House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» Installation of an interior door on foam without self-tapping screws. Door installation (theory and practice)

Installation of an interior door on foam without self-tapping screws. Door installation (theory and practice)

The composition of the foam can be one- and two-component. One-component foam ready to use, it is produced in small cylinders. When sprayed, the foam expands and reacts with the water in the air. This foam can grow up to 250%.

Two-component foam consists of a base and an activator. Before using the product, you need to remove the bottle seal and mix the components. This view foam quickly hardens, does not shrink, has good adhesion, provides good performance heat and sound insulation. Due to its nature, such foam is usually used for thermal insulation of walls and ceilings, but not for door installation.

How to properly foam metal entrance doors?

  1. To seal the slopes after installing a metal door with household foam, you need to insert spacers between the structure frame and the wall (the use of professional foam does not require this).
  2. Shake the foam bottle and moisten the opening with water. Moisturizing will improve the grip of the foam and allow it to set quickly. You need to wet the opening slightly, without pouring it abundantly with water.
  3. The balloon itself must be kept upside down. If the space between the box and the opening is 8-9 cm, fill in the excess space with some material.
  4. Consumption polyurethane foam should be such as to fill a third of the gap volume. Then the foam will increase in size.
  5. Vertical slots are filled from bottom to top to prevent foam from falling down. It takes a day to completely dry.
  6. The spacers can be removed after a few hours. After the foam has hardened, its excess is cut off, and the foam itself is covered with paint or putty.

Installation of door blocks from the STROYSTALINVEST company

To order iron doors it is possible in the STROYSTALINVEST company. Installation of metal doors in Moscow and the region is carried out by qualified specialists. In their work, they use quality materials, including professional polyurethane foam. A competently installed entrance structure will serve for its intended purpose for a long time, providing the room with reliable protection.

Each master is faced with the problem of how and what to attach assembled doors... To install the finished door block possible application different ways installation. Knowing these mounting options, you can easily choose the one that suits you. You will need a small set of tools such as a drill, hammer drill, level, screwdriver and hammer. Also, for direct fixing of the box in the opening, fasteners and mounting foam are needed. Depending on where you need to fix the door block, you may need self-tapping screws, dowels, anchors.

The main stages of installing the door block

At the very beginning, the old door frame is dismantled. It can be carried out using a nail puller (crowbar), having previously made cuts on both sides of each vertical bar, in order to then squeeze this structure from the opening. If anchor bolts were used during the installation of the old box, nails that cannot be unscrewed can be cut with a grinder.

Before installing the box of interior doors, it is necessary to check the verticals of the walls and take into account the differences in the level of the walls and floor. The door frame must be positioned so that if there are irregularities, the walls of the box do not go deeper into the opening. This is necessary for the fit of the door trims. In order to correctly position the door frame, you should use the building level and take into account all the errors of the opening.

First, the units are rigidly fixed in the opening, in order to achieve the initial level of rigidity, wedges are used. After completing the fixing work, it is worth re-checking the correct location with the level so that the box is level with the door.

Working with polyurethane foam

It is important to know the foam that is intended for the gun, it is much better and more convenient to work with due to the fact that it is more dosed and has a small expansion coefficient, it hardens much faster. Foam, which is supplied with a large amount with a straw, will expand for a longer time. Before starting work, it is better to close door leaf masking tape and film, because the foam is difficult to wash. It is important to know that you need to start foaming with fixing individual small areas. After 30 minutes, you can already walk the entire perimeter. All cracks are filled with foam (50% of the total volume). Do not fill with a lot of foam, because during expansion the foam will push the box inward. We recommend using professional foams.

Since the tree shrinks and expands precisely because of high humidity the consequence of the expansion is the deformation of the door block. The door will simply stop closing for this reason.

Video on possible door mounting methods

There are several ways to fix the door frame in the opening, each of which involves the use of special kind fastening. Various options fasteners provide a certain level of reliability and strength of the fixed structure. We hope video footage on the options for installing boxes wooden doors will help you.

A hidden way to install doors on foam

The door frame is fixed in the opening, wooden wedges are used to fix it, and correct location verified by building level... Foaming with polyurethane foam should be done little by little, in sections and intermittently to avoid deformation. The door frame is held practically thanks to the foam alone.

To maintain a gap between the frame and the door itself, small 3 mm spacers are used, which are inserted between the door and the frame. They can only be removed when the foam is dry. Usually the door is left overnight.

This method is convenient if you do not need to go into the room, it is quick and does not require much effort. It is important not to overdo it with foam so that you can open the door.

Installation of doors with clamps or spacers

The principle of installation lies in the fact that we use the spacers inside to temporarily fix the door block in the opening. These can be either ordinary wooden rivers or special adjustable devices.

Both are very good for light and small doors.

Fastening doors with Knauf hangers

For these purposes, Knauf direct suspensions, which are used in suspended ceilings, are the best suited.

  • First, the plates should be screwed to the box.
  • Insert the door into the opening.
  • We adjust the level.
  • We mark the places for the recess in the wall.
  • We make a selection for the plate.

After that, we set the level and fix the plates. For adjustment, we use wedging with wooden bars.

It is also necessary to take into account that with this method of mounting the box on the outer part of the wall, the place of the recess must be hidden under a layer of plaster. That is why this method is only good when there is no finishing.

New mounting options

This video will show you how to fix the door frame in the opening. This type of attachment is a box installation interior door, by putting the box on the screwed-in heads of the self-tapping screws, which are located at the ends of the opening. This happens with the help of metal plates with a hole, which are screwed on the outside of the box.

To achieve the final fixation of the box in doorway, the usual adjustment means are used.

With this method, the racks of the door block move freely in the opening.

A clear advantage of this method is the complete possibility of adjustment and, at the same time, rigid fixation while maintaining the original appearance of the box and exterior decoration walls.

Concealed installation, fastening under the hinges

As a rule, for the rigidity of the structure, screws or anchors are used, which are hidden under the hinges. To do this, a hole is made between the screws in the hinge and through it they are attached to the wall. On the side of the lock, another fastener is attached under the decorative plate. As a result, we get 3 fixation points.

After directly fixing, we put a spacer at the bottom of the doors, since the bottom is not fixed and all the gaps are filled with foam.

A significant plus of this method is the relative rigidity, preservation of the appearance.

Through fastening on anchors or screws

This is the most common standard installation option for interior doors. For this option, fastening, first, holes are drilled for anchors in the right places of the racks, then the door is fastened in the opening.

Training

  • Marking with 4 anchors on each side.
  • Drilling with a 14 mm pen to a depth of 10 mm (space for the plug).
  • We drill a through hole with a 10 mm pen (place for fixing with an anchor).

Then the box is exposed and drilled with 10 mm concrete under the anchor. When the box is on anchors, it is securely held and does not require any struts. The attachment points can be hidden by installing decorative caps the desired color, size (14 mm). Instead of anchors, screws can be used, this will reduce the diameter of the plug. This option is most reliable for heavy doors. With it, you can align (stretch) the curved rail. The doors can be used almost immediately. It is possible to adjust the gap. The downside is the presence of stubs.

Tips for installing door accessories

Conclusion

There are many options for installing the frame of interior doors, but it is worth choosing the one that is the easiest, most convenient and reliable, or the fastest. The choice can be made according to any method of door installation, but these methods can be influenced by what opening the installation is in, taking into account the intensity and other factors.

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Modern builders often use polyurethane foam to install doors and plastic windows... This is a convenient, inexpensive material that can not only ensure reliable fixation of parts, but also insulate openings from wind and moisture. There are different types of foam for PVC windows; which one will cope better with its task, it is worth figuring out.

What formulations are used?

Most foams have the same composition. The main substance is one-component polyurethane foam sealant. Thanks to the aerosol packaging, it is easy to apply to surfaces without getting your hands dirty. The second substance in the can is the propellant - this is the gas that displaces the polymer we need.

After drying, all types of foam become hard. Excess is easily cut off with a knife, the foam itself is putty, lends itself to any fine finishing. Polyurethane foam is used for PVC windows , door frames filling gaps in various designs, installation of window sills, fastening of concrete, wood, metal parts. The foam seals the cracks well, has a pronounced fixing effect.

Installation of flashing is more modern way finishing of plastic windows. Read more about them in our article.

Are your new windows not perfect? What to do, if ? About this in detail in our material on the site.

Material features

Mounting foam for windows is able to penetrate into any cracks, difficult to access places, fill them without leaving openings for cold air. After a few hours, the material will become quite hard and will hold the attached part efficiently.

Foam for the installation of plastic windows has the following features:

  • The material does not rot.
  • It is a good heat and noise insulator.
  • Seals the room well.
  • It is used not only for fixing structures, but also for their insulation.
  • It is a fireproof material.
  • Possesses strong fixation properties.

Varieties of polyurethane foam

Foam for windows comes not only from different manufacturers, but also can have different properties. Despite the same composition, the material can foam better or worse, give out a different volume. These parameters depend on the design of the container in which the foam is enclosed.


The tubing is usually sufficient for the full use of one cylinder. It can be rinsed with acetone if necessary.

When choosing which foam is best for plastic windows, you need to consider the packaging method. If you need to install one or two windows, there is no point in purchasing a professional version and spending money on a gun for it.

At what temperature can you work?

Manufacturers divide products into summer, winter and all-season. Let's take a closer look at the differences.


How to choose polyurethane foam?

Which type of foam is best for windows is difficult to choose. It is necessary to take into account not only the seasonality of use, but also other factors, for example, the following:

  • Declared yield: Most cans are the same size, but may contain different amounts of foam. Most manufacturers are guilty of underfilling the material, so it should be noted that the actual volume will be 10-15 ml less than the declared one. Too light cylinders should not be taken. 750 ml of a substance weighs about 900 grams, if the mass is less, then the substance, respectively, is less.
  • Secondary expansion is also sufficient important indicator... Leaving the balloon, the foam expands - this is the primary expansion. When solidified, the material increases in size many times. Typically, this increase occurs by 20%, but some types of products increase up to 60%. Such foam is not suitable for installing window sills: they will rise a lot.
  • The total foam yield may vary. With questionable products, the pressure in the cylinder drops quickly, and there is a lot of unused foam inside, which is not possible to extract.
  • High-quality foam adheres well to almost any surface, does not roll, and gives minimal shrinkage.

Which polyurethane foam is better is difficult to answer. High-quality products include materials from Macroflex, Brigadier, Titan. However, this is not an exhaustive list: many manufacturers meet quality standards, when choosing, you need to pay attention to the information on the packaging and the weight of the cylinder.

Why do we need platbands and what are the advantages of plastic ones, read our article.

A detailed instruction for the manufacture of slopes for PVC windows with a video is located at the link

It looks beautiful how it will decorate your window so that it is not faceless, read on our website.

How to use the product?

Before starting work, any surface must be prepared. It is required to remove dirt; since the foam interacts with moisture, it is advisable to moisten the surfaces with water, but this can be done only at positive temperatures. Otherwise, this action is undesirable. If the work takes place outdoors, at subzero temperatures, it is necessary to remove ice and snow from the surface.

In order for the foam to willingly leave the cylinder and gain sufficient density, it should be kept in a warm room for about a day before starting work. It is prohibited to artificially heat the cylinder with an open flame. It can explode as it is under pressure.

Foam outlet in different cylinders

Polyurethane foam - best idea to fix the door frame, but using it, you need to firmly fix the frame with supports and leave enough space for the foam to expand, otherwise you can get a deformed structure. You need to use the balloon holding it upside down. Shake well before use.

The decision of which mounting foam to choose for the installation of windows remains with the buyer, the main criterion is a careful study of the packaging. Overly light cylinders should be avoided.

At modern construction, installation or repair, such a multifunctional, easy-to-use, reliable material as polyurethane foam is widely used. Its versatility and convenience greatly simplifies the implementation of construction tasks for both professional builders and ordinary consumers who prefer to do some part of the repair or install door-windows on their own. Foam for installation on the construction market appeared relatively recently and immediately became one of the most popular, demanded and capital-intensive products. However, it cannot be said that it was developed only in our days - the famous German technologist, chemist and industrialist Otto Bayer invented this substance back in 1947 - as a continuation of the development of polyurethanes invented by him. Initially, foamed polyurethane was used in the form of insulation boards for military purposes, as it provides excellent protection against the threat of radioactive radiation. In the 70s, the English company "Royal Chemical Industry" produced the first aerosol can with polyurethane foam, and the use in construction began in Sweden, at the dawn of the 80s of the last century.

Composition and scope

All polyurethane foams on the market contain almost the same composition and are one-component polyurethane foam sealant, enclosed in an aerosol can. In addition to the liquid prepolymer, the can also contains propellant- a pressurized gas displacing the prepolymer. For hardening, the substance does not require mixing with other components - when spraying, the composition inside the can hardens independently (polymerization process), under the action of moisture in the air, forming a porous material resembling foam in properties. The cured foam is well and easily processed for the next construction stages - cut to the desired shape, putty or plaster.

The name itself - "mounting", clearly indicates the area of ​​application - use in the installation or repair of door frames, window sills, window frames and any other wood, concrete, metal or plastic structures. Filling the gaps between structures and openings gives a much greater sealing effect than using cement mortar, tow, mineral or plain wool, foam rubber, moreover, such work requires much less time and is much more convenient. When using foam, no additional tools and devices are required, and energy sources are not needed either.

Properties

The substance can penetrate into the most hard-to-reach places, turning into a fairly solid material in a few hours.

The resulting material is not subject to decay, has good temperature and sound insulation properties, and is also a sealing agent. In addition to filling cracks, cracks and cavities, polyurethane foam is used for insulation, sealing structures, additional fixing of water or heating pipes, electrical wiring, sealing materials when roofing works- roof tiles or corrugated metal sheets. It is also widely used when installing stationary refrigeration units and in machines when transporting frozen food. Parameters such as stickiness and dielectric properties, fire safety are also important (this parameter is determined by the foam flammability class).

  • Sealing (thermal insulation)- allows you to insulate premises by filling gaps - relevant for work premises, warehouses, greenhouses, hangars, garages, etc. Filling gaps and cracks during repair and installation roof structures... Use when installing door and window frames - creating a moisture-resistant, heat-insulating seam. Filling the voids arising during the installation of water or heating pipes that are formed when they pass through walls or floor slabs.
  • Gluing- you can quite confidently fix the door and window blocks even without nails or screws. This property also allows you to fix insulating or insulation materials - for example, when insulating a room with foam, you can glue foam plates to the wall.
  • Soundproofing- sealing of the junction points of air conditioners and hoods, ventilation ducts, gaps between pipes, allows you to reduce the noise level arising from vibrations.

Varieties

As noted above, the composition of the polyurethane foam is practically the same, regardless of the purpose of its use. But there are differences in the design of the cylinders themselves, and on this basis, the foam is divided into professional and household.

Professional- or as the manufacturers themselves call it - pistol. Differs in the presence of a special working valve in the cylinder. To work with such foam, it is necessary to use a special dosing device - assembly gun applicator... Such a pistol is put on a balloon valve intended for it, as a result of which it becomes possible to dispense foam into slots and cavities. This mode will allow much more accurate control of the required amount of foam supply, while a savings of up to 30% is achieved. Also, an important point is the ability to work with a pistol with one hand. The energetic handle and the dispenser trigger make the work much more convenient and, therefore, more productive. The presence of a long, thin metal barrel allows the supply of foam to hard-to-reach places.

Balloon valves can be both threaded - screwed onto the pistol, and "snap-on" in one movement. Recently, almost all major manufacturers of foam for installation are equipping cylinders with a so-called refillable valve, which allows you to tightly close the cylinder with the remaining foam and use it after a while without drying out the contents. In addition, additional convenience is inherent in it - you can work not only holding the balloon upside down, as was customary, but also with the valve up, which often facilitates the work, and in some works sometimes holding the balloon upside down is not only inconvenient, but also simple impossible.

The disadvantage of using an applicator pistol is its considerable price, so there is no point in purchasing it for occasional household work - this device is needed for those who are professionally engaged in such installation works builders and repairmen. In addition, during its operation, additional costs will be required - after each use, the gun must be rinsed with a special solution that cleans the internal cavities of the applicator from the remains of not yet thickened foam. Such a cleaning agent is also pressurized in a cylinder with easy-to-clean nozzles.

Household foam- either semi-professional or manual. Its use does not involve the use of any devices other than the balloon itself. To get started, you need to put on the plastic tube supplied with the cylinder, which has a lever - adapter, on the valve. With a small amount of work, this option is convenient and practical. As a rule, it is used in cases where the expansion of the foam is not too important a factor - in ventilation wells, interpanel seams, installation of door and window frames.

If not the entire volume of the cylinder has been used, the tube can be removed, rinsed with a solvent (for example, acetone) and reused after a while.

Usage temperature

  • Summer foam- at the temperature indicated on the spray cans from 5C to 35C, the foam must be used at the temperature of the treated surfaces within the same limits. However, this temperature limit speaks only of the temperature during work, and the temperature resistance of the frozen foam is in a much wider range - from -50C to + 90C - this applies to both summer and winter foam.
  • Winter foam- the working temperature range is from -18C (some types -10C) and up to + 35C. "Winter" options in their composition have special additives and additives that allow polymerization at a low percentage of humidity, since the frosty air is much drier than at warm temperatures. Moistening surfaces in frost is ineffective - water quickly freezes and becomes ice. It should be borne in mind that the already expanded foam depends on the external temperature - the lower it is, the less expansion is. For example, 300 ml of liquid foam at + 20C will expand to 30 liters, at zero - up to 25 liters, at -5C - it will be about 20 liters, and at -10 - only 15 liters.
  • All season foam- appeared relatively recently, so not all manufacturers can offer it. It has best properties summer and winter foam, providing, thanks to the improved formula, a large volume of foam at the exit, fast polymerization and the ability to work with it at -10C without warming up the cylinder.

Polyurethane foam requirements

  • Guaranteed declared yield- the competition for the market is often conducted by methods that are not entirely justified for the consumer - even manufacturers of high-quality and well-proven foam are trying to reduce the price of their products due to banal underfilling. For example, with the declared volume of 45 liters, only 37 actually come out, and out of 65 liters - no more than 50. Therefore, it is advisable to control the weight of the balloon - with a volume of liquid substance of 750 ml, the balloon should weigh 850-920 grams.
  • Secondary expansion- also quite an important indicator, especially when installing window sills, doors and windows.
    The fact is that the expansion of the foam occurs in two stages - when the liquid polyurethane leaves the cylinder, the compressed gas expands, equalizing in pressure with the environment, and expands the pores of the composite, turning it into foam with a much larger volume. This is the so-called primary expansion... Then, the foam in contact with moisture provokes a chemical reaction, as a result of which it hardens. But at the same time, CO2-carbon dioxide is released, creating overpressure in the pores of the foam, and its volume gradually increases over a fairly long period of time - even up to several days, although usually they write 24 hours. This is the secondary expansion of the foam. When installing window and door frames, the percentage increase in the secondary expansion in relation to the primary should not exceed 15-25%. But some manufacturers, saving at the expense of the main components, release products with a secondary increase of 50-60%. What this threatens - it's easy to guess - with door frames concave inward, deformed windows and bulging window sills. Therefore, it is very desirable to purchase a proven foam.
  • Full foam outlet from the cylinder- this indicator characterizes the filling of the balloon with the "honest" volume of the composite. If there is underfilling, then during operation the pressure drops rapidly - as a result, there is still foam inside, but it is already impossible to use it - low pressure is not able to squeeze it out from there. As a result, not only the foam that "went into business" is paid for, but also the remaining foam in the cylinder.
  • Approximate foam consumption can be estimated based on the following data - 300ml of the composite gives about 30l of foam - with this volume you can "foam" a standard door frame with 3-5cm slots. 500 ml of composite will yield up to 35-40 liters - this is enough for one and a half boxes under the same conditions. 750ml - 45-50L output - enough to handle two or more standard door frames.
  • A few more requirements by the quality of the foam - it should adhere well to surfaces without flowing off them, the degree of shrinkage should be small (shrinkage is a slight decrease in volume after final solidification). Also, be elastic, do not crack or crumble after hardening, especially in frosty weather.

Application rules

Training. Polyurethane foam sealant polymerizes using air humidity, so it will be advisable to wet the surfaces with water before using it - the setting time will decrease, and the expansion of the foam will increase. If the work is carried out in winter time- remove ice and frost from surfaces.

Immediately before use, the container must be shaken vigorously for about a minute, and in cold weather and heated to room temperature, but without using an open flame. These measures will help increase foam yield and density.

When installing and sealing window and door frames, you need to remember about a two-, three-fold increase in the volume of the sealant, therefore, to prevent deformation of the door or window blocks, they must be reinforced with spacers without removing them until the foam finally hardens.

Usage. When spraying, the cylinder should be kept upside down so that the composite is near the valve, otherwise, as a result of the release of compressed air, a decrease in pressure may occur and a significant part of the foam will remain in the cylinder.

The seam must be filled from the bottom up, moving the balloon evenly, while filling the volume of the void by no more than half. If the cavities are more than 50mm, they need to be filled not in one go, but in several steps, waiting for each layer to harden.

You need to know that although foam has a rather strong adhesive property, it is not suitable for working with polyethylene and silicone - it will not stick to these materials.

End of work. If foam gets on clothes, objects or hands, it can be washed off or special means, or just acetone.

The initial hardening of the foam surface occurs after 20 minutes - you can already touch it. But it will finally solidify no earlier than after 7-8 hours - this largely depends on the ambient humidity and temperature.

After complete drying, you can cut off excess foam fragments with a knife, after which the surface must be protected from external influences, in particular from sunlight, - it can be plastered, putty or painted.

Precautionary measures

Liquid foam can irritate the skin, respiratory tract or eyes. Therefore, when working, you need to use gloves and goggles, with poor ventilation and large volumes of work - respirators, since the concentration of vapors can be increased.

Whereas earlier they used to fill building cavities cement mortar or tape mineral wool, today the old materials have been replaced by polyurethane foam. It is much more convenient and much more practical. The foam is easy to apply, and at the same time is able to fill the smallest crevices and cracks. It is easy to use as it is immediately ready for use. It is distinguished by good heat and sound insulation properties. And due to its astringent properties, foam is even used for gluing various insulation materials on walls or ceilings.

After the door frame is already installed in the opening and adjusted vertically and horizontally,. First, you need to protect the door frame, as the foam that gets on the surface will then be very difficult to remove. You can also try to remove "fresh" foam with a solvent or some alcohol-containing liquid. But the hardened foam can only be removed mechanically. Therefore, the box, and, if necessary, the door, is pasted over with masking tape or film, and the work itself is carried out with gloves.

Due to the ability of the foam to increase in volume by 50-250%, the opposite beams of the door frame are reinforced with spacers in advance. If this is not done, then the pressure created by the foam may well lead to deformation of the door frame.

Before use, the can with foam must be shaken (30-60 seconds), and the outer side of the door frame and the opening itself must be moistened with water. Moisturizing will improve the adhesion of the foam and also accelerate its hardening. Only the main thing is not to overdo it with water, otherwise you can achieve the exact opposite effect. And it is important to know that while working with the cylinder it should be kept upside down at all times. This is done so that the lighter gas displacing the foam mixes better with all the components of the cylinder.

Polyurethane foam adheres well to almost all types building materials(stone, concrete, plaster, wood, metal, glass), so no problems usually arise. Difficulties will appear only when you have to deal with chemical materials (polypropylene, polyethylene, silicone, Teflon), with which the foam does not adhere. When working with it, it is desirable that the air temperature be in the range from +5 to + 30 ° С. But in the cold season, you can use special foams designed for use in winter period(up to −10 ° С). Also, when working with foam, it should be borne in mind that with an air humidity of less than 35%, it will not be able to harden.

To be safe from possible distortions of the box (when the foam hardens), polyurethane foam can be applied in two stages. First, it is applied "point by point", and then (after 1-3 hours) all the remaining cavities are filled. If the distance between door frame and the opening is very narrow, for more convenient filling of this space, the end of the spray tube is pre-flattened. And if the distance, on the contrary, is too large (from 8-9 cm), it is advisable to lay this space suitable material, and only then fill it with foam.

Given the foam's ability to expand, voids and cracks are filled only to one third of their depth. In this case, it is better to start filling vertical cavities from the bottom up. So she will create her own support. The time it takes for the foam to fully cure varies considerably and takes approximately 3 to 24 hours. More precise information about the drying period can be found in the instructions for a specific type of polyurethane foam. After the final hardening of the foam, remove its excess and proceed to the next stage of door installation (fixing the platbands, if necessary, "dobors" and seals).

Although polyurethane foam is resistant to mechanical stress and has many advantages, it also has its own minor disadvantages. So, it is destroyed by direct sunlight and absorbs moisture well enough. Therefore, it is important to provide mounting foam with reliable waterproofing protection, and, if necessary, additionally "hide" from the influence of sunlight. For these purposes, you can use paint, putty or sealant.