Any heating system, except for an electric boiler, it burns fuel, so a chimney is indispensable. It is not always convenient to lead the chimney through the roof; sometimes it is more advisable to use a smoke exhaust system through the wall. In order for the chimney to work effectively, you need to choose the right pipes for the boiler, correctly install the chimney through the wall, and, if necessary, insulate it.
The most popular brick chimneys in the past are gradually being phased out.
Steel sandwich pipes are widely recognized - they are relatively cheap, easy to install, have a smooth inner surface, and do not need additional insulation.
The device of such a chimney is a steel pipe, in which another pipe is fixed, with a diameter less than 20-60 mm, and between them there is a layer of thermal insulation made of basalt wool.
The design features of the pipe make the chimney from a sandwich pipe more convenient to use due to:
The use of the smoke exhaust method through the wall is most often determined by the convenience of work, and the appropriateness of the design:
However, this design is not without its drawbacks:
There are times when it is not possible to remove the chimney in the usual way - through the roof, and then you have to equip the chimney through the wall. In order for the functioning of the chimney to be as efficient as possible, it is necessary to select the most suitable pipes for the boiler, to carry out a high-quality installation of the chimney, and, if necessary, to insulate it.
Brick chimneys, which were once very popular, are losing their relevance and are increasingly being used today. These products are easy to install and cheap. Their surface is smooth; there is no need to insulate these pipes.
By carrying out a chimney outlet through the wall, you will receive the following advantages:
Chimney through the wall in wooden house
Despite the large number of advantages, the design also has disadvantages and must be taken into account:
Chimney device through the wall
Before proceeding directly with the installation, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures, including the calculation of the boiler power, determination of the optimal pipe diameter, as well as the thickness of the insulating layer.
It is very important that the value of the diameter inner pipe was not less than the diameter of the nozzle on the boiler. The boiler is selected based on the criterion of the heated volume, and only after that the constituent elements for the chimney are selected for it.
If the diameter of the pipe is greater than the diameter of the nozzle, then an adapter must be placed in the middle of them.
When installing pipes of a certain diameter, it is necessary to take into account the power indicators of the heater. So, for boilers with a capacity of up to 3.5 kW, the pipe diameter should be 8 cm, for equipment with a capacity of 3.5 to 5.2 kW, pipes with a diameter of 9-11 cm are needed, for products with a power of 5.2 kW - the diameter of the pipes must be greater than 11 cm.
The thickness must also be taken into account. heat-insulating layer. When working temperature conditions 250 ° C, as at gas boiler, the basalt layer should be at least 3 cm.
For wood and oil boilers with an operating temperature of 400 ° C - already 5 cm.
There are two ways to carry out the outlet of the chimney through the wall:
It is possible to assemble a sandwich pipe when installing the vertical part of the chimney in two variations - "by smoke" or "by condensate".
Chimney assembly "by smoke" and "by condensate"
Carrying out the installation of the chimney through the smoke, gas and combustion products move upward, but here you will have to face such a negative moment as the formation of condensate that accumulates in the chimney. This method has gained popularity in cases where the chimney is collected through the roof. Here, almost the entire pipe is located in the house, and not much condensation is formed.
Condensate installation is an installation method in which the pipe is directed upward with its expanded end.
With this assembly, the condensate simply flows down the pipe into the glass. The disadvantage of this method is that smoke can leak out if the joints are poorly sealed.
Condensate assembly is used when the chimney passes through the wall: in this case, the condensate is directed into the glass, and the smoke comes out of the joints on the street. This will not affect the well-being and health of the residents of the house.
In order for the functioning of the chimney to be as efficient as possible, during the installation process, it is necessary to observe a number of rules and recommendations on which not only the performance of the installation, but also safety will depend.
Basic requirements for installing a chimney through a wall:
As already noted, the most the best option chimney is the use of a sandwich pipe, which is not only easy to install, it also does not require additional insulation.
If it is used for smoke extraction, then you need to mount it in a box, where the distance between the walls of the box and the pipe is filled with a basalt heat insulator. Also, foil or other non-combustible material can be used as insulation, but the pipe must be covered with a dense layer of heat-insulating non-combustible material on top.
Summing up all of the above, it is worth saying that it is quite simple to install a chimney through a wall. If you strictly follow the installation technology, then this procedure will not take much of your time and effort, but heater will delight you with work efficiency and good traction.
A modern man is a very thermophilic creature, and cannot exist in a house without heating. A chimney heat generator is the most difficult and potentially dangerous engineering system... The chimney is a rather bulky and complex structure, and if the stove or fireplace is located against the outer wall of the house, then the most practical option is to install the chimney through the wall.
We welcome our regular reader and offer him information on how to do it yourself at home.
A chimney is a vertically located structure with a cavity inside, through which hot products of fuel combustion are discharged into the atmosphere. In fact, this is a box made of non-combustible material (brick, metal, ceramics, asbestos cement, concrete), which serves to drain upwards from the combustion chamber (firebox) flue gas under the influence of traction.
The chimney is needed to remove waste products of combustion outside the home. Smoke poses a considerable danger to humans:
The health and even the life of you and your household depends on how the device is correctly made and quality materials are selected.
The principle of operation of the chimney is based on the tendency of hot combustion products to rise upward. Hot gases expand, their density decreases and they tend to "float" into a higher layer of the atmosphere with the same density. When the waste products of combustion rise in the furnace, a vacuum is formed and fresh air is sucked in. The thrust provides a continuous supply of oxygen to the fuel.
Traction is influenced by many factors:
Traditional brick chimney differs in design from modern chimneys, assembled from prefabricated elements.
A familiar brick chimney has the following parts:
Sandwich pipes consist of two layers of metal and insulation between them. Ceramic chimneys assembled from an external expanded clay concrete frame, an internal prefabricated ceramic box and a layer of insulation between them.
Modern chimneys are not installed without deflectors - they increase the draft and protect the chimney from atmospheric precipitation.
Structurally, chimneys installed outside the building near the wall are:
According to the material of manufacture, chimneys are:
Self-erection of a beautiful flat free-standing brick pipe is difficult - you need the skills of a qualified bricklayer. Asbestos-cement products are fragile, they do not produce component parts (with hatches, tees, bends, modules for collecting condensate), they are destroyed under the influence of condensate and require insulation. Steel single-layer pipes require insulation - and it is impossible to insulate a monotube as well as a sandwich or factory-made ceramics on your own. The aesthetic qualities of insulated steel or asbestos-cement structures also leave much to be desired.
Any chimney can be led out through the wall. In practice, the choice of chimneys mounted outside the building comes down to ceramics, sandwich and brick structures.
Lead the chimney through wooden wall when using modern pass-through nodes, it is also not very difficult.
Advantages:
Disadvantages:
The service life of chimneys depends on the structures and materials from which they are made.
The ceramic chimney will last up to 40 years. Manufacturers declare 50 years or more, but so far no one has checked. Brick can stand even longer, but stainless steel liners will have to be changed after 15-20 years. The service life of the liner primarily depends on the thickness and grade of steel. The thickness of the steel of the liner should not be less than 0.8-1.0 mm. Galvanizing won't last long.
Sandwich good quality will stand for 15-20 years and even more. The service life depends on the material and thickness of the inner liner - a good stainless steel inner liner with a thickness of 1 mm will last 20 years. Enamelled insert made of carbon ("black") steel - 15 years.
The service life of the liner depends on the type of heating unit (more precisely, on the type of fuel and the temperature of heating the exhaust gases). The shortest service lives are for chimneys for fireplaces and coal-fired boilers, which emit very hot gases at the time of strong combustion. Slightly longer service life for chimneys from boilers and fireplaces on peat, briquettes and wood. Chimneys for pellet and gas boilers will last the longest.
You can only do brick chimney or a construction made of insulated single-layer steel pipe... But laying even and beautiful walls of a brick pipe is more difficult than laying just a brick wall, and you must have the skills of an experienced bricklayer. Single-layer pipes will have to be insulated, the quality of self-insulation is much worse than that of finished factory-made pipes.
You can independently mount a chimney made of ceramics and sandwich pipes. It is impossible to make elements of such chimneys on your own - but the industry produces many modules that allow you to assemble a pipeline of any design.
The question of whether to mount the pipe yourself or hire a team of professionals is quite difficult. Installation of a chimney is a rather difficult job, and it is worth considering and carefully assessing your capabilities: is it possible to take prefabricated scaffolding or scaffolding of the appropriate height, will you have assistants, do you have the skills to install building structures, how do you react to the height.
Chimneys are designed and installed in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 “SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning ".
Chimneys must meet the following requirements:
The distance between the outer surface of brick or any other chimneys (with insulation) and wall structures, roof ceilings must be at least 130 mm. The distance from the structures to the wooden wall must be at least 260 mm.
If chimney in the area of the roof overhang, it passes close to rafters, battens and other combustible materials; the passage must be insulated with non-combustible materials.
The chimney of solid fuel, wood and peat heating devices must necessarily have a mesh spark arrester with a cell no larger than 5 × 5 mm if the roof is covered with combustible materials (bituminous tiles, roofing material, ondulin) or leaves fall on it. When installing a chimney in a wooden house, it is imperative to install a spark arrestor.
The height of the hog is the main parameter that determines the traction force.
Other factors affecting traction:
The diameter of the inner channel of the chimney must necessarily coincide with the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe (information from the heat generator's passport).
In SP 7.13130.2013 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Requirements fire safety»The dimensions of the section of the inner channel are given depending on the power of the heat generator:
In real conditions, we usually purchase ready-made heating boilers made of sufficient quality and safe. The chimney is the most dangerous part of the heating system, because the health and even the life of household members depends on its work. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly comply with all the requirements of regulations for the installation of chimneys - this guarantees the safety of your home and your family.
If you plan to install the chimney yourself, then it is best to use a practical, lightweight and easy-to-install sandwich pipe made of ready-made, high-quality factory-made elements. Its only serious drawback is its high cost. But you can save money by spending assembly work on one's own. Simple installation can guarantee you a safe flue gas discharge device from the heating unit.
The most important rules for the construction of chimneys:
Do-it-yourself installation of chimneys is quite possible subject to the requirements regulatory documents outlined above. Of course, this is not a job for a beginner, but if you live in a private house, then willy-nilly you will have to learn repair and installation work.
Before starting the installation and purchasing materials, it is necessary to draw a drawing or at least a diagram, carefully think over all the nuances and regulatory requirements for the arrangement of elements, and determine the number and composition of the necessary components.
The length of the pipe is calculated taking into account regulatory requirements and the height of the roof (see above), but it should not be less than 5 m.It should be borne in mind that the higher the chimney, the greater the thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be, otherwise the cooling of the exhaust gases will lead to a decrease and even overturn of the draft ...
The diameter is taken in accordance with the heat generator passport. If the diameter of the outlet pipe of the boiler is non-standard, then the nearest larger pipe diameter is selected. When installing a homemade or brick pipe, the diameter must comply with the standards (see above).
There are different types walls - front and side. The side wall is located on the side of the roof slopes and under the eaves of the roof, water is poured onto it from the roof (or there are gutters on it). Above the frontal one there is a small ledge of the roof, water from the roof does not get on it.
The ideal option for the exit of the chimney from the sandwich pipes through the wall is through the front wall and in such a way that there are no windows, balconies and other obstacles that will have to bend around vertically from above. The option when the chimney is laid along the side wall is worse - it will be necessary to carry out structures through the roof overhang and pile up the drainage system around (water pouring onto the chimney from the roof slope reduces the life of the sandwich sleeve, especially galvanized one, can lead to wetting / freezing of the insulation, increase in thermal conductivity sandwich, reduce traction; heating and even sunbathing of the wall of the house). Any bending around windows and other obstacles will reduce traction in the hog. But sometimes you can step back from the wall, go around the roof overhang and not make a passage through the overhang structures:
Is not the best way sandwich setting.
Begin the installation of pipes by marking the place of passage through the wall. A horizontal monotube without insulation is always attached to the nozzle of the heat generator - the temperature of the exhaust gases in this place is high, the insulation will simply be sintered and will deform the pipe. The length of the horizontal part should not exceed 1 m. Then the transition element is attached to the sandwich. During installation, the modules are simply inserted into one another. All joints of the elements are tightened with special crimping clamps. Then a passage is made through the wall, a tee is mounted (through it the condensate flows freely into the container), an element with a revision, an element with a container for collecting condensate, and a plug are attached.
Before leading the chimney through the wall, drill a hole in the wall. For this, powerful perforators with special nozzles of large diameters are used, which do not drill, but, as it were, cut out a piece of the wall. You can cut a hole in wooden walls.
So that every installer does not invent units and elements for the passage of the chimney through the wall, the designers have come up with a special pass-through unit. A special steel flange is installed on the wall with a pipe or box inside the wall - first, the outer part, a pipe is drawn through it, the distances are measured so that the pipe runs strictly horizontally and in the center of the pipe, the pipe is fixed. The outer flange is fastened, the space between the branch pipe and the wall is filled with insulation. Then the inner flange is attached. The flange is sealed on the outside (and inside as well) along the perimeter with a heat-resistant sealant. Insulation with a sealant from the street side must also be waterproof - so that precipitation does not fall into the gap and insulation, and does not cause the wall to lock and rot the wood.
The flange shape - round or square - is of no fundamental importance.
The chimney should be fixed to the walls using standard clamps and brackets for attaching sandwich structures. The optimum distance between the fasteners is at least 500 mm. The lower part of the pipe must be installed on a sturdy bracket fixed to the wall or on a stand.
If the chimney rises above the roof slope by more than 1 m, it is necessary to secure the structure with guy wires; if it is more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to provide additional fasteners - for example, a strong rod securely fixed to the wall. The pipe is attached to the bar using all the same clamps. The sandwich pipe itself, assembled from thin steel modules, does not have the necessary rigidity and strength and can bend and even collapse in strong winds.
The joints of the elements are sealed by applying a heat-resistant sealant to both abutting surfaces. It is better to use a silicate sealant to seal the joints - it can withstand temperatures up to 850 ° C and above. For sealing the flange and ebb - silicone sealant withstanding up to 250 ° C.
The main stages of the process of installing an external chimney with a pipe through the wall are shown in our video:
The most serious mistakes during the installation of sandwich pipes are installation at a short distance from the wall, the lack of insulation at the place where the sandwich pipes pass through the wall, and the assembly of elements through smoke. Chimney in the wall wooden house requires particularly careful insulation of the space between the pipe and the wall.
It is important during installation to control that there is a sufficient amount of insulation at the junction of the pipes - poor insulation will lead to heating of the outer part of the pipe with all dangerous consequences. The joints should not be located in the place where the pipe passes through the wall and the overhang of the roof.
It is also important to securely and strictly vertically fasten the structure. Particular attention should be paid to the fixings for the chimney to the wall if the wall surface is insulated with expanded polystyrene or mineral wool - the dowels should be long enough and go into supporting structure(not in plaster!) walls not less than 60 mm.
If the pipe passes through the side overhang of the roof, be sure to install an ebb so that precipitation from the slope does not fall on the sandwich (they can wet the insulation). On the front facade, it is also worth covering the place where the pipe passes through the ledge of the roof covering with ebbs (although in this case, the pipe often passes without touching the covering).
A direct path to fire.
The chimney outside the building should be collected by condensation. If collected through smoke, condensate can get inside the sleeve, wet the insulation - the pipe will be poorly insulated (the liquid conducts heat well), the outer sleeve will heat up, heat up the wall structures, which can lead to a fire. In addition, freezing of the liquid can damage the pipes, and the acid in the condensate can cause the inner stainless steel liner to burn out faster. At the same time, a small smoke leak in the open air is quite safe, and a large one is clearly visible and can be eliminated by additionally smearing the pipe joint with a sealant.
In no case should the diameter of the chimney hole be reduced - this will lead to a decrease or stop of the draft.
It is necessary to regularly (2 times a year) clean the chimney from soot, the head - from frozen condensation, ice and snow.
The sandwich pipe is already well insulated and does not need additional insulation. An exception is the place where the pipe passes through a wall or partitions. For this, different insulation materials are used, fireproof, if possible. Glass wool with a low melting point cannot be used for chimneys; basalt wool cannot be used for coal boilers.
The place where the pipe passes through the wall (sometimes through the wooden structure of the roof overhang) must be insulated with basalt or ceramic wool, foamed vermiculite, and asbestos.
Do not think that asbestos is super harmful - finished products do not generate dust and do not emit harmful substances, and the asbestos itself will be closed and isolated from the room with a flange.
The peculiarity of wooden walls is their flammability. Therefore, installing a chimney in a wooden house is more difficult than in a stone one. When removing the chimney through a wooden wall, it is necessary to very strictly maintain the distance from the wall to the pipe (at least 260 mm) and to perform high-quality thermal insulation of the passage through the wall. It is also important to pay attention to the treatment of the walls with an antipyretic.
The device of a chimney in a wooden house requires insulation of the wall surface near the outlet of the heat generator and the first mounted monotube. Insulation is performed with non-combustible materials - plaster, tiles (porcelain stoneware), stone, fiber cement sheets, a sheet of metal with an asbestos sheet attached.
Brick and concrete are fire resistant - this is a big plus. Nevertheless, insulation at the place of the pipe passage is mandatory, the distance to the wall is at least 130 mm. The rules for installing chimneys were invented for the safety of people, and they should be followed in any case.
Often, a chimney through a wall has to be installed in cases where the structure has already been built and an external channel needs to be installed. To do this, you need to correctly calculate all the nuances, take into account the level of inclination, the peculiarity of the design and material itself, and, of course, provide for the possibility of installing all kinds of boilers. In addition, an important aspect of the correct functioning of the chimney through the wall is the correct and consistent operating procedure, which is contained in the corresponding documentation.
So, how to bring the chimney through the wall, what features do you need to know and what to look for first of all? Consider not only the passage through the wall, but also the exit of the chimney upward. That is optimal height for any type of chimney construction it must correspond to 5 - 10 meters. The use of a smaller duct in a 100% guarantee gives poor draft, and accordingly problems with flue gas emission. By the way, it is not recommended to overestimate the channel height too much, above 10 meters will already be accompanied by excessive combustion and high fuel consumption.
Considering that with time of use, you will definitely need to clean the channel from soot, it is often round pipes from expanded clay or metal. And the installation of such structures is much easier, especially if we take into account modern offers like a two-channel or two-layer pipe. It is a ready-made structure that does not require insulation and additional sealing.
This type of design has proven its practicality and optimality, it does not form condensation and negative deposits. Besides outer walls do not heat up to prohibitive temperatures, therefore, a fairly serious fire situation is maintained.
When removing the chimney through the wall, you can note the appearance of some positive aspects in this design:
Disadvantages, including the installation of a sandwich chimney:
When carrying out the work on installing your chimney through the wall, you need to remember important rules and installation steps. You should adhere to the sequence so as not to forget anything and to do everything right. So, install the chimney, steps:
After erecting the entire vertical part, you need to know how to install the head, the so-called cone-shaped cover, which will improve traction and protect the channel from clogging. Depending on the type of channel, you will need to insulate and insulate the space between the wall and the pipe.
When installing a chimney through a wall in a wooden house, you need to remember about the high fire hazard of this material. When passing the chimney through a wooden wall, you need to take additional care of insulation, for example, you can use fire-resistant bricks, asbestos. V frame house the situation is similar. To understand the whole process visually, we demonstrate how to correctly lead the chimney through the wall in a wooden house with a diagram.
By the way, the arrangement of good insulation is allowed to avoid damage to the wood, because the fibers dry out from heating. Starting to think over the removal of the chimney through a wooden wall, think over which structure you will use. All specialists recommend the installation of three-layer systems, they are equipped with their own thermal insulation, which practically does not allow heating external parts channel.
By the way, to the specifics of the installation specifically for wooden buildings, it is possible to attribute the obligation to form a perfectly vertical channel, without bends. When making a chimney, do not forget about installing dampers, they will help to cope with excessive draft and allow you to regulate the flow.
An important point, now many people use siding as a decoration for wooden houses. So, the use of siding implies a distance of more than 150 mm from the wall to the chimney. This is due to the fact that the fire material is dangerous and its temperature range is equal to minimum value only 50 degrees.
The passage of any chimney through the wall is a responsible occupation, it is important to correctly calculate all the nuances. The outlet of the chimney through the wall should be done only in the place where there are no communications. In addition, the specifics of wall mounting include the installation of a reliable branching system. Sharp corners are not allowed, they lead to the formation of vortices, which will negatively affect the performance of the system.
It is necessary to carry out the installation starting from the heat source, that is, from the connection of the pipe and the boiler. Next, we go directly to the fastening of the partition, the installation of the chimney fastening on the wall. It is not advised to use do-it-yourself fasteners.
Previously, draw a passage in the wall, mark the attachment point on outside wall... Be sure to make the correct pass-through knot as described above. Pay special attention to wooden houses. How to properly bring out into the street through brick wall watch the tutorial videos, but remember that there is always one feature. It is necessary to carefully insulate the place, as well as carry out high-quality thermal insulation, in order to avoid a fire.
After wiring through the wall, we attach the pipe to the brackets pre-installed on the wall. After being brought to the roof, the pipe is additionally attached with special braces, provided that the height is much higher than the ridge of the roof.
Of all types of boiler equipment, perhaps only electric ones do not need a device for removing fuel combustion products - chimneys. A person, based on many years of experience in construction, has learned how to remove smoke using various forms of structures that can be made from natural stone, brick, sheet metal.
Recently wide use got multilayer sandwich chimneys. Their design is extremely simple. A heat-insulating material is applied to a pipe made of stainless steel, as a rule, this is mineral wool made of basalt. It, in turn, is closed with another pipe, which can be made of corrosion-resistant steel or galvanized sheet. At the end of the pipes, locks are made that allow the installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through walls or roofs without any particular difficulties.
Thus, the homeowner, how to install a chimney, may well collect the exhaust system on his own, without resorting to the costly services of third-party specialists. But, at the same time, he must know how to properly lay the chimney and some more rules that will protect his home from fire in the future due to improper assembly or operation of this structure.
Fuel combustion products have a high saturation of chemically aggressive substances. The temperature difference, the presence of moisture inside the sandwich pipe creates the prerequisites for the activation of corrosion processes. The minimization of corrosion processes is eliminated by the use of stainless steel. But, in all fairness, it should be noted that the use of this rather expensive material does not remove all the problems associated with the use of metal in chimney structures.
The stainless steel sandwich guarantees rapid cooling of the combustion waste, especially in those areas of the chimney located in open areas. A drop in temperature leads to a decrease in thrust. In addition, the temperature difference leads to the formation of condensation. Its presence on the pipe surface creates conditions for the formation of soot layers and the growth of corrosion.
The use of metal in the initial sections of the outgoing sandwich pipe, especially near the boiler or furnace, leads to the fact that the pipe heats up to dangerous ambient temperatures. Touching such a pipe is fraught with burns, and building structures are under constant threat of fire. That is, when installing a sandwich pipe in a bath, it is necessary to take measures to eliminate this threat.
The use of such pipes to create systems for the removal of combustion products made it possible to solve most of the above problems and allows you to install a sandwich chimney with your own hands.
Among the properties inherent in sandwich panel chimneys, there are some indisputable advantages:
At the same time, the consumer should understand that the cost of a stainless steel chimney exceeds the price of a similar structure made of galvanized material. Another drawback that can manifest itself in the presence of installation errors or violations of assembly technology is the loss of tightness. Another reason why the chimney can lose its tightness is the result of long-term operation.
Manufacturers engaged in the production of stainless steel pipes complete their products with fasteners that are necessary for their installation. Therefore, when purchasing a kit, it is advisable to check their availability.
Installation of sandwich pipes may require some Additional materials and tools, among them are:
Installation work must be carried out taking into account some technological subtleties. For example, the final assembly diagram of a chimney sandwich should take into account, then, most of structures must pass indoors. This will reduce heat losses during the heating season. In the process of developing a scheme for a gas exhaust system, it is necessary to take into account the fact that horizontal sections should not exceed one meter in length.
In addition, there are selection tables on the basis of which you can select the diameter of the pipeline.
Table 1.
By the way, when making an independent calculation, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the thickness of thermal insulation is directly related to the power of the boiler or furnace equipment. So, for a boiler with a power of 0.6 kW, insulation with a thickness of 25 mm is required. The higher the power, the higher the power, the thicker the thermal insulation.
Data on the applicability of pipes should be indicated in the instruction manual or operation.
Another task that needs to be solved when drawing up a scheme is to ensure fire safety, that is, pipes should not be interfaced with other engineering communications, especially for gas communications. In addition, it is necessary to place sections of the chimney at a certain distance from wooden structures... Special shaped steel brackets must be used to fix the structure. The minimum step for installing fasteners for installing the pipeline should be at least 1 meter.
When designing a structure, it is necessary to equip an inspection door through which the structure will be inspected and cleaned from soot.
Installation of this structure should be done without flaws. Most often, mistakes and defects in the installation of the pipeline are made for the reasons:
No one will argue with the fact that installing a chimney sandwich with your own hands can reduce the cost of home improvement. But, nevertheless, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.
Despite the external simplicity of installation, you need to know that the price directly depends on the method of performing the work. It can be performed "by smoke" or "by condensation". When choosing the first method, it will be necessary to use tees through which condensate will be discharged. With the second variant of assembly and installation, additional components are not required.
We must always remember that the installation of a chimney sandwich is a very important and responsible procedure. And if, nevertheless, the homeowner decided to independently assemble and install a chimney from a sandwich pipe, then he should be aware of the full extent of responsibility for this detail.
The outlet of the chimney through the wall is performed if the work is performed in an already erected building. In this case, the chimney will pass through outside wall the building and the homeowner should take measures to protect the wall from the effects of the temperature emanating from the chimney.
When constructing a new house, the chimney system is carried out inside the building, in this case heat losses are minimized.
When deciding to install a pipe through a blockhouse, it is necessary to realize that it will have to be insulated using materials such as basalt wool, asbestos or bricks. This operation must be carried out in accordance with fire safety requirements. This approach will minimize the cost of its maintenance with a long service life.
The purchased chimney pipe must comply with the diagram developed before installation. The length of the chimney must also correspond to the calculated data. Too low a height will create problems with traction, soot will constantly get into the room where the heater is installed, which occurs during the combustion process, too long, on the contrary, will cause accelerated combustion of the fuel, and as a result, additional heat will be released into the atmosphere.
Important! Experts note that the length of the gas removal system should be within the range from 5 to 10 meters.
The kit of the chimney to be purchased, in addition to the standard fasteners, should include elbows, tees and, of course, pipes.
In fact, the arrangement of a transition through a wall or through a roof can be done even at the design stage. That is, the designer has every opportunity to include in the documentation the chimney transition unit through the wall. At the same time, he must and will be guided by the requirements of GOST, SNiP and SP on fire safety. This way, the homeowner can be confident that the site will be completely safe.
When making a transition through a wall, it is necessary to take into account that there should not be engineering structures near the pipe that are not protected from the effects of heat. The minimum distance to them should be about 400 mm. If it is not possible to provide this distance, then it is necessary to take measures for additional insulation of the pipe.
Before laying a chimney through a wall assembled from a log or bar, it is necessary to prepare a hole. If the building is just being built, then, directly when assembling the crowns of a log house, using a gas or electric saw, cut a piece of a log or a bar in the laid crown. Its size must be larger than the diameter of the chimney.
If a decision is made to pass the wall using a round hole, then before starting to manufacture it, it makes sense to drill a center hole, its presence will allow drilling with core drills or ballerinas.
Note: When arranging a wall crossing frame-panel house it makes sense to pre-drill and then mark out. The hole can be obtained using a ballerina or an electric jigsaw.
The passage through the wall of a building built of logs is performed in the following ways:
For arranging a passage through a wall built of bricks or blocks, with different fillers... Before you carry out its penetration, it is necessary to carry out a markup. For these purposes, it is advisable to use a laser measuring instrument. In this case, errors will be minimized. When making a hole, remember that such deformation of the load-bearing wall can lead to cracks. Therefore, builders must provide measures to prevent their formation, for example, install a pre-prepared frame in it, which will prevent subsidence of the wall structure.
The space around the pipe must be filled with refractory material. At the inlet and outlet of the pipe, it is necessary to install shields that cover the transition. This shield can be made in several modifications, for example, it can be made of an asbestos sheet and a sheet of stainless or galvanized steel fixed to it from above.
Subsequently, the chimney can be assembled as the children's designer... After the wall has been passed, work begins on fixing the chimney to the wall.
The homeowner, assembling the chimney from the sandwich pipes with his own hands, must understand that the assembly of the gas exhaust system is a very responsible event and the safety of the building structure and the residents living in it largely depends on it.