methods. The most simple and economical is a single floor insulation system. It does not need to build a draft and finishing floor. In this case, insulation will be carried out directly on the foundation or on the strapping. At the first stage, the base of the floor is falling asleep with a bulk mixture based on sand and gravel. The layer thickness is about 2 cm. Ruberoid rolls are stacked on it, and there is a sandy-gravel mixture on them. These materials will provide good waterproofing. Then the polyethylene film is attached to the base of the floor using a stapler.

The next step is the laying of the insulation. For these purposes, it is recommended to use Penoplex. It is stacked in the form of plates in one layer. It is placed on tree fiber plates in 2 layers. After that, the installation of the first floor is carried out. It is possible to warm the floor using an electrical cable. Today, the floor with electric heating is quite common. But at the same time it must be remembered that such insulation is unsafe in the fireplace, especially for a wooden house. Therefore, we will not consider it in detail.

What warm wood houses inside

Most often the house of the bar inside insulate various species Building wool - basalt (mineral), fiberglass and other. These are light and affordable materials, environmentally friendly. Industry produces rolled and block types of wool.

Basalt Wat. Well keeps warm, but passes air. Thanks to this, its quality, the rooms do not appear fungus and mold.

Rolled basalt wool

Glasswater It absorbs a lot of moisture, so in order to avoid the appearance of condensate, it makes an extra layer of waterproofing. Large disadvantage of glass gambles consider its complex structure. The material is saturated with a large number of glass microparticles (hence the name). When working with cotton, they enter the breathing organs, on clothing. Special clothing and respirator are needed for safe operation with glass.

All types of wool are easy mounted. To install heat-insulator from such a material, high qualifications are not required. Roll types of wool have high plasticity, but they are less dense, in comparison with blocks. When working with rolled materials, you can cut off the required amount of the insulator. Tile do one size, so during the installation of the crates take into account the size of pieces.

Wool in plates

Wooden wall insulation is also conducted by foam or polystyrene foam.

Polystyrene foam Popular due to its low cost. In addition, it just works with him and it is well kept warm. It is a good soundproofer. The disadvantage is considered to be released by material toxic substances during combustion.

How the heat loss in the wooden house

Wooden house walls have natural gaps and gaps that need to be seal

The process has a specific algorithm. In general, the tree in itself is an excellent insulating material. Walls from wood due to its natural structure freely "breathe", perfectly stored heat and creating the most favorable microclimate for people in the dwelling. Nevertheless, warmly goes - through the connectivity, interventic gaps, as well as through the angles, passing, doors and windows. In addition, with time, materials give a natural shrinkage under the vicinity of different, incl. Weather factors. Additional gaps and cracks are formed. So the natural mobility of the tree, being his dignity, turns into a disadvantage when it comes to hermetic. So the need arises in the thermal insulation of all the fistulas that occurred.

How to isolate a wooden house in the interior

When overhaul And heating the walls of the old house must be cleaned of them from colors or old background to the "alive" panel.

Heating occurs according to the scheme:

  • cleaning wall;
  • wood processing with antiseptics;
  • detection point dew;
  • laying steam barrier;
  • laying of thermal insulation material;
  • exterior finish.

Depending on the material used, the outer surface is immediately decorative or intermediate - for example, plasterboard plates, which are then stained or tap.

What materials are necessary for the inner insulation of the wall

For full, technically correct thermal insulation you will need:

  • antiseptic for wood;
  • pair-protective film;
  • bar or metal profile for the box;
  • direct heater;
  • material for outdoor decoration.

For outdoor treatment, the most popular drywall, the optimal combination of price and comfort when working with it, this material becomes the most popular among the finishes.

In addition, it has a negative combustibility, which is important for a wooden structure. . Learn more about the internal processing of plaster

Learn more about the internal processing of plaster.

Manufacturers of building materials and building materials offer various modern materials, including polystyrene foam and OSB (oriented chipstock).

In a photodegraded chipboard for inner isolation

Expanded polystyrene is the type of foam obtained by special technology, convenient and inexpensive universal insulation (see

also on external insulation with expanded polystyrene).

The tool will require drill or screwdriver, stapler for fixing vapors, measuring tape and level.

Pros and cons internal insulation

The wooden house is usually insulated outside, but what to do if construction is finished on a rainy season or perform insulation outside there is no possibility? In this case, use internal. But this installation has a number of disadvantages that should be taken into account before work:

  1. Room area from within a log house is reduced to the width of the insulation design.
  2. With incorrect installation, the microclimate into the room will be broken. In the premises there are excessive humidity, and as a result, mold and fungi.

Pros of such insulation:

  1. Opening from the inside can be performed at any time of the year and at any temperature.
  2. With internal insulation, you can save appearance Natural facade.
  3. Easy installation Unlike finishing a wooden facade.
  4. Worth it inner insulation Cheaper.

But before insulating the walls of the log house, it is necessary to determine the reason for their freezing. Experts celebrate several factors affecting the freezing:

  1. The outer thermal insulator was not properly labeled or a rather thick layer was selected.
  2. A barbell or log was natural humidity and did not dry enough. When drying in the wall appeared slots.
  3. Installation of the links was performed without compliance with technology, and the masonry was broken.

Before the inner insulation, you need to try to fix these reasons as much as possible.

Selection of material

Materials are mainly from the inside: plaster, minvatu and foam. These materials are most suitable due to low heat transfer and editing prostate. Immediately make a reservation that it is not recommended to warm the walls from the inside glass. Its particles easily move through the air and can cause serious complications of the respiratory system.

Consider what pros and cons have plaster, minvat and foam:

Warm plaster is mainly used in old houses. Such a method of internal insulation of time consuming, but sup. And Minvata is easier, although more expensive. With all this, the use of foam from the inside will give the opportunity to save part of the area, since its heat resistance is low (materials are used thinner). But because of its ease of fire, use it inside the house from the tree is not safe.

Professionals in the video are told on the material for internal insulation:

How is the internal insulation

Wall insulation, floor, ceiling, roofs and foundations with their own hands occurs in a wooden building in different ways.

Before thermal insulation of the walls and the ceiling, you must first close all the slots with a pacle or felt. You can choose for this and other materials.

All wood needs to be treated with antiseptic means, which will prevent the decoration and infection of the tree.

From above, all this is covered with vapor insulation, making small allowances along the edges. The last stage of wall decoration is the finish of their plasterboard.

In a private house, it is necessary to warm not only the walls, but also floors. Floor insulation is a laborious process, but quite feasible.

Flooring the floor in a private house is quite possible to do independently, it will help heat insulating the room, but usually takes a few centimeters of the height of the room.

For the insulation of the floor of the old house first align concrete base, remove different defects. Then concrete is closed with waterproofing, which will save the floor from moisture.

Free space between lags is filled with a heater for the floor, which can be used mineral wool.

The material should lie tight between lags. Further layer of the insulation is covered with PVC film, after which the floor is trimmed with chipboard or plywood plates.

In most cases, insulation is required for the foundation of a wooden house. For thermal insulation of the foundation, grazit and foam plates are most often used.

The insulation of the foundation of the ceramzite is a prevalent method that is best used for the heat insulation of the underground, the inner part of the foundation and space under the floors.

The insulation of the foundation in this case is to create a pillow, which absorbs excess moisture and creates an additional airspace.

This method of thermal insulation of the foundation is based on the heat insulating properties of the air, which is between the insulation granules. Due to this insulation of the foundation, the house does not freeze below.

For the insulation of the foundation and samples along the house they make a trench, purify the foundation, repaired, if necessary, waterproof.

For insulation of the base part of the foundation and sample, insulation are used in the form of plates or shockting.

It is possible to separate the foundation and the basement with the help of foam plates. The plates can be any thickness, so separating the basement can be so thick as a heater, which will allow achieving maximum insulation.

The lack of foam and polystyrene is a flammability of the material, however, to warm the basement or the base they are permissible.

To insulate a basement or the foundation with your own hands, first need to prepare the surface: scraping the remnants of the soil and dirt, bitumen and oil. If necessary, the surface is repaired, and then coated with coating waterproofing.

On the plates point shock in several places and glued to the base, slightly pressing. The glue dries about two days, after which the underground part of the foundation can be filled.

To insulate the base, the foam layer isolate from the tree, for example, using glass gambles. After the glue on the layers of the insulation will freeze, you need to additionally strengthen all the layers using a dowel-nail.

In recent years, it is possible to insulate the foundation and basement at home with the help of polyurethane foam.

This technology consists in spraying a special thermal insulation material on a wooden surface.

It is not necessary to simply prepare the foundation, it is enough to clean the wood and repair in the right places. It is possible to warm the foundation and basement in this way both outside and from the inside.

The process of heating walls from the inside of a wooden house

First, the walls are cleaned (remove damaged parts of the tree), then the walls must be processed by an eco-friendly antiseptic.

In specialized stores, their choice is sufficient, the average cost of the order is 1000-1500 rubles for 10 liters.

This range is sufficient for processing 100 square meters of the surface.

After processing, you must calculate the dew point in accordance with the Special Program and, according to these calculations, specify your location on the wall after installing the fan.

Then you need to install a steam barrier.

It must be done - the steam lock protects the wooden facade from condensate, which occurs when the hot and cold air is in contact.

For the insulation of steam fence, a non-perforated film is used, which is available in rolls, especially in case of steam insulation.

The film is attached to the wall with the stapler.

Then a string is formed along the level with a distance equal to the width of the insulating sheet. Then the thermal insulation is tightly inserted between the vertical profile.

The last stage is fixing gypsum boards.

This insulation will help significantly reduce the cost of heating at home in winter and cool summer.

How much is the invitation of the command of the end players?

In each region, their prices, mostly finite caps, make up the square meter of each layer.

But if you count on average, the cost of the square meter of the inner insulation of the walls is about 500-600 rubles.

It's not so much if you think experts will do good workAnd the house will keep warm for many years without any additional repairs.

How to attach the heater to the wooden wall

The addition of the heater to the wooden wall can be completed when the design starts to work and at the stage of completion of the facade.

Both options are acceptable, the main thing is to choose the correct heating material and work according to the installation technology.

Warming Wooden Houses

If it is decided to insulate the walls of the wooden house from the inside, you need to know that in this case the walls can condensate. This is especially subjected to the northern places of the globe, where in winter it is very cold, and in the premises warm. This is due to the effects of the temperature difference, during which the dew point moves into the layers of the insulation. Correct this situation can filmwhich is used with the insulation, or spend good ventilation.

Necessary inventory

  • Electrolovka, shock drill, screwdriver, cizyanka, roulette, level, plumbing, chisel, screwdriver, hammer.
  • Wooden bars.
  • Felt, foam or palable.
  • Material for insulation of walls, for example, glass gamble.
  • Plasterboard.
  • Shplanke.

Modern materials for thermal insulation of walls

  • Ekwata.- This material perfectly fills all the present slots and emptiness in the walls, at the same time preventing wall blowing. Does not penetrate moisture inside, preventing this appearance of fungal infections. One of the few breathable materials.
  • Glasswater- Selecting this material in insulation, you should take care of the insulation indoors, as glass gamble passes inside a small amount of moisture,as a result, thermal insulation qualities deteriorate.
  • Polystyrene foam- One of the most common materials for insulation of walls in wooden houses. First of all manit his cheapness. Also positive qualities are elasticity and ease. Material has heat-viciously insulating qualities.

Technology insulation walls

All slots in the wall must be seen by foam, linen felt or palauls. You can choose any material with which it is more convenient to work. We make a doomlet from a wooden bar. We place a place to set the extreme elements of the root

This particular attention should be paid to this, on the first bars depends on how much the following will be attached, therefore, to clean, use the level and plumb.

If the definition of the first timber is completed, it should be consolidated with screws and dowels. Mounted follows every 25-30 cm.Then, from the first bar, we measure 1 meter and the fastener of the second one also in parallel to the first, etc. It is not yet formed a full perimeter of the root on the whole wall. If there are found on the way window Operas, they should be closed in a circle.

Each bar it is necessary to handle antisepticsTo prevent rotting and appearance of fungi. Goths are ready. Between the bars should be laid insulation. No need to use glue, the material and so it will be tightly kept between the shap and the wall.

Making isolation. For vaporizolation used Fillet or polyethyleneIt is superimposed on top of the insulation with a small allowance at the edges.

Last Stage - Finishing

We are wearing the walls with plasterboard, screw it to the trim from the bars, it is important that the plates firmly fit together. If the gaps appeared, they should be sharpened

Warming Wall insulation from within

The insulation of the building made of wood occurs in several stages. Work with different insulation will look different. Since the mineral wool is considered the most common insulation at the moment, we will tell you how to make the insulation of the walls of the house with their own hands.

Stages of insulation of house walls do it yourself:

  1. First of all, it is necessary to clean the wooden walls from pollution. The old layer of finishing, if any, is removed. Naked and clean wall is processed by antiseptics.
  2. Next you need to careen walls. If this new house, then the cachatka occurs a year after the construction, if it lived, then through three. Konopka implies stuffing the material, for example, jute, in the slot between the logs. Work is made with a thin chisel.
  3. The installation of moisture insulation is made. To do this, the vapor insulating canvas is taken, and is applied with a rough side to the logs, after which it is nailed with a construction stapler. The joints between the segments of such a canvase should be a 15 cm bracket, nor skill with scotch.
  4. Now time to make a crate. To do this, you need to take a wooden timber 5x5 cm, and make a crate from it, placing elements in 50-60 centimeters increments.
  5. The resulting crate is inserted layers of mineral wool. They are attached with the help of a construction stapler. Ambassador installation of mineral wool, it must be closed with a layer of waterproofing material.
  6. In the last stage, the design is sewn with plasterboard. After that, there is a facial finish.

By the same principle, insulation of the year. Of course, we presented a brief scheme of insulation of the house, but in principle it can be done all the necessary stages.

Wall insulation from within a wooden house in various ways

"Warm seam" for insulation inside a wooden house

To preserve complete environmentally friendly, it is possible to replace sealants on jute, felt or flax ribbon and legitimate seams by them.

The cost of the works of cavity of the seams inside the house ranges from 120 to 250 rubles for the temporon meter.

This is quite affordable price Even for families with a small budget. Therefore, it is recommended to invite specialists for a log insulation, only they can guarantee high quality of work.

Mineral wool

Universal insulation, which is more often used outside. Available cost and high thermal insulation indicators make this material most popular among developers.

Warming technology is the same and for walls, and for ceilings.

Positive properties of mineral wool:

  • high environmental friendliness, especially in modern materials, where formaldehyde is replaced by safer components;
  • available cost - the material is considered the cheapest option of insulation inside a wooden house;
  • good thermal insulation and noise insulating indicators;
  • nonseasing;
  • durability - the material does not rot, not subject to fungal diseases;
  • good rigid records, which, by the way, is at the same time both dignity and disadvantage.

Negative properties include:

  • the same steam-resistant, which is why indoors can be created unfavorable microclimate for light people;
  • shrinkage during wetting;
  • the need to sneak the wall by the facial material (create a false wall).

Features of insulation of mineral wool walls and wooden ceilings

In contrast to the outer insulation, inside the material is glued directly on the wall, then it is trimmed with vapor insulation.

It is best to use a special parobararier that allows air from the room to pass out.

This will create an additional natural ventilation to the insulation. Even in the case of wetting, Wata can dry by the bandwidth properties of the parobacker.

A bagproofing (can be under it) is installed, a barbell or a metal profile, which is already attached to the facing material, plasterboard, board, lining, imitation of the bar, and so on.

Polystyrene foam

Polymer material based on foam, but without chemically harmful components.

Suitable for insulation inside a wooden house.

In the photo - extruded polyurelistirol "Penopelex"

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties, small weight, durability and moisture resistance.

When choosing this material, such concepts such as foamed and extruded polystyrene foam can be found.

In fact, it is the same material, the difference is only in the methods of its manufacture.

The main features of insulation expanded polystyrene is the need for careful surface alignment and sealing of seams between sheets. Old boards should be cleared of irregularities and roughness, and for a log cabin, the material is not suitable at all.

The junctions between the sheets of the material are proputed and cleaned after drying the foam.

Just like mineral wool, polystyrene foam is suitable for insulation not only walls, but also the ceilings.

Polyurene Foolder

The material of the future, which is applied in the liquid form by a special device. For insulation, polyurethane foam must be mounted a frame, which is filled with foam under pressure. It quickly freezes and forms a monolithic protective layer of the insulation.

Polyurethane foam spraying

Polyurethane Foolder reliably protect the house not only from the cold and external noise, but also will give additional security guarantees during fire.

The disadvantages include the complexity of finishing work after insulating this material.

It is required to plaster using a special grid.

Work on the preparation of the surface to insulation

The first stage of insulation works provides for preliminary training of surfaces.

When working on laying thermal insulation material, it is necessary to protect organs of breathing and vision from entering small dust and other substances.

To begin with, clean all the surfaces of the walls from dirt and dust. And then you can proceed to careful treatment of wooden walls with the help of a special composition that protects the tree from insect reproduction. Very well, if the composition you selected will additionally perform a function that prevents the process of rotting wooden surfaces, and protect it not only from moisture, but also from the danger of fire.

And yet, at the same stage, it is necessary to take care of the safety of electrical wiring. If there is a variant of its superficial location, then it is necessarily separated from the wall. Close up gap

Having done all the procedures above, you can start by the second stage of insulation. It provides for the execution of works to eliminate existing cracks. They must be carefully done. Many people know that after the bar is built, it is necessary to carry out an additional procedure for eliminating the slots, approximately after 1 year.

Naturally, this is done if the house remained non-residential. When operating the room, the repeated constant of the slots can be carried out later, after about 3 years. What is best to legish a gap? Usually for these purposes, such material is used as a jute fiber.

From the tools you need a chisel, preferably wide and quite thin. For cracks, a particular large size is used with a ribbon pass, which is used in the form of a roller before placing in the gap. Flore the slots are necessary until the material used will not be placed in them.

Back to the category

Before insulation at home from the inside, we offer to see a few tips that will allow it to make the most qualitatively. These instructions are based on the experience of professionals.

Wooden house can not be insulated in the first year after its construction. This time is enough to build a duty and accepted a permanent size.

Wall insulation has some nuances. You will have to spend a little time for their study, but as a reward you get a qualitatively insulated building.

Tips for insulation at home with their own hands:

  1. Wall structures from wood, warmed on both sides, can be lit and danced. A competently composed ventilation system will help to prevent such a problem.
  2. Even if it seems to you that the wall freezes only in one place, everything is too early to warm up all the walls in the house at once.
  3. Battery seats need to be insulated with foil material. This will ensure the receipt of more heat into the room.
  4. Between the insulation and the wall need to leave some space. So the thermal insulation of the walls will not affect their humidity.
  5. Before starting insulation, treat the walls with a moisture-repellent composition. So you can avoid side effects of internal insulation.

It is possible to warm the walls at home with a foam

Warming the walls of the building from the inside need correctly. Otherwise, you will not only be able to ensure the preservation of heat, but also provoke it a faster loss.

Correct material

When theoretical part is complete, time to go to practice. And for this, first of all it is necessary to choose the right insulation.

Requirements, nominated:

  • Low thermal conductivity;
  • Compliance with fire safety requirement;
  • Strength and durability;
  • Ecology, safety.

From the selected material directly depends on the way we will produce insulation at home.

  1. Insulation - plates from minvati or basalt wool. Old proven way to make the house warmer. It is worth choosing for such qualities as high sound and thermal insulation, environmental friendliness. Minus - the material is not very durable, however, the enlightest design is erected. Another nuance: This insulation is extremely hygroscopic, so requires an additional layer of vaporizolation.
  2. Polyfoam (polystyrene plates). This insulation is just modern builders not recommended to use, because this material is not environmentally friendly, it highlights styrene. Whatever breathing and useful to the tree from which you erected your home, such thermal insulation of the walls will reduce all utility for no. If this material will burn, then allocate substances will be even more dangerous: toluleniisocyanate and hydrogen cyanide. True, it is only in the case of the use of continuous polystyrene. If you will produce insulation of walls in a wooden house with an extruded foam with a combustible class G1, this option can be considered possible. Installation, as in the previous case, implies the presence of a enclosing structure.
  3. Glasswater. Almost the first thing comes to mind when you think about how to warm the wooden house from the inside. The material is very popular, because it costs even less than basalt wool, and warmth is higher. Please note: inside a wooden house for insulation, you can only take the glass gambler, which was made specifically for this, this is a special variety. Also required an additional film layer. Surely you know that particles are harmful to health, so they are armed with special protection when installing. The cheek is also necessary.
  4. Isoplat is already a product of modern production. This extruded linen fiber on a fiber plate. Thickness - from 1.2 to 2.5 cm. The material is very durable, so it does not require the construction of the enveloping design, while the environmentally friendly, shown in use inside residential houses. There are cons: lower heat and a higher price. So choose yourself based on your priorities.
  5. Polyurethane-spraying. As clearly out of the name, the material is sprayed on the surface using special equipment, which increases the cost of the process. But it does not need a doom.

Budding reference materials

As you see from the description, the project we will have quite large-scale. That is why it is worth it to him with full responsibility, and most importantly - to make a sufficiently detailed budget.

Mineralized Middle Density Plates -Universal (Altextricular) Material

This will help you with reference materials shown in Table:

Material unit of measurement Average cost, rubles
Mineral Wool ISOVER 1200x600x100 mm packaging 4 pcs. 1400 -1700
Insulation Rockwool 800x600x50 mm packaging 4 pcs. 650 - 800
Jute sealant 10 cm m. Pog. 8 - 10
Cord butyl rubber 8 mm m. Pog. 12 -16
Sealant for warm seam 3 kg 1400 -1600
Moss for Konopkka bag 10 kg 300 - 450
Windproof Membrane for Rockwool walls 70 m2. 1500 - 1700
Film vaporizolation 70 m2. 670 - 750
Bituminous mastic 20 kg 350 - 500
Universal antiseptic 5 L. 450 - 600
Firemaster Firemaster CSD 10 L. 550 - 600
Pinotex imprara impregnation 10 L. 4800 -5200
PSB foam-from 25, 1000x1000x50 mm sheet 170 – 220
Polystyrene foam sheet, 1250х600х50 mm sheet 180 – 220
Bar wooden for frame, 6 m pC. 90 – 180
Larch block house, 22x90 mm 1 m2. 650 - 1200
Lining for walls 1 m2. 250 – 400
Plasterboard moisture resistant sheet 300 - 450

From the inside insulated designs we are wearing lining or similar material

Some techniques for thermal insulation of the wooden structure from the inside

Depending on the materials used and the methods of work, there are several techniques of thermal insulation of wooden walls from the inside of the room.

Warm seam

Technology of insulation of walls "Warm seam" is sealing of joints, seams.

Warm seam is used when the wall laying is not planned to be separated by various decorating plasters. This method reduces the thermal conductivity of seams of masonry and wall joints. The material is directly located between the walls of the wall.

For this, synthetic sealants (acrylic, silicone, bitumen rubber, latex) are used, more traditional methods can be applied. These are natural sealants - flank, flax rope, palable.

Benefits:

  • warming can be held with their own hands, as there is nothing complicated in the technique of execution;
  • the method is beneficial from an economic point of view;
  • not disturbing the beauty of wooden laying, is able to increase the thermal insulation characteristics of the wall;
  • it is characterized by a rapid ability, which is favorably reflected on the microclimate in the room and the durability of the fender construction.

Mineral wool insulation

Mates from mineral (basalt) fibers, glass gambles or slag fiber protruding. This material is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, capable of absorbing noises, consists of environmentally friendly components. However, since it has a fibrous structure, it is capable of passing the steam through itself and accumulate water in itself, and therefore the presence of waterproofing and vaporizolation layers when the wooden walls are insulated from the inside of the room be sure.

Stages of work:

  1. close up all the gaps and cracks in the masonry. To do this, you can use various synthetic sealants. Be sure to handle the wall with an antiseptic;
  2. organization of crates. Consists of two parts. First transverse lamp. It is performed from metal profiles that are placed in increments of 80 cm from each other and across the log laying. The second part is a counterclaim. Performed from the same profiles at the same distance, only along the masonry. The lamp will allow you to attach the insulation to the wall surface and will ensure the presence of a ventilated gap. Its main purpose is to remove the excess steam with the streams of constant circulating air and not to give condensate;
  3. installation of insulation. Mineral wool is better used in the form of mats, since a similar structure is able to withstand significant mechanical loads without prejudice to its heat insulating characteristics. The insulation is not glued to the surface of the walls, it is placed by the Muspist between the profiles of the crate. The joints of the joints should not have a width of more than 2 mm. They are close to special sticky ribbons;
  4. parosolation. It should be laid in the brass and with a small allowance, it does not break through the thermal expansion of the material;
  5. finish finish. It is attached to the metallic profile, and if lags performed as the fasteners, then to them. It may be fiberboard, chipboard, plasterboard, lining.

Warming walls of a wooden house with foam

Walls the walls of the foam of a wooden house from the inside very rarely.

This method is used very rare due to condensate formation, as the foam - a steamproof material. However, if there is a properly organized waterproofing and vaporizolation layers, this technique is able not only to protect the walls of the building from the cold, but also to ensure a pleasant microclimate in it.

In addition, the advantage is the low cost of the material itself. The foam is easy to install, therefore, it's not difficult to carry out the wooding of a wooden house on its basis. Due to its low thermal conductivity at a low thickness of the insulation, it is possible to significantly save the useful space of the house.

we also conduct liquid thermal insulation mixtures (eco-plating, polyurethane foam, wet plaster). If the last method is used for a long time, the first two recently appeared in construction and have not yet been widely used. Although the advantages of this method of insulation of the walls are obvious. This is the formation of a seamless layer, simplicity spraying, the insulation does not need steam and hydraulic.

Where to begin

Initially, it is necessary to determine the tree of the tree, from which the house is folded, because there are heat-insulating rocks, and therefore costs may decrease. The main thing is to determine the shortcomings and eliminate them, usually this appearance of the gaps, incorrect labeling of the insulation, cracking the logs.

After identifying the shortcomings and the determination of the spectrum of work, it is proceeded to the insulation of the walls. In front of the hosts in this case, it is worth choosing which way to insulate: inner or outdoor. Easier, although the outdoor option has its advantages, sometimes the best way out of this situation is the combination of two ways.

The key to success is to properly comply with the material fastening technology and protect it from moisture. You can work with your own hands, because the process itself is not technically difficult.

  1. Without the creation of a competent ventilation system, wooden walls hidden under vapor insulation from two sides can start rotting and danced. Ventilation for a wooden house is best to provide immediately and make it a single scheme in ventilation. And for the discharge to use any axial fan. Working for 30 minutes a day in heating seasons, such ventilation will save the walls in perfect condition. If you do not have sufficient knowledge about this work, read several articles or see the thematic video that is not difficult to find on the network.
  2. If only a small part of the wall began to freeze, then you need to warm everything around the perimeter.
  3. For insulation of places under batteries and radiators, you can use foloisol. It has a small thickness. It should be stacked with a foil to the radiator, so it will become an excellent heat reflector.
  4. Between the insulation and the wooden wall it is better to leave a small space. So excess moisture will be better pulled out, and the walls will not be witch.

Choosing any stuff, it costs several times to calculate the interior area, so you do not get unnecessary. Before working, carefully look at the thematic video on the network, and reread phased work. And after performing the insulation of the walls, do not neglect the same ceiling processing. Otherwise, heat will go through the roof or half the floor, and the work carried out will be useless.

Selection of insulation

What to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? In a residential building there is always a high percentage of humidity. People breathe, cook food, etc. The moisture enters the building materials and penetrates them.

After all, one of the main requirements is to allow the tree to "breathe", getting rid of condensate.

If the same is done with internal insulation, steam will reach wooden walls and falls into condensate in front of them or inside them.

In winter it will be a freezing, and in the summer - dampness.

Therefore, with internal insulation, on the contrary, it is better to use hermetic materials.

The problem of removing wet stagnant air must be solved!

If the walls are trimmed with a hermetic insulation, it is simply necessary to take care of good adjunt - exhaust ventilation.

Consider options:

Styrofoam

The first comes to mind because inexpensive, perfectly holds heat and practically impervious. But the walls inside it inside is not recommended, because of its flammability.

The foam in a matter of seconds turns into a molten mass that highlights caustic smoke and dripping. The ceilings are forbidden to warm them categorically, and the walls are at their own risk.

Extruded expanded polystyrene foam

EPPS is a penplex, thermoplex and others.

The same foam, but made on another technology.

So he resists fire much better.

In addition, the density for compression has more, and therefore it will not be necessary to be afraid for the waist on the wall. The price is higher than the polyfoam, but the simplest safe installation pays for it.

Mineral wool

A good insulation, resistant to fire, affordable, but completely imputative wets. If the glass gamble, basalt wool (or any other) will gain moisture, its thermal insulation properties will fall almost to zero.

Build a bag of minvati, bought by polyethylene, is also not the most the best decisionbecause when fastening, in the film will still get holes, and the installation of troublesome, but for non -ion better options, technology enjoy.

Sprayed materials

These sprayed materials are gaining popularity as:

  • polyurethane foam;
  • foamizole;
  • equata.

They have excellent thermal insulation properties, do not combustible or belong to the middle category of flammability, quite a small thickness.

Minus such materials - at high cost. Professional equipment and brigade requires special skills.

Other insulation

The remaining materials are unsuitable for use inside. Warming with plaster practically does not give effect. Penophol - good stuffBut too thin. It can be used if a small insulation is required.

How to warm the house from the bar outside

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Outdoor or facade insulation of a house from a bar is most often one of two ways:

  1. with the device of the ventilated facade system;
  2. using the technology "wet" facade.

For the first option, the framework is necessarily mounted for which it is recommended to use dry lumber, and not metal profiles that can be the source of formation of cold bridges.

After the doom is ready:

  • stacked a layer of vaporizolation;
  • the next layer is insulation;
  • on top of the insulation, if mineral wool is used in its quality, one more layer of vapor barrier film is recommended, which will simultaneously perform both windscreens.

In cases where you need to perform warming a veranda in a wooden house - You can use the same method, as in this case an additional load on the supporting structures is not created and a non-uniform shrinkage will not occur.

But the bonus becomes the fact that the house will increase the useful area, which can be actively used in the cold season.

The next step is the device of the counterbalable that performs several functions at the same time:

  • additionally records heat and vaporizolation;
  • creates a clearance required to ventilating space;
  • serves as the basis for mounting the finishing material.

Often the timber is selected for construction precisely as inexpensive material, and the facade is trimmed with bricks. But before insulationing the house from the bar in this way, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the brick when designing the foundation.

House made of chopped logs, logging. - Here is more useful information.

This method is often used for the reconstruction of old wooden housesBut only after the study of the basis of the foundation of the house was carried out.

You will be interested in this article - chopped house: technology and secret of popularity.

If it turns out that the foundation is not able to withstand an additional load, under brick facing The house is arranged a new independent basis. And to reduce the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the walls, a layer of insulation, most often, foam or mineral wool is stacked between the timber and brick.

If nevertheless, no insulation inside the house can not do, then the procedure for action is: you must first create a framework, arrange a vapor insulation layer and lay the insulation.

The upper decorative layer in this case will be a plasterboard design or lining. Although other materials can be used, depending on the functional purpose of the premises, the financial capabilities of the developer and personal preferences.

Ribbon foundation with your own hands.

Chopped house: technology and secret of popularity.











Wooden buildings are well held warm. But if in the conditions of a warm climate to maintain comfortable conditions in the house there is enough natural properties of wood, then in the regions with low winter temperatures the house must be additionally insulated. Installation of the thermal insulator is carried out on the walls, the floor, the ceiling - if you leave without a coating any surface, the insulation of a wooden house from the inside will be less efficient. It will be more correct to make insulation even during construction - in the caught room, it is much more difficult to carry out work

When installing the insulation, there is necessarily a gap for circulation of air. This allows you to prevent moisture accumulation in the rooms, the appearance of mold and fungus.

What warm wood houses inside

Most often, the house of the bar inside is insulate with various types of construction wool - basalt (mineral), fiberglass and other. These are light and affordable materials, environmentally friendly. Industry produces rolled and block types of wool.

Basalt Wat. Well keeps warm, but passes air. Thanks to this, its quality, the rooms do not appear fungus and mold.

Glasswater It absorbs a lot of moisture, so in order to avoid the appearance of condensate, it makes an extra layer of waterproofing. Large disadvantage of glass gambles consider its complex structure. The material is saturated with a large number of glass microparticles (hence the name). When working with cotton, they enter the breathing organs, on clothing. Special clothing and respirator are needed for safe operation with glass.

All types of wool are easy mounted. To install heat-insulator from such a material, high qualifications are not required. Roll types of wool have high plasticity, but they are less dense, in comparison with blocks. When working with rolled materials, you can cut off the required amount of the insulator. Tile do one size, so during the installation of the crates take into account the size of pieces.

Wooden wall insulation is also conducted by foam or polystyrene foam.

Polystyrene foam Popular due to its low cost. In addition, it just works with him and it is well kept warm. It is a good soundproofer. The disadvantage is considered to be released by material toxic substances during combustion.

Preparatory work

How to properly insulate the walls of the wooden house from the inside, largely depends on the correctly selected materials. If this question is resolved, then you can go to preparatory workwhich are concluded in the preparation of the surface and the manufacture of the crate.

For reference! When preparing the surface, you need to close the slots that could appear between bars or logs. For this, you will need additional materials: panel, felt or mounting foam.

Wooden bars are most often used as a crate. Less often assemble a metal crate. Metal for the crate must be covered with anti-corrosion composition.

Preparation of wooden surfaces

For high-quality drawing of the insulator, the surface is prepared to the coating insulation. In the gaps are placed password / felt / foam. After the slot is completely closed, the foam dried and removed its surplus, put a putty on the wall. The putty layer is thoroughly align. Wood is covered with special composition that protects against mold, fungus. All wooden surfaces before installing the insulation are treated with fire makeup.

On our site you can familiarize yourself with the most popular projects of wooden houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of the houses "Low-rise Country".

Basalt Wool insulation technology

After the walls (ceiling) dried after processing, start assembling insulation.

Stages of work when insulation of walls basalt Vata. :

    Determine extreme elements Chatters. They are carefully tested with the help of a level and a plumb, since further installation on the installation depends on their position.

    Fix The first vertical bar of screws and dowels.

    At a distance of 1 m, the following is fixed vertical strips And so on, while the entire surface is covered with a crate. For the installation of rolled wool, the installation of the crate at this stage ends.

    If there is on the wall windows or doorways, on their perimeter, install individual bars.

    For installation scous insulator Make the grid of the crate with horizontal elements. Horizontal strips are stipulated on the resulting vertical mesh at an equal distance. The distances between the bars must correspond to the dimensions of the insulation. It turned out a grid for the installation of heat insulation.

    In the cavity between fixed planks are placed watu.. When installing the heat insulator, the walls or other means for fixing are not used. If the fence is done correctly, then the wool will fit tightly to the surface, but at the same time you need to remember the ventilation gap. If the ceiling is insulated, then the insulation will have to fasten.

Any wool has a porous structure, so it accumulates moisture. Therefore, when insulating a wooden house, cotton must be covered with vapor insulation. When installing rolled material Cut the required length and secure on the wall. Before starting work, it should be calculated how much material is necessary for the insulation of a wooden house. Add 10% to the resulting number.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation service. Directly to communicate with representatives, you can visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-rise country".

Installation of foaming

Polyfoam is rarely used as insulation. Despite the fact that the material has low thermal conductivity and it retains warmly with a small thickness, it is considered an economy option.

Video Description

Some reflections on the use of foam and expanded polystyrene Look in the video:

In particular, there are many complaints about the release of toxins during combustion, plus, it is believed that the foam and at ordinary temperature evaporates the harmful substances into the air.

The material does not miss the pairs and indoors without good ventilation, moisture will constantly accumulate.

It is possible to attribute relatively easy installation to the pluses of the material, which means that the workers do not need high qualifications, and the cost of work will be lower.

Polyfoam is produced in plates of various sizes and thickness

Stages of installation of foam:

    On the pre-prepared surface install the crate With a step of slats, equal to the size of plate plates. Start installation from bearing walls.

    Between Brucki foam placing With the preservation of the ventilation gap.

    Top on the insulation fix membrane film. If for other insulators it is possible to use other materials, for foam plastic choose a special film with membranes. It will save the normal microclimate indoors.

    Complete installation insulation finishing works.

Floor insulation

Concrete floor must be insulated. Wooden is covered with a heat insulator as desired, but after insulation, the room will be significantly warmer.

In wooden houses, the insulation is placed on a draft coating and over the purple floor.

As a paro insulation, a film with a membrane, polyethylene is used. The people are popular insulation using roofing. This material is known for a long time, it is cheap, well protects against moisture, durable.

Mineral wool is used as a heat insulation. It is cheap, easy to install, durable, has good heat and sound insulation properties. In addition, increasingly used relatively new Material - Polystyoltille who gradually displaces Wat from the building materials market.

Sequence of actions when installing insulation on the floor of a wooden house.

    Aligns The surface under the insulation.

    Filty waterproofer / Parosolytor, whose task is to prevent moisture to insulation, entering outside. In regions with wet soil, this stage should pay special attention.

    Install lagi. The thickness of the lag should be at least 5 cm. An indentation of the wall is 30 cm. The distance between the bars of 50 cm.

    Between lags laid insulation. The presence of voids between individual slices of thermal insulator is not allowed.

    On top of the insulation fill vapor insulation film.

    After the formation of all layers laid finishing floor.

Video Description

How is the installation of the insulation on the walls of the wooden house from the inside, look in the video:

Parosolation

If there is a need to install vaporizolation, it is better to use a special film with a membrane.

It will allow the walls to pass the air normally, and after installation there will not accumulate condensate inside the "cake". To install vaporizolation on the insulation, the film or polyethylene is applied. At the edges make the allowance.

Elimination of heat loss

The weakest places from the point of view of the penetration of the cold - the place of the joints. There should be no gaps between individual slices of the insulation. The insulation material is placed tightly to the crate. For floor insulation an important point It is connections with walls. In these places, the insulation laying is carried out with a small adhesive on the walls and is fixed.

When overlapping vaporizolation monitoring that each layer of material is superimposed on the previous one with a small overlap.

Insulating material is applied directly between wooden bars Before insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside. For this, long-known materials are used - the pass, linen rope, flanite. It is possible to fill the joints of BRUSEV to fill with modern sealants - latex, acrylic, rubber.

Even, to reduce heat loss in a wooden house, use the "Warm Seam" method.

Conclusion

Despite the fact that it was previously believed that the Wooden House would be insulated solely outside, modern materials allow you to warm up the warming of the building from the inside. With this insulation, the outdoor design is not disturbed and it will not be necessary to carry out work at the height if the house is two-storey or with an attic. The main thing is to choose the right material for insulation and entrust work to professionals who know all additional nuances. For example, they can calculate where the dew point will be located after the insulation so that the condensate is not formed directly inside the wall.

The tree is a traditional material for building houses. It is intuitive that than more massive and thicker the wall, especially low temperatures It can withstand. Today it is not always possible to pick up construction material Necessary sizes. The output is the implementation of additional heat insulation of the walls.

Principles of insulation

The choice of how to insulate the wooden house is not really great. There are only two options: internal and outdoor. The best from a heat engineering point of view is the first option. Outdoor insulation does not allow to cool the material of the wall. As a result, the dew formation point is in the outer insulation layer.

Nevertheless, sometimes it is necessary to perform insulation of walls inside a wooden house. There may be several reasons for performing such works:

  • the desire to leave the external texture of wooden walls unchanged;
  • insufficient thickness of external insulation;
  • ability to conduct work without reference to weather conditions.

Tree, as the design material does not like excessive overvoltage. To ensure comfortable operating conditions, it is necessary to isolate the insulation from water vapor penetrating from the dwelling side.


Moisture, which, for one reason or another, inside the design should have a chance for evaporation into the environment. The vapor permeability of the wall "cake" should gradually decrease in the direction from the residential premises towards the external (outdoor) srub surface.

What needs to be taken into account

In fact, when the insulation is performed, it is impossible to meet two identical cases from the inside. To get the most effective result, it is necessary to make at least an approximate calculation before the start of work.


Must be taken into account:

  • climatic construction zone;
  • material and thickness of various wall layers;
  • the nature of living in the house;
  • temperature and humidity regimen indoors.

Thermal insulation materials used

The main characteristic of thermal insulation is the coefficient of thermal conductivity. No less important when making a decision on choosing a particular material will be a combustibility class and density.

Mineral wool

Non-combustible, fibrous material produced from silicon and basalt rock melts, slag remnants of metallurgical production and their mixtures. Produced in the form of rolls or mats of various density.


With thermal insulation of vertical surfaces, it is more convenient to work with separate plates. The optimal density in this case should be in the range from 40 to 60 m³ / kg.

When used, it is necessary to use hydro and vaporizolation. Waste wet contributes to a sharp decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Polyfoam and Epps

The structure of foamed insulation, to which the EPPS and foams are a large number of closed, filled with air cells. This structure allows you to abandon the need to use any additional protective layers. The difference between the EPPS compared to the foam is more dense and, accordingly, more resistant to the effects of moisture structure.


When organizing work, you should keep your choice on low-mullese stamps (G1 or g2). G4 is characterized by excretion when burning caustic black smoke and burning droplets and is not allowed for use in wooden houses.

Example of performance

For example, you can consider the sequence of work on the insulation of a wooden brusade house from the inside. Wall thickness 150 mm. As a heater, a mineral wool is used in Rockwill Plates Scandik Light Batts. Sizes 800 x 600 x 50.


Foamed insulation do not pass air. On the one hand, it is good - water vapors do not penetrate the walls. On the other hand, a closed thermos is obtained, the atmosphere of the wooden house is lost and the organization of forced ventilation is required. Parry permeability coefficients of mineral wool and wood are close enough. The whole design from the point of view of heat engineering will be relatively homogeneous.

The choice in favor of the material brand is primarily associated with its widespread, ease of operation and relatively low cost. An important factor is a compression packaging. It allows you to reduce the volume involved in transportation up to 70%.

Design calculation

Before proceeding with the work, you need to correctly calculate. It is necessary to determine the composition of the insulation, material and thicknesses of different layers. For these purposes, online services are very well thermal calculationthat exist on the Internet.

So, for wooden wall 150 mm thick internal insulation can have two options.

Option 1:

  • interior decoration;
  • air gap;
  • vaporizoation;
  • layer of insulation 5 cm;
  • vaporizoation;
  • air gap;
  • wall.

Option 2:

  • interior decoration;
  • air gap;
  • vaporizoation;
  • layer of insulation 5 cm;
  • wall.

Both variants work to the outdoor air temperature of -15С ° completely equally. Inside the room is supported by a comfortable thermal mode (+23 C °).

With further lowering of the temperature in the first version with two air gaps, condensate is not formed up to -20 s °. In the second, starting with -16 C ° point of dew shifts to the border of the Bar insulation.

Increasing the thickness of the insulation, as it is neither paradoxically worsen the situation. With a layer thickness of thermal insulation, 10 cm condensate will be formed already at -12 with °.

From the calculations it is clear that insulation from the inside with strong and long frosts is inefficient. However, the option with two air gaps has the right to exist in seasonal living in cold climatic zones and year-round in temperate zones with soft winters.

Ventilation product

Ventilation gap provides air circulation inside the wall. It allows you to remove some moisture (condensate formed in frosts).

Internal products are formed by packing on the surface of the wall of vertical plates with a thickness of 20 mm, and a width of about 40 mm. The mount is carried out by nails or self-drawing.


A vapor insulation membrane is installed on top of the installed rails. It is fixed with the help of a construction stapler. An important nuance is an orientation. The smooth side must be addressed to the insulation, roughing from him. This will allow you to leave water vapor from the volume of thermal insulation towards the air gap and will not let them back.

Framework and installation of thermal insulation

The main part of the insulation design is the framework for installation of insulation mats. For its manufacture, it is best to use brus with a cross section of 40 x 50 mm or 50 x 50 mm. Such a section will provide sufficient spatial rigidity.

The mounting of vertical racks is carried out to the floor and the ceiling with the help of fastening profiled plates and self-tapping screws. If necessary, it is possible to perform through large screws directly to the wall at home. For the convenience of subsequent work, the step of vertical racks must correspond to the dimensions of the insulation mats (800 or 600 mm).


For fixing mineral wool in the frame, some fasteners are required. The mats are installed tight, Muspar. It is very important to fully fill the entire space between the racks to eliminate the microconvection and the air bridges of the cold through the inner slits in the insulation layer.

Parosolation

Principles and techniques for installing the second vapor insulation layer are similar to the first. The diffusion membrane unfolds over the entire surface with a smooth side to the insulation and is attached to the stapler.


A solid barrier is created that protects the inner space of the frame with insulation from the penetration of water vapor from the room side.

Air gap

By analogy with the first air gap on the frame racks through the installed membrane, rails are stuffed. They serve to organize ventilation space and are the basis for fastening the finishing of the room.

Clean sheath

The finish finish may be the most diverse:


  • lining;
  • block house;
  • oSB plates or plasterboard sheets with subsequent plastered or wallpaper pasting.

The best option for preserving the flavor and the atmosphere of a wooden house is to imitation of a bar. If you do everything neatly, then a person who does not gues it for the presence of insulation behind the sheathing boards.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: Professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewage to electrician and finishing), installation of window structures. Hobbies: Watch Column "Specialization and Skills"

The insulation of a wooden house from the inside with their own hands is not a mandatory procedure: by and large, with high-quality external heat insulation you can do without it. On the other hand, we more often strive to preserve the appearance of the outer walls, isolated from the log and timber, because the thermal insulation contours of the will will have to be transferred inside the room.

The thermal insulation process itself is quite complicated and labor. That is why the work should be started with careful planning, since the time, and forces, and we need a lot of money.

Approach 1. Interventovation insulation

Konopka slot

Getting Started with the installation of thermal insulation contours, it is worth assessing the state of the walls themselves. As a rule, both in new homes, and in the facilities that have previously been exploited, the need for the sealing of interventical seams arises. It is precisely for these seams that a significant part of thermal flows, therefore, bump them, we will significantly raise the temperature in the room.

An additional plus is the absence of drafts, which also strongly reduce the level of comfort inside the house.

The simplest and therefore the most common method of sealing gaps between the crowns of a log or a bar - cavulus with various fibrous materials. Features of these materials I will describe in the table below:

Means for Konopkka Application in thermal insulation works
Jute The material comes in the form of a jute canvase or cords of different diameters, designed specifically for filling the gaps. The raw material has vegetable nature, with good moisture resistance, considerable strength and durability.

Joutow fiber hygroscopicity provides even efficient sealing of even enough large cavities between the crowns. It is necessary, however, to keep in mind that the jute cord is practically not expanding after a shot in the gap, because it is worth a pantry after the shrink shrinkage is completed.

Moss Raw material that is traditionally used for caulking wooden buildings. Provides significant hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation, but it is quite troublesome. In addition, find quality moss in large volumes is also a difficult task.
Ribbon insulation Linseed material on a linen or vatine basis, which is commonly used in a pantry under the trim. According to the strength and moisture resistance, the jute is inferior, but the price is somewhat less.

Most often, thermal insulation tapes are used for laying between the crowns directly when building a log house, but they can be used for additional sealing.

The coincolum process itself is not relieved. Below I will tell you how to pure the slots between the logs with your own hands:

  1. Gasons between the crowns purify from dust and garbage.
  2. If necessary (if signs of damage to fungi or bacteria are detected), we process the tree with antiseptic impregnation.
  3. In the gap lay material for sealing.
  4. We take rootpath - a metal or wooden blade - and with the help of a hammer or a queen score material in the gap.

  1. We repeat the operations until the clearance is filled, and the tool will not start spring and bounce from the material.
  2. After some time (we will give metime on a small shrinkage) carefully cut off the excess material.

As you can see, nothing is difficult, but I must immediately warn - it's not fast. Especially if the walls canopate big House by oneself.

Warm seam

Alternative to Konopathic is the technology of the so-called warm seam. At one time, choosing, the better to separate the wall, the sheath of which was not planned, I stopped at this option. The advantages of this technique can be considered not only the accurate appearance of the wall after processing (and though, the log house looks much more attractive), but also the preservation of vapor permeability, which is not always obtained by standard methods of insulation.

For the arrangement of the warm seam, it is necessary to acquire a durable sealing cord for the processing of all the crowns. Cords can be used different:

  • acrylic;
  • latex;
  • polyethylene;
  • butyl rubber;
  • linen;
  • jute, etc.

In addition, a sealant must be needed to fill the gap, to apply it more convenient with a special pistol.

The arrangement of warm seams inside with their own hands is performed according to such a scheme:

  1. All gaps between the crowns are neatly cleaned, and deep cracks in the logs are expanded to prevent distribution.
  2. Then in each cavity to a depth of 20-30 mm, a sealing cord is laid. Since elastic materials are used, the cord is fixed in the slot due to its own elasticity, without additional fixation.
  3. A sealant layer is applied over the cord, which fills the gap to the front surface of the wall. If necessary, the sealant is loaded with a latch dipped in water, and its excess is removed from the surface of wet rag.

After polymerization, the sealant with the cord is formed by a protective circuit, which effectively retains heat and prevents blowing, but it retains vapor permeability. Due to this, natural ventilation of the room and maintaining the optimal humidity regime are provided.

And cavropka, and the arrangement of a warm seam can be used even when the inner warming of the cut is not planned. At the same time, these techniques do not provide maximum energy saving, because if you really save on heating and ensure that winter in a wooden house will not be cold, then it is worth thinking about the installation of an additional thermal insulation circuit.

Approach 2. Frame heat insulation

Installation of the crate

In this section, I will tell you how to warm the wooden house from the inside. If you understand how the thermal insulation contour works, there should be no problems, but still before starting work it is worth examining the optimal algorithm.

We begin traditionally - with the preparation of the surface and installation of the frame for insulation:

  1. If the thermal insulation of the old house is performed, then the walls need to be cleaned from the residues of the finish. Both wallpapers and dilapidated lining under the layer of the insulation will not retain us a single unnecessary degree, but will serve as an excellent substrate for the development of bacteria and fungi.
  2. After that, we carry out the impregnation of the walls by antiseptic deep penetration. Why is it: under the trimming it will be warm and relatively humid, because if we do not take care of the complex biosis, then the appearance of fungi will be a matter of time. And very short time.

Since we took up the impregnation of the walls, then at the same time you can treat them with antipirens. Of course, the decline in flammability of wood will not protect us from the fire by 100%, but this is just the situation when the slowdown of burning for several minutes can become decisive.

  1. The next stage is the installation of the membrane. Its main task is to protect the heat-insulating material from moisturizing when contacting wood. An important aspect: It is impossible to use polyethylene here, since it completely blocks the outlet of the water vapor through the wall outside, so either we take a diffuse membrane with a good indicator of vapor permeability, or refuse this layer at all and hope that we sealed the gaps between the crowns well.

  1. Next - the doom. It can be done from a metal profile, but I prefer to work with a tree. Singing from 30x30 to 50x50 mm is installed either directly on the wall, or on steel brackets, forming a gap, the thickness of which corresponds to the thickness of the insulation.
  2. Under the base of each metal bracket, it is worth putting either a piece of rubberoid, or a paronite gasket - to avoid the formation of the cold bridge.

Installation of insulation and sheathing

The next stage is the installation of thermal insulation material. Many in order to save ways are used by foam, but it seems to me that the heater is not worth it. Yes, a significant part of the heat with this material with this material, but due to the low (almost zero) vapor permeability, natural ventilation of the walls will break. As a result, humidity will increase in the room, and in order to normalize it, we will have to more often air the rooms, losing the stored heat.

Therefore, before heating the wooden house with their own hands from the inside, I looked at two options - mineral wool and an emotor (loose cellulose insulation). He stopped on a mineral wool, which mounted in this way:

  1. Material installed in the cells of the crate. I initially did the frame for the insulation in accordance with the size of mineral wool slabs, and therefore spending time and strength on trimming almost did not have to.

  1. On top of the mineral wool layer fixed a vaporizolation membrane. Here you can use parchment, and polyethylene, but membrane materials are more likely.
  2. Then I installed a counterclaim from the 20x40 mm rails. The bars of the counter parametes attached to the carrier elements of the frame with such a calculation so that the air clearance was 30 to 50 mm for ventilation between the insulation and the trim for ventilation.

  1. In the ventilation gap, hidden wiring was laid. In this case, all the wires were packed in a metalwall with a wall thickness completely excluding exhaust.

You should not use standard plastic corrugation - the risk of fire is too large.

  1. As a trim, I used pine, but a blockolar can also be applied, and fivebrus, and even MDF-based materials.
  2. In principle, the instruction allows you to cover the insulated log wall with plasterboard with a subsequent putty and trim, but I don't like this option. And the truth, why bother with the construction of a wooden house, so that after all the work, get the result, which can be reproduced in a typical panel high-rise building?

Eco-out is a good alternative to the insulation of mineral fiber, but I was stopped by the fact that it is necessary to involve specialists with complex equipment to carry out thermal insulation work. However, for money would be approximately the same. So consider this option is definitely worth:

  1. For insulation, an eco-art frame is wearing a plywood thickness of about 10 - 15 mm.
  2. In plywood, we leave holes for filling with thermal insulating material.

  1. The hose from the compressor with cellulose fiber is started into the hole in the trim, after which the insulation under pressure enters the closed cavity.
  2. Filling is carried out in layers in order to avoid the formation of air pockets that reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

Underground space as a separate area

The internal thermal insulation of the wooden house includes the insulation of the underground space. On the question of whether it is possible to insulate the floor, I would give a positive answer only in one case: if there is a basement with high-quality thermal insulation from below. In all other cases, and especially if the floor is laid on the soil, no addition to the contour.

The total algorithm is as follows:

  1. The soil under the floor is carefully compacting, after which we fall asleep the gravel layer or the sandy-gravel mixture with a thickness of up to 30 cm.
  2. On top of the gravel form a subtype of a clay: the thicker layer, the better.

  1. Instead of claymps, you can use slab heat insulation materials - polystyrene foam or mineral wool. To lay them from below to lags, a firmware with a plywood layer, where we have a heater.
  2. On top of the insulated layer, we laid waterproofing material: foil film, pergamine, paronite, etc. Waterproofing should cover all lags, leaving only 5-10 cm free from each edge to exit wet moisture.

  1. Top plays black flooring from boards or thick plywood. Between the filling and insulation, the air clearance for natural ventilation should also remain.

Budding reference materials

As you see from the description, the project we will have quite large-scale. That is why it is worth it to him with full responsibility, and most importantly - to make a sufficiently detailed budget.

This will help you with reference materials shown in Table:

Material unit of measurement Average cost, rubles
Mineral Wool ISOVER 1200x600x100 mm packaging 4 pcs. 1400 -1700
Insulation Rockwool 800x600x50 mm packaging 4 pcs. 650 — 800
Jute sealant 10 cm m. Pog. 8 — 10
Cord butyl rubber 8 mm m. Pog. 12 -16
Sealant for warm seam 3 kg 1400 -1600
Moss for Konopkka bag 10 kg 300 — 450
Windproof Membrane for Rockwool walls 70 m2. 1500 — 1700
Film vaporizolation 70 m2. 670 — 750
Bituminous mastic 20 kg 350 — 500
Universal antiseptic 5 L. 450 — 600
Firemaster Firemaster CSD 10 L. 550 — 600
Pinotex imprara impregnation 10 L. 4800 -5200
PSB foam-from 25, 1000x1000x50 mm sheet 170 – 220
Polystyrene foam sheet, 1250х600х50 mm sheet 180 – 220
Bar wooden for frame, 6 m pC. 90 – 180
Larch block house, 22x90 mm 1 m2. 650 — 1200
Lining for walls 1 m2. 250 – 400
Plasterboard moisture resistant sheet 300 — 450

Conclusion

Choose than to insulate the wooden house from the inside, is quite simple - for this purpose you can use not so many materials. It is much more difficult to correctly mount thermal insulation contours, and here you will be helped by the top tips, as well as informative videos in this article. At the same time, you, of course, can contact me with any questions: In the comments to the article, I will try as much as possible and reasoned to answer them.

September 7, 2016.

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