The construction of a drainage system diagram is a task that can be solved independently if the roof structure is simple: two- or four-slope, without complex geometry. Taking into account the fact that factory polymer and metal-plastic systems are produced in all sizes and are completed with a set of auxiliary parts, installation will take a minimum of time. Important questions to explore:
Complete set of factory drainage systems
The roofing part of the gutter consists of rain gutters installed on special brackets along the perimeter of the roof. From the horizontal roofing lines, a branch is carried out to vertically installed drainpipes. The transition is performed using knees and connecting pipes... The outlet is completed with a funnel.
Connecting the funnel to the downpipe
Main planning tasks:
Drawing up a diagram begins with marking the main lines for collecting rainwater and determining the points for installing gutters.
Ready-made schemes calculation of the drain for different types rooftops
After the formation of the primary scheme, the required diameter of the products is determined. To select the size, you need to know the total roof area. The area of all slopes is summed up. The diameter is selected separately for gutters and gutters.
If the obtained value is within 70 sq. m, then parts with a cross section from 75 to 90 mm are chosen. With a total area of up to 100 sq. m - products should be from 90 to 120 mm in diameter. For roofs over 100 sq. m, gutters with a diameter of up to 150 mm are used.
For roofs with a small area, drainage systems made of PVC - polymer material are chosen. Plastic products will last up to 25 years in favorable conditions... Advantages:
Plastic - optimal choice for the drain of the garage, baths, outbuildings, low buildings.
Plastic and metal-polymer systems are produced in a wide range of shades
For the organization of drainage systems of cottages, houses with a large roof area or a roof of complex shapes, it is preferable to use metal-polymer structures. The material is multilayer: several protective polymer layers are applied to the metal base to protect it from moisture. Products are not subject to thermal deformation; installation with an increased pitch between fasteners is allowed.
Installation of the system is rather laborious due to the complexity of cutting, material processing and the large weight of the structures.
System parts: pipes, trays and couplings
Calculation of molded parts - gutters and downspouts:
Planning of assembly of solid parts and joining of segments
Installation of gutters in straight sections
Auxiliary elements - brackets, couplings, with the help of which the gutters and pipes are connected.
The brackets are mounted every 40 - 90 cm: plastic systems require a step of 40 - 60 cm, for metal-plastic lines, the distance between the fasteners is increased to 60 - 90 cm. The number of couplings for straight segments is calculated by the number of joint points of the sections. Corner connectors: internal - by the number of internal bends, external - by the number of external corners. The number of funnels is equal to the number of gutters.
Gutter connectors and accessories
After purchasing the parts, they proceed to the installation. The first stage is preparation. To connect and secure the gutters, you will need the following tools:
Double slope on a long stretch
The first stage of installation is the installation of the mountings. Under the installation of the gutter, brackets are attached to the rafters or frontal board. The optimum distance between adjacent hooks is up to 60 cm. The extreme elements should be 10-15 cm from the edge of the roof slope. When marking the installation line, they must form a slope of up to 2 - 3 mm per meter.
There are three ways to securely connect the gutter gutters:
Glue-retained connector
Choose the method of gutter connection recommended by the manufacturer. When designing system fittings, engineers take material characteristics into account. The factory kits contain all the connecting and auxiliary materials for assembling a home system. If the manufacturer recommends an adhesive fixing method, be sure to choose a sealant that is suitable for the specific material. To connect the gutters at an angle at the edges of the roof, use corner adapters with seals.
Parts for adhesive and sealing joints of horizontal sections differ in length: sealing connectors are long, locks for adhesive joints are short. The size of the connectors is selected according to the diameter of the trays, the number is calculated according to the planned connection points. It is enough to buy 2 - 3 parts in reserve.
Coupling with locks for glueless connection
Glueless products cannot be re-installed: if a mistake was made during the initial installation, the connector will have to be replaced.
Before connecting the gutters, it is worth checking at what distance the edge of the connector will be from the fastening hooks: the minimum indent from each edge is 2 cm. Inspect the seal: the rubber should be of a uniform color, dense and elastic. If possible, choose couplings with gaskets made of modified rubber - the material is more durable.
Distance from fasteners to the edge of the coupling
When connected to the seal, a gap is left between the edges of the groove in the coupling - for free play when the plastic expands under the influence of temperature. The minimum distance is 5 - 6 cm.
The gutter is cut to the required length. Before fixing in the coupling, the trimmed edges must be processed: you need to sand the cut to a smooth, even state. If jags remain on the plastic, the edge can damage the seal as the gutter is widened.
Some connectors are marked inside with a scale indicating the temperature. The edge of the tray is installed in the sleeve at the mark corresponding to the air temperature on the day of installation.
Docking of rectangular parts
The rear edge of the gutter is inserted into the groove of the coupling, the tray is tilted and fixed in the connector, leading the flange under the groove, or clamping the factory mechanical lock. The second joint element is also fixed. The installation of joints without the use of sealant can be carried out during the installation of the gutters on the brackets.
Advantages of glueless bonding:
When choosing an adhesive connection method, it must be remembered that the sealant does not have sufficient elasticity. If the part (plastic) is fixed immovably, then with a strong expansion there will be a risk of deformation or breakage of the connection. For this reason, rigid adhesive fixation is performed only in systems that have higher temperature stability: metal-polymer or metal.
Applying sealant to the connector seal
Cutting is performed with special scissors or a hacksaw; you cannot cut the pipe with a grinder. Temperature may cause the top layer of plastic to melt and flake off from the steel.
You cannot cut metal with a polymer coating with a grinder
A sealant is applied to the rubber seal. Two lines - along the edges, indented from the edge of the sleeve by a few millimeters, the third - exactly in the center of the connector. Connect the gutter gutter with the sleeve and press. A minimum clearance of 2 mm is left in the center. The glue protruding on the inner surface is removed.
Installation of a short connection
If the connection is made on the ground, then the installation of the structure on the hooks is carried out only after the sealant has set.
Adhesive fixation of parts: diagram
The advantage of the adhesive connection is absolute tightness: a dense rubber gasket with additional adhesive fixation. The disadvantage is fragility.
How to connect gutters at an angle when you need to bypass a ledge, or form a gutter on a complex roof? Corner connectors are selected with different angles and directions:
Outside corner turn with short edges
Installation is carried out in the same way as when connecting parts on straight sections. In the corners, the indent from the wall of the house is additionally calculated.
External Corner Mounting with Optional Bracket
If the swivel connector has long edges, additional brackets must be installed to secure the part in the correct position. Installation of short corners is carried out without hooks.
Instead of glue - sealed gaskets
The difficulty of joining lines in a turn is that the connection has to be done at a height. To avoid mistakes, the edges of the gutters should be cut and finished beforehand. It is easier to connect corners with gutters using a glueless method. If a part with short edges is used, the junction of the groove with the corner is sealed with glue.
2 types of factory funnels for draining water from a gutter into a downpipe:
Funnel for connection with gutters
Metal part with retainer
Installation of products of type 1 is simple. At the point of the planned outlet, 2 straight segments are connected with a funnel. Type 2 connection requires preparation.
At the junction point of the gutter with the funnel, it is necessary to cut a hole for the drain. When cutting, you should study the instructions: the hole can be provided in the form of a cone or a circle.
Tapered funnel hole
Some manufacturers offer ready-made gutters with funnel markings. The edges of the cut-out hole are cleaned. Put on a funnel and fix the part with locks to the gutter.
From the bottom edge of the funnel, a transition is made to the vertical section of the drain. Under standard conditions, 2 knees with an angle of 40 ° are sufficient. The elbow with a turn inward from the roof to the wall is connected to the funnel. A second turn is taken from the pipe. Measure the distance between the edges of the parts. Cut off a piece of pipe. Connect to the knees.
Branch from gutter to pipe: connection
Connect the vertical drain with special couplings with seals. When docking, leave a free play of several millimeters. The upper part of the pipe is inserted into the wide edge of the coupling until it stops against the seal, then it is pulled out in the opposite direction.
Along the lower edge of the drain, a bend in the form of a knee is also installed to drain the water into the storm water inlet.
Even the installation of an easy-to-install plastic gutter can take time. Complex metal systems it is better not to assemble with your own hands. In addition, you will have to work at a height, constantly supporting heavy chutes, saving on professional installation highly questionable.
A drainage system is necessary to remove sediment from pitched roofs... If all the rules of installation and operation are followed, its service life is from 5 to 12 years. It often happens that recently installed system damaged and not only looks ugly, but also does not fulfill its main function. This is due to violations of the installation and installation technologies. This article will help you understand the basic rules for installing a plastic gutter system, ensuring the reliable operation of the gutter for the entire warranty period and even longer.
All manufacturers of drainage systems must include installation instructions, which indicate all the features and nuances. Therefore, when buying, be sure to ask the seller for instructions. But all systems have general rules installation that cannot be neglected.
The main function of the drainage system falls on pipes and gutters. In order to attach them to the roof or connect them together, various accessories are used. These include: brackets, plugs, elbows, funnels, and more. Therefore, the procedure for installing a plastic drainage system consists in attaching accessories and basic elements in a clear sequence.
See also: How.
Installation of a drainage system made of plastic
Stage 1. Installation of water inlet funnels
It is necessary to determine the number and location of drainpipes. After that, in those places where the gutters will be located, it is necessary to install water intake funnels. Installation begins with funnels in systems in which the inlet funnels also function as a gutter connector. In this case, there are devices at the ends of the funnel that tightly connect it to the gutter. For glue systems, this can be the place where the glue is applied or rubber seals for other types of plastic gutters. The funnels are independently attached to the roof structure using brackets. Therefore, it is with them that the installation of the drainage system begins.
Such funnels are attached with brackets to the roof structure. Therefore, editing begins with them. If you have purchased a drainage system with funnels that need to be attached directly to the gutter and not to the roof structure, then the inlet funnels are installed after the gutters have been installed.
Before installing the gutter, a hole must be cut out at the place where the water intake funnel is attached. To do this, you need to apply a contour, cut a hole with a fine-toothed hacksaw and clean the edges. The funnel can then be attached to the gutter.
Step 2. Mounting brackets
It is necessary to fix the brackets (gutter holders) at the distance recommended in the installation instructions. Usually, plastic gutters require a distance of 50-60 cm. It is necessary to fix the brackets in such a way that the slope of the gutters towards the funnel is about 2-3 mm. For this, the extreme holder of the gutter is installed at the highest point, a cord is pulled between it and the funnel, and, focusing on it, the remaining brackets are attached.
The holders must be attached to the wind (frontal) board. Make sure it is level before installation. An unevenly installed frontal board can adversely affect plastic gutters and their performance. If at the time when you will install the plastic drainage system, it has not yet been laid roof covering, then the bracket mounts can be mounted on the rafter leg.
Usually, plastic gutter holders are used for mounting on a windboard, and metal holders for mounting to rafters. On average, one holder can carry up to 75 kg. Often this figure is misleading for many, and they take, in their opinion, the right decision in terms of economy - to install a smaller number of holders. This is one of the main mistakes when installing a drainage system. Because what matters is not the weight that the bracket can support, but the gutter support area.
If this factor is not taken into account, the consequences will be very deplorable: the gutters are twisted, then sag, and after a while they simply break off. Therefore, such "savings" will result in partial or even complete replacement of holders and gutters.
Stage 3. Installation of the gutter
Now you need to put the gutters into the holders, starting from the funnel. Insert the edge of the gutter firmly into the latch located on the edge of the gutter holder, then press down slightly until the structure snaps into place. Tightly connect the gutters to each other using solders, special adhesives or connecting elements (depending on the type of system chosen). And do not forget that in glued systems, after complete assembly it will no longer be possible to dismantle or re-install.
In order to cut the gutters of the plastic drainage system, you must use a grinder or a hacksaw. Then clean the burrs with a file.
When installing the gutter, its edge must be located below the roof extension line. This will avoid the "overflow" of water in a rainstorm. Also, the minimum amount of snow sliding from the roof will fall there.
Stage 4. Installation of a drip
The dropper is being installed. It provides a free outlet of water from the under-roof space and directs it into the gutters. The dropper is mounted to the rafter leg, going into the gutter by 1.5-2 cm.
Step 5. Installing the side plugs
Now you need to fix the corners to the gutters in those places where you need to go around the protruding parts of the facade or the corner of the house. After that, side plugs are attached to the ends of the gutter.
Stage 6. Installation of plastic gutters
We begin to install plastic gutters. This is done from the funnel, that is, from top to bottom. The pipes must be attached to the wall so that the distance between them is from 3 to 8 cm.
Stage 7. Assembling the drainage system
Using couplings, it is necessary to assemble the pipes into one piece and fasten them with clamps to the wall every 1-2 m (see the supplier's recommendations in the instructions).
Step 8. Installation of tees
If necessary, tees (pipe splitters) are installed at this stage.
Step 9. Installation of the drain
Installation of a drain pipe outlet (drain). Leave at least 30 cm between the ground and the drain.If you plan to install a linear drainage system, then leave 15 cm.
The gutters are installed using the following tools:
- Roulette.
- Ruler.
- Pencil.
- Hammer.
- Cord.
- Hacksaw.
- Screwdriver.
Installation of the drainage system and temperature conditions
It is forbidden to install plastic gutters at temperatures below 5 ° C. Otherwise, the pipes may crack from mechanical stress when cutting or fastening. Many plastic gutters cannot be stored in the open sun in their packaging.
Contamination of gutters
When debris or leaves enter the gutter, the movement of water along the gutter is limited. Because of this, the system overflows, and in the future the walls of the building become wet, and over time, the foundation may also be washed away. To prevent such undesirable consequences, it is enough just to install a grate-leaf catcher. And plastic gutters are protected from clogging by installing a collection of garbage and leaves directly into the water intake funnel.
Icing
This phenomenon is fraught with deformation and collapse of the entire system. To prevent it, a cable anti-icing system is installed. First, it is necessary to calculate the power of the heating cable and the required number of its lines. The cable can be with a regulator or self-regulating.
Overflow
Overflow occurs when the size of the pipes and gutters is not able to handle the amount of precipitation that is likely to occur in a particular area. To prevent overfilling, when choosing a system, follow the recommendations of the manufacturer directly from which you will purchase it.
Now you know all the basic nuances of installing a plastic drainage system. Follow the instructions carefully and you will undoubtedly be able to install plastic gutters in your home yourself.
Operation of buildings and structures without an effective eastern system installed leads to critical damage to very important architectural elements... First of all suffer basements, then the foundation and basement of the building begins to collapse. The bearing capacity of these structures is significantly reduced, as a result of which cracks appear on the facade walls.
But this is not all the problems caused by high humidity soils around the house. With a significant increase in the amount of water during freezing, the swelling of soils far exceeds the calculated maximum values. If the foundation has a large margin of safety, and the building is constructed of lightweight materials, then there may be only minor problems with opening / closing windows and doors. But if the walls are made of masonry bricks, and the foundation does not have such significant reserves of strength, then cracking of the walls is inevitable. The consequence is destruction load-bearing structures and elements, inevitable, very complex and expensive repairs.
The destruction of the facade of the house in the absence of a drain is a matter of time
Important. During the design of houses, no one lays in the strength of the foundation the influence of the above factors due to the lack of a drainage system. Such a huge reserve of carrying capacities greatly increases the estimated cost of construction. It always means that there is a blind area around the house, and all the water from the roof is diverted far beyond the foundation or into special engineering sewer networks... Today, for these purposes, companies produce very effective, durable and reliable drainage systems.
Gutters
The entire huge number of structural models is divided into two large groups depending on what material they are made of.
| System type | Brief description of physical and technological characteristics |
|---|---|
| Such systems can be made from very expensive copper and other non-ferrous alloys or relatively cheap galvanized sheet steel. In all respects, they occupy a leading position and are far ahead of plastic products. The only drawback is the high cost. Because of this, metal drainage systems can only be seen on prestigious houses, they can be installed on religious buildings, used for the reconstruction of historic buildings. |
| Cheaper design, has a lot of original design and engineering solutions. Individual elements can be assembled using special locks or glued, each method has its own pros and cons. Advantages - quick assembly and relatively low cost. The disadvantage is low mechanical strength. |
We will focus on plastic systems in more detail. These gutters are used much more often than metal ones, they have a pleasant appearance, subject to the recommendations of the manufacturers, they can be used for at least ten years.
But such operational properties can be expected only on one condition - made by a well-known and respectful company for its customers. How not to be mistaken with the choice of what to pay attention to?
This is an extremely important issue that has a great impact not only on the durability of operation, but also on the installation technology. Before buying a system, you should follow these steps.
Conclusion. The better the system, the easier it is to install and the longer it will last.
For example, we will consider the installation technology of one type of system from a well-known manufacturer. The name and brand do not matter, different types almost do not differ in the editing algorithm. For the production of work, you will need a hacksaw for metal, self-tapping screws of various lengths and diameters, a screwdriver, measuring tools, a bubble level, a chopping rope, a felt-tip pen, a silicone spray.
Important. Some manufacturers allow the installation of their systems at subzero temperatures. Experienced builders categorically do not recommend listening to such advice, all plastic structures should be installed only at temperatures above + 5 ° C.
Step 1. Check the completeness of the system. The kit should include the following items.
Step 2. Mark out the placement of the drainage system on the house.
Funnel position marking
During the markup, several prerequisites must be met:
Step 3. Attach the first outer bracket to the eaves board. The holes in the bracket are elliptical to allow precise positioning of the element. Align it horizontally, the gutter should touch it with the entire surface, this contact reduces concentrated loads. And plastic products are very afraid of them.
Screwdrivers
Step 4. Secure the outer roof slope bracket. During fixing, it is always necessary to maintain the slope of the gutter, otherwise water will stagnate in it, vegetation will grow over time, leaks appear, etc. The slope should be ≈ 3mm per meter. If the length of the slope is 10 m, then the difference in height between the first and the last bracket is about 3 cm. Long slopes must be divided into sections and several water intakes must be installed. If this is not observed, then it will not be possible to withstand the projections of the slope and the upper edge of the gutter recommended above. Because of this, a large amount of rain and melt water will spill past the drainage system.
Step 5. Pull a rope between the installed brackets, it indicates the correct position of all the others.
After that, you can start assembling the elements of the gutter, this is a very important task, work carefully. You must always remember that after the start of the operation of the house, it is much more difficult to fix problems with the drainage system than to follow the recommendations for correct installation.
Important. To increase the tightness of the joints of the plastic drainage system, it is recommended to additionally seal them with a special silicone spray. It serves two purposes.
Step 1. Tilt the gutter upside down. Use a metal hacksaw to cut the groove lengthwise.
Step 2. Install the gutter in the prepared brackets and inlet funnel. Secure with special latches.
Important. Please note that the funnel is attached to the bottom of the entire gutter and is not used as a stand-alone support element. Such engineering solutions increases the reliability and durability of the structure.
Step 3. If the length of the gutter is not sufficient, then it is necessary to use special connecting elements for the extension. In this case, a gap is always left for leveling the linear thermal expansion of the weir system. The connecting elements have dashes, with their help, the correct initial gap between the ends of the gutters is selected, taking into account the air temperature at which the installation is made.
Step 5. Make a turn of the gutter in the corner of the building. Select an element depending on its value. Always use a special silicone spray, responsible manufacturers sell it as a complete system.
Step 6. Install the plugs along the ends.
Now we need to fix the vertical pipes.
Important. Never fix downpipes close to walls, always leave a gap of at least five centimeters. Otherwise, the surface of the wall will be constantly damp, fungus may appear on it.
Step 1. Install the elbow into the funnel funnel, turn it in the desired direction and fix the position with a special self-tapping screw. If the distance from the end of the elbow to the wall is too large, then you will have to additionally insert a piece of pipe. It is cut off with an ordinary hacksaw for metal or a grinder from standard pipe... Burrs need to be removed.
Step 2. Put on the second elbow, with its help, the vertical direction of the pipe is given. Attach the first bracket to the wall. The fastening can be dowels or self-tapping screws, choose the option depending on the characteristics of the facade walls. The first bracket should be no further than 15 cm from the knee.
Step 3. Stretch the thread and mark the locations of the remaining brackets along it. The latter is located near the drain to the ground, and the rest are symmetrical with a maximum step of 1.8 m.
Step 4. Fasten all brackets in the drilled holes, assemble the pipe and secure it.
Aluminum ladder
The first option is simple, cheap and more or less acceptable. The second option is long, expensive, but very effective.
What to choose - each developer decides individually. But it is much better to do this even at the design stage of the house, especially if there is a desire to connect the drainage system to underground utilities.
Quite often, when choosing a drainage system, the question arises of which one to install - plastic or metal. Very often, one of the reasons for not using plastic gutters is that they burst in winter.
Let's see if this is really the case and why it happens.
We note right away: indeed, sometimes plastic gutters burst, but this does not mean at all that they are of poor quality or worse than metal ones.
Any material shrinks or expands when the temperature changes. For example, frozen water turns into ice and expands. The same thing happens with gutters, only without changing the state of aggregation - they change size. The coefficient of linear expansion of plastic is much higher than that of steel, that is, a plastic drain changes its size depending on the ambient temperature difference more than a steel one. Linear expansion coefficient - important parameter, which must be taken into account when installing and operating the drain.
Different manufacturers of plastic systems have different installation technology: some use an adhesive connection, others use a connection with rubber seals. In the first case, all elements are rigidly fixed to each other with glue, which does not allow the system to "walk". When installing such a drainage system, it is imperative to install special elements that will compensate for these expansions. In the second case, the role of expansion elements is played by connecting elements with rubber seals, which exclude leaks at the connection points and at the same time maintain the mobility of the system.
To increase the service life of rubber seals, manufacturers recommend using silicone, it prevents premature aging of the rubber seals and provides free sliding of the elements during expansion. It is important to clarify that you need to use silicone paste, it acts as a lubricant for rubber bands, and not a silicone sealant, which hardens after some time.
Let's deal with a real situation: we install a gutter on the eaves of a house 10 m long in summer at a temperature of 20 ° C. Linear expansion coefficient of plastic (polyvinyl chloride) 70 * 10 -6 ° С -1. In winter, the temperature drops to -20 ° С, i.e. the temperature difference was 40 ° С. With such a change in temperature, the change in the length of a 10-meter plastic gutter will be (10 m * 40 ° C * 70 * 10 -6 ° C -1) 28 mm!
Under the same conditions, the change in the length of the metal trough will be only 4.8 mm (the coefficient of linear expansion of steel is 12 * 10 -6 ° С -1).
This is theory, but what about practice? In practice, when the plastic gutter has nowhere to expand or contract, it does it anyway, as a result of which the most loaded elements, for example, the corners of the gutters, burst.
During operation, it is imperative to maintain drainage systems: remove foliage accumulated in pipes and gutters. If this is not done, foliage and any other debris impede the movement of rainwater, which accumulates in the elements of the drainage system, and when freezing, all this turns into ice, which, as already said, expands in volume, which is why deformation occurs, and elements burst.
Expansions also occur in steel gutters, but due to the fact that they are not so significant, and steel is stronger than plastic, the gutter elements do not burst.
So, we figured out two main reasons why in winter period plastic gutters burst:
1. The inability of the drain to expand linearly with temperature changes;
2. "Garbage" in the system, which prevents the drainage of water from the drain.
To avoid such problems, in the first case, it is enough to follow the installation instructions of a particular manufacturer: use expansion elements; use adhesives and sealants only for those elements for which such a need is indicated. In the second case, it is imperative to audit and maintain drains 2 times a year - in spring and autumn before the onset of frost.
We hope that our article will help you choose a drainage system and avoid problems with its operation in the future.
The greatest harm to the walls and foundations of houses is caused by uncontrolled flows of moisture flowing down from the roofs. Soft rainwater is able to wash the most stubborn Decoration Materials... For external thermal insulation made of mineral wool or basalt felt, even a small stream of water can be a sentence. It is not difficult to prevent such problems if effective drainage systems and drainage systems are installed at the places of water drainage. Effective - this means that in any weather and the most extreme rains and winds, the margin of safety and productivity of the drainage system and drainage system is enough for the normal flow of water from the roof without boiling waterfalls.
Before you start developing and installing your own plastic drainage scheme, you should think twice and not reinvent the wheel, but buy a ready-made kit plastic pipes and gutters for gutters and from them to assemble the desired structure.
The system of plastic drainage and drainage of moisture from the roofs must meet several specific requirements:
Important! The most common "ailment" of cheap plastic fake gutter options is the appearance of a huge number of cracks from exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
The problem of fakes from well-known manufacturers very often confuses not only ordinary buyers, but even experts. Often, a well-known company sells the right to manufacture its products to Chinese or Vietnamese factories of plastic fittings, with the condition that the products are sold only in the CIS countries. As a result, in Russia you can buy under one brand both a high-quality drainage system and a fake from crumbling plastic recyclable materials.
Choosing the most effective system largely depends on financial capabilities and time. Most often, there is not enough money or time to make the right decision, so you have to choose:
The practice of working with the products of the companies listed in the last list shows that while any of them are at the stage of conquering the market, the quality of plastic roof drainage systems is maintained at the proper level, so you should not be afraid to take risks and buy high-quality plastic products at an affordable price.
The Alta-Profil product list contains everything you need to assemble and install a roof drainage system. The company positions itself as a manufacturer of both individual components for gutters and the proprietary roof drainage system "Alta-profile".
If desired, the specialists of the Alta-Profil company can help to install gutters, subject to the purchase of systems for their development. The work of Alta-Profile installers is estimated at about three hundred rubles per meter of installed drain. That is, the price of the service of the Alta-Profile specialist to install the gutter will be equal to the cost of a meter of plastic gutter of the same company. For those who wish, on the site there is a special calculator from the company Alta-Profil, which allows you to calculate the needs for material, estimate how much it costs to install a specific version of a plastic drain, and leave your feedback on the quality of the plastic drain.
It may be cheaper to just buy the necessary set of gutters from plastic gutters, pipes and elbows, and install the gutter on your own:
For your information! According to the company, most plastic gutters are not circular section, and a special profile in the form of a half-ellipse. This increases the rigidity of the structure, and reduces the likelihood of overflow of water flow over the edges.
Alta-Profil experts guarantee the resistance of plastic fittings to frost and ultraviolet light. Polyvinyl chloride, in addition to its high resistance, has good resistance to erosive wear from sand and dust. That is, scratches and scuffs on the surface will appear, but it will be difficult to visually examine them, due to the staining of the plastic wall of the reinforcement to the entire depth of the material.
For situations where the roof structure of a house does not allow installing a sufficient number of fasteners and supports for gutters on the roof or rafter base, the company proposes to use reinforced gutters with special profiled walls and reinforced sides. Thanks to this, the plastic gutter will not bend and lose the angle of water drainage.
Alta-Profil offers several options for colors and designs of gutters and pipes. For conventional gutters, a 11.5 cm wide gutter and a 7.4 cm diameter pipe are offered. For roofs with a large roof area, you can order a structure with a 20% increased capacity.
Almost all drainage systems sold under brand names are designed for a simplified way of installing components. That is, it is possible to install gutters and pipes without using special machines for welding plastic. An exception is the support and bracket system. Before mounting, you need to establish their exact location on the roof or on the walls, observing a few simple conditions:
At the first stage, the place for the suspension of the gutters and the line of inclination to the horizon are marked. The farthest point of the gutter system should be at the highest point in the catchment area. At this point, it will be necessary to install a plug on one side of the gutter. The other side is directed towards the water collection point. From fastening with building level and a long ruler mark the point where the next bracket is supposed to be installed. In this case, the attachment point of the next bracket must be set lower on a certain amount of millimeters to comply with the angle of inclination.
After fixing all the brackets with dowels or self-tapping screws, you need to install plastic gutters and pipes. In the corporate design, they are assembled on rubber seals, snapping into the clamps of the funnel and pipes, as in children's designer... In cheap versions of the gutter, pipes and gutters can only be installed using a sealant or branded glue.
The rigidity of the gutters must be checked. To do this, it is enough to install a load with a weight of 250-400 g in each span between the attachment points. This is the average load per meter of gutter when it rains. After a couple of hours, it is necessary to set the level and check the degree of change in the position of the pipes and gutters relative to the initial fastening. With high-quality fasteners, there should be no changes in the angle of inclination of the current.
