Building facades with siding can be done by the homeowner himself if he is guided by the appropriate instructions explaining how to properly attach the siding.
Calculation of siding at home - a good example To make it easier to conduct, it is necessary to mentally divide the surface of the house into the simplest elements: triangles and rectangles. Now we do the following:
Fittings
Start and finish planks equal to the perimeter of the building plus 10% trim and fit. The rest of the fittings are calculated according to the detailed plan of the house. This calculation can be entrusted to specialists performing facade cladding work.
Facade cladding with siding attracts homeowners with its ease of installation and high speed performance of work. But these statements are true only if the work is properly organized: all the material is purchased, the tools are prepared.
But that's not all: how to fix basement siding at a height? It is definitely inconvenient to mount siding from the stairs (if not impossible). This means that scaffolding will have to be included in the preparatory work. They can be built from wooden beams with a section of 150x59 mm. For less critical parts, a beam of 100x50 mm will go. The flooring is made from planks. Its thickness is from 25 to 40 mm.
You also need to organize a place for cutting blanks. The most convenient way to cut siding is on a table.
To perform work with siding, you will need:
Now let's look at what screws to fix the siding with.
Stock up on roofing steel nails to secure the siding. They can be replaced with aluminum ones with a 9.5 mm diameter head. The diameter of the nail rod should be at least 3 mm, and its length should be equal to the thickness of the entire sheathing pie plus at least 20 mm for entering the base (load-bearing wall).
Find out more about decorating the facade of your home. The basement - or the face of your home - requires special attention. Study in more detail and the result will meet your expectations. Still looking for siding for your facade? - Types of siding for house cladding are presented in detail. Here you will definitely find perfect solution for your home.
For the lathing device, a wooden rail with a section of 40x60 mm is suitable. They are pre-soaked with an antiseptic. The rail can be replaced with a galvanized profile. The lathing step is from 30 to 40 cm. If the house is located in a zone of strong winds, the step is reduced to 20 cm.
Around the openings of windows and doors, in places where lamps are installed and other elements are suspended, at all corners of the building, an additional crate is arranged at the top and bottom of the sheathing. The rail is positioned vertically, horizontal spacers are not placed - they will lead to a clear deterioration in the ventilation of the subsiding space.
Traditionally, insulation is laid under the siding. In this case, the thickness of the lathing slats should exceed the thickness of the insulation by 15 - 20 mm. Due to this difference, a guaranteed gap between the siding and the thermal insulation layer will be provided. After installing the insulation along the crate, the waterproofing layer is strengthened, and only after that the installation of the siding is started.
Use chalk to mark the bottom level of the siding installation. It should be 75 - 80 mm from the level of the blind area. Now place the starter profile on the chalk markings with the top edge and nail it in. A gap of 6 mm must be maintained between the sections of the profile and the corner (internal or external) to compensate for the expansion of the siding.
The general concept of "fittings" is a group of various elements designed for the convenience of attaching the siding to the wall. This group includes near-window strips, soffits, moldings, external and internal corners, etc. All of them are fixed in a certain way, as specified in the manufacturer's instructions.
Installation of external corners
External corners are mounted on the corners of the house. The lower edge of the first element is set 6 mm below the starting strip. A gap of 6 mm is also left between the cornice and the upper edge of the last corner. If you plan to hem cornice overhang soffit, increase this gap by its thickness.
Installation of J-planks around openings (door and window)
Photo of fastening the J-bar around the window For joining the wall cladding with door and window openings, a J-bar is installed around them. To do this, in the bottom of the strip, located horizontally above the opening, cut out an eyelet and lower it down. Then the folded front part of the plank is trimmed at an angle of 45 degrees. A rectangular cutout is cut out in the bottom of the vertical slats (its depth is 20 mm). After that, all the elements of the frame are connected at the joints.
Visual instruction: how to fix the siding correctly Installation of siding panels is carried out from the bottom up. You need to start working from the rear facade of the house towards the main one, then the overlaps will not spoil the front view.
The joints must move relative to each other. The minimum distance between joints is 100 cm in the horizontal direction and at least two rows in the vertical direction. The overlap of the horizontal panels is 225 mm. Too much overlap of the panels restricts mobility and leads to deterioration.
[сaution] On an area of 112 square meters, it takes about a week. Preparatory work(with the installation of insulation and installation of the lathing) takes about 4 days. Siding can be assembled in three days of full work.
Pneumatic tools adapted to the siding attachment significantly speed up the installation process. The video shows in detail how to attach vinyl siding quickly and easily.
If you decide to decorate the walls of the house with such material as vinyl siding, the installation, the instructions for the implementation of which should be studied first, can be done by hand.
Vinyl siding is popular due to affordable price and ease of installation. But first you need to familiarize yourself with the order of work and the fastening technology.
Mounting vinyl siding includes several stages:
Materials:
Tools:
In order for the siding to serve regularly for many years, it must be fastened according to the instructions, making thermal insulation, which will protect the walls from freezing and moisture penetration. All places of contact of siding with brick, plaster, stone, concrete and spaces around openings in the wall must be insulated.
If cladding with siding will be made for a new facility under construction, then it is recommended to veneer the facade with moisture-resistant OSB boards first. For cladding the facades of a commissioned building with wood flooring walls you need to replace all damaged and fix loose boards. From the facade, before starting work, you need to dismantle all gutters, ebbs, shutters, lighting fixtures, etc.
Installation of siding begins with fastening to the walls of the sheathing made of flat bars of 25x80-50x50 mm along the entire length.
Bars are nailed vertically under horizontal siding, horizontally under vertical siding. The step of fixing the bars is 30-40 cm. If insulation is to be laid under the siding, then first of all, a crate for laying the insulation is attached perpendicular to the future crate under the siding with a step equal to the width of the insulation roll or mat. Along the perimeter of window and doorways bars should also be nailed.
After laying the insulation, it is protected with a waterproofing film, fixed with a stapler to the crate. You need to stretch it horizontally from the bottom of the wall. Each next row of film should overlap the previous one by 10 cm.
The lathing on which the panels will be mounted can be made both from bars and from a CD profile. The metal profile is not susceptible to atmospheric precipitation, therefore it is preferable to wooden blocks, which should be treated with an antiseptic.
So, strictly adhering to the above recommendations, strictly observing the order of work, you can do the installation of vinyl siding with your own hands, with a little effort. This will save on the work of professionals, and the result will delight for many years.
The main and obvious advantage is the simplicity of siding installation, having the necessary set of tools, everyone can do the siding installation with their own hands, even a person who does not have professional training and experience.
As with all finishing materials, siding will expand or contract from heat exposure, for this reason, tension on the panels should be avoided, and do not nail them tightly onto the crate. Usually, a 2 or 3 mm gap is sufficient.
When overlaying panels, take care to maintain a gap of 6-9 mm for thermal expansion. When installing in frosty conditions, the clearance should be approx. 12 mm.
Siding can be cut at temperatures above -10 °. Otherwise, it is better to cut in a heated room.
It is better to fasten the siding using galvanized short self-tapping screws with a rounded head that do not have a drill. The use of roofing nails is also possible. Another important point installation is that the siding should be fastened exclusively in the center, and not from the edges.
With uneven walls, a lathing is required. If you perform the cladding without lathing, then the entire curvature of the walls will be reflected on the siding. But, and at perfect walls lathing can be performed - this will provide ventilation of the facade, which will have a good effect on performance characteristics the buildings.
Each has pluses and minuses. The metal lathing has a slightly higher cost, albeit slightly. Wooden lathing must necessarily be processed using a special compound. For horizontal siding, vertical sheathing is performed, and vice versa.
If you use a special tool to install the siding, the work will be done faster and better. In addition, you will have to work:
Below is a plan of work that needs to be done to clad the house with siding:
The first step is to dismantle all protruding parts: doors, platbands, grilles, etc. Next, you should seal all the cracks using polyurethane foam or cement mortar.
You should also clean the walls from all kinds of dirt. A house made of wood must be treated with an antiseptic and antipyretic, foam concrete walls are treated with a primer.
Since the siding is not attached to the walls, the lathing should be installed. To do this, use a metal profile or wooden slats. For walls made of concrete and brick, a galvanized profile is used.
You can use the CD-profile for drywall. When facing a frame or wooden house, you can use 60 x 40 mm wooden slats with a residual moisture content of 15-20%. Before using the slats, they should be treated with an antiseptic. Using a tape measure and a level, they make a straight line marking of the walls, until a closed contour is obtained.
Now, at the corners, the distance from the marking to the foundation is measured, after which another contour is drawn along minimum value... The next stage is the installation of vertical guides. They must fit snugly against the walls to achieve this, you can use pieces of wood or dense foam. The guides should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.
In places of additional stress, for example, at corners and next to windows, you will need to add guides. There should be no joints between the vertical guides. This is to provide ventilation that prevents fungal growth.
Waterproofing must be done, as opposed to insulation.
For this, a moisture-proof membrane is used. If thermal insulation is performed, the lathing must be done in two layers.
Installation begins with drainage. It is rigid and easy to attach. Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the corner profiles are fixed. The next stage is to fasten the starting bar to the drainage along the marking. Along the perimeter of the windows, window strips or J-profiles are fastened so that the location of the outer bottom edge is slightly lower than the inner one.
The doorway is edged with J-profiles. When H-profiles are installed vertically in previously specified places, use the level. Here it is required to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the foundation in order to avoid bending of the planks over time. The top edge of the siding is closed with a finishing strip.
After installing all the guiding elements, you can start installing the panels. The first row is fastened to the starting bar.
Fastening of all other panels is carried out in the same way, up to the window or roof. The panels should not be overtightened or tightly fixed; they should wiggle a little on the sides. The finishing of the top row of siding is carried out using a finishing strip.
The siding can be connected along the length using a special H-rail. When using it, the panels are installed in the H-rail, and you do not have to deal with the so-called "runaway" - i.e. control that the location of the joints is not along one vertical line.
It goes without saying that the H-slats will be visible from the outside of the building, which can negatively affect the design. This problem can be solved simply - either the H-rails are selected according to the color of the siding, or the siding is mounted "overlapping". As already mentioned, such a happy finish requires a "run-off" so that the seam line is not so noticeable. Usually, they try to direct the visible part of the joints to the side from which they look at the house less often.
This helps to improve the visual perception of the building. Do not forget that using H-rails, you lose in terms of economy, due to the large number of trimmings. Of course, all this is relevant only when the siding bar is shorter than the length of the wall.
Don't cut the siding beforehand. Pruning is more convenient during the installation process.
Many cannot decide how to improve appearance your home. For this reason, in this material describes how to finish your home using best material to perform such work as facing installation - siding. Video instruction is attached.
There is nothing difficult during the installation of siding, you just need to watch the video, and lay everything exactly as described there. But before watching, it is worth reading a step-by-step explanation of this process:
1. Surface preparation.
Place insulation boards on the surface of the walls.
The space between the laths should not be completely covered with insulation, there should be at least a minimum distance for ventilation.
Siding fastening (installation is carried out from bottom to top!)
Determine the bottom level of the siding plates.
Mark the bottom level with string or chalk.
Mount the first row of planks along the marking line.
Install external or internal corners.
Install trim strips on window and door openings.
You decided to sheathe the house with siding, but that was the question - how to calculate the siding for the house? It's very simple! Since siding is a finishing material with clear geometric dimensions and a specific purpose, its quantity can be calculated up to 1 m².
To begin with, in the calculation process you will have to use the following items:
The amount of siding for the cladding of the building is considered in stages. The first step is to calculate how many siding panels are required, and at the second stage of calculations, the required additional elements are calculated.
Before doing the calculations, you should decide on the exact value of the area to be clad. To complete these steps, you should start drawing up a schematic drawing of the building, which you will later measure.
An important point: if a building that needs to be faced with complex geometry, then in your schematic drawing, in addition to dimensions, the placement of panels should also be indicated.
Thus, you create a groundwork for correct use material, and reduce the likelihood of encountering unplanned waste and lack of siding.
The following formula will help you in calculations:
Sр = Sst - Sо
where, Sр - calculated area, Sst - area of walls, Sо - area of windows and doors.
Now, we calculate the siding, taking into account the material that will not be used, according to the following formula:
where Sс is the siding area, and% is the unused material.
The amount of waste is taken equal to 7-10% in the case of covering rectangular walls. And from 10 to 15% in the event that trapezoidal walls are sheathed, or the walls have a large number of protrusions, recesses, etc. The more complex the configuration of the building, the more percent of the waste is obtained.
The next step is dividing the resulting area Sс by the usable area that one siding strip has. For example, a siding strip has a total area of 0.89 m2, then its effective area equal to approximately 0.777 m2.
By the way, sellers most often use the mathematical approach for calculating, due to the fact that their responsibilities include selling as much material as possible.
In order to avoid possible inaccuracies, it will be appropriate to draw up a plan that will accurately paint the detailed location of each strip of siding on a particular wall. If you use sketches, the calculation will be more accurate and you will get a visual installation diagram.
For this calculation method, the following formula is used:
where N is the total number of panels, Sп is the usable area of one panel, H is the height of the building.
Removing shutters, grilles, drainpipes and other fixtures from the surface on which the siding will be mounted.
Installation of siding battens. When using wooden slats, they should be impregnated with an antiseptic, since they have a moisture content of no more than 15-18%. Vertical slats are mounted at a fixed interval of 30-40 cm.
In this material, you are presented with examples of how a house is clad with siding - a photo of buildings, the exterior of which is made using classic vinyl siding, wood-like siding and facade panels... If you choose finishing material for your home, here you will find a lot of information for yourself!
Anyone can sheathe the walls of a house with siding. However, before starting work, it is necessary to take into account all the subtleties of the installation of this material. Today there are many types of siding: vinyl, metal, aluminum and others. However, the installation proceeds in about the same way.
The first thing to do before starting work is to draw up detailed drawing, in which literally everything will be calculated to the smallest detail: the amount of material and fasteners, the cutting of the siding, the fastening method. Otherwise, mistakes can be made.
Siding is never rigidly attached. Thermal expansion must be taken into account during installation. Therefore, the nail should be driven with this fact in mind.
To install the siding, you will need the following tools:
You will also need a ladder to work.
To strengthen the siding elements, you need to purchase nails. To work with siding, nails must be galvanized and have a wide head. The length of such nails should not be less than 5 cm.
"Siding" is a word that refers to a number of elements. The kit includes slats (profiles), panels and corners, or rather:
Such a number of elements requires very careful planning of the work before laying the siding. Any flaws will instantly affect the appearance of the sheathing.
Remember to be very careful when transporting siding panels. Do not stack them in a row of more than ten pieces. Also, care must be taken to ensure that the panels are not damaged by rough or uneven surfaces.
Before installing the siding, you need to carry out a number of works. They are mainly related to the preparation of the facade of the building. It is necessary to remove shutters, doors and all unnecessary elements that will interfere with installation. It is also necessary to align the plane of the walls. All cracks and crevices should be repaired. If the walls have gutter system, then it must also be removed. Once the siding has been installed, work on the surface will become impossible.
After the walls are prepared, you need to install the siding frame (crate). It can be made both from wood and profiles, and from more modern materials eg PVC. Wooden bars for the lathing, they must have a cross section of 60 by 40 mm.
If the walls are brick, then a wooden base will not work here. For such cases, it is better to choose a galvanized steel crate. Basement siding should also be finished with steel profiles. The tree is unsuitable for the reason that it quickly picks up moisture.
When choosing fasteners (nails and staples), you must opt for galvanized ones. This will prevent corrosion.
In some cases on wooden house panels are mounted without lathing. However, its use is desirable in any case. The lathing allows for better installation of panels and expands functionality siding.
Panels must be cut and cut before installation. Cutting can be transverse and longitudinal. Longitudinal cutting is carried out using metal scissors, transverse - with a circular saw. In doing so, jagged edges should be avoided.
A layer of insulation can be laid under the siding. It's quite simple: you need to install blocks of insulation between the battens of the crate and fix them inside. Siding - panels have only one function - they create an attractive appearance of the house. In this case, no additional load can be imposed on them.
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Let's get busy exterior decoration building. It would seem what the problem is to choose siding and sheathe the house with them: the main thing is that you like it and serve it for a long time. Went to the store, bought supplies, the right tools and took up the finishing.
In fact, it turns out to be a little more complicated: it is easy to make a mistake in the calculations, when choosing a sheathing or when installing finishing panels. Before buying your favorite siding, you need to decide what kind of material you will sheathe the house. For decoration, vinyl and acrylic panels, wood, metal and fiber cement plates are used.
Vinyl and acrylic panels are most often used for finishing the building (photo # 1)
We will tell you what material to choose, how to fix the siding, so that it serves for a long time, does not crack and does not fade. In addition to siding, you need to choose the type of lathing and insulation. It is worth insulating the house if you live in it. all year round, not just in summer.
You can do all the work yourself or hire an assembly team. In the case of hiring workers, you will control the finishing process and point out errors during installation. If you decide to install your own siding, you will need tools.
Tools you may need to attach the siding (photo # 2)
You will learn how to attach the siding to the wall from the outside and what tools you need for this:
Construction tape. The length of the finishing panels is 3 meters or more (there are panels of 3.10 and 3.66 meters in size). If you mount the planks yourself, you will need a tape measure of the appropriate length (for example, 5 meters);
Building level. How to fix the siding so that it does not break or deform? To do this, it is necessary to install the crate and fix the panels strictly according to the level. It is desirable to have two levels: for short sections, use a tool 70-100 cm long, for long surfaces - from 150 cm. Measure the vertical and horizontal accuracy of laying;
Schurovert. You will have to tighten a lot of self-tapping screws, so it is better to refuse to use a screwdriver. To mount the panels on a wooden crate, you can use nails, then instead of a screwdriver you need a hammer;
To attach the siding to the frame, a screwdriver is most often used (photo # 3)
Drill. If the walls of the house are made of bricks, concrete or foam blocks, you will need to drill holes and install dowels in them to install the lathing;
Hacksaw for metal. Vinyl and acrylic siding is easy to cut with a hacksaw. For these purposes, they also use a jigsaw with a blade for metal;
Cutter knife. To give the slats the desired shape, use a cutter knife or a stationery knife with a thick blade (a thin one can break). A curly cut can also be made with a jigsaw.
Punch. Finishing and window strips often need to be trimmed. Cut off the part on which the mounting hooks are located. Professional installers use a punch to make new holds.
To make new hooks on the bar, installers use a punch (photo # 4)
Stairs. For installation on the upper floors and on the pediment, you will need a ladder. You can use an extension ladder or a fold-out ladder. To avoid damaging the sheathing, do not lean the ladder against vinyl or acrylic siding.
We proceed to installation and start with the choice of the lathing. The crate is made from:
Before installing the battens, inspect the surface. If there are cracks, cracks and other defects on it, they need to be repaired. In the event that the old cladding is crumbling (for example, paint or plaster), it must be removed. If there are strong drops and unevenness on the walls, they should be smoothed out. Otherwise, the geometry of the wall will be violated and the siding may crack or deform.
After eliminating irregularities, you need to treat the walls with a protective coating. To protect the walls of a wooden house, use an antiseptic and a fire retardant: the former will cope with moisture and decay, the latter will prevent fire. Concrete walls prime deep penetration... It will prevent mold and mildew growth.
Wooden lathing for siding (photo # 5)
The lathing is mounted perpendicular to the siding panels. In other words, if you want to lay the siding horizontally, then the frame of the sheathing must be made vertical. And vice versa. Step between wooden beams or metal profiles should be 30-50 cm.
Hydro-wind insulation is laid under the crate. It protects the building from wind and moisture. Due to the presence of the lathing, a ventilation gap is formed between the walls of the house and the finishing panels. The gap prevents the formation of condensation harmful to walls and sheathing. To keep the house warm, you can lay insulation between the crate. For this, use mineral wool and expanded polystyrene foam.
Wooden lathing. It is made from beams 4 cm or 5 cm thick. When choosing beams, pay attention to the smoothness of the surface and the absence of cracks. Before installation, you need to dry the wood and cover it with solutions that protect the wood from decay and fire.
If you are faced with the question of how to attach siding to wood, then there are 2 options: with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws or with a hammer and nails.
Metal lathing of walls and basement (photo # 6)
Profile for fixing drywall. If the task is to save money, then profiles for siding are used for internal works... Most often, drywall sheets are attached to such structures. Manufacturers do not recommend using drywall profiles outdoors. Due to the thin zinc coating, corrosion appears on them under the influence of moisture. They are intended for indoor use and are not suitable for siding applications.
Metal U-shaped profile. For attaching the siding, a durable metal profile with a thickness of 1 mm is also used. This design is more reliable than the lathing with a profile for drywall, but it will cost more. If you are using heavy cladding panels (for example, basement or metal siding), then you need to use street profiles.
Alta-Profil polymer system for fastening facades. Polymer profiles are not susceptible to rust and decay, they do not need additional processing and special storage conditions. If you chose vinyl siding for cladding a building, you need to take into account that it expands in hot summer and narrows in winter. Polymer profiles prevent deformation of cladding panels due to sudden temperature changes, they have the same coefficient of expansion as siding.
Plastic profiles are not susceptible to rust and decay (photo # 7)
After installing the lathing, proceed to the siding fastening. If you are inexperienced in finishing and don't yet know how to attach siding, start at the back of the building - possible mistakes will be less noticeable. For fastening the siding, auxiliary elements are used: mounting strips and profiles. They are starting, corner and connecting.
For fastening the siding, auxiliary elements are used: finishing strips and profiles (photo No. 8)
Siding installation begins with the installation of the starting bar. To do this, determine the lowest mounting point and step back from it 1-2 cm up. Next, using a building level, chalk or a marker, draw a horizontal line to mark. To keep the structure stronger, a rigid base is attached under the bar, for example, a metal corner.
The bar is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. Use galvanized fasteners, they will not corrode. The bar expands under the influence of temperature, so do not tighten the screws (do not drive nails) to the end, leave a small gap (1-2 mm). The further laying of the cladding depends on the accuracy of the installation of the starting plate. After mounting the starting strip, the corner and near-window elements are mounted.
Expert advice. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the middle of the oblong hole. The fasteners should not press the bar against the frame.
To fix the siding by the window, use a window strip or J-profile. The choice of fastening element depends on the location of the window. The window can be positioned flush with the wall or equipped with external slopes.
If the window is flush with the batten, use the J-profile. First, fasten the slats to the sides of the window opening, (vertically) so that they do not protrude beyond the window. After that, install horizontal slats: above the window and below the window.
Cut the horizontal J-rails not flush with the window, but with a 6 cm margin on each side. You can make the cut angle straight or 45 °. Do not forget about temperature drops, leave a small gap between the joints of the profiles.
To fix the siding by the window, a window strip or J-profile is used. The choice of fastening element depends on the location of the window (photo # 9)
For finishing a window opening with slopes up to 22 cm wide, near-window (or wide near-window) strips are used. The installation of the window-sill structure takes place in two stages: first, finishing strips are mounted along the perimeter of the window, after which the near-window strips are installed on them.
Slopes with a width exceeding 22 cm require integrated approach for installation. From the side of the window, a J-profile is installed around the perimeter, from the outside, a structure is mounted from the outer corner, into which the siding panels are inserted.
For installation around doors, J-profiles and near-window strips are used. During installation, it is important to remember about the thermal deformation of the elements and not install them tightly to each other.
A finishing strip is used to mount the last siding panel. It is most often used at the top of the wall under the eaves. The prepared-to-size bar is fastened to the crate with self-tapping screws (leaving a gap of 1-2 mm). After that, the top siding piece is placed under the fold of the finish strip. The last panel may need to be trimmed. To secure the trimmed panel to the finishing strip, make new hooks using a punch.
For the installation of the last siding panel, a finishing strip is used (photo # 10)
Finishing panels can be installed on any type of building. It doesn't matter if the house is built of bricks, concrete foam blocks or wood, it can be finished with siding. We will tell you how to attach siding to a wooden house and other types of buildings.
Expert advice. Check the siding for accuracy every 3 rows. Do it building level vertically and horizontally or use the Alta-Profil facade fastening system in order not to follow the level.
Before installation wooden walls should be treated with a protective coating: antiseptic and fire retardant (photo # 11)
Before installation, wooden walls should be treated with a protective coating: antiseptic and fire retardant. For mounting the lathing, you can use nails or self-tapping screws, you do not need to make additional holes.
When finishing concrete and brick buildings, the walls are covered with a primer, for the installation of the battens, holes are drilled for dowels, into which screws are screwed.
For cladding the foundation, basement siding is used. To do this, choose reinforced vinyl panels. Such panels are resistant to damage and to any temperature extremes. The structure and shape of the facade panels offers a wide variety of options. The design of the front panels is made "like a stone" and "like a brick".
The basement panels are resistant to damage and to any temperature fluctuations (photo # 12)
Which panels to choose, and how to fix the basement siding to the foundation, you can decide on your own. First, measure the foundation and calculate the required volumes. As with regular siding, charge 10-15% more, so you have a stock of panels in case of marriage.
The basement panels are thicker and heavier than usual, so for their installation a metal U-shaped profile for siding or ready-made polymer solutions "Alta-Profile" (facade fastening system) is chosen. The rest of the installation of basement siding is the same as the installation of standard panels.
We told how the siding is properly attached, explained how to install the crate and choose the materials. If you decide to sheathe the house with siding yourself, first of all check the availability necessary tools and calculate the required volumes of materials.
Prepare the walls, choose the type of battens, insulation materials and insulation. When installing, do not forget that the siding expands under the influence of temperature. Leave small gaps to avoid deformation of the panels.
