To paraphrase Comrade Sukhov, we can say: a rack is a necessary thing. And subtle, despite the apparent simplicity. Is it worth making a rack with your own hands? It depends on its purpose.
If the rack itself is an element of the interior and, especially, if it zones the room, it would be better to buy it. Firstly, it is difficult to make a fairly aesthetic, strong and durable piece of furniture on your own. And even if you have the necessary tools and skills for this, it is unlikely that a homemade product will cost less than a factory product.
However, if the rack itself in the design plays a subordinate role, i.e. the less you can see it, the better, or it is somewhere in a non-residential area, you can take it yourself. And, finally, it makes perfect sense to make a shelving unit yourself if its purpose is specific. Branded products of this kind are expensive, and their adaptability to special operating conditions is often only declared. We will analyze the following cases:
It is generally accepted that books should be stored in a cabinet with sliding glass doors. You can, of course, make such a bookcase with your own hands; having sufficient experience in carpentry work, the finished product will cost less than the purchased one and will look no worse.
But experienced second-hand booksellers keep their collections on the shelves. The reason is that books, if they are not one-day bestsellers in paperbacks, must breathe. And breathe clean air, not the fumes of synthetic resins, varnishes and paints. Of two old books of the same circulation, stored in proper conditions on a shelf, and after 200 years will remain readable. And the one languishing in the closet, at the same temperature, humidity, lighting, will turn sour after half a century (in the literal sense of the word, there is such a term - an acidic book) and after another 10 years it will begin to crumble into dust.
The prices for branded book racks are clearly disproportionate to the complexity of the products. Then, in addition to open shelves, other suitable external conditions are needed for books. Therefore, if you really do the shelving yourself, then the first thing to do is book.
Drywall is easy to cut, it can be bent; however, only in one plane. But! A piece of drywall 400x400 mm in size by weight in six months sags already under its own weight. And the shelves of the cabinet or rack should remain level and under load; if these are books or jars with homemade preparations, the load will be considerable.
Therefore, a drywall rack is assembled on a complex spatial frame from a special profile and is suitable only for trinkets. The work is already difficult, and then you need to finish. So you can take on a drywall rack only with the intention of getting your own unique product, and certainly having experience with this material.
Racks made of modern plastics hold the load - even to thresh the devil's peas. They are beautiful and durable. But making one yourself at home is unrealistic: you need equipment for precision plastic molding. Adhesive joints and cuts will always be visible, and for a basement or shed, the material will be too expensive.
Wood is also easy to process, and making a wooden rack seems to be easier than ever: cut pieces of timber, knocked down with nails, and that's it. But, not to mention aesthetics, such designs do not last long: they warp, bend, sag. The matter turns out to be in quite insignificant details.
Look at fig. The shelves of the rack with the racks are connected either with nails / screws, or with dowels - blind wooden bosses. If we are talking about the bed frame, the dowels are held well: the load on them is directed along the board; in this direction, there is a lot of material that resists it and it works in compression. The dowel itself works for shift, but in this case it is not scary. The joint is tight (who makes the crevice furniture?) And the shoulder of the loading moment is negligible. Until it begins to dry out, it will hold.
If the board is a shelf of the rack, then the load presses on the connectors across the board. And it doesn't matter if it is a linden block or a nail - the board will break over time. Where it rests on the dowel, the shelf now has a shear load, which is very bad for any material. So it doesn't matter if it's wood, plywood or fiberboard. There is still little material that resists shear, and the shoulder of the load moment can be the entire length of the shelf.
Note: it is generally impossible to use in racks connections on dowels with internal wedging - pins. The shelf may crack during installation.
To convert the joints from shear to compression with bending, shelves made of wood in a garage or dry basement are laid on pieces of timber nailed to the sidewalls. Such a rack, of course, is more durable and holds a large load. But the view - as they say, if only it was. And any asymmetry in the distribution of the load gives a shear moment to the fasteners. It does a small but dirty deed: a seemingly strong and dry rack over time begins to mow and slope for no apparent reason.
You can make it clearer and at the same time stronger by typing the sidewalls of 2-3 layers of plywood or MDF on nails or self-tapping flea screws and glue, as on the right in Fig. Now the shelves lie in the grooves and will hold tight. But, firstly, it is necessary, as for drywall, to putty the holes above the heads of the fasteners, and then paint and decorate the entire product. Secondly, plywood shelves will still sag, they will have to be reinforced with frames made of beams or a corner, and they will look even thicker than planks.
Note: For an experienced craftsman who knows how to handle a tongue and groove, boards can be taken on the sidewalls and intermediate walls of a rack with mortise shelves. But you still have to reinforce the shelves with nails or self-tapping screws, and the putty in the painting is not canceled. And you will also need to very accurately mark the places of the grooves. And the sidewalls from pieces of plywood or MDF can be assembled on site.
Nevertheless, such a rack will go to the nursery for toys and small household items. Here the choice of material is unambiguous: only wood. Metal can be scratched and cut, drywall is easy to pick and at the same time gets dusty, and plastic glares, which is very harmful to children's eyes.
Before the author, when he was still a student, the need arose to make wall-mounted bookshelves. With almost complete absence of tools and working conditions: Well, who will allow you to arrange a workshop in the hostel? But in the conditions of an acute shortage of materials - it was in the USSR during the heyday of stagnation. Moreover, the shelves were needed collapsible - who knows which room in next year have to live.
Autumn when visiting the exhibition of mobile sculptures. If people for the sake pure idea from pieces of scrap metal - wires, cans - they create such things in incredibly simple ways, then who will I be if I don't make some shelves for myself? The result is a metal rack made of 6 mm bar, 0.4 mm galvanized steel and bicycle spokes, see fig. In the future, the design was repeated many times, improving.
The first-born rack is still alive, although more than 30 years have passed. It hangs in the closet-workshop, and what is piled on it can be seen in Fig. on right. True, hammer enamel for galvanized shelves and Kuzbasslak for the frame were “tyril” to order for a bottle from a military plant.
The holes for the spokes in the outer (front) frame of the frame are blind. In adjacent to the wall - through. After assembling the frames, the ends of the knitting needles in them were stamped with a center punch. Making the 8-shelf shelving took a day from light to light, with smoke breaks and beer.
The blanks for the shelves were cut in a large margin along the edge - 60 mm with a finished bend height of 10 mm, and after bending they were cut to size on a cutting wheel; this is a machine like a large stationary grinder. Otherwise, the bend wobbled - bending was carried out in the most primitive way, with the help of a locksmith's vice and three pieces of an 80 mm steel angle. Bend - about 80-85 degrees; when trying to achieve exactly right angle there was a wave again along the edge.
Critics said - they say, in a week it will sag forward. But it has not sagged for many years. As the calculation later showed, free-lying trough shelves pull the load to the corner adjacent to the wall, and very little is needed for the skew, and the bicycle spokes are made of high-quality steel.
Initially, the upper ends of the racks adjacent to the wall were bent, cut off, and small substandard eyelets purchased from Yuno Tekhnika, pos. B. Then the suspension became simpler: the ends of the racks bent L-shaped and hammered into the dowels, position G. At the same time, bending the ends both at the top and at the bottom, it was possible to fasten the sidewalls to the wall obliquely in the transverse plane and get racks not only of rectangular configuration.
In a completely natural way, this "transformable-modular" technology with free-lying shelves also gave a corner rack. All that was required was to cut the shelves at the corner trapezoidal in plan.
Then the task arose: to adapt the rack for home workpieces, where the load on the entire rack of about 1x1.5 m "from the face" exceeded 150 kg. Initially, the side and intermediate frames were made bent from a solid bar, pos. B. But this did not solve the problem: the vessels, if you touch them a little, drove on slippery metal. A fence was made for each shelf - the hostess issued a complaint: it was inconvenient to get it. In the end, the problem was solved in an elementary way: the holes for the spokes in the front frame pillar were displaced by about 2 mm upward, see fig.
Now cans with "twists", as soon as you touch them, they already strove not to crash to the floor, but to rest against the wall. Such a rack turned out to be suitable not only for cans, but also for any breakable items: valuable trinkets, indoor plants... 4 or 5 copies were made at different times.
When fastened to the wall with L-shaped bends in the dowels, the height of the rack with frames bent from a solid bar can be any, even the entire wall. In this case, the maximum width of the shelves produced was 400 mm without a noticeable deflection of the spokes. No wonder: almost all the load falls on the corners where the spoke is firmly seated in the bar.
Mounting to the wall in the dowels turned out to be convenient in three other respects. Firstly, no matter how the floor plays, the rack will not tilt from this. Secondly, it is not possible to hammer the bends into the dowels completely, which makes it possible to change the wallpaper behind the rack without removing it; it is convenient to place a drill of the required diameter under the frame to accurately maintain the gap. Thirdly, the rack can be placed completely vertically on a completely humped wall. To do this, it is enough to hammer the bends into the dowels, checking the plumb line.
Note: a large bookcase of this type has shelves 350 mm wide and 1200 mm long. One shelf 450 mm high for folios, two 350 mm high for quarto, and five more 250 mm for regular format books. Only 2400 mm. The capacity of one section is approximately 300 volumes, when the books are placed in one row. Small ones on the upper shelves can be installed in two rows.
Children, as you know, do not stand on ceremony with furniture. And they love to hide in it. Therefore, in addition to restrictions on the choice of material (wood), the rack in the nursery must be durable, although the toys themselves do not weigh much.
Note: bamboo racks are very suitable for a nursery. They are lightweight, durable, environmentally friendly, seemingly pleasant, see fig. below For self-made, however, are not suitable - home technology is complicated, and the material is expensive at retail. But the moment to buy now (spring 2014) is just favorable: China in the market is firmly grappling with a new frisky competitor - Colombia - and prices are falling.
It is necessary to make a children's rack in a sturdy frame-box with corner joints into a thorn. The intermediate walls are installed on dowels, and the shelves are cut into them. The minimum groove depth is 12 mm, otherwise nothing will remain from compression in the groove, an almost pure shift will already occur, and the bottom edge of the groove will begin to crumble or crack. Hence, the minimum material thickness for the sidewalls is 20 mm, and for the intermediate walls 30 mm, if the shelves are at the same height. If spaced in height - 20 mm, but the separation is at least 60 mm. In plywood walls, the groove depth and the height spacing of the grooves can be halved.
Such a rack is strong, especially if there is also a back wall, but it looks a little breech, on the left in the right fig. A child's rack without sidewalls looks more fun, on the right in the same fig. But the back wall in it must necessarily be made from a single piece of plywood or laminated fiberboard; for the previous option, chipboard will go. Connections of parts to the back wall - through self-tapping screws and glue.
Note: in general, chipboard as a material for shelving is undesirable. It is impossible to completely get rid of shear loads in any cabinet furniture with shelves, and chipboard, by its structure, holds shear very badly.
Two cases are possible here. In the room to be repaired, a rack made of scraps of boards or laminate on a rope suspension is suitable, see Fig. If in suitable place for example, a heating pipe runs under the ceiling, then there is no need to hammer the wall: we just tie a rope to it, and that's it. Work - for an hour or two.
For seasonal vivariums with small domestic animals, the requirements for racks for cages are stricter: they must withstand the effects of precipitation for at least 3-4 seasons and keep the wind load. In this case, the rack will help out from the profile. Perforated thin-walled corners (see the figure on the left below in the text), boxes, etc. are available in a wide range and are inexpensive.
It is not necessary to buy a set for commercial shelving - ready-made profile pieces, corner connectors, shelves, hardware - it is too expensive. A standard length angle piece and a handful of M5-M6 bolts with nuts are enough. You can cut a perforated corner with metal scissors or even tailors; the thickness of a rather soft metal is 0.25-0.5 mm.
Boards or plates for shelves are not needed - by turning the corners up during assembly, the cages can be installed directly on them. The problem of wind pressure is also easily solved. We bend the lower parts of the vertical racks, notch, L-shaped and through the perforation we also drive L-shaped pieces of steel bar into the ground.
It is possible to assemble a rack of this type for 20 quail cages in 2 hours without haste, including cutting a profile. The height of the "shelves" is 0.6-0.8 m for quails and 0.5-0.6 m for rabbits. The structure lasts for at least 6 seasons without maintenance and painting.
Note: surprisingly, in a slightly rusted rack, animals get sick less and reproduce better.
Plants also feel their habitat. The most stringent requirements for racks with pots are made by the uzambara violets - saintpaulias; seedlings and other small plants besides cacti will also thrive on the violet rack. It is worth telling a little more about the saintpaulias.
Note: cacti do not keep on shelves at all. Cacti and African succulent euphorbia, habitually similar to them, simply hate it when something hangs over them. No mysticism - clouds and rain in Sonora or Kalahari are destructive to stem succulents rigidly adapted to constant dryness.
Uzambara violets with pansies are not distantly related either. They belong to the Gesneriaceae family. Wild Saintpaulias grow in the Uzambara Mountains of South Africa. They are rather nondescript, although they look nice. This cuteness prompted gardeners to develop a huge variety of cultivated varieties of Saintpaulias. These are no longer Cinderellas, but luxurious secular lionesses (see samples in the figure), very capricious.
Usambara violets - saintpaulias
They are small in stature, and amateur violet growers collect extensive collections for themselves, see fig. on right. They are kept on shelves, but not simple ones. If the wild ugly Saintpaulias are content with crevices in the rocks with a handful of some soil, then the sleek cultural beauties languish at the slightest inconvenience.
First, the dimensions of the rack matter. More or less space required - Saintpaulias, figuratively speaking, immediately begin to wrinkle their nose and puff out their lips. A drawing of the tested structure is shown in Fig. lower left; dimensions - in centimeters.
Secondly, there is one trick. By the way, it is also very suitable for seedlings. In either case, in order for the plants to grow strong, stocky, with a well-developed root system, and in adults to bloom and bear fruit profusely, a small, barely perceptible, heating of the soil is needed. Branded shelving with automation is very expensive because of this. For uzambar violets with seedlings, the matter is complicated by the fact that they require nutritious, well-moistened soil, which, without heating from below, is prone to acidification.
Now let's do a little experiment. Take a piece of Styrofoam with our hands. Do you feel warm? But nothing warms up foam. But, besides being an excellent heat insulator, it also perfectly reflects thermal radiation. And from the palms - too, so the hands feel their own warmth.
Let's go back to the plants. Heat is generated in moist nutrient soil. Not as much as in the dung heap, but if you put it back in the pot, there will be just as much as the plants need. Without any expensive automation.
The conclusion is clear: although the material of the shelving for vegetation can be anything, the shelves need to be covered with foam sheets. The thickness is sufficient in 4-5 mm. It seems to be nothing new - gardeners have long successfully grown seedlings in foam packaging boxes.
But one more little secret appears. The shelves for violets are not temporary, and the granular foam from the spilled water and crumbs of earth soon loses its appearance and begins to crumble. Therefore, under the violets, it is necessary to put not granular, but extruded polystyrene foam, EPS. This is the same foam made using a special technology. It is resistant, the dirt is simply wiped off with a rag. Water and organic matter from the soil is not afraid.
Note: Styrofoam or EPS is also good at reflecting the light from the shelf lighting, which also benefits the plants.
In the basement and garage, the microclimate is similar: heating is either minimal or none; the relative humidity is high. There is also little light, and there is nothing to fear from ultraviolet damage to wood. But the wooden rack must be protected from moisture and frost damage, even if it is completely clumsy. The best remedy for this - two-three-fold impregnation of workpieces with a water-polymer emulsion, it is cheap. But then, after drying, if you throw water on a tree, you can see how it rolls down, and the wood does not get wet. The effect lasts for many years in a dark room. After assembly, you need to once again go through the joints with a brush with the same PVA emulsion, this will protect the fasteners from rust.
The rack in the garage should also be compact: the width of a car with both doors open is more than 3 m. Standard sizes garage for a family car - 4x7 m in plan, so there is very little left on the rack.
The best option for a garage rack is a wall-mounted add-on. An example of a good design is shown in Fig. The adjustable tilt of the shelves allows you to safely store round parts, rolls and breakable materials. IN original design(still Soviet times) racks are made of beams, but now it will be cheaper and easier to make them from a perforated galvanized corner, see above.
Tool rack is a special article. Now, for example, for some reason shelves with a set of holes for different tools are in fashion, see fig. But, frankly, such a rack is convenient only if its contents are not used at all. Cause? Yes, in work you need to be able to take the tool and put it back to the touch. And here all the handles are at hand, and then you need to get into the hole. Every now and then the tool is dropped, lost, and, according to Murphy's First Law, falls exactly where it can cause the most damage. Loves to get lost with a sharp end on the leg.
Meanwhile, aviators, signalmen, power engineers and specialists of other professions, who in no way forget the tool in the serviced equipment, have long known a convenient and safe tool rack-stand, see Fig. below. By the way, regulated by the old GOST and industry standards. Although it has no walls or shelves, it is a shelving unit; in the sense - a place of ordered storage.
Material - board, plywood. Staples for large tools (blue) - made of wire or just not fully driven in and bent nails. Small hinges - leather or tarpaulin. There is a very simple amateur modification of cutting a board and pieces of durit hose, see next. rice. on right.
The pros, after painting the board in a neutral color, laid out the tool on it, outlined its contours with a pencil and painted it inside with red or poisonous yellow paint. It was immediately visible not only whether everything was in place, but also whether it was laid correctly, whether it would fall off. And, since the large tool rests on the brackets, it is easy to get the hang of it and put it back by touch. It's the same with small ones - you put it wrong, the loop is wrinkled, you can immediately feel it.
Note: The author is aware of a case when, in the BAO (airfield service battalion), one of the soldiers, when examined after work, was found to be missing a screwdriver. The whole battalion was looking for her all night, otherwise tomorrow's flights would have to be canceled, and this is an emergency. Found in the morning - rolled into the gap between the concrete slabs. What after that the poor little girl had to endure - in Hollywood, probably, they would have shot a box-office horror film.
If the tool rack is ordinary, with wooden shelves, then several glass jars from under canned vegetables with screw lids, rejected by the hostess due to the fact that the plastic dust inside the lid has worn off and it rusted. The lids are screwed to the underside of the shelf (next figure on the right), and small hardware is stored in the banks - you can immediately see where everything is.
If you need a shelving unit in the garage, then it is easiest and fastest to make it from wood. Moreover, for this it is absolutely not necessary to have the skills of making furniture, it is enough just to get acquainted with the technology.
At first glance, the rack is extremely simple furniture, so there is no need to talk about any variations in its design.
But, in reality, wooden shelving for home and garage, which you can make yourself, are of different types:
First of all, we will consider how to make a wooden rack with your own hands, which is most popular with garage owners, i.e. stationary.
It has a number of advantages:
I must say that such furniture can be useful not only for motorists. You can use these shelves for home - wooden shelves will withstand the load from conservation or, for example, books.
We divide the manufacturing process of this structure into several stages:
When preparing a project, you must first decide on following parameters products:
When all the parameters of the furniture are known, you need to decide on the type of construction.
As we said above, there are two options for the design of a stationary rack:
When you have decided on all the nuances, you should depict the future product with your own hands on paper, and indicate the dimensions of all the details - especially if you are doing this kind of work for the first time. The presence of such a scheme in front of your eyes will allow you to prevent mistakes in the process of preparing parts and assembling a structure.
What is required to assemble a rack - wood, namely, a bar with a section of 40x60 mm. We will make racks and supporting beams from it.
In addition, some other materials will be required:
If the structure is wall-mounted, you will need more dowels to fasten the structure to the wall.
Important! Dowels for fastening the structure to the wall are selected taking into account the material of the walls. If the walls are concrete or brick, ordinary dowel-nails (quick installation) will do. If the walls are made of aerated concrete, use chemical dowels or butterfly dowels.
Before you make a wooden rack with your own hands, you need to process everything wood materials protective impregnation.
The composition is applied with an ordinary brush - the only thing is that the tree should not just be covered with liquid, but literally rubbed in it. After the wood has dried, it is advisable to repeat the procedure to achieve the greatest effect.
You will spend only a few hundred rubles for such processing, approximately the same price for impregnation, but the structure will be able to serve in the garage for many years, even despite the harsh operating conditions - dampness, temperature changes, etc.
After preparing the lumber, you can start making the structure:
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Preparation of construction details:
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Docking racks. If the rack will be self-contained, you need to assemble the sidewalls of the rack, which are two paired racks, by following these steps:
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Assembly:
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This concludes the work. Now the structure should be sanded, then painted or varnished.
I must say that according to this scheme, it is possible to make not only technical furniture, but also home shelving - beautiful wooden sidewalls, for example, are easy to obtain by milling construction sites. Also, chamfer all corners to make them slightly rounded.
Advice! To make the product look like an expensive wood, tint the surface with wood stain or other glazing compound. Thus, you can give the surface any tone, from bleached oak to mahogany.
As a result, the product will look quite attractive. Therefore, it can be used not only in a pantry, but also in a library for storing books or, for example, in an office for documentation.
The wall rack is made in the same way, with the only difference that it does not have a rear rack. Therefore, the lateral lintels are rigidly connected to the rear beams of the shelves. In this case, the rear beams of all shelves are attached to the wall.
For small garages collapsible racks are an excellent solution. They are especially convenient for temporary storage of various small items. For example, during the repair of a car, you can put working tools and parts on such a rack, which is very convenient.
Such designs are based on the stepladder principle. The simplest option is a model with shelves that are put on the sidewalls.
For its manufacture, we need the following materials:
Before proceeding with the manufacture of the structure, process all the details according to the scheme described above.
Such do-it-yourself wooden racks are made as follows:
Manufacturing of side racks:
Nuance: the lower bar, which has a length of 300 mm, should not be located at the very base, but at a distance of about 100 mm from the edge of the posts, as shown in the photo.
Shelf manufacturing:
There is another version of such a rack, which even more resembles a stepladder. In fact, the product consists of two stairs, which are connected at the top by door hinges, which allows the structure to be folded. The basis for the shelves of this rack are the steps of the stairs.
To prevent the sidewalls from moving apart, you can attach a pair of straps or metal clips between them.
Such furniture can also be used not only in the garage. For example, you can use a folding wooden loggia rack as a flower stand.
And if you dock several of these "ladders", you can get a long collapsible rack, which in some cases can replace a stationary analogue.
Wooden hinged racks can also have different design... As an example, consider how to make the simplest model - with folding shelves. To make such a rack, we need sheet material - plywood or OSB.
All that is needed for the manufacture of such a structure is to mark the location of the shelves on the sheet and carefully cut them out with a jigsaw according to the markings. After that, the cut-out shelves must be hinged to the sheet.
Use straps or metal clips to fix the shelves horizontally. The main thing is to adjust the locking mechanism so that the shelves are strictly horizontal.
I must say that wall-mounted wooden racks of this type are not intended for storing heavy items. But on the other hand, they are very convenient for all kinds of small things.
As you can see, every beginner can make any kind of wooden shelving for a closet or garage. Moreover, this does not require any professional tool. Before getting started, we recommend watching the video in this article. We are sure it will be useful.
Shelving is a very common household item. Its main advantage is ergonomic and aesthetic: it is "airy", visually compresses the space of the room a little, which is essential in small apartments, and when zoning a room and in housing of any class. Shelving designs are not complicated, they do not require a lot of work, and at least for those who live in "budget houses" it makes perfect sense to build them on their own.
To make a rack with your own hands, you must first of all decide on its purpose. In addition to purely utilitarian racks in garages, basements, workshops, on balconies (which will also be given due attention later), racks in living quarters are used mainly as general-purpose storage facilities for small items, pos. 1 in fig. In second place in demand are book shelves, pos. 2. Second-hand booksellers and librarians are well aware that a book must breathe in closed cabinet won't live long.
This is followed by corner racks (item 3) in a restless corner, which sooner or later forms in any habitable apartment. With the help of a rack, you can arrange a work corner, a mini-boudoir, etc. Finally, a bookcase rack for space zoning, pos. 4, and a rack cabinet in cases where, using a regular cabinet, you would often have to open several doors at once, pos. five.
Note: racks for special purposes - for toys, in the kitchen, for flowers, tools, etc. - do not fit into the household classification and will be considered separately.
The latter cases are the most difficult from the point of view of furniture design. The zoning rack should be particularly strong, stable, and preferably anchored to the floor, ceiling and adjacent wall. A rack cabinet, in order to be equal in strength to its body counterpart, must, firstly, contain a central rigid box in the power circuit (possibly not of full height); secondly, its side sections must be strictly symmetrical, as shown in fig.
A wooden rack most often does not have rear paneling and solid vertical partitions, therefore its proper reliability is achieved by somewhat different means than with cabinet furniture. Box racks have a fairly strong and openwork structure. Their sidewalls are not necessarily solid shields, they can be stacked from flexible rods (broom effect) or beams and slats, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. These racks are most suitable for zoning.
Where appearance is not important, and workloads are small (linen, shoes, etc.), it is better to make a frame rack, pos. 3; these are the least labor-intensive and material-intensive. The loaded shelves in them can be included in the power circuit anywhere along the vertical and therefore they can be rearranged.
The racks of the beam scheme (pos. 4) are externally similar to the frame ones, and the shelves in can also be arranged according to the contents, but the frame itself works in a different way and is much stronger: beam racks from materials available to the home craftsman are capable of carrying a load of up to about 800 kg per running meter shelf length. The price is higher than that of frame ones, laboriousness and material consumption.
The cantilever wooden rack does not have separate load-receiving, distributing and load-bearing elements; it is, in general, a complexly fractured strip of material, in which the loads spread as necessary. It can have the most elaborate configuration and therefore cantilever racks are widespread in stylish design interior. However, they are suitable only for light things and more or less durable are only angular, pos. 5, or with reinforcements metal pipes, see below. However, cantilever shelving gave birth to modular shelving, which, with no less aesthetic advantages and the possibility of flexible layout, are quite durable.
Modular racks are all-assembled and stacked. The basis of the first 3 elements: grille, pos. 7, box, pos. 8, and a ladder, pos. 9. Of these, you can type products of the most bizarre kind, it would be a fantasy, but a step dimensional grid the design is the same. A hybrid stands apart in this row: a lattice of boxes assembled by a ladder, rotated 45 degrees, pos. 9. The strength is exceptional, from modules of this type you can type long, with corners, room zone dividers, without picking the floor with the ceiling.
Type-setting modular racks are made of flat (pos. 10) and volumetric, pos. 11, modules. Flat in this case does not mean that they are completely devoid of volume, but that there is a useful volume, i.e. capacity themselves do not have. Flat elements of type-setting racks, as a rule, have a complex configuration and are purchased ready-made. On their own, amateurs most of all make typesetting racks from volumetric modules-boxes. The modules are connected with double-sided tape, Velcro, pairs of clothing buttons, etc.
Relatives of the lattice module cantilever racks, i.e. with overhanging shelves, pos. 12. They are the most "airy", so they are often placed in a small hallway. One of the design options for a cantilever rack in the hallway is shown in Fig. on right. Racks made of pipes can be replaced with laminated chipboard plates or boards with a cross section of 150x18 mm, located as in pos. 12.
The box module gave rise to transformer racks of the "Varna" type, pos. 13. There is no transformation mechanism, as well as hinges: "Varna" is simply put as it should. The required rigidity is ensured by the presence of a strong back wall for all boxes and the choice of material - laminated chipboard of class E1.
A bridge rack, pos. 14. With an equal bearing capacity with a beam, it is less material-intensive, concentrated loads can be put in the middle of the A-shaped racks, and a long one can be placed on top. In everyday life, a rack-bridge is also able to find a place for itself. Look, for example, what kind of rack was made by people endowed with imagination and ingenuity, from a pair of old crutches, pos. 15. Crutches, by the way, can be replaced with 15-20 mm thick slats made of solid, durable and resilient wood: oak, beech, hornbeam, birch.
Note: the same rack is also suitable for flowers (see below), because its structural elements are not very conspicuous.
Metal is more resilient than wood and subject to plastic deformation, which is why it is generally more difficult to calculate and create spatial structures from it than wood. Therefore, a metal rack is built without taking into account the interaction of the base with the shelves, which can be of any material. Racks are assembled from metal mainly according to the least material-intensive frame and console schemes, tk. metal is stronger than wood.
Heavy, bulky, costly, requiring hard locksmithing and welding, racks from a corner or professional pipes are still being made, probably by inertia. Nowadays, it is easier, easier and cheaper to assemble a rack from a profile. Special thin-walled shelving, it is available in a wide range. You will need a perforated profile for the racks and a solid corrugated one for the shelf frames. The parts are fastened with self-tapping screws, and during assembly they are held in place with clamps, pos. 1 in fig. The structure is protected from skewing by X-shaped ties at the back, pos. 2; a special profile is produced for them. Such racks hold a load of 400 or more kg / r. m, and the frame is assembled by 1 person for an hour or two.
For a balcony, the bearing capacity of the rack made of special profile is excessive. Balconies / loggias are designed for a load of 1.2-1.6 tf; glazing gives several hundred kgf, and even furniture, people. So the shelving on the balcony can and should be made simpler, lighter and cheaper.
This is where the profile for product racks comes in handy, the so-called. trade. For a conventional balcony approx. 1 m, a pair of vertical U-shaped ties with brackets, pos. 3. Under the maximum load - 3-4 verticals. A wide assortment of fittings is sold to the trade profile, but we, in addition to verticals, only need brackets. They are produced with the number of positioning paws from 2 to 5, but since there will still not be socks-panties on the rack, you need to take at least 3-pawed ones; highlighted in color at pos. 4. The verticals are fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws (4,2-6) x (60-80) in propylene dowels with a pitch of 70-150 mm, and the brackets are simply inserted into the profile.
Racks based on industrially manufactured pipes are quite expensive, because shaped fittings and fasteners are used, on the left in Fig. They look a little dryish, so they put them most of all in offices. Amateurs most often reinforce cantilever racks with pipe inserts in the center. In this case, the support heels are purchased ready-made or milled to order.
To pull off the inserts, oak or, better, propylene corks are pushed into them at the ends. In the first case, the seam between the pipe and the plug is spilled with superglue (cyanoacrylate), and in the second, oblique notches are made on the inside of the pipe with a needle file and a plug with a diameter slightly larger than the inner diameter of the pipe is pressed in, heated with promphene until plasticity begins. More precisely, the pipe is pressed on: as soon as the cork begins to soften, it is placed on a hard surface and a pipe heated in the same stream from a hair dryer is pushed onto it. In any case, everything is pulled together with self-tapping screws.
If the design requires the connection of pipes in parallel and butt (T-shaped), as on the right in the figure, it is not at all necessary to spend money on shaped clamps. In parallel, the pipes are connected simply with self-tapping screws for metal, and end-to-end - as described above, with a plug.
A special case is the shelving in the cellar. Steel rusts, wood decays and molds. Here, a rack of pipes is most of all in place, only not from steel, but from water-supply propylene. How to make a PP pipe rack in a cellar, see the video below.
Hidden connections on dowels, in a blind spike / groove, etc. furniture in the shelves are not reliable enough, and nothing really holds on the dowels in them. The reason is the insufficient number of intersecting stiffness bonds in combination with a small support area and a high center of gravity (CG).
If the rack is in the utility / utility room, it's okay: they are connected with self-tapping screws, steel corners, etc. with metal fasteners. But above shelving for living quarters, you have to tweak to hide more reliable open connections. For racks on a frame, the simplest way is to hide the fastener heads under the shelves, on the left in the figure, due to their (shelves) carrying over the support frames. The front edges are then refined with laminated chipboard strips on dowels, as described below.
If the rack is entirely assembled from boards or plywood, then its parts cut into each other by half, as on the right in Fig. Please note that the grooves in the shelves are made at the back. Then the vertical struts will keep their front edges from sagging, and the rear ones will be diamond-shaped pads of about 70x70 mm made of any sufficiently strong material: plywood, plastic, metal.
In the case when the rack has a solid frame along the contour, it is best to replace individual "pyataks" with a solid sheet of 4-6 mm fiberboard. Then the extreme parts are made wider by the thickness of the fiberboard, a fold is chosen in them and the sheets of the back cladding are fastened with small self-tapping screws with press washers. Each corner and crosshairs should have a piece of hardware, and between them - with a step of 70-250 mm, so that they are evenly distributed.
Note: in some cases (see below) a modular cardboard rack will serve well. Then there is no need to fiddle around, reinforcing the glue joints with wooden pins, as, for example. in cardboard shelves: horizontal and vertical parts cut into each other by half, as in Fig. Glued with PVA, such a joint is quite reliable.
About the base
Does the rack need a plinth? A must, and not just for hygiene. Especially the kitchen one, which is pushed more often, and is stored in it wet, beating, greasy, free-flowing.
In a rack without a plinth or with a plinth without a forward projection, the projection of its CPU falls on the center of the support (CO). In case of accidental impact, the overturning moment will be directed anywhere, on the left in Fig. If the base is with an extension of at least 7-10 cm, then the overturning moment is always directed to the wall, in the center. An example of a rack in the kitchen, made with this in mind, is shown on the right, and due to the skillfully chosen design, the removal of the base is invisible.
Various racks
Garage
The first place where you cannot do without a rack is a garage, at least for seasonal tires. You can't keep it thrown at random. but standard width a garage of 4 m is not at all superfluous if the car doors are opened. Therefore, in addition to strength and convenience, a garage rack should be compact. Drawings of one of the options are shown in Fig. All parts, including the hinges of the shelves, are made independently from 30x30 timber, plywood and 6-8 mm steel bar.
And in fig. on the right - garage rack is not folding, but modular made of waste material: scraps of boards, plywood, timber. It is not necessary to connect them with through bolts; apparently, the author of the design had an abundance of them. Self-tapping screws will also go, they need to be wrapped from the side of the plywood / board into a bar. It is better to make 4 failures from above, according to the number of replaceable tires.
Book
Books give a significant and, what is important, stable static load. A collection of 3500 volumes (in an ordinary apartment without prejudice to everyday conveniences it will fit even more) takes about a ton. Therefore, the bookcase should be:
- Durable.
- On the plinth, with or without removal - the ingress of moisture on the books during cleaning should be excluded.
- From plywood from 18 mm or solid boards from 24 mm - chipboard does not hold a long-term static load, bends.
How the bookcase works is shown in the figure below. In the power circuit, in addition to the base, bottom and roof, at least 2 solidly fixed shelves are constantly tied, evenly spaced in height. The cuts for adjustable cuts are located in increments of 5 ”, which is equal to twice the size of the polygraphic module. This allows volumes from folio to in duodecimo to be placed, and pocket editions are stored separately in a mini-rack; possibly cardboard.
Key manufacturing points are given on the right in the same fig:
- The backdrop is sewn up with fiberboard so that the books and the wall do not rub together;
- The sides, on plywood pads, are sheathed with chipboard or a second layer of plywood, 2 flat boxes are obtained, bringing the overall rigidity to the required;
- Decorative overlays with a height of 100-150 mm are applied to the edges on dowels in milled grooves and glue. In addition to the stiffness of the shelves for deflection, the overlays provide a microclimate on the shelves that is favorable for books.
Note: the width of the shelves is approx. 30 cm. Storing books in 2 rows is inconvenient and not useful for them.
Toy
Children need to explore the world to become adults. The easiest way to explore is to break it open and see what's inside. Or what will happen, in addition to hauling and punishment, which goes without saying. With this in mind, a children's toy rack can be made in 2 ways.
The first one is “foolproof”, the rack is especially durable. An example of a practical design of this kind is on the left in the figure: a symmetrical shelving unit with a plywood backdrop.
The second is to give him / them free rein and let them break it. But with a sense, so that intelligence, coordination of movements, spatial imagination and in general the ability to handle things. Here, the optimum is a modular collapsible rack, on the right in the figure, let them configure themselves in their own way.
In order not to feel sorry, they will suddenly completely break, and so that they themselves are not injured, the parts are made in the same way as cardboard shelves:
- Spread a polyethylene (PE) film on a flat surface;
- Raw materials (original sheets) are laid out on it and impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion (VPE);
- When dry, turn over and soak on the other side;
- Blanks (plates) for parts are cut with an inner corrugation of the cardboard oriented mutually perpendicular in adjacent layers;
- The corrugations of the outer layers should be oriented along the long side of the part;
- If there are 5 layers, then the corrugations are oriented with a turn of 45 degrees: 0 (along) - 45 (obliquely) - 90 (across) - 135 (obliquely in reverse side) - 180 (again along);
- PVA is glued all at once without exposure to tack and covered with PE film;
- Withstand 2-3 days under a small, 3-5 kg / sq. m, oppression evenly distributed over the surface, books, stacks of old newspapers, magazines, etc. are convenient for this.
Shoe
From the point of view of the safety and wear of shoes (which at current prices from the point of view of the budget is clearly felt), you need 2 racks for shoes: in a small "dirty" shoe it will "shake" before cleaning, otherwise dust / dirt will rub into the leather / fabric, which will seriously reduce her service life. Grains of sand are especially harmful here. Then, in a larger “clean” rack, shoes that are out of season or not very common are stored in conditions conducive to their durability.
There are no problems with "dirty" shelving, it is a small box with lattice shelves, even rope ones, as in fig. "Clean" can be a shelf for shoes or a shoe cabinet with folding shelves in the hallway. However, if the house can be fenced off if not a dressing room, but at least some nook with an even microclimate, this will only make shoes better.
A drawing of a rack for long-term storage of shoes is shown on the next. rice. Construction - economical frame made of 20x20 slats; lattice type-setting shelves. If you remove 1 section 375 wide, this rack will fit even in the closets of the infamous Khrushchev kopeck piece.
Instrumental
The simplest tool rack is a board with clips where tools are put in, nails / hooks and hangers on which they are attached, on the left in Fig. For small tools - a board with holes, where they are inserted by handles, in the center. But much more economical and practical is the old-fashioned way to make a tool rack from cutting boards and pieces of rubber (preferably reinforced dyurite) hose, on the right. And it is safer: the likelihood that the tool will fall out and have a blade on the leg or prick the hand on the lips is almost zero.
Floral
A rack for indoor plants should, firstly, open them all to the light; secondly, not visibly to replace flowers and greenery. Single-column racks (two positions on the left in the figure) are "generally airy", but their openwork appearance is quite difficult technologically and their stability is low. Much simpler and more reliable is a bookcase for flowers, 1- and 2-sided, two pos. on right.
More difficult, but allows you to place in the same area more plants and almost invisible behind them is the pyramid bookcase, pos. 1 in fig. on right. If you spend more on material and make it solid from plywood, as in pos. 2, then it will be possible to keep even antagonist plants in one place, i.e. intolerant of neighborhood with each other.
Many keep flowers on balconies, even setting up orchid greenhouses there. In this case, the whatnot comes in handy, the drawings of which are given on the left on the next. rice. The space inside the rack is not wasted there: a weak, 50-80 W, electric heater is placed in it, heating mainly with thermal radiation. It can be made from 2-3 25 W incandescent lamps, covered with a galvanized casing. It is the lack of root heating (the roots get cold, catch colds and cease to feed the vegetative parts) that explains most of the failures of the balcony plant culture. And from such a rack, when illuminated with Flora or LD lamps, you can get cucumbers, strawberries, even tomatoes all winter
Note: on the right in the same fig. - portable spring flower rack for giving. Can serve as a greenhouse.
For violets
Violets in this case are not forest and not pansies, but not at all related to them Saintpaulias from the Gesneriaceae family. Uzambara violets, or simply violets, were nicknamed by their homeland - the Uzambara mountains in South Africa. Due to its grace, diminutiveness and abundance of varieties, Saintpaulias have become, and quite deservedly, literally cult plants.
The culture of the Gesneriaceae, among which there are many that give odds to orchids, is a special topic. But from a technical point of view, a rack for violets should be moisture resistant, chemically absolutely and absolutely neutral and allow placing illuminators: the culture of Saintpaulias is better not on the window, but with even illumination with LDC lamps, on the left in Fig.
The shelves of a homemade shelving unit for the Saintpaulia collection can be made by gluing 2 pieces of PVC box for electrical communications, 150 mm wide, in the center. They also serve as good light diffusers. They are glued with an assembly "Moment"; dichloroethane glue (not pure dichloroethane!) is very toxic and requires special precautions.
Assemble a rack for violets on PP pipe lengths approx. 400 mm with inserts from the same pipes of a smaller diameter and self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are driven in with heating:
- Drill holes for them with a diameter along the body of the hardware without thread.
- Screw in until it fits snugly and evenly.
- The heads of the hardware are heated with a soldering iron (ordinary, electrical) until the plastic around it slightly bubbles.
- Screw in quickly until the head is recessed.
- For stability, the joints of the assembled rack are carefully dug with superglue.
For seedlings
Seedling racks, especially in commodity farming, have a number of design features compared to floral household. Which ones and how to make a seedling rack, see the video.
Video: DIY seedling rack
Shelves have always been of great interest. This is a fairly convenient thing that can be used to store various things, books. You can also place it on tall racks and pots with low plants, which will look pretty nice.
Figure 1. Drawing of a wooden rack.
Making a wooden rack with your own hands is not so difficult and almost every person can do it. You just need to prepare everything you need for work in advance. Today there are many options for shelving, different in design. But below we will consider one of the simplest and most practical options.
Before embarking on the process of making a wooden rack with your own hands, you need to choose the right materials and tools.
It is advisable to choose natural wood boards as the main material. For this purpose, oak, pine or mahogany are best suited. It is not recommended to use boards based on wood chips, as they will not be particularly durable and practical. At the same time, make sure that the moisture content of the wood does not exceed 12%. Also, before work, the tree is treated with antiseptics and special impregnations, after which it is allowed to lie down in a warm room for a couple of days. In addition to the boards, for the shelving you will need:
Tools for making wooden shelving.
We start work by choosing the bottom base. A thick board is taken as such (the thickness should be such that a self-tapping screw 3 cm long can freely enter it). Moreover, its length is equal to maximum length rack, and the width is its maximum width, which you choose yourself. In this case, at the bottom of the base, it is advisable to nail transverse bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the base, through each meter of the rack length. They will provide additional strength.
Now let's move on to work on the sideboards. If you have limited material resources, you can use thick plywood for the sides instead of natural wood. Immediately mark it so that the width is equal to the width of the base, and the height of the boards is chosen independently. Next, carefully cut out the sides of the desired size. Immediately we make markings for the shelves on their inner side. At the same time, one should not forget that the optimal figures for the height of the shelves are 21 and 42 cm. These two heights can be combined. So you get the shelves that are both roomy and quite neat at the same time.
Rack assembly diagram.
Now move on to cutting out the shelves from the wood. Their length is measured from the inside of the rack so that they fit freely and tightly into the rack at the same time. The width is equal to the depth of the cabinet itself. Shelf thickness in ideal option should not be less than 2.5 cm.BUT it is still better to fix them with transverse bars from below. The bars can be nailed down with ordinary small nails.
Next, it's time to tackle the back wall. As a rule, if you are satisfied with the color and texture of the wall to which the cabinet adjoins, then the back wall may not be mounted. But if this is necessary, then a wall is cut out of ordinary plywood, based on the dimensions of the length and height of the rack.
So, all the necessary structural elements have been prepared. Now the most important thing is to assemble a wooden rack into a single structure. In this case, it is best to use several different types fasteners: self-tapping screws, and wood glue, and nails, and metal corners, if necessary.
First, the lowest shelf for the base is taken, to which the rear wall of the rack is attached using self-tapping screws. If such a wall is not provided for by you, then immediately start working with the side walls. On the inside, you have already made the markings for the shelves.
So now, on each of the markings, parallel to each other, it is necessary to fix special metal or plastic (depending on the intended load for the shelves) holders on which you can put wooden shelves. Further, these sidewalls are mounted to the lower base using self-tapping screws. In this case, do not forget to observe the evenness of all corners. For reliability, it is even better to use metal corners as fixing elements.
But this was the first version of the shelves. There is also another - a solid mount. Here you do not need to make holders. In this case, the shelves will be directly connected to the sides. To do everything correctly, first attach the side walls to the base with self-tapping screws, after which one person should hold a shelf inside the rack according to the marking, and the other should fix it with self-tapping screws from the outer part of the sidewalls. From under the bottom of the shelf, it is advisable to additionally fix it with the same metal corners. But keep in mind that this method is a little more complicated, as it requires perfect measurements of the length of the internal shelves, as well as more time and attention to work. Any distortions can ruin the rack. Therefore, immediately use the building level as well.
So, the main part is ready. Now it remains to fix the rack cover on top, which will give the rack a finished look and protect the topmost shelf from dust getting on it. Fastening is carried out using all the same screws.
The manufacture of the rack (in particular, during the assembly process) will be more reliable if, after drilling the holes for the self-tapping screws, you smear them inside with carpenter's glue. This will provide additional reliability. It is best to use furniture legs on casters as legs for the shelving unit. So it will be much more convenient to move the structure, if necessary, and it will be able to withstand any loads, while not provoking distortions.
A do-it-yourself wooden rack is ready! Its main part will look like in fig. 1. This simple and practical design at the same time is suitable for any room: kitchen, bedroom, hall. Now you just have to cover the rack with wood varnish and let it dry properly.
IN household over time, so many necessary things accumulate that the available lockers are sorely lacking. This problem is especially acute for the owners small houses and apartments. Shelving will help out - a universal shelf design of any size and for every taste. We recommend ordering the wood-polymer composite that you need on the website https://mydecking.ru/.
Since it can be put absolutely everywhere: in the nursery, in the office, in the garage, etc., there are an infinite number of manufacturing options. The design of any rack includes vertical frames, cross members and shelves. You can build a simple rack on your own in the basement for storing cans of blanks or in the garage so that all the tools you have are neatly stored on the shelves. Besides convenience and aesthetic appearance the rack also saves space.
Of course, a simple frame with shelves can be installed in the basement, and this will be enough, but to decorate home interior, you have to try. In rooms with high humidity(in the basement, garage) the use of metal will be more rational and practical, and wood is better used in dry rooms. Even when treated with an antiseptic, wood will not withstand for a long time in conditions of constant dampness. Preference is given to natural wood(pine, mahogany, oak), laminated chipboard, OSB and plywood are suitable.
Chipboard rack with dimensions 
Photo of a rack made of OSB boards Rack dimensions depend on its purpose, design - on desires home master... Convenient when the structure is erected to the ceiling: the storage area increases and it will be possible to attach the rack to the ceiling for greater stability and reliability.
For "weighty" items: books, dishes, jars of pickles, the optimal shelf depth is 25 cm, for light items - up to 50 cm. You should not make the shelves wider, as it will be difficult to reach the items placed against the wall. The length of the shelves also depends on the load: for light items, they can be made up to 1.5 m, and for storing heavy items, you will have to limit yourself to 90 cm, otherwise the shelves may bend or even break.
Rack drawing with approximate dimensions You will definitely need a drawing in order to beautifully and correctly plan the position of the shelves, taking into account the weight of the items that will be laid out on the shelves. The distance between them is from 30 to 60 cm; the lower shelf can be made higher if bulky items will be stored there. The top shelves are for boxes of light items.
Scheme of making a room rack for aquariums The simplest standard rack consists only of shelves and side racks; it has no side and back walls.
Rack-lattices of various configurations are much more interesting: they also combine sizes that form original horizontal, vertical and diagonal weaves.
Pictured is a rack of water pipes Such racks can not only be installed on the floor, but also hung on the wall on hooks. Asymmetrical arrangement of shelves or partitions, their rounded and zigzag shapes turn the rack into bright element interior. But this is already work for experienced craftsmen... You can take under the rack and free place under the stairs leading to the second floor.
You can use the rack in any room, and if you attach the wheels, it can be easily moved around the room. The rack can be built into a niche, then the task of its construction is simplified to a minimum or rotating. It can also be supplemented with doors and hooks. If the lower shelves are made in the form of pull-out drawers, then they will become steps and will help you easily get to the upper shelves.
First of all, a solid foundation is built, for which a thick board is taken along the length of the future rack. Wooden racks are not widely pushed apart, their usual step is up to 60 cm, when using metal corners of 50x50 mm, it can be increased to 1 m.For a simple shelving, planed boards with a cross section of 5x5 cm will be the optimal material, for the manufacture of shelves - wooden planks, Chipboard or OSB board. The back wall is most often not made; if necessary, it is cut from a sheet of plywood.
Small wooden rack-rack with a reinforced shelf frame with a transverse bar First, a solid foundation is installed. The frame is fixed on self-tapping screws, the corners are reinforced with additional strips. When assembling, you need to use a level so that there are no distortions. The finished base is attached to the wall. The side walls are cut from chipboard, furniture board or plywood, cut out grooves in them with a milling cutter, install shelves in them and fix them with self-tapping screws. The thickness of the shelves must be at least 2.5 cm.
The rack assembled in this way is placed on the base and securely fixed. If plywood plates are drilled on the side walls and sewn with laminated chipboard, the rack will become much more attractive. You can also finish the front part, and decorate the top and bottom of the rack with a wooden figured plinth.
The structure is also easy to assemble: first, the frames are mounted, then with the help of a level they are aligned vertically and fixed to the wall. If the load is assumed to be impressive, then the rack is tied with a longitudinal profile, which will create the necessary rigidity belt. The size of an equal angle corner is 40x40 mm, if we take a square tubular profile, then with a section of 254x25, with a wall of 2 mm.
Various video instructions will help you to get acquainted with the process of creating different racks in more detail, where all stages of work are clearly demonstrated.
