The construction of a bath is necessary at any summer cottage and at a country house. But traditional options, in which a brick or timber is used, have a number of disadvantages. But the frame structures deprived of them need to be erected using a special technology.
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It is very difficult to build buildings, even such minor ones as a bathhouse, with your own hands from bricks or logs. You will need to spend a lot of money on materials, prepare flawless drawings. And without the help of someone, it will not be possible to do such work at all. Therefore, frame projects deserve increased attention. Moreover, the consumption of wood in comparison with conventional timber structures is reduced by exactly half.
The buildings are relatively light, even if they are made in dimensions of 6 by 4 or 6x6 m; if the size of the structure is 3x4, 4x4 m, this circumstance manifests itself even more. Therefore, there is no need to prepare solid foundations. It is possible to finish external and internal walls at the same time, and the overall installation speed increases noticeably. The smallest area of the steam room is 250x250 cm. It is recommended to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 and a length of 4000 mm, which are filled with concrete, for the foundation.
All wooden elements are thoroughly dried before assembly. The rafters are assembled on the ground, after which they are alternately raised and placed over the frame racks. The roof is made only in a ventilated version.
It is advisable not to raise the ceiling in the steam room above 210 cm. Only after finishing the frame, the bath is divided into separate rooms.
The undeniable advantages of the structure frame baths turn out to be:
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But after carefully studying the reviews of the owners and developers, you can immediately find certain shortcomings. Each of them can be eliminated by timely measures, only because you need to properly understand possible problems... Frame baths in their pure form quickly cool down, and therefore, after a short time, an ugly fungus appears inside. To cope with this difficulty, you need to use only the highest quality insulation.
Styrofoam or simple mineral wool does not serve effectively enough, and the first option also ignites easily.
It is possible to extend the service life of a panel bath if the entire used timber and boards are impregnated with antiseptics of a special sample. After 18-24 months, the frame shrinkage is sometimes 80-100 mm. As a result, external and internal finishes are deformed. You can reduce this risk if you take chamber-dried sawn timber.
The simplicity of construction and its availability for non-professionals does not mean that you can safely start work without preparation. Even the experience of such work does not give grounds for a complacent attitude. A well-thought-out project and drawings of the future structure will help to avoid serious mistakes.
On a small area (3x4 or 4x4 m), it is required to maximize the intensity of space use. If possible, such small baths generally should be avoided if there is sufficient building area.
The most simple circuit- when the steam room, shower room, boiler room and dressing room are combined. But such a step is acceptable only for mini structures or transportable baths, because it is impossible to distribute the temperature as expected. Therefore, they try to create, even with the smallest dimensions, albeit very small, but self-contained rooms. A 3x4 m bathhouse may well be heated with a small boiler or a wood-burning stove. Individual designers even find the opportunity to complement it with a veranda or terrace.
The smallest projects have a number of valuable properties:
It should be remembered that even a small one-storey annex to the house must be registered with the cadastral registration authorities.
On a larger plot, it is quite possible to build a 6x6 bath: it will not only allow you to wash off the dirt from yourself, but also invite the whole family and even a group of friends. Typical projects with such sides imply a significant area of the rest room - it can reach 20 m2. Most often, it is there that the staircase connecting the first floor with the attic is also located.
A two-story bathhouse is superior to a one-story bathhouse already because it allows you to organize additional space for life and leisure. Often there are rooms for receiving guests, bedrooms, billiard tables or other sports equipment.
Thanks to frame technology, the overwhelming part of the costs relates to the foundation of the building, and if it already exists, the subsequent stages of work will be much more affordable.
In the construction of two floors, the first step is to create a foundation from support pillars, and the base must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. Experts recommend building the truss system of the bath from boards with a section of 10x5 cm, and a board with a thickness of 2.2 cm usually goes to the crate.
The frame-panel structure is assembled according to the principle of a toy constructor. It is not difficult to find combinations of elements suitable for the construction of a washing room with a pool, then they are only placed on a prepared frame. The kit usually comes with a detailed technological instruction that helps to avoid mistakes - if only it is strictly observed. In the case of mobile baths, everything is even simpler - they are assembled not at construction sites, but at industrial enterprises. All that remains for customers is only to supplement the finished blocks with the necessary details.
Most projects involve the use of gable roofs, attic under them it is not organized or it is very small. Inside, however, they often put bath equipment. When choosing the type of foundation, they are guided by the category of soil and its condition. The mass of the building, even if we take into account the presence of a second floor in a number of variants, is relatively small. The design indicators of insulation depend on whether the bath will be used year-round or it is intended only for the warm season.
It is not so difficult to calculate the need for metal frame nodes: any seller can do this, having learned the required dimensions and design. IN typical projects the exact consumption of metal is normalized, and if they are compiled according to individual order, then all calculations are undertaken by the designers. But all the same, they must be controlled, because even on iron material, some builders can make "mistakes" in their favor. Before calculating the need for wood, you need to choose whether a timber or a log will be used in this case. Timber-based designs are preferable because:
The strongest timber, according to experts, is made from conifers, moreover, they are less susceptible to the destructive action of insects and microorganisms gnawing wood. The standard dimensions of the timber taken into account in the calculations are from 10x10 to 20x20 cm. The volume is calculated by multiplying the length by the height and by the thickness of a single element.
Some of the masters claim that you need to add 10-30% to the result. But this step is frankly stupid, because, on the contrary, you will have to spend less timber - it is not mounted on the openings of windows and doors.
Inexperienced customers and even builders replace the length of the perimeter with an area, and then they are forced to stop work, buy missing materials and spend money on their transportation. In order not to be mistaken, you should also carefully check the labeling and accompanying documents. In some cases, on the price tags and in the speeches of sellers, slightly larger dimensions of the bar are indicated than it actually is.
To further save money, you can change the timber to boards, and the cladding can be made of plastic lining or profiled sheets. When working, only boards of the highest category are acceptable.
Having calculated the need for materials and choosing the size of the frame bath, you need to deal with the sequence of construction work. There are no fundamental differences from the construction of other baths or city houses in the order of stages, but each of them reveals its own specificity.
So, when erecting a base, it is best to use columnar structures. They are assembled from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of approximately 10 cm, reinforced from the inside with concrete. Then the outer contours are marked and, with the help of a drill, holes are drilled, extending 2 m deep.
For your information: the depth of penetration in some cases may be more or less. This decision is made based on the type of soil and the depth of groundwater. Each pipe is introduced into the opening and covered from above with coarse sand, moreover, it is thoroughly rammed. When pouring, concrete is used, which is prepared from:
According to the step-by-step instructions, the filling of the pipes should be smooth, a strong steel plate is placed on each of them when ready. The mounted pipes must dry, and only then the turn comes to the installation of the lower piping. The box is treated with disinfectants and covered with a waterproofing layer. Logs are placed on top of the strapping, from which a rough floor is formed. In the interval separating the structure from the lag and the strapping, roofing material is laid, sometimes this place is abundantly coated with mastic.
The construction of the foundation under a frame bath, which has two or three floors, must take into account the total load and snow pressure. Wooden bases are allowed only for miniature baths, the total area of which is 12 sq. m or less. Increased attention will need to be paid to calculating the diameter of the timber and leveling the surfaces.
Be sure to put several bars at the same level, trimmed around the perimeter with stakes. Such systems work well on clayey soils, where they serve stably for many years.
When building baths on screw piles, there is no need to join the supporting structures using a bar or channel bars. Such supports help to build even on a hillside or on a heavily eroded river bank with a turbulent current. The introduction of piles into the ground is carried out either with the involvement of special equipment, or due to the efforts of several builders at the same time. When working, it is absolutely impossible to deviate the support from the horizon line.
At every fourth turn, the position of the pile is carefully calibrated using a magnetic level. It is forbidden to remove structures tilted during twisting by technology, their position is corrected using a rotary level. Any strong concrete and rebar can be used to eliminate gaps between the piles and the surrounding soil. After finishing the installation, the piles are checked for evenness. If everything is in order, the heads are welded on top of them; the drain in the bath is always equipped not only in the washing room, but also in the steam room.
Many people try to put the bathhouse on a strip base. This solution is acceptable even on soil prone to movement and subsidence, which can easily swell. The tape is divided into Finnish and Canadian; both technology schools are simple, but require a careful and responsible approach. Monolithic foundations erected directly at the construction site, and prefabricated only stacked and connected. Most often, they are guided by a shallow deepening (up to 50 cm), such a tape is evenly spread under the load-bearing walls.
Choosing a suitable base option is often difficult without geological surveys. The simplest check can be carried out independently: the type of soil and its visual characteristics are recognized by digging a trench 150 cm deep. They carefully evaluate not only the height of the standing groundwater, but also the level to which the ground freezes.
For any type of foundation, the construction site is cleared of grasses and bushes, flowers and sod in advance. Even stumps, roots and any objects that could interfere with construction should not be left.
Sturdy cords made of colored fabrics help to simplify the marking. In accordance with the markings, you need to dig a recess for the foundation, which will be 50 cm deeper and 400 cm wider than the prepared landmark. The cushion of the building is made of sand, which is poured abundantly with water and rammed. Then the first layer is covered with rubble. Waterproofing is installed along the side planes of the trench. Roofing material is traditionally used, although more and more modern penetron is replacing it.
The formwork is created as follows: the upper edge of the waterproofing serves for laying boards, their thickness is 50 mm, and their width is maximum 1.5 m. The boards must be laid without the slightest gaps, with an elevation of 30 cm above the ground. wire reinforcement, wound 50 mm below the top point of the formwork (later completely hidden by a layer of concrete). Concreting is carried out with a mixture of cement, sand and gravel, in terms of density, it is similar to dense sour cream. Additional hardening is achieved by plasticizers.
It is recommended to prepare the mortar yourself, as it is much faster than getting the mortar from the factory. In addition, this approach will help preserve the quality of the cold seam, avoid water seepage through it, which would spoil the base. And, importantly, the differences in cost are negligible. After completing the work, the foundation is covered with a liquid-impermeable material. Concrete will harden in 24 hours, but it will only gain final strength after a few weeks.
The formwork should be done using even and strong boards so that its appearance is perfect. Nails are driven strictly from the inside to the outside. If you do the opposite, it will be much more difficult to remove the shields. When working on formwork structures, you need to immediately think about the conclusions for the sewerage, water supply and electrical cables. If they are not immediately provided, then it will be necessary to hammer and break the quality of the monolith.
To put strip foundation in the form of a monolithic belt under the bath from the frame is quite acceptable if the fertile soil layer is removed and replaced with poured sand.
Both a monolithic solution and a shallow structure, and a non-deepened base, are necessarily protected from the force of frost heaving. To do this, use:
Shallow belts should not be used on various slopes: there they will not withstand significant shear forces. When building on dusty sand or embankment, an expansion plate is placed underneath. A correctly executed monolith always has a greater height than width. Moreover, the difference is 2-4 times; such a step will make the basement part of the structure optimal; it will be possible to form both overlapping beams and ground floors.
They begin to work by placing special racks, which will be fixed by the upper harness. Other racks are added in between. They will make the bathhouse stronger and more stable. The box is covered with boards, they are attached to self-tapping screws. After sequentially collecting the parts, they form the structure finally.
In frame buildings, windows and doors are mounted immediately, without waiting for the complete completion of the work.
In most frame baths, the floors are created from logs and boards, but it will not be possible to accurately determine the appropriate size of these elements without complex calculations. But this is not necessary - private developers may well do with ready-made averaged values. In most cases, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm and finishing logs based on a bar with a section of 100x150 mm are acceptable. The thickness of the board, expressed in millimeters, should approximately correspond to the gap between the lags, expressed in centimeters.
If thermal insulation is used, the gaps between the logs of the finishing flooring are corrected taking into account the created insulation layer.
As for the basic materials, all long-serving wood species are suitable for creating a floor in a frame bath. But poplar and other soft wood are unacceptable. Before purchase and use, you should carefully check the dryness and integrity of the material, the absence of cracks, splits and other problems. Ideally, all lumber should be sourced from the same kiln-dried batch.
It is advisable to make the finishing flooring from an edged or grooved board, since it does not need to be additionally sanded, but the rough base can also be unedged.
An alternative wooden structures the self-leveling floor often protrudes. This solution has become more and more popular over the years, pushing aside also ceramic and stone surfaces. The key advantages of a self-leveling floor can be considered:
But there are also objective weaknesses: for example, a self-leveling floor finally hardens only after a few days, when you can walk on a wooden floor right away. There is a high risk of scratches and dirt, and the cost of such a coating is very high. Any bath floors are recommended to be made with a slope towards the drain, this will prevent water and soapy foam from spreading in all directions. The self-leveling floor can be done horizontally (without a slope) or the mixture can be poured onto a base that already has a slope. The first option requires carefully sealing the intersections of the floor with the walls, and the second is more difficult to perform, but it directs all the liquid in the right direction at once.
The self-leveling floor cannot be “poured” just like that: its substrate is prepared very carefully. Powerful concrete screeds should be laid on top of the tree, and with reinforcement. The sooner the mixture is poured, the better - it rapidly loses its fluidity, and if this happens before the end of the work, all costs will be in vain. Most often, the floors are poured together.
When working with walls, in most cases, the front cladding is made on the basis of lining or chipboard. Waterproofing is provided with parchment placed under the outer skin. Only then is the insulation used, which should be ideally environmentally friendly and fire safe. The total thickness of the cake and its individual layers is determined climatic parameters territory and features of the use of a frame bath.
A structure used year-round should have not only thicker walls, but also a special vapor barrier. The best solution for it is plastic wrap.
Painting the wall cladding, even in dressing rooms, is undesirable, because vapors of even the safest paints and varnishes can be harmful to health. When thinking over the structure of the walls, special attention is paid to how the ventilation ducts and electrical wires will pass through them. Since flammable materials are used for outdoor decoration, and excess moisture is often present in the air, it is worth giving preference to closed, thoroughly insulated cable ducts.
If the rooms will be finished with boards, their thickness should be about 30 mm. At a lower value, strength suffers, at a higher value, the structure becomes heavy.
The basic parts used in the construction of the roof of the frame bath are gradually laid and assembled directly on the site. The truss should stand on the prepared frame base. Placing the roof on a rough boarding helps to simplify the creation of the roof. The model cake always includes ventilation systems, therefore, the gap from the rafters to the counterbeam is filled with a vapor barrier. The lathing should be attached to the timber.
Then the time comes to make gables from oriented slabs or high-quality boards. In most cases, you should confine yourself to the simplest single-pitched roof, which is performed quickly and without unnecessary difficulties. But if you choose completely original design, not every specialist will be able to complete the work competently and within the allotted time.
What is very important, with the same area, gable solutions turn out to be 50-100% more expensive, and this difference is not justified even by their specific capabilities. With the correct calculation, a cover with one slope will last for many years and all this time will be extremely convenient to use.
Flat roofs do-it-yourself saunas are not recommended. The economy of such a choice is only apparent - the need for a powerful artificial ventilation with natural weakness, it absorbs all the savings. According to qualified builders, a pitched roof should be located at a general slope of 20 to 30 degrees. If this condition is met, liquid and solid precipitates will spontaneously descend.
There are two ways to create a slope: deliberately making the walls unequal in height or by installing racks. With the second option, the material is spent less, but the heat will hold on worse.
Experienced roofers know for sure that as roof slopes decrease, smoother facing materials have to be used. But at an angle less than 10 degrees, even best solutions do not allow to get rid of the resulting puddles and snow drifts. Mauerlat is formed from coniferous timber with a cross section of at least 15x15 cm. Outside, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing (lubricated with mastic or wrapped in roofing material). The rafters are made exclusively of flat boards with a section of 5x15 cm, which are made of hard wood.
With such dimensions, an optimal margin of safety is achieved and it remains possible to fix insulation up to 15 cm thick, if necessary. For your information: the length of the rafters is calculated with redundancy for overhangs, which improve the protection of the walls from water. All ends of the rafter legs are equipped with cuts for Mauerlats, which are fastened with nails or metal strips. The lathing is attached to the legs of the rafters at right angles.
Under certain roofing materials that are prone to deformation, an unbreakable sheathing based on moisture-resistant plywood is necessarily created.
In other cases, lattices of slats are placed, their thickness varies from 2.5 to 3 cm. But in each specific case, of course, this thickness should be uniform throughout. It is advisable to overlap baths with pitched roofs with ondulin, corrugated board, metal or soft tiles... If there is a simple ceiling below, without an attic or attic, it is required to lay slab or roll insulation. Regardless of this, they use:
Single-pitched roofs should rest on rafters spaced at 0.5-0.8 m intervals. The roofing material should be attached to the base using special screws, including synthetic rubber caps. These tops help block water seepage. If there is no specialized fastener, you need to use simple self-tapping screws, supplementing them with external rubber gaskets. Then the gables are sewn up, the drain is equipped - this completes the external work on the frame bath.
No matter how reliable and durable the created "box" is, it will not work to be limited to it. It is imperative to protect these structures from negative external influences and at the same time make them more attractive.
Exterior wall decoration helps developers and designers express their tastes and aesthetic priorities. Often they try to sheathe them with siding, clapboard. Block-house and plaster are inferior in popularity to these materials.
Rough walls should be checked before applying any cladding. They should not even have minor cracks, the sheathing joints should fit snugly against each other. With help vinyl siding you can create a variety of visual paintings: and imitation simple tree, and a "brick" wall, and something high-tech in spirit. Prove themselves equally well plastic panels, and if you need to increase the natural appearance of the bath to the limit, you should choose a block house.
In the case of choosing a lining, it must be kept for several days in order for acclimatization to take place.
Decorating a frame bath from the inside is no less important than from the outside. It is recommended to give preference to environmentally friendly materials, their increased cost is fully justified. The choice of design in interior decoration is now unlimited, you can use any style, not necessarily traditional Russian. Dressing rooms are trimmed with both deciduous and coniferous wood. But it is advisable to choose the color as calm and balanced as possible, taking into account the purpose of the bath.
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Wash compartments are covered with clapboard soaked in advance with mixtures that block rotting. Some consumers use plastic panels and even polycarbonate sheets. There is no place for conifers in the steam room, with the exception of cedar. Among the deciduous varieties, linden is invariably in the first place, which does not burn when touched and does not fade after long use. In more budgetary projects, preference is given to aspen and alder.
You can decorate a brick sauna stove with tiles: this option is the simplest, cheapest and at the same time allows you to provide an attractive appearance. Tiles should not be hung on the masonry; they should rest on the base of the stove. It is worth abandoning simple plastering, it does not give decent results even in dry rooms. Quite good results are sometimes brought by the use of decorative stone.
If the stove is not made of bricks, but is supplied to order, it is worth choosing the solution that corresponds to the chosen style.
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Even the strongest and most reliable materials will not last long if moisture stagnates inside. And the constant accumulation of musty air will not give anyone pleasure. All these problems are solved with the use of carefully thought-out ventilation. In most cases, the choice is made between supply and exhaust and natural systems. Self-circulation is ensured by placing the air inlet at a height of 0.5 m from the floor, and the air outlet at about the same distance below the ceiling.
It is possible to equip the outlet at the bottom only when using forced ventilation or a large ventilation pipe. The inlet of cold air can be organized in the space behind the stove, and the outlet in the floor itself, if the basement is connected by ventilation with street air or other premises. For baths built into the house, it is always necessary to use forced ventilation.
It is unreasonable to blame high-quality and intensive air exchange for the lack of heat in the bath. Almost always, the real cause of the problem is weak and low-quality insulation. In most cases, mineral wool slabs are used. Due to the large amount of air inside, they perfectly retain heat, and the high melting point allows you not to be afraid of fire. Often frame wall insulated with reed slabs, which are environmentally safe and do their job well.
The cheapness of foamed synthetic materials and their lightness, resistance to moisture make such protective coatings one of the best. But it is important to understand that not all materials in this series are equally perfect. In addition, any such insulation is allowed to be used only where strong heating is excluded.
Thermal protection must necessarily be covered from contact with water and water vapor. Wet heaters quickly deteriorate and lose their positive qualities.
The classic approach to the insulation of stoves and the surrounding space involves the use of asbestos to protect various materials. It can be applied in the form of slabs or cloths. But given the danger of asbestos fibers for humans, it is advisable to use other finishing methods:
Heat in a bath can escape not only through walls; most of its leaks occur through floors and ceilings. To create thermal protection inside them, expanded clay is sometimes used. In wall insulation, it is used less and less, because it is too heavy (500 kg per 1 m3) compared to generally available counterparts. In addition, expanded clay is significantly inferior in terms of heat retention to both foam and mineral wool, so the thickness of the insulating layer grows. And even if he slowly but steadily absorbs water, it turns out to be very difficult to dry the material.
Warming of frame buildings with sawdust has a rather long history. They are absolutely safe in environmental and sanitary terms, but putting such heat protection will not work quickly. Wood shavings are used not only for insulation, but also as bedding for animals, fertilizer and in many other cases. Therefore, suppliers no longer give it away for free, but prefer to receive money for such a demanded product. In a large city, sawdust is also sold in supermarkets, but there the price level is even higher than at sawmills.
Only hardwood shavings are suitable for work. The maximum permissible humidity is 20%, and it is better if it is even lower. Clean sawdust on construction sites has not been used for a long time, because they settle and form voids, and a fungus may appear inside.
It is imperative to treat raw materials with boric acid or copper sulfate. The standard mixture also includes clay or cement (for finishing the ceiling), lime or gypsum.
The sawdust layer under the floor should be at least 200 mm, and in the northern regions of the Russian Federation this figure can be increased by another 50%. Bulk laying involves mixing wood processing waste with binding materials, then the composition is poured into molds made of wood, on which the floor is laid. The base is protected from dampness using kraft paper, polyethylene and similar materials. The composition is located uniformly over the entire area, it has to be tamped only in rare cases. The final readiness of the insulation is achieved in two days.
Beautiful frame baths can be made in a variety of designs. This is what a structure looks like with a not too steep roof pushed forward above the facade. A kind of platform is placed in front of the door, to which you need to climb a small staircase. The design concept is clearly built in the spirit of maximum naturalness of the building. Many corner baths, built using frame technology, are finished with siding.
With proper execution, it turns out to be extremely difficult to distinguish them from simple log buildings. The modern approach to saunas often involves the use of a minimalist style. A striking example is shown in the photo - there is only a canopy, a small ladder and clapboard walls and a rectangular window. You can build such a structure with your own hands, moreover, in the shortest possible time. It is easy and convenient to use any of the presented types of washing.
Features of frame baths are visible both during the construction of the building and during its further operation. For such buildings, it is not necessary to prepare the foundation in a special way, because the frame itself and the facing materials made of wood are light enough not to sag even when installed on rather loose ground.
Frame baths are very popular due to their economy, compactness and practicality. A small frame bath room is usually divided into a compact steam room that can accommodate about four people, a shower room and a relaxation room. It is also necessary to have a small terrace or porch in the project.
Baths that are vast in area are usually built in a more fundamental way using materials such as brick or timber, but, nevertheless, sometimes even two-story frame structures are found. Among the obvious advantages of this type of buildings, one can single out the ease of installation, the record speed of collecting the building, the relatively low cost of building materials and work.
Thanks to all of the above factors, Russians order projects of frame baths much more often than the construction of brick bath structures.
A feature of the 6 by 4 compact frame bath is the unusual shape of its terrace and relaxation room, which visually helps to expand the space small room.
Option 3 by 4 is perfect for a small company.
The classic Russian bath 4 to 5 consists of a bathroom, a steam room and a relaxation room.
This project is spacious enough for a small group of friends to relax and at the same time so compact to fit even on a small or almost completely built-up plot of land.
A small terrace gives a special charm to the bathhouse, built according to the presented project, making it look like a pretty village house.
In fact, inside the building there is not only a traditional steam room and a relaxation room, but also a separate bathroom and a bedroom, which makes such a bath quite suitable for living.
A small such structure can be built in just a few days, and serve you for many years.
This project contains all the necessary components for a comfortable stay.
A small frame bath with a large porch or a small terrace can be a real decoration for your yard.
The room consists of a relaxation room, a washroom and a steam room.
The beautifully defined foundation and the natural color of the wood paint make this project especially pretty on the outside. Inside the bath, there is additionally a small vestibule that protects the room from frost.
The next variant is particularly noteworthy for its double gabled roof. Such a structure provides an opportunity to equip a second additional attic floor.
Thanks to the compact size of the sauna, the sauna stove can cope with heating the entire room in any weather.
The height of the attic ceilings is acceptable even for a tall person, thanks to the special shape of the roof.
The advantages of this option are that outwardly the structure looks pretty nice, and inside the room it also has a small attic floor.
The ground floor of the premises is equipped with a separate vestibule and hall, which provides reliable protection from bad weather.
The attic is quite spacious and roomy.
A 6x6 room with a steam room and a washing room is a classic version of a Russian bath.
The building has everything you need for a comfortable pastime of a small company of people, both indoors and on the spacious porch, which can be safely called a small open terrace.
A feature of this project is the abundance of display windows in the design, which give the room a special elegance.
Inside the building there is a full swimming pool, sauna and Turkish steam room.
The construction of houses and baths using frame technology is becoming more and more popular. This is because the technique is such that even alone you can build, not only a bathhouse, but even a decent-sized house. Despite the fact that the structure turns out to be warm (with sufficient insulation), it is also lightweight and inexpensive. Perhaps its only drawback is its high fire hazard, but this is the trouble of any wooden structure, not just a wireframe.
Often, construction is stalled due to the fact that you do not know how to properly plan a bath, so that it is convenient and safe. This can help finished projects layouts. Ideally, if one of them suits you completely: no need to rack your brains. Although, if necessary, you can make adjustments. And sometimes just an idea is enough for you to "fall into place" and a plan for your frame bath, which you will build with your own hands, has emerged. For this, we have selected several projects of frame baths of different sizes with different arrangement of rooms.
This is a bathhouse with an extensive relaxation room, a small bathroom and a 4.8m 2 steam room. The foundation - tape shallow - depth 70 cm, plinth 40 cm high (total height of the foundation with plinth 110 cm), gravel pad 20 cm.There is a small porch that can be sheathed and turned into a vestibule when used year-round. Then cold air will not enter the premises every time the doors are opened.
Finished drawing of a frame bath 4 * 5 m
Total area 20 m 2, premises and their dimensions:
Required materials for creating the frame:
In this bathhouse project, there is a fairly spacious rest room and with such a small building size - 5 by 4 meters, a fairly spacious steam room - in a "clean" size of 4.8 square meters. According to the project, the stove is heated from the steam room, which is problematic for such a small room: there will not be much oxygen anyway. In this version, you can, leaving it in the same place, put a sauna stove with an elongated firebox. In this case, firewood will be laid from the rest room, and the stove and the main “body of the stove” will be in the steam room. With this arrangement of the stove, the problem of heating the rest room is solved at the same time.
The photo shows the layout of a fairly solid bath 6 by 6 meters. There is a small veranda, a dressing room, a full range of necessary premises.
This option is good because in almost any room lumber of a standard length can be used: 6 or 3 meters. This is convenient as there is little waste left. The foundation can be piled, columnar. A shallow tape or slab will do.
But there are some notes on the layout. The washing room for this frame bath project turns out to be spacious. This is an option for those who prefer to relax after a steam room not in a cool (relative to a steam room, of course) relaxation room, but to continue to relax in the humid and warm atmosphere of the washing room. Then the temperature of the order of 30-35 ° C and rather high humidity are maintained in it (due to the increased power of the oven and the open door to the steam room). And they also install loungers, similar to the shelves in the steam room. Then a large sink is justified.
Looking for a larger size sink if you plan on. If there is only a shower and a few small shops, then you can either fence off the locker room or increase the size of the steam room.
Bath plan after changes - with dedicated vestibule The second note concerns the entrance. If they plan to come to the bathhouse in winter, it should have a fenced-in entrance - not directly to the recreation room. And this option is easy to implement. You just need to swap the window and doors and put a partition.
About where and how best to place.
The total area is 36 m 2. Premises and their sizes:
This option was developed by the Karkas construction company. The bathhouse itself is small - 6 by 3 meters. But an extensive terrace is attached to the front, slightly smaller than a bath: 2 by 6 meters. The premises in this project of the baths are very small, no more than three people can sit in the steam room, and if one is lying, then only two. Moreover, the "recumbent" shelves can be located only opposite the door and the size of it will be small - a tall person can no longer lie down (2 meters, minus the thickness of the sheathing on both sides at least 15 cm, total length of the shelf will be 1.7 m).
In this version of the layout of the bath, the stove can only be placed in the corner at the entrance to the steam room. It will be heated from the rest room, but you will need to choose some kind of high and narrow model - very little space is obtained for its installation. You can try to fit the stoves, there are also small stoves, if you need a reliable inexpensive stove under a brick screen, you can try to fit. There are other small ovens and quite a few. It is necessary to decide on the maximum dimensions that will "fit" into the allocated space or move the door a little. In general, in an amicable way, it would be nice to move the wall at least half a meter. By increasing the size of the functional rooms, in the summer, most likely the rest room will smoothly move to the veranda.
And one more nuance: if you plan to use the bathhouse in winter, then you need a vestibule or dressing room. IN this option you can move the entrance to the veranda and fence off part of the square by making the entrance to the room through the vestibule.
Project of a frame bath with a terrace. Good because it is easy to do it yourself The total area is 18 m 2. Premises and their sizes:
Key node materials:
The bathhouse itself measures 4 by 4 meters. A terrace 4 * 1.5 meters is attached to it. This bath layout differs in that the steam room and the washing room have the same dimensions. Two, maximum, three people will feel comfortable in the steam room at the same time. If a dry air sauna is planned, this layout fits without question.
For a Russian steam room, the option is not the best: at least one person is lying here, and for comfortable soaring in a Russian bath, the shelves must have a size of at least 2.1 * 0.7 m (or better, 2.2 * 0.8 m). In the washing room, if you are not going to put loungers there to relax after the steam room, they usually just wash. It is better to reduce its size slightly by expanding the steam room. Then at least one full-fledged shelf can be entered. Although the stove will still be tedious to be small: firstly, the volume of the steam room is small, and secondly, there is not much room.
The dimensions of the premises in the basic design of the bath are as follows:
Key node materials:
In this frame bath project, the steam room has an area of 5 square meters. There is also a terrace with a size of 2 * 5.4 meters.
The total area is 22.2 m 2. Premises and their sizes:
The frame building is a skeleton made of timber, sheathed on both sides with finishing materials. A vapor barrier and insulation are laid between them. It immediately becomes clear that, if necessary, construction can be low-budget. After all, it is possible to use inexpensive thermal insulation materials(straw, sawdust, etc.) which, despite being available, retain heat well.
It is clear that the weight of the walls with this technology is very small. And this leads to the fact that the foundation can be made lightweight. During the construction of baths, they most often make or pile-grillage,. But a monolithic slab or block foundation is also suitable.
Lightweight foundation - lower costs for materials and construction, because the foundation sometimes "pulls" half the cost of the entire construction. And in this option, the costs will be relatively small.
For construction frame house no complicated technique required. All that is needed is a saw, a hammer, a screwdriver, and to check the verticality of the walls. If there is another technique, use it for health, but this is the minimum that can be dispensed with.
An important plus is that you can work alone, only occasionally inviting assistants for some operations. A vivid example is presented in the video: a woman herself, with her clearly not athletic hands, has almost completed a small two-story house using frame technology.
The increased fire hazard of frame structures has already been written. And this is the main disadvantage of houses built using this technology. Therefore, it is advisable to process all materials with fire retardants (means that reduce the flammability of materials).
The flammability of the walls leads to the fact that all electrical wiring must be placed in metal boxes or special non-combustible corrugated sleeves. For this reason, electrical work becomes more difficult and more expensive - the cost of casings and corrugated hoses is added.
The frame bath has additional disadvantages: high humidity makes its own adjustments. We will have to pay increased attention to the vapor barrier of the walls. When using mineral wool, it will be necessary to protect the insulation from moisture very carefully: when it gets wet, it loses its properties. Moreover, when dry, it restores them only partially. If it freezes wet, it just crumbles. Therefore, we choose a high-quality and reliable vapor barrier (not "hydro", namely "steam"). When laying, we follow the technology down to the smallest detail (overlaps, gluing joints and attachment points, etc.).
The basis of a frame house is a frame assembled from a wooden bar. Depending on the planned dimensions of the bath, a beam of 100 * 150 or 150 * 150 mm is used for their assembly. For jibs, and crossbars that are nailed between vertical uprights, bars of smaller thickness are suitable.
When installing a roof for a Mauerlat, you will need about the same timber - 150 * 150 mm or so. For the rafter legs, all the same bars are 100 * 150 or 150 * 150 mm. Depends on the configuration of the selected roof and weight roofing material... By the way, it is undesirable to use a very heavy roofing material - such as ceramic tiles - for frame frames - the load on the walls is too great.
You will also need slats to create lathing, counter-battens, and all kinds of auxiliary work. And there will be a lot of them: the crate is needed both on the walls on both sides and on the roof. Although, in some versions, the outside panels are sheathed with plywood (as in the video above). There are a lot of construction options, as well as the materials used.
You will also need the sub-floor material. What it will be - unedged or edged board, plywood or other panel material - you decide. But all the wood will need to be processed. And fire retardants - to reduce flammability, and protective antibacterial compounds. About,
The materials for covering the frame inside and out are selected based on personal preferences or the purpose of the building. If we talk about frame baths, then usually everything is sheathed inside with clapboard (they put tiles in the washing room), and outside with an imitation of a bar or a blockhouse.
It is advisable to use mineral wool as a heater for the bath: they do not burn. The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the region. For central Russia, baths are mainly used basalt wool, with a layer of 15-25 cm. If you are worried about the possibility of emitting formaldehyde (a lot has been written about this), then you can take non-woven mats. In them, the emission of harmful substances is minimal.
Frame baths are often insulated with mineral wool You will also need a lot of nails and screws. For the construction of a bath, it is advisable to use galvanized ones: so that they do not rust and do not leave ugly streaks on the wood. They will be needed in different sizes and diameters - for assembly, the frames are large, for the lathing and sheathing is smaller.
From all that has been said above, we hope you have concluded that a frame bath can be built with your own hands. To be sure of this, watch the video. A house was built using frame technology with the participation of only one person. It describes in more detail the construction technology of some nodes.
If you picked up a frame bath project, decided to build it yourself, but have no idea how to proceed, we recommend watching the video. In it, an experienced American carpenter Larry Hon tells and shows the technology of erecting the walls of a frame house. The video is very detailed, and takes more than an hour, but by the end of the viewing, the frame construction technology will be clear to you.
We use timber for the frame, so our baths are endowed with many advantages of wooden buildings. They are environmentally friendly and look great, and the resin of the coniferous tree heals the air and serves as the prevention of colds. Modern technology provides other benefits as well.
The Pomestye construction company has been building houses and baths using frame technology for more than 10 years. We use softwood, processed in our own production. This gives us the opportunity to offer the best cost and complete the work on time. The result is a lot of satisfied customers, whose reviews you can find on our website.
Turning to us, you can be sure that the construction will delight you for decades and will not create unnecessary trouble. We carry out a full range of services from design and calculations. You just have to accept a quality job and enjoy your new building!
Important clarification! The project was not made for publication, this page was created only so that records and calculations are always at hand.
I looked at the site statistics, they visit the page, and what was a surprise to me, they download ...
Therefore, I have to warn you.
I am not a builder; I did calculations on the bearing capacity of rafters and floors using available information on the Internet. So, if suddenly you decide to build according to this project, then it is at your own peril and risk.
It is better to contact a small construction company, they will build there quickly and inexpensively.
Well, in principle, the bath box, (at the moment, temporary huts), is worth it, overwintered normally. In the course of work, minor changes were made to the project, tk. I didn’t plan to keep any reports, but I finished construction last year, I only remember - replacing the window with a larger one, and using other steam and windproof films.
The estimate, of course, increased, but not significantly.
Stove - "Baby" Steam with a closed heater from the "Feringer" plant. Steam room with a volume of 10.7 cubic meters.
Washing department with an area of 6.75 sq.m. Two thirds of which are allocated for "wet" procedures.
At first, it will be used as a makeshift. Consequently, the construction will be in two stages.
1. Frame with insulation and exterior decoration... Perhaps a wall between the steam room and the washing room. A shower can be made at once, all interior decoration is hardboard.
"Steam room" - a bedroom, you can put a simple stove, for example, such
If you do not do a shower, then you can organize a pantry there. Lay linoleum on the floor of the entire room.
2. After the construction of the house, internal partitions, the steam room is finished with an imitation of a bar, washing department clapboard and plastic panels. On the floor - granite, in the vestibule - lining and linoleum.
So far, the water supply is planned to be autonomous, i.e. in the attic, there will be tanks for cold water and a heated shower. They will be drawn with a hose from the pump in the well.
We mark and dig holes 0.6 by 0.6 and a depth of about 0.4 m (maybe 0.5 each). Leveling the site with a slight slope towards the ditch
We put the geotextile in the pits, fill it with ASG, spill it with a rammer. We bring to the level.
We are laying drainage. The pipe can only be placed around the perimeter, the middle can be made with old skirting boards (do not throw it away)
We assemble the formwork from chipboard, which is in the barn, if not enough, I disassemble the shelves. In the first formwork, we cut out the boxes from roofing material. First, we make the lower platform by cementing the reinforcement in it. Not earlier than two days later, we make the formwork for the upper part, and fill in the rest according to the level. At least in the corner posts, remove the pins to fix the lower harness.
We cover it with a film between the pedestals, sprinkle it with sand or ASG.
We are waiting for at least two weeks.
Knitting pattern. For one pedestal - 6 pcs. 300 mm each. and 3 pcs. 200 mm each.
Approximate location
Treat the boards for the lower strapping with an antiseptic and leave to dry for a week. Antiseptic, you can try to do it yourself.
Then we assemble the harness, starting from the outer contour. The inner part with the central beam is assembled as follows:
We nail a net from mice to the harness and to hold the floor insulation. To make it more convenient to work later, you will have to "platform", at least temporarily lay the floor.
We also treat these boards with an antiseptic.
The links on which the beam will be supported are marked in blue
I don’t do nonsense, I don’t do blue inserts. Immediately put solid wall racks (do not forget to count)
Under the window is the frame so far as in the diagram, since the window will probably be wider, you will have to move the racks apart, put the upper crossbar and support posts under the frame, cutting the lower crossbar into them.
Racks (2 pcs.) Shower walls and steam rooms (to support the ridge beam) will have a length of 3080 mm. (not 3000 mm. as in the diagram) and lean on the lower strapping. Although the size may go away, therefore, it is better to first put the ridge beam, and then adjust the racks in height.
And in the wall rack of the steam room, you will have to cut a groove for the lag
We must not forget to redraw
The length of the projection of the rafters under the visor above front door, most likely will have to be adjusted if the roof is made of metal, and not corrugated board. (lumber length, allows to increase by 300 mm.)
Alternatively, do not touch the rafters of the visor, but lengthen the short rafters (7 pieces) by about 3 cm, or for this distance, take out the first board of the sheathing (but then problems with installing the eaves plank)
In short, you need to look at the place, everything will depend on the step of the wave.
Overhangs (or rather, their power elements) from the ends in the drawing are rounded to 1 m. In practice, they will be shorter. With a useful width of the roofing sheet 1100 mm. They will protrude (with a cornice strip) by 300 mm.
Before making these elements, it will be necessary to expand and measure the roofing material.
All sizes (also the section of the boards) will need to be recalculated after purchasing the roofing material
Profiled sheeting is easier and faster, metal tiles are more gimmicky and prettier. Under the metal tile, you may need to increase the height of the frontal boards (those that are 100, set 150) and use not a 50x50 timber, but something larger.
| № | Name | Qty. |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Edged board 25x150x6000 mm e / v.xv / p. (1-3 business grade) | 7 pcs. |
| 2 | 27 pcs. | |
| 3 | Beam 50x50x6000 mm (or one board 100x50) | 2 pcs. |
| 4 | Nails 90 mm. | 30 pcs. |
| 5 | Nails 80 mm. | 330 pcs. |
| 6 | Nails 60 mm. | 350 pcs. |
| 7 | Isostrong D hydro-vapor barrier (70 sq. M.) | 1 PC. |
| 8 | White titanium MA-15 | 2 pcs. |
| 9 | Round brush 40 mm | 1 PC. |
| 10 | Metal tile 1.18x2.25 m RAL 3009 | 12 pcs. |
| 11 | Metal tile 1.18x1.15 m RAL 3009 | 2 pcs. |
| 12 | Roofing screws with a drill | 250 pcs. |
On the membrane, under the crate, to calm the conscience (so that the insulation does not stick out), you can attach a plastic tape for greenhouses, in increments of 60 cm.
Under the visor it will be necessary to put slopes, size and location, I will look at the place. I will most likely make them from two boards, 100x40 and 100x25
Siding equipment may change, so at the door, you can put a j-profile, and the window can be made with a finishing strip. The number of panels is calculated for the size 3660x230
For cross-insulation, it is necessary to put the insulation before installing the siding
| № | Name | Qty. |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Edged board 25x100x6000 mm e / v.xv / p. (1-3 business grade) | 7 pcs. |
| 2 | Wind and moisture protection Isostrong A | 1 PC. |
| 3 | Nails 60 mm. | 400 pcs. |
| 4 | Greenhouse tape (50 m.) | 2 pcs. |
| 5 | Siding Vinyl-On 3660x230 mm, vanilla | 60 pcs. |
| 6 | Vinyl-On siding initial profile (starter plank) | 4 things. |
| 7 | Vinyl-On Siding J-Profile | 2 pcs. |
| 8 | Vinyl-On siding H-profile connecting | 1 PC. |
| 9 | Vinyl-On Siding Outside Corner | 4 things. |
| 10 | Vinyl-On siding window profile | 3 pcs. |
| 10 | Self-tapping screws "bugs" 16x4.2 mm | 400 pcs. |
| 11 | 2 pcs. |
If the weather is rainy, it is better to let the whole structure stand for a month before continuing to work.
Well, then, we lay a windscreen, or just a spanbox, we lay the insulation in a run. The film is only so that the insulation does not blow out.
We nail the board with the expectation of the joints of the OSB
First of all, we put insulation in those places where there will be inserts for fixing internal walls. Crepe the insert, and mount the remaining insulation.
Well, only after that, we insulate the ceiling, para-insulate it, and sheathe it with hardboard. We close the insulation with a windscreen on top.
This should be enough, and 1.74 m2 should also remain from cross-insulation.
| № | Name | Qty. |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Edged board 25x100x6000 mm e / v.xv / p. (1-3 business grade) | 16 pcs. |
| 2 | Wind and moisture protection Isostrong A | 1 PC. |
| 3 | Insulation ROCKWOOL Light Butts SCANDIC, 800x600x50 mm (5.76 sq.m.) | 23 pcs. |
| 4 | Nails 60 mm | 300 pcs. |
| 5 | Greenhouse film (sleeve-1.5 m) 200 microns | 26 r.m. |
| 6 | Guide profile 50x40 3 m | 2 pcs. |
| 7 | Guide profile 100x40 3 m | 2 pcs. |
| 8 | Rack profile 50x50 3 m | 3 pcs. |
| 9 | Rack profile 100x50 3 m | 3 pcs. |
| 10 | Board 40x100 (3 or 6 m.) | 1 PC. |
| 11 | Plumbing bolts 6x70 | 2 pcs. |
| 12 | Washers М6 | 2 pcs. |
| 13 | Self-tapping bugs | 70 pcs. |
| 14 | Nails 80 mm. | 50 pcs. |
| 15 | Nails 50 mm. | 600 pcs. |
| 16 | nails 16 mm. | 700 pcs. |
| 17 | Fiberboard 2745х1220х3.2 mm | 16 pcs. |
