House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» Upholstery of doors with dermantine: how to remove old material and re-sheathe it with your own hands. How to sheathe a door - choose the material and do the work yourself How to sheathe an old door with dermantin

Upholstery of doors with dermantine: how to remove old material and re-sheathe it with your own hands. How to sheathe a door - choose the material and do the work yourself How to sheathe an old door with dermantin

A material such as dermantin is very popular due to its technical properties and ease of maintenance. So, dermantin is able to withstand harsh conditions of cold and moisture, is stable and durable, easy to clean and withstand high temperatures... Dermantin is also known for its low cost. Of the minuses, it is noted that it is impossible to restore the material: despite the resistance to mechanical stress, after damage to any area, the entire canvas will need to be replaced, because the door will lose its aesthetic appearance even after the gaps are glued.

A step-by-step guide to upholstery iron and other doors with Dermantin

Upholstery of doors with dermantine is an easy and inexpensive way to decorate and insulate a home, which begins with the entrance to a house or apartment.

To do this work, you will need to know some of the features of door trim. Namely: the properties and characteristics of dermantin, the lining material used, tools when working with wood or metal, decorative, fasteners and more.

Dermantin (from the ancient Greek for leather) is a type of imitation leather made from cotton fabric and a layer of nitrocellulose covering the fabric on one or both sides.

Dermantin for door upholstery is positioned on the market as a substitute for expensive genuine leather, which is not inferior to it in individual characteristics. It is also used for the upholstery of furniture, book items, bags, wallets and car interiors.

Dermantin is finishing material, which has the following advantages:

  • Not subject to rotting and decomposition, resistant to the effects of various microorganisms;
  • Moisture resistant, does not allow moisture to penetrate into the layer of the lining material, protecting it from the appearance of mold and bad smell;
  • Relatively durable material that can last ten years with proper care;
  • Resistant to abrasion and chemicals (acids and alkalis);
  • Easy to clean and clean with common detergents: soap and powder;
  • Frost-resistant, able to withstand temperatures up to minus 35 degrees (depending on the type of dermantin).

Despite all the positive properties of dermantin, many are not satisfied with its shortcomings, namely: at the slightest damage (cut or rupture), the leatherette cannot be repaired and a separate part cannot be replaced, thus a complete upholstery of the doors with dermantin is required.

When burning, leatherette emits harmful substances that are unsafe for human health and contributes to the rapid spread of fire, as it is flammable and fire hazardous. These disadvantages are not so important considering that dermantin has a lot of useful consumer qualities, some of which are described above.

The distinctive properties of dermantin include the fact that the leatherette can be easily and simply cut, it does not crumple, does not wrinkle and does not shrink. In addition, there is a fairly wide range of types of material colors on the market from gray to red. So you can choose what will most harmoniously fit into the interior of the apartment.

What characteristics need to be considered when buying leatherette? When buying dermantine for upholstery, you should pay attention to how the material stretches, whether it forms cracks when pulled. Also look at such a parameter as wear resistance, it should be at least 30,000, and preferably all 50,000 cycles. The higher the number of cycles, the stronger the fabric is to abrasion.

Dermantin must be resistant to the appearance of kinks from material folds and scratches. Also consider the UV resistance characteristics of dermantin if your door is in direct sunlight most of the time.

The surface of the leatherette can be smooth or matte, imitate aged leather, etc. color range artificial turf, what color and texture would best be in harmony with the design of the handles and hinges, peephole and other fittings.

Plain and decorative upholstery

When choosing a material for upholstery in a store, take into account the type of door constriction. There are two types of screed: regular and decorative.

Plain upholstery includes simple trim door leaf a smooth leatherette sheet, which is attached to the base only along the edges. A decorative tape is also attached along the perimeter, fixed to the door every 10 cm.

Decorative or carriage door upholstery with dermantine is a kind of finish made on a base made of wood or MDF - panels nailed to the door leaf.

First, the fabric is stretched over the entire door leaf, and then in some places it is fixed with buttons or nails with leather caps. At the same time, the pattern on the canvas from the buttons can be diamond-shaped or square, depending on the preferences of the owner of the room.

Sheathing elements for a wooden door: rollers, backing material, nails

When preparing for the hauling, it is important to know about the basic materials and elements, thanks to which the door sheathing process takes place.

Rollers

When upholstering doors with dermantin, rollers are used. The roller is a special element that serves to protect the house from drafts and cold. It forms a tube made of lining and dermantine, nailed along the entire perimeter of the entrance to the door leaf or to the door frame.

The placement method depends on the type of door opening. If it opens into the room, then the roller is placed on the back side of the entrance to the house. The roller should extend beyond the box by a few millimeters. In this case, the distance between the web and the roller should be such that the roller "slows down" the opening of the door and it slams shut with little effort.

Upholstery of doors with dermantine is carried out without a roller only in one case: if the metal structure is installed without special bars that allow the rollers to be attached to them.

Lining material

The lining for the upholstery is most often used foam or isolone with the addition of batting. The use of one batting or padding polyester is not excluded. When using the latter, a more rigid and ribbed structure is obtained.

Foam rubber allows you to achieve softer and smoother surface changes. He possesses best properties sound insulation than batting and synthetic winterizer, and Izolon boasts the most outstanding thermal insulation.

Izolon is a new polyethylene lining material, more expensive, but also more perfect. It does not allow cold air to pass through and absorbs noise, being an environmentally friendly material.

Nails

Door upholstery with dermantine is carried out using special nails with wide heads. Sheathing nails can be either metal or leather (leatherette). Steel nails are available in silver and gold.

Leather nails are made by hand, so their cost may be slightly higher than conventional nails. In addition, there are special decorative nails that decorate the doors.

To give the door leaf a beautiful and modern look, it is not at all required to spend huge sums on payment to the hauling masters. Do-it-yourself upholstery of the door with dermantine is done easily and simply, you only need the correct preparation of the door for the hauling and tools with materials.

Preparing the door for hauling

How to determine the dimensions of the material required for upholstering doors with dermantine, taking into account the dimensions of the door leaf?

The leatherette should be equal to the area of ​​the door plus 15 cm on each side.

For rollers, one cut is required with a width of 14-15 cm and a length equal to the height of the door and two cuts cut along the width of the door leaf. The number of rollers is increased if the door opens outward (upholstery on all four sides). Foam rubber or izolon is cut out the size of a door leaf, the thickness of the insulation should be no more than 2 cm.

Let's also count the number of nails. It depends on the pattern and the distance between the nails. For standard door it may take somewhere 50-60 pieces excluding the picture.

Tools for work: hammer, stapler, knife, pliers, scissors, nails. For metal doors the upholstery is carried out without nails, on an adhesive basis. You will need at least 100 ml of glue.

Door trim technology

We release the door from everything unnecessary: ​​from handles, hinges, old upholstery, etc. At the first stage, they will only interfere. Methods for attaching leatherette to the door leaf differ depending on the material of manufacture of the door.

Tree

We make rollers: directly on the door we fix the leatherette strips face down with a stapler. We lay the tubes of insulation and tuck them, closing the foam rubber. We hammer with a stapler or nails. In the lower part of the door leaf, the material must be hammered so that the distance between the roller and the floor is 1-2 cm, otherwise the roller will simply wipe off where it touches the floor.

We strengthen the lining: we fasten the foam rubber with a stapler starting from the middle of the door leaf (so the probability that the material will skew will be reduced to zero). We fasten the lining so that the distance to the edge of the door is 1-2 cm. We fix the batting on the foam rubber layer (it protects the foam rubber from damage).

We fix the dermantin: first, turn it 6-8 cm from above and fix it with nails, making sure that no folds and creases form. Then, straightening, we pull on the sides and hammer in with nails around the perimeter of the door. Correctly stretched fabric does not wrinkle or wrinkle. Distances between nails maximum 10 cm, minimum 5 cm.

Metal

The door is removed and placed on a flat surface, for example, on four stools. Smear with glue along the perimeter of the canvas and in the center, fix the insulation. Press the foam rubber to the surface and leave to dry a little.

Then the main piece of leatherette is glued, starting from the top, in the same way as with a wooden structure, going to the sides and ending with the bottom.

Source: http://o-dveryah.ru/remont/obivka-dermantinom/

We trim the door with dermantine

If you want to update the entrance to your house without significant costs, there is an excellent way out of the situation - do-it-yourself upholstery of the door with dermantine.

It is actually very simple to do this work, but you must first clarify all the nuances. Depending on the material from which the door leaf is made and the direction in which the door opens, there are certain differences in the principle of attaching the new upholstery.

Dermantin cladding is a great way to update a door

Preparatory work

Among everything that can be sheathed with an old wooden or metal door, dermantin, of course, is the best option, it is quite affordable, looks good and is easy to work with.

First of all, you need to purchase everything necessary materials:

  • dermantin (should be 10 cm more than the door leaf on each side);
  • lining material;
  • furniture nails;
  • thin decorative cord;
  • glue;
  • furniture stapler.

It is better to remove the door leaf from the hinges, it will be easier to work this way. Then remove all hardware, remove the old coating and clean the door from dust and grease.

In order to sheathe the door with dermantine as correctly as possible, you need to pay attention to the direction in which it opens, this is necessary in order to use the required number of rollers in each case, if outward - you need four pieces for each side, inward - three are enough. These rollers will help to better insulate the opening.

The upholstery of the front door carries a high mechanical load - this must be taken into account when selecting dermantin

For each roller you will need a strip of dermantin 10-15 cm wide and a piece of lining, for example, a synthetic winterizer. Fasten one edge of the strip along one side of the door face down, then roll the synthetic winterizer with a roller and wrap it with the second end of the dermantin. The work can be done with a stapler, nails or glue in the case of a metal sheet.

Fastening the lining

Before sheathe the front door with dermantine, you should take care of its heat and sound insulation.

If you use foam rubber, the effect will be minimal, it is better to purchase a more modern material - isolon, it is quite dense and copes well with these tasks. The lining must completely cover the door leaf; a small indent must be left on the side of the hinges when opening outside.

Foam rubber is most often used as a lining material.

If you work with a wooden door, the lining is attached with a furniture stapler, placing staples every 15-20 cm around the perimeter of the canvas. If you want to sheathe a metal door, the canvas is covered with a layer of glue, insulation is placed on top and gently pressed.

Working with Dermantin

Now let's figure out how to cover a metal door directly with dermantine. To neatly arrange the edges, it is necessary to tuck the dermantin and fix its edge from the inside with the help of staples, then we smear the hem, the edge of the material with glue and press it. You need to move gradually in one direction.

The door is upholstered using the simplest tools.

It is much easier to upholster a wooden door with dermantine with your own hands - we turn the edges of the material and nail it with furniture studs with a wide head in increments of 10-15 cm.

When performing this work, it is necessary to ensure that the attachment points of the insulating rollers do not peep out from under the folded edge of the dermantine, in addition, it is necessary to step back from the edge a few millimeters so that the new upholstery does not interfere with the free movement of the canvas.

Final design

The last step is the installation of fittings. In the new upholstery, it is necessary to cut the hole slightly smaller holes in the canvas, it is very simple, since they are well felt through the dermantin and the substrate.

Reinstall the handle and lock, peephole, hinges. Then you can start installing the canvas in the opening, put it on the hinges and you can enjoy the work done.

In order for the final result to look a little more interesting, you can not just sheathe the front door from the inside, but add several curly elements to its surface. To do this, you can use the remaining furniture nails.

Carefully mark the places of their installation on the surface of the dermantin, after you hammer in the nails, you can tuck a decorative lace under them. Dermantin and soft lining will be transformed: the contours will be squeezed and a peculiar pattern will appear on the door surface. Usually rhombuses are made in this way, but other schemes can be used.

The easiest way is to work with a wooden door, but with a sufficiently thick and dense layer of the substrate, you can make such a decor on iron door... To do this, you need to fasten the nails or buttons with a strong thread from the back side before sheathing the canvas, connecting the foam rubber and dermantin.

Do-it-yourself door trim with dermantine is quite simple and interesting, besides, it allows you not only to save money on buying a new door, but also gives you a unique opportunity to create your own author's finish. If done correctly, it will look no worse than the industrial version.

Source: http://dvervdome.ru/remont/obivka-dveri-dermantinom.html

Features of door upholstery with MDF panels and dermantine step by step

Overhaul of a worn-out metal door is possible in several finishes. At the same time, door upholstery is most often chosen, especially if the conversation is about economy class models.

Many owners decide to sheathe an iron door on their own... An additional decorative layer will also provide good sound insulation. How the repair will be carried out depends primarily on the material of the canvas and the exposure of the structure to the environment.

Finishing the front door using MDF

The most common type of finish entrance doors is "tuning" MDF panels. Such material is made from wood fiber and is subdivided into:

  • Painted MDF. It is better not to use it for finishing metal entrance doors, since such canvases do not have high strength properties. MDF panels of this type are best finished from the inside.
  • Laminated panels. Sufficiently strong and moisture-resistant canvases. The smooth surface completely imitates natural wood. It has moderate strength properties and is resistant to moisture. It is also possible to sheathe the opening with such panels.
  • Veneered MDF. Such upholstery for metal doors is the highest quality and most durable option. The most commonly used veneer is oak or birch. In order not to increase the cost of the canvas, panels made of expensive types of wood: beech, mahogany or ash are rarely used.

Carrying out repairs MDF doors panels need to prepare not only the main material, but also a number of additional ones, including for cleansing and removing fat from metal surface.

If you plan to sheathe the opening, then you need to prepare the lintels made of wood to which the MDF strips will be attached.

From the tools must be prepared in advance: a hammer, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws for fastening the blade.

Installation work

Before starting the installation, you must be prepared for the fact that after the door trim is replaced, it will become wider. Replacement of the lock, ties and handles will be required. You may need to adjust the opening a little.

The process of installing MDF panels is divided into several main stages:

  • Preliminary surface preparation. Before fixing MDF, a complete cleaning and degreasing is carried out. To improve the quality of adhesion of the canvas and panels, painting and pasting with vinyl film is recommended.
  • When the preparation process is over, the doors are upholstered with panels. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws in the holes with an interval of 10-12 centimeters. So that the caps of the screws do not stand out on the surface, a special sweat is performed.
  • First, the inner lining is fastened to the self-tapping screws, and the outer one is already attached above it. If the doors are opened inside the housing, then the panel fastening is carried out in the reverse order.
  • The repair of MDF panels is completed by the installation of door fittings. These are locks, handles and more.

When the installation is over, all that remains is to check the performance of the doors and all structural elements.

Having finished with the door with panels, you can sheathe the opening, both inside and outside the room, if the quality of the material allows it.

Features of upholstery with dermantin and the choice of material

  • A material such as dermantin is resistant to any temperature extremes.
  • With the ability to breathe, the material has the property of repelling moisture.
  • Resistance to tears and damage allows upholstery with dermantine to serve for a long time.
  • Ease of maintenance. After a certain period, only a light treatment with a special impregnation is required. Any contamination can be easily removed with soap foam, ammonia or usual.
  • Relatively low cost.
  • Self-tightening with dermantin does not require additional hands.
  • It is an environmentally friendly material.
  • Excellent performance of sound and thermal insulation.

When buying dermantine for door upholstery, you should pay attention to the thickness of the fabric, which will serve as the basis, as well as the quality of the top coat. Preference should be given durable material which bounces slightly when stretched.

High-quality dermantin will not have stains from paint, and when you run it over it with a fingernail, it will not leave marks. There is no need to buy material with a pungent odor, as it does not weather well and will be felt in the room for a long time.

Buying dermantin costs 15-20 cm more than the door leaf.

Padding with dermantin

The hauling with dermantin will most easily take place on the removed doors. Also, the door fittings, the old coating are removed, and all dirt and dust are removed.

Before the doors are upholstered with dermantine, sound and heat insulation is carried out. Previously, foam rubber was used, but today it is best for such purposes to acquire an isolon, which is denser and better copes with the task at hand. The isolon layer should cover the door leaf, and a small indent is left on the hinge side.

On a metal door, the insulation is glued with a special glue, which is applied in a thin layer along the perimeter of the canvas.

You can enhance sound insulation by creating rollers along the edging. To create them, you need a piece of lining and a 10-15 cm strip of dermantine. The roller is glued to the canvas.

The next step will be the hauling of the doors with dermantin. For a neat design of the edges, the dermantin is tucked in and, using staples, is fixed from the inside. The bend is smeared with glue and pressed. All actions are performed strictly in one direction.

When the hauling is over, the fittings are installed. The holes in the upholstery are made a little smaller, this is in the canvas. Handles and locks are installed. All that remains is to install the doors on the hinges and you can enjoy your work.

To make the result more interesting, you can add some curly elements. For this purpose, the remaining door nails will do. On the dermantine, the places of their installation are outlined, and then the nails are hammered. A decorative lace can be tucked under them, which will make the door more interesting. In this way, you can make rhombuses and other patterns.

The opening of a door with such a cladding is adjusted to the general interior of the room.

Source: https://golddveri.ru/vxodnye-dveri/obivka-dverej.html

How to sheathe a door with dermantin

Entrance doors are, of course, first of all, protection from unexpected guests, as well as from the penetration of cold air into the room, extraneous sounds, and so on. However, the functionality does not end there.

The door leaf is also, one might say, a visiting card or the face of a house or apartment. After all, coming to visit someone, the first thing we see is, of course, the front door. That is why the appearance of the door leaf is quite an important aspect.

The most popular and cost-effective method of improving the appearance of a given element of a house is to cover it with materials intended for this purpose. The most commonly used of these is dermantin. How to sheathe a door with dermantine with your own hands will be discussed in this publication.

Dermantin benefits

This cladding material has a number of advantages over other similar materials:

  • High quality at low cost. Modern views this covering material is practically indistinguishable from natural leather types. However, it is several times cheaper than natural leather. Therefore, upholstery of the door with dermantine is also economically beneficial;
  • This upholstery does not shrink. Its dimensions do not change under the influence of ambient temperatures, and it is not afraid of the effects of moisture, while it does not lose its qualities;
  • It is an excellent heat and sound insulator. The cloth sheathed with dermantine retains even more heat and prevents extraneous sounds from entering the room. Therefore, door insulation with dermantine is often used along with cladding;
  • Easy to clean. To maintain a decent look of the door leaf sheathed with this material, it is enough to wipe the surface of the sheathing from time to time with a damp cloth, you can use degreasing detergents;
  • Excellent decorative properties. Due to the variety of texture and color solutions, cladding of entrance doors with dermantine can give it a completely different, modern and stylish look.

How to choose material

When choosing the material that will be used for thermal insulation and upholstery of the front door with dermantine, you should pay special attention to its base, as well as the quality of its coating. Most preferred is a dense, slightly resilient material when stretched.

The absence of stains from paint indicates the high quality of this material. Good and high quality dermantin is scratch resistant.

When choosing the material that will be used for thermal insulation and upholstery of the front door with dermantine, you should pay special attention to its base, as well as the quality of its coating.

To check its quality, it is enough to draw a fingernail over its surface - there should be no traces on the high-quality material. And finally, about one more important nuance when choosing a high-quality dermantin: pay attention to the smell of this material.

Cheap and low-quality, it tends to exude a specific "amber" with chemical shades. This can be a very serious problem, especially if the door is trimmed from the inside.

Required tools

Before sheathe doors with dermantine, you need to prepare the necessary tools. This list is very small:

  • Nails with wide (better decorated) heads;
  • Sandpaper. Preferably fine-grained;
  • Hammer;
  • Scissors or a sharpened pocket knife;
  • Ordinary and Phillips screwdriver (needed to dismantle existing fittings);
  • Pliers and pliers. In case you have to remove old nails when cleaning the door leaf;
  • Construction stapler.

Preparing for sheathing

In order for the upholstery to lay on the door leaf smoothly, beautifully, without distortions, the latter must be prepared for the upholstery process. Consider how to sheathe the door step by step:

Having removed the canvas from the hinges, we dismantle all the accessories available on it (latches, locks, handles, a peephole, and so on).

  1. We release it from the old casing, if any.
  2. If there are any significant irregularities on the canvas, for example, residues old paint, then, before sheathe the door with dermantine with our own hands, we clean it all with fine-grained sandpaper.

After all the preparatory operations done, you can, as an additional protection of the door leaf, degrease its surface with any degreasing agent and cover with some antiseptic. After that, the canvas should dry out a little.

Plating process

If it is planned to lay insulation and lining materials, they should be prepared and marked in advance. Further, in fact, the door upholstery with dermantine with your own hands begins.

  1. We measure the height and width of the door leaf.
  2. We mark and cut off the dermantin according to the measurements obtained, not forgetting to make 10-15 cm allowances for each side.
  3. On the pre-prepared door leaf, we evenly spread the marked and cut out cladding material.
  4. On one of the edges of the canvas, we turn it up and fasten it on the other side of the door with stapling brackets. It will not work to sheathe an iron door with such brackets, therefore such canvases are sheathed using special self-tapping screws.
  5. We smooth the upholstery by pulling it over the surface of the door leaf, starting from the fixed edge to the opposite end. After that, we perform step 4 on all other ends. As a result, we get a surface completely covered with dermantine.
  6. The final step of the cladding is the final fixing of the dermantine cladding with curly nails with wide heads.

At the final step of the cladding, when the finishing is almost complete, there is an opportunity to give free rein to your own imagination. To decorate a paneled door with dermantine with your own hands, you can use a variety of decorative corners, slats, curly elements, and so on.

Everything is limited only by the imagination and financial capabilities of the owner. If you wish, by sheathing the door with your own hands with dermantine and decorating it, you can get your own exclusive design of the "gate" of your house.

Source: https://uteplix.com/obyekty/dver/kak-obshit-dveri-dermantinom.html

How to sheathe a door made of wood, metal - video

The simplest and most popular way to give a door an attractive appearance is to upholster or sheathe it with some material. This can be done both indoors and outdoors, you just have to use different materials and different technologies. But in any case, the process is called "door upholstery". All the subtleties and nuances - below.

How can you knock the doors

There are two types of door upholstery - soft and hard. Soft is made of two materials - dermantin (leatherette) and vinyl leather. Dermantin is a woven cotton base covered with a nitrocellulose film. This material was popular in the 40-60s of the last century, as it was practical and inexpensive.

A little later, vinyl leather appeared. This material is made on different bases - woven and non-woven, stretch and not. Accordingly, artificial leather has different properties. A layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC or PVC) is applied to the base. It is more durable, chemically neutral.

It has only one significant drawback - it reacts poorly to ultraviolet rays - it loses its elasticity, changes color, and may crack. Therefore, the upholstery of doors directly onto the street is undesirable with vinyl leather.

Leatherette door upholstery: several options

Now about a little confusion in terminology. Dermantin in its pure form, such as it was in the last century, has not been produced for quite some time. There are different types of vinyl faux leather instead.

There are also materials coated with other polymers, but there are not many of them. From old memory, they are all called dermantin or leatherette (although it is correct, by the way, to say "leatherette" without "n").

Despite the fact that the material is essentially the same, it has different characteristics and appearance. There are elastic types that stretch well, there are hard ones that are difficult to stretch. In addition, modern artificial leather has many colors and shades, it can have a different surface structure:

  • smooth - shiny and matte, there is even a metallic effect;
  • porous;
  • structured, imitating different types of skin (snake, crocodile, etc.).
  • Crocodile skin

So the choice of soft upholstery materials for the door is extensive. Apparently, this is the determining factor in the popularity of this type of door upholstery.

There are more hard upholstery materials for doors, although they are used less often:

  • MDF panels with a thickness of 8 mm to 18 mm;
  • natural wood - fragments, solid wood;
  • veneer;
  • laminate;
  • plastic;
  • postforming.

From this list, most often the doors are trimmed with MDF overlays / panels. Such upholstery is especially popular for decorating metal doors, including homemade ones. The panels are made according to the dimensions of a specific door leaf, after which they are installed on glue or polyurethane foam in fixed starting strips. In this case, it makes sense to make the slopes from MDF.

From the catalog - options for MDF overlays, and all this is still in different colors ...

Practically, the door is also clad with other materials - laminate, plastic, postforming. Starting profiles are installed along the perimeter of the door, into which trim fragments cut to size are inserted. It's simple, if you have basic skills in working with a drill, saw and hammer, you can do it yourself in a few hours.

Door upholstery with dermantin

The most popular way of door trim is with artificial leather. Such a department allows, simultaneously with improving the appearance, to increase the indicators of heat and sound insulation. But this type of door upholstery has its drawbacks - this is the most difficult technological process, which requires at least a general understanding of the procedure.

Upholstery methods

It will be about the technology of door upholstery with dermantine. It can be attached in two ways: with a roller along the perimeter of the door leaf and without it. Depending on this, the order of actions changes (more on this later).

For constrictions, you can use the same material with which the doors were upholstered. It is cut into strips 2.5-3 cm wide, attached to the upper nails, and then by pulling and fixing for the next nails, a pattern is formed.

To fix the strip, you can wrap it around a not completely driven nail, which is then hammered. But this option is suitable if decorative nails have large heads.

If the caps are small, the strips are nailed.

Also, the pattern can be formed using a thin metal flexible cable, but it is more difficult to fix it - it bends worse.

How and what to attach leatherette to the door leaf

If upholstery of a wooden door is necessary, questions usually do not arise - they are fastened with staples from a stapler, then they are nailed along the contour with decorative nails. Only here there are nuances: the staples should be with a wide back (at least 1 mm), and the nails should be wallpaper with a wide head. The installation step of the fasteners is from 2.5 to 7 cm, if desired.

More questions arise when it is necessary to cover an iron door with dermantine. There is only one way out - to put on glue. Glue is usually used "Moment", but you can use any other universal glue that can be used to glue both metal and leatherette.

They grease the strip from the inside (the strip that goes along the perimeter of the door and closes the joint of the canvas with the door frame). When fixing vinyl leather, it is cut out with a margin of 15 cm, just for the fold from both sides to the wrong side.

Materials for heat and noise insulation

Foam rubber is most often used for door insulation. It is inexpensive, if desired, it allows you to form a volumetric convex pattern. The most common case is two layers of foam rubber, 1 cm each.

This option is not the best - the foam rubber has almost no effect on the soundproofing properties of the door, which is sometimes very important.

In addition, after 3-4 years, it loses its elasticity, begins to stick together, it is necessary to do the constriction of the door, although the appearance of the leatherette is still quite decent.

It is used for heat and sound insulation of cars. It is sold in small sheets, an adhesive composition is applied to the back, protected with a plastic wrap. So there will be no problems with the installation. Of the minuses - the price and the rather large weight of the material.

To avoid problems, it is worth replacing the loops with more powerful ones.

There are two other materials used in the automotive industry with similar properties. These are "Splen" and "Vibration filter". All of them are made on an adhesive base and can be used to improve the characteristics of the door.

How to knock a wooden door

It is more convenient to work on a removed door, but if this is a problem, you can also knock on the spot. First, you need to remove all accessories from the door leaf - locks, latches, door peephole.

If there is old upholstery, carefully remove it. If a part of the door requires repair, the damaged fragments are removed, replaced with cut-to-size wooden ones.

The slots can be covered with putty or foamed with polyurethane foam with a low expansion coefficient.

With their help, we will then break through the foam rubber and upholstery in the right places (just press with your fingers, all the layers will be sold). We will pull out the usual nails, in their place we will install decorative ones, with the help of a tape we will form a pattern.

The procedure is simple.

With roller

To make the end of the door look no worse than the rest of the plane, we start with it. If you are not going to finish one of the sides, skip this stage, just paint the butt end with paint to match the finish on one side or the other.

If the doors are upholstered on both sides, we cut out a strip of material about 10 cm wide. More precisely, look at your door, since the thickness of the canvas is different. The strip should cover the end and go on one and the other side by 3-4 cm.

Lay the strip, fasten it along the edge with staples from a stapler (faster and easier) or nails with a large flat head.

A strip of material is also needed to form a roller. Width - 10-15 cm depending on how wide you want the roller. Then there are two options:

  • Directly shape the cushion. To do this, a bundle of foam rubber or batting is laid in the middle of the strip, crimped in the middle. In this form, it is fixed around the perimeter of the door. After, on top, foam rubber and material are laid. The material is folded inward to form a neat edge.
  • The roller is formed immediately, in the finished form is attached along the perimeter of the canvas
  • The roller is formed later, after the vinyl is laid on the canvas. Here the technology is different - the strip is attached around the perimeter, face down. Then the foam rubber is attached and upholstery... The edges are not tucked, just cut to size. After the end, the strip is wrapped in front side(you can put a strip of foam rubber in it), bend and fasten with wallpaper nails.
  • The strip for the roller is fixed in advance, it itself is formed after the upholstery material is fixed

The difference between these two methods is only in appearance: in the first case, nails are nailed along the edge of the upholstery, in the second - along the edge of the roller. They choose who they like best. For example, it seems to me that the first option (on the right) looks better - more accurate. But this is just a personal opinion.

What is this roller for? In order to close possible gaps between the canvas and the jamb. Thus, we avoid the appearance of drafts and reduce heat loss.

But you can make a roller only if the doors are upholstered from the opening side (the doors open inside the apartment, and we upholster them from the inside). If, on the other hand, this trick does not work, it will not close.

Then you have to do without a roller.

Without roller

In this case, everything is simple: the canvas is tucked exactly, fixed with nails or staples - whoever suits best.

Door upholstery process

To reduce the noise level, the doors are upholstered with one layer of sound insulation and one layer of foam rubber. The option with the preliminary production of the cushion is selected. First, they removed the old fittings, cut in a new lock. The pads and the handle were removed, the inner parts remained in place. We proceed to the upholstery of the doors.

We immediately form a roller - we put a narrow foam rubber in a strip of dermantin, fasten it along the perimeter of the door. It is more convenient to do this with staples from a stapler.

The next step is soundproofing. It is glue-based, so there are no problems - they cut it to size, carefully removing the film and glued it. While gluing, we try to squeeze out all the air, for this we tear off the film gradually, ironing the material from edge to edge.

We glue sound insulation

We lay and fasten the foam rubber

Foam rubber is cut out with a small margin, after installation, the excess is cut off.

Tuck the upper edge by 2-3 cm, start fastening from the upper left corner. There we hammer in the first nail, then straighten the material and nail the second one at the top right. Then, in 3-4 cm steps, we nail the upholstery with finishing nails from one edge to the other.

Fasten from the hinge side, turning the edge inward. Spread it straight out so that there are no creases at the top.

We nail from the side of the hinges

Installing padlocks and fittings

How to upholster metal doors

The front part of metal doors is rarely upholstered - it already has a completely attractive appearance. The inner part suffers more often. Let's talk about this.

On the inner side of the iron door there is a frame. In some models it is metal, in others it is wooden. Heat is placed between the frame slats insulating material... It can be polystyrene or rock wool slabs. They are attached to mounting foam, which has a very low coefficient of expansion (required!). From above, everything is closed with a sheet of plywood or OSB.

This is the standard option. If the planks are wooden, everything is fine, there are no problems - the doors will not freeze. But if the frame inside the door is metal, with good frosts everything will freeze through and through - through the bridges of cold, which are metal ribs.

The rest of the processes for upholstering a metal door are very similar to those described above. All the difference is in the method of fixing: the upholstery is glued to a suitable high-quality glue. The excess is immediately cut off at the junction using a sharp wallpaper knife.

This is where the classic mistake was made - there is no layer that cuts off the cold bridges. Otherwise, everything is shown well.

How to sheathe a door - choose the material and do the work yourself

Sooner or later, there comes a time when the front door loses its presentable appearance during operation. Of course, you can replace it with a new one, but if the structure itself is still strong and reliable, it is better to do cosmetic repairs, especially since door trimming with finishing material will be much cheaper.

If you follow the technology, it will not be difficult to sheathe the doors yourself. Consider the features of finishing wooden and metal doors, as well as the nuances of the choice of materials for them.

Choosing a material

The range of finishing materials for doors is great and they all have their pros and cons. In order not to get confused and choose the right one, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of the most popular of them.

Vinylleather

This material is one of the varieties of artificial leather. It is a film applied on top of a fibrous web. The basis for vinyl leather can be paper, knitted fabric or other fabric, which is usually impregnated with special polymer compounds to increase strength.

The material can have various colors and textures, moreover, it has a democratic price and is practical to use. Therefore, vinyl leather upholstery is a good substitute for natural, very expensive material.

Lining

Lining is slats made of wood, MDF or plastic, equipped with special grooves that make it easy to assemble them into a single canvas. It is suitable for finishing both wooden and metal structures, however, it is much more difficult to install it on the latter.

For the outer part of the door, it is preferable to use a material that is resistant to external influences, for example, larch.

But it must be borne in mind that such panels can fade in the sun, therefore, upholstery of doors with plastic clapboard will be unprofitable if they are often exposed to direct sunlight.

Artificial leather

Leatherette is an artificial material that repeats the structure of natural leather. In addition to its attractive appearance, it has other advantages:

  • strength;
  • profitability;
  • easy care.

The disadvantage is sensitivity to temperature extremes and high humidity, which leads to cracking and thereby shortens the life of the coating.

Leatherette

The name of this material comes from the Greek word "dermis", which means leather. In construction terminology, it is customary to call imitation of the skin leatherette. Surely many have heard of him. But why is this material so popular?

The prevalence of leatherette for various finishing works due to its positive qualities, such as:

  • Affordable price... Although you need to understand that Dermatin is a popular material for cladding, that too cheap material will most likely not be of high quality, so it is better to choose trusted manufacturers, even if the cost of their products is slightly higher.
  • Presentable look and variety of shades.
  • High strength and wear resistance.
  • Soundproofing properties.
  • Keeping warm in the house.
  • Easy maintenance (the material is well cleaned and is not afraid of moisture).

Also, leatherette is easy to handle and lay, which allows you to work even without special skills. An additional plus of this coating is vapor permeability, which means that the door under the cladding will be able to "breathe", which means that the wood under it will not damp and become moldy.

Leather

The door, upholstered with natural leather, looks luxurious and emphasizes the wealth of the owners, which is appreciated in some circles of society. The leather cover is also supported by:

But the price of such upholstery will be several times higher than that of various substitutes. Another nuance that should be taken into account is the need for thorough skin care using special means to maintain its elasticity.

PVC film

PVC film, which usually has a self-adhesive backing, is a very practical and inexpensive material. The top layer of this coating can imitate various textures: stone, wood, velor, metal, etc. This film is sold in rolls and is a good way to refresh the surface of a metal or plastic door... Its main advantages:

  • undemanding care;
  • small price;
  • easy installation;
  • moisture resistance;
  • no damage during installation on the glued surface.

True, there are several drawbacks - the inability to hide serious defects in the door leaf and a relatively short service life.

The listed materials are most often used for upholstery and among them there is certainly a solution suitable for your home.

Of course, the final choice depends on your preferences, financial capabilities, the condition of the door and the material from which it is made.

Considering that the correct installation of the coating is no less important than the correctly selected material, below we will consider several ways of sheathing metal and wooden doors using the example of lining and leatherette.

Leatherette upholstery

So, how to sheathe the door with leatherette with your own hands? The process has some differences for wood and metal structures, but the preparation stage and the necessary tools are almost identical in both cases.

Preparing for upholstery

To independently carry out the installation of the coating, you will need the following tools:

  • a sharp stationery knife and large scissors;
  • industrial stapler;
  • hammer;
  • pliers;
  • screwdriver;
  • brush.

Before starting work, you will need to dismantle all the fittings from the door (peephole, handles, lock). Then the structure is removed from the hinges and inspected for any defects, if any were found, then they must be eliminated.

Next, the leatherette needs to be cut off according to the size of the door, making an allowance of 10-15 cm on all sides. In addition, you cannot do without cushioning material, which will give the upholstery the right volume. If the door is located not inside the dressing room, but goes out into the street, then it is advisable to take care of its insulation. This function can be performed by the following materials:

  • Isolontape - has a long service life (about 70 years), effective, but quite expensive;
  • foam rubber - can last about 15 years and has average heat retention rates;
  • batting - service life is 30 years, has good performance, but makes the door structure somewhat heavier.

Wood door upholstery

The upholstery process begins with laying on the prepared door leaf a heater cut to the size of the structure. The material must be fixed with a construction stapler or nails, before that it is worth lubricating the door surface with glue for a more durable fixation.

The upholstery fabric is laid in such a way that the overlap is the same on all sides. Then the edges are folded inward, observing the uniformity of the fold of the fabric and its tension.

Once the fabric is securely in place, you can pattern the cover using decorative tape and upholstery nails. Ready-made patterns are shown below, but you can also invent something new, focusing on your taste and imagination.

Metal door upholstery

The upholstery of a metal door is done in a slightly different way, but this process is even easier than in the case of wood. After all, you don't have to nail leatherette to the metal, and it is this part of the work that is the most laborious.

After preparing the door leaf, which is identical to that described above, the door is removed from the hinges and placed in a horizontal position.

The insulation is attached to the metal with glue, trying to install it correctly the first time in order to avoid further displacement.

Then the leatherette itself (part of the material with an overlap) is attached to the ends of the door, smeared with glue. It is better to start from the top, then fix the material from the side of the hinges and the lock, and complete the installation with the bottom end. At the same time, it is important to avoid the appearance of folds and distortions.

After the glue has dried, remove excess material with a sharp utility knife and reinstall the fittings.

This completes the work, and your front door not only looks updated, but also provides additional heat preservation in the house.

Door paneling with clapboard

Another way to inexpensively and tastefully update the door structure is to make doors from the lining with your own hands.

Where do you start? For wooden panels, the following advice is relevant: if the finishing material was stored outside the house, but will be used for interior cladding, then a few hours before the start of work it is worth bringing it inside the room in which the finishing is planned. This will allow the wood to adapt to moisture and temperature.

Wooden door

To trim a wooden door, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • panels from the selected material;
  • measuring instruments (tape measure, level);
  • pencil;
  • suitable cutting tool;
  • screwdriver;
  • planer and sandpaper;
  • screws or nails;
  • varnish and brushes.

The preparatory work is similar to that performed when upholstering with leatherette. The door leaf will also need to be dismantled, cleaned and the hardware removed. Then you need to decide on the direction of the sheathing - it will be horizontal or vertical.

The lining begins to be mounted from the lower edge of the door, checking the accuracy of its location with a level. It is better to fasten the material with special finishing nails, which will stand out less against the background of the coating, but self-tapping screws can also be used.

During installation, the panels are fastened close, inserting each subsequent one into the connector of the previous one, and the sides are closed with special corners. After finishing the main work, the lining can be opened with varnish. Then, after waiting for it to dry completely, fittings are installed on the door, and the structure itself is returned to its place.

Metal door with lining trim

Metal doors lined with clapboard, in view of the strength of the metal, will be a little more difficult to make. To fix the panels, you will have to build wooden frame, attached to the door structure, and already mount the finishing material on it.

To make a frame you need:

  • bars or slats made of wood;
  • drill and screwdriver;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • saw;
  • pencil and tape measure.

The slats must be adjusted to the dimensions of the door (length and width). Then drill holes in them for the diameter of the self-tapping screws, attach the frame components to the door surface and apply marks to the metal through these holes. In the designated places, the metal structure will also need to be drilled.

Further, the frame elements are attached to the door leaf with self-tapping screws. The resulting structure can perform another function - to serve as the basis for laying insulation. If you want to reduce heat loss, the selected heat-insulating material is placed between the frame slats.

The next stage of work is finishing. The panels are mounted in the same way as described for a wooden door and using similar materials.

Lining panels are a good solution for finishing and simultaneously insulating the door

Decorating a door is a fun and creative process, but a responsible one.

A serious approach and a little training before starting finishing work will allow you to translate your ideas into reality, and the result will be a cause for pride.

Metal door trim

Any front door is the hallmark of your home, and all tenants of the apartment certainly want the entrance to the dwelling, from the outside, to seem strong and beautiful.

Because it often fully characterizes the owner of the apartment. With a wooden door, everything is very simple and easy - after installing it, you will need to treat the surface a little with wood stain or varnish.

To protect your home from unfamiliar guests, not only an angry dog, but also an iron door will help you.

All entrance doors, most often, are purchased from already finished finishing... But the door trim is so primitive and simple in execution, especially often seen on inexpensive types of entrance doors, that most buyers will immediately want to remake it in their own way.

For these purposes, it is necessary to use a variety of materials, which are divided into groups according to the type of installation and methods of application.

MDF

MDF metal door sheathing is the most widespread and well-known method of door leaf processing. This wood fiber material can be divided into the following types:

  1. colored.
  2. veneered.
  3. laminated.

Painted MDF - this type of material, in the case of our canvas, it is advisable not to use, because there are no high strength properties on its painted surface. It is best used for indoor work.

Laminated MDF panels are moderately moisture resistant and have a large margin of safety. The first layer of the panel is made of PVC and has an excellent decorative property: it is distinguished by a smooth surface and a variety of textures, with an imitation of natural wood.

Sheathing of metal MDF doors with overlays is what is really used as upholstery of the door leaf.

Very rarely used veneer from expensive wood species - ash, beech or mahogany. Accordingly, the cost of MDF linen increases.

Laminate

Also, the cladding of metal doors is upholstered with laminate, which is used, as a rule, as a floor covering. It differs slightly in composition from laminated MDF, but it has a relatively large margin of safety.

As a basis for the laminate, a fibreboard is used, with a significant density. It is bonded together with paper layers, and treated with melamine or acrylic resin - a material that resembles a "layer cake" is obtained.

Since the laminate is not affected by ultraviolet rays, vibration temperature regime and high humidity, it is easy for them to knock off not only the entrance to the housing, but also the entrance to the cottage, which is located on the street.

Powder coated

Powder-coated metal doors are sheathed in a special way, in a factory.

This coating method is of the highest quality, while applying special technology painting powder paint on the surface of the door leaf, which is applied using the method of electrostatic spraying, and then the metal is baked in an industrial oven at a high temperature.

Spraying with a special powder is not subject to mechanical stress, has dielectric and antistatic characteristics.

A huge selection of colors will help to update the appearance of your door and choose any imitation - leather, granite or gold.

Coating with this paint is the most expensive type of finish. If you wish to decorate a metal sheet with forged elements, then the price will directly depend on the complexity of such elements.

Sheathing of a metal sheet with clapboard

Sheathing of a metal sheet is usually sheathed with a wooden lining.

This type of boards is made from a variety of wood species, for this reason, the consumer will be able to choose and purchase a really high-quality and relatively inexpensive material for decoration.

If you are covering the door using lining, then here you can become a real designer. The slats can be distributed at different angles, as well as decorative strips, carved, burned out, or simply painted on.

You already have a question: "How to sheathe a metal door with wooden clapboard?" After all, a tree cannot be nailed to a metal surface.

For the manufacture of a noise-suppressing layer, it is recommended to fill the cavity inside the structure with insulation.

We have shared with you the most famous upholstery techniques. There are still other types, these are: vinyl, dermantin and leather.

In the 90s, the cladding of a metal door with dermantine was very popular among the people. This type of upholstery is the most economical, but also proven to be the most impractical.

The most expensive finishing of the door leaf is considered to be the finishing of the solid oak. This method is uneconomical, due to the fact that this finishing technology can only be applied in production - it is rather difficult to work with this tree at home.

How do you attach the cladding panels?

The solution to this issue depends entirely on the state of the canvas itself and the right choice material and method of upholstery.

  • If the cladding is made of MDF or laminate, then these panels must be attached using metal glue:
  • For good adhesion of materials, you will need to prime the surface of the door leaf. This is a forced measure, without it, the connection of metal and panels may be short-lived.
  • It is possible to use liquid nails to attach trim parts. For a firm attachment of the decorative layer, it can be fixed using metal corners.
  • The lining can also be fixed in the same way. But panels made of natural wood are much heavier in weight than a panel made of MDF, so if you nail it down, its fixation will be much stronger.
  • In other cases, fastening with glue is much more convenient and practical, since nails can only spoil the lining.

As you have already seen, replacing the cladding is not such a difficult job that a beginner and a professional can handle.

And finally, the most important thing is the slopes

If you decide to independently install the door, or improve the appearance of the old one, then this work will not be completed if the slopes are incorrectly plastered. The slope is that part of the wall structure that frames the door leaf around the entire perimeter.

When dismantling the door leaf, the slopes may have a defect, both cosmetic and constructive. They are finished immediately after the installation of your door, while the assembly seam is strengthened. In this case, several finishes are used. Mini-instructions, which indicate the methods by which the slope is finished, is given below in the article:

  • The simplest and most economical option is surface plastering. To do this, you need a special tool - a template.
  • The template will be needed so that the angles at the slopes are accurate and even.
  • First of all, the slope is plastered from above, and then the side ones. When the work is finished, it will take time so that the plaster can dry completely, and after that you can walk on its surface with sandpaper. And finally, cover it with a primer - and then paint it, or stick wallpaper.
  • If you have no desire to deal with plaster, then you can trim the slopes with plastic sheets or use drywall.

The choice of material for them is selected based on the type of finish of the door leaf or the nature of the wall adjoining it.

  • If we talk about the side of the slope that goes to the entrance, then we need: either plaster the slope, or use drywall, and then paint it with water emulsion. Plastic slopes can be used in the decoration of those parts that are located in the apartment itself or in the hallway.
  • In order for the slopes to look harmonious after installing the door leaf, it is necessary for them to use the materials with which you trimmed it. Laminate and MDF panels, in their structure, resemble the texture of a tree, then in this case you can trim the slopes using these materials, having previously selected the material by color.
  • To make the wooden slopes on your canvas look elegant, you need not forget about the assembly seams. They will need to be sealed with foam and cut off the excess.
  • At the very beginning, the upper slope is established. It must be fixed with self-tapping screws or glued - the caps of the self-tapping screws will need to be hidden under decorative plugs. The seams at the slopes are treated with a transparent silicone sealant and then plastic corners or platbands are installed.

In this article, we shared with you how easy and simple you can knock your front door on your own, and let it find a second life. Repairing metal door trim is not the worst thing in your apartment.

Upholstery of metal doors - a detailed analysis of the most popular options

Suppose you decide to make a steel door yourself or want to buy one, but the upholstery of metal doors in a store leaves much to be desired. Do not worry, it is not so difficult to sheathe a metal door yourself, and then we will tell you in detail how to sheathe the front door and the slopes to it on both sides, with all the pros and cons of the options that exist today.

The upholstery of the entrance metal door speaks of the status of the owner of the house.

What doors are being trimmed with now

First of all, remember, the metal door trim is outside and decorative trim from the inside it is not the same at all. Even if visually the materials look the same, the characteristics or at least the level of processing are completely different.

After all, do not forget, we are talking about entrance doors, where outside the cladding is regularly poured with rain, freezes and roasts in the sun, and from the inside, the finishing of metal doors is in the comfortable conditions of a residential building. By the way, at this address you can find out about the insulation of iron doors with your own hands.

Laminate

Finishing metal doors with laminate flooring has long ceased to be a curiosity. After all flooring initially designed for fairly serious loads:

Finishing an iron door with a floor laminate is a good and inexpensive option.

  • It will not be difficult to wash an iron door, finished with a laminate from whitewash, to clean it from dirt or traces of shoes, because on the floor this coating is subjected to even greater tests;
  • Any laminate can easily withstand the claws of pets, even a large dog is not able to scratch such a coating;
  • A big plus in terms of design is the same finish of the floor, slopes and door leaf;
  • The thickness of the slats ranges from 6 to 12 mm, the weight of the cladding is also not great, which is an additional plus when choosing;
  • The strips are connected according to the thorn-groove principle, and after splicing they form a smooth monolithic surface, in which even the seams are hardly probed;
  • To fix it on the canvas, it is enough to clean and process the steel sheet with soil, after which you can safely glue the strips, for example, on liquid nails;
  • If the doors are not sheathed from the inside with a solid steel sheet, then the laminate strips are attached to the bars of the inner lathing, and in order to hide the impartial cut and self-tapping screws, a plastic U-shaped profile is glued along the edge.

To decorate the door from the inside with a floor laminate is quite real for an amateur.

Now let's move on to the "pitfalls", there are also enough of them here. Start with the fact that floor laminate, no matter how expensive and elegant it was, it was originally created as an internal coating, which means on sharp drops temperatures, frost and excessive humidity, it is not calculated.

Accordingly, they can only trim the doors from the inside. Exterior finishing is possible only in multi-storey buildings with relatively warm entrances.

If you decide to opt for a laminate, then keep in mind: this material is divided into 7 classes. If the marking starts with 2, then this material made for apartments and private houses (21,22,23). Everything that starts with a three (31,32,33,34) is designed for commercial organizations, offices and shopping centers.

The classification of laminate flooring depends on the level of wear resistance.

When buying, you do not need to listen to the persuasion of a consultant. The fact is that visually the 21st and 34th grades may be no different, and if you are not going to dance on your doors or wash them out of the fire hose, then take the twenty-first grade, and the thinnest slats (6 mm), the price will please you.

MDF panels

MDF panels are one-piece large door plates, professionals call these panels cards. Now the upholstery of a metal door with such cards occupies almost half of the market.

Decorating entrance metal doors with MDF panels is now considered the most popular.

The material itself is made from wood dust and, according to the manufacturers, does not contain any harmful additives.

Wood dust is poured into molds, pressed and roasted under high pressure, as a result, natural lignin glue is released from it, which turns the pressed mass into a monolithic sheet.

Before sheathe the canvas, you need to decide which panel you want to see. You can sheathe an entrance metal door with pure MDF, laminated or veneered.

To be honest, clean MDF sheets are not suitable for ennobling the door leaf. The top layer of the sheet is practically unprotected, its appearance is rather mediocre and the maximum that you can do it with something to paint, while you will not achieve much beauty.

The most common is laminated MDF; these cards have quite a few advantages:

  • Laminated MDF card is fade resistant;
  • Decorating a metal door with your own hands will not be difficult for you, and both external and internal decoration are performed equally simply;
  • For finishing work you need a minimum of tools. If you only veneer the door leaf, without slopes, then a drill and a screwdriver are enough;
  • It is as easy to launder an MDF card from stains and other troubles as laminate flooring;
  • The door trim does not require additional adjustment and rework, the product is immediately sold with fixed dimensions according to door standards. If your canvas is not standard, then you can use several small cards or order a panel according to your size;
  • In serial factory doors, MDF panels are inserted into special grooves, so before disassembling the old door, see if you have such grooves. The principle is simple, the side clamp is removed, after which the old panel is moved to the side and pulled out, and the new one is inserted in its place.

Decor options for MDF door cards. The result of the wrong choice of MDF cards.

In the elite sector, MDF panels covered with natural wood veneer are used for finishing entrance doors. Veneer is a thin cut of wood, so if you paste over an MDF panel with it, it will not differ in any way from a natural board.

It turns out that for reasonable money you will make yourself elite wooden doors, for example, from oak. Of course, a veneered card is not cheap, but compared to a natural solid, the difference will be at least 2 times.

Veneered MDF panels are practically indistinguishable from natural wood.

Most European companies produce cards covered with so-called eco veneer. If you do not go into details and brush off the advertising tinsel, then eco veneer is just high-quality plastic, which contains a certain percentage of wood.

The story is about the same with the multispon, but it can be seen with the naked eye. The drawing there is quite abstract, cubes, waves, mugs and a lot of other options, but this is natural wood, only pressed, glued and cut, here it is already not for everybody.

Leather upholstery

Many people associate quilted door trim with Soviet design. Indeed, if you take cheap dermantine and upholstery doors with it, then the view will not be the best, but do not rush to discard this option, with a reasonable approach, quilted upholstery can look luxurious.

Doors trimmed with natural soft leather are now not found because it is very expensive. For the upholstery, a new material called eco-leather is used, this material is a synthetic covering that visually and to the touch is no different from real leather.

In addition to a solid appearance, quilted cladding has 2 tangible advantages: firstly, it is additional insulation, and secondly, serious noise insulation. Although for domestic cats and dogs, quilted upholstery is the first in line to break.

The carriage coupler belongs to the elite finishing of the entrance doors.

The easiest way is to take eco-leather and sheathe a sheet of plywood with it, and use foam rubber as a filler. If you want to get a really luxurious door, then there is a carriage coupler for this, it is more difficult to make it, but the result is worth it.

If you decide to buy soft panels for doors, then keep in mind: high-quality upholstery is made from a solid canvas. If you are offered a quilted panel sewn from pieces, then know that this is a cheap, low quality item.

Powder coating

Do-it-yourself powder painting of doors cannot be done at home. This is a high-tech process, the metal is cleaned, processed and a special paint is applied, after which the door is “roasted” in ovens, as a result, the surface acquires a unique protection.

A fine-crystalline film forms on the metal surface, which is easy to clean and reliably protects doors from corrosion. Manufacturers claim that such a lining cannot be scratched, we do not know if these assurances are true, but the powder paint withstands animal claws without problems.

Hammer paint is a good alternative to powder coating.

Hammer paint can be a good alternative to powder painting; you can use it to paint doors with your own hands, and at the same time, the appearance will not be worse than that of powder spraying. At "this address" you will learn how to properly disassemble doors, how to clean metal from rust, and most importantly, how to paint the doors yourself.

Lining

Lining for different types finishes have been used for about 100 years and despite such an advanced age, it is still in the lead. Neat wooden planks are connected using the tongue-and-groove technology. The lining has a lot of advantages.

  • Clapboard can be used for both external and internal decoration of doors, although for external decoration the tree will have to be treated with complex primer and varnished for external work;
  • The material is 100% environmentally friendly;
  • Natural wood will never go out of fashion; with proper care, such doors will always look fresh and original;
  • The lining installation technology is quite simple and accessible to anyone home master, we can assure you that even if you have never dealt with clapboard, during the day you will go around your front door with it;
  • The planks can be combined as you like, as a result your door will have an original pattern.

When decorating iron doors with clapboard, novice craftsmen often do not know how to fix the slats on the metal. So from the inside, the lining is sutured to a pre-fixed wooden crate, which in turn is attached to the stiffeners and the inner frame of the doors.

The outer cladding is prepared separately, first the lining is screwed with small screws to the plywood sheet, and then this shield is attached to the metal sheet. In order to securely fix the front panel, it will be necessary to drill a dozen holes in the metal sheet and screw it on the inside with self-tapping screws.

By the way, lining is not only wooden, now they produce many options for plastic lining. Theoretically, it is possible to sheathe doors with plastic, but not everyone likes such a cladding, plus the strength of the plastic is not high.

A few words about finishing slopes

Slopes are the part of the wall that frames the doors or windows, respectively, until the slopes are made, the door cladding cannot be considered finished. In this case, experts identify 4 running options for facing slopes.

  1. Plastering is considered the most reliable and durable. Such a slope will stand for more than a dozen years, but not everyone can handle plastering work, plus it is a rather dirty process;
  2. Plasterboard covering of slopes is considered no less reliable. GKL sheets can be either mounted on the crate, or glued to a special building mixture, but after installation, the drywall must be filled with plaster;
  3. Another popular way of finishing door slopes is mounting on the battens. It's simple, a crate is stuffed onto the slope, and already on the crate you can attach whatever you think is necessary - plastic, MDF, gypsum board, plywood, lining, etc.
  4. But the most popular option now is telescopic MDF slopes. They are a kind of constructor. Depending on the thickness of the wall, the width of the additional strip is chosen and the entire structure is installed in a couple of hours, the only problem is that the telescopic slopes are much more expensive than the others.

The choice of upholstery for metal doors is a responsible matter, because it largely indicates the status of the owner. When making a decision, carefully weigh all the pros and especially the cons of the materials described above and let your door be the most beautiful in the area.

If the theater begins with a coat rack, then any home from the front door. It is good if the door is solid, capable not only of ensuring the safety of the apartment, but also of keeping warm. But what if the door leaf has already lost its previous appearance? Through the cracked cracks, warmth will go away in winter, and an untidy entrance from guests can cause the same opinion about the owners themselves. The solution to the problem can be the upholstery of the door with leather.

Choice of materials

The ideal material is leatherette, genuine leather is a very expensive pleasure. Today the choice of leatherette is wide both in color and quality. It should be taken with an allowance of 30-35 cm larger than the dimensions of the door itself. For the manufacture of rollers, you will also need 3 strips of 15 cm wide.


The insulation is used sheet felt, synthetic winterizer or foam rubber. Depending on the intended volumetric pattern on the door, the thickness varies. The pattern is made using a fishing line or thin wire and nails with various decorative hats. You will also need thin bundles of foam rubber or expanded polystyrene with diameters up to 20 mm.

Surface preparation


First of all, it is necessary to dismantle all removable elements: door handles, peephole, lock covers. Then, if the door was previously padded, you must remove the old upholstery, then inspect the canvas and remove the remaining nails and staples.

The cleaned canvas should be treated with anti-fungal compounds. After that, the door is removed from the hinges, and all subsequent work is performed on a horizontal surface.

Upholstery

Door upholstery can be performed not only from the outside, but also from the inside. At interior cladding along the perimeter of the door leaf with the help of a stapler, additional insulation elements are mounted. To do this, it is better to use ready-made foam rubber bands wrapped in leatherette strips.


It should be remembered that the rollers should protrude 20 mm beyond the dimensions of the door, blocking the gap between the door leaf and the door frame. On the hinges, the roller should completely overlap them. Start at the top right corner. Then vertical harnesses are attached, while the lower roller should not rub against the floor.



Upholstery is laid. It should be wrapped around the insulation, shot with a stapler. Decorative nails are driven along the perimeter at an equal distance from each other.


Before starting the cladding of the outer side, markings should be made, outlining the perimeter of the closed door along the perimeter of the box. This is the border of the future upholstery. Having retreated another 10mm, the insulation is attached. After that, a leatherette is nailed along the line, with a bend in the edges, as is the case with the inner upholstery.


Finally, handles and a peephole are attached.

Wooden front doors are a very finicky part of our apartments. They need constant care, protection and restoration. Of course, few of us devote the proper amount of time and attention to this subject. That is why they often deteriorate or simply lose their presentable appearance. There is not always a desire and opportunity to replace the old wood product for a new one.

But you can always update it with your own hands video, give it a fresh look and aesthetics, covering it with leatherette. How to sheathe a door with dermantin? There are many video tutorials on how to do it yourself properly. And with the help of a clear step by step instructions it will not be difficult to do this even for people who do not have special skills and abilities. Moreover, the result will be not only external beauty, but also noise and heat insulation.

Prepare all materials and tools before starting work. The choice of material is so great that it makes sense to think about the future design of the door in advance. Otherwise, you will go and choose for a very long time. You will also need 2 centimeters thick foam rubber and batting, a construction stapler, a hammer, large scissors, and regular and furniture nails. First you need to prepare the door. To do this, dismantle the door handle, peephole, hinges and all decorative elements.

Step-by-step instructions: do-it-yourself upholstery of a wooden door with dermantine video

Let's take up the production of the so-called roller, it serves as the main element of the upholstery and closes the gap between the door leaf and the jamb. Using scissors, cut a strip of leatherette 10 cm wide.Then place it with the wrong side up along the perimeter of the door leaf and attach it with a construction stapler. Instead of a stapler, you can use a regular hammer and small nails.

In order to avoid uneven distribution of material in the places where the door hinges are fixed, it is necessary to make cuts on the leatherette strip. Now you can start fixing the foam rubber. Lay it flat on the surface of the wooden door and secure with a stapler. Next, put the batting in 2 layers on the foam layer. Batting is a reliable protection of foam rubber and protects it, increasing wear resistance and service life.

Now you can start cutting leatherette. Cut off a piece of door-sized canvas, adding 4 centimeters on each side. Lay the cladding evenly on the door leaf and start nailing in with furniture nails. You should start from the center, first at the top of the wooden canvas, then at the bottom. Remember to stretch the material well by hand to eliminate any unevenness. Next, continue attaching the leatherette around the perimeter of the door, slightly tucking the cut edges.

Now that the door looks pretty enough, it remains to finish the work with the rollers. Twist the batting that remained after the door trim into a tube and wrap it in strips of leatherette nailed to the door at the very beginning of the work. Nail the resulting roller with furniture nails in 7-10 centimeters increments.

This completes the upholstery of the door with your own hands video. It remains only to replace the peephole, the hinges, doorknob and all the decorative elements that were on the door earlier. Now you can enjoy not only the neat new look of the front door, but also your skill.

If you add a little more imagination, you can use metal thread and nails to create an interesting pattern that will add personality to your door. In order for everything to succeed, see how to properly upholster the door leaf with your own hands video.

No matter how expensive and high-quality the door is, after some time it will lose its original appearance and will require restoration. The easiest way to give a door a second life is to upholster it. A variety of materials can be used for door trim. The technology of work from the upholstery material practically does not change. Check out the instructions provided and you can easily do your DIY repairs.

For self-upholstery of doors, a variety of various materials, namely:

  • PVC film;
  • leather;
  • dermantin;
  • vinyl leather.

The last option from the list is the most preferred. Vinyl leather is superior to leatherette and artificial leather in the main quality characteristics and is cheaper than genuine leather.

Upholstery material can be purchased at a specialist shop for cut. In general, the size of the cut should be about 15 cm larger than the dimensions of the door on each side.

Upholstery will require you to make special upholstery rolls. In total, you need to prepare three strips with a width of about 100-150 mm. Select the height individually in accordance with the height of your door structure.

Choose a lining material. The budget option is foam rubber. A lining 1-2 cm thick is enough.

If you want to improve the sound and heat insulation characteristics of the door, use Izolon instead of foam rubber. This is very practical material with excellent performance and properties. It costs a little more than simple foam rubber and significantly surpasses it in all characteristics.

Additionally, you will need to buy various small accessories, the same decorative nails. A huge selection of such products is available on sale in a wide variety of color variations. Choose according to your taste.

If you wish, you can buy upholstery nails, originally upholstered in leather or leatherette. They will be invisible on the main door leaf, which is the right solution in many situations.

In general, try to choose nails that are as close to the color of the upholstery as possible. After restoration, the door should have a harmonious appearance, unless otherwise provided by your design project.

The work on the self-upholstery of the door is carried out using glue. You can buy the most ordinary glue like "Moment", etc. One side of the door leaf will take about 100 ml of glue.

In the process of self-upholstering a door made of wood, no difficulties should arise. Understand the instructions provided, understand the difference between sheathing the outer and inner planes of the canvas and get to work.

Interior finish of a wooden door

This method is suitable for finishing those models that open inward, i.e. into the space of the room.

First step. Make a special roller. With this element, you will hide the gap between the door frame and the door leaf itself. Also, in some situations, the roller will help the web to adhere more tightly to the frame.

Second step. Attach a strip of upholstery to the face of the door so that it is about 35-40mm on the base. Fixation with a special stapler.

If overhead locks are installed on the door, start attaching material from it. In case your locks are mortise, the fastening should start slightly below the central part of the long side of the door. Upholste the entire perimeter of the canvas with similar stripes.

Step three. Apply foam or other chosen filler. Pre-cut the material into strips about 100 mm wide. Use the same stapler to attach the pad. The resulting roller should protrude approximately 10-40 mm, depending on the peculiarities of the ratio of the door itself and decorative platbands. This completes the roller.

Stage four. Measure the space between the inner edges of the roller you created and cut out a strip of thick foam. Subtract 10 mm on each side from the previously measured roller to determine the appropriate strip width. Attach the finished foam strip.

Fifth stage. Proceed directly to the door trim. Take a piece of the selected upholstery material by the corner, carefully tuck its edges about 6 cm and lay it in the corner of the door leaf so that the upholstery slightly overlaps the surface of the previously prepared roller.

Drive in a decorative nail about 0.5 cm from the edge.

Take the upholstery material by the second top corner, tuck it in the same way, and hammer in the second decorative nail, while pulling the upholstery slightly.

Make sure the upholstery piece is laid flat. To do this, run your hand along the center line of the door with a small clip, reach the bottom and, firmly holding the upholstery with your hand, attach its lower corners to the edges of the door. If the distance is the same at both ends, you can continue working. If there are discrepancies, the fastening of the upholstery will have to start over, otherwise it will be uneven and ugly at the end.

Nail the upper edge of the canvas with decorative nails in 1 cm increments.Further, according to the same scheme, finish any side part by carefully tucking the upholstery material at an equal distance and pulling it slightly.

Walk to the bottom edge and move on to finishing the second side piece. At the end, fix the lower free edge with a stapler. This completes the self-paneling. Go to the installation of the peephole and old or new locks.

If the door structure consists of two leaves, the restoration is carried out in the same manner. An important nuance consists only in the fact that the vertical roller needs to be equipped on a sash with a handle.

Video - DIY door upholstery

Finishing the outside of a wooden door

This is an instruction manual for structures that come off outward.

First step. Close the door and transfer the projection of its box directly onto the canvas. This will give you the outline of the new upholstery. The margin around the edges is required for the “quarter”.

Second step. Secure the padding material approximately one centimeter away from the marked line.

Step three. Just as in the previous instructions, nail in the main piece of upholstery, leaving the bottom edge unlocked.

Fourth step. Make a heat-insulating roller. For outdoor upholstery, it is attached to the box, not to the canvas. It is made in almost the same way as when performing inner upholstery, only the volume of inner foam rubber needs to be slightly increased.

Position the roller on the hinge side so that it is flush with the door frame. In relation to the lock side and the upper part, the roller must be extended by 0.5 cm. Attach the lower side of the finished roller to the door leaf so that when closed it is tightly pressed against the door sill.

If you attach the roller directly to the threshold, it will fray very quickly due to being caught by your feet.

Fifth step. Secure the bottom edge of the upholstery with a construction stapler, and then install locks, new or old handles, a peephole and, if necessary, decorative elements.

There are two main options for cladding a metal door structure: a budget one using materials such as vinyl leather, dermantine and the like, and a more expensive one using decorative panels. Read the instructions for each of them and choose the option that suits you.

Video - Upholstery and insulation of metal doors

Budgetary way

Restoration of metal doors can be carried out using the same materials as wood canvases. However, in this case, there is no need to use decorative carnations - everything is done with glue.

First step. Thoroughly grease the edges of the door leaf with quality glue and fix the foam strips on it. Cut off excess lining along the door profile.

Second step. Apply the adhesive to the end of the top of the door and proceed with the bonding of the selected upholstery material. First glue the top, then the door hinges, then glue the locks, and finally the bottom of the door. Smooth out wrinkles and get rid of distortions of the material directly in the process.

Step three. After the glue is completely dry (the drying time is indicated in the instructions for a particular product), cut off any excess material, if present, using a sharp utility knife. Be careful not to damage the main upholstery.

Fourth step. Install the peephole, handles and replace the locks.

Expensive way

This method involves the upholstery of the metal structure with special panels. For outdoor upholstery, the best choice is made of MDF. They are manufactured in several standard sizes... After such upholstery, the door will look no worse than expensive factory-made counterparts.

Do interior decoration wall panels... Select the upholstery material in accordance with the interior of the room and the features of the door operation. MDF has a more attractive appearance, often imitating the texture of exclusive and expensive wood, but this material needs to be treated with care. Plastic panels are much easier to maintain, but not as beautiful.

First step. Measure your metal drill. You need to know the width and exact height of the canvas. On the inside of the door, you will find corners designed to increase the rigidity of the door structure. The width of such corners corresponds to the depth of the door leaf. You also need to fix this parameter in measurements. You will need it when buying foam sheets and wooden beams.

Determine the inner height of the web as the distance from the bottom to the top corner. The width of the inner surface, respectively, will be equal to the distance between the side metal corners. Record the measurement results.

Second step. Go to the building store along with the results of previous measurements. Buy polystyrene there, panels from the selected material, wooden bar and decorative corner with a 10-15 percent margin.

Step three. Return home and proceed to decorate the door. First, cut the block into 4 pieces. The length of these segments should correspond to the width of the door leaf.

Take a block, attach it to the upper edge of the canvas and, using a marker or pencil, draw a line along this block on the base. Do the same at the bottom of the canvas. Place the remaining blocks on the door so that all 4 blocks are placed at approximately the same distance as a result. Leave the appropriate labels.

Fourth step. Armed with an electric drill, make 16 mounting holes in your door. There should be 4 holes for each block. The diameter of these holes should be equal to the diameter of the screws.

Fifth step. Fix the bars to the canvas with self-tapping screws. This will give you a skeleton.

Sixth step. Drill the fixing holes for fixing the upholstery panel. The optimal number of holes for mounting each such panel, as a rule, is given by the manufacturer in the accompanying instructions.

Seventh step. Prepare peephole holes, locks and handles in the cladding panel.

Eighth stage. Fix the panel. For more convenience, you can remove the door leaf from the hinges.

Move on to the upholstery of the inside of the door leaf.

First step. Attach the frame bars to the canvas as you did with the outer upholstery.

Second step. Cut the foam into pieces, focusing on the distance between the frame bars. Make holes for the peephole, handles and door locks in the corresponding parts of the foam.

Step three. Place the Styrofoam sheets in the spaces between all the sticks. Additionally, you can fix the foam with quality glue.

Fourth step. Attach the inner panels to the frame. Plastic panels are fixed with a stapler, while MDF panels are fixed with clamps.

Fifth step. Secure the decorative corner from suitable material along the perimeter of the door leaf. It will hide the edges of the upholstery and give the door a more attractive appearance.

Sixth step. Put a peephole, handles, locks, if necessary, replace the platbands.

These simple instructions will allow you to update the appearance of your door with minimal financial and time costs.

Happy work!

Video - How to upholster a door with your own hands

The older generation remembers well that in the early 80s, the cladding of the front door with dermantine was considered the highest chic of the apartment owners. After all, a simple citizen of the country could not afford such a finishing option. And not because there was no money for the material. The problem was that it was possible to buy dermantin only for a very large "pull" - there was practically no free sale of it.

With the collapse of the country, the material became more accessible and immediately millions of doors in the open spaces the former Soviet Union got such a tight fit. However, at the beginning of the new century, interest in dermantin dropped sharply due to the relatively low aesthetic and technical characteristics of the material, and the doors, upholstered with it, began to be classified as provincial. The explanation is simple: unpresentable upholstery with an inexpressive texture and faded colors began to lose to competitors.

Everything has changed again in the last few years. A material appeared on the market with an excellent texture like natural leather and a stable color. The result is that upholstery is back in vogue.

Why Dermantin

Before giving an answer to the simple question of why dermantin is popular again, it is necessary first to clarify the very concept of "dermantin", because there are many nuances, as well as analyze its advantages over other types of finishing materials.

Dermantin is what?

Wikipedia gives the following explanation for dermantin - it is a material made of cotton and nitrocellulose, applied on one or two sides. Refers to one of the types of artificial leather. It is used in various sectors of the national economy.

However, over time, both finishers and sellers began to call all types of leather obtained artificially dermantine (the synecdoche principle worked, when the name of the private is transferred to a more general category or vice versa). Confirmation of this is the price tags in stores where artificial leathers are mainly dermantin, but with a different composition of the material.

Types of leatherette

For door upholstery, you can choose dermantin for every taste, starting with the price and ending appearance... Most popular: nitro leather, vinyl leather, eco leather and recycled leather.

Nitro leather. The simplest, at the same time, the cheapest type of dermantin (in the classical sense) is nitroskin. It is a cotton fabric (twill, technical fabric) covered with a nitrocellulose film on one or both sides. Depending on the scope of application, prices for it can range from 160 to 750 rubles / m2.

The upholstery material has an aesthetic perception, specifications and the service life (wears out quickly) correspond to the price - are at a low level.

Vinyl leather. The manufacturers took into account the disadvantages of classic dermantin and began to apply a film of monolithic or porous polyvinyl chloride to the fabric. Such a coating is resistant to abrasion, changes in temperature and humidity, while it has a rather attractive appearance - it imitates natural leather. It has a large gap in prices, but this is dictated by the price of the material used as a base: knitwear, woven and non-woven materials made from natural or artificial fibers.

Acceptable quality vinyl-leather upholstery can be bought for 250-650 rubles / m2.

Eco leather. Application of polyurethane to cotton fabric or polyester gives a completely new type of dermantin - eco-leather. It has a lot of advantages: high elasticity, wear resistance, air permeability (the material breathes), strength, etc. But the main highlight is the texture. Increasing the thickness of the polymer layer followed by pressure treatment results in a material that cannot be distinguished visually or tactilely from natural leather.

The doors, upholstered in eco-leather, look chic. The price of the material is fully consistent with its quality - from 450 to 1,100 rubles / m2.

Recycled leather. The classification of recycled leather as dermantine does not quite correspond to the accepted interpretation of the term “leatherette”. Rather, it is a modified genuine leather made from leather fibers and latex chips. Various polymers are used to bond the composite.

According to its consumer characteristics - strength, abrasion resistance, elasticity and aesthetic perception - the material is very close to natural leather. It is almost impossible for a layman to distinguish one type of leather from another.

Recycled leather looks very impressive on the door. The price for 1 m 2 ranges from 450 to 1,650 rubles / m 2.

Advantages and disadvantages

The choice of dermantine for door upholstery is due to its consumer properties, which are not inferior, and in a number of parameters are superior to natural leather. Among them:

  • democratic price - the material is available to all segments of the country's population;
  • counteraction to the development of various microorganisms, as a result of which the material does not rot and does not become covered with mold, which is characteristic of natural leather;
  • high tensile strength;
  • resistance to abrasion and aggressive environments (some types of acids and alkalis);
  • easy care - washed with laundry soap or any washing powder. Heavily contaminated places are washed with a cotton swab moistened with ammonia;
  • immunity to the influence of rain, frost (withstands an infinite number of freezing cycles), ultraviolet radiation;
  • durability - the service life, with regular maintenance, is at least 10 years, during which the texture and color scheme retain their original appearance;
  • good heat and sound insulation properties;
  • a wide variety of textures and colors - you can choose for any interior.

There are also weaknesses:

  • the upholstery cannot be repaired even with a minor cut - only the constriction;
  • highly flammable, which is sometimes used by intruders, setting fire to the door.

The listed disadvantages, although unpleasant, are not critical, requiring the abandonment of dermantin as an upholstery material for doors. After all, you can replace the damaged material yourself with minimal costs - you only have to buy upholstery.

Upholstery technology

Do-it-yourself upholstery of the door with dermantine is carried out in several stages. On the first of them, the necessary tools and materials are purchased, the second - the door is being prepared for finishing, the third - the upholstery is carried out, the fourth - the upholstered door is decorated.

Materials and tools

It is possible for any homeowner to upholster the front door on their own, be it a house or an apartment, including female representatives, since the technological process does not provide for significant physical exertion - upholstery can also be done on the installed door. To start work, you need to prepare basic and consumables, tools. You will need:

  • leatherette (how to upholster the door instead of dermantin in its classical sense, we discussed above);
  • insulation. Here you need to purchase material that will allow you to simultaneously solve two problems: to insulate the door and create a basis for obtaining a beautiful relief. Foam rubber and isolon meet these requirements to the greatest extent. You can use other types of insulation: mineral wool, batting, etc. You can learn more about the types of insulation materials, their pros and cons in the work "";
  • decorative nails 70-80 g / m2 (for metal doors - furniture buttons, for wooden - ordinary nails with a decorative head);
  • construction nails (50-55 g are consumed per 1 m 2);

Attention: for metal doors, polymer glue is bought instead of nails.

  • decorative, usually made of brass, wire, cord (braid), suitable for decoration in texture and color, or fishing line;
  • paint brush for glue;
  • a construction knife with replaceable blades or scissors for cutting dermantine and insulation;
  • screwdriver with Phillips and slotted bits or a set of screwdrivers;
  • roulette;
  • construction pencil;
  • hammer (for metal doors - construction stapler).

Everything you need is in the workplace. Now we will consider how to sheathe a door with dermantine with your own hands quickly, efficiently and beautifully.

Preparatory stage

The algorithm for preparing the door for upholstery at home is as follows:

  • locks, handles and a peephole are dismantled from the door;
  • the door leaf is removed from the hinges and placed on a table or four stools;
  • the doorway is revised and the seals are changed if necessary;
  • the old upholstery is removed along with the decor fittings, if a constriction is made;
  • the door leaf is degreased (for an iron door you can use white spirit or acetone, for a wooden one - turpentine or gasoline), washed, and then covered with protective agents (painted);
  • wooden door looks around. If the geometry is broken, special metal corners are nailed in the corners. The slots are sealed with a sealant. Mold or mildew is removed, and their locations are treated with special compounds;
  • insulation is cut to size;
  • Dermantin is measured with an overlap of 15 cm on each side for a wooden door and 10 cm for a metal door, after which it is cut out;

For information: the width of the door can be up to 100 cm, which is the limit. For larger opening widths, two sashes are installed. The width of the upholstery material is at least 140 cm. Therefore, there is enough leftover for the strips under the rollers.

  • if the door will be decorated, it will not be superfluous to draw up a drawing in which to indicate the attachment points of the decorating nails;
  • rolls are being prepared - an upholstery element with two functions: decoration and protection from drafts. They represent a tube made of upholstery material (leatherette), in which the insulation is wrapped. Depending on where the door opens and where the upholstery is made, they can be mounted on the door leaf or on the frame of the door frame.

For information: if the door opens outward, then when upholstering the outer side of the door leaf, it is necessary to prepare 4 rollers and attach them under the upholstery or on it, if the inner side is sheathed, 4 rollers are also prepared, but they are attached to the box from the inside. With a door opening to the inside of the room, which is possible with double doors, only three rollers need to be prepared - they are not attached from the hinge side.

Roller mounting instructions

For the manufacture of the roller, a strip of dermantin 10-15 cm wide is taken, where the scraps of insulation or material specially produced for these purposes are placed. The step-by-step process of attaching the rollers to the door leaf is as follows (regardless of whether it is fastened under the upholstery or on it):

  • strips for rollers are cut from the remnants of dermantin (after the pattern on the door) - one for the side where the handle and locks are, two for the top and bottom, if the hinges are external. If hidden, then 4 blanks are cut. Width - 10-15 cm, length - 6-7 cm more than the size of the side of the door where they will be nailed (2-2.5 cm on each side). The overlap is necessary for the formation of a beautiful corner where the articulation of the adjacent rollers occurs;
  • for the side of the door with outer hinges, five strips are cut out - two are attached opposite the hinges on the door frame (so as not to interfere with the movement of the sash when opening), three on the door itself;
  • strips of dermantine are nailed (wooden door) or glued (metal) to the edge of the door leaf face down so that the formed roller protrudes no more than 3 cm beyond the edge of the door;
  • insulation is laid in the form of a bundle (you can use a ready-made one or make it from insulation scraps);
  • the strip is rolled up, forming a roller, and attached to the door.

The roller is attached to the door frame in the same way. The only difference is that the rollers located on the box should cover the door by only 5 mm, and from the hinge side, they can be installed flush with the canvas.

Step by step instructions for upholstery

In the instructions on how to upholster the door from the inside with dermantine, there are 2 options for attaching the upholstery material:

  • classical;
  • carriage.

Classical

The simplest and most affordable door upholstery method is the classic one. But here it is necessary to take into account such nuances as the type of door leaf (wooden or metal), the presence or absence of insulation, whether subsequent decoration will be carried out.

Wooden doors. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

  • insulation is placed between the rollers. It should not go over the rollers. The permissible distance to the roller is 1 cm;
  • with a stapler, the insulating material is attached to the surface of the door;
  • dermantin is laid on the insulation. The edges are tucked inward (5-6 cm) so that the upholstery goes a little over the rollers;
  • decorative nails are beaten at a distance of 7 mm from the edge of the folded dermantin. The first is in one of the upper corners, the second is nailed in the other upper corner. In this case, the sheathing sheet must be tightened;
  • with a step of 10-12 cm, the upper part of the dermantin is attached;
  • with the same step, there is an alternate lowering down the sides of the doors;
  • the bottom is nailed;
  • holes for locks, a handle and a peephole are cut out.

After that, you can start decorating the doors, about which a little below.

Metal doors. Here you cannot drive in nails either when attaching an artificial leather canvas or when decorating. Therefore, the upholstery technology is slightly different: the door must be covered with glue, and decorated with furniture buttons. The work algorithm is as follows:

  • we make a drawing on paper with the arrangement of furniture buttons;
  • we transfer the drawing to the door;
  • glue the lower part of the furniture button to the door surface;
  • put isolon or foam rubber on the buttons and slightly prick so that the marks remain;
  • we remove the insulation and cut out the holes for buttons, keyholes, a handle and a door peephole;
  • using insulation as a template, cut holes in the leatherette;
  • we coat the door with glue around the perimeter, especially carefully, and then in the middle;
  • we glue the insulation;
  • to the ends of the doors on top of the rollers we fix the profiles on which the leatherette canvas will be stretched. If they were not provided, then we glue the ends of the door with glue - it is there that the leatherette will be attached (in this case, the rollers are glued over the upholstery).

The work is completed by decorating the door and installing fittings.

Carriage

And now we will consider how to properly upholster the door with dermantine when using the coach method of attaching the upholstery material. The step-by-step process is as follows:

Attention: in a number of publications it is proposed to carry out carriage upholstery directly on a metal door from diamond-shaped pieces of material (this is a classic, or, as it is also called, the correct version) using furniture buttons. This method of work can be done, but it is very difficult and time consuming. It is more convenient to work with a plywood board with a thickness of 10 mm and a single piece of upholstery, where the folds are formed by a nylon thread. The covered shield is subsequently attached to the door in the same way MDF panels... We will consider this option.

  • Step 1. Cut out 10 mm plywood to fit the size of the doors. After that, we cut out the cardboard to fit the size of the plywood board - it will be a template.
  • Step 2. On the cardboard, using a tape measure, a pencil and a ruler, draw diagonally rhombuses. The crosshair of the lines will be the attachment point for the upholstery.
  • Step 3. From the template, transfer the markings to the shield and drill holes in it with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm.
  • Step 4. Cut out the insulation (only foam or isolon) with an overlap of 80 mm on all sides, after which we glue it to the shield. The adhesive is applied only in the center and next to the holes. Leave about 10 cm of non-glued space around the edges. The folded foam rubber pad will be glued here.
  • Step 5. When the glue is dry, fold back the edge of the insulation, grease the plywood with glue and wrap the edges of the foam rubber upside down, glue them to the shield, forming rounded sides.
  • Step 6. A screwdriver with a cifendorf attachment (special crown for working with soft materials) cut out holes with a diameter of 30 mm at the site of punctures (furniture makers call this device a "joker").
  • Step 7. Take the upholstery and use a paper template to mark the holes on the back.
  • Step 8. With nylon threads we sew all the marked points in the same way as buttons are sewn. The tails of the threads must remain at least 20 cm.
  • Step 9. Using a hook or needle, the first row of "tails" is pulled through the insulation and the shield onto reverse side plywood and is attached to it with a stapler in the shape of the letter "Z" three times so that the thread does not stretch during operation. In this case, the canvas should go almost to the very shield.
  • Step 10. After fastening three rows with your fingers, form the first diagonal folds. The depth of the fold should be about 1 cm. To help you can take a wooden stick and form folds with it.
  • Step 11. Having completed the formation of all the folds, we wrap the artificial leather through the insulated side to the back of the shield and fix it there with a stapler, after which we form the side folds.
  • Step 12. Buttons are taken, purchased or homemade. A nylon thread is drawn into them and pulled through the upholstery, insulation and plywood to the back of the shield, where they are attached with a stapler.
  • Step 13. The shield is attached to the door. Holes for fittings are cut in it.

For information: in the work "Finishing the front door with your own hands" you can see the technology of attaching panels to doors.

Step 14. Locks, handle and peephole are installed.

Upholstery decoration

Upholstered doors are very often decorated with decorative nails and brass cord, fishing line or tape to match the color of the upholstery. Some options for drawings are shown in the photo below:

To complete the decor work, points are placed on the surface of the upholstered door where a decorative nail will be driven in. A string is pulled between the nails, forming a relief pattern. At metal doors, the work on decor is reduced to winding the heads of furniture buttons on the bases glued in advance.

Some nuances when working with dermantin

When working with artificial leather, two abnormal situations quite often arise:

  • due to long or improper storage in rolls, the material is crumpled and does not straighten when pulled - the folds are clearly visible;
  • during operation, paint scuffs appear in some places.

Problems are easily fixed:

  • You can smooth the leatherette either with a wet cloth, for example, a sheet (placed on an unfolded outer piece of leatherette), or with hot steam from an iron. In the first case, in the process of drying the draped fabric, the leatherette straightens, in the second, the steam immediately smoothes the surface of the artificial skin. The main thing is to steam from the back (seamy) side and in no case touch the material with a hot iron.
  • Local scuffs are restored acrylic paints for leather and its substitutes. The main problem is to choose the color scheme. You can try to do it yourself, mixing different paints on the palette until you get the desired color, or you can ask the paint seller to use computer program for the selection of paints. But for this you need to provide a paint sample. You can get it from the door by cutting off a piece of folded dermantine. Thrifty owners always have a sample in a secluded place.

If the selection does not work, then the entire surface of the doors is repainted. Before painting, the upholstery is washed and degreased with alcohol or vodka. It is best to paint with a foam sponge. After the first layer has dried, apply the second one.

Conclusion

Door upholstery modern materials, falling under the definition of "leatherette", allows you to get a beautiful and durable door finish. Materials are affordable for a wide range of consumers, and the work itself can be performed by the owners on their own - there is nothing complicated in the technology.

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