A hole in a tile may be needed for a variety of reasons. Sometimes you need to run a plumbing, hang a shelf or a heated towel rail on the wall, and often you need to install an outlet or a hook to place essentials.
To carry out this procedure successfully, you should familiarize yourself with the basic recommendations, and also follow the procedure exactly. Then the action will be carried out successfully, and the tiles will not suffer.
Content of the article:
Before starting work, it is advisable to practice so as not to spoil the already laid tiles. It is necessary to find pieces of a cable that is already unusable and make the necessary holes first on it. When the actions have been rehearsed, you can perform the work on the required surface.
It is important to pay special attention to the correct markup. You can mark points for the subsequent formation of a hole using a marker or felt-tip pen. Sometimes problems arise with this aspect. It is very difficult to mark the tile so that it will last for a long time.
It is especially difficult to work in this way with glazed tiles. It is easier to mark holes by sticking a piece of masking tape over the area to be applied. A symbol is applied to it. Then all the markup will be perfectly marked.
Scotch tape can also be used for other purposes. On the surface on which it is pasted this material, drilling is carried out with increased ease. The drill will definitely not slide off the area to which it is pointed.
This method of holding the drill in the correct position is safer for the integrity of the tile than trying to punch the base, since when using a sharp dowel and nail there is always the risk of chips and unnecessary scratches.
Sometimes it is necessary to drill holes in a tile that is not yet bonded to the surface. In this case, you should prepare a comfortable and reliable surface in advance. It is necessary to check in advance that there is no vibration of the structure.
A material is placed under the tile that does not block the work of the drill. Often these are unnecessary sheets of wood, plywood, or drywall. The tile must be in close contact with the surface. The presence of devices that can make it unstable, which will lead to deformation and irreversible damage to the material, must not be allowed.
The drill often becomes hot during prolonged operation. If the hole is overheated, there is a risk of cracking. To avoid this, you should not put in a lot of effort when working.
You need to spend more time creating the hole. When the drill quickly overheats, action should be taken to cool it down. You can dip it in machine oil for a few minutes.
If work is carried out on horizontal surfaces, local cooling is undertaken. For this, a hole is drilled in a separate block, which is filled with ice water. If necessary, lower the drill there.
If standard drill coolants do not help, more automated methods can be used. Some craftsmen acquire a special tool. A pressure vessel is often used. It provokes overpressure when using a hand pump. With the help of an equipped jig, the liquid reaches the drill and quickly cools it.
Often, craftsmen prefer to use drills that provide a percussion function. When working with tiles, this function must be disabled. The drill is invariably guided to the tile in a perpendicular position. If no special supporting devices are provided for this, the master must independently control the maintenance of the optimal level.
When drilling ceramic tiles, in particular when making the widest holes, very small but sharp residues of material are often thrown off. In order not to run into these elements, it is necessary to wear protective elements for hands and eyes, that is, use thick gloves and glasses.
The location of the hole is selected. It is advisable to make all lines symmetrical and retreat as far as possible from the edge of the tile, avoiding cracking. Next, a step-by-step procedure is performed:
When selecting best place to create holes in the tile, you must follow the rule that prohibits working with a drill near the edge of the tile. Maintain a distance of 1.5 cm or more from the edge.
During the drilling of the tile, the device must not be set at the highest speed. The range of 100-400 rpm in 60 seconds is allowed. To determine the required speed, you should first practice making holes on the sample material, evaluating the power and thickness of the drill, as well as the density of the tile itself.
Do not set the punch mode. If you neglect this rule, the tile structure will quickly crack, which will lead to the need to replace it. The device can be rearranged to this mode only after a hole has been made in the wall structure. This simplifies and speeds up the work.
It is not recommended to use a mechanical drill. With its help, holes are made quite difficult and for a long time. Even the creation of one of them takes a lot of time and effort, which is why the work is unnecessarily delayed. It is also most difficult to keep the drill exactly perpendicular to the tile while working.
Swinging and unnecessary turns of the drill is strictly prohibited, as this will inevitably lead to excessive space and damage to the structure, which will make the end result not aesthetically pleasing. In order not to spoil the tiles, you should use a drill tripod.
When drilling a hole between the tiles in the area of the seam connecting this element, do not go over the edge of the tile. If you touch a piece of the structure, it will crack and break off from the base, which will damage the result of the work.
Sometimes special drills are used to drill especially fragile varieties of tiles, which are not able to create a hole in the base of the wall. In the process, you have to use two drills.
The first is only needed to create a hole in the tile, and the second for its further formation. It is impossible for the second stage to select a drill that is larger in diameter than the previous one, otherwise there is a risk of destruction of the tile.
To successfully drill the tiles, you should use a suitable drill. If slight slippage is noticed, it is advisable to apply a template and drill along it, guiding the centralized drill.
Often, the master is given the task of drilling the already laid out tile, so the responsibility increases, since damage to the entire masonry cannot be allowed. When the correct drill is selected, all precautions are taken and the work is carried out carefully, a positive result is ensured.
Imagine this situation: the master has just laid ceramic tiles- and you seemed to breathe a sigh of relief - the renovation is over. However, a day later, we saw a stunning hanging cabinet or a new mirror in a furniture store, as if created for your extraordinary interior. And if you can think of something else with a mirror (for example, stick a mirror to the wall), then with a cabinet it is not so simple. Joyful emotions from a successful purchase may well be replaced by disappointment if you do not know how to properly drill a tile on the wall. Indeed, with inept technique, it is quite possible to ruin not only the cabinet, but also the already beautifully laid tiles. We reveal all the secrets of the correct drilling technique in our step-by-step instructions.
It's hard to say anything bad about ceramic tiles: tiles can withstand the most difficult for decades temperature conditions and is not at all afraid of moisture, while retaining color, gloss and surface hardness well. However, this is the main difficulty of processing it with a drill - you will have to try hard so that the tile does not crack.
From here, you can come to a logical conclusion: you should not be too frivolous about drilling tiles on the wall. This is fraught with bad results and general dissatisfaction with the work done, since in some cases it is not possible to replace damaged tiles without loss of quality. Discontinued, for example, a specific collection. Or the new batch of tiles is tilted towards a darker tone. Of course, you can always find an alternative, but any alternative is a compromise with your vision. perfect interior... You can also completely abandon the tile and use alternative options finishes. More about this in the article: "How can you decorate the walls in the bathroom except for tiles." 
Of course, without quality tool and auxiliary materials, you will not succeed. Therefore, one of the main stages of our instruction is its thorough preparation. So, what do you need to "arm" with in order to get a great result?
In fact, your main trump card in the "fight" with unyielding tiles. The more drilling modes this "magic" tool supports, the better: a wide selection assumes different approaches to solving the problem - while a minimal set seriously limits the range of your actions. 
We should also mention the good old manual drill, which is activated by the force applied from your side. It turns out that such a tool is best suited to flawlessly drilling a hole in a tile on a wall - this way you can find the exact number of turns required for this, without the risk of getting an annoying crack on the tile surface. 
If you don't have a drill in your arsenal, it's better to buy one. And if for some reason it does not work out, then you need to work with the puncher carefully, on low speed
with extreme pressure on the tile. Your task is to reduce the vibration that comes from this tool during operation. 
The overall quality of the result depends on which drill you choose for the tile. Experienced craftsmen recommend the following options:
It is important to remember that the diameter of the drill should correspond to the size of the dowel you are using, and the diameter of the drill should be slightly smaller than the drill. Otherwise, all the work will go to waste - and the acquired locker runs the risk of sagging no longer than the evening. 
Also prepare for work:
Prepare and workplace: Protect the floor from inevitable dust by covering it with a protective film. If possible, remove everything unnecessary within a radius of several meters to create the most comfortable conditions for drilling. 
It would seem that there is something to drill? However, such frivolity sometimes plays a cruel joke with the "craftsman". We love good jokes, so we recommend that you take all drilling stages seriously.
After the desired hole has been made, you can safely remove the tape or plaster and hammer in the dowel. Of course, you need to do this with a hammer. 
Sometimes it becomes necessary to make large enough holes in the tiles. In this case, instead of a drill, you need to use crowns. They can help you quickly and efficiently make a hole in the wall. up to 15 centimeters
... There are both victorious and diamond crowns. The advantage of the latter is obvious: high speed drilling, safety. However, the price of many scares away and makes them be content with consumables from the victory. 
Some recommendations from experienced craftsmen can be very helpful if you do not know how to drill ceramic tiles on the wall correctly, or if you are doing it for the first time.
How flawlessly you can drill a hole in ceramic tiles on the wall, the masters tell in the following videos. The approaches, as we can see, are different, but the result is always pleasing to the eye.
Now you should definitely not have any questions about how to drill a tile on the wall. By and large, the end result depends primarily on your endurance. No matter how hot your temperament is, the main thing in drilling tiles is composure, measuredness and confidence. In this case, you can get the holes you want and keep the laid tiles intact. Well, hang the purchased locker safely, of course. After all, everything was started for him, right? 
Photo: vk.com
Ceramic tiles are durable, moisture resistant, practical and beautiful material. Often there are situations when it is necessary to drill a through hole in it, for example, for hanging mirrors, shelves or for laying communication networks, installing sockets and faucets.
Despite the seeming simplicity of the process, this is actually a difficult operation. Let's consider how to drill a tile so that its surface does not crack.
In contact with
How can you drill ceramic tiles? This usually requires either a drill or a screwdriver. At the same time, experts recommend using a power tool with different spindle rotation modes, because at high speeds there is a high probability that the ceramic tile will crack.
Newbies in the renovation business often wonder how to drill a tile with a conventional drill.
In fact, drills are not used for this operation, with which metal or wooden crafts... In their production, tool steel is used without reinforcement of the working edges.
Sharpening of the latter was carried out at an acute angle. But the basic principle of drilling a tile is, first of all, the abrasion of the upper glazed layer, which is slippery and quite durable. This requires abrasives applied to the edges of the drill, which are at an obtuse angle.
Let's figure out what kind of drill you can drill into ceramic tiles. Tool manufacturers today produce special drills for tiles, ceramics and glass, the edges of which are spear-shaped, which is why they are called spear-shaped. The tool is divided into two groups based on the material for edging.
Drilling large holes in ceramic tiles is usually required for electrical outlets, water and sewer pipes. For this, two types of cutting devices are used - crowns and ballerinas.
This is a cutting tool in the form of a cylinder, one of the edges of which is sharpened at an angle in the form of a blade. Such an edge is usually hardened by spraying a harder material. On this basis, they are divided into three groups.
Important! Manufacturers offer two designs of crowns: with a central drill, which will fix the instrument on the plane of the veneering material, and without it. The first option is more expensive, but more effective. It simplifies the drilling process and increases the speed of work.
This cutting attachment consists of three parts: a lance drill, a cutter (one or two), and a bracket. A bracket is put on the drill holder perpendicularly, which is fixed with a screw (bolt).
A cutter is attached to the bracket itself, which can be moved along the bar. There is a scale on it. It is in this way that the diameter of the future hole is established.
Manufacturers offer ballerinas with a rigidly mounted cutter. Therefore, the tool is matched to the hole diameter. This is important nuance therein. how to properly drill a tile.
One of the varieties of ballerinas is the design with two cutters on one bracket. They are located on opposite edges of the drill and are set at the same distance from the drill shaft. With this tool, you can drill holes in ceramic tiles twice as fast. Videos will demonstrate this process.
Here are the basic rules on how to drill a tile so that it does not crack. It is impossible to overheat the drill or crown, as well as the tile, because heat- this is the reason for the cracking of the facing material. First, the glaze will begin to crack, then the tile itself. Therefore, it is recommended that the drilling site be treated with water during operation.
It is very important to correctly orient yourself regarding the pressure on the drill or screwdriver. A little pressure will lead to an increase in the time of the operation being performed. With an increase in the pressure force, there is a risk of cracks appearing on the tile finish.
Therefore, you have to gain experience. A large number of drilled holes in a tile - this is an increase in the quality and speed of work with the following panels.
How to properly drill a hole in a ceramic tile? It must be done between the tiles exactly in the middle of the seam. Do not use reverse when working with tiles. It is also forbidden to turn on the shock mode.
If a hole is drilled through a ceramic tile under a plastic dowel, into which a screw will be screwed, then the operation must be carried out in two stages. First, a hole is drilled in the tile with a spear drill.
Then it changes to the usual one, which is used for concrete structures... The last to be drilled is the wall under the tiles. The second stage can be carried out with the impact mode of the drill.
The most difficult thing is to make sure that the drill does not slide over the glazed surface. finishing material... Previously, craftsmen used this method: before drilling a hole in a tile, they freed the drilling point from slippery glaze with a sharp tool or object.
Another method is used today:
In the same way, a cutout is made using a ballerina or a crown. The main thing is that the fixing drill does not slip off the surface of the tile. As for crowns without a central drill, you have to draw a circle of the required diameter with a marker and adjust the tool to the drawn contour by eye.
The article provides basic tips on how to properly drill a tile. Videos will help you understand this issue deeper. If you ignore these rules, then cracks will appear on the cladding. Therefore, it is very important to strictly adhere to the drilling technology.
After tiling a bathroom or kitchen with tiles, minor work remains: hang shelves and rails, fix lamps, install sockets. However, for all this, it is necessary to prepare holes in the finish, which in the case of fragile tiles is not such an easy task. We will tell you how and with what to drill a ceramic tile so as not to split it.
It is necessary to drill the tile very carefully - it does not have the same viscosity as metal, and does not have bonds between the grains, which are easily broken when working on concrete. Ceramic tiles are monolithic in structure, and any point load can lead to cracking. Therefore, the tool should be selected very carefully.
When working with tiles, it is not even the power tool itself that is important, but the drills that you use. For ceramics, special drills with diamond or corundum are produced. Some craftsmen accept the use of a victorious drill, but its tip is not strong enough to make holes quickly. However, when it comes to just a couple of sockets for dowels, there is no point in overpaying for professional diamond consumables.
The shape of the drills for ceramics is varied enough to find a suitable bit:
They look like a triangular wedge with two or four diverging blades. For the preparation of landing nests for dowels with a diameter of 4-12 mm, they are quite enough, moreover, this is one of the few types of drills that can cope with ceramics even with victorious tips. The "spears" are relatively inexpensive, they do not slip on the glaze, but they work well only at low speeds and still quickly become blunt. However, their low price quite reconciles with this.
They are hollow tubes of different diameters (from 5 to 75 mm) with continuous spraying along the cutting edge. It is easier and more convenient to work with them - due to the large contact area, such drills fit exactly into the thickness of the tile and do not leave chips. However, you will have to purchase a separate nozzle for each hole. the right size, and the spraying on them is erased rather quickly. When using tubular drills, the rotational speed should not exceed 500 rpm - they are expensive, and due to burning of the grains with excessive heating, they can soon become unusable.
Universal drills with which you can make holes of different diameters from 30 to 90 mm in diameter. They have a central wedge-shaped spear and a stem adjustable in length, on which an additional blade is located. The disadvantage of the ballerina is that she literally begins to dance on the tile, trying to pull the drill out of her hands - it will take a lot of experience to drill a hole with her without breaking the tile. In addition, the blade knocks out rather large fragments, leaving far from ideal edges.
They are used to get a hole in the tile. correct shape and large diameter up to 160 mm (for example, for a socket, switch or communication outlet). These are wide cups, similar to tubular drills, all with the same corundum or diamond coating on the edge and a centering tip in the middle.
Working with crowns requires special precision and correct installation cutting edge - strictly in the same plane with the tile. But first, the central bit is drilled into the thickness of the tile. This creates a rigid axis of rotation for the cup and aligns it parallel to the facing surface.
At the end of the work, the round tile is removed from the wall along with the crown. If it sits tightly on the solution, you can pry it off with a screwdriver or knock it out with a chisel, being careful not to damage the rest of the finish.
To cut a custom-sized hole in a tile, square or rectangular, it is easier to use a hand-held engraver by installing a rotary cutter on it. Cutting wheels with small diameters from 18 to 50 mm with a diamond unsegmented edge are suitable.
The most difficult and crucial stage when drilling ceramics is the first penetration through the glaze layer. The surface of the tile is highly durable, and the drill can slip off the smooth surface at any time. To prevent this from happening, the masters resort to various tricks.
The easiest and most reliable way is to glue the tile section with masking tape. On it, you can make markings for the future hole, especially if the tiles are dark in color. This option is suitable for working with ceramics on vertical surfaces. You can also use a clerical proofreader by making a bold mark on the tile with liquid. After drying, it will turn into a rough spot that prevents the attachment from sliding off.
Drill floor tiles not often, but if there is a need for this, it is better to use a factory or home-made conductor. To make it, you can take a simple wooden block or a thick piece of plywood and make a hole in it of the same diameter as the drill for ceramics. This socket will act as a stop for the drill and will help keep it strictly perpendicular to the floor. Of course, loose wood will not stop the drill, but you will feel if you start to tilt the tool to the side and you can align it in time.
The first drilling through the glaze is done at high RPM by lightly touching the tip. After that, you will need to stop and turn the drill or screwdriver to the minimum speed. When using tubular nozzles, they are first drilled with a slight deviation of the axis from the vertical - only after that the cutting edge is set strictly perpendicular to the facing.
Of course, the easiest way is to drill holes in a tile that has not yet been glued, laying it on an ideal flat surface, for example, on a chipboard or drywall sheet. So the risk of damage to the tile is reduced significantly. But even on the finished cladding, you can make neat holes for fasteners if you use a low-speed power tool and the right drills.
