Sooner or later, every homeowner starts thinking about expanding their living space. And here a lot of questions arise, the main one of which is how to do it? Nowadays, the range of materials on the construction markets is quite impressive, which means that there are plenty of options for how to increase housing. Today we will look at some of them. We will find out what an extension can be (projects and photo examples will help with this), and also try to understand how difficult such a construction can be. It will not hurt to learn and do this kind of work on your own.
On the Internet you can find various projects outbuildings to the house. And before starting such a construction, you should familiarize yourself with them. This will allow you to adopt any solutions, and then add your own. Only then can you get a unique structure that will not only be, but also increase your living space.
Many may say that such a construction is too laborious and almost impossible to do with their own hands, but this is a delusion. With the right approach and study of all the nuances, this is not so difficult, although you will have to face some difficulties. But, as they say, the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing. But as a reward, you can get not only a do-it-yourself extension to wooden house but also satisfaction from the work performed. In addition, the funds saved on remuneration of specialists will not be superfluous.
Consider different options extensions in general terms, as well as examples of similar works, done with their own hands by ordinary home craftsmen without any experience.
Such a building is quite relevant for summer residents who like to sit in the evenings over a cup of tea with family or friends. After all, it is much more pleasant to communicate in the open air than in a closed room. In addition, it is possible that the veranda will be thought out in such a way that it would be possible to install. This will protect it from snow, as well as add warmth in the house itself.
Another plus of such a building is that on winter period you can take it there. In this case, it can even be used as an additional room. But this is more suitable not for summer residents, but for owners in the private residential sector who live in the premises for a whole year.
The material for such buildings is most often wood. Sometimes, if there is such an opportunity, it is done on those sides that do not adjoin the house. We offer you to see several photos of wooden verandas attached to the house:
Looking at these photos of wooden verandas attached to the house, it seems that they were built by professionals, but they are not. Today we will definitely consider how you can do this with your own hands.
It should start with the fact that many are confused. But the differences are fundamental. The fact is that the veranda is always attached to the house, but the terrace opposite is located and does not adjoin the house. In addition, terraces are often without roofs and walls. At their core, they are open. Hence the consequence - they are built more often from more durable material which tolerates atmospheric precipitation.
Of course, there are options for adding terraces to wooden ones, but this is rather an exception. Moreover, if you go back just a few decades ago, then at that time the terrace was considered exactly an open (without a roof) area of natural or artificial origin.
Now many people confuse these two concepts, calling the verandas adjoining the house as terraces on stilts, but still this is not historically true. Although time does not stand still, a person tries to make his life more comfortable. This is probably why they called the terrace with a roof adjacent to the house. After all, it stands on stilts, while the veranda must necessarily have a foundation.
Here are some examples of terraces in photo illustrations:
An extension to the house is a very good solution. Indeed, in this case, in the cold season, there will be no need to go out into the cold to reach it. However, there are also pitfalls here. In the garage, you need an ideal one, which will not allow carbon monoxide to penetrate into the home. And the fact that the car will start in the garage for sure, no one doubts. Here are some photos of the garages attached to the house:
Adding a garage to a house is not an easy task, but quite feasible. You just need to understand how capital it will be. Do you need a foundation, what will be the floor and walls? Most often, a foam block serves as a material for such buildings. But many, as a garage attached to the house, use several racks from a bar, on which it rests. Thus, although the car is not protected from snow and rain in the wind, the roof will save it from the sun.
An annex to a wooden house as a living space, or - this is perhaps the most common type of all of the above. This is not surprising, because not everyone has the opportunity to buy land, build a new large and spacious one. And the construction of an additional room is possible even for a relatively small area... But here the situation is a little more complicated than with the construction of a veranda or carport. Do not forget that the building should not only be capital, but also enough so that you can live in it with comfort.
Important! When erecting such an outbuilding, it is necessary to carefully study the soil, calculate the foundation that can support the weight of the structure, as well as draw up a detailed project. Do not forget that such a capital structure must be registered with the cadastral chamber. Otherwise, you can not only lose money on fines, but also receive a notification about the demolition of an illegal building.
And yet, additions to the country house are a good solution. After all, no one bothers to collect all the necessary papers on time. And the additional living quarters never bothered anyone. In addition, it will not require too much money.
Making an extension to the house with your own hands, although difficult, is quite possible. But this will require some knowledge. The main thing that needs to be decided before taking on such work is what material the structure will be from. The material can be the following:
Important! Regardless of what material it was decided to build a residential extension in the country house, it must be firmly fixed to the house itself. Otherwise, the building will not have the required strength. In this case, there is a risk of collapse, and this is already life-threatening.
Let's try to figure out each of these materials.
An extension to the house is convenient in that it requires the lowest costs and is easy to do with your own hands. And there is no need to work with a large number of people - two people are enough. But a foundation is still needed.
It is also convenient to make a frame extension to the house due to the absence of the need to hire a designer who would calculate everything. This is another piece of budget savings. Of course, the annex will need to be insulated with high quality, but with a huge assortment on the shelves these days, it will be quite easy to do this.
The most difficult stage in such a construction will be the construction of the foundation. Well, to assemble the frame, fix it to the wall of the house and sheathe it is already much easier. Today there are more simple ways... There is a special material on sale. It is oriented particle boards... Moreover, with their help, the so-called, the two sides of which are OSB, and between them a layer of foam, is produced at the plant. This material is quite durable and strong, besides, it has another important advantage - it is an excellent insulation. Thus, the home craftsman can only assemble a strong frame and sheathe it with similar material.
It is important in such cases and exterior decoration, because the durability of the frame extension to the wooden house largely depends on it. You can read about such work in our other articles. And now we invite the dear reader to look at several photo examples of such extensions made by home craftsmen:
When planning an outbuilding, it should be understood that both its foundation and its service life depend on how it will be designed. After all, no one will start construction with the expectation that in a couple of years the living room will need to be demolished. Also, do not think that you can not "bother" with the design of such buildings. This is not a shed or closet, which means that everything should be taken care of in advance.
Let's start with the fact that the best option (of course, with a low weight) would be a pile-screw. It will be a cheaper and not too labor-intensive choice. Yes, and drive the piles into the ground on required depth you can do it yourself using special equipment or even manually. The main task here is to calculate the load on each pile to select their number and diameter.
Important information! When constructing a pile-screw foundation, it should be understood that the supports must pass under each wall. If there is a partition in the room, then they are also required under it.
You should also pay attention to the lower crown. It must be made of more durable material. Ideally, if it is made of logs. Do not think that for the installation of an extension from a bar to log house only 3 walls are needed - this is a delusion. 4 walls are also being built, because a joint one is also necessary here. It makes sense to pay special attention to the fastening between common walls... It depends on this whether gaps will appear in this place over time.
Here are some photos of examples of such solutions:
This is probably the most common option. After all, the foam block has a relatively low cost, it can provide quite good insulation (in comparison with a brick), and the installation speed is considerable. But when compared with a bar, the foam block has a big drawback - it requires a fairly strong foundation. And already the pile-screw is indispensable here.
A foundation for an extension from a foam block to a wooden house is necessary. The best option there will be a grillage pile foundation. This means that the cost of the foundation automatically increases significantly.
Installation of extensions to houses from gas silicate blocks is also quite common. But some home craftsmen do not understand the difference between them and foam blocks. It's pretty simple. a little heavier and more expensive than foam concrete, but at the same time its strength is much higher. In addition, it does not require adhesion from concrete mortar (special glue is used). As a result, there are practically no seams, which contributes to greater thermal insulation, and hence lower heating costs in the future.
Important! Regardless of what is chosen as a building material, you should consider the communication systems in the future living room. Indeed, if this is not done, you will have to gouge holes for heating, gouge walls for electrical wiring. Without this, there can be no question of any kind of accommodation, all the more comfortable.
We offer the dear reader a few examples of such buildings:
The main difference here is that a fourth wall is not required. This means that three common ones are quite enough. The foundation can be either tape or columnar. And you can choose any material for construction - it all depends on the wishes and capabilities of the home master.
Clutch with load-bearing wall at home with the help. When building an extension to a house made of brick or concrete, a reinforcement coupling is also often used. The load-bearing wall is drilled with a hammer drill, while the drill should be slightly smaller in diameter than the rod, for a more rigid connection. After that, a piece of reinforcement (it should not be smooth) is hammered into the drilled hole up to half, and its second part is laid into the joint of foam blocks or bricks.
Important information! You should not start construction if the house is quite old. This is irrational, because the brick softens over time, which will have a bad effect on the adhesion to the new structure. In addition, the drilling of the wall, as well as the new building, creates an additional load on it.
Perhaps the dear reader will be interested in looking at some of the solutions of home craftsmen:
The foundation is the base that supports the entire structure. So, you should treat its device with great responsibility. Most simple solution with a low weight of the building, there will be a pile-screw base device. To do this, at a certain distance from each other, piles are screwed into the ground, which will bear the main load.
If the construction is heavier, the strip foundation will have to be poured. In this case, the piles also do not interfere, they will give additional strength. But the most durable of all types of foundations can be called a pile-grillage foundation. For its device, you need to dig a trench around the perimeter of future walls. After that, already along this trench, screw piles are driven or wells are drilled into which the reinforcing cage is lowered and poured with concrete. This is done in such a way that their upper edge is just above the ground level. And at the last stage, the formwork is installed and poured with concrete. For more details on how to make a foundation for an extension to a house or for a bath, see one of our articles.
Before pouring the foundation for an extension to the house, you should decide whether the ready-made solution will be ordered and imported ready-made or made independently. In the latter case, precise calculations of the constituents are required for the required strength.
Most simple option there will be a shed roof device for an extension to the house. This option is easy to implement and requires the lowest cost. However, this work also has its own nuances. If you compare it with the gable, then the simpler ones do not retain heat so well.
When arranging a veranda, the three-slope option is often used for an extension to the house, but such work is rather complicated. If you have some skills and knowledge of carpentry, then the home craftsman will be quite capable of it.
Important! The roof should be thought out so that snow can easily roll off it, but you should not forget about safety. After all, the accumulated snowdrift can fall on a person. That is why they try to make the slope more abruptly. In this case, the accumulation of snow will be small, and its fall is not dangerous.
If home master I'm not sure if he knows how to make a roof on an extension to a house, and will be able to do it, it is better to seek help from specialists.
Let's try in general terms to explain all the stages of building a veranda on a site adjacent to the house. More detailed instructions we will analyze for each type of buildings in the following reviews. Here's how to add an extension to your home:
| Illustration | Actions performed |
 | First of all, we start with the foundation. In our case, this is a well. It is lowered metal pipe, which is filled with concrete. The depth is about 1.7 m. |
 | The distance between the piles must be calculated. In our case, the weight of the veranda will be quite small, and therefore the distance can be made larger. |
 | On the piles, we assemble a frame from metal beams, which will play the role of the first crown that takes on the main load. |
 | Channels are welded together. In this case, the seam must be very strong. |
 | We also took care of communications. The drain of water from the sink in the house turned out to be exactly in this place. Well, we can handle this too. |
 | The holes in the channel are necessary for fastening the timber on which the entire structure will be built. |
 | We lay the timber around the perimeter and fasten it. You can start building the main supports and the roof. |
 | Having assembled the main frame from the timber, we reinforce it with transverse beams. In their role we have, 50 mm thick. |
 | We put the boards supporting the roof in pairs and tighten them together. |
 | It should look something like this. It should be noted that the boards supporting the roof also add strength to the frame. They are fixed to the main beams just by means of tie rods. |
 | The roof can be closed with corrugated board. It is quite resistant to all weather conditions. |
 | The diagonal board plays a rather important role - it prevents the building from tilting due to the supporting beam of the frame. In our case, the usual railings are made, but it is fashionable to sheathe or de-glaze the building. |
 | Here, the diagonals are decorative, and therefore made of thinner boards. |
In general terms, the answer to the question of how to attach an extension to a house looks like this.
It is unlikely that it will be possible to build an extension to the house inexpensively when contacting specialists. But for general information it does not hurt to consider the prices for such services using the example of various verandas:
| Types of verandas | Cost of work, rub. for 1m 2 |
| Open annex | from 8,000 |
| Frame extension with insulation 50mm | from 9,000 |
| Frame extension with insulation 100mm | from 10 500 |
| Frame extension with insulation 150mm | from 11 500 |
| Extension made of profiled timber 90 × 140mm | from 10 500 |
| Extension made of profiled timber 140 × 140mm | from 12 500 |
For those who still doubt that without special knowledge and skills, a rather beautiful extension to the house can be made - photo examples of verandas and terraces made by ordinary home craftsmen. Perhaps the dear reader will find some solutions for his work. If not, then you can just admire. It's really beautiful.
Surely many people liked the photos of the verandas attached to the house with their own hands.
Hardly anyone can refuse an additional room attached to the house. But it's one thing when this work was done by strangers, and completely different if everything is done by hand. In addition, as it turned out, although difficult, it is quite doable. Is it worth it then to pay money to "someone else's uncle"? And it's not a fact that the building will turn out to be of high quality and beautiful (there are enough hacks nowadays). On the veranda, which was mentioned in the step-by-step instructions, it took about 10 days along with the painting. This means that in a maximum of 15-20, you can make the perfect one. Experts promise to do all the work in 30-60. It is worth considering ...
We hope that the information provided by us today was useful to the reader. All questions (if you still have them) can be asked in the discussions to the article. Write, share your experience, because it can help someone.
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An extension to the house is an excellent solution for expanding free space in any type of dwelling. It is important that all construction works can be done independently.
Of course, this will require certain construction skills and knowledge of work technologies, but there is nothing particularly complicated about this. The help of specialists may be required at the design stage of the structure, as well as when supplying communications inside the structure. In addition, certain problems often arise when legalizing an extension in the regulatory authorities.
The annex can perform a variety of functions.
Most often, the extension is erected to form an additional room, summer kitchen, garage, veranda, terrace, awning, porch. There are a huge number of options - everything will depend on personal requirements and wishes. Of course, it will be very difficult to build something from a technological point of view, but often all construction is done by hand.
The main thing here is to correctly complete the construction of the foundation, walls, roof, insulate and isolate the room from moisture, and also correctly attach the new base to the old one.
Before starting any construction work, it is necessary to clearly determine the type of construction, because an extension to the house can only be made if there is a clear plan and project. There are several of the most common types of extensions in our country:
This is the simplest and least expensive extension for a country house from all points of view. The main functional task of such a structure is to ensure the protection of people and things located under a canopy from sunlight, rain and other precipitation. It will be good to rest under such a canopy in the warm season and have dinner, or you can park the car.
Carport.
An important advantage of the canopy is that the construction of the foundation is not required, because the support pillars (made of metal, wood, concrete) will act as the base. The canopy frame is fixed to these supports.
To form a summer room, more capital construction will be required than in the case of a canopy. Such rooms are intended for relaxation in the warm season, gatherings, reading books, etc. Naturally, a foundation device is required.
It is recommended to use a columnar or strip base, depending on the type of building material and the dimensions of the room. Planks, foam concrete blocks, frame panels are usually used to create walls. For better illumination, the walls and roof, in whole or in part, can be made of glass.
Summer room.
Such an extension usually has a pitched or gable roof. It is recommended to use the lightest roofing material. Installation thermal insulation materials, as a rule, it is not carried out, because such premises are not used during the cold season.
Before attaching a room to a house, it is necessary to complete all the required calculations and draw up a project. In this case, a thorough approach will be required, which implies the construction of the foundation, capital construction of walls and roofs, installation of waterproofing and heat-insulating materials, and the supply of all necessary communications.
Warm living room.
Particular attention is paid to the insulation of the premises, so that it was possible to live here in winter time without spending a lot of energy on heating.
As a rule, outbuildings are not intended for kitchen equipment. Such a structure must be capital, therefore, it must be insulated as efficiently as possible.
Wooden kitchen.
It is possible to build such an annex correctly only with the use of a high-quality project created by professionals, because the kitchen needs all communications: sewerage, water supply, electricity, gas, ventilation system. This, of course, leads to serious financial costs, to which not everyone is ready.
The use of an extension for a garage device is a very common trend in recent years. The garage will require the construction of a strip or monolithic foundation, and for the construction of walls, foam concrete blocks or bricks are usually used.
Two garages.
The roof, in most cases, is made of profiled sheet or metal, slate or roofing material. Mandatory communications for the garage - ventilation system and heating.
Many people take a long time to choose where to attach a new room to their home, so that it is easier to connect it to the main structure. Here you have to choose from two options:
The roof of the extension to the house can have any shape - here again everything will depend on the requirements and wishes of the owners. At the same time, most often suburban homeowners choose pitched roof, because it is simple in execution, it is easy to insulate it on its own, it goes well with other types of roofs that the main structure may have, and it also removes precipitation well, not allowing the entire structure to experience additional loads.
In order for precipitation from the roof of the extension to drain in normal mode, the design of the roof implies a roof slope of 20 degrees or more.
In addition, special attention should be paid to the establishment of a roof extension under the roof of a country house. If everything is done correctly, the wall located between the extension and the country house will be protected from water ingress through the joint between the two structures. In addition, the roof of the extension should be extremely harmoniously combined with the roofing material of the main building and harmoniously fit into the exterior of the building, without standing out from the general background.
In the design process, it is very important to correctly calculate the load that the roof structure will give. Consider the weight of rafters, roofing material and other structural elements used in the construction of the roof.
It is important to understand that an extension to the house on screw piles or poles are not designed for too heavy loads, unlike monolithic or tape concrete foundation... You also need to insulate the roof (you can insulate it using any suitable heat-insulating materials, which it is recommended to cover with waterproofing on top).
Build an extension to the old or new country house- that's half the battle. Any additional premises erected on the land plot must be documented and obtain permission to carry out construction work from the regulatory authorities.
An extension to the house can be done by hand, no one will force you to invite builders, however, the homeowner must present a competently drawn up project of the building to the employees of the controlling services.
The procedure for processing all the documentation for an extension to an old country house usually takes from several months to a year.
An interesting point - you can start collecting documents and obtaining a building permit after all the work has been completed. This is permitted by applicable law.
At the same time, when considering the documents, the employees of the supervisory authority may have some claims that will have to be corrected without fail (for example, the location of the building relative to underground utilities or the use of unsuitable building materials).
A pergola is the simplest structure and a great place to relax.
The barbecue is a great place for receiving guests and celebrations.
It is much easier to solve the housing issue if you have your own private house than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:
Below will be considered the basics of technology and step-by-step instruction creating an extension to a wooden house.
Before choosing a specific building material and technology for the construction of an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the premises. It may be worthwhile to immediately plan the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live year-round - in case of an expansion of the family or the arrival of a large number of guests.
There are several types of annexes to a wooden house. They differ in material and installation features:
Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that can affect the choice of materials and a specific type of extension:
Do right choice of a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this structure, the characteristics of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. For this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is erected.
The frame extension has a number of advantages:
NOTE. If you intend to build two-storey annex, it is worth considering this particular option - the structure is light and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are noticeably reduced.
On the preparatory stage it is important to solve the following tasks:
First of all, it is important to decide on what type the structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for the installation of a single roof, or as an adjoining building.
It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply be adjacent to the wall. You can make access from the house directly into it if you make an appropriate hole and put a door.
The diagram of the structure adjoining the house is presented below.
Structurally, such a solution is a roof placed on supports. The roof is made of rafters and support boards as standard. For a longer service life, it is advisable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. As a rule, it is based on a conventional strip foundation.
Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:
The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. A preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice to consider before starting work:
At the same time, for the roof of the extension, it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.
In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.
The frame is made of wood or metal. Moreover, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension turns out to be more reliable and lasts longer.
NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but old enough, the rate of its subsidence will be several times higher than that of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - "groove-comb".
As for tools, no special equipment is required: it is important to have a screwdriver, saw, pliers, building level and other tools for woodworking.
Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require conscientious efforts.
The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since, in the overwhelming majority of cases, the construction of a foundation for an extension is not provided for during the construction of a house, the foundation must not only be correctly laid, but also reliably connected to the main foundation.
NOTE. If you are planning the construction of a newly erected house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. It can be made after a while, and laying the foundation along with the base of the main building is a technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single whole, which will ensure their reliability.
The main requirements for the base of the extension are as follows:
Most often, strip foundations are chosen for the extension, since they are quite capable of cope with such loads. Moreover, the installation features always depend on the type of soil. You can lay monolithic foundations, made of bricks or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.
The schematic diagrams of the bases are shown in the figure.
Construction technology strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and poured with concrete.
This is the most crucial stage. which needs special attention. Traditionally, two types of connections are used:
According to the "tape-tape" type, the stages of work will be as follows:
Installation according to the "plate-plate" scheme is possible in 2 cases:
Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important task - to strengthen the old foundation and thereby support the sinking house. Illustrative video instructions:
It is important to make the floor in the future room correctly from the point of view of 2 factors:
It is important to make a high-quality floor, especially in cases where the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round living.
The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is possible to produce only a wooden covering.
The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:
The concrete surface is cold enough, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.
On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors... It needs additional treatment to avoid rotting, but wood flooring is much warmer than concrete.
The sequence for installing a wooden floor looks like this:
All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.
An illustrative example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.
The next stage is associated with the direct construction frame structure... To do this, first of all, you need to install a strapping bar. If it is assumed that the wall thickness will be 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.
As a result, we get a structure of something like this.
Cutting of the groove in the base can be done complete or incomplete. Can be articulated without punching using a steel corner.
The lower strapping is done in several stages:
The top rail is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.
NOTE. The interval between the vertical supports must be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be possible to easily lay insulation (mineral wool, foam plastic, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.
The general structure of the frame is shown in the diagram.
Walls are erected according to the following algorithm:
A waterproofing layer is certainly placed between the strapping and the foundations - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material.
ADVICE. If it is planned to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately, installing all the beams on the lower harness. In this case, there is no need to fix each element with temporary mows.
The installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof to the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.
In general, the finished structure can be schematically depicted as follows.
After the construction of the frame, the material of the roof of the house from the side of the extension must be disassembled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while it is important to put an additional bar in front of the acute angle (shown by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection in case of snowfall; therefore, they are also called anti-snow supports.
The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:
NOTE. It is not necessary to connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid manner. This can damage the structure due to uneven shrinkage rates of the main room and annex. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that provides free movement of the lower support.
At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.
NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.
One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. An extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for economic purposes, it is important to create enough good insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage the inner surfaces of the walls and ceiling.
The structure of the wall can be schematically represented as follows.
In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be carried out:
It is important to treat all wooden structures with special solutions that prevent rotting and the harmful effects of temperature changes.
The basic stages of the construction of the extension (pouring the foundation, building walls and installing the roof with subsequent insulation and finishing works) do not depend on the choice of a specific material of construction. However, depending on it, their technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.
In the case of an extension from a bar (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame analogue, accordingly, the base is required to be more reliable.
A tiled foundation or a pile foundation is often used, less often a strip foundation (for small outbuildings it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it is established for at least 1 year.
From the point of view of simplicity and cheapening of work, the best option would be to create a pile foundation, which can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.
Building walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the bar is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it together.
Fastening materials are used as follows:
metal staples and plates;
Masonry technology for round timber in the construction of an extension to the house:
The technology of wall construction, insulation and decoration does not fundamentally differ from that described earlier.
In the case of the construction of a structure from a bar, you can easily make two-story structures. Of course, in this case, special requirements are imposed on the foundation and floors.
Brick extensions to a wooden house are erected less often. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.
Most often, in such cases, a monolithic foundation is used. In this case, the brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of the second floor of the same or attic. Installation of the floor and roof according to the technology does not have any fundamental differences from those discussed above.
And another one cheaper and quick option construction of an extension to a wooden or other house - from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.
The erection of a structure from cinder blocks occurs very quickly due to the large size of the building material. This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy, veranda.
And finally - short video an overview of the main stages of the construction of a frame extension to a wooden house.
The desire to increase their country house over time appears in almost every owner of a private house. AND a great solution in this matter will be an extension to the existing house.
Construction work begins with drawing up a project, where it is clearly and clearly worth drawing the plan of the planned object, thinking over the connection of all premises with the existing house, choosing the type of structures, foundations and deciding which ones. Construction Materials will be used. Financial costs during construction will depend on the correct study of the design stage. It is also worth at this stage to decide on the nature of the use of this structure, namely, it will be seasonal or year-round, and also to decide what number of storeys the new structure will be.
There are several common types of outbuildings that can be classified by purpose.
Such an extension is usually one-story and is used in the warm season. It is convenient for spending time together, family dinners, relaxation, etc. Of course, a light or shallow foundation is needed, preferably independent from the main building of the house.
Such a structure, as a rule, has a pitched roof (Fig. 1, 2). It is recommended to use metal or polycarbonate as roofing material. In this case, it makes no sense to do thermal insulation, because the room will not be used in winter. It is worth noting that the minimum roof slope angle is 8 °, you cannot do less, otherwise leaks will appear after showers and snowfalls.
Living room and attic, if the extension is two-story (Fig. 3, 4).
In this case, a more thorough approach will be required for the construction of the foundation, the construction of capital walls and a roof, as well as the installation of waterproofing and heat-insulating materials, the supply of all utilities.
Particular attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the walls, roof and floor, given that the extension will be used in the cold season, and, accordingly, heating.
Before starting construction, you need to take into account the condition of the house. The conjugation of roofing and foundation structures will depend on this criterion. And it is worth considering that due to the difference in the magnitude of the load that the main structure and the extension will exert on the ground, it is highly likely that over time they will move relative to each other.
Another option for an extension to the house may be a separate structure, adjacent to the main, which quite often becomes the only possible
because of an old house may not withstand the reconstruction of the roof, and this will destroy the stability of the entire structure.
Also the extension may differ in the type of foundation... Usually, a separate foundation is arranged for the extension, which is connected to the base of the old house with the help of embedded fittings.
Of course, a more correct option is a common foundation, which was laid at the stage of building a house. However, this happens quite rarely, and therefore it is worth ensuring the maximum similarity of the foundations in terms of material and in depth.
The most constructive and competent solution may be a separate foundation for an extension. The most common in this regard today is the foundation on screw piles (Fig. 5, 6). After screwing into the ground, the piles are united by a single grillage by welding several metal channels or from timber... It turns out an independent and independent foundation, which will not be connected to the main house in any way, since the existing foundation can continue its downward movement, which can lead to deformation of the structure.
In this case, the minimum possible distance is observed between the two buildings, i.e. technological gap, which is filled with heat-insulating and waterproofing materials.
An extension to the house can be executed according to frame technology or from a wooden bar (Fig. 5, 6).
Frame technology the most acceptable, since it has a low weight and is the construction of a frame from a wooden bar and filling it with insulation. For example, it can be SIP-panels, representing in section a three-layer "pie" of two bearing surfaces (usually OSB), between which expanded polystyrene foam is pressed, where the thickness of the insulation can be different, so you can choose panels for any climatic region. In this case, no cladding is required. additional materials, which will reduce the cost of construction.
It will be enough to paint the panels internally with varnish. It is also worth saying that an extension from a bar to a wooden house can be of two types: three walls and a fourth load-bearing, which is already in the house, or three walls, which is the most reasonable in terms of material consumption. If you plan to stay in winter, then you should use a material with a cross-section of at least 150 x 150 or 200 x 200mm.
Such a bar is quite heavy, but it will also last longer. After the walls have been erected, the remaining cracks must be sealed, otherwise it will be very cold in the extension. This can be done with the help of modern heaters based on basalt wool or polyurethane foam.
Time passes, and it turns out that a private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. How to do it efficiently and without extra costs, we will tell in the article.
Poorly thought-out design of the extension over time will force something to be altered or completed, attached to the country house. In order not to get into such a situation, we think over all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start by choosing the location and size.
Every kind additional room has its own specific features in connection with use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to the construction of a small house. It is required to reliably insulate, to prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.
Kitchens and bathrooms are another common type of annex. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about engineering communications and bring them down even before the start of construction. Sewerage and water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than to break through under it later. Waterproofing requires increased attention flooring... We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned to be summer, then you can save on this.
The house is expanded with a veranda annex. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to a complex one with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing of the foundation is necessary.
An extension to the house should be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has an external finish, then it will be easy to repeat it in the attached room. Wood goes well with all materials, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option there will be a frame structure:
The base for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but we leave the expansion joint. In this respect, frame structures are favorably distinguished, which do not give vertical shrinkage.
If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope so that the snow does not linger and the rain flows down. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.
For the columnar foundation of the extension to the house, concrete, brick or their combination is used. It is made mainly for a living room or a veranda. If used for a kitchen or a bathroom, thermal insulation of the input of utilities into the house will be required. Since the protection concerns on average half a meter of pipes, you can go for such costs, it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of material for backfill, a fence around the perimeter.
We start by marking the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, the depth is greater than the freezing of the soil. We slightly expand the pits at the top: about 10 cm on each side.Fill the bottom with a layer of sand 10 cm, carefully ram, then rubble or broken brick, which is also rammed.
We spread the film for waterproofing, bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build pillars of bricks, pour a little concrete mortar for the base into each hole and wait for it to set. When concrete pillars are planned, we tie the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide equal distance between the walls. We put pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.
We make the formwork for the basement, inside which we run the film. Pour the concrete layer by layer, pierce each layer several times with a rod so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it grabs, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the pillar and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time we pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.
When the foundation has acquired the required strength, the formwork is removed. We warm up the bitumen mastic, apply it to the posts and immediately glue the pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. There is a space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill up in order to insulate the floor. We use ordinary earth mixed with rubble or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, ram. The technology for erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.
So, we settled on the frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for the tree to serve for a long time, it is required to adhere to two rules: to make reliable waterproofing and to carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means is bituminous mastic... It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.
Then we make the bottom strapping. Usually a bar of 150 × 150 mm is used, but it is possible to use boards of 150 × 50 mm. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, leveling with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.
In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is tape, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then we lay it. To get the effect of a single bar, we knock down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. It turns out a strapping of the required thickness, which, moreover, has additional advantages:
We attach the lower strapping to the slopes from the same boards 150 × 50 mm, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them with 90 mm nails between ourselves and with the beds. Next, we expose logs from a similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the strapping board with nails, 2 on each side.
Now we start to warm the floor. The cheapest, albeit not very environmentally friendly option is tiled polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3. Its advantage is that it is the only heater that is not afraid of moisture. We nail bars of 50 × 50 mm to the lower edges of the lag, which will hold the expanded polystyrene. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the lower and upper rows overlap.
The base is ready. Lay the subfloor on top. So that it does not warp over time, we put it, alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look into the cut: we put one board with an arc up, the other down. The finishing floor is made of plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if you have grooved edged boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We put it directly on the logs.
There are two technologies for assembling frame structures. The first is called frame-panel board, when the entire assembly is done on the ground, then the finished structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes sheathing of the frame is carried out immediately, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation right on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. The shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone, assistants will be required.
We begin the construction of the frame with corner posts. For them and intermediate racks, we use a beam of 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We arrange the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. So we will save on waste-free use of the material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.
Fastening can be done simply and reliably with metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and fixed with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the rack, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will lead to the fact that the entire extension is bent.
To support correct shape the frame is helped by temporary slopes, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached. If the sheathing is made of a rigid and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is able to independently strengthen the base, which will stand securely after removing temporary mows. When a soft material is planned for sheathing: siding, lining, then you cannot do without permanent braces. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.
In the places where windows and doors are installed, we fasten the crossbars. We make the racks next to them double: they experience increased loads and should be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing top strapping... In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and a strapping of the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor logs were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150 × 50 boards to the edge with nails.
We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correctness of the installation of the struts and crossbars: the columns are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.
The roof of a house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one whole. If the extension is built from the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one, it remains only to repeat its structure in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along its length, its roof is pitched. The slope is provided by the difference in height between the front and rear struts. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main visor.
The roof supports are rafters, which are laid on the beams. They are made of thick boards to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground in a pattern so that they are all the same. Then, after installation in place, there is no need to align horizontally. We process the grooves with mastic, install and fasten them to the walls with brackets, metal corners on hairpins. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.
We lay the crate on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material, we make it solid or with a step of 0.3-0.6 m. The need for a solid wood flooring arises in the case of application soft material, thinned we do for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten the profiled sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws with sealing washers, and ondulin - with nails with a wide head. We provide overlapping waves. Don't forget about the final design: the wind bars not only protect the roof, but also give it a complete look.
For the insulation of buildings, they are mainly used mineral wool and foam. Minvats resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a low weight, a form of release convenient for consumers: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, it is not afraid of fungus, moisture, decay. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it very much, it emits toxic gases in case of fire.
We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:
Remained interior and exterior decoration, where there is room for the owner's imagination. The frame extension is erected quickly, cheaply, it has been serving for more than a decade, and it can be built practically without outside help.
