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If the developer has to provide the drainage in the apartment of a high-rise building, then the sewerage wiring in a private house has to be done with your own hands or you have to invite specialists. Anyway Vacation home, cottage or even small cottage implies independent arrangement, at least to a minimum during the construction of the building or after its construction, which can cause problems. Let's not talk about primitive cesspools - the purpose of this instruction is correct installation septic tank in compliance with all the requirements of SanPiN 2.1.4.027-95 and SNiP 2.04.01-85.
Schematic diagram of an autonomous sewage system in the private sector
SNiP and SaNPiN indicate General requirements but a document detailing these provisions may be in force in each region or province. For example, in the Moscow region, there is a document TSN 40-301-97 (TSN ViV-97), which was developed for treatment facilities of low productivity, which is quite consistent with the private sector. In 2000 by Russian Federation another document was adopted, on the basis of which an environmental conclusion is made and a certificate is issued for sewage treatment plant, this is SanPiN 2.1.5.980-00. Of course, hardly any of the homeowners will delve into the study of such requirements, but there is such a thing as the correct sewage system and all the standards that qualified plumbers adhere to are taken from there.
Perhaps, to someone, the fulfillment of such requirements will seem like a banal bureaucracy, in which legislative officials are mired, but this is not so, because the state of superficial groundwater... That is, if someone (for example, in a neighbor's yard) leaks a treatment structure, then the wastewater will not only be absorbed into the ground, but will fall into the same groundwater. In such a situation, there may be a danger of contamination of water bodies, wells and wells made "on the sand" (not artesian).
Of course, it is best when the sewage system is in a private house, and not after its construction, but the situations, unfortunately, are different. A house could have been built, for example, 40-50 years ago, and at that time a hermetically sealed cesspool was an excellent indicator, both for neighbors and for a solar power plant, but now the requirements have changed and it is often necessary to modify old projects if there is a desire to comply hygiene, and not only for your own body. First of all, this concerns the distances between the septic tank and other objects provided for by the SanPiN.
The minimum distances between the septic tank and other objects provided for by SanPiN
First you need to calculate the sewerage scheme, taking into account vital objects and, of course, the exterior of your own site, so that the hatch of the well with the revision does not end up on the path or site in the yard. Here is a list of the basic requirements that you will have to face when installing a septic tank for a home, summer cottage or SNT:
Note. The list indicates the minimum distances, the observance of which will protect you from conflicts with legislation (SES services) and claims of neighbors.
If we talk about the depth of the pipeline, then the optimal installation will be below the freezing point of the soil, but this is not always possible, and not always necessary. In some northern regions this figure reaches two meters (!) And the digging of such trenches, plus a pit for the tank, which will be even deeper, somehow does not cause positive emotions. Therefore, for heating pipelines in the northern regions, various synthetic (mineral) heaters are used, as well as a heating cable.
First of all, the sewerage device in a private house begins with determining the points that correspond to the project plan of the house, so such markings are easy to do with your own hands. That is, all nodes must be connected to a common waste pipe that goes outside and directs the wastewater to the septic tank.
The principle of placing plumbing fixtures in a residential area
The image above shows the principle of sequencing the placement of bathrooms - this is the most the best option, although if absolutely necessary, rearrangements are possible with the exception of the bidet and toilet:
Avoid 90 ° angles on pipe bends
First of all, you should always remember that blockages are possible in the funnel piping system and they occur most often at bends - the steeper the bend, the more likely it is for solid waste to accumulate. First of all, this concerns the general route and drainage from the toilet, that is, those places where the drains carry solids with them. Therefore, if there is a need for a tie-in or a usual turn at a right angle, then for this it is better to use two fittings of 45 ° or three of 30 ° (see photo above) - the likelihood of blockage will be reduced by at least half. If the wiring has to be done in a built house, then the pipes, as a rule, are laid in grooves, although in the walls they are sometimes hidden under the frame finish, for example, under.
table optimal slopes fan pipes for sewerage distribution pop SNiP 2.04.01-85 and 2.04.03-85
Laying the pipeline at a slope
Let's talk about slopes. Any sewer system will be useless if the required slope is not observed when laying pipes (see the table above). On the drain of an automatic washing machine or dishwasher there is a pump that forcibly dumps water, but the rest of the plumbing fixtures (sink, sink, bidet, toilet) need a natural drainage system. If the slope is less, then the water does not have time to carry away solid waste, and if it is more, then this waste does not keep up with the flow and as a result, both in one and in the other case, settle on the inner walls of the pipes, which gradually leads to their clogging.
Tee 100 × 50 mm and rubber reduction
Fan pipes Ø 40-50 mm are mainly used for draining soapy or oily water, but without solid deposits (feces), therefore, turns by 30 °, 45 ° and 90 ° are made there as necessary, without worrying about a smooth bend. Sometimes you just have to update the sewer wiring and it turns out, then partially remain cast iron pipes that need to be spliced with new PVC, but they have different diameters. Therefore, for such purposes, rubber reductions are provided, as in the photo on the right side.
Internal wiring of the sewerage system before pouring the foundation
Of course, the sewerage wiring does not have to be done before the foundation is poured, but, nevertheless, a passage hole must be provided in the tape - this is much easier than hammering it into frozen concrete. But there is one more point: after a certain time, the pipe may become unusable and will have to be replaced. Let it not be soon, after a few decades, but it is better to ensure freedom of dismantling and for this, a sleeve is first installed in the foundation tape or in the partition, that is, a piece of pipe of a larger diameter, through which the necessary wiring is then passed.
Withdrawal principle fan pipe to the septic tank
If you make a sewage system in a private house with your own hands, then the layout of pipes and containers will also be needed for the street, but taking into account the minimum distances provided for by SanPiN 2.1.5.980-00 (see above, in the section "Sanitary standards for installing septic tanks" ). As a rule, a plastic pipe with an outer Ø110 mm (inner Ø100 mm) is laid from the house through the foundation, which means that the difference in depth between the point of exit through the tape and the point of entry into the tank will be x linear meters multiplied by 3 mm (see the table in the section " Indoor sewerage wiring "). Suppose the length of the track (trench) is 20 m, which means that the difference between the depth of the outlet and the entrance to the septic tank should be 20 * 0.02 = 0.4 m.Now let's see what this means in practice.
PVC pipes It is best to lay on the sand
Knowing the difference in the depth of laying the pipeline, the trench is also dug with a slope, but it is almost impossible to dig it with a flat bottom, so for leveling a sand cushion 3-5 cm thick (as needed) is poured and tamped. It is very simple to mount pipes at a given level, but this requires a meter or one and a half meter tool and a backing (can be made of wood). If you use a meter, then you need to cut out a chip 2 cm thick and put it under one edge, while the level should show a horizontally flat plane. If the level is one and a half meters, then the gasket should be 3 cm thick.
In the dug soil, there are most often sharp stones, broken glass or metal fragments, and these are piercing and cutting objects that can harm the PVC wall of the pipe. Therefore, in order to avoid such incidents, the track is first covered with sand (preferably sifted - it sits down faster), so that the layer is at least 5 cm higher than the laying. If you bury a trench right away, then the sand will settle with the soil, but so that the sand does not settle, it will be rammed, although it is much easier to pour it abundantly with water and within 20 minutes it will be rammed randomly. After that, you can immediately fill the track with earth - after six months it will sit down completely, but if you immediately want to lay it there, then you cannot do without a rammer.
A revision is indispensable when cornering
Even if you make the turns smooth by combining them from several corner fittings, then in any case there is a threat of clogging. The reason may be any underwear accessory, sock, handkerchief and other small accessories and items, inadvertently drained with water into the toilet. Therefore, in such places it is best to install revisions - this is a regular tee, but with removable lid on one side, which, if necessary, can be removed and manipulated through an open hole with a plumbing cable. Of course, it would be very good if all revisions were placed in wells, which are easy to make from concrete rings as shown in the top photo.
Methods for inserting fan risers for ventilation: 1) through the roof of the house, 2) outside, parallel to the wall, 3) away from the building, 4) outlet from the septic tank
The installation of a sewage system in a private house in any case needs a ventilation device, which will get rid of an unpleasant odor in any place where any one is located. Of course, all siphons and the toilet, including, have water S-shaped closures, but the temperature difference between the septic tank and the room can play a cruel joke, especially in summer - warm air with miasma will enter the house during the discharge of water. These are elementary laws of physics, where warm streams tend upward, and cold streams downward and in heat, the air temperature in the container will in any case be higher than in the bathroom, kitchen or toilet. Therefore, it is better to allow air movement in a different way by installing ventilation risers, as shown in the image above, and usually only one of the above is enough. It is not very convenient to make ventilation through the roof or with an exit into the wall - this automatically implies additional work when installing pipes.
All septic tanks are mounted approximately according to the same scheme, but according to the principle of operation, they are classified into three categories:
In addition, you will have to calculate the volume of the tank, and this depends on the number of residents and bathrooms in the house, as well as the volume Wastewater for a certain period of time. To find out in more detail, you can look at the article "How to make a septic tank for a private house from concrete rings" on the same resource, and below you can watch a video on the topic of installation, which was shared by a youtub user.
Sewerage installation in a private house
In most cases, when installing a sewage system in the private sector, the question of insulation arises, but it is quite controversial, unless, of course, this happens in the regions of the Far North. The thing is that the drainage system always has a positive temperature and, at least, it is 2-3 ° C, and if it is drains from the shower (bath) or after washing dishes, then it is generally higher than 30 ° C. That is, the water moves all the time and simply does not have time to freeze, therefore, if the frosts in your area do not fall below 30 ° C, then pipes at a depth of 50-60 cm from the ground level can do without insulation at all. But this is only possible if the correct bias has been observed.
If there is no compacted sand cushion under the pipeline, then under the mass of the earth the plastic will deform and so-called stagnant zones will appear, where water will constantly be and, of course, being in the zone of freezing of the soil, it will turn into ice. A similar situation occurs when the slope was not observed in some area (the laying turned out to be horizontal) or worse, a counter-slope was formed, then freezing cannot be done. But the problem in this case is no longer in insulation or in its absence, but in the wrong sewerage system, where the optimal drainage is not provided.
Insulation of a PVC pipe with a foam shell
But if you live in a very cold region and do not want to make a deep trench, then insulation is still necessary and for this it is used in rolls, wrapping a pipe with it, and covering it with dense polyethylene or roofing material on top, tying it with wire. In addition, our industry produces the same cotton wool, polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam or expanded polyethylene in the form of a split shell, as shown in the top photo, but such material is certainly more expensive than rolled material.
Insulation of septic tanks: aboveground (left), underground (right)
But in the septic tank, the water settles, therefore, its temperature is compared with the temperature of the soil surrounding the chamber, and if it is negative, then, for obvious reasons, ice forms in the tank. But there are two ways of protection, which again depend on the climatic zone, so pay attention to the photos located above - insulation can be superficial (aboveground) or buried (underground). In both cases, the insulation was carried out with extruded polystyrene foam, with coating bituminous mastic(You can also use molten bitumen, which is known as tar). This, of course, is an expensive material and you may want to replace it with foam, but ...
The water absorption of extrusion per day is 0.2%, per month 0.4% of the total volume, and for foam 2% and 4%, respectively, it is 10 times more. Everything would be fine, but if after that frosts hit, then wet foam will simply crack from expansion with ice. So it's better not to save money here.
As you understand, the sewerage scheme in a private house, which you have to do with your own hands, depends on several factors. Here is the number of bathrooms, and the principle (type) of the septic tank, and the climatic features of the region, and, finally, your own wishes. But if you adhere to SanPiN 2.1.4.027-95, SNiP 2.04.01-85 and the recommendations given in this article, then you, no doubt, will succeed and you will not have to invite professional specialists.
When designing and installing an internal sewage system for a private house, no one is immune from mistakes that can lead to unpredictable consequences, from the appearance of an unpleasant odor to the complete inoperability of the system. Consider in this article the concept of internal sewerage in a private house: design and installation rules + analysis of common mistakes that arise in the process of all this.
Today, the construction of private suburban housing is experiencing a real boom. Therefore, it became necessary to create a convenient and modern system sewage system that an ordinary person who does not have a building education could mount. Such a system should have good performance, since the number of plumbing fixtures that produce household waste has increased significantly. Indeed, with the advent of automatic washing machines, dishwashers, jacuzzis and shower cabins, the water consumption of an ordinary household has increased to 200 liters per person per day.
The increase in the number of plumbing fixtures leads to a significant complication of the pipeline networks themselves. Fortunately, today PVC pipes are used for the installation of sewers, which are supplied with auxiliary fittings, with the help of which the installation of the pipeline becomes no more difficult than making crafts from a children's designer. All these parts are equipped with O-rings, which can be easily replaced if necessary.
Internal sewerage is a collection of plastic pipes and fittings for their connection, serving to drain wastewater from plumbing fixtures. The devices themselves are equipped with siphons necessary to prevent odor from entering the premises. Pipe-laying is subject to strict rules, failure to comply with which could result in disruption of the entire system.
The riser is used as the central outlet in the entire sewerage system of the house. He can be one for the whole house. If the house is too large or the bathrooms are located at a considerable distance from each other, then two or more risers are made. They are vertically installed pipes that start in the basement and end at the roof. The lower part of the riser is connected to an inclined pipe of the same or larger diameter, which goes outside into a reservoir for the accumulation of wastewater or into a wastewater treatment plant. The upper part of the riser rises above the roof by at least 0.5 m. It is open or equipped with a check valve. For what it is needed - we will consider further. All connections leading from plumbing devices are connected to risers.
The pipe is a cylinder with water moving inside. When the pipe is completely filled with water, a piston effect occurs. This means that the pressure drops sharply on top of the water plug, and on the contrary increases from below. In a situation where there is an explosive drain from the toilet cistern, the resulting vacuum is able to suck out all the water from the siphons. This is fraught with odors in rooms. On the contrary, in the course of fluid movement, overpressure, which is able to push sewage out of the devices below the toilet.
Ignoring the laws of hydrodynamics leads to two common mistakes in the design and installation of sewers. The first mistake is to refuse a ventilation device. The background pipe running from the riser to the roof not only diverts bad smell, but also serves as a pressure compensator in the system. Indeed, if it is present, the reduced pressure above the water piston will not suck the water out of the siphons, but will ensure the flow of air into the system from the atmosphere, which again equalizes the pressure.
The second common mistake is that all plumbing fixtures are connected through supply pipes to the riser below the toilet. This is unacceptable, as it will certainly cause sewage to be poured into the sink or shower stall when flushing. Similar problems arise when the supply pipes are longer than their permissible length. So that such troubles do not arise, it is necessary to formulate some important rules for the installation of an internal sewage system.
Attention! Violation of the following rules can lead to serious disruption of the work of the internal sewerage system or an emergency.
If an increase in the diameter of the supply pipes for some reason is impossible, then there is a way to get around this rule. To do this, it is necessary to bring the end of such a pipe to the roof and provide it with a vacuum valve or loop it onto a riser above all other devices.
I exist important nuances, the observance of which will ensure the operability of the sewage system in the optimal mode:
Another common mistake is incorrectly fitting corners. If you make the corners of 90 degrees, then as a result of the rebound, a blockage from waste will form in this place, and the pipe will quickly clog. For this reason, it is necessary to create a smooth flow of water at the corners. For this, fittings are used with an angle of inclination of 135 degrees.
The fourth mistake is the outlet of the fan pipe not to the roof, but to the general house ventilation. Such a device will create an unforgettable "aroma" throughout the house, which can only be eliminated by redoing the entire system.
In order not to hear the sounds of water moving through the pipes, it is necessary to arrange sound insulation. For this, the pipes are wrapped mineral wool and placed in boxes of plasterboard sheets. For timely and convenient maintenance, the pipes are equipped with inspection hatches every 15 m. The same applies to all turns.
Fifth mistake. A check valve is not installed in the pipe connecting the domestic sewage system and the septic tank. In this case, if the outdoor disposal units are overfilled, water may rise up the pipes and flood the basement.
The connection of any plumbing fixture to the sewerage system is carried out through siphons in the form of the letter U. Such a curved shape allows water to be constantly in it. It forms a water barrier and prevents odor from entering the room. However, this system stops working when some mistakes are made. The main mistake is the lack of ventilation. In this case, the vacuum simply sucks the water out of the siphon, allowing odors to flow freely through the house. Another reason for the appearance of an unpleasant odor is the banal evaporation of water from the siphon. This happens when the device is used infrequently. You just need to plug a rarely used device with a rag.
The work on the design of the internal sewage system must be carried out strictly in accordance with the above rules. In addition, to comply with them, certain calculations are required:
The above calculations, performed correctly, will make the sewage system the most efficient and efficient even in the event of overloads.
As mentioned above, the main thing in the sewage system inside the house is to draw up a detailed drawing of it, indicating all the devices and dimensions of the elements. For installation, sewer pipes made of polyvinyl chloride are used. The arrangement of their ends is such that two pipes can be connected by placing the end of one in the socket of the other. For risers, pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are used, and for other devices 50 mm. A corrugated pipe is used to connect to an external sewage system, due to its better resistance to ground movements.
Of the tools, they are usually used: a saw for cutting plastic pipes, a sharp knife and rubber mounting seals. With a saw, pipes are cut, with a knife they level the cuts and make chamfers. Rubber seals are inserted into the sockets. Various fittings are used to connect pipes into the system:
A common mistake when installing plastic sewer pipes is to ignore their heating. To make the pipes easier and denser to fit into each other and into the connecting fittings, the sockets must be heated in hot water.
Installation of the sewer system inside the house is carried out in the following order:
First, the risers are installed, bringing their ends to the roof and to the basement. They should be in the immediate vicinity of the toilet bowls. In the basement, they are connected to an inclined pipe that goes out into the septic tank, and the upper ends are left open or provided with check valves.
Secondly, the supply lines from the toilet bowls are brought to the riser. They must be separate.
Thirdly, they are connected to the risers of the connections from other devices above the inlets of the toilet bowls.
Fourthly, siphons are installed on all devices.
Fifthly, connect the siphons with eyeliners.
In conclusion, we say that a properly designed and assembled sewage system will work all the time it is supposed to do without serious problems.
Residents of ordinary city apartments, using the sewage system every day, rarely think about how it works. Questions only arise when something leaks or breaks. And even in this case, it is enough to call a master from the housing and communal services, who will check everything himself and fix the problem. The owners of private houses, however, have a harder time in this regard, because, from the stage of building their own house to the end of life, they have to understand the issues of this area, often independently installing the sewer system and repairing it in case of problems. For those who are poorly aware of this issue, but do not want to spend extra money on paying for the work of the masters, we offer this article, in which we will show a video on how to make a sewer with your own hands and tell you about the main features of its installation and operation.
To lay a sewage system in a private house with your own hands, it is important to design both external and internal networks. The second includes the following components: a drain pipe, a riser and wiring to those rooms that need water, that is, a bathroom and a bathroom, as well as a kitchen and, possibly, a utility room.
The external one consists of those elements of an integral system that are located outside. The organization of such a network assumes that the laying of pipes will move to the septic tank, that is, to the place of water filtration and the storage system. Of course, it is better if it is possible to use a centralized sewerage system, where all dirty water and waste will be collected. But even in the absence of such, it is possible to organize effective wastewater treatment in a private septic tank.
Any professional will tell you that the work on the sewage system in the country with your own hands should be done with the organization of its internal component. Even at the design stage of the dwelling, it is important to determine the location of the rooms that require water supply, next to each other. This will make the drainage process easier.
The diameter of the pipe that is suitable for draining water from the toilet is 10-11 centimeters. For those drains that leave the bathroom and kitchen - 5 centimeters, and the pipes themselves are better to use PVC. Those sections of the path where the pipe turns, you need to use elbows. To minimize the risk of blockages, the angle of these elbows should be about 22 degrees.
As for the material for pipes, polyvinyl chloride and polypropylene are more economical and reliable. They differ from cast iron in such characteristics as:
A very important stage in the installation of the sewage system in the house with your own hands is the design, which includes the marking of the places where the collector pipe will be installed. It is most convenient to work on a project on a checkered sheet or graph paper. Also, get a sharp pencil, tape measure, and ruler.
We offer you a sequence that will help you to quickly cope with this painstaking stage:
After drawing up a plan for the internal sewage system, you can proceed to the second stage - planning the external network, which is the pipes that go from the outlet to the septic tank. The plan must comply with all legal sanitary standards.
Considering that all the work on laying a sewage system in a private house with our own hands is divided into two parts, so the pipes must be selected in accordance with the type of work. For the internal network, pipes are made of PP or PVC. They are gray and from four to eleven centimeters in diameter (for risers and sun loungers, as well as for drainage, respectively). For the outer part of the system, it is necessary to use pipes from more durable materials and other colors. For example, to lay pipes underground in the area from the outlet to the filtration point, pipes of a flashy red color are used. The explanation is quite simple: this color stands out brightly on the ground. What about operational characteristics, the pipe for the street is tougher and stronger, because it needs to hold on to a heavy layer of soil.
There are pipes in production, both double-layer and corrugated - they are more durable. But the depth when arranging the sewage system is rarely more than three meters, so the ordinary owner simply does not need them.
The standard diameter of the red pipes is 11 centimeters. Usually this size is sufficient for the normal functioning of the sewerage system.
The most difficult process in working on the organization of the sewer system in a private house is the very laying of pipes and bringing them to the rooms. If you have concluded that you can refuse the services of a plumbing specialist and do this work yourself, then try to enlist the support of at least one more man. This will not only reduce time, but also improve the quality of work.
Modern market building materials offers a wide range of suitable for laying pipes, tees, elbows, revisions in materials such as PP and PVC.
To ensure high sealing of your pipes, it is advisable to coat their joints with a sealant, which, as a rule, is made on the basis of silicone.
You may also need sleeves that are inserted at the intersection of pipes with walls and ceilings.
An important parameter that must be taken into account in the process of working on laying pipes is their slope. In accordance with regulations you need to calculate the angle of inclination of the pipe in accordance with the diameter. For example, with a diameter of 5 centimeters, the angle should be 3 centimeters per linear meter, with a diameter of 10-11 centimeters - 2 centimeters per linear meter. Do not forget that you will have to place pipes at different heights in the horizontal plane.
If both parts of the sewer network in your room are at the same level, then it is advisable to start assembly from the junction.
To explain how this item works, we need a term such as release. This is the part of the sewer system that is located on the border of the house and is the junction of the pipe leading to the septic tank with the sewer outlet from the building.
The outlet should be laid just below the level where the soil is exposed to freezing, in the event that it is not possible to organize high-quality thermal insulation of the pipe. If done correctly, pipes will not freeze on cold days.
Anyone who possesses at least minimal skills in the field of construction and is passionate about saving money on the services of a specialist can lay an external sewage system. The main thing in the external network is the purification system, that is, the septic tank. Its design is one or more bowls that pass pipes through themselves. The subsequent options for organizing filtering may be different.
The volume of the septic tank should correspond to the number of people living in the house.
The construction of a septic tank occurs in the following sequence:
When deciding to do the sewerage in your home with your own hands, get ready for the fact that this will take a lot of time and your patience. It will be necessary to dig more than one cubic meter of earth and study more than one page of recommendatory literature. For clarity, we suggest you watch a video on how to make a sewer with your own hands.
Sewerage laying is an important stage in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewage system, then in order to equip a completely autonomous drainage system, you need to lay a network that delivers wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to the collection well. Installation of a sewage system for a private house is not a quick matter, however, if you do the work yourself, there should not be any serious difficulties. The help of specialists may be required only in the most difficult sections of the pipeline.
The drainage system of a private house consists of an internal and external sewerage system and a collection well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a fan pipe.
Water supply and sewerage systems are usually designed and installed at the same time, since the same plumbing and household equipment is connected to them.
The procedure for laying the sewer network:
Indoor sewage is collected in such a way that its lowest point is the place where the pipeline is taken out. In order not to be mistaken with the angle of inclination, you can start assembly from this point.
If there is a project, the order of connection is not important, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:
Living in a private house, I want to create in it for my family maximum comfort, ensuring a high standard of living, so it is very important to think in advance about such an important issue as sewage. Sewerage in a private house can be done by hand. This article will help you do all the work correctly, competently and without harm to the environment.
At independent construction sewer system in a private house, you can save a lot, but at the same time it is very important to carry out all the work correctly, in accordance with all the requirements that apply to construction and installation work of this kind.
The choice of the sewerage system scheme should be made in accordance with the layout of a particular house. When planning a house, it is recommended to provide for a compact arrangement of premises for which water supply and drainage will be carried out (showers, bathrooms, laundries, bathrooms and kitchens). But the most the best option there will be such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one pipe (collector) through which wastewater will be drained into a cesspool or septic tank.
Experts advise, if available big house, which provides several various premises with drainage and supply of waters located in different parts of the building, give preference to such a sewage system scheme, in which there will be at least two (and sometimes more) cesspools or septic tanks. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and bathrooms, toilets and kitchens are located on different floors, then in this case you will need to install risers.
Sewerage types
All work on the construction of sewerage in a private house with their own hands is reduced to the arrangement of external and internal sewerage. Internal sewerage works include the installation of a fan pipe, a riser and piping to rooms such as a shower room, kitchen, toilet, etc. from home to a deep cleaning station (quite expensive ready-made solution) or to a homemade septic tank (with a filtration field or accumulative). Of course, if you have the opportunity to connect to a centralized drainage system, then the task will be greatly simplified. But this article will consider exactly autonomous system including effective cleaning sewage in a septic tank, and such a primitive method as a cesspool.
Internal sewerage
First of all, you need to do exactly internal scheme... Even at the design stage of the house, it is necessary to think about the fact that all the rooms to which the sewage system will be supplied are located as close to each other as possible, since later this approach will significantly simplify the arrangement of the internal sewage system. Each house assumes an individual sewerage scheme, which can be very diverse.
In this case, one should take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used to drain wastewater in the toilet. For gray drains that will enter the sewer from the kitchen or bathroom, PP or PVC pipes with a diameter of 50 mm should be used. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will further minimize the possibility of blockage, which is quite problematic to eliminate. It is safer and cheaper to use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polypropylene (PP) pipes in the sewage system, since they are more durable, more reliable and cheaper than cast iron pipes. And besides that, mount internal system sewage with the help of such pipes is much easier.
First of all, it is necessary to decide where exactly the collector pipe or riser will be located, and only then from it to engage in further wiring.
But before that, you should more accurately figure out how you can independently develop a sewage system for your home, because in the future, according to this scheme, it will be possible to make a complete calculation of everything (plumbing equipment and materials) that you need to arrange the sewer system.
You can perform a sewage system on a piece of paper in a box, but it is advisable to purchase several graph paper sheets for this task. In addition, you will need a tape measure, a ruler, and a sharp pencil.
For a private house, the sewerage scheme is drawn up in the following sequences:
Sewer pipes
Since the conditions inside and outside the house are very different, the pipes for these two sewage schemes are different. Currently, PP and PVC pipes, which have a characteristic gray color, are most often used for laying pipes for internal sewerage. For sun loungers and risers, the diameter of such pipes is 110 mm, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. But do not forget that these pipes are intended only for internal sewage, and other solutions must be used for the external one.
Most often, the pipes that are laid underground from the deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet are painted orange, which can be explained very simply - a bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground than the rest. But pipes for external sewage systems differ from others not only in color - completely different requirements are imposed on them. Such pipes are more rigid, since they will have to withstand a significant load while underground. There are more robust structures, an example of which can be double-layer corrugated pipes. But the depth of laying pipes, when constructing a sewerage system for a private house, is usually small (most often up to 2 meters), so there is no need to use such pipes. Red pipes most often have a diameter of 110 mm, which should be more than enough to drain wastewater from the house.
Cast iron
Advantages: able to withstand heavy loads, durable and strong.
Disadvantages: expensive, heavy and brittle, the interior can become rough due to corrosion, this can cause clogging.
Polypropylene
Advantages: lightweight and flexible, making them the most demanded for indoor sewerage. Can withstand without problems high fever Wastewater.
Disadvantages: if used for its intended purpose, then there are no drawbacks.
Polyvinyl chloride
Advantages: similar to cast iron, inexpensive and lightweight. Most often they are used for outdoor sewerage.
Disadvantages: the high temperature of wastewater is poorly tolerated, fragile (do not bend, but crack).
Pipe laying
Probably the most time-consuming process in the construction of an autonomous sewage system in a private house with your own hands is the wiring and laying of pipes. If you decide to do these works yourself, then be sure to call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also the speed. It is also recommended to first check the tightness of the system by pouring clean water, and only then, after making sure that all the seams are reliable, you can start full-fledged operation.
Pipe connection
Earlier it was said that the most simple option will be used for sewerage PP or PVC pipes. Currently, there is a large number of offers of these products on the construction market, so it will not be difficult for you to find revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes, which are securely and easily connected at the docking points due to the presence of rubber cuffs. If desired, all joints can be additionally treated with a special plumbing sealant. And in those places where labor passes through a wall or ceiling, it is recommended to install a sleeve.
It is also necessary to remember about the slope of the pipes. In accordance with SNiP, in a free-flow system, the angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, it is necessary to create a slope of at least 3 cm per meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, at least 2 cm per meter. Do not forget about this, since you will need to locate different points of the pipeline at different heights to ensure the required slope.
Sewer outlet
In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the internal and external sewage systems, it is necessary to begin the installation of the sewage system in the house with a release. The outlet is the boundary part of the sewerage system that connects the pipe leading to the septic tank with the pipe that comes out of the house (riser).
The outlet must be installed through the foundation at a depth exceeding the soil freezing depth, which is appropriate for your region. You can install the outlet higher, but for this you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If this is not done, then there is a high probability that you will be able to use the toilet only in the spring, after warming.
If you did not take care of this during the construction of the foundation, then you will need to punch such a hole in the foundation into which the branch pipe with a sleeve can fit. A sleeve is a small piece of pipe, the diameter of which is larger than that of a sewer pipe (130-160 mm). Such a sleeve should protrude at least 15 cm on both sides of the foundation.
Summarizing the above, we can say that at this stage you need to make a hole in the foundation (if it is not there) and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Do not forget that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. And the sleeve is needed in order to set the required slope of the pipe towards the septic tank (2 cm per meter).
Piping and installation of a riser
It is best to place the riser in the toilet, as the recommended pipe size that goes from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how the pipes will be mounted - in special boxes, walls, channels and niches or next to walls (fastening with pendants, clamps, etc.).
In order to connect the sewer pipes to the riser, oblique tees should be used, and adapters should be used at the joints of pipes that are different in diameter. Where pipes from sinks, bathtubs and showers intersect, it is necessary to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. Also, do not forget about water traps, which will help protect your sense of smell from unpleasant odors.
It is imperative to mount a special tee (revision) on each riser with which it will be possible to clean the blockage, if necessary. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewage system in the future, it is necessary to mount the cleaning after each turn.
Fan pipe outlet
The conclusion and installation of the fan pipe is assigned a very important role, since a fan pipe is needed for:
The fan pipe is the extension of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that is brought out to the roof of the house. Before connecting the drain pipe and the riser, it is necessary to install a revision. After that, you need to bring the pipe at a convenient angle to the attic.
It is not recommended to simplify the work by combining the fan pipe (sewer ventilation) with the chimney or ventilation of the house. Moreover, it is necessary to locate the outlet of the fan pipe away from windows and balconies, at a distance of at least 4 meters. The height of the indentation from the roof should not be less than 70 cm. In addition, the ventilation of the sewage system, the chimney and ventilation of the house should be located at different levels.
Summing up the outcome all of the above, we can say the following:
Outdoor sewerage
You can equip a sewage system in a private house with your own hands different ways, which will be discussed below. It is very important to choose the right system that will suit all your needs.
It is necessary to choose a sewerage system arrangement scheme taking into account some parameters:
To obtain more detailed information, you should study all relevant sections of SNiP and SanPin.
All sewerage systems for a private house can be conditionally divided into two types:
Cesspool without a bottom
A cesspool is the oldest and most proven method of arranging a sewerage system for many centuries. This method had no alternative even 50-70 years ago. True, in those days people did not use as much water in a private house as they do now.
Basically, a cesspool is a well that does not have a bottom. In the cesspool, you can make walls of concrete, concrete rings, brick or other material, and leave the soil as the bottom. After the ingress of sewage from the house into the pit, relatively pure water will, while cleaning, seep into the soil, and solid organic waste and fecal matter will accumulate, settling to the bottom. When, over time, the well is completely filled with solid waste, it will need to be cleaned.
Previously, watertight walls were not made in the cesspool, so when it was filled, it was buried, and another was pulled out in another place.
It should be noted that to arrange a sewage system in a private house using cesspool is possible only when the volume of average daily waste does not exceed one cubic meter. Only in this case, soil microorganisms living in the soil and feeding on organic matter will be able to process the water, which will penetrate through the bottom of the pit into the soil. And in the event that the volume of wastewater exceeds this norm, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will lead to groundwater pollution. If this happens, then all water sources will be contaminated within a radius of 50 meters. If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, then due to this, the unpleasant odor that comes from it will slightly decrease, and the process of water purification will also speed up. But it's not worth the risk anyway.
Output. It is worth building a cesspool that does not have a bottom only when they do not live in the house permanently, but happen several times a week, without consuming a lot of water. Also, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the groundwater must lie at least one meter below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to avoid contamination of water and soil sources. The cesspool has the lowest cost, but even so, it is currently not popular in cottages and modern country houses.
Sealed container in the form of a storage tank
In this case, it is necessary to install an airtight container near the house, into which sewage will drain from the whole house through pipes. You can purchase a ready-made container in the store, which can be made of metal, plastic or other material. But if you wish, you can make such a container with your own hands from concrete rings. The lid can be made of metal and the bottom can be made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of a sewage system of this type is complete tightness. For this type of sewerage, you can use corrugated pipes pragma.
Such a container will definitely need to be cleaned when it is completely full, for which you will have to call a sewage machine, which will cost you from 15 to 30 cu. The required volume of the tank and the frequency of its emptying depends on the volume of waste water. For example, if four people live in the house on a permanent basis who use a washing machine, toilet, sink, shower and bath, then the storage tank must have a volume of at least 8 cubic meters, and it will need to be cleaned every 10-14 days.
Output. If on your site the groundwater is quite high, then as an option for arranging the sewage system at home, you can use a sealed cesspool. With its help, you can completely protect water sources and soil from possible contamination. But the disadvantage of such a system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. For the same reason, it is necessary to think in advance about the place where the pit will be located so that there is a convenient access to it. The bottom of the container or pit should not be deeper than three meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom. Lid storage capacity must be insulated so that the pipeline is protected from freezing. The cost of such a container will directly depend on its volume and the material from which it will be made. The use of used European cubes will be the cheapest option, and the most expensive - brick or concrete fill. Also, do not forget about the monthly costs for cleaning the container.
The easiest soil cleaning option is a single-chamber septic tank
A single-chamber septic tank is not particularly different from an ordinary cesspool, and sometimes it is called that. This structure is essentially a well, in which the bottom is covered with a small layer of rubble (at least 30 cm), and coarse sand is covered with the same layer on top of the rubble. In this case, sewage from the house goes through pipes into a well, where then water seeps through sand, gravel and soil, while being purified by 50%. Of course, crushed stone and sand significantly improve the quality of water purification, but this does not fundamentally solve the problem.
Output. It is not recommended to build a sewage system in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or with a large volume of wastewater. This option can only be used with a low water table and temporary residence. It will also periodically need to change crushed stone and sand, as they will silt.
Overflow settling wells - two-chamber septic tank
The construction of filter wells and overflow settling wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewage in a private house, moreover, this option is quite economical and can be installed independently.
This sewerage system consists of two wells: the first well has a sealed bottom, and the second has no bottom, but is sprinkled with gravel and sand.
From the house, sewage flows into the first well, in which feces and solid waste sink to the bottom, and oily waste float to the surface. Between these two layers, relatively clarified water is formed. The first well is connected to the second by about 2/3 of its height by an overflow pipe, which is located at a slight slope, allowing water to drain there without hindrance. A little clarified water enters the second well, which then seeps through the sand, gravel and soil, clearing up even more.
The first well serves as a settling tank, and the second one is a filtering well. From time to time, the first well is filled with feces and you will need to call a sewer truck to clean it. This should be done approximately every six months. In order to reduce the amount of unpleasant odors, it is necessary to add microorganisms that decompose feces to the first well.
The two-chamber septic tank described above can be made with your own hands from brick, concrete or concrete rings, or you can purchase a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, in which additional cleaning will be performed using special microorganisms.
Output. It is worth installing in a private house a sewerage system based on two overflow wells only when, even in a flood, the groundwater level is below one meter from the bottom of the second well. If your site has sandy loam or sandy soil, then this will be ideal. But remember that after about five years, the sand and rubble in the second well will need to be replaced.
Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field
This type of septic tank is made in the form of one container, which is divided into several separate containers connected by pipes, or into 2-3 sections. Usually, if you want to install this type of sewer system, a ready-made version is purchased.
The first tank of a septic tank is designed for settling wastewater, as it happens in a conventional settling well. Further, the partially clarified water goes through the pipe to the second section or container, where all available organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. After that, the more clarified water goes to the filtration fields.
The filtration field is a rather extensive (about 30 sq. M.) Underground area, where soil waste water is treated. In this case, the water is purified by about 80%, due to the large area. If the soil on your site is sandy loam or sandy, then this will be an ideal option, otherwise you will need to build an artificial filtration field from sand and gravel. After the water passes the filtration field, it is collected in pipelines and directed to wells or drainage ditches. It is not allowed to plant edible vegetables and trees over the filtration field, you can only break a flower bed.
Over time, the filtration field will become silted up and it will be necessary to clean it, or rather replace sand and crushed stone. This is a very large amount of work, and in this case your site may be damaged.
Output. The construction in a private house of a sewage system with a filtration field is recommended only when the groundwater is at a depth of at least 2.5-3 meters. You also need to remember that there must be a distance of at least 30 meters from the filtration field to residential buildings and water sources.
Natural cleaning station - septic tank with biofilter
With the help of a deep cleaning station, it is possible to carry out a full-fledged installation of the sewage system in a private house, even with a sufficiently high groundwater level.
This station is a tank, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, having previously checked with the professionals about the necessary equipment and volume. The cost of such a septic tank starts from $ 1200, which is not at all cheap.
The first chamber of this septic tank is designed to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third chamber, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed with the help of aerobic bacteria, which necessarily require a constant flow of air. To ensure this condition, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which should rise 50 cm above the ground. In the pipe that leads from the third chamber to the fourth, a filter is installed into which aerobic bacteria are introduced. In fact, this is a filtration field, but it is concentrated and more miniature. Due to the higher concentration of microorganisms and a small area of water movement, water purification is more thorough (up to 90-95%). Water purified in this way can be used for washing a car, watering a vegetable garden, and much more. From the fourth chamber comes a pipe, which is directed either into a drainage ditch or into a storage tank.
Output. For a private house where they live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is a great solution... Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is very simple - you just need to pour them into the toilet. Such a cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not require electricity to operate. The disadvantage is the fact that this station needs permanent residence, since bacteria deprived of wastewater will simply die. If you add new bacteria there, then they will start working only after two weeks.
Artificial cleaning station - septic tank with forced air supply
This is practically an accelerated cleaning station in which natural processes occur artificially. Arrangement of the sewerage system of a private house using an aeration tank is not possible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is necessary to connect the air distributor and the air pump.
This septic tank has three separate containers or chambers that are interconnected. Water over sewer pipe first enters the first chamber, in which it settles and solid waste precipitates. Further, partially clarified water is pumped into the second chamber, which is essentially an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of plants and microorganisms, is mixed with water. All bacteria of activated sludge and microorganisms are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is necessary for their life.
Then the water mixed with the sludge enters the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump, after which the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank by a special pump.
Thanks to the forced air supply, wastewater is purified quickly enough, and the purified water can be used for various technical needs (watering a garden, washing a car, etc.).
Output. The aeration tank, of course, is quite expensive (from $ 3700), but at the same time it is very useful. There are no restrictions when installing this type of sewage system. Among the disadvantages, only the need for electricity can be noted, as well as permanent residence so that bacteria do not die.
If your site has a high level of groundwater, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can opt for several options:
General rules for sewage in a private house
There are certain restrictions on the placement of objects of the sewerage system.
Septic tank location:
at least 10 meters from the garden;
at least 20-50 meters from any water sources (reservoir, well, well);
at least 5 meters from residential buildings.
Residential building location:
300 meters from stations and drainage wells;
50 meters from the aeration treatment plants;
25 meters from the filtering field;
8 meters from the filtering well.
Be sure to design a sewerage system for a private house and do not try to do everything without it, since the sewerage system is such a system in which there can be no approximation. It is best to contact architects or a design office, where professionals will help you create a competent project, taking into account the operating conditions, climate, site and soil. Better yet, if you do a sewage project together with a house project, even before construction begins.
The works themselves on the installation of a sewage system for a private house are not particularly difficult. You just need to properly dilute the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and bring them to the septic tank. For earthwork, you can hire an excavator, or you can do it yourself. The main thing is the preparation of the project and the competent selection of the sewerage system.
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