House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» Technology for assembling a house from profiled timber: preparatory stage and workflow. Assembling a house from a profiled bar with your own hands House from a profiled bar with your own hands

Technology for assembling a house from profiled timber: preparatory stage and workflow. Assembling a house from a profiled bar with your own hands House from a profiled bar with your own hands

Houses made of profiled timber are presented in the form of a constructor. This material is made from logs with a certain diameter. The blanks are dried by storing them on pads.

A house made of profiled timber looks like a constructor.

Profiling and parameters are given to the timber during processing on special machines.

The finished material has a landing head and an insulation groove.

Manufacturing technology

A house made of profiled timber is delivered to household members disassembled. Installation of this design does not provide for the collection of waste of base material. The installation of the building is carried out taking into account the design features and technologies of wood production.

In its middle, the density is higher and contains a lot of resin (conifers) or tannins (deciduous). Due to the absence of sap flow in the core of the trunk, the tree has high strength.

Often this product is given the following profile:

  • the outer side is flat or has a semi-oval shape;
  • the inner side is straight;
  • the lower and upper sides have spikes and grooves (used when installing a house).

The production process itself is carried out as follows. Pine edged timber is used as a starting material. It has a high density and strength, and practically does not contain moisture. Its section should be rectangular, without deviations and cut lines. The material that is affected by fungi and insects is also not used.

Before profiling, the workpieces are kept for 3-5 months in warehouses or placed in special drying chambers. It is necessary to check the material for moisture. This figure should not exceed 22%.

Profiling is carried out on special machines with 4 sides, in which the number of spindles exceeds 6 pieces, and the minimum section of the workpiece is 250x240 mm. As a result, a finished product of a calculated shape or profiles with a smooth surface is obtained.

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Houses made of profiled timber have the following advantages:

  1. There is no need for additional thermal insulation - wood is a poor conductor, therefore such structures retain heat well in the cold season and do not allow hot air masses to enter the house in summer.
  2. Excellent resistance to vibrations - this material is often used when installing houses in earthquake-prone areas.
  3. The possibility of increasing the flammability index - for this, a special impregnation is used. If necessary, fire safety is easily provided due to the interior decoration of the building.
  4. The presence of clear forms in a profiled beam - therefore, such a construction simplifies the finishing work that must be carried out inside the structure. In this case, additional preparation of the rough base is not required.
  5. Significant cost savings.
  6. Original appearance.
  7. Does not rot.

The installation of a house or a bath is carried out using a profiled bar, the cross-section of which is 145X145 mm. Products of smaller parameters are used for arrangement internal partitions... Seams are sealed with special tapes made of polyurethane foam or polyethylene foam. If possible, jute insulation is used. This procedure is carried out using the following tools:

  • screwdriver;
  • building level;
  • hammer;
  • roulette.

To pull the bars together, you will need special structures with pins. Corner joints on a log house are made using various technologies using milling machine... The castle structure of this type is rigid and does not need additional processing. Upon completion of the foundation work, the house is strapped. To do this, lower crowns and supports for partitions are placed on the base, and logs for the floor.

The next step in the installation of a house from a profiled beam is associated with the assembly of external walls. For this, the groove-tenon principle is used. During this process, window and door openings are formed. Further work and its timing depends on the drying to which the base material was subjected - natural or chamber. In the first method, a pause is made in the installation of a house from a profiled beam for 6 months. This is necessary to shrink the material used. With natural drying, the moisture level of the timber is 22-30%, for chamber drying - 12-20%.

According to the technology of assembling the walls of a house from a profiled bar, it is necessary to pay more attention to the laying of the first crown. To create a house from a bar, if the temperature in winter is up to -30 degrees, its thickness should be at least 15 cm.

The first beam is set at a level, this will avoid skewing the building. The first timber is best taken 5 cm thicker than those that will be used to build a house.

In the next step lay interbeam insulation and a second element is mounted on top of it.

Timber joints

To connect the logs to each other, pins are usually used, for which holes are made.

The main types of connection:

  1. corner joints;
  2. crown joints;
  3. end longitudinal nodes.

It is best to use lendzhut as a heater; this material contains half flax and half jute in its composition.

To complete the work, you will need the following tools:

  • roulette;
  • a hammer;
  • cord;
  • building level;
  • chainsaw.

Erection and bonding of corners

Variants of connecting corners without residue:

  1. in the joint;
  2. "Half a tree";
  3. with a root spine;
  4. on dowels.

With the remainder

  • fastening when laying in a corner "with the remainder";
  • one-line grooves;
  • double-sided lock;
  • four-sided lock.

There are several options for building corners:

  1. with dowels, for which special grooves are made in the bars;
  2. using a connection like thorn groove, while a thorn is made in one element, and a groove in the other;
  3. with help metal staples, in this case, the bars are connected end-to-end;
  4. by crossing logs, in each of them, half the thickness is cut, and they are connected to each other.
Often the length of the house is longer than the length of the bursa, so it must be lengthened. In this case, it is necessary to correctly conduct the connection, which is made in a ligation, that is the seams are offset relative to each other as when creating brickwork... The length of the product is connected in half a tree and fixed with dowels.

In the locations of windows and doors, only solid material is used, 2 dowels are hammered near the openings. You can cut an opening in the finished log house, do it with a chainsaw, but first you need to do the markup.

Warming process

For the construction of a house, beams with a thickness of 15-20 cm are usually used, but if you plan to live in it permanently, then the walls must be additionally insulated. This can be done both outside and inside the building. Outside, siding or blockhouse is most often used, and inside it is clapboard or drywall.

Basic insulation for external walls:

  • Mineral wool and its analogues;
  • Windproof plates Izoplat;
  • Styrofoam;
  • Foamed polyethylene;
  • Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS);
  • Sprayed polyurethane foam;
  • Penoplex.

First, the wall is marked taking into account the size of the insulation, so that it fits snugly between the crate. After that, suspensions are attached with self-tapping screws, on which metal profiles or wooden beams are mounted.

Between the lathing, a heater is settled, usually these are plates of mineral wool, which are attached to the wall with dowels-fungi, you can insulate it with penoplex instead of cotton wool, but it has a number of disadvantages (vapor-tight, flammable), the advantages include high sound and thermal insulation, low price.

At the next stage, to protect the insulation, a waterproofing layer is mounted, while its foil side should be facing outward, and all seams are qualitatively glued with tape. Now it remains to close the facade with siding or blockhouse.

How to align a wall in a house if it is bent

Sometimes a problem such as deformation occurs, this can happen for several reasons:

  • If not dried timber was brought and its final drying takes place already in the wall.
  • In case of violation of the installation technology, when the insulation was installed incorrectly and moisture gets between the logs.

If you notice the curvature of the wall in time, then this can be corrected. In those places where deflections have appeared, as well as near window and door openings, a tire from a channel or the same bar is applied and installed vertically along the entire height of the wall on both sides of the building.


Bus bar
is carried out at least at three points, for this, metal studs with a diameter of 10 mm and wide washers are used. It is necessary to tighten the nuts well, but you should not expect an instant result.

It may take up to several months for the wall to return to its normal shape under the influence of the tire and external weather factors.

If with the help of tires it was not possible to completely align the walls, then you can give the house an attractive look by finishing its facade.

If you decide to build a house from a bar on your own, then in order to obtain a high-quality result, the following recommendations of specialists must be observed:

  1. Pay special attention to the choice of material; of all conifers, pine is most often used;
  2. It is better to use wood harvested in winter, if it was harvested in summer, then it is better not to heat the house for the first year, and in the second year it is necessary to maintain the temperature within 16-18 degrees.
  3. Shrinkage takes place over three years, at which time minor cracks may appear on the walls, which is quite normal, after which the surface changes stop.
  4. When creating a window or doorway, they must be done a little more than necessary, otherwise, during the shrinkage of the house, the frame will be crushed, the gap is filled with a soft insulation.
  5. To eliminate lateral displacement, the bars are connected to each other using dowels.
  6. It is impossible to connect the bars with nails, since when they dry out, the tree hangs on the nails, and large gaps are obtained.

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    Building a house from a profiled beam with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. What houses are not built from: brick, concrete, natural stone, marble, clay, sandstone and shell rock, wood. Historically, wood has been and remains the most beloved building material in our region. Every year the choice of sawn timber on the construction market is growing. Our ancestors built their houses from raw round logs.
    Today, the choice of construction timber is quite diverse: logs, timber of natural moisture, rounded, profiled (both natural moisture and chamber drying) and glued beams. In this article, we will tell you how to build a house from a profiled bar step by step step by step.

    Beautiful 2-storey house made of profiled wood. Such housing can be built in 1-2 seasons.

    Which wood is better to buy?

    You can build a wooden house at any time of the year, but it is best to buy winter wood. Prepared in winter time the tree is denser and gives off moisture more evenly when it dries. Profiled timber is made mainly of coniferous trees, so the air in such a house will be saturated not only with a woody aroma, but also with natural antiseptics of emitted resins. Walls have such a natural property as "breathing". Up to 35% of the air passes through the wood pores, ventilating the room. The phased construction of a house made of profiled wood begins with the choice of building material.

    What is processed wood

    Ready assembled building kit.

    • profiled timber of natural moisture: length 6 m, the most common thickness is 150x100mm, 150x150mm and 200x200mm. The drying process does not stop until the house is built from this material. Whether this building material will lead or not during the drying process, no one can predict, moreover, cracks may appear on its surface. The shrinkage period takes from 6 months to 3 years;
    • chamber drying profiled timber: drying takes place in special drying chambers. However, this does not mean that the processed building material will not shrink, it will only give significantly less than wood of natural moisture. In addition, "roasting" in the oven allows you to rid the wood of fungus, insect larvae and other biological muck.

    For more information about this type of building material, see the video tutorial.

    It's time to start talking about step by step construction houses made of profiled timber.

    Foundation

    The beginning of construction is the foundation: a wooden house has a relatively low weight, therefore, it is not at all necessary for it to build a massive capital foundation. Based on the soil indicators, the house can generally be placed on poles or piles.

    This is often resorted to, since in this case the price of building a house from a profiled bar will be slightly lower due to savings. However, most often they still build a strip foundation.

    Attention to the video:

    Bottom strapping

    During the lower strapping, a beam or log is laid on the foundation, on top of which the house is directly assembled. Before the strapping is performed, waterproofing from bituminous mastic and roofing material must be laid on the foundation. The log intended for strapping is very carefully, it is possible even in 2-3 layers, it is covered with an antiseptic composition.

    Sometimes, on top of the antiseptic, the wood along the entire length, excluding the ends, is also treated with the development of engine oil. The oil film prevents moisture from entering the wood.

    What is the harness for?

    If you are interested in the question of how to build a house from a profiled beam with your own hands, then you are probably wondering - what is the harness for at all? Wood and concrete, even if waterproofed, have different thermal conductivity, so the place of their contact is most susceptible to decay.

    Do I need to fasten the strapping beam to the foundation? On this issue, the opinion of experts was divided. Some think what is needed, otherwise the house may shift. Others say that it is not necessary, because there have not yet been any cases of "running away" from its pedestal. You decide.

    Be sure to watch the suggested video on the topic of the article.

    Laying floor logs

    The material for the manufacture of floor logs is a profiled beam, a carriage (a round log sawn from two parallel sides), sometimes a 50 mm board folded in three layers. These are standard kits for building a house from profiled logs. The logs are stacked at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other, parallel to the short wall. If the length of the log is not enough, it can be lengthened, then an additional support is constructed under the junction.

    The logs serve as a frame for the floor, they are covered with rough floors (15-50 mm unedged board is used), insulation and already on top of the final floor.

    We continue to tell you how to build a house from a profiled beam yourself.

    We lay the first crowns

    The first crown - it, like the strapping beam, must be very carefully treated with an antiseptic (however, machine working is not prohibited). When laying the first crown, do not rush, use a rope to check the coincidence of the lengths of the sides and diagonals. And the level is the absence of skew.

    Assembling the walls

    The walls are assembled crown by crown up to the height specified in the project. Do not forget to lay a tape insulation or tow between the timber, the crowns are connected to each other with dowels. Particular attention should be paid to corner joints. The presence of drafts in the house depends on their quality.

    Roof and ceiling

    Of course, before you build a house from a profiled beam with your own hands, you have chosen which roof will cover your house. Bars of the ceiling, as a rule, accurately copy the location of the floor logs, boards, a waterproofer, a heater are laid. A frame is made for the roof - rafters and lathing. The density of the lathing depends on the material chosen for the roof covering.

    Everything, the main work is completed, the house must go through the stage of shrinkage.

    Final finishing of the house from profiled timber

    After a year, the house is caulked, windows and doors are inserted, a final flooring, communications, external and internal wall decoration are done. By the way, it is best to treat the house from pests in the first three months after assembly (if the tree was not treated before laying). Watch the video for more details.

    Is it possible to build a house without insulation?

    Is it possible to build a house from a profiled bar without insulation?

    I guess, yes. It all depends on the thickness of the wood used (for permanent residence it must be at least 180 x 200 mm), the climate in which the house is built, depending on whether the planned operation is seasonal or permanent.

    How to assemble a house from a bar 150x150? Complete overview of the issue. No experience anywhere

    The embodiment and implementation of the idea of ​​how to assemble a house from a 150x150 timber can be of interest to those owners of a plot or land who want to build a not too cumbersome, usually one-story building at a fairly fast pace and without involving specialized construction teams.

    Whether it is a summer house or a place for permanent residence, a bathhouse or an auxiliary utility room, the opportunity to perform many of the works attracts on their own.

    But in order to start the construction of a building from a bar, you need to clearly understand the plan and the amount of work to be carried out, so that later your project does not turn into another long-term construction due to lack of materials or insufficient funds.

    How to assemble a house from a bar 150x150, provided that the site for construction has already been selected (the purchased plot of land is analyzed for heaving and the presence of groundwater, and soil samples were taken and its nature determined)?

    As a rule, it all starts with a project.

    If the building is small and one-story, choosing it on your own (there is a lot of free information on the Internet) will save you quite a lot of money, since developing projects from scratch in the corresponding company costs a lot of money. Therefore, planning is best spent on your time, not money.

    Foundation

    The basis for the long life of any building.

    From what it will be, and how well it is thought out, sometimes very, very much depends. Usually, the foundation, subject to normal soils and not too uneven terrain, is chosen either as a self-leveling tape or pile concrete.

    This will be quite enough for the implementation of the plan. A self-leveling plate is both costly and does not justify material investments for such a not too heavy and massive one-story building.

    How to make a strip foundation with your own hands has already been described in our other article, so at this step we will not dwell in detail, but rather we will immediately proceed to the assembly stages.

    Pros and cons

    I must say that the timber is an environmentally friendly material, so that people who care about health and nature, it is just very suitable as a selected building material.

    In addition, a bar has significant advantages over a log: less material is needed for construction and it is better processed.

    But, in the red- its susceptibility to screw deformation (which is successfully combated by the use of profiled material) and poor protection of seams and joints, requiring additional processing.

    Manufacturers have recently dried profiled material.

    This procedure helps to avoid post-construction shrinkage. There is also glued laminated timber - a high-tech and geometrically stable material, not exposed to moisture.

    From this, although it is more expensive, and you need to try to build.

    Walls

    For the construction of the walls, a 150x150 bar is taken, cut off at the corners of the laying. Everything should start from the bottom crown. This part of the building should be given the closest attention.

    But in the beginning, you need to think about waterproofing (if it did not fit during the pouring of the foundation).

    Before laying the timber, you need to lay roofing material with longitudinal fastening boards, which are processed with bitumen.

    One of the methods for creating a log house is half a tree. Here, pins are used - special spikes - wooden or metal, designed to connect the bars.

    Special holes are made, both in the corners, and according to the length - a step not less than a meter. The 1st crown is installed, and a fiber-insulation is placed on top. In the future, the laying of subsequent crowns continues. The dowels are usually driven in starting from the 3rd row of the bar.

    Another assembly method is to join along the length.

    The correct technology for assembling a house from a bar

    The length of the bar is 6 meters (standard). By a certain method, the ends of each of the beams are cut out so that they can be connected into a lock. Such a structure from the third row must also be secured with studs-pins.

    Root thorn.

    On the first bar you need to drive in a spike. In the other, make a groove of the desired size. The corner of the log house is created when these parts come close to each other. But they still prefer to collect the first crown in half a tree. The whole structure is also connected with pins.

    Which assembly method to choose is up to you directly, based on your preferences and characteristics of materials for construction. And also it can directly depend on personal skills and abilities, if you are going to drive out the log house with your own hands.

    Roof assembly

    If the removal of the walls has already reached a certain design level, you can start building the roof.

    This is a rather difficult process that is difficult to carry out without preparation. Best option- gable construction.

    Rafters are the foundation of any roof. They are fastened with staples and nails. When building, you should remember about summing up communications (for example, a gas pipe), as well as about arranging a chimney, if a stove or fireplace is supposed to be installed in the house.
    Next, on the rafters, you need to lay a film to isolate from steam, sew the slats for the counter battens, then the crate itself.

    The material from which the roof covering will be made is selected and the installation is carried out. For example, if you took a metal tile, then our article with the corresponding title will tell you tips for installing it as a working surface of the roof.

    Installation of floors

    Assembling a log house from a bar will not do without traditional mounting gender, for which special care must be taken. Most often, the floor is made double, and an insulating layer is laid between its parts.

    For the floor, an edged board is usually used, which is hemmed from the bottom.

    So that it does not come off in the near future, the stitches must be kept in an even and accurate way. A cranial beam will also be used for the floor. And its fastenings are made on lags. Finishing of the floor can be done with both modern coatings and "semi-antique", depending on the interior design of the room that you have conceived.

    Ceiling

    • In a log house, the ceiling should consist of several layers, the installation of which seems to be mandatory.
    • The hem, which is located inside and has mainly aesthetic characteristics.
    • The vapor barrier layer, which is located next and serves in order to protect the beams from the penetration of air from the inside, to prevent rotting of the rafters.

    Insulation, which will serve to prevent warm air from leaving the building during frosts (it is located closest to the roof).

    After installing it, the implementation of the idea of ​​how to assemble a house from a 150x150 timber can be completed, and you can start installing windows and doors, interior and exterior decoration of a building built with your own hands.

    Raw materials of the profiled timber

    Profiled beams are usually made from timber pine, spruce, fir, larch or cedar... They are less susceptible to various woody diseases than deciduous ones, grow relatively quickly, have less weight and density. Of the hardwoods, GOST 11047 considers only aspen and birch to be suitable for the manufacture of wall beams, but with restrictions on the location in the log house: except for window sills, rafters and beams that form two lower crowns, i.e.

    That is, in places where precipitation is greatest, condensation forms. From conifers, better quality products are obtained, impregnated with their own natural antiseptic - resin.

    Coniferous beams are subdivided into 1, 2, 3 and 4 grades depending on the number and types of acceptable wood defects: cracks, fiber inclination, roll, core, sprouting, fungal and biological lesions, warping, etc.

    (only the number of knots is not standardized).

    Specific requirements for the quality of wood, dimensions and characteristics of sawn timber and products are given in the following standards:

    Manufacturing technology of profiled timber

    1. A log cleared of bark is rounded off from four sides, giving it a square or rectangular cross-section.
    2. Then, with profile cutters, several parallel grooves are cut along the entire length (the width and shape depends on the purpose).
    3. As a result, a “groove-comb” system is obtained on two opposite sides, which now become lateral and will be aligned in the wall with the profiles of the lower and upper beams.

    One or both front sides ("street" and "into the house") can be flat or semicircular, imitating a rounded log.

    Ribs on the outside front side are left in the form of a sharp rectangular edge or cut off with a slight slope. Such chamfers create additional protection joints from the ingress of water during rain or snowfall, accelerate its flow down the wall.

    After profiling, the timber is either immediately delivered to the consumer, or pre-passes a special drying(in a drying chamber with hot steam), and in accordance with these they distinguish:

    • Profiled timber of natural moisture 82-87%
    • Profiled timber dry no more 18-20%

    The dimensions are the same as for other types of timber, spelled out in the standard 24454-80, starting from 100 mm in width.

    The length varies from 2 to 9 m, the most common being 6 m.

    When making beams from wood with a moisture content exceeding 22% , allowances for shrinkage in width and thickness are provided in accordance with GOST 6782.1 for coniferous trees and GOST 6782.2 for deciduous ones. The higher the moisture content of the timber, the longer they will dry out and the longer the shrinkage of the walls will last.

    Possible measures to prevent cracks during timber shrinkage:

    • Build a house in autumn or winter, then cracks will appear less often and look smaller;
    • When choosing a bar, give preference cross section rectangular - in this case only the wide side cracks, on a “square” bar the crack can go on either side;
    • A small compensation cut made in advance on the bar will make it easier for the internal stress to escape.

    Characteristics of the profiled bar

    Strength pine / spruce 420, 375 or 280 kgf / cm²

    For one kind or another wooden products and structures, several values ​​are determined depending on the type of load.

    Basic:

    • bending - when loading the edge, and then the face;
    • for compression along the fibers;
    • stretching and shearing along the fibers.

    First of all, the grade affects the strength of a certain breed. For example, here are given the bending resistance under loading of the face for pine and spruce sawn timber of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd grade, respectively (SNiP II-25-80).

    Thermal conductivity 0.1-0.36 W / (m ° C) The value decreases with the thickening of the timber and increases with the increase in the moisture content of the wood.
    Geometry violation

    Profiling increases the reliability of joining the beams, makes the walls not blown out and protected from the penetration of precipitation.

    Nevertheless, after a year and a half, the structure shrinks - the bars lose moisture (even dry glued ones), decreasing in size.

    In addition, the process occurs unevenly throughout the body of the beam, which is explained by the unequal density in different parts of the log (butt, top, knotty places). The result manifests itself in the form of bending, twisting around its axis.

    The profile becomes a disadvantage, since it does not allow to dig in the defects that have arisen.

    To initially minimize their appearance, you need to press down on the wall as much as possible, for which the upper crown is collected from the heaviest beams. Ideal option will be the construction of an attic floor, since the weight of a simple attic space not enough for sufficient loading.

    Disease susceptibility Since wood is a material of natural origin, its uniformity depends on the conditions of growth and development of the tree, on the degree of influence on it during this period of microorganisms and insects.

    Therefore, the presence of certain defects is almost inevitable - areas of wood on which homogeneity is disturbed. Their number, permissible species are standardized by standards for each variety separately.

    The higher the homogeneity of the wood, the more durable and thermally stable the product will be. To maintain its performance at the proper level, to extend its service life, treatment with antiseptic agents is intended.

    Shrinkage up to 8% of size
    • Natural moisture bar 4-8
    • Dry timber 1.5-2
    Fire resistance group G (combustible materials) Impregnation with fire retardants and / or paints is mandatory.
    Price planed profiled timber of natural moisture from 7000 rubles / m³

    If the ends are not cuts for the corner connection, then the timber is considered molded and its price is about 40% lower than the timber with bowls (made for a specific project, i.e.

    That is, when purchasing a kit from the manufacturer that is completely ready for assembly at home).

    Also, the price increases with the thickness of the timber. For example, if a product with a cross-sectional side of 150 mm costs 7,000 rubles.

    per cube, then the following will cost: 200 mm - 7400, 250 mm - 9300.

    These values ​​are given for pine and spruce wood, but a bar made of Siberian larch and Altai cedar will cost from 14,500 rubles. - moldings and from 18,500 - with bowls (wall set).

    The cost of dry planed timber from 7900 rubles / m³

    Dignity

    • The complex profile and its high-precision design ensures a tight fit of the beams and an almost solid structure;
    • The assembly of walls is easier and faster than from non-profiled timber;
    • Air and vapor permeability of a house made of solid timber is better than houses made of glued timber;
    • Although the glue, which is necessarily used in the production of laminated veneer lumber, meets sanitary standards, it is still an artificial material, and natural solid wood looks preferable from the point of view of environmental friendliness;
    • Due to the low thermal conductivity of wood, heating costs are reduced, low weight - the load on the foundation;
    • A characteristic feature of profiled beams (especially dry ones) is exceptional smoothness, achieved by the cleanliness of processing on high-tech equipment, so you can do without additional wall decoration;
    • Profiled dry timber approx. 2-2,5 times cheaper than glued, but at the same time it is very close to it in its technical characteristics: thermal insulation, shrinkage, speed and technology of building a house, aesthetics, etc.

    Disadvantages of a profiled bar

    • Less durable and hard than glued;
    • As well as on a regular bar (simple section), due to drying out, temperature changes, cracks are formed, deformation can occur (first of all, this concerns a profiled bar of natural moisture, a dry bar cracks much less often);
    • Despite the low thermal conductivity of wood, if the timber is less than 220 mm thick, wall insulation may be required.

    Transportation

    When ordering a house kit from a profiled bar, delivery to the construction site becomes, in fact, one of the (equally important) stages of the production process: the slightest damage will subsequently lead to a violation of the integrity of the wall.

    Therefore, the safety of each element, and then the accuracy and efficiency of assembly of the future house, depends on the quality of loading and unloading operations, compliance with the rules for packing and placing transport packages on the cargo platform.

    For greater reliability, the beams are stacked on pallets, wrapped with foil and packing tape (GOST 19041-85).

    It is better to transport heavy packages on vehicles equipped with manipulators in order to exclude falls, bumps and other dangerous situations during unloading.

    Alexander Kiyaev Date: 2013-05-05

    Questions and answers on the topic

    No questions have been asked about the material yet, you have the opportunity to do it first

    House made of profiled timber - beautiful without finishing

    Profiled timber houses are one of the most common types of wooden housing. The features of the building material give them many advantages, which are manifested both during construction and during living.

    MATERIAL
    A profiled bar is a wooden bar (most often from coniferous wood), processed on four sides on a special machine.

    When assembling the house, the beams are connected according to the groove-comb system. The profiled timber has a smooth surface that does not require additional finishing.

    In addition, it is more durable than ordinary timber, since it is made only from the middle part of the trunk. The material has a low thermal conductivity (0.18-0.35 W / m3). Houses made of it have numerous advantages.

    ADVANTAGES
    - A house made of profiled timber is characterized by ease and speed of assembly. This is due to the fact that the materials required for the assembly of a log house are supplied in sets, which include a bar already cut off according to a specific project and equipped with connecting locks and holes for pins.

    - The connection of the timber does not allow water to flow into the walls, and this, in turn, prevents rotting.
    - Since during the production of profiled timber, stress is removed from it from all four sides, there are much fewer cracks in the walls of a house made from it than in houses from a log.

    - In the manufacture of profiled timber, only natural raw materials are used, so houses made of it are classified as the most environmentally friendly housing.
    - Processing on machines gives the surface of the profiled bar a smooth and attractive appearance, so that the house does not need external finishing.

    And this leads to direct savings in construction.
    - Low thermal conductivity and tight connection of the beams to each other provide high energy-saving indicators of the house. It warms up quickly and keeps warm for a long time. In addition, to provide warmth in the house, less profiled logs will be needed than rounded logs.

    For example, a profiled beam with a section of 140x140 mm in terms of thermal insulation is equivalent to a log with a diameter of 240 mm, 190x190 mm - 320 mm and 240x190 mm - 420 mm.

    To achieve the same thermal insulation of a profiled beam, up to 40% less is required both in volume and in cost than a rounded log, and it is almost two times cheaper than a glued beam.
    - A house made of profiled timber, in contrast to a house made of rounded logs, does not require caulking after shrinkage, which leads to cost savings both on material and at work.
    - Unlike constructions made of laminated veneer lumber, in houses made of profiled lumber, natural air exchange constantly occurs due to the fact that the internal structure of the wood is not disturbed.

    Even with the windows closed, there is always fresh air in the house. This means you don't have to buy an additional 22 air conditioner. The house itself maintains optimal humidity, oxygen balance and distributes heat, creating a comfortable living environment.
    - The strength of the timber and the reliability of the connections ensure the stability of the structure.

    LIMITATIONS
    - If the construction is carried out from a bar of natural moisture, then the structure will shrink. Therefore, it is necessary either to let the house stand for one season before installing windows and doors, or to leave the so-called technological gaps. It is possible to avoid this by using dry profiled timber (15-18% humidity).

    o Despite the fire-fighting treatment, wood still remains combustible, so a fire in the house is possible.
    - Damage to walls by rodents and insects is possible.

    The price of materials and work when assembling a house from a profiled bar

    CONSTRUCTION PROCESS
    The first stage from which the construction of a house begins is design.

    Since each manufacturer of home kits has its own characteristics, it is advisable to take them into account already at the design stage. Therefore, it is ideal if the design is carried out in the same company that will build the house. Design costs 180 rubles / m2. Erection of the foundation Houses made of profiled beams are usually placed on a strip foundation. If the soil moisture is such that the construction concrete base impossible, used as a foundation screw piles.

    Also, piles can be used if the house is on a slope.

    Assembly of a log house
    The crowns are fastened to each other with dowels in a checkerboard pattern. To ensure the best heat-saving properties of the house in our region, it is recommended to use a bar with a section of 200 × 200 mm. Insulation is laid between the crowns. Constrictions are left in the window and door openings.

    In order to avoid damage to the structure during shrinkage, the supporting posts are equipped with jacks.

    Roof and everything else
    After the log house is ready, a rafter system, floor beams and a roof are erected. If the structure is complex and there is a risk of damage during shrinkage, a temporary roof is made. After that, it is recommended to interrupt the construction for one season to allow the timber to dry out.

    At the second stage, windows and doors are installed, utilities are carried out and the wood is processed to protect it from the sun, moisture and insects. It is advisable to start heating smoothly in order to avoid stress in the tree.

    Beam in profile

    The profiled timber, due to the clear dimensions and shape of the profile, allows you to save on inter-crown insulation, interior and exterior decoration.

    The tongue-and-groove joints between the beams prevent rainwater from entering the wall.

    One of the most common materials in wooden construction- profiled timber.

    In the production process, timber blanks are given a clear size and a strictly defined standard shape.

    MATERIAL
    Profiled beams are made most often from coniferous trees (pine, cedar, spruce, larch).

    The profiled timber is made only from heartwood (located in the middle of the trunk) wood, as it has a stronger structure. This is due to the fact that in the middle of the trunk there is practically no sap flow, and also a higher concentration of resin (in conifers) or tannins (in deciduous trees). Coniferous trunks have fewer knots, are less prone to rotting and are easier to handle.

    The most popular material is pine, because it has an optimal price-quality ratio. Trees growing in colder areas have better qualities for building: their wood is less moist and more dense.

    PRODUCTION TECHNOLOGY
    Profiled timber is made from edged timber with a moisture content of not more than 22%.

    Before profiling, the material is kept for 3-5 months in a natural drying warehouse or in a drying chamber. The minimum section of the timber is 250 × 240 mm. Using a set of cutters, the workpiece is given the required shape, grind and chamfer from the corners. Then spikes and grooves (profile) of a certain shape are cut along the entire length of the bar. The works are carried out using high-precision automated equipment.

    SIZE
    The material is produced with a section of 95 × 95 mm, 95 × 45 mm, 145 × 145 mm, 145 × 195 mm, 195 × 195 mm.

    Length - 6 thousand mm. For the construction of the outer walls of a house or a bath, a cross section of at least 145 × 145 mm is used, a smaller timber goes to the internal partitions.

    Advantages:
    - environmental friendliness.

    All stages of assembly

    No chemicals are used in the manufacture. Fire retardants and biocides, with which the timber is impregnated to protect against fire and biodegradation, are harmful to humans only at the time of processing. Once dry, they have no effect on humans and animals;
    - low thermal conductivity (0.18-0.35 W / m3) with a low density (500 kg / m3).

    Compared to other building materials, profiled timber has a low weight, but has better thermal insulation properties (see table). Due to the low coefficient of thermal conductivity, a house made of profiled timber heats up quickly and stores heat for a long time;
    - the best price / quality ratio. Profiled timber is cheaper than glued, but more expensive than edged (due to more labor-intensive production).

    If we compare a wall from a profiled beam and from a rounded log, then with equal heat conductivity values ​​for the first
    - aesthetic appearance.

    Due to the fact that the material is additionally processed on the machine, the walls do not require either external or internal finishing. Therefore, houses made of profiled timber are often built in places with low average temperatures and with high humidity: you can come to such a house during the cold season and quickly warm it up to a comfortable temperature;
    - the ability to "breathe".

    Walls made of profiled timber provide natural air circulation and its comfortable humidity, which favorably affects the well-being of residents;
    - a strong connection that protects the walls from the ingress of rainwater between the beams, which, in turn, prevents rotting.

    Flaws:
    - flammability (treatment with fire retardants is required);
    - susceptibility to adverse effects of atmospheric phenomena;
    - susceptibility to biological damage (treatment with bioprotective agents is required);
    - may crack when the structure shrinks (if the timber is not pre-dried at least up to 20%);
    - additional wall insulation from the outside is required;
    - after the construction of a house or a bath from a profiled bar, redevelopment or superstructure work is impossible.

    more on the topic:
    What to build a wooden house from?

    Beams
    Solid wood houses
    Wooden houses from beams against frame-panel

    How to make a profiled beam yourself?

    Every year the assortment on the sawn timber market is expanding more and more. Building materials suitable for construction wooden houses are becoming more sophisticated and modern.

    How to work with ordinary timber that hasn't been profiled to begin with? Especially considering how quickly it is being replaced by more modern counterparts, such as glued or profiled timber and others.

    The most inexpensive to work with is the most common edged beam. And the profiling of a bar today can be done even with your own hands.

    Profiled timber

    Distinctive features

    Profiled timber Is a building material made of coniferous wood and having specific dimensions.

    As a rule, pine, spruce or cedar are taken as the basis for the timber. If you look at the timber more closely, you can see that its inner side is planed very evenly, and the outer one has a semi-oval shape.

    It happens that all sides of the timber are even.

    Unlike the usual one, the profiled beam has grooves on the sides, which allow joining the beams to one another. This is done to better bond the beams together. An important advantage of a profiled bar is its environmental friendliness, because no glue is used in its manufacture.

    In addition, profiled timber is attractive to the mass buyer for its price and ability to retain heat, as well as ease and convenience of assembly, which is certainly an important factor for those who are engaged in construction on their own.

    With all the positive qualities of a profiled beam, like any other building material of wood origin, pores may remain on it.

    Because of this, mold or mildew may gradually form on it. To avoid this, wood must be treated with special protective compounds.

    When using wood as a building material high probability of cracking, which speaks of its poor quality.

    Over time, these defects can become more noticeable, and they have to be constantly monitored for the appearance of through cracks. On a profile beam, the probability of cracking tends to zero.

    Self-profiling of a bar can be done in several ways.

    This can significantly save your finances and get high-quality competitive building material. Some people think that it is impossible to do this. However, practice shows that with the desire, time, patience and appropriate experience, nothing is impossible.

    Advantages of a do-it-yourself profiled bar

    Of course, it is much easier and faster to buy ready-made building materials, but the independent production of building materials in the form of a profiled bar has not yet lost its relevance.

    Self-made profiled timber can save tens of thousands of rubles. But it takes a lot of time.
    2. Making a bar on your own, you can give it any geometric shape, which will allow you to further make it more dense, and this, in turn, will ensure the absence of drafts.

    In addition, being engaged in the production of timber, only you will be responsible for its quality, which means that you will be 100% sure of it.
    3. Finished walls made of profiled timber do not require subsequent finishing. Therefore, it is important to lay the building material in such a way that it will hide the insulation. By making the building material yourself, you will be able to foresee this important point.
    4.

    With your own hands, you can ensure a higher quality of the connecting grooves, which will affect the density of the abutment of the bars to each other.

    What type of profile should you choose?

    When choosing the most suitable profile for you, you should first give an adequate assessment of your experience in the field of manufacturing building materials.

    At first glance, it may seem that there is nothing complicated in the production of a bar. However, some efforts still have to be made, spending a lot of time.

    The easiest way is to opt for the profile of the simplest designs. In this case, you will not need to use any specialized tool, you will not need to do complex calculations.

    Profiled beams are produced on the basis of already existing standards developed for the main joints of wooden parts.

    The calculation algorithm can be found in the available documents. It is possible to manufacture a profile of two types:

    - profiling through a bar;
    - profiling through triangles.

    Before proceeding with the manufacture of a profile, it is necessary to calculate its dimensions.

    Calculation is required for each section. The calculation algorithm can be taken from the existing GOST. When laying timber from this category, it is necessary to use insulation with a thickness of at least five centimeters.

    Making profiled timber on your own

    In the manufacture of profiled timber, you can use it in different ways.

    The easiest work will be with a hand router with a capacity of at least one and a half kilowatts. It is necessary to work with the tool using special attachments.
    In the presence of a simple profile, a cutter with a diameter equal to ten centimeters is used. With a complex profile shape, the nozzles may be different.

    How the house is assembled from a profiled bar

    With such a tool, you can independently make a bar of any complexity, even with a D-shaped side. But in this case, you cannot do without a grinder and a special electric planer.

    The most important thing is to follow the calculations exactly when working, because the term "profiling" itself implies perfect cleanliness and dimensional accuracy.

    The advantages of this method are:

    - the exact end result, provided that the workpiece is of high quality, is achieved due to the accuracy of the router;
    - with good sharpening of the milling nozzle, no additional grinding is required.
    In addition to the obvious advantages, this method also has its disadvantages:
    - high cost of a milling machine;
    - the complexity of the selection of suitable attachments, since they are not produced for all machines.

    What you can use a circular saw for

    Another method for profiling a bar is carried out using improvised tools.

    One of these tools at hand is a circular saw.

    Its cost will be about five thousand rubles. And choosing the right tool is worth focusing on the manufacturer's brand.

    An important aspect when choosing a saw should be the ability to use it to make cuts of different depths.

    The advantages of this method are:
    - the ability to control the accuracy of the dimensions of the cut;
    - the end result in the form of perfectly straight and smooth grooves.
    The disadvantages of working with a circular saw are:
    - shallow cut depth;
    - inability to clean the groove;
    - the need to change the settings of the tool after each performed operation;
    - low speed of work.

    It is most convenient to work with a circular when making a triangular groove.
    It is allowed to use both tools in the work.

    So, for example, to cut a rounded quarter, you can first use a circular saw, and then refine the roundings with a milling machine. It is better not to dispose of the remaining waste immediately, because they may be needed to connect the bars to each other.

    Features of laminated veneer lumber

    This type of beams are popular in the construction of private houses.

    In its manufacture, use modern technologies... Separate boards are cut out of coniferous trees, which are also called "lamellas". Then these boards are planed to perfect smoothness, and then glued with a special compound.

    The finished workpiece is placed under a powerful press. The great advantage of laminated veneer lumber is considered to be its length, which can reach 18 m.

    In terms of its strength, the profiled timber is inferior to the glued one, since during its manufacture the most durable outer part wood. Whereas additional strength of laminated veneer lumber is achieved by pressing and gluing. Thanks to these manipulations, glued laminated timber practically does not deform over time.
    Although the price of laminated veneer lumber exceeds the cost of its competitor by almost two times, this is due to the peculiarity of the manufacture of beams.

    After buying a land plot, there is a desire to build a house on it. Often, due to a limited budget, this is only a desire. We will consider the independent construction of a small house without resorting to the help of specialists.

    This will help you save a lot and make your plans come true.

    We will build the house from non-profiled timber with a size of 150x150 mm. This is a long-standing technology that gained wide popularity in the 70-80s of the last century, which inexperienced builders can easily cope with.

    So, from this article you will learn how to build a house from a bar with your own hands, you will see a specific project of a 6x4 m log house, you will learn how to lay and choose a foundation, build walls and a roof.

    House project

    Any construction starts with a project.

    As we already wrote, this project of a 6 x 4 house with an attic floor. A columnar foundation was chosen as the base. As you can see in the photo above, the house is sheathed with a raised beam. A metal tile was chosen as a roof.

    Let's say right away that this house is not insulated and serves as a summer residence. If you go to build a house from a bar for permanent residence, then you need to thoroughly insulate the floor, roof, walls.

    On our site there is an article in which the calculation of the thickness of the insulation for the walls is made. (Link)

    Below is the project of the house that you see in the photo.

    Foundation

    We have written about different types of bases more than once in the heading "Foundation".

    We also said that for light timber structures, a columnar base is best suited, because it is the least costly and least laborious. The columnar foundation discussed in the article “link” was chosen as the basis for this house from a bar.

    You can also make other types of bases, such as tape, pile, screw, shallow, slab, but they are all much more expensive.

    As you can see in the diagram, to build the box of this wooden house, you need to lay 15 pillars.

    For the porch, 2 more pillars are needed.

    We will not describe in detail all the nuances of such a foundation in this article.

    Bottom strapping

    Immediately after building the foundation, you can start installing the lower piping. This is one of the stages at which many make mistakes.

    Since the house is built of timber, the lower strapping device has its own subtleties. First, take a look at the layout of the timber.

    Now let's look at some points related to this stage. See the connection of a bar in one row just below in the chapter "Walls of the House".

    • Before laying the first beams on the pillars, you need to put two layers of roofing material, thereby making the waterproofing of the wood, which will protect the lower crowns from getting wet and rotting.
    • All elements of the lower strapping are necessarily treated with antiseptics, since this part is most susceptible to the action of moisture rising from the surface of the earth.
    • Note the planks nailed from the inside to the strapping bar.

      The size of this board is 150 x 50 mm. They serve as a projection on which the floor boards will lie in the future.

    • Internal partitions are made of 100 mm wide timber, but 150 mm can also be used

    House walls

    As we have already mentioned, external walls the houses are built from non-profiled timber with a section of 150x150 mm.

    There is a spacer between each bar in the form thermal insulation material... Felt or a more modern linen wool insulation is used as such a material.

    For ease of installation, when laying the linen tape, it is shot with a construction stapler. The tape is taken slightly less than the width of the bar itself.

    In order to prevent water from getting into the seams between the joints during the rain, a chamfer is removed from the upper edge of the front part of the bar.

    Now let's consider the connection of the timber to each other.

    The beam must be connected to each other not only in the same row, but also in height.

    Single row connection

    Several joints were used in the construction of this house. For this we use a chainsaw and a chisel. In more detail, this topic is discussed in the article "Methods for joining a bar"

    Connecting rows

    To fasten the crowns in height, take round wooden pins with a diameter of 20-30 mm.

    Let's consider this connection in more detail.

    Nagels have long been used in wood construction. You've probably heard of houses built without a single nail.

    DIY profiled timber house

    In our case, wooden pins with a section of 20-30 mm are also used. Their length should be greater than the height of the bar. The maximum length is not limited and depends on how long the drill you have.

    Nagels are best bought in the construction market. Making them with your own hands is quite difficult and time-consuming.

    Main steps

    You have made the strapping and it is time to build the walls.

    • A tape of flax is rolled onto the lower strapping along the entire perimeter and everything is fixed with a stapler.
    • Cuts are made in the next bar and the row is laid.
    • After that, you need to fix the two rows with each other using dowels.

      For this, a hole is made with a drill and the dowel is driven in. If you have a longer drill, then you can first lay three or more rows, and then drill everything together.

    • The height of the dowel should be a multiple of the height of the bar. In our case, it can be 15 cm, 30 cm, 45 cm, etc.

    Important. The holes in the timber should be slightly wider than the diameter of the dowel. The height of the hole is also made more by a couple of centimeters.

    This is necessary so that with the inevitable shrinkage of the house, individual beams do not hang on the dowels.

    What is this multiplicity for?

    The thing is that for a reliable connection, you need the dowel to be at the junction of the rims in the middle. In addition, if the dowel sticks out of the upper crown, then for laying the next row you will have to make holes in the timber in advance, which is not always convenient.

    Where to connect the walls of the house with dowels?

    • The walls of the timber are connected with dowels every 1-1.5 m.
    • There must be a connection in the corners and at the junction of the walls.
    • Dowels should also be installed next to window and door openings at a distance of 15 cm.

    Roof rafter system

    There are various options for the rafter system.

    We will consider the simplest and most understandable, in our opinion, option and give short instruction... For more details on all the nuances of roof construction, including the rafter system, see the section of the same name.

    Everything needs to be done in the order indicated below.

    1. We lay seven boards with a length of 6 m and a section of 150 x 50 mm on the end at equal distances and fasten them with screws or nails to the walls

    We make temporary flooring from boards to facilitate further work

    3. We construct the auxiliary structure and install the ridge girder. This will greatly facilitate the task of laying the rafters.

    4. Install 7 rafters on each side. To do this, we use boards 4.5 m long with a section of 150 x 50 mm.

    We attach the lower part of the rafters to the wall and boards, which we put in the first paragraph. These boards serve not only as a base for the floor of the second floor, they are also braces for rafters, which gives the whole structure greater rigidity.

    Read how to attach the rafters to the Mauerlat in the article (link).

    6. The upper part of the rafter system lying on the ridge is connected as shown in the diagram

    We make a crate for the subsequent roof. What kind of lathing will be, solid, with intervals, from what material it will be made strongly depends on the type of roof. Various options roofing can be found under the heading "Roof" on our website.

    In this project, the lathing was made from a 25 mm thick unedged board with a step of about 5 cm.

    8. We build a frame for further sheathing of the pediment, not forgetting about where the windows will be located

    We carry out the laying of metal tiles and remove the auxiliary structure made in the 3rd paragraph.

    Floors

    Since this log house was built for summer residence, the floors and roof in it are not insulated. In this project, 45 mm thick tongue-and-groove planks were used for the floor of the first and second attic floors, which were laid along the length of the house.

    If you go to insulate the floors, you can find out how to do it yourself in the article “link).

    Wait for the continuation of this article in which we will look at how to install windows and doors in a wooden house and the device of the rafter system.

    We hope this article was useful to you and you will build your first house from a bar with your own hands.

    Profiled timber is one of the most reliable modern materials. Such a house looks presentable, beautiful and rich. The naturalness of the selected material is also an advantage. Due to the high operational characteristics and the simplicity of the processing of the profiled bar, you can easily realize any ideas.

    You can get acquainted with the assembly of a house from a profiled bar with your own hands from the video. This is not difficult. The timber is made in production and goes through certain stages of processing. Its surface is perfectly smooth. The profiled bar also has special grooves, with the help of which you can easily connect the elements to each other.

    Assembling a house from profiled timber and its advantages


    Pros of a wooden house. In addition to environmental friendliness and beauty, there are several other important aspects that make such housing affordable and of high quality.

    Assembly stages. To do everything right, you must follow the instructions and follow all the recommendations.

    Assembling a house from a profiled bar. Video. With your own hands. pros

    As with the use of any other material during the construction of a house from a profiled beam, some nuances should be taken into account. It is especially worthwhile to study this issue carefully for those who are going to do this on their own for the first time.

    Positive sides of a house made of profiled timber:

    1. Attractive appearance.

    High-quality profiled timber does not need additional processing and finishing. The whole process of decorating the walls inside the premises will be reduced to a decorative and protective coating. This not only saves money, but also time. And the wooden house itself looks solid.

    1. Ease of assembly.

    A very important factor, especially if it was decided to do it yourself. But it is worth considering one recommendation: do not skimp on the kit. The fact is that you can buy just a profiled timber and try to assemble it according to your own project. But then it is better to seek help from specialists.

    For self-construction, it is better to purchase a ready-made kit, to which instructions will be attached. Thus, at any time you can find answers to your questions and in the company of several assistants, you will cope very quickly.

    1. Low cost.

    The price of a profiled bar is much lower than, for example, a brick. At the same time, it is easier to work with him. The cost of building such a house is much lower. In addition, you can do without interior or exterior decoration.

    1. Environmentally friendly material.

    Wood is a natural material, it has no synthetic impurities. Therefore, it does not pose any threat to the environment or human health. In addition, a pleasant microclimate will always remain inside the house, which has a positive effect on the body as a whole. The tree also absorbs excess moisture and retains heat well, this is very important, especially in the cold season.

    When working with such material, you should be careful to maintain an attractive appearance... Wood very easily and quickly absorbs dirt, subsequently it is difficult to remove it from the surface, you have to use sandpaper. It is best to prepare a separate area where it will be relatively clean and you can place the material.

    Do-it-yourself assembly of a house from a profiled bar. Video

    Building a house is not easy, but choosing the right material can be done quickly and efficiently, even without involving a team of workers. The fact is that the profiled timber has a relatively low weight and can be easily processed. For those who ordered the kit, the work becomes twice as easy, because they have a description of the work in all details and in a certain sequence. It is important not to deviate from it. You can also watch a video on the Internet, which explains how to handle the timber and how to lay it.

    1. Preparatory stage.

    This process begins with the fact that you must decide on a project or create it yourself. Many companies offer ready-made plans according to which the client can independently assemble a finished house from a profiled beam. In the catalogs you can find a wide variety of projects for every taste and taking into account all the nuances.

    • You should decide on the area of ​​the house.

    If this is a country or garden house, then you can choose a small option that fits perfectly on the site. If you decide to live in it permanently with your family, it is better to choose spacious options. It can be one-story or two, the main thing is that it contains all necessary premises... Also, the size largely depends on the total area of ​​the site.

    • Choose a suitable project.

    It turns out that this is not so easy. Sometimes, due to some circumstances, it is impossible to realize what was conceived. The fact is that in addition to desire, it is also necessary to take into account the placement of communications. But the most important factor is convenience and comfort. The finished projects are well thought out and offer a lot of options. You can create your own on the basis of several.

    It must be remembered that when choosing a bar, its thickness should be taken into account. For a residential building, it is better to choose a material of 200x200 and more. Elements with a smaller thickness will freeze in winter.

    • Calculate the amount of material required.

    Most the best option this is to contact a company that will help you do this. You can also use online calculator on one of the sites. If you have building skills, then you should try to do everything yourself.

    • Registration of the necessary documents.

    This procedure may take some time, but without obtaining permission and approval of the plan, construction cannot begin.

    1. Main job.
    • Foundation.

    Assembling a house from a profiled beam with your own hands according to the video starts from the foundation. Since the weight of the structure is small, it is possible to do with a tape or pile base. It is important to take into account the depth of soil freezing and the foundation must go into solid layers. In areas where groundwater is close to the surface, a slab base is used that can withstand active ground movement. For the concrete to be strong, it must be left for at least 4 weeks. In order to avoid the ingress of excess moisture in the lower part of the house, the upper end is treated with bitumen mastic, and then roofing material is laid on it.

    • Lower crown.

    For this part, the most durable elements are chosen, often of greater thickness. They must be treated with an antiseptic several times and dried. With an indent of 25-30 centimeters, wooden slats are laid, which reduce the contact of the profiled beam with the foundation. It is recommended to use larch for the lower crown.

    • Wooden blockhouse.
    • Interior decoration.

    Usually it is not necessary. Wooden beams are simply treated with a special solution. The interior is different from brick house simplicity and comfort. All necessary communications are also carried out.

    Assembling a house from a profiled timber using a video with your own hands is a very convenient option. This process will not take long. Wooden house Is an economical option.

    Wooden buildings for private residence are comfortable and environmentally friendly housing, which is preferred by more and more people who care about the quality of life. Wood is an affordable material that is quick and easy to work with. It will take no more than one month to assemble a house from a profiled bar with your own hands.

    Benefits of construction from profiled logs


    The profiled bar is a log processed on a special woodworking machine on four sides with cutting out of the locking elements. The profiled timber can be easily assembled into the walls by driving the spikes into the grooves.

    Wooden house building made of profiled material are:

    • light weight. Wooden block houses do not require the construction of a strong base, which reduces construction time and saves your budget. For buildings made of such material, a shallow strip, block or pile-screw foundation will be sufficient;
    • affordable price. Construction from profiled timber is cheaper than construction from bricks. You will also save on interior and exterior decoration, insulation, wall alignment;
    • special machining and drying in chambers makes the material durable. The bar after profiling is less susceptible to cracking and deformation;
    • speed of construction. The geometric shape of each element makes it possible to assemble a block house in just two weeks;
    • environmental friendliness. Wooden houses inside have a favorable microclimate for living people, which is created by natural ventilation;
    • high heat saving coefficient. Sealed well retain heat inside and do not allow cold air to penetrate;
    • attractive look. The tree is characterized by natural beauty. Wooden houses look stylish and solid.

    Houses made of profiled timber experience the least shrinkage. Just one year is enough for the walls to take a static position.

    Building a house from a profiled bar step by step

    Self-construction from profiled timber does not require the involvement of special equipment and professional teams. You can build a log house together. All measures should be carried out in stages in order to get comfortable, environmentally friendly, good-quality, inexpensive housing.

    • Design. This stage requires great attention. A sketch and plan of the future house is necessary to calculate the amount of materials, take into account the location of communications, make measurements, and scale with respect to the site plan. You can complete the document yourself, involve professionals from the SK Choice company, or plan the construction according to one of the ready-made projects that you can.

    A house project is a must if you are going to build on the lands of settlements. Construction must be coordinated with special services.

    • Site preparation for construction. Cut down trees and bushes, uproot stumps, demolish buildings in the area of ​​the planned construction site. Mark the upcoming construction with pegs and rope.

    • Erection of the foundation. Due to the small load that the base will bear, it is enough to build a strip shallow foundation, install concrete blocks or twist steel screw piles under the house from a profiled beam. To strengthen the concrete fill, use reinforcement and loading from crushed stone, broken brick, cobblestone. Before construction concrete foundation or burying the blocks, earthworks should be carried out. When using steel screw supports, a grillage from a bar of a larger section or a metal structure is erected on their base.
    • Assembling the box. The first two crowns above the grillage or on the fundamental surface are laid on the waterproofing layer. The bars should be treated with special agents against wood rotting as a result of moisture. Subsequent crowns are completed by collecting each element in the lock. It is required to think over the corner joints in advance - "in the paw" or with the extension. Insulating material, for example, jute, is laid between each row. This is a natural strong fiber that prevents heat leaks, cold air penetration, and contributes to a hermetic fit of the crowns together. The crowns are fastened together with dowels.
    • Cutting down window and door openings. With the help of a saw, in accordance with the approved project, cuts are made in assembled box in places where entrances, passages, windows are planned.
    • Installation of the subfloor. During the erection of the box, depending on the design solution, at the planned height, sub-floor logs are laid in the cut holes in the profiled beam. This can be a block, a log, or a thick board. A flooring is made on top of the log.

    • Roof assembly. On top of the assembled walls, a rafter system is erected in the form of a strong wooden frame made of a bar or thick board. Logs are laid on the upper crown for the construction of the ceiling. A crate is mounted on the rafters with a step of each element of at least 1 m. Waterproofing is covered over the structure and the roof is laid. As roofing material use slate, metal tiles, shingles, roofing material, profiled sheet, ondulin, metal sheet, etc.
    • Shrinkage of the log house. The box with the roof assembled on the foundation must be left until next year. The structure should experience shrinkage as a result of natural ground movements and drying out of the wood.
    • Installation of windows, stairs, doors. After the shrinkage period, the house takes a static position. Installation of entrance groups, frames, staircase and railings before the tree takes its final shape is fraught with deformation of structures, costs of replacement or repair.
    • Connecting communications. After the box has shrunk and all the necessary elements are installed, water is brought into the house, the sewage system is installed, the electrical wiring is laid, and if necessary, a ventilation system is installed.
    • Internal and external decoration. A structure made of profiled timber requires minimal effort and spending on finishing activities. The walls do not need leveling or cladding from the outside. The box, as well as all wooden elements, should be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.