When you design a frame house without any practical experience in the construction of such buildings, many questions inevitably arise. One of them is at what distance from each other you need to place the racks in the walls.
One thing can be said right away: it all depends on the materials that you plan to use in construction. For example, if you plan to sheathe the frame from the outside and from the inside with boards, then there is no reason to rely on the sheathing material in the calculations. It is better in this case to proceed from the size of the insulation. Let's say you are going to use Rockwool basalt insulation boards. Standard width such plates - 60 cm. So, it is most convenient to make internal gaps between the racks at 58 cm, then the insulation will fill the sections tightly, and you will have to cut it less.But the sheathing is also made of other materials, which can have strict dimensions in width and length. When such materials are relatively expensive, there is a desire to match their dimensions with the distance between the posts so that there is less waste. After all, insulation plates are easier to fit, they are cut easily, you can even fill the gaps with pieces, and there will be almost no scraps.
It is unlikely that you want to have a house without windows and doors. Narrow windows, which fit into a vertical clearance of about 60 cm, are not a problem to order, although they are not always convenient. But you are unlikely to enjoy using doors of this width. To do this, the whole family will have to go on a diet for a long time. That is, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the distance between the posts will not be uniform along the entire perimeter of the bearing walls. Door and window frames can be of different proportions, and each of them will need to be built into the wall, disrupting the orderly rows of uprights in the most bizarre way.
Thus, it remains to admit that there simply cannot be any strictly established distances between the posts. It all depends on your capabilities, taste and desire. Rather, it is necessary to proceed from the provision of the necessary strength to the entire structure as a whole. Some homeowners find it offensive after a strong wind to find the roof of their home in the neighbors' garden. Others, for some reason, are very upset if the structure develops in disarray, like a house of cards. As in the tale of the three piglets.
So you better pay attention to the fact that the racks themselves have sufficient transverse section, and the distance between them was not excessive. Most often, the racks are made of edged boards with a section of 50X150mm. The distance between them, depending on the specific place of the wall, can vary from 50cm to 80cm. In some places, the distance between the posts will simply have to be spread up to 100-105cm. This applies, first of all, to door and window openings. So in some places it is not harmful to use a beam with a section of 100X150mm, and even 150X150mm as racks.
Vertical struts, even relatively small in cross-section, if they are straight, are capable of withstanding substantial vertical loads. But the stand, curved in an arc, becomes noticeably lower in its bearing capacity. When you select the material for these structural parts, then pay attention to their quality: the racks should be straight, not have large knots, especially dropping out, rot and debris. When there is no choice, you have to reluctantly use what you have. And if the material does not inspire much confidence, then it is better to play it safe and place the racks even more often than it would seem required by the calculations.
But the top-down loads experienced by house structures are not the whole story. As mentioned, the wind also contributes to the strength test of the home. Therefore, the strength of the entire structure also depends on the reliable connection of the ends of the posts with the upper and lower straps, between which these posts are located. Accordingly, the more racks, the more connection points, and the stronger the building will be. So choose the golden mean between the unbridled fanaticism of extravagance and unreasonable frugality - and everything will be in order.
When planning a frame house, the main thing is the choice of the step of the racks. The strength of the supporting structure, reliability and durability of new housing depends on it. In addition, the choice of the pitch of the racks is both the choice of the pitch of the floor beams and the choice of the pitch of the rafters. It is in this dependence that all the elements of the construction of the house are located - the step size of each of them should be the same. This is necessary for the best transfer of the load over supporting structures the entire structure.
There can be no definite answer to this question - frame houses are of several types, and the step of the racks depends on the initial data of each of them, for example:
But you can focus on 50-70 centimeters, a more accurate value can mature only when considering all the factors affecting this mysterious value.
When calculating the optimal pitch of the racks, it is necessary to take into account what materials will be used for insulation and decoration of the house, what they have dimensions... This will significantly reduce their consumption.
Using mineral wool as a heater, there are several options for choosing the pitch of the racks:
If expanded polystyrene sheets are chosen for house insulation, then the step of the racks is selected according to their size. Taking into account the ability of the foam to decrease over time, we can estimate that in six months its dimensions will become 99 by 198 cm with the standard 100 by 200. Taking into account the additional loss of length when sawing the sheet, the real width of its half will be about 494 millimeters. This value can be taken as a basis for calculating the pitch of the stands.
It should be noted that in the locations of window and doorways the spacing of the racks will differ from that adopted for the walls.
When choosing one or another option for warming a house, it is important to know that with a rack size of 150x50 mm, the permissible step should be no wider than 650 millimeters. If the dimensions of the racks are 100x50 mm, the step should be no wider than 400 millimeters.
In the previous article, we covered. This article is intermediate between building a foundation and a frame for a frame house. In it, we will consider what you need to know before starting to build a frame with your own hands. Directly, the assembly of the frame will be described in the next article of the cycle.
Frame-panel and frame-panel board. Frame elements, thermal insulation, wiring of communications, etc. they are assembled into semi-finished elements of floors, floors, roofs, as well as walls, sometimes with windows and doors already built into them. They are collected in production, and then brought to the construction site and within a few days they are assembled into a full-fledged house. Houses made of SIP panels (Structural Insulated Panels) also belong to this technology. To assemble a house, you need special lifting equipment.
House from SIP panels
Frame-frame. The frame and other elements of the house are assembled directly on the construction site. Cheaper than frame-panel and panel technologies by an average of 20%.
Frame-frame half-timbered house
The frame of such walls is made of wooden beams, and the gaps are filled with bricks, adobe material (adobe) or stone.
Half-timbered house
If you are planning to build a house yourself, then a frame-frame technology is more suitable. This is due to the fact that such a house can be independently built by 1-2 people without special equipment, and it is also the most economical. Therefore, in this article we will focus on it.
There are many ways and types of wood joining. I will list only the most important ones: a cut, a key, rod connections (bolts, dowels, nails), a connection using steel plates (perforated and not), screws and wood grouses, staples, nail plates and shaped parts made of sheet steel (corner plates, shoes ).
Frame fastener options
Each of these fastening options is better for some nodes, and for some it is not at all suitable for various reasons (weakening of wood, complexity of execution or laboriousness). We will not dwell on each type of fastening in detail. But it is important that you understand that absolutely every node of a frame house can be made using two or three different options fastening. And they can all be correct.
I will describe in detail at each specific attachment point only the method of attachment that has been tested by us in practice and is precisely reliable. One method of fastening, for example, nails or plates, is difficult to do. Basically, this is a combination different options fastening.
The most commonly used conifers are pine, spruce and fir. This is due to the fact that conifers contain resins, due to which they resist moisture and decay better than deciduous ones. Spruce and fir are often shipped together, mixed, since they have almost the same properties. Pine is more resistant to weathering than spruce and fir. Larch, although it belongs to conifers- it breaks easily when nails are driven into it, therefore it is not very suitable. Wood deciduous trees denser, stronger, less amenable to shrinkage and swelling, but has more knots and is more difficult to process. Mostly hardwood is only used for small connecting parts such as wedges and keys.
Moisture content of sawn timber to be purchasedWood moisture is the ratio of the amount of moisture in wood to the mass of wood in an absolutely dry state, expressed as a percentage. It is determined using special devices - moisture meters.
The tree tends to shrink unevenly during the drying process. So the shrinkage in the direction of the annual rings of the tree is about 5%, in the radial direction - 3% and along the length - 0.3%.
Tree shrinkage
It is this uneven shrinkage that leads to an unpredictable change in the shape of elements and structures made of not dried wood.
Wood moisture levels:
In the event that you do not plan to use OSB for sheathing the frame, the wood must be dried (moisture content 7-15%). It will definitely not lead, but it is almost 1.5 times more expensive than air-dried. If the tree is not dried, then OSB sheathing is required on both sides. You need to sheathe the OSB frame immediately. It will restrain possible movements and curvatures of the frame during the natural drying of the tree. Plus, it will give the frame spatial rigidity.
All frame elements are made exclusively of sawn material, i.e. wood, cleaned of bark and sawn on a sawmill into bars, boards and slats of the desired section.
The length of lumber is usually from 1.8 m to 6 m, with a gap of 0.3 m. If possible, order the wood on the sawmill in the desired length immediately, again to cut less. But also no less length than necessary, because if there is no possibility of beams, logs, etc. put the whole length, then they will have to be assembled from pieces. At the same time, the bearing capacity of the elements and the entire structure is partially lost, so the overlap of the boards will need to be made quite large, and this will entail an overuse of wood. Plus you have to play a lot. For example, the beams will need to be connected with an overlap of about 1 meter, and connected with a bolted connection. So it is easier to order lumber of the required length.
The main elements of the frame are shown in the figure below. Further I will give the recommended cross-sections, lengths and spacing of all these elements. All this data is needed in order to lay out the frame and calculate the total volume of the forest, which will be used for its construction.
Frame elements
Section. The width depends on the thickness of the insulation in the walls. Height not less than 100 mm. So, for example, with a thickness of insulation in the walls up to 100 mm - the cross-section of a bar bottom strapping will be 100x100 mm (WxH). And with a thickness of insulation from 100 to 150 mm - 150x100 mm (WxH). It is better if it is a solid bar, but if this is not possible, then the lower strapping can be knocked down in two parts.
Length. The lower strapping beam is laid approximately in the center of the grillage. Based on this, having the exact dimensions and foundation plan, you can estimate the total length of the timber.
Fasteners. Fastened to the concrete grillage with anchor bolts Ø 16 mm with a hex head for a wrench. Or, as an alternative, you can lay metal studs with threads of the same diameter (16 mm) in the right places during the concreting process. Fastening in all corners and places of abutment of internal load-bearing walls to external ones, as well as between corners with a step of 1-1.2 m. they protruded 10-15 cm above the concrete surface. In total, the length of each piece of hairpin is about 30 cm. On sale, they are usually 1 m long, i.e. from one meter hairpin, you can make 3 mortgages of the length we need.
It is fastened to each other in the corners with wooden pins - dowels.
Nails for fastening the bars together - 4 nails for each corner, length 150 mm (diameter 5-6 mm).
Terms
Beams- thickness and width 100 mm or more (usually up to 250 mm).
Bar (narrow board)- width no more than double thickness (50x100 mm, 100x200 mm).
Board- the width is more than double thickness.
Thin board- sawn timber, 8-25 mm thick and at least 2 times wider than the thickness.
Thick board- sawn timber, 25-50 mm thick and at least 2 times wider than the thickness.
I-beam- load-bearing construction products, consisting of two solid wood bars, interconnected by a plywood or OSB stiffener. Used in construction frame houses on Canadian technology, as load-bearing elements of the frame and floors. They can be used as floor beams for large spans, more than 6 m, since it is difficult to find a solid edged beam of this length.
The frame of the house is most often erected from bars (50x100 mm, 100x150 mm) or thick boards (50x150 mm), depending on the number of storeys of the house and the thickness of the insulation that will fit between the frame posts.
Board and bar
Sometimes, when it is necessary to use a bar with a cross-section, for example, 100x150 mm, in order to reduce the cost, it is replaced with spliced boards. For example, take 2 boards with a section of 40x150 mm and from them the so-called "bar" 120x150 mm is hammered, as shown in the figure below.
Splicing boards
I will give sections of solid beams, since in this cycle we are considering the technology of erecting the frame from them.
Section. The width of the rack depends on the thickness of the insulation, which you will later need to place between the racks. So, for example, if, according to the calculation, the insulation is needed up to 100 to 150 mm, then the thickness of the rack is 150 mm. If, according to the calculation, less than 100 mm of insulation is needed, then a stand with a width of 100 mm can be used.
Note: If you do not know what thickness of insulation is needed for your home, then we can calculate it for you. To do this, ask a question in the section.
The thickness of the rack depends on the number of storeys of the raging building: 1st floor - width 50 mm, 2 floors - width 100 mm. 150x50 - 1st floor.
Thus, if you have insulation, for example, 150 mm, then for one-storey house on the vertical racks of the frame, thick boards with a section of 150x50 mm are suitable for you, and for two-storey house already bars, with a section of 150x100 mm.
Corner posts have a different cross-section than the rest of the upright posts. They should be square. So, for example, if you do not have corner posts of 150x50 mm, then the corner post will have a section of 150x150 mm. And if you have not angular 100x50 mm, then angular, respectively 100x100 mm.
Length. According to the standards, the floor height in a residential building must be at least 2.5 m from floor to ceiling. In the bathrooms and those. rooms are allowed 2.1 m. And here it is important to consider that the height of the frame rack is equal to the height of the finished floor + the height of the floor (logs and floorboard or SOB) + the material of the ceiling lining. Sometimes the racks are taken equal to the height of the final ceiling, and as a result, the ceilings are 20-30 cm lower than planned.
Step. It is important to take into account that the step of the frame racks is the distance between the axes of the racks, and not the distance between their edges. The recommended pitch of the racks is no more than 60 cm.When choosing the pitch of the racks, you should focus on 2 things:
It is extremely rare to make the step of the racks so that the OSB is not cut and the insulation is not cut. In most cases, you have to choose "the lesser of two evils."
Plus, it is important to take into account that in those places where window or door openings are planned, the step of the racks will be different.
Section. Just like the cross-section of the lower strapping bar, the cross-section of the upper strapping bar depends on the thickness of the insulation in the walls. The height must be greater than the width (for the beam to work like a beam) or the same. So, for example, if the thickness of the insulation in the walls is up to 100 mm, the cross-section of the bar of the lower strapping will be 100x150 mm (WxH). And with a thickness of insulation from 100 to 150 mm - 150x180 mm (WxH).
Length. The same as for the lower strapping.
Fasteners. Attached to each upright with 2 x 150mm nails.
Cross section... Depends on the material of the floor covering, the size of the span, as well as the thickness of the insulation that will fit between the logs. The minimum section of the lag is 50x100, the optimal one is 80x150. But it is advisable to select the lag section for each specific case individually.
Note. If you do not know which section to take, then we can calculate it. To do this, ask a question in the FAQ section.
Length. It rests on the bar of the lower strapping, on the basis of which, you can easily estimate the length of the lag.
Step. OSB with a thickness of 22 mm should rest on logs laid with a step of no more than 60-70 cm.With a thickness of 18-22 mm with a step of a log of no more than 50 cm, and OSB 15-18 mm - with a step of a log of no more than 40 cm. a board with a thickness of 30 mm should rest on logs laid with a pitch of 70-80 mm. It is important to remember here that the more often the logs lie, the stronger the floor.
Section. The waste remaining when cutting the vertical frame struts is ideal for mowing, i.e. the same section as the racks themselves. Also jibs can be used square section approximately 2 times thinner (or slightly more) than the vertical frame struts. Those. if the frame racks are 150 mm wide, then the slopes can be made from bars with a section of 75x75 mm or 100x100 mm.
Length. It is calculated and depends on the distance between the frame posts. For example, let's take an example with the distance between the vertical posts of the frame - 500 mm. The jib is attached at a vertical distance of 500 mm from the lower strapping bar, as shown in the figure below.
Fastening jibs
Thus, we get a right-angled triangle with legs of 250 and 500 mm.
Jib attachment, triangle
Step. 4 cuts for each vertical rack of the frame.
Section and pitch. The cross-section of the floor beams is selected based on the type of floor (attic, interfloor) and the size of the span. And the spacing of the beams directly depends on the section of the floor beams. So, for example, by increasing the cross-section, you can slightly reduce the step of the beams, and vice versa. Therefore, for the same span, 2-3 options for laying the beam floor can be correct at the same time. For example, for a span of 3 meters, the following are suitable: beams 130x90 mm with a step of 1000 mm, 120x80 mm with a step of 700 mm or 120x70 mm with a step of 700 mm.
It is better to place the beams with such a pitch so that they coincide with the frame posts. Then the load from the floor will be clearly transmitted to the load-bearing elements of the walls - the pillars.
Below I will give one example of the step and section of the floor beams for spans of 3, 4, 5 and 6 meters. Separately for the attic and separately for the interfloor overlap.
Attic floor:
Interfloor overlap:
The size of the spans is not always a multiple of 1 m, so if you have an intermediate value, then you can take the section and spacing of the beams for the next smaller span. Or ask, and we will calculate for you.
If the house is planned internal partitions, then by installing in the places of the device of future partitions of the support racks for the intermediate support of the floor beams, it is possible to reduce the size of the span, and thereby reduce the cross-section of the beams. Also, such support posts will be needed in those places where a staircase is planned.
Ceiling beams
Length. From the point of view of the bearing capacity of the floor, it is better to place the beams parallel to the wall of the house, which has a shorter length. So, for example, if the house has dimensions of 6x8 m, then it is better to lay the beams parallel to the 6 m long wall.
Also, the length of the floor beams depends on the type roof structure... The roof should have overhangs on each side of the order of 50 cm so that water from the roof does not flow onto the walls of the house. These overhangs are sometimes equipped with the rafters protruding, and sometimes due to the protruding beams. And that, and that option is correct. But in the first case, the length of the floor beams will be 1 m (50 cm + 50 cm = 1 m) shorter than in the second case.
This is the so-called box, it is sometimes called "loot" among the people. Again, it is done in different ways. If the window opening is small, and the weight of the window that will be installed in it is also (usual wooden window), then the horizontal elements of the window frame can be attached directly to the vertical posts of the frame using metal fasteners - corner overlays. If the opening is large or if you plan to install heavy metal-plastic windows with a multi-chamber glass unit, then under each horizontal element window frame(window sill and lintel) 2 additional frame support posts are installed. They are adjacent to the main frame posts and have a lower height than the main posts. Such an example of installing a window box is shown in the figure below.
Window opening design
Photo of the construction of the window opening in frame house
If the width of the window or door opening (in the figure is shown as " b ") is greater than the main step of the uprights ( a), then below and above the horizontal elements of the window and door frame one or several (depending on the width of the opening) intermediate shortened support legs are installed.
Scheme of the construction of a window opening in a frame house
Having a plan of the future house, and having decided on the section, step and length of the main frame elements, you can start calculating the amount of materials. For this, any method convenient for you will do. It is easier and more reliable to do such calculations on paper, having previously drawn all the walls of the future house in one plane (layout).
And even having made such a layout, when calculating the volume of materials, it is extremely rare to take into account with 100% accuracy the amount of wood for all elements of the frame. Therefore, it is better to take lumber of each section with a small margin. During the height of the construction, believe me, it is better this way than to stop the whole process and wait until the board of the required section is cut on the sawmill.
Usually, it is profitable to order lumber and bring everything to the construction site at once. Then the price for both material and delivery will be lower. When transporting and storing sawn timber, the moisture content in them should not change to a large extent. Store materials so that they do not bend or get wet. To do this, they need to be stacked in stacks on a flat base, raised above the ground. For example, pallets will do. Each row is rearranged with slats so that the tree breathes. It is advisable to cover the top with plastic wrap, especially during the rainy season. During long-term storage, moisture can accumulate under this film, therefore, in dry, sunny weather, the film must be periodically opened.
An unprotected tree is susceptible to rotting, destruction by insects and fungi, and also has a low fire resistance. All this reduces the service life of both individual frame elements and the whole house as a whole. Therefore, the tree must be protected, and everything, and not just the timber of the lower strapping, as is sometimes advised. For processing, it is best to use a combined protective compound that will protect the wood from all possible damage (listed above) in the complex.
In short, the impregnation technology looks like this: knock down a small trough with a length slightly longer than the length of the frame rack, with a width and depth of about two boards. Put a waterproofing film in it (fix it with a stapler). Pour the antiseptic pre-mixed with the required (according to the instructions) amount of water (usually 1 bag per bucket of water) into the trough. And you dip each board in turn in an antiseptic, smearing, if necessary, with a brush (or with a brush). Usually about 1 minute is enough for impregnation.
Chute for impregnating wood with an antiseptic
Note: If there are no boards of the required length at hand, then it is not necessary to buy them on purpose. You can put together such a trough, for example, from four racks (2 pieces on the bottom and 2 on the sides). Process all wooden elements in them. Drain the remainder of the antiseptic into a bucket. Disassemble the trough. And treat these 4 racks with the remnants of an antiseptic, smearing them well with a brush.
If you ordered concrete for pouring the foundation, then perhaps you still have a wooden gutter for supplying concrete, which is usually hammered in place. It can be used as a trough for impregnation, having previously muffled the ends.
Concrete chute
Fold the impregnated boards in such a way that there is maximum air access to all 4 edges of the board. In clear weather 1 day is enough for drying, i.e. the next day after processing, you can already mount the wood. Moreover. Sometimes it is advised to pre-grind the wood, so that it is smoother, less burrs and, accordingly, less consumption of antiseptic for impregnation. But this is also a waste of time, so it is more profitable for the fence, when it still needs to be sanded so that there are no burrs and the view is beautiful.
You need to process the tree just before assembling the frame. Since only in this case it can be properly saturated with an antiseptic, and not just superficially covered with a brush. Moreover, it is much easier to process on the ground and it comes out much better than standing on a stepladder.
Note: When impregnated, the antiseptic penetrates deep into the tree, about 1 cm. It is almost impossible to achieve such an effect from surface brushing with a brush.
Wood after treatment with an antiseptic
Sometimes you can hear recommendations to process the lower strapping beam with oil. This was done before, when there were no modern treatments - antiseptics. The beam was dipped for a while in boiling oil (like railway sleepers). Today, when there are ready-made antiseptic compounds, it makes no sense to process the timber. Since as a result the timber will be greasy, it will smell unpleasant, especially in the heat.
With what step should the racks be placed when designing the frame of a house or an outbuilding? What to be guided by when choosing the step of the racks in a frame house? The size of OSB sheets, plywood or the width of the insulation? How to take into account the deformation gap between the sheets of the outer skin, in the pitch of the posts of the wooden frame?
These are the first questions that arise from anyone who decided to design a frame house or any other building based on wooden frame, do it yourself. In the literature and textbooks, the spacing of the racks is often cited as 600 mm. in the centers of the posts or in 575 mm. between the racks, without giving much explanation of what caused these recommendations. And the lack of intelligible explanations makes many think and start looking for "their own way" ...
The choice of the step of the racks when erecting the frame must be approached in a complex way: i.e. take into account the format of OSB sheets or plywood for the outer sheathing of the frame, which will be used to insulate the walls, how and what will be used to decorate the premises inside the house. This approach will make it possible to optimally use materials, minimize waste, and find new opportunities to save energy, time, materials, and therefore money. So when choosing the step of the racks, first we advise you to think about how the "cake" of the wall in your frame house will look like.
What do you mean? For example, if a frame wall looks like this () siding, hydro-wind protection, osb, eco-wool insulation, craft paper, drywall. It makes sense to calculate the step of the racks for the dimensions of OSB or drywall, since for insulation with eco-cotton, the step of the racks is not of fundamental importance.
What should you choose? Format of drywall sheets or OSB boards? In this case, it is more reasonable to calculate the pitch of the frame racks for the format of drywall sheets, which is 600 mm, and cut the sheets of the outer sheathing with regard to the deformation gap.
In another version () for wall insulation, plates of basalt insulation "Rockwool", 600 mm wide, are used. with a deformation strip of 50 mm. For external wall cladding, OSB sheets 2500 x 1250 x 12 mm, a interior decoration produce clapboard. Here, the decisive influence on the pitch of the racks in the frame of the house has the format of OSB and stone wool slabs. Since we have basalt wool slabs with a deformation strip of 50 mm, the size between the posts can vary from 595 to 560 mm. The length of the lining also does not affect the pitch of the posts in the frame. Of the determining factors, only the size of the OSB sheets remains.
Let's say our building does not have complex corners, balconies and bay windows, which allows us to form an expansion joint between OSB sheets directly on the wall, simply by setting the circular saw blade to the thickness OSB boards and "drive away" all the joints of the sheets, before installation rafter system and roofs. The size of OSB sheets is 2500 x 1250 mm. Based on this, we get the step of the posts in the frame of 625 mm, and the distance between the posts will be 575 mm. This is enough to install the plates. basalt wool solely due to the deformation strip provided on them, without additional cutting of the slabs.
But if the frame of the house or the household block is insulated with foam plates, then the step of the racks is better to calculate according to the size of the plates. Otherwise, a lot of waste is generated. The calculation of the step of the racks of the wall frame under foam insulation has its own characteristics. Fresh foam sheets lose about 1 percent in size within about six months, then this process stops, that is, a sheet of 100 x 200 cm will subsequently dry out to 99 x 199 cm.
If the sheets will be cut with a fine-toothed saw, then another 3 - 4mm must be subtracted. Sawing a sheet that lay for six months, we get two strips with a width of about 492 - 494 mm. There are two ways to fix the foam between the uprights of the wall frame:
Option one (), the opening between the posts is reduced by 7 - 10 mm, that is, the posts are placed in increments of 530 - 535 mm. so that the sheets of polystyrene during installation enter between the racks, tightening a little, leaving no gaps, which can later become cold bridges. Carefulness and experience are required for this foam installation.
In the second version (), the racks are installed with a step of 560 mm. so that on all sides the opening is 6 - 10mm larger than the size of the foam plates. Then the slots on the sides, top and bottom are filled polyurethane foam... The gap is 6-10mm. optimal, in gaps less than 5 mm. the nozzle of the assembly gun is not included, and the gaps are more than 10 mm. increase the consumption of polyurethane foam.
But whatever you choose for insulation and wall decoration, when using 50 x 150 mm boards as frame racks. the spacing of the posts should not exceed 650 mm, and when using a board 50 x 100 mm. the maximum distance between the posts is 400 mm.
In general, as you can see, there is no universal answer to the question of which step of the racks to choose when building a frame house. You need to choose it in a comprehensive manner, taking into account both what the house will be insulated with, and what it will get off with.Otherwise, you may be faced with the fact that all materials will have to be cut and cut, increasing waste, labor costs, and the construction budget.
