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The microclimate in the house is not just convenient, but also useful for your health - you can maintain different temperatures. But the installation of Split system is interested in many hands - cheaper to make mounting yourself, rather than invite the masters, although it is not always right. First of all, experts will make installation according to the instructions, but if you are confident, you can do it yourself.
Split system before installation
For a start, let's determine what the system is split, so as not to be confused in definitions - for some reason it is distinguished from the usual air conditioner, and it is correct. There are several types of SLE:
SLE consists of two parts - this is a compressor, which is usually put on the street under the window and inner blockthat serves cold air into the room. The compressor is Freon, which is this air and cools - this air comes from the street ( supply system). In addition to cooling in the inner block there is a solenoid, which can also bent of hot air.
Outdoor block is attached on the brackets
The outer block is located in the open space - the facade of the house, an open balcony, a roof. In office buildings outdoor block Can fasten on ladder march, in the lobby or in the corridor. These two blocks are interconnected by a tube for freon, as well as a tube for the flow of condensate. There is also a compressor, a four-way valve, a receiver, a fan and a winter collector control system, which is driven by a condenser electric motor. The four-way valve is connected from the inner block through power cableRunning from the block in the apartment. The compressor is also located on the outer block, which removes noise indoors. The inner block is slightly noise - it is 24-25 dB and it interferes with some people.
Block in the apartment, fixed to the wall
The internal unit can be located in any part of the room - the ceiling, walls, the floor (it depends on the type of SC). The system is controlled by remote (remote) is attached. Modern air conditioners are equipped with a filter for cleaning air from smoke and / or dust. Heating and cooling the room varies in the range from 10 to 30⁰c. There is information on the remote display that you can adjust the system in the right mode - this air temperature, three degrees of injection force and turbo. For domestic use wall-mounted options, and outdoor and ceiling in offices, enterprises, public areas.
The electronics of this block manages all the parameters:
Modern air conditioners can warm the air that enters the room. This occurs when switching a four-way valve, which changes the direction of air supply. It is controlled by a solenoid at a voltage of 220 V, which comes from the inside. With the heating function on the outer block, it is formed to be removed. It should not be heated by the House of SD with a negative temperature on the street - this can lead to frost and defrost, which is equivalent to breakage. It is better to use heating at temperatures above 0⁰С.
In SLE, there is a winter kit that allows air conditioning air in rooms closed typewhere there are intensive heat generation - server, shops and the like. During the discharge of cold air, the block on the street is heated, so its freezing is impossible. This kit includes a fan controller - it turns it on in a condenser mode when heated, and also heats the flow of the condensate flow tube.
For Freon R10A there is a critical heat point - this is 72⁰c, therefore, the maximum temperature on the street should be no more than 45-50⁰c. For Freon R22, the maximum temperature of the block 96⁰c, therefore, the permissible ambient temperature is 65-70⁰c - this allows you to install such aggregates in hot shops, in attics and in garages. Such high temperatures May be on metal attics, in maafach and other metal rooms.
When the temperature on the street is very high, the unit works with pressure and freon drops more. This factor causes more intensively to work the compressor and pump the maximum amount of freon, which leads to its switching to electronics. Conventional SLE is designed for a temperature not higher than 40⁰c. If the air conditioner in the house or apartment is located on the sunny side, it is recommended when installing split systems with your own hands on top of attaching a visor that will protect the unit from the Sun.
For non-standard modes of operation, the capacity of the capillary channel is reduced, and this provides a significant pressure drop at the inlet and output with a smaller number of pumped freon. Since gas in the system is less, it is not a liquid on the capillary channel, but gas with liquid - it turns out that the circulation is significantly reduced and the air conditioner retains its ability to work in non-standard conditions. With normal temperature conditions Such differentials are harmful to the air conditioner, and it quickly fails.
Multi-split system
If the SLE is equipped with several blocks, then this will already be a multi system - it implies one block outdoors and several blocks in the building. Such equipment is very convenient for offices, shops or a large residential building. It is noteworthy that in such a situation the outer block can be combined with several distinctive systems, n-floor, not the wall and on the ceiling. Of course, such aggregates are more expensive - there is an additional controller to control required modes and compressors with fans.
Such systems are with one or several compressors. In the case of one compressor, the internal SLE unit transmits information to the external part of the unit, which determines the operation mode of the compressor. In systems, several compressors usually happen two or three blocks. In such a situation, a separate compressor is installed on each block, a separate four-way valve and a separate capillary tube. The outdoor unit compressor fixes the signals of all internal blocks and sets the fan and compressor. Such air conditioners are both inverter and not inverter.
Oh condensate, both internal and the outer block for two or three years is clogged, so they need to be cleaned - inside this is done using a hot steam, and they wash the outside. Thus, the fungal mold is removed along with dust. Without cleaning the unit, its efficiency can be reduced twice, and sometimes even more. Especially a lot of dust accumulates at the external block and for cars and trees. Filters that are above, helping little and more serve for advertising than for cleaning.
Video: Mounting work
To install split systems with your own hands, in fact, easy and you can see the video process, but you should consider several factors:
There are two separate blocks: evaporative (in the apartment) and compressor condensation (outdoor). Although modern aggregates work not only on air cooling, but also on its heating, it turns out that freon condenses in the inner part of the unit, and evaporation occurs in the outer, therefore they are called internal and external.
Installation of air conditioner is better to spend during repair work in the house
Installation work is most conveniently carried out during repairs in the apartment, as it will have to drill holes in the wall, and this is a lot of dust. To install the unit you will need such tools like:
Bracket on the street is attached to anchor dowels
The most difficult to fix the brackets on the wall from the outside of the house - usually make it below the windows to have access to the external block. Bashed with anchor plastic dowels Ø 14-16 mm - two pieces for each bracket. Some are mistaken and buy metal molly, but there is a dowel of an umbrella type and in a solid wall it will not be kept. This installation can be made from a telescopic tower, but it will cost it expensive, so it's easier to flow through the window and drill holes, only you first need to put a pencil label. So that the hole does not move, first drill the thin drill Ø 5-6 mm, and then take Ø 14-16 mm
The street unit must be below the internal
As a rule, it is not recommended to install an outdoor unit independently - it is not only dangerous for health, but also for life.
But if you have a construction experience in high-altitude work, then you can mount. You can, of course, install it on the balcony or loggia, if they are not glazed - if the block is indoors, it will overheat. Most importantly, it is good to fasten the brackets, but if you are afraid of height, then it is better not to be taken for such work, but to invite a specialist - they have experience at height, so it is better to pay, but not risking.
But first you need to determine the place where the inner block will be located, then to install the outer outdoor relative to it. It is most convenient when they are nearby - you don't have to add copper tubes - they are expensive. Then the cutter make a hole in the wall, but if the walls are concrete, then the hole is best to pierce the chisel, so as not to break the crown on the wire.
Installation of the mounting plate for the indoor unit
The mounting bar for fastening the air conditioner should be inserted strictly by level and secure it with plastic dowels. Here the anchors are no longer needed - it is possible to do with a dowel Ø 6 mm and scores with a length of 90 mm. I was not mistaken - it is 6-mm dowels that are needed for fastening so that the screw did not break from the wall. If the walls are soft, then you can drive two screws in one dowel - so much stronger. Sculpting, of course, tweet two screws will be difficult, so it is better to use a screwdriver or an electric drill.
Build pipelines
The tubes cut with meter snuff so that there are reserves for bends. Bending the phone should be very careful so that it does not cracked anywhere. Although wrinkles should not be allowed - such deformation will prevent the refrigerant flow, and this in turn will cause electricity overrun. The best thermal insulation, it is a pipe made of foamed polyurethane - it will last for a very long time, but the foam will not die even one season. The flanges are put on the ends and only after that make the ruin. The thread on the flanges should be rotated to the end of the tube to fasten them to the fitters. New air conditioners are noctors of different diameters, so it will be impossible to confuse the ends. But in the passport there is instructions on the assembly, so you can constantly spot.
For drainage it is best to use a metal-plastic Ø 16 mm, since the corrugated plastic quickly crumbles under the influence of atmospheric precipitation and temperature drops. If the drainage is not provided for drainage, you can connect to a heat shrinkage, heated by a soldering iron or on an open fire - matches or lighter.
In order to combine the internal and outer blocks use a stranded cable with a cross section of a non-1,5 mm - there are terminals with names. The names of the terminals may not coincide, and then they will have to deal with the instructions that are in the passport. The wire is also sealed into the pipe from the foamed polyurethane, and then all communications can be wrapped with scotch. This pipe is focused on a 50mm hole, which is made in advance in the wall.
To test the sealing, distilled water heated to evaporation and with a solution of economic soap (it can be grain). To continue, they remove the nipple from the release and pump water from the pump - if bubbles appear on the thread, the nut is slightly tightened. After completion, the soap is wiping with a wet cloth or sponge. Nipples put in place and the vacuum pump roll off the air, which removes dust and moisture. It is necessary to do for a long 40-60 minutes - the moisture will be removed along with the air. The system is pumped by freon from the cylinder through the pressure gauge - the required pressure is indicated in the passport.
Video: Installation work on the installation of the split system
Now it remains only to test the unit - this can be done from the remote control or the start button on the internal block. If testing does not start, you will have to call a specialist, since warranties will not be valid. When starting the test, blinds should open and go cold air. Blinds are adjustable to the desired position from the remote control.
If something does not work with the installation of the split system with your own hands, and this is usually an outdoor unit, you will have to call the wizard or hire a telescopic tower. But it concerns multi-storey buildings - On the first floors and in the private sector, problems usually do not occur.
Controlling the microclimate of the personal space, we create the conditions that are optimal for recreation, work, classes. Installation of the Split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and moisture simple way. Agree, B. summer period There are a lot of days in need of regulation of climatic parameters.
After reading the article proposed by us, you will learn all the details and subtlety work on the installation of air-conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematic information is useful as independent home crafts and customers of installers services to verify proper execution.
We described in detail the installation process, lists the nuances of the location and fixing blocks. Listed materials required for installation and connection of aggregates. A valuable addition to the text that facilitates the perception of information is photos and video applications.
Studying information on how to properly install the system split in a private house or apartment, it is initially necessary to choose the location of its parts.
To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of the distribution of cold / hot air flow in the room, given the basic technical requirements specified by the equipment manufacturer in the instructions.
The most common areas of the location of the inner block split system are over the bed / sofa. Outdoor - usually put out on the street and install on the site near the window or on balcony plates
There are certain rules that must be taken into account when choosing a block placement point:
For the outer part of the split system, the location is chosen on the basis of the bearing abilities of the walls. It is possible to mount near the window, on the plates, enclosing the loggia, or on the wall next to the balcony.
For those who live on the lower floors, the unit installation is carried out above the window - as far as possible from passersby.
Based technical requirements To the wall of the ventfassada used as a platform for fixing the outer block of the split system - the possible load capacity must be 2.5 times more than the mass of the installation unit
For a multi-storey building, especially if the apartment is on the top floor, you will need to attract high-altitude specialists or determine the point of installation in the marginal proximity to the window, which will provide easy access when installing.
Often the choice of equipment accommodation is regulated by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on model Row and characteristics.
Sometimes companies do not indicate the minimum contour length between the two units, so the installation can be performed arbitrarily.
The minimum distance between the blocks of the split system of the company Daikin 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic - up to 3 m. However, if the blocks are located in the meter from each other, the length of the track should be at least 5 m (its excess is folded into the ring and hide Behind the block)
It is a little easy to deal with the maximum distance between the two aggregates. The standard indicator is 5 m. It is possible to increase the length of the track, but in this case it is necessary to count on additional costs due to the need to refuel by Freon.
The solution to engage in the installation of the split system independently comes, as a rule, after finding out the rates from specialists. Incredibly high amounts for performing work, occupying 3 hours, are argued by the presence of expensive tools and its wear during operation. This is exactly what is the main share of payment for the service of the Master.
If the rates from the split-systems installers are too large, it is worth installing own hands, thoroughly studying the technology of this type of work
If you see the recommendations of the equipment manufacturers, then often in the instructions it is indicated that preparatory work You can make on your own, but for the installation of pipelines, connecting to the electrical network, the vacuum process is desirable to invite specialists with appropriate tools.
Perform self installation Cooling installation can be, because most of tools are in a suitcase homemade Masters. An exception can be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy it - to make a similar unit will be able to be made from old parts.
Some brigades of the masters do not even use this equipment when laying the route up to 6 m long.
If independent installation The air conditioner could not find a vacuum pump, alternative option can serve as a powerful compressor from the old refrigerator or aquarium supercharger
In the process of installation, an important aspect is the observance of the horizontal location of block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check in a building level.
If there is no tool in stock, you can rent it in a construction store.
In advance, it will be necessary to prepare the following equipment:
Some believe that the use of rimera does not make sense, especially if the new and does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.
Only after the manipulation produced by the fake the edge of the collapsed tube will be able to press the nut with the nut as close as possible, and accordingly, freon leakage is unlikely.
The operation of the device for the collapse of copper pipes is performed by deformation by the tube along the selected template, as a result of which the cone is formed. At the same time, the initial wall thickness and a round cross section remains
According to technical Regulations Installation, it is necessary to have a vacuum pump - the sealing of the air conditioning system is performed by this equipment. After filling the route by the refrigerant, the process of evacuation is carried out.
Components will need quite a lot, but they are all easily accessible in any profile store. Do not forget that the materials must be as high quality and sewer exclusively for the device functionally directed to the cold.
You must purchase a wire for powering and connecting blocks. In the passport or in the installation instructions, you always indicate the necessary parameters.
Standard is a four-core power cable with a cross-section area of \u200b\u200b2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. Length is selected based on the distance of the track, taking into account the small stock.
You will also need to prepare a thick-walled seamless type of soft copper, intended for cooling devices. Pipes are selected smaller and greater diameters. More specific characteristics are listed in the user manual.
The length is equal to the length of the track plus an additional stock to 30 cm. In the process of transporting the tubes, their edges must be muffled to cover from sedimentation of dust inside the product.
Pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system, their soft copper alloy is well separated and ensures due tightness
For the insulation of pipes, the insulation of foamed rubber is used. Selling it with segments of 2 m. To carry out measures on thermal insulation, the length is required, equal to the length of the track. Synthetic insulation is used on two diameters of pipes.
As a drainage tube, experts recommend installing hose corrugation, equipped inside a plastic spiral. You can also take advantage of an alternative part - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the route with a surcharge of 80 cm.
And you will also need two bracket L-shaped type to fix the block outside. Suitable size The parts are determined by its dimensions, and the reserve on the supporting load should exceed its weight 5 times. Such an increase in the maximum allowable voltage of the part is required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.
Buying these components better in the company engaged in the sale of spare parts for household split systems.
After purchasing a bracket for fastening the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, it is impossible to do additional holes in it, because This significantly reduces the safety margin of the part
As the details of the mount apply: anchor, dowel and bolts. Their number, view and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and the mounting plate intended for the internal unit.
It is important and type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be mounted. For camouflage of the laid communication line, a plastic box of standard dimensions of 60 * 80 cm will be required.
Alone to establish the air conditioning system is quite real task, however there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To explore all the requirements, it is originally necessary to read the instructions for the acquired equipment model.
The first is the installation internal block. Deciding with the place of its location, the wall markup on the mounting card is made on the wall. After driving the backlash, plastic plugs are inserted for dowels, the map is hung and fixed with dowels.
The most thorough attachment should be made at the bottom of the plate, because In this area there are latches holding a block
After installing the cassette, with building level The shutter speed of the strict horizontal placement of the future block is measured. With any inconsistency, it will be necessary to remake all the work done.
At this stage, preparatory work is coming under the laying of the tracks. First calculated the lines of its location. Then the hole is drilled in the wall of the facade, given the desired slope in the amount of more than 1/100.
Also, the hole is drilled with a slope with a diameter of 5 cm, and the angle of inclination can be increased, in comparison with the track. So, the condensate formed will be better to leave the system.
When you select the installation scheme of the spin to back blocks, you need to check the hole intended for the power cable. To do this, you must verify the location of the power ports on the units.
And now it is a queue of installation of the outdoor unit. If we are talking about multi-storey houseThis requires special equipment for high-rise works.
As in the first case, the strict horizontal block should be withstanding, so at the markup stage also use the level.
When placing an outdoor unit, it is necessary to take into account the limit relating to its slope - the maximum allowable angle of the slope is 45 °
At the time of installation of the attachments, each available hole must be filled with anchor bolts (standard diameter 10 * 100 mm), regardless of their quantity. After, the outer block is set and is also fixed by fasteners.
With the help of electrical pipes and two copper tubes, the exterior and internal blocks are connected. Additionally through the wall will be laid drainage systemresponsible for eliminating condensate. These items must be properly pick up, connect, put and secure.
First, the copper tubes should be prepared, cutting off the desired length using the pipeline and processes the edge of the rimem from burrs and dents after the circumcision procedure.
It is not recommended to use other tools, such as a file. After its use, the tube inside the tube is inserted, which will circulate through the system and eventually lead to the failure of the compressor.
To spend copper tubes through the wall, their edges need to be insulated with a plug, to protect against dust
The thermal insulation of the tubes is carried out by dressed on them polyurethane foam hoses. It is impossible to choose the foam rubber as a seal - it has a short operational period. After performing measures for thermal insulation, all the docking sections of the material are tightly sampled with metallized tape.
Now the queue has come to lay drainage and cable. For each wire you need to wear a special tip. They are installed on cleared from insulating material Conductors and crimping forceps.
The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the scheme shown in the instrument manual.
On both blocks on the site, located slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate designed to connect copper pipes. Under it placed electrical discs for cable
Drainage tube Connects to a special output on the indoor unit and is displayed through the hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.
According to the rules, its laying is carried out under the tilt to the output output. Requires the clamps through each meter of length to eliminate the savings to prevent condensate accumulation.
Conducted through the wall of communication is connected to the corresponding ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. The laying of copper pipes is made by a loop to capture the oil, which is contained in a small amount in Freon.
Drainage can be removed in two ways: to withdraw it into the sewer or to the street. The first method is technically correct, however, due to the complexity of the playback, it was not widely distributed.
When laying a drainage tube, it is better to avoid sharp turns, no savings are also allowed - condensate will accumulate in these areas
At the bottom of the inner block of the system there is a tube with a tip of plastic. It dresses the hose corrugation and is dragged in the junction of the clamp.
For the external part of the device, a similar procedure is performed, but many of it ignore it. If the polymer pipe is used instead of the hose, the corresponding adapter is selected. With it, connect the block output and the tube.
To connect the copper tubes, you need to initially lay on the wall, with the help of pipe bending. If this tool is not available, we suggest familiarizing yourself with the article, where it is described in detail how to bend the pipe without special equipment. Read more - read.
Tubes need to give the necessary slope without beggars and a sharp chalk. First of all, they are connected to the indoor unit. For this, nuts are weakened on the respective ports.
When tying, the characteristic sound of the hissing of the exit nitrogen will be heard. It is injected at the time of production, to eliminate the oxidation of parts. After its descent, it is necessary to remove the plugs and unscrew the nut. Next, the rolling procedure is performed.
In the process of fragant, the pipe is held by hole down in order to avoid chips from entering the inside system
The edges of the pipes on a plot of 5 cm are aligned. Then conduct the collapse to ensure the connection of the input and output of the blocks. So it turns out a closed circulation system. The correctness of the installation plays an important role in gaining the properties of maximum tightness, during the movement of Freon.
The collapsed edge of the pipe is connected to the necessary output and fixed with a nut. It is forbidden to use any additional devices - sealants, gaskets, etc. Applied copper tubes provide the necessary sealing.
Connecting copper tubes, it is necessary to make an effort in 60 kg, only then copper monolithically adams the fitting, and the contact will be sealed
Similar actions are done with all four ports. After the connection, the last step of installation of the air conditioning system is to eliminate air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that could accumulate during the installation process.
During the installation work in the air conditioner tubes, air falls and if it is not removed, it will be in the air conditioning system. The result becomes a reinforced load on the compressor, respectively, its quick heating.
Also, water particles negatively affect all the details. The fraon contains the proportion of lubricating oil, its hygroscopic consistency in contact with water becomes less efficient. As a result, wear components will accelerate.
For air removal, two methods can be used: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon fluid, which descends from the block located outside. In the manufacture of an outdoor unit, manufacturers with a small snuff.
The PSHICE method is repeated several times, with the second attempt to be done with the top valve. If the length of the track is 2-3 m - the procedure is carried out 3 times, at four-meter - 2 times
An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump can be served the release of excess freon from the exterior unit. For this on its valves unscrew the plugs. It is necessary to work with the lower port of the larger diameter. Under its lid there is a hex connector. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.
The appropriate key is made of the valve 90 ° and return it to the previous position. Thus, the system includes a small amount of freon and enhanced pressure. Secondly pressing the finger on the spool, located on the same port, produce excess freon and gases from the system.
After completely removal of air, the output of the spool is twisted with a plug, and the valves are fully open and the freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the compounds, they are deprived by soap foam.
It is worth remembering that when independent, minor factors do not exist. And all that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling of pipes without stripping a border, or a not enough compound - as a result, leads to rapid wear of the component coolant. Therefore, during the installation process you need to show the limit accuracy to all parts.
If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the installation of split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments, ask questions at the block below.
What you need to know about the installation of the split system
Problem: The main complexity that the buyer of the Split system faces is the problem right mounting. Installation by 90% defines the quality and service life of the air conditioner. If errors are made when installed, then fix them is very difficult.
Solution: Installation should carry out specialists who have a license to install air conditioners, with the instructions and using special equipment. After mounting in the room there should be no debris nor dust or boxes. The word "air conditioning" worried only in our country. This is actually a piece of phrase AIR-Condition, which translated from English means "air condition". The air conditioner is used to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. Vinting air, air conditioning cleans it, passing the air flow through special filters.
Today we will talk about installing more modern view Air conditioning systems - about split system. What are the advantages of the split system before "ordinary" air conditioning? Split system does not light up natural light as "Rockan", which is embedded in window Rama. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the system of general air conditioning at home, if there is something (this is when one hefty block costs somewhere in the basement and drives the air throughout the house). And differs from the "ordinary" air conditioner in what consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two internal blocks, then this is already called the "multisplit system".
But let's agree: for simplicity, I will talk about a split system, calling it more familiar to our ear, the word "air conditioning" for our ear.
Communication (in the Stroker)
Drainage (in the Stroker)
Sewerage
Wiring - to the shield (in the stroke)
Hole in the wall, pierced with a slope of 1-3 °
The first stage of the installation of the split system: a separate wiring is carried out
To anyone, even a low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate wiring and put a separate automatic machine. Because old may not withstand the load and, God forbid, will light up. If a separate wiring for the air conditioner, installers will be put - the possibility of fire is reduced to almost zero.
Especially be alert if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, wiring, alas, is not designed for loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment. The installers remember the case when the owner of the apartment because of the air conditioner was forced to replace the entire wiring: the old simply could not stand and constantly knocked the plugs.
The second stage of the installation of the Split System: Installation of the Outdoor Block
For this, the installers drill holes for brackets, which then install the external unit.
If you put it on open balconyThere are no problems: they attached bolts, the breeze blows it - and order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air for work and it will soon break down). If you want to attach a block on the wall, then without solid brackets can not do. Moreover, they must withstand weight, several times higher than the weight of the block. In the high floors of "ousttern" mounted with, equipped with sliding staircase. Or cause climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such challenges are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes appliances are required in the form of a machine with a fire staircase, and a climber.
If you live on the upper floors, the outdoor unit can be put on the roof. But note that the difference between the inner and external blocks in height should not exceed 3-20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).
If your apartment is located on the first floor, I strongly recommend hanging the external unit above 1.8-2 meters above the ground and "hide" it into a cage. And then can and steal. On one of the firms we told the story. A man came and ordered only an external block. Managers were surprised: "Why don't you want the entire split system." - "Yes, I have an inside air conditioner, but the outer" box "was cut yesterday. On the first floor, under hung. " Regardless of the height, on which the external block is "applied", a metal visor should be made over it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in its path.
Generally installing an external block - a responsible business. If it is poorly fixed, he can fall and fall apart ... for someone. During the warranty period, the responsibility for the consequences of this is a firm that has established air conditioning. And after - you yourself will answer.
There are location limits for installing an external unit:
The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be durable (otherwise under the weight of the block it can collapse) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
It is impossible to carry the tube with the refrigerant (Freonon) several times on little plot and develop their connections (this will lead to refrigerant leakage). If the tubes twisted into the ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, the compressor will be more difficult to download freon.
The third stage of the split system installation: installation of the indoor unit
Air conditioning control panel
The installers are fixed with screws to the wall (if a block wall) or ceiling (if the ceiling unit) special brackets and blocks are installed on them. After that, it is necessary to check the strength of the fasteners (whether the design does not stick? When the air conditioner is turned on, does not vibrate?). Otherwise, sooner or later, the whole design can simply conjure you on the head.
But for the outdoor unit of special fasteners is not required. He, as they say, will stand on foot. " It is only necessary to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, consider the block to do not blow on the curtains or on the wall and stood away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, but after laying all communications, it is impossible to move it from place to place.
So, the internal unit cannot be installed:
... above the heat source (for example, over the battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work on cooling "before the loss of the pulse" and will very quickly fail. Imagine that you opened the refrigerator door, and it will cool not only the camera, but also the whole room. He "earned" and fails by the end of the day. The same happens with air conditioning. In addition, from the heat emanating from the room battery, the plastic block of the block can be deformed.
... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly working (for example, drill, drilling machine). High-frequency oscillations can "knock down" chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
... directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger to constantly catch up or worse, getting sick with inflammation of the lungs.
... where the air circulation will be difficult, for example, behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which supports the specified temperature automatically, will fail. Cooled (or heated) Air conditioning flow from the air conditioner will reflect on the obstacle and returns back to the same temperature, with which "out". The air conditioner will solve that the work has been done, the desired climate is installed and turns off. This is how my friends happened. Their air conditioner is constantly "confused in the curtains" and disconnected, without having time to bring the room temperature to a given one. I had to call specialists and re-install the system.
... with a breakdown - then water (condensate) will flow from it to the floor, which, according to the installation rules, should be discharged by the drainage tube into a special tank (see our drainage certificate).
The fourth stage of the installation of the split system: the stroke of the walls or floor
In order to connect the electrical pipes and freon tubes between the air conditioner blocks, the installers pierce the gutter in the walls or on the ceiling (or as the installers say - you need to "stamp the highway"). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to "stamp", for example, not a wall, and the floor of the apartment.
Do not want to stroke? Then you can hide the wires into decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the box is cleaned under the plinth). But before this, the installers will have to connect two copper tubes (for refrigerant) and the "ends" of electrical wiring between the external and internal blocks. Make sure that the installers do it with the help of connecting fittings. And in the pre-punched hole in outdoor wall Passed "Waterproofing Glass" with a connecting hose. 
After that, they must carry out the so-called vacuuming of communications, and necessarily for 50 minutes (it is during this time "extra" air and moisture will be released from communications). This manipulation is done necessarily with the help of special equipment.
And keep in mind - for the drainage tube, as a rule, make a separate hidden highway (in the wall or under the floor).
Fifth stage of the split system installation: checking the system using a special program
At this stage, the installers must include a split system (air conditioning) by setting it on the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, it means that order. The work is almost completed. By the way, we advise you to independently carry out such an inspection of the system (using the same test program).
Sixth stage of the installation of the split system: garbage cleaning
Must warn: Laying the highway and other installation procedures are dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will come with special tools (including a metal detector for surveying walls for the presence of fittings and hidden communications).
In addition, installers must have a vacuum cleaner and other harvesting machines. With their help after the end of the work, they must independently remove all the garbage. If the installers are trying to dodge the "dirty" work, strictly demand - "cleaning the territory" is included in payment for the installation of the air conditioner. In addition, a solid company can conclude a contract for the prophylactic service of the split system. Then you do not have to risen your life, leaning around the belt from the window, clean the outer block with a vacuum cleaner or cause climbers for your money. At the conclusion of such a contract (the warranty repair is included in it), of course, you will have to pay an enynu amount, but believe me, it is worth it. By the way, I have a rush to report a pleasant detail: the company "Meteomarket" selling Japanese air conditioners Daikin (Daikin), after a three-year term of the contract for service freely replace your air conditioning for a new one. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit - you can not change it 20 years. The company guarantees it uninterrupted good work. By the way, in a deliberate building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners (Daikin) are still since the "corn general" Nikita Khrushchev and still work well.
The outer block must be cleaned regularly from dust and dirt. Especially the difficult period of the outdoor unit - the flowering time of poplars. Pooh instantly clogs filters, and air conditioning (if it is not cleaned immediately) breaks. Of course, you can clean the vacuum cleaner, if not afraid of height. But it is better not to risk and call the "service of rescue air conditioners" - that is, the maintenance company.
At temperatures below -15 ° C, air conditioning can refuse to work "on heat", and then you will need low-temperature equipment (thermal pump, compressor heater and even a heater of the drainage tube). By the way, in some models, these devices are already laid
It will be about an independent installation of split system with wall mounting of the indoor unit.
So, you first need to carry out separate wiring, even if the air conditioner you install, low power. Plus it is necessary to install a separate automatic in the shield. At this stage, I strongly recommend using the services of professional electricians.
The next install split the system itself, or rather start the installation of the outer block. To do this, first need to drill holes for the brackets on the wall of the house. Please note that when the external block is located on the wall, you should be reinsured and buy brackets designed for greater weight than the block.
Also, it should be remembered that when installing an external block, it is necessary to be particularly attentive with the refrigerant tubes - it is impossible to allow its infrequent, and the twist in the ring, the diameter of which is less than 10 cm will lead to bad frayon pumping.
Now we install the internal block of the split system - the mounted or ceiling brackets themselves (depending on the type of block). Follow when installing the rules:
it is strictly forbidden to establish the internal block of split system over heat sources (for example, above the radiator)
Installing a block near various items that can become an obstacle to the air flow path, violating it recycling; The fact is that the air conditioner will receive unreliable information about the air temperature in the room and will start working in another, rather than programmed
Installation of split systems near sources of electromagnetic oscillations can lead to a failure in the air conditioner itself
Well, and last - I think that this is not new, but you should not install the inner block in the immediate vicinity of the desktop, beds and rest areas - this can contribute to the supercooling of the body, which will lead you to the evercent state.
The final stage is testing installed air conditioning Using the test program (since we set the split system yourself, then the check will have to be carried out independently).
So, and now pure household tips how to install split system itself:
if your dwelling is located on the first floor, then install an external unit at an altitude of at least 2 meters, and even try to hide it for the bars, so that lovers of light profit did not have a temptation to pull it quickly
Note that most of the budget split systems practically do not work "for heat" in temperature mode Below "-15" degrees and then you will have to make your air conditioner with a compressor heater, a heat pump and a drainage tube heater.
There are questions - please contact, together try to figure out and understand how to install the system split split and stay alive and unharmed :-)
Processed
Problem: The main difficulty with which the buyer of the Split system faces is the problem of proper installation. Installation by 90% defines the quality and service life of the air conditioner. If errors are made when installed, then fix them is very difficult.
Decision: Installation should carry out specialists who have a license to install air conditioners, with the instructions and using special equipment. After mounting in the room there should be no debris nor dust or boxes. The word "air conditioning" worried only in our country. This is actually a piece of phrase AIR-Condition, which translated from English means "air condition". The air conditioner is used to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. Vinting air, air conditioning cleans it, passing the air flow through special filters.
Today we will talk about installing a more modern type of air conditioning system - about split system. What are the advantages of the split system before "ordinary" air conditioning? The split system does not light up natural light as "OBSNIK", which is embedded into the window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the system of general air conditioning at home, if there is something (this is when one hefty block costs somewhere in the basement and drives the air throughout the house). And differs from the "ordinary" air conditioner in what consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two internal blocks, then this is already called the "multisplit system".
But let's agree: for simplicity, I will talk about a split system, calling it more familiar to our ear, the word "air conditioning" for our ear.
First - repair, then - split
So, the split system (from the English word SPLIT - "split, split") consists of two separate blocks: an internal (evaporator) and an outdoor or external (condenser). Blocks are connected to each other by electrical drives and two copper tubesfor which refrigerant flows (Freon). From the inner block, the plastic thin tube (drainage) is also departed - for the output of condensed moisture. Ideally, it must be connected to the drain (sewer) pipe or to a special reservoir, but often it is made simply outside, and then water drops fall on the head passersby (about how to make drainage correctly, see further).
The principle of operation of the split system is such. If the room is required to cool, then from the heat exchanger of the external block on one copper tube, the freon enters the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. There is blown by the fan, with the result that cold air comes from the indoor unit. If the air in the room should be heated, then with the help of the heat pump, the external capacitor turns into an evaporator, and the evaporator becomes a condenser. In addition to the condenser and evaporator, the split system includes a compressor that is installed in the external block. The main function of the compressor is to compress freon to give this gas properties that significantly increase the efficiency of the air conditioner.
Split system:
1 - Outdoor (external) block
2 - inner wall block
The internal unit works almost silently (Daikin models have the noise level of some internal blocks of 28 to 31 dB, and Mitsubishi, when the engine is on at the lowest speed, - 26 dB; the same level of noise creates a flying butterfly). But the fan and compressor of the external device can "buzz" and pogrom.
Internal blocks according to the fastening method are wall-mounted and outdoor ceiling (outdoor ceiling are called so because they can be attached to the ceiling, and to the floor). There are still cassette and multi-zone internal blocks, but we will talk about them next time.
Wall internal blocks are most often installed in the apartments. With the help of moving blinds of the wall block, the direction of air flow can be changed. But the power of wall blocks is specifically limited - otherwise a strong jet of cold air will simply "blow up" everything in its path. But if in the room (for example, in the office), a more powerful air conditioner is required, an outdoor ceiling unit is installed. It will help to direct a strong jet along the wall or ceiling and thus ensure a uniform temperature distribution of the room.
Our advice: if the length of the room significantly exceeds its width, it is much more efficient to establish the outdoor ceiling air conditioning!
Split systems differ in power (cooling capacity) and design. Selection of design - at the discretion of the buyer. But about power it is necessary to consult with a specialist. At the same time you need to know:
1. Area (volume) of your room.
2. The size of the window, the side of the light to which it comes out.
3. Availability (absence) blinds on the windows.
4. The number of permanently operating equipment highlighting the heat (TV, computer, etc.).
5. The number of heating batteries in the rooms.
6. The number of people constantly located in the room.
7. Is there a forced ventilation?
Another advice: if on the firm where you want to buy air conditioning, you did not ask anything about it, then it is better not to buy from them. Because there is a danger that you are offered "typical not that". In solid firms before selling an air conditioner, the consultant, as a rule, leaves the position of the proposed installation of the device, makes measurements and finds out all the necessary details. Then all these data are entered into the program, and only after that the computer selects the optimal model. For example, work in the Aeroproprop company, specializing in Cerrier air conditioners (CARRIER), in the company "Meteomarket" (Daikin air conditioners (Daikin) and Climatss (Hitachi air conditioners) (Hitachi) ).
This is how the distribution of air flows from the wall-mounted block looks
What else do you need to know? To put a split system experts advise before or during repair, and not after all repair work already spent. Then it is not necessary to hammer and drill freshly stained and aligned walls to lay the electrical wiring for the air conditioner and strengthen the brackets for fastening the indoor unit. You can, of course, hide communications into external boxes, but it will not decorate the interior.
Moreover, installation work in a freshly surmounted apartment is much more expensive, especially after the renovation.
Now about other possible ambushes. Very often, errors begin when buying an air conditioner. Wanting to save, we go to the nearest store (and on the market) and buy air conditioning. So what? And all: we are alone with him. At best, after reading the instructions carefully, we take it to install it.
Meanwhile, the installation of the split system in the apartment is not at all the same as the installation of a refrigerator or TV: they say, brought home, put in the selected place, turned on and - works! With air conditioning, this number will not pass. Air conditioning requires competent installation. There is just the case when you cannot save on the installation. The better set - the longer will last. Not by chance, because mounting work Make up 18-30% of the cost of the unit.
I remember how one experienced and discrepanted installer, answering my, quite an innocent question: where to start the installation of the air conditioner, suddenly worried and crushed: "People! You are all competent! Each air conditioner is given instructions in Russian, in it and installation, and the rules of operation are painted "for fools", on points. Yes, read it, damn it, before you press your hands! And even better - call specialists. " And he, alas, right.
Installation: where to start?
Split System Installation Scheme
1. Communications (in the Stroker)
2. Drainage (in the Stroker)
3. Sewerage
4. Siphon
5. Wiring - to the shield (in the stroke)
6. Hole in the wall, punched with a slope of 1-3 °
First stage: separate wiring is carried out
To anyone, even a low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate wiring and put a separate automatic machine. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and, God forbid, will light up. If a separate wiring for the air conditioner, installers will be put - the possibility of fire is reduced to almost zero.
Especially be alert if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, wiring, alas, is not designed for loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment. The installers remember the case when the owner of the apartment because of the air conditioner was forced to replace the entire wiring: the old simply could not stand and constantly knocked the plugs.
Second Stage: Installation of the Outdoor Block
For this, the installers drill holes for brackets, which then install the external unit.
If you put it on an open balcony, there are no problems: they attached bolts, the breeze blows it - and order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break it). If you want to attach a block on the wall, then without solid brackets can not do. Moreover, they must withstand weight, several times higher than the weight of the block. In the high floors, the "outernik" is mounted with a machine equipped with a sliding staircase. Or cause climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such challenges are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes appliances are required in the form of a machine with a fire staircase, and a climber.
External and internal (wall) blocks of the split-system "Kerrier"
If you live on the upper floors, the outdoor unit can be put on the roof. But note that the difference between the inner and external blocks in height should not exceed 3-20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).
If your apartment is located on the first floor, I strongly recommend hanging the external unit above 1.8-2 meters above the ground and "hide" it into a cage. And then can and steal. On one of the firms we told the story. A man came and ordered only an external block. Managers were surprised: "Why don't you want the entire split system." - "Yes, I have an inside air conditioner, but the outer" box "was cut yesterday. On the first floor, under the window hung. " Regardless of the height, on which the external block is "applied", a metal visor should be made over it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in its path.
Generally installing an external block - a responsible business. If it is poorly fixed, he can fall and fall apart ... for someone. During the warranty period, the responsibility for the consequences of this is a firm that has established air conditioning. And after - you yourself will answer.
What can not be done with an external (outer) block?
There are location limits for installing an external unit:
1. The surface of the wall to which the block will be installed must be durable (otherwise under the weight of the block it can collapse) and smooth (otherwise the unit will vibrate and deform).
2. It is impossible to carry the tube with the refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and develop their connections (this will lead to refrigerant leakage). If the tubes twisted into the ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, the compressor will be more difficult to download freon.
Third Stage: Installing the Inner Block
Air conditioning control panel
The installers are fixed with screws to the wall (if a block wall) or ceiling (if the ceiling unit) special brackets and blocks are installed on them. After that, it is necessary to check the strength of the fasteners (whether the design does not stick? When the air conditioner is turned on, does not vibrate?). Otherwise, sooner or later, the whole design can simply conjure you on the head.
But for the outdoor unit of special fasteners is not required. He, as they say, will stand on foot. " It is only necessary to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, consider the block to do not blow on the curtains or on the wall and stood away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, but after laying all communications, it is impossible to move it from place to place.
So, the internal unit cannot be installed:
1. ... above the source of heat (for example, above the battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work on cooling "before the loss of the pulse" and will very quickly fail. Imagine that you opened the refrigerator door, and it will cool not only the camera, but also the whole room. He "earned" and fails by the end of the day. The same happens with air conditioning. In addition, from the heat emanating from the room battery, the plastic block of the block can be deformed.
2. ... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly working (for example, drill, drilling machine). High-frequency oscillations can "knock down" chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
3. ... directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger to constantly catch up or, worse, getting sick with inflammation of the lungs.
4. ... where air circulation will be difficult, for example, behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which supports the specified temperature automatically, will fail. Cooled (or heated) Air conditioning flow from the air conditioner will reflect on the obstacle and returns back to the same temperature, with which "out". The air conditioner will solve that the work has been done, the desired climate is installed and turns off. This is how my friends happened. Their air conditioner is constantly "confused in the curtains" and disconnected, without having time to bring the room temperature to a given one. I had to call specialists and re-install the system.
5. ... with a breakdown - then water (condensate) will flow from it, which, according to the installation rules, should be discharged by the drainage tube into a special tank (see our reference of the drainage). Fourth Stage: Stroshings of walls or floor
In order to connect the electrical pipes and freon tubes between the air conditioner blocks, the installers pierce the gutter in the walls or on the ceiling (or as the installers say - you need to "stamp the highway"). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to "stamp", for example, not a wall, and the floor of the apartment.
Do not want to stroke? Then you can hide the wires into decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the box is cleaned under the plinth). But before this, the installers will have to connect two copper tubes (for refrigerant) and the "ends" of electrical wiring between the external and internal blocks. Make sure that the installers do it with the help of connecting fittings. And in a pre-punched hole in the outer wall, the "waterproofing glass" was laid with a connecting hose.
Installers come to place with all the necessary equipment, Communications are laid in the stroke, the drainage tube is put in the stroke under the slope
After that, they must carry out the so-called vacuuming of communications, and necessarily for 50 minutes (it is during this time "extra" air and moisture will be released from communications). This manipulation is done necessarily with the help of special equipment.
And keep in mind - for the drainage tube, as a rule, make a separate hidden highway (in the wall or under the floor).
Fifth Stage: Checking the system using a special program
At this stage, the installers must include a split system (air conditioning) by setting it on the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, it means that order. The work is almost completed. By the way, we advise you to independently carry out such an inspection of the system (using the same test program).
Sixth Stage: garbage cleaning
Must warn: Laying the highway and other installation procedures are dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will come with special tools (including a metal detector for surveying walls for the presence of fittings and hidden communications).
In addition, installers must have a vacuum cleaner and other harvesting machines. With their help after the end of the work, they must independently remove all the garbage. If the installers are trying to dodge the "dirty" work, strictly demand - "cleaning the territory" is included in payment for the installation of the air conditioner. In addition, a solid company can conclude a contract for the prophylactic service of the split system. Then you do not have to risen your life, leaning around the belt from the window, clean the outer block with a vacuum cleaner or cause climbers for your money. At the conclusion of such a contract (the warranty repair is included in it), of course, you will have to pay an enynu amount, but believe me, it is worth it. By the way, I have a rush to report a pleasant detail: the company "Meteomarket" selling Japanese air conditioners Daikin (Daikin), after a three-year term of the contract for service freely replace your air conditioning for a new one. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit - you can not change it 20 years. The company guarantees his uninterrupted good job. By the way, in a deliberate building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners (Daikin) are still since the "corn general" Nikita Khrushchev and still work well.
The outer block must be cleaned regularly from dust and dirt. Especially the difficult period of the outdoor unit - the flowering time of poplars. Pooh instantly clogs filters, and air conditioning (if it is not cleaned immediately) breaks. Of course, you can clean the vacuum cleaner, if not afraid of height. But it is better not to risk and call the "service of rescue air conditioners" - that is, the maintenance company.
At temperatures below -15 ° C, the air conditioner may refuse to work "on heat", and then you need low-temperature equipment (heat pump, compressor heater, and even a drainage tube heater). By the way, these devices are already laid in some models (see Table).
What did the installers say?
Experienced installers do not advise you to buy air conditioners "who have", in the market or with hands.
- How many times have happened, the installation of illiterate uhary will be installed, and then people call us, begged to help, "one experienced installer told me from a very solid company. - Burn, it happened, with you such grief-installer copper tube for freon, and it without plugs. If there is no plug, it means that the wet air will fall inside. And the humidity is invalid for the air conditioner: connecting with the insides of the entire system, forms acid, eating the air conditioner mechanism from the inside! And instead of serving for many years, such an air conditioner is already in three years, it is clear, sent to the landfill.
The installers told me that it was sometimes very observed customers, they say, "I cry, do the same as I say!". How to be? I recently had a case. The client ordered to establish an outdoor unit from the street, but inside the apartment, and in the children's room. Motivated this with a strange statement that his children, they say, will live for another two months in the country. All the persuasors and arguments of installers that the outer block cannot be put in closed, and even more so in the residential room, he ignored. It is clear that after two months the stubborn buyer called the installers to reinstall everything in a new one.
Or here is the case. The client wished the internal block to blow straight on the bed, and the air temperature would be 18 ° C. He was trying to prove that it would be cold, in addition, the directional flow of cold air can cause a cold. "Not! Will not catch up! Put! " There is nothing to do, put it. The next day came to install air conditioner already in another room, see, and the temperature on that yesterday split, installed at 22 ° C.
- What is it? - Ask.
- True, your guys, frozen at night.
Generally, for proper work The air conditioner does not have to feel that something cools it or heats. Just comfortable - and that's it! Somehow called one friend, asked to come. Says: "I am, however, I didn't buy you." Okay, went. Revealed the block, and there - the milk rat.
That's it. Hence the conclusion - to buy a little and install the split system. The main thing is that you make it professionals.
The order of installation of the split system
1. Wiring for a separate electrical wiring for air conditioner and installing a separate "automaton" in the distribution panel.
2. Installation of an external (outer) unit:
3. Installation of the indoor unit:
4. Connecting wire wires:
5. Trial switching on the system:
6. Room cleaning (forces of installers).
How should the right drainage be arranged?
For this, installers should:
1. Stroke the highway.
2. Place the water in the apartment.
3. Drill B. sewage pipe hole.
4. Tightly put into the hole drainage plastic tube with a siphon. The layer of water in the siphon will detain the smell that comes from the sewage.
Attention! A drainage tube on which the accumulated moisture is given must go be sure to be under the inclination of 5-10 mm so that there is a natural flow of water. If the slope is made for some reason it is not possible, you must install a special pump for "compulsory moisture suction". But! Such a pump is not included, and it needs to be bought separately. Purchase will cost 70 - 190 dollars, depending on the pump model you choose.
The main problems arising from the operation of the air conditioner
Problem 1: Air conditioner blows right on you, creating a feeling of draft.
Solution: It is necessary to include the auto-oscillation feature of horizontal blinds (then the draft will turn into a light breeze) or fix the horizontal flaps in a better position. If this does not give the result, you need to rotate the air flow to the left or right with vertical air dampers. In most air conditioners, this operation is done manually, but in some models it can be carried out using the remote control.
Problem 2: On hot days, the air conditioner does not create the necessary coolness, despite the fact that it works constantly.
Solution: In this case, check whether the filters were not closed, whether windows and doors were closed, whether additional heating devices (boiling elements or toasters) are closed. It can be recommended to hang on the windows dense white blinds, well reflecting heat and light, thus reduce the heat absorbance through the windows almost twice. If it does not help, the model must be replaced with more powerful.
Problem 3: From the inner block of the split system dripping water.
Solution: apparently, a drainage pipe was hammered. Most often, this situation occurs when the air conditioner with a drainage pipe was derived to cool at a minus temperature. In this case, condensate can turn into an ice cork. To avoid this, you need to heat the drain pipeline up to +5 ° C using a special cable. If the ice traffic jam still originated, then it is worth waiting for thaw, and until the moment does not include the cooling system.
Problem 4: Weakening airflow.
Solution: Clean air filter. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or rinse with a soft sponge in warm water. Operate air conditioning without a filter is not recommended because it protects not only your lungs, but also the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. When drank the last efficiency of the air conditioner drops.
Problem 5: icing an external block when operating the air conditioner to heating in conditions of small negative temperatures and high humidity.
Solution: If the air conditioner is not equipped with an automatic defrost system, try turning it on in cooling mode. In this case, the external block begins to give heat outdoor, heats up and gradually pulls off.
Problem 6: Premature air conditioner outlet.
Solution: To avoid this, it is not necessary to operate it at temperatures below - 10-15 ° C. At a lower temperature, the oil in the compressor is thick, and its wear has increased repeatedly. There are different rumors about the dangers of air conditioners. But in the press center of the metropolitan SES, we were told that there was nothing to be afraid of: with a timely replacement of filters and, subject to the rules of operation, there is no harm to the split system in itself. At least, complaints in SanEpidemadzor did not receive.
Any air conditioner consists of two different parts of the parts: a refrigeration circuit that performs the air cooling function and the electrical part, controlling devices and contour elements.
This article will consider the electrical circuit of the air conditioner, the options for connecting it to the power supply and how to connect the air conditioner to the power grid.
The electrical circuit of the air conditioner is a document in which the location of electronic components is displayed, their connection, as well as information for engineers service centers. All who do more interest the electrical circuit of connecting an air conditioner, which includes the location of the main devices of evaporative and condenser block, Terminals for connecting blocks between themselves and connecting the power supply.
The main elements here are:
Designations of terminals in the terminal block:
1 (N) - zero.
3 - Power supply to the fan motor when working in small turns.
4 - power supply on the fan motor when it works at elevated circulation.
Separate terminal - Earth. 
Main modules and blocks:
Terminal (on the board is indicated by Terminal) for connecting the cable of evaporative and condenser blocks. Terms L and N - power conditioner from El. Transmissions. You should know that there is a connection of the air conditioner to the electrical outlet through the external block.
With such a connection, you must be guided by the instruction. If the climatic equipment is connected with a power up to 4, 5 kW, the four-tier copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 should be used. With a separate power branch, a capacity of 20 A. is required to be installed on the shield. 
After them, it is necessary to connect with each other a four-core copper cable with a cross-section area of \u200b\u200bat least 2.5 mm 2. Instructions for connecting serves schematic schemewhich was considered sufficiently detailed. The connecting cable can be paved together with the freon highway, and maybe in a separate plastic box.
When laying in one stroke, along with copper tubes, use a corrugated plastic tube for insulation cable.
After the inter-block electrical connection, connect the internal unit to the power supply. Diagram Connecting an air conditioner to the power grid assumesing food, both from the nearest outlet and from a separate line.
An ideal option for connecting enough powerful climate machinery is a separate power line. Such an option will not load the existing lines of the apartment electrical system and will allow power to be powered directly to the inner block of the split system. The power cable gasket from the panel to the indoor unit can be performed on the stroke groove in the wall material or in a special plastic box. 
The shield from which the individual power line must be grounded. Connecting the power cable to the terminal shield should be carried out only through an automatic, the power of which should be calculated by the formula: the power of the device is divided into voltage. Add 30% of the reserve to the resulting value.
It should be understood that the power cable of the climate technique can be tested to the outlet only if:
This question could not be considered, due to the presence of outlets in the room. But, some owners of low-power climatic equipment are dissatisfied with the spent wire from the outlet to the consumer, often across the wall.
If the socket is far enough from the air conditioner, then there is an air conditioner connection option to a power circuit with a switch. I warn you right away: this option is suitable only for low-power climate techniques and this is why: the terminals of the ordinary switch can simply not withstand the current passing through them. As a result, heating, sparking, failover failure (at best) or fire. 
Better from the acting socket to label the groove in the wall and pave the power cable in the corrugation to the split system along it, and then build a special outlet with a decorative lining into the wall. The socket must withstand a certain current: if 1 kW is a power, then the socket must withstand 9-10 A; from 1 to 3 kW - 16-18 A; from 3 to 4.6 kW - 20 A; from 4.6 to 5.5 - not less than 25 A. Right choice It is best to entrust the qualified electrician.
If you decide to connect the air conditioner with your own hands, then do it in compliance with all the safety rules, and in order to completely be sure that the connection process has passed correctly and safely for climate technology and dwelling inhabitants, please contact professionals for help.
