House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» How to make a screen for a bath with your own hands: an analysis of the nuances of the installation. Bath screen: photos of the best models and installation nuances DIY bath screen materials

How to make a screen for a bath with your own hands: an analysis of the nuances of the installation. Bath screen: photos of the best models and installation nuances DIY bath screen materials

The bathroom screen with doors is the finishing touch to the bathroom interior. The variety of colors and patterns on the facades of products allows you to make bright accent, which will complement the design of the room and create the desired atmosphere. But here it is also important that the bathroom doors under the tiles are easy to use, because many people store bath accessories and detergents behind the screens.

Varieties of screens with doors

Beautiful, practical and durable - these are the properties that products must have, allowing you to hide communications under the plumbing. But since the preferences of all people are different, the screen under the bathtub with doors should meet the needs of everyone. That is why the modern market offers potential customers a wide range of devices.

The screen for a bath with doors can be of two types:

  • products with sliding doors;
  • devices with swing doors.

Sliding door equipment

Sliding bath doors are the choice of practical people. This type of equipment is able to easily solve two problems at once: design and economic. Thanks to the installation of such screens, the entire space under the plumbing is hidden along with unsightly communications, but at the same time the equipment is always available. In such a "locker" you can store a large number of necessary things that did not have space on the hinged shelves.

Note: Sliding doors under the bathroom are very easy to install. Perhaps even a child could cope with this task. The equipment can be fully installed in just 10-15 minutes. This type of equipment is ideal for people who have non-standard plumbing fixtures in their bathrooms. Due to the fact that the product has legs, during its installation, the height can be changed.

Sliding screens of different models may have differences in design and type of materials used. Products with a plastic frame are considered the cheapest. The advantage of this design is that it is not afraid of moisture. At the same time, the equipment is quite stable. And they have, perhaps, one minus - fragility. If you accidentally hit the door with your foot, you can damage the front of the product.

Doors with an aluminum frame are stronger than plastic ones. Thanks to a special coating, aluminum is practically corrosion resistant. But such doors also have a minus - over time, the paint slips. If the frame is not periodically tinted, it can fail pretty soon.

Roller-type bathroom doors are available. In the frame of the screen, such a door slides very easily, similar to the doors in sliding wardrobes. Such models look very aesthetically pleasing, because the frame is practically invisible from the side. But this type of equipment is not without its drawbacks. Unfortunately, the screen for the bathtub with roller doors is very decent. In addition, there are no standard solutions, so such a product will have to be made only to order.

Screens with swing doors

Hinged doors for a bath are a solution for household people. Thanks to this equipment, the plumbing is more like a furniture set. Often, this decision is made by people who have other bathroom furniture in the bathroom: cabinets, hanging shelves or pencil cases. Then swing doors are ordered in the appropriate style from identical materials, like the rest of the furniture. As a rule, this type of device is made of MDF of different shades.

These offers are very tempting, but modern equipment costs a lot of money. And then the question arises, how to make the doors under the bathroom yourself?

Self-made plastic screen

In order to independently build doors for a niche under the plumbing, you will need the following materials:

  • strips of polymer materials;
  • metal profiles;
  • liquid Nails;
  • screws and dowels;
  • wooden beams.

To make bathroom doors you will need some tools:

  • construction stapler;
  • screwdriver (in principle, you can do with a screwdriver);
  • drill.

The work progress is as follows:

  • First you need to make a frame for the screen from a metal profile. The finished frame should be secured with bars under the side of the bathroom. The bars must be installed vertically along the height of the plumbing;
  • So that the doors for the niche do not dangle, the beams are "knocked out" between the edge of the bathtub and the floor for greater stability;
  • For structural strength, the profile must be attached to the walls using the same beams and self-tapping screws;
  • In the middle of the frame, two more metal profiles are fixed at a sufficient distance from each other. As a result, a door under the bathroom will be hung on them;
  • Then you should make the doors for the box. To do this, four strips of the required length must be cut from a metal profile, which are then connected to each other using metal corners;
  • When the door for the box is ready, it must be attached to one of the vertical guides in the middle of the frame using hinges;
  • After that, the entire frame with the door is sheathed with plastic strips.

For your information: Such hidden doors in the bathroom are practically invisible from the side. If the structure was not swing, but sliding, there would be no such effect.

How to make doors for tiles?

If you want to make bathroom doors for tiles, you need to use moisture-resistant drywall as cladding. When the frame is sheathed, the surface of the screen must be covered with a layer of primer.

Tip: To prevent the joints between the wall and the screen from being covered with cracks, the primer at the joints must be reinforced with a Strobi mesh or serpyanka. After that, the screen and the doors for the tiles will be prepared. Then you need to "plant" decorative tiles on special glue, after which the work can be considered completed.

Conclusion

Which screen to choose for your bathroom depends only on your taste preferences and, of course, financial capabilities. If you are sure that you can make plumbing doors with your own hands, do not deny yourself this opportunity. Firstly, it is beneficial, because homemade product will cost much less, and secondly, you will have an author's creation that will delight you for more than one year.

A bulky bathtub with many pipes looks disharmonious, so it needs to be masked. In order to improve the look of the bathroom, a special screen is installed. suitable color covering water and drain pipes, siphon, plumbing units.

What it is?

The bath screen is a solid or sliding panel installed on the side of the bath along its entire length and height, hiding the unaesthetic appearance of the external bath cover, pipes and adjacent assemblies. The standard length of the screen is from 150 cm to 170 cm, the height is from 50 to 70 cm. These parameters vary depending on the type, shape and dimensions of the bath. The demand for bath screens is due to their many advantages:

  • simple installation (the structure is easy to install with your own hands);
  • strength and durability;
  • relatively low costs for the purchase, manufacture, installation;
  • 100% achievable result in improving the aesthetics of the bathroom.

The product can be bought, ordered from a master, or you can make a do-it-yourself bathroom screen.

Why do you need to close the bath

A variety of finishing materials and technologies allows you to create a beautiful and functional room out of a bathroom. The screen under the bathtub is designed to organically fit the tank with communications (water supply and drainage) into the interior.

When making a screen for a bath with your own hands, it is better to immediately provide for additional shelves and boxes in it for storing household goods, hygiene items or cleaning tools - the decorative panel will acquire a practical purpose. In addition, the screen under the bathtub has another function - a closed or sliding shield prevents water from getting into hard-to-reach places under the bathtub.

There are three main functions of the bath screen:

  • decorative - decorates the bathroom;
  • practical - provides a place for storing household items;
  • protective - does not allow water to get under the bath, dust accumulate there, dirt forms.

Varieties of screens

Bath screens are divided into two categories:

  • stationary - capital closed walls from the edge of the bath down, often tiled (a photo of a bath with a capital screen is presented below);
  • mobile screens - attachment panels that are easy to remove and carry, most often these are sliding plastic models. Photo: mobile sliding screen under the bath.

In appearance, they are classified as follows:

  • closed screens (solid) - represent one fixed canvas;
  • open (these include sliding screens under the bath), consisting of two or more moving parts.

Bath screens differ in the material from which they are made:

  • from MDF panels;
  • from chipboard;
  • screens from ceramic tiles;
  • plastic;
  • plasterboard;
  • closed screens made of bricks or tongue-and-groove blocks.

Samples of models are shown in the photo. Closed plasterboard, tongue-and-groove screens or bricks are most often trimmed with tiles. The best solution would be to provide them with a removable, opening or sliding inspection hatch, and the best view Bathtub screen tiles are considered to be those used to decorate the walls in the bathroom. Panels made of MDF, chipboard, plastic and ceramics are used as an independent coating and do not need additional cladding.

Required materials and tools

You can make a screen for a bath with your own hands from any available type of material, the manufacturing and installation technologies for screens for a bath differ slightly. First, the installation of a metal or timber frame, then it is sheathed with panels, and the process ends with the finishing of the frame closed by the panels.

It is better to use plastic and ceramic tiles for decoration. They do not corrode and resist moisture well. The frame of the screen is sheathed most often with waterproof plasterboard, and for the supporting elements it is better to use a metal profile.

You can make a do-it-yourself bath screen using the following materials:

  • for cladding, choose moisture-resistant gypsum board, MDF or chipboard, plastic one-piece panels or lining - it is better to use the type of material with which you have experience with your own hands;
  • two pieces of a guide metal profile 60 cm wide and 150 to 170 cm long;
  • bearing profile of the same width to form the frame stiffeners;
  • self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 * 16 mm for connecting elements of a metal profile, 3.5 * 25 mm for mounting drywall to the profile;
  • hammer-in dowels for fastening metal profiles to the wall;
  • "Liquid nails" or better silicone sealant;
  • for facing the screen under the bathtub, you will need tiles and tile adhesive;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • furniture hinges are needed to hang MDF doors on the structure.

To install the screen under the bath with your own hands, you will need tools:

  • level, tape measure, metal ruler, pencil;
  • screwdriver;
  • jigsaw, hacksaw for metal;
  • construction knife;
  • sealant gun.

DIY drywall screen

The plasterboard cladding technology is somewhat different from the process of working with MDF, chipboard or plastic. It is not difficult to make a do-it-yourself bath screen with plasterboard cladding - this is one of the best, easiest to process and available on modern market materials.

To install the screen in the bathroom, it is better to choose a special moisture-resistant type of drywall - it is impregnated with antiseptics that prevent the development of microorganisms under conditions high humidity... The price for it is slightly higher, but only this sample is suitable for a screen under the bath, although it is also afraid of direct ingress of water and must be well sealed after installation in order to avoid destruction.

The drywall screen can be open, with the provided inspection hatch, or closed. A closed screen for a bath is done as follows: after marking the location of the screen and installing a metal frame, it is sheathed with plasterboard:

  • once again make measurements of the frame from the profiles;
  • mark out with a pencil or a marker on one of the sides of the gypsum board (both are identical, choose any) the parts necessary for sheathing;
  • cut drywall according to the markings. This can be done with an ordinary carpenter's knife, attaching a metal ruler to the line: cut through the upper cardboard, break it, cut the lower one along the fold;
  • sheathing of metal frame profiles with plasterboard parts using a screwdriver and galvanized self-tapping screws;
  • putty the caps of screws and seams, seal the joints;
  • after drying, finish the screen under the bath with tiles.

You can see the options for finishing the screen under the bathtub in the photo.

DIY bath screen

Making and installing a screen under a bath with your own hands is carried out in several steps, all work can be done during the weekend by watching the video of the process of installing a screen for a bath by the masters. A sliding plastic screen will require less effort and time to install than other types.


Step 1. Measuring the bath and marking the location of the screen. Height measurements are taken at least at three points, since the bath is always installed at an angle - to facilitate the flow of water into the hole.

When measuring the length of the bath, it should be remembered that the upper guide profile of the screen is made of one element 150 cm or 170 cm long, and the lower one will most often be a composite of three or more parts, since it is more convenient to make the screen with a recess deep into the bath. Determine the dimensions of the protrusion: indicate the distance from the wall to the left corner of the recess, then its length and distance from the right corner to the wall.

The marking of the location of the screen on the floor is never done flush with the edge of the bathtub, you should always take into account that a layer of glue and tiles will still be applied to the surface. The thickness of the material itself (drywall, chipboard or MDF) is also taken into account. Having made a projection of the edge of the bathtub on the floor, they retreat 3-5 cm deep and draw a line from one wall to another - the elements of the lower metal profile will be located on it and the depth of the screen protrusion under the bathtub is counted from it. A more accurate idea of ​​the order of work will be given by watching the video.

Step 2. Do-it-yourself installation of a metal frame. According to the markings made, the elements of the metal profile, pre-cut in accordance with the dimensions, are installed - guides and stiffeners. If there is no cutter, then they are connected together with small self-tapping screws. The options for fastening the metal profile are as follows:

  • to the wall - with hammer-in dowels with self-tapping screws;
  • to the surface of the bath - with liquid nails or on polyurethane foam;
  • on ceramic tiles on the wall and on the floor - with silicone sealant (since often heated floors are made in bathrooms and fastening with self-tapping screws is impossible).

The installation process of the frame is demonstrated in the video.

For the screen under the MDF bathtub, instead of a metal frame, you can install a wooden one, and in one of its sectors, make one or more doors from MDF to access communications. How such a bathtub looks like with a screen with MDF doors can be seen in the photo.

Step 3. Covering the frame of the screen under the bath. The work at this stage depends on the material with which it is planned to sheathe metal carcass: drywall, chipboard, plastic, MDF panels or tiles. Sometimes thick ceramic tiles are not sewn onto drywall, but attached directly to the frame. An idea of ​​how to make a tile screen under a bathtub can be obtained by looking at a photo or video.

The process of plating a bath with your own hands with plasterboard, MDF panels or chipboard is the same and is described above: the sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver. Screens made of MDF and laminated chipboard are not tiled with tiles - their decorative moisture-resistant coating is a decoration. Installation of plastic products is done a little differently.

Plastic screen

The peculiarity of plastic is that it is a very lightweight and bending-resistant material. The plastic screen for the bathroom does not require reinforced fastening - two long guides at the top and bottom are enough to mount the panels. Instead of metal profiles for these purposes, you can use wooden planks, having previously treated them with antiseptics. There are two types of plastic bath screens:

  • from whole sheets of curtains, forming a sliding screen;
  • from plastic lining panels - a closed screen.

The photo shows examples of decorating a bath with screens of this type: a sliding screen with moving doors and a solid one from the lining.

The sequence of making a screen for a bath from plastic (PVC) closed-type panels with your own hands:

  1. Above and below, guides are installed to which the starting profile is attached.
  2. The number of plastic panels of the required length required for covering the screen is calculated and cut - in height from the edge of the bathtub to the floor. It is important not to forget that the height of the bathtub may differ in different places.
  3. PVC panels are inserted vertically into the grooves of the starting profile, one after the other, fixed with self-tapping screws or small nails.

No water retains in vertically arranged plastic panels, they form an even closed row, are easy to clean and, if necessary, simply dismantle. This the best way at the price and the easiest to install with your own hands type of screen under the bath.

Sliding bath screen

One of the most common models sold on the market is a sliding bath screen. How different samples of sliding structures look can be seen in the photo. A sliding screen for a bathtub consists of two or more plastic curtain panels that move along a guide groove, opening and hiding the space behind them. The sliding screen is practical:

  • installing it under the bath does not cause difficulties;
  • sliding curtains provide access to plumbing communications at any time;
  • if desired, the sliding screen is easy to do with your own hands.

It is better to use lightweight plastic sliding screens in the bathrooms of the old fund, where you need to provide frequent access to communications for repairs.

The disadvantages of a sliding screen for a plastic bathtub include its ordinary, graceless appearance and not the best strength qualities.

  1. Before making a screen for a bath with your own hands, it is recommended to repair all communications in the bathroom, to carry out preventive work - after installing a closed stationary screen, this will be impossible without its complete or partial destruction.
  2. When using wooden blocks for the manufacture of the frame, before installing them under the bathtub, it is necessary to treat them with antiseptics and impregnations, which impart moisture resistance to the tree.
  3. Before installing the screen under the bath, clean the space that will later be closed by treating the surface with antifungal solutions.
  4. When using MDF and chipboard in the bathroom, it should be remembered that these materials deteriorate under the influence of water, require sealing of the seams and a waterproof coating.
  5. One of the simplest and most budgetary models for installation in the bathroom is a plastic sliding screen, if you don't want to make the construction yourself, you can buy such a screen inexpensively.

Installation design ideas: photo

The presented photos show how the various screens under the bath look, what materials they are made of. You can use the best examples as ideas for decorating your own bath.

Photo: original tiling of the bath screen.

Photo: a screen for a bathtub, tiled with a hatch.

Photo: bathtub with a sliding screen, decorated with photo printing.

Photo: bathtub with a color sliding screen.

Photo: sliding screen under the bathtub with white doors.

Photo: bathtub with a sliding screen in the form of flaps.

Photo: sliding screen under the bathtub with shelves for hygiene products.

Photo: a sliding screen around the entire perimeter of the bath.

Photo: color sliding screen under the bath.

Photo: a bathtub with a screen made of wooden lattices.

Photo: a bathtub with a solid chipboard screen.

Photo: bathtub with a solid mirror screen.

Video: how to hide pipes under the bathroom

The video clearly shows the sequence of work on creating and installing with your own hands a closed and open screen under the bathtub, which allows you to hide the flaws of the plumbing units and hide the pipes.

25 August, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying of internal communications, rough and final finishing). Hobby: mobile communication, high tech, computer technology, programming.

Today I will tell you how to make a protective screen under the bath with your own hands. The manufacture of such a structure is not particularly difficult even for an inexperienced craftsman, therefore, I see no point in attracting professionals to work and paying them money for this.

Choosing the right design

Let's start by deciding what to make a screen from to mask the space under the bathroom. Personally, in my practice, I came across various designs.

The most common were the following:

  • MDF screen for a bath - a structure made of glued fiber boards, which, however, do not tolerate operation in humid air very well;
  • plastic screen for the bathroom - and we are talking about both conventional polymer lamellas and various sheet materials (plexiglass, polycarbonate, and so on);
  • construction of mineral blocks - I made masonry under the bathroom from foam blocks, bricks and even cinder blocks (I do not advise this option, especially for beginners, because of the great laboriousness of the work);
  • steel screen - a very unusual structure that I installed only because the owner found a sheet of steel that was suitable for the size (if you decide to make such a screen, then I advise you to choose aluminum, which is lighter, looks better, and is protected from corrosion);
  • a plasterboard screen is a universal design both in terms of shape (you can bend the gypsum board in any plane) and in terms of design (you can revet the gypsum board with any material - tiles, wallpaper, plaster, paint).

As you probably guessed, I prefer to make a tiled screen under the bathroom - the pros and cons of this design are presented in the table below.

Advantages Flaws
Strength. Plasterboard construction, installed on a solid frame and protected by tiles, is able to withstand significant external mechanical stress without changing its appearance. Low moisture resistance. Normal drywall is not designed for use in humid air. Therefore, for work, you need to use only material painted in green.
Low weight. The screen under the bathtub will not exert significant stress on structural elements building. Although, in fairness, it should be noted that plastic panels weigh even less. Difficult access to communications. After the installation of the screen is completed, access to plumbing and sewer pipes under the bathroom will be impossible. Therefore, you should take care of installing the required number of inspection doors in advance. suitable size.
Registration. Drywall is faced with tiles, which are most organically combined with tiles glued to the walls or floor. Moreover, the design can be diversified with decorative elements, friezes and so on. High price. Here we are talking more about ceramic tiles, which will be glued over drywall. As for the design itself (frame plus gypsum board), it will cost you very inexpensively.
Ease of maintenance. The ceramic surface, due to its dense structure, does not absorb dirt. Potential contamination can be easily cleaned with a sponge and household detergents. The complexity of self-assembly. As in the previous case, the greatest difficulty will be caused by laying the tiles. And the screen itself can be designed without too much trouble, especially if you follow the instructions below.
Long service life. If you design the screen correctly, then it will last as long as the entire decorative trim bathroom. That is, it will have to be dismantled only during the next repair.

I think I convinced you that the best choice- This is a plasterboard screen, tiled. I will make a structure of a complex shape with a protrusion at the bottom, which makes it possible to comfortably place my feet when washing the bathtub and washing.

Required tools and materials

I will briefly list the main materials that will be needed in the work:

  1. Plasterboard sheets. Depending on the size of the bath and its location, you will need one or two standard sheet(most often one is more than enough). Let me remind you once again that you only need to buy moisture-resistant drywall (green), which can be used in high humidity conditions.

  1. Drywall profiles. You will need guides (UD) and load-bearing (CD) elements. Additional fittings ("pawns" and "crabs") are not needed. We will do everything with the help of ordinary small self-tapping screws (bugs).
  2. Sanitary sealant. With its help, oddly enough it sounds, I will fix the guide profiles on the surface of the floor and walls (in my case, they are already tiled).
  3. Drywall primer. She primed the surface of the gypsum board before gluing tiles on them.
  4. Tile. Its purpose is clear - decorative screen design. It is, of course, better to select it to match the color of the walls or floor. But here it all depends on your preferences, so I won't dwell on it for a long time.
  5. Tile adhesive. Special dry compound based on cement (or ready-made dispersion mixture) for gluing tiles.

This is basic, but in the course of the presentation I will mention other tools with materials.

Installation technology

Well, now I’ll tell you how to make yourself a screen from gypsum plasterboard, tiled. The whole process is divided by me into several sequential stages, shown in the diagram below.

I will describe each of them in as much detail as possible.

Stage 1 - Preparation

You always need to start work with the preparation of the premises. In the case I am describing, I acted according to the following scheme:

  1. I installed a bath in the right place. The matter, it would seem, is simple, but there are several small points that I would like to draw your attention to:
    • Before installation, I advise you to insulate the steel tub with polyurethane foam. It will not only increase the cooling time of the water, but also reduce the noise made by the bath bowl when filling with water. I described the process of insulating a bath in one of the articles on this blog.
    • It is advisable to install and level the bathtub using special threaded legs, which are either included in the kit or purchased separately. In this way, the maximum stability of the product can be achieved.
    • Several bricks can be placed under the bottom of the tub, secured with polyurethane foam. This will add strength to the structure.
    • After installing the plumbing fixture, you must connect the drain, overflow and mixers. And then check the performance of the system and the absence of leaks at the joints.

  1. Put tiles on the walls and bathroom floor. Instructions for laying tiles on walls (including from drywall) are described in a separate material. But here I would also like to point out a few points:
    • The tiles at the junction of the bathtub to the wall should hang over the plumbing fixture. Its edge should be cut as close as possible to the surface of the bathtub and machined with a "turtle" to form a kind of chamfer.

  • On the floor and walls under the bathroom, the tiles should be positioned so that they go 10-15 cm under the plumbing fixture. That is, it is desirable that the screen is installed not just on the enclosing structures, but on the tiles. So your design will have the most harmonious look.

That's all I wanted to say about preparation. Now you can proceed to the next stage of work.

Stage 2 - Layout

In the manufacture of the design in question, the dimensions of the bath screen are very important. Moreover, in my case, it will have a complex shape with a depression at the bottom for a comfortable position of the legs.

So I decided to devote a whole section to the topic of markup. Well, let's get started:

  1. I cut out a guide profile for the floor. Usually this is one solid piece, but in my case there are some nuances:
    • The profile will consist of three parts, which are separated by bath legs. This is done in order to leave as much legroom as possible. It turns out that the groove will be about 7 cm deep, which is quite enough.

  • The floor profile (like other galvanized parts) is cut with ordinary metal scissors according to pre-made marks.
  1. I carry out markings on the walls and floor for further correct placement of the profiles. This is done as follows:
    • From the upper edge of the bath, using a water level, strictly vertical lines are drawn along the walls, which connect the end of the plumbing fixture and the floor.

  • After that, the marks at the walls are connected to each other with a line. This can be done using a rule. For checking, you can attach a level in the middle of the bath. When the instrument is positioned vertically, it must rest exactly on the projection line drawn on the floor.
  • I make an indent for drywall with tiles. I stack the tiles and drywall together, then apply them to the line drawn on the floor. I make a serif. Then I set aside another 5 mm from this notch, which will go to glue and self-tapping screws (the gypsum board does not adhere as tightly as possible to the galvanized profiles. Then I set aside another 5 mm (the surface of the screen will be slightly recessed, if you look from the edge of the bath). This will be the final They need to be made both on the wall and on the floor.

  • A final line is drawn along the resulting end marks using a level or rule, which will be a reference point for aligning the main plane of the screen. But do not forget that you still need to mark the groove.

  • I mark the line for gluing the floor profile. To do this, I measure the distance from the outer line to the leg of the bath (no further, otherwise the gypsum board will rest against the leg and it will not be possible to fasten it) and make several intermediate marks along which I draw a straight line, which in my case is about 7 cm from the first.

  • Then on two walls I measure 10 cm from the floor and make two marks. This will be the height of the footwell. Here additional lines do not need to be drawn yet, we will establish the final guidelines during the installation of the frame.

By the way, it's time to start exactly this stage of work.

Stage 3 - Structuring the frame

The frame, as you already understood, will be made of a galvanized profile for drywall: UD guides (27 by 28 mm) and CD carriers (27 by 60 mm). You can take and wooden blocks, but wood, as you know, does not tolerate operation in humid air worse, so I personally do not support this option.

Therefore, below I will tell you how to make a galvanized frame:

  1. I install the floor guide profiles. As I already said, for this we will not use "quick installation", but ordinary sanitary silicone. It firmly adheres the parts and will not allow the screen to move in one direction or another. The scheme is as follows:
    • The surface of the floor (where we have tiles) and galvanizing is cleaned of dust, and then degreased with an alcohol-containing composition. After that, the silicone is charged into the assembly gun and with its help is applied to the prepared part.

  • After applying the silicone, the part is applied to the floor along the inner line, which acts as the boundary of the footwell in the screen. It is necessary to firmly press the part and wait a few seconds for the adhesive to set. The details that are adjacent to the walls (extreme) should be 1 mm away from the wall tiles so that vertical elements can be inserted there, as shown in the photo below.

  1. I install vertical guide profiles on the walls. They will also be attached to silicone, but if you wish, you can replace it with dowel-nails or “quick installation” screws. The scheme is as follows:
    • Two 10 cm long profiles are cut out of galvanized steel (the height of the recess for the legs), after which they are coated with glue and applied to the wall. At the junction of the floor and wall parts, they must be nested into each other.
    • Then, for strength, these two parts are fastened with a self-tapping "bug". In order not to bend the part when screwing in the self-tapping screw, it must be supported with pliers.

  • The upper vertical part is glued. Its length is equal to the height of the bath cut above the floor level minus 10 cm. Then the upper and lower elements are connected by a horizontal rail. All this is fastened together. As a result, you should get a structure, which is shown in the photo below.

  • After finishing gluing, I recommend checking the correct installation of the guides with a tape measure, measuring the distance from the main line. It should be the same.
  1. I set a horizontal profile for the top of the frame. The carrier element (CD) will be used for it. The sequence of actions will be as follows:
    • It is necessary to measure the distance between the two side elements (installed on the walls), and then cut off from the profile a part equal to this length minus 0.5 cm (for ease of installation).
    • After that, I fixed the CD-profile in the upper part of the bathtub, screwing it with self-tapping screws to two U-shaped parts glued to the walls (we put them in step 2). There is no need to attach the profile to the bath itself).
    • For strength, I blew out the gaps between the profile and the polyurethane bath polyurethane foam, which will serve as an excellent sealant and will not allow the profile to bend during operation. The result is such a design.

  1. I install a guide profile that will play a role inner corner indentations for the legs. A UD part is used for it. Here's what you need to do:
    • The corner rail in the case I have described rests against the nuts of the bath legs. Therefore, I cut out a few small sections in the galvanized part to facilitate the installation of the frame.

  • The guide is inserted into the wall structure and then fixed with self-tapping screws. Thanks to the recesses for the bolts, the part is positioned strictly horizontally.

  • Then the inner corner and floor guide profiles must be connected with load-bearing parts (CD). Pieces of the required length (9.5 cm) are cut, after which they are screwed to the U-shaped parts with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is 30-40 cm.
  • At the last stage, the profile adjacent to the bathtub must be foamed with polyurethane foam to avoid possible fluctuations. As a result, you should get the structure shown in the illustration below.

If you go to play it safe and fix the profiles on the walls and floor with dowels, then you need to drill the holes with drills on the tiles (with sharp heads), otherwise there is a danger of destroying the decorative finish.

  1. Doing outer corner indentations for the legs. I will use two U-shaped guides, nested into each other in such a way that I get a kind of profiled pipe square... So:
    • I put two UD-parts into each other, and then I fix them in several places with small self-tapping screws. The length of the profiles, as you understand, should be equal to the distance between the opposite wall guides. It is enough to grab these parts in about 4 places only so that they do not disintegrate during the assembly process.

  • I insert the corner guide into the wall profiles. It is necessary to position the part so that the self-tapping screws with which it is fastened are located below and above. The profile will fit snugly into place, after which you need to check the correctness of its installation using building level and then secure in place with self-tapping screws. I will show the assembly unit near one of the walls in the photo.

  1. I sew the ceiling part of the footwell with plasterboard. This must be done before the end of the installation of the frame, since due to the small size of the recess, it will not be possible to do this later for objective reasons. The hemming work is done like this:
    • Using a tape measure, the distance from the outer to the inner profile of the recess is measured, after which a part of the corresponding width is cut out of the drywall sheet. In length, it should be equal to the distance from wall to wall. You will most likely need to use two pieces of drywall. I got it like this.

  • Several pieces 3-4 cm long are cut from the U-shaped profile. And one piece from the CD-profile, which will be needed to splicate two sheets of drywall. After that, you need to expose these parts flush with the edge of the gypsum board at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. To make it more convenient, a whole UD profile can be placed under the adjacent edge of the drywall. It should look like this:

  • After that, all the parts must be attached to the drywall sheet with ordinary self-tapping screws. 2-4 pieces each. Make sure that the cut of the part exactly matches the cut of the HA L. As a result, you should get the structure shown below.

  • According to the number of staples attached to the drywall sheet, another part with ears is cut out, which will rest on the profiles from above. The shape of this part is shown in the photograph.

  • I fix the plasterboard structure. To do this, you need to insert it into place and press it from below with scraps more tightly to the frame. After that, insert the parts with the ears (see above) into the proper places and fix it all with self-tapping screws. As a result, the horizontal part of the binder will be firmly fixed. The essence of the operation can be understood from the illustration.

  1. I install additional supporting elements of the frame. They will need a C-shaped drywall profile. The work is done as follows:
    • I cut out a detail from the bearing profile, the length of which corresponds to the distance between the walls minus 0.5 cm. After that, I insert it into the U-shaped wall guides approximately in the middle of the height between the upper guide and the lower corner profile. I fix the part with self-tapping screws, "bugs".
    • From the same C-shaped profiles, I cut out parts with ears that will play the role of vertical stiffeners - two at the top and bottom of the bathroom frame. I install them in their proper places and fix them with self-tapping screws. You should get this design.

Stage 4 - Plasterboard sheathing

Basically, the main task is to correctly design the frame. But the fastening of drywall should not be taken carelessly. Therefore, I will try to describe the sheathing scheme in as much detail as possible:

  1. I cut out sheets of drywall to sew the main plane of the screen. The width of the gypsum plasterboard parts should be such that it closely adjoins the upper cut of the bath, but does not protrude beyond the border of the plasterboard sheet at the corner of the recess for the legs. You can cut drywall using a regular utility knife with replaceable blades.

  1. I fix the drywall sheets to the frame. This must be done using black self-tapping screws that are protected from corrosion. The sequence of actions is as follows:
    • The first drywall sheet is applied to the frame. It needs to be positioned so that it is flush with the bottom edge of the footwell. After that, I recommend grabbing the part in several places with self-tapping screws, so that it is more convenient to carry out its further fastening.

    • After the sheet is tacked and the correctness of its installation is checked, you can crimp the gypsum board using self-tapping screws. They must be screwed into all support and guide profiles. The distance between adjacent fasteners is 30 cm. Do not forget to screw the self-tapping screws into the vertical jumpers.

  • After finishing work on the first sheet, the same should be done with the second. Remember that at the junction of two gypsum boards there should be a gap of 2 mm to compensate for the possible expansion of the material during operation. Later, this joint can be putty or covered with tile glue during the tiling process.

  1. I'm covering the front of the screen with ceramic tiles. This should be done at this stage, before the plasterboard is sewn up and the recess for the legs is formed. In my case, I use a large and heavy floor tile:
    • Glue is applied to the tile (you need to select a composition that is specially designed to hold heavy tiles), after which it is distributed over it with a notched trowel.
    • The decorative piece is pressed against the drywall and then leveled with a level. To prevent the tiles from sliding down before the glue dries, you can use spacers made of pieces of wood or drywall.
    • The second tile is glued in the same way. In my case, I had to trim it a little, then processing the edge with a "turtle", removing a small chamfer from it.
    • After the glue had set, I rubbed the joint between the two tiles with a joint of a suitable color. It turned out something like this.

  1. Plasterboard plasterboard recess for the legs. This should be done after the glue has hardened, holding the tile on the main part of the screen. The scheme of work is as follows:
    • I measure the height from the floor to the top of the footwell. Should be about 8 cm if previous measurements were taken correctly.
    • After that, I cut parts of the desired height from the gypsum board (8 cm minus the thickness of the tile and glue). Their length should be such that the cuts fall exactly on the transverse strength members of the frame. In the central part there will be an inspection hatch, so doing in this part should be 1-2 cm apart from adjacent ones.

Stage 5 - Tiling

I have already glued the main part of the tile (see point 3 in the previous section). It remains only to veneer the recess for the legs. This is done as follows:

  1. Covering the ceiling of the footwell:
    • Several blanks are cut from the tile. Their width should be such that they fit snugly between the back of the recess frame and the overhanging part of the tile that is glued to the front of the screen.
    • Tile adhesive is applied to the workpiece and spread over it with a spatula. You need to use a special ceiling composition. Its consistency should be thicker than usual in order to hold the part tightly in place after installation.
    • After that, the tile is inserted into the recess and secured with spacers made of pieces.

  1. Sewing up the vertical wall of the footwell with plasterboard. This should be done after the lining of the ceiling is finished. Make sure the glue is completely dry and holds the decorative material in place. Further work is built in this way:
    • Along the edges of the recess, drywall is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws. We do not sew up the central part yet, since there will be a revision hole in this place.
    • I glue tiles to these details. You need to act in the way described above: cut out the parts of the required dimensions (make sure that the corners of the tile are equal to 90 degrees), process the edge, spread the tile with glue and press it against the drywall.

  • There must be a seam between the floor and the tiles in the recess so that it can be sealed with silicone. You can make it using plastic wedges that are sold in a hardware store.
  1. I am making a door for an inspection hole. To make the screen look beautiful, I will make it from tiles and will not insert a plastic door. The scheme is as follows:
    • A piece of suitable length is cut out of the tile, which completely covers the revision hole.
    • Four holes are drilled along the edges with a crown, into which self-tapping screws will be screwed.
    • After that, the tile is glued onto a piece of drywall (we cut it out in advance).
    • The whole structure is screwed into the frame crossbars with suitable self-tapping screws.

It remains only to seal all the seams with silicone.

Summary

If you follow this sequence of steps exactly, you will have a durable and beautiful homemade bath screen. Another simple instruction is described in the video in this article.

You can leave your opinion on the information contained in this material in the comments.

August 25, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

The screen is not an obligatory part of the bath, but it can be used to close communications and other unsightly "views" under the bath. In our article, we will consider how you can make this design yourself, because in some non-standard situations it is simply impossible to purchase a screen that is suitable in shape and size.

Why cover the bathtub with a screen?

WITH modern baths the set usually immediately comes with screens that are suitable in all respects - the installation of such a structure will not take an hour. But if we are talking about steel or cast iron products, then screens are not provided for them, therefore there are only three options: buy it, leave the space open, or make a screen for a bath with your own hands.

Whether to use such a screen for the bath or not - the decision must be made by the owner of the apartment himself, but most likely everyone wants to have a beautiful and neat bathroom, because it is the cladding that makes the room complete and attractive. appearance closing unsightly communication. But aesthetics are not the only reason for installing such a product. So, you can make a screen, additionally equipping it with small containers for storing various containers, jars with household goods, which means you can save a significant amount of space in the room.

In addition, when using a bath without a screen, water can get under it, dirt begins to accumulate - all this will soon lead to a dangerous fungus. In addition, the floor in the room wears out faster, losing its attractiveness. It is the installation of the screen that will avoid such problems.

What are the design requirements?

Exists different options arrangement of such a structure, however, when choosing a material, shape, etc., one should take into account the basic requirements for the screen. First of all, remember that this product is installed for a bathroom, which means that it will be used in humid conditions, the material of manufacture must be moisture resistant, capable of withstanding sharp temperature fluctuations.

If this is not taken into account, then literally in a couple of months a fungus will begin to appear on the material, it will begin to collapse under the influence of external factors. It is important to remember about tightness, water should not get into the space under the bathroom itself. But it is also impossible to completely close the air supply - the lack of ventilation will lead to the appearance of mold. That is why it is necessary to provide for doors or windows in the design.

There are some other requirements as well:

  • When arranging the screen, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of quick access to the main communications.
  • The product should not interfere with the approach to the bathroom, for which a special recess for the legs can be made in it, which is very important for small rooms.

The first thing you need to do is make a frame to mount the screen. It can be made of bricks, metal profiles, a bar of wood. Moreover, it is better to do brickwork to install a tile screen so that it can withstand the weight of the material, in the case of working with plastic panels or sheets of gypsum board, other options can be used. But let's talk about everything in more detail.

  • Brickwork

This option is rightfully considered the most reliable. Such a base will withstand any material. Erect brick wall you need from one wall to the other, performing laying in half a brick. In this case, you need to make a new row with a slight offset to the side. We make a gap of 2-3 cm between the upper side of the bath and the masonry, and after it dries cement mortar, fill the gap with polyurethane foam. Also, when arranging the masonry, do not forget to make a comfortable notch for the legs.

  • Wooden lathing

Such a frame will also be quite strong, but the main disadvantage of wood is that it begins to rot when it is in wet conditions for a long time. Therefore, it is better to use cedar, alder or larch to create the frame. To equip the structure, you will need beams with a cross section of 4 * 4 cm. When carrying out work, it is very important to correctly mark the places for installing the structure, by skipping this stage, you will ensure that the frame starts to go to the side.

For getting flat construction do the markup:

  1. 1. Draw vertical lines from the corners of the tub (which are adjacent to the walls) to the base using a plumb line.
  2. 2. Step back 3 cm and make a second vertical line completely parallel to the first.
  3. 3. Draw a vertical line from the free corner of the bathroom and at the point of contact of the line with the base draw a square with sides of 3 cm.
  4. 4. From the inner corner of the square we draw horizontal lines to the walls of the bath.

This will be the perimeter along which we will install wooden beams. We attach them to the base with self-tapping screws, after which we mount the vertical posts and fix them to the walls with self-tapping screws. We set horizontal on them wooden bar and fasten it with a corner. Intermediate boards should be installed at a distance of about 0.5 m from the corner posts. To achieve maximum strength, coat all joints with liquid nails.

  • Metal carcass

When making such a frame, it is better to use the PN 27 * 28 profile, which is ideal for the further installation of gypsum board, plastic and MDF panels. If you want to make a frame that can withstand the tiles, it is better to use metal profile pipes, however, in this case you will be faced with the need to carry out welding works... We carry out the marking in the same way as for the wooden lathing. We fasten the lower rail to the floor with dowels, install the side posts on them, fixing them to the walls.

To give the structure strength, make a plank in the middle of the height. We fix the upper profile on the side supports, and to strengthen the upper guide, fold the two profiles together and fasten them together. It remains to mount the vertical racks at a distance of 30-40 cm between each other. After installing the frame, we coat the free space between the bath rim and the structure with polyurethane foam.

What to do if the bathtub is irregular?

The most important thing here is to repeat exactly all the bends of the structure. For the manufacture of the frame, you can use a galvanized metal profile, and for cladding - extruded polystyrene foam of maximum density. Before starting work, it is worth measuring the length of the bath and cutting off a profile of the same size, cutting it every 3 cm.

In the future, adhere to the following instructions:

  1. 1. Attach the profile to the side of the bathtub and secure with tape. Bend it smoothly along the cuts made and continue to secure with tape over short distances. To hold the shape, also glue the tape along its entire length.
  2. 2. Carefully detach the profile from the bathtub and fix it to the floor, gently sliding it inward to the thickness of the profile. If you will be using tiles to create a screen, then in addition to the thickness of the material itself, add about 5 mm more to the glue and putty.
  3. 3. Cut off two sections of the profile (focusing on the height of the bath), attach to the walls with self-tapping screws. Cut the expanded polystyrene into separate panels about 20 cm wide and insert each panel into the profile with the low end and the upper end under the bath rim.

Immediately treat the inside with polyurethane foam. Carry out the installation of all panels, not forgetting to leave a small distance for the hatch. It can be mounted after the foam has hardened. It remains to carefully putty the entire surface. After the mixture has dried, you can decorate the screen with tiles, gypsum board or other materials.

Do-it-yourself screen - step-by-step instructions

To create a high-quality screen, you need certain tools and materials that will allow you to do the job quickly and efficiently. The devices used in the work must be selected based on the material.

When working with plastic, you will need:

  • Bars for props.
  • Liquid Nails.
  • Profiles with fasteners.
  • The right amount of plastic panels.

Of the tools, you can not do without a stapler, puncher, cutting knife, square. Before starting work, be sure to measure the marking line so that it completely repeats the outline of the bath. After that, attach the profile to the covering, and the fastening must be carried out from the inner edge (where you will install the plastic panels).

The use of liquid nails will ensure that there is no damage both on the bath itself and on all surfaces. We also fix the panels to the bars with liquid nails: from the bottom we fix a piece of material along the upper part of the profile, since we need to additionally leave free place for installing skirting boards. It is important to understand that to install last panel you need to be skillful, try to combine the first and last parts so that you do not additionally trim.

How to mount a tile screen? Ceramic tiles are a popular material for making screens, since this material has not only visual appeal, but also reliability and durability. Pleases and a huge variety of options for color and texture. For the installation of such a structure, prepare metal corners, drywall, tiles, metal profiles. Everything is quite simple here: after assembling the metal frame, it needs to be sewn up with sheets of gypsum board, and tile glue is applied on top and the tiles are mounted.

To install a screen from gypsum plasterboard sheets, you will need similar tools as when working with tiles. After installing the frame and sheets of gypsum board, simply apply decorative plaster on top, cover with moisture-repellent wallpaper, for example, vinyl for decorating the front of the screen.

Features of the arrangement of the screen for corner baths

The corner bath has a non-standard shape, you will have to tinker a little when creating the screen, but the time spent will allow you to enjoy the result of your work for a long time.

A curved product is best made of plastic, since drywall sheets are quite difficult to bend and even more so in this form to install on a rigid profile.

To mount the frame, place the rails on the floor so that they follow the shape of the bathtub. TO top panel using liquid nails, we attach wooden blocks to secure the upper rail. The plastic panel is cut the right size and fits neatly into the guide panel - the bottom joints can be covered with a skirting board.

A corner bathtub made of brickwork and decorated with mosaics. After completing the work, all joints on the structure should be sealed with a moisture-resistant sealant.

Content

To make the bathroom beautiful and stylish, you need to take care of all the little things that can break the harmony. This primarily concerns under the bathroom which often spoils the whole elaborate design. Open pipes look unaesthetic, and a rag and a floor bucket distract from contemplation cozy interior... So how can you get rid of ugly species and improve the premises? This will help you bath screen... It perfectly hides the free space and gives the composition a completeness and laconic look.

Of course, you can purchase a screen in a store (sometimes it even comes with a bathtub) or contact a specialist. But there is nothing difficult in doing this work yourself.

First, you need to decide what kind of screen suits your requirement. There are only two of them: sliding and solid... The latter requires less effort and materials, it looks great, but has certain limitations.

  • The solid screen does not allow storing various cleaning accessories, as well as chemicals (cleaners, washing powders, etc.) in the space under the bathroom.
  • Solid screen does not leave access to pipes... As a result of a leak or the need to replace the pipe, you will have to disassemble the screen, do all the work, and then reassemble it. However, craftsmen offer a great way to get rid of this shortcoming - plumbing doors and hatches. They allow you to maintain the integrity of the screen, but at the same time give access to the pipes.

If you don't know how to do plasterboard bath screen then follow this simple and popular instruction.

  1. Prepare the slats, which will hold the whole structure. Two of them should be equal to the inner line of the bath in length minus 1.2 centimeters. And two other lines of the same width are minus 0.8 centimeters. Also you will need four slats for the four corners of the bathtub to connect to the floor.
  2. Vertical elements can be spread out to the corners immediately. Then horizontal slats are attached to them (on the narrow and on the wide sides). Those slats that end up against the wall must be screwed to it with screws. All elements should be firmly fastened among themselves in the same way.
  3. Then cut out the elements from the drywall sheet required size. Remember that rooms with high humidity require a material with a special impregnation, which prevents it from swelling and deteriorating.
  4. Then screw drywall to the wooden crate. A draft of the screen is ready. You can complement it with a plumbing hatch and then finish it with plastic or tiles.

DIY sliding screen under the bathtub

It is impossible to completely get rid of the disadvantages of a solid screen. You can get to the pipes through the hatch (often with great difficulty), but you won't be able to hide the bucket in the space under the bathroom. Sliding screen may look less aesthetically pleasing, but it more functional than his "brother".

To make it, you also need wooden slats that will become the basis for the screen. But to such a frame, instead of drywall, as in the first version, you need to attach guide profile along the length of the bath, to which the doors will be attached.

It is best to fix it with self-tapping screws, but you can also use liquid nails.

Advice. If you want your screen to look perfect, then place two starter strips on the sides, attaching them to the walls.

Then you need cut panels suitable size and fit into the finished profile. Please note that the dimensions of the elements should be such that the doors overlap each other by several centimeters, then your screen will look beautiful, and you will not have to waste time on perfect fit of the doors to each other.

DIY bath screen: photo, video and step-by-step instructions


Do-it-yourself bath screen: sliding and regular. How to make a screen for a bath quickly and inexpensively.

DIY bath screen

The screen serves as a screen for communications leading to the bathroom. Under it are perfectly hidden legs of a bathtub installed on lining, a drain, sewer outlets, pipes. But besides the functions related to the aesthetics of space, the screen can also do other useful work. For example, serve as a support for the stability of the bath or be a closet for small things.

DIY bath screen

Acrylic bathtubs and other representatives of the latest generation of plumbing are often immediately equipped with a screen, ideal for hiding dark corners and communications. But what if the bathtub is old and you don't want to see its shabby sides every day? You can purchase a ready-made screen, and if you do not want to spend money on a store option or you need the screen under the bathroom to meet your requirements 100 percent, you can make a screen under the bath with your own hands. Here are several ways to create a screen.

Screen views

  1. Deaf / providing access to the space under the bathroom.
  2. Straight / curved.
  3. With / without foot recess.
  4. For a regular bath / for a bath with an unusual shape (triangular, etc.).

Bathroom screen

The screen providing access to the bathroom is made with sliding doors or with a built-in cabinet for household chemicals; can have vertically or horizontally opening cavities. It is advisable to equip vertical opening structures according to the jalousie principle or equip them with gas lifts and other fasteners familiar to furniture makers.

Bath screen requirements

  1. Any materials used for the screen-screen must provide easy, quick access to the sewer nodes located under the bathroom and other communications laid there. For this, a technological opening is required in the screen, which can be easily closed using a plug or a door.
  2. The space under the bath tub must be sealed off from the rest of the bathroom floor. The area of ​​the floor under the bathroom will thus be protected from moisture accumulation and the development of mold and mildew.
  3. The screen should not interfere with the approach to the bath: for this, it can be provided with a recess for the legs.
  4. The space under the bathroom, despite the screen, should be useful: for rational use voids under the bath bowl or next to it, before installing the screen, a pull-out drawer or cabinet for small things is installed.

Bath screen materials

The materials that you will use in the bathroom should not be afraid of water and moisture, temperature changes. It is also important that they are not subject to rapid decay from mold or mildew.

You can make the base of the screen from almost any building material, and then finish it on the outside to your liking. For cladding, plastic panels or tiles are used.

Homemade screen options:

Plastic panel screen

Homemade bathroom screen with cream shelves

Brick base with front tile cladding

The fastest way is the blind sheathing of the frame under the bathroom with MDF panels. The strips of plastic or MDF are biologically neutral and practical. These materials are easy to cut and bond together.

After erection, the brick base will need to be sheathed and plastered or glued to tiles. And before installing a wooden frame, the wood must be covered with a special impregnation to protect it from moisture.

Plastic screen. MDF paneling

A screen made of MDF or plastic lining will be the most simple option, which will allow you to immediately get a finishing surface. The MDF screen is easily disassembled, and the plastic sheathing is the most economical - if any part is damaged, it can be replaced.

The plastic for shielding the space is attached to the frame, for the formation of which a wooden beam 40 x 40 mm or a metal profile is used. A moisture-resistant primer is required for wood.

  1. Marking is applied along the perimeter of the bath using a plumb line.

Then a starting profile is installed on it, screwing it with self-tapping screws and reinforcing it with a sealant or glue. The line for installing the frame should be laid along the entire length of the future screen. For a tighter joint of the lower part of the profile with the floor, it is imperative to use a layer of sealant. The vertical profile is installed every 60 cm. An additional rack is made where it is planned to place a drawer or shelves.

The frame also allows you to form a recess for the legs. For this, the frame is deepened in the form of a rectangle under the bathroom by 15 cm. In the resulting niche, an inclined installation of plastic strips is permissible.

A profile or timber is also attached under the edge of the bath bowl. Its level is fixed by screwing the guides to the adjacent walls. To give the structure rigidity, you need to fix the profile in the middle of the screen. This is especially important if a soft lining is used, which easily deforms and bends over time. You can fix the bottom profile that runs along the floor with glue or sealant.

  1. Cutting of MDF and plastic panels is done in advance. For working with plastic, it is convenient to use a cutter or a construction knife. The surface of the screen is taken from the panels, and where there should be a technological hole, a cut is made into which a grill or door is inserted.

It is also necessary to cut ventilation slots in the finished plastic screen (on the side where there is no "window"). The recommended slot width is 3 x 5 cm. The ventilation hole is covered with a plastic grill.

Important! When installing a blank screen, make sure that all communications, access to which will block the screen, are in good condition.

Drywall screen

The principle of a drywall screen is exactly the same as when working with plastic. First, markings are applied to the bathroom floor. Next, a frame is built from a metal profile or wood. But there is a significant difference: when installing a frame for drywall, you need to take into account that the finish also has a certain thickness. In particular, if it is planned to finish the screen with tiles, the frame must be "sunk" relative to the surface exactly the distance that the finishing layer will take. If the facing material does not affect the wall thickness, then the projection of the frame onto the floor is performed along a plumb line.

DIY bath screen - 5 options!


Learn how to make a DIY bath screen. All about the types of screens and advice on their installation. Photo + video.

Do-it-yourself sliding screen for a bathtub

Each shower room is distinguished by its individual qualities, special appearance and convenience. Various practical requirements have to be taken into account when creating the interior design of a room. First of all, this is due to the unsightly outlines of water pipes and other communications. A do-it-yourself bath screen will help get rid of this problem forever.

This barrier allows you to hide the unsightly appearance of the basement space. In addition, the sliding screen is a real element of the overall design of the shower room, which is why its decorative functions are highly valued. Today there are many variations of products that are created from the most various materials... Given the varied design performance, the room can be transformed beyond recognition.

What are screens for?

Sliding models allow you to make the most of useful area in the shower room. Ordinary panels or doors are not very convenient to use, as they take up a lot of space. In order to make a do-it-yourself bath screen, you need to purchase an ordinary bathroom with attractive supports. The sides of the product should be finished with a special material, which makes it possible for the bath to have a presentable appearance.

Based on the location of the communications in the shower room, it is necessary to select one or another screen model, product profile, as well as the size of the panels. Otherwise, there is a possibility that the selected frame will not work. Water pipes they are always unpleasantly striking, therefore, the structure should be assembled only after careful measurements. Otherwise, it is possible to spoil the overall design of the bathroom, because ugly protrusions do not look very aesthetically pleasing.

However, there is another way out - to buy a typical fence, and do the paneling with your own hands. Usually, when purchasing acrylic products, the installation of plumbing is carried out with ready-made doors. They allow you to close the basement while taking into account space saving, i.e. rational use, which eliminates the appearance of large voids, unlike cast iron or steel products.

In addition, there is another good reason to close the space under the bathroom - the possibility of using this space for domestic needs. Often, these niches store household items, cleaning products or tools. Here you can make wooden or plastic shelves for convenience.

Separately, it should be noted that basement doors help get rid of the accumulation of dirt and dust in hard-to-reach places where microorganisms or insects usually grow.

Thus, the panels help to get rid of various negative consequences caused by unsanitary conditions. The indisputable advantages of these products include their attractive appearance, carefully worked out by designers. Modern technologies make it possible not just to put sliding doors under the bathroom, but also decorate them stylishly, colorful and unique. This gives the shower room its own personality, which distinguishes it from other rooms in the apartment.

What is required?

How to make a screen for a bath, more precisely, from what materials? For the manufacture of sliding panels you will need Basic structure in the form of a profile, as well as the main raw materials from which the composition will be created. In order to determine the choice of material, you need to proceed from the operating conditions of the bathroom, as well as personal preferences. You can carefully think about the image, starting from the tools available.

Separately, it should be noted that sometimes wooden elements are allowed, but they must be moisture resistant, for example, beech or bog oak. In addition, you should decide on the type of valves, i.e. by the design itself. Screens come with sliding elements, with only one door, tightly closed, and also with a special niche for the legs. All these parameters are very individual and are suitable for different shower rooms and directly depend on the owner's taste or his financial capabilities.

DIY installation. Plastic

In order to create a full-fledged screen, you need to purchase some tools. Usually, the necessary inventory, as well as related materials, are purchased for them. This will allow for self-assembly to do all the work not only quickly, but also efficiently. Devices should be selected based on the material itself, for example, for wood, you will need a saw or jigsaw, and for ceramic tiles, a glass cutter.

For plastic panels you need:

  • Wooden blocks for building structures or supports.
  • Liquid nails for fastening various materials.
  • Lightweight UD profiles with their own fixings.
  • Directly plastic blanks.

Separately, it is worth discussing some points, since often the bathrooms in most apartments have a combined look. This means that there is a need to take into account the sewerage device scheme, i.e. toilet. The positioned toilet is an obstacle that must be carefully avoided when installing the screen and then using it. The standard set of tools for installation is:

  1. construction stapler;
  2. puncher;
  3. specialized knife for drywall;
  4. screwdriver;
  5. square.

In order to install a screen that will repeat all the outlines of the bath, you need to measure a line or put markings that repeat all the curves of the bath. After that, using screws, a profile made of metal or wooden bars is attached to flooring... Fastening is made from the inner edge, i.e. the place where the plastic panels will be installed. Using liquid nails, the bathroom itself and the surrounding surface are not damaged. Bars of wood, fixed with self-tapping screws, will ideal option for cladding with the selected material.

Plastic strips are attached to the sticks, again with liquid nails. At the bottom, a piece of plastic is attached to the top of the profile, as there should be enough space for the plastic skirting board. For this, self-tapping screws are best suited for metal products. In this case, you need to pay attention to the final stage.

This is due to the fact that it is very difficult to attach the last strip, since it is necessary to have a certain skill. You should try to match the first and final parts, and then put on the side panel. At the same time, the resulting structure must have a sufficient tightness of fit between the parts. This is verified by checking the shrinkage of the grooves.

A do-it-yourself bath screen can be assembled from various materials. One of these is the tile that is used to decorate sliding panels. She has an external appeal and high performance. In addition, tiles are very common, and in stores they have an extensive assortment, so there should be no problems with choosing a color or texture.

For its installation you will need:

  • special corners made of metal;
  • door hinges;
  • moisture resistant drywall;
  • various fastening parts;
  • tile;
  • timber bars or metal profiles.

Decorating with ceramic products is carried out according to proven technology. To begin with, a solid frame is assembled as the basis for the entire future structure. For this, wood or metal is usually used, the latter option is, of course, better. After that, the resulting workpiece is sheathed with plasterboard panels. Tiles are applied to this base, which will face side screen.

Drywall

For the installation of a drywall structure, you will need identical materials and devices as for tiles. This is due to the similarity of the process, since they are almost identical and are an integral part of each other. The very surface of the shower room screen can be pasted over with vinyl wallpaper, decorative plaster or tiled. In any case, the resulting fencing will have an attractive appearance.

One of the most exclusive and rare options is the fabric partition. It is great for a non-standard way to isolate a basement room, however, at the same time, the practicality of the screen is somewhat lost. This is primarily due to the increased care of the coating, since the fabric requires a little more attention than the rest of the materials. Covering panels can be done independently, using available tools.

For this option, the following types of matter are used:

  1. Nylon. Her distinctive feature- water resistance.

For a screen made of fabric, it is best to prepare a metal frame or wood profiles. On the one hand, these decisions look rather strange, however, they have a practical justification. In addition, the fabric can be combined with various finishing materials or used as curtains. In the form of panels, fabric raw materials are rarely used and are used to a greater extent as an addition.

Acrylic bathroom screens are panels of various shapes, types and colors. They, as a rule, come complete with acrylic products, it is enough to install them correctly and they will last more than one year. Installation of the frame does not create any difficulties and can be done by hand.

Decorative MDF panels look good as a sliding screen in the shower room. Their installation is carried out by analogy with drywall, however, it differs in that it is necessary to add anti-flu compounds, and more thoroughly prime the surface. Separately, it should be noted that the material must be moisture resistant.

How to make a do-it-yourself bath screen


How to make a sliding screen under the bath with your own hands? What are screens for and what is required to make it. Installation from different materials.

How to make a do-it-yourself bath screen?

An excellent way to hide all the plumbing communications and make the room complete is to install a screen under the bathtub. And in order for the screen to fit perfectly into the interior of the bathroom and you save money at the same time, you can make it yourself.

Self-production of a screen for a bath

A bathtub installed without a screen does not look very elegant even in the tidiest and most stylish bathroom. Therefore, you should think carefully about how you can close the space under it in such a way that access to plumbing communications is not closed and all functionality is preserved.

A special screen installed under the bath can become a universal solution to this problem. And in order to get a beautiful, unique and unusual interior detail at the same time, it is necessary to abandon the finished purchased screen and make a screen for the bath with your own hands.

Which material should you choose?

The easiest to manufacture and most popular screens are plastic ones, which are not afraid of dampness and are quite durable. The screen can be covered with a special film or made of multi-colored plastic, matching the tone to the bathroom interior.

Those who are not going to use the space under the bathroom as storage can install themselves plasterboard screens, which should be equipped with a door so that you have access to plumbing equipment if necessary.

Supporting frame

For each screen, you need to build a special frame, on which you then need to attach the panels themselves. The frame can be made from an aluminum or wooden profile with parameters 40x40, 30x30, 25x25.

Before starting work, it is imperative to make markings on the floor and walls in order to indicate as accurately as possible all the lines along which the screen under the bath will be installed with your own hands. You can also install transverse profiles which will help to strengthen the screen and give additional rigidity to the entire structure.

Then all the profiles must be joined together and attached to the floor and walls of the bathroom.

Brick screen construction

Quite original and at the same time stylish solution can become a brick screen, which will then be finished decorative plaster or tiles... Such a screen can easily be made by yourself.

Starting work, you need to mark the future screen in such a way that the edge of the bath is flush with its wall.

You should also make vertical markings on the opposite wall. When laying bricks, this marking will be a guideline. It is recommended to lay the masonry on a cement-sand mortar of ¼ or ½ brick.

If you wish, you can make a special niche for the legs in the screen and be sure to build a small door so that you have access to plumbing communications and a drain. Such a door can be made with your own hands from plastic panels or you can buy a ready-made one in a store.

Popular screens

Screen made of plastic lining

This screen is the cheapest, besides, it is very easy to manufacture and install. The plastic does not need any additional finishing, so you can use the bathroom immediately after installation. If necessary, such a structure can be easily disassembled in order to open access to the space under the bathroom.

Before starting the installation, you should stock up on all necessary materials: in addition to the panels themselves, you will also need a start profile, which will need to be fixed around the entire perimeter of the screen.

In order to prevent the plastic from losing its shape and bending over time, it is necessary to strengthen the frame with an additional profile installed in the middle of the structure.

Installation should begin with gluing the bottom of the profile to the floor using a sealant. Then you need to cut the strips of the lining with a construction knife and insert them into the starting profile. It is only necessary to cut a hole in advance in the place where the door will be located.

Plasterboard sheathing

For the manufacture of such a screen, you should use a special drywall, which is designed for rooms with high humidity levels.

One of the main advantages of a drywall screen is that it can be built in the form of a niche with small shelves, so that it can be successfully replaced in a small bathroom with a chest of drawers or wardrobe.

Such a screen is made from sheets of drywall, which are fixed on a frame assembled from wooden blocks or a metal profile. Depending on how the bathtub itself will be located, the frame can be installed either on only one side of the bathtub, or on both sides at once. The amount of materials you need to build the screen depends on which option you ultimately choose.

In order to make such a screen for a bath with your own hands, you will need the drywall itself, paint, impregnations and sealants, a drywall profile and putty.

Work should begin with marking the frame. Then you need to assemble the frame from the profile in accordance with the future shape of the screen and install it with a screwdriver and drill under the bathroom.

First of all, you need to fix the smaller part of the structure, then the larger one and then fasten them together. After the drywall sheets are fixed to the frame, their surface must be treated with a sealant, putty and primed. When all layers are dry, finishing work can begin.

Remember that it is imperative to provide a technological hole.

Ceramic Tile Screen

Ceramic tiles can be used to decorate screens made of brick, MDF or drywall. First, you should prime the surface, then put putty on it and wait until it is completely dry. Then you need to carefully wipe the surface with sandpaper and prime it again.

The tiles must be laid in the same way as usual, using crosses for joints, special glue and grout. The advantages of such a screen are its durability and decorative effect.

If desired, some interesting can be selected color combination, and you can even make sliding doors, which will be a little more expensive and more complicated.

MDF paneling

Before installation, it is necessary to impregnate MDF boards with special impregnations, as they are afraid of moisture. Then they need to be coated with a primer and fixed to the frame in the same way as gypsum plasterboards.

For additional protection such a screen from dampness, you need to make air vent, which should be located away from the service door. Most often, for this purpose, a small cut is made 2-3 cm wide and 5-10 cm long. general view bathroom and was not conspicuous, it must be closed with a decorative plastic lattice.

You can trim the MDF screen with plastic or tiles.

Screen designed for acrylic bathtub

Such a bath is more fragile than a cast iron one, so you need to be very careful when installing the screen. Its design is no different from that for a cast iron bath.

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to apply markings on the side of the bathtub and mark the places where the screen will be fixed.

Then the upper part should be aligned with the side of the bath and also mark it on it, which should coincide with the marks on the side.

The screen can be attached to the bathtub using self-tapping screws and mounting pins.

To make the entry points of the self-tapping screws invisible, it is recommended to close them with special plugs painted to match the bathtub. Also, you can build a brick screen, although you first need to make the screen itself, and only then install the bath on top of it.

PVC Panel Screen

To make such a screen, you will need plastic or aluminum guide profiles, standard plastic panels, self-tapping screws and a square pipe, the cross-section of which should be 10x10 mm.

The first step is to make a frame from a pair of parallel tubes that must be connected across the same tube. You need to place vertical racks depending on the size of the screen.

After painting the pipes, you need to install guides on them - attach one to the upper frame, and the other to the lower one. After that, the panels should be cut and inserted into the grooves of the guides.

Screen shape

Usually, screens that are installed under the bathtub, taking into account the shape of the bathtub itself and the characteristics of the room, are made rectangular. The only exception can be screens designed for corner baths, which have a curved design.

Depending on what material the bath screen is made of, you can improve it or add some features to it.

For example, plasterboard or brick screens may have small footwells to keep your feet from hitting the wall. Such a niche can be either inclined or straight. The screens may also differ in the way they are opened - hinged or sliding. The second option is preferable, since in this case you will not need additional space for the doors.

How to make a sliding screen yourself?

It is best to make a sliding screen from plastic lining or PVC panels, since these materials are the easiest to work with, and the screen that is made of them turns out to be very durable.

You will need a special aluminum profile for installation, from which all door guides will be made.

First, it is necessary to carry out the installation of the frame, on which the guides should be installed. The length of the guides should be equal to the distance between the walls or the length of the bathroom.

The doors should be fixed to the frame by placing them in the first profile groove on the sides of the screen. The central part is most often made stationary, and placed in the middle groove.

With the help of spacer bolts, the finished screen must be attached to the bath, and furniture handles must be installed on the movable doors.

Screens for corner baths

If you want to create a screen for a corner bath with your own hands, then you need to take into account that materials such as drywall are not easy to bend yourself and then place on a rigid frame. Therefore, the most the best solution the screen will be made of plastic, which is relatively inexpensive, is not afraid of moisture and bends well. In addition, plastic panels of various shades are currently available.

The first step is to attach the plastic rails to the bathroom floor by repeating the curve of the bathtub itself. Using liquid nails, you need to attach wooden blocks to the top, which will serve to fix the upper rail.

Another version of the screen can be a brick screen, because the masonry can be made of any shape, and then decorate it with mosaics or tiles. But such a screen must be built first, and then a bathroom must be installed on it.

How to make a do-it-yourself bath screen? Types and arrangement of screens


How and how to make a do-it-yourself bath screen? What are the features different types bathroom screens? Video.