House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» How to choose the right chimney and install it yourself. How to lead the pipe from the stove through the wall? Chimney wall chimney

How to choose the right chimney and install it yourself. How to lead the pipe from the stove through the wall? Chimney wall chimney

Any heating system, except for an electric boiler, it burns fuel, so a chimney is indispensable. It is not always convenient to lead the chimney through the roof; sometimes it is more advisable to use a smoke exhaust system through the wall. In order for the chimney to work effectively, you need to choose the right pipes for the boiler, correctly install the chimney through the wall, and, if necessary, insulate it.

The most popular brick chimneys in the past are gradually being phased out.

Steel sandwich pipes are widely recognized - they are relatively cheap, easy to install, have a smooth inner surface, and do not need additional insulation.

The device of such a chimney is a steel pipe, in which another pipe is fixed, with a diameter less than 20-60 mm, and between them there is a layer of thermal insulation made of basalt wool.

The design features of the pipe make the chimney from a sandwich pipe more convenient to use due to:

  • fire safety;
  • thermal insulation of pipes, which in the cold season prevents the formation of condensation in them;
  • ease of maintenance: pipes need to be cleaned much less often than brick structures - the walls of sandwich pipes are smoother than bricks, which not only prevents deposits from accumulating on the pipe walls, but also improves traction.

Pros and cons of external smoke exhaust through the wall

The use of the smoke exhaust method through the wall is most often determined by the convenience of work, and the appropriateness of the design:

  • almost the entire chimney goes outside, and does not go through the whole house;
  • installation can be done both at the very stage of construction, and after the construction of the house, for example, when installing a heating system;
  • there is no need to make holes in the ceilings if the boiler is located on the first floor of a two-three-story building;
  • the roof remains intact;
  • the chimney through the wall is easy to assemble and install.

However, this design is not without its drawbacks:

  • the need to insulate the part of the chimney located on the street;
  • since the structure cannot be completely vertical, its efficiency is reduced compared to the one brought vertically through the roof. Based on this, it is necessary to think over the scheme so that the chimney, on the one hand, harmoniously fits into the situation, and on the other, has a minimum number of knees and turns.

There are times when it is not possible to remove the chimney in the usual way - through the roof, and then you have to equip the chimney through the wall. In order for the functioning of the chimney to be as efficient as possible, it is necessary to select the most suitable pipes for the boiler, to carry out a high-quality installation of the chimney, and, if necessary, to insulate it.

Brick chimneys, which were once very popular, are losing their relevance and are increasingly being used today. These products are easy to install and cheap. Their surface is smooth; there is no need to insulate these pipes.

Advantages and disadvantages of chimney through the wall

By carrying out a chimney outlet through the wall, you will receive the following advantages:

  • the chimney protrudes almost completely into the street, and does not go through the whole house;
  • you can perform installation of the product both at the very stage of construction, and after the house is erected, for example, during installation heating system;
  • you do not have to make holes in the ceilings when the boiler is located on the first floor of a building, several floors high;
  • the integrity of the roof is preserved;
  • when assembling and installing the chimney through the wall, there will be no particular difficulties.

Chimney through the wall in wooden house

Despite the large number of advantages, the design also has disadvantages and must be taken into account:

  1. A prerequisite for installing a chimney through the wall is.
  2. Inside or outside the house, a sufficiently large horizontal section will need to be allocated for such a chimney.
  3. According to experts, the external gas outlet pipe has low productivity.
  4. It is unlikely that the product will fit the design of the room, so you have to get confused here.

Chimney device through the wall

Installation

Before proceeding directly with the installation, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures, including the calculation of the boiler power, determination of the optimal pipe diameter, as well as the thickness of the insulating layer.

It is very important that the value of the diameter inner pipe was not less than the diameter of the nozzle on the boiler. The boiler is selected based on the criterion of the heated volume, and only after that the constituent elements for the chimney are selected for it.

If the diameter of the pipe is greater than the diameter of the nozzle, then an adapter must be placed in the middle of them.

When installing pipes of a certain diameter, it is necessary to take into account the power indicators of the heater. So, for boilers with a capacity of up to 3.5 kW, the pipe diameter should be 8 cm, for equipment with a capacity of 3.5 to 5.2 kW, pipes with a diameter of 9-11 cm are needed, for products with a power of 5.2 kW - the diameter of the pipes must be greater than 11 cm.

The thickness must also be taken into account. heat-insulating layer. When working temperature conditions 250 ° C, as at gas boiler, the basalt layer should be at least 3 cm.

For wood and oil boilers with an operating temperature of 400 ° C - already 5 cm.

Chimney installation

There are two ways to carry out the outlet of the chimney through the wall:

  1. Pipes inside the room must be raised a short distance from the ceiling, where they are brought out to the street.
  2. From the boiler nozzle, pipes immediately run horizontally through the wall. The advantage of this method is that fewer elbows are formed, and this has a positive effect on the performance of the chimney.

It is possible to assemble a sandwich pipe when installing the vertical part of the chimney in two variations - "by smoke" or "by condensate".

Chimney assembly "by smoke" and "by condensate"

Carrying out the installation of the chimney through the smoke, gas and combustion products move upward, but here you will have to face such a negative moment as the formation of condensate that accumulates in the chimney. This method has gained popularity in cases where the chimney is collected through the roof. Here, almost the entire pipe is located in the house, and not much condensation is formed.

Condensate installation is an installation method in which the pipe is directed upward with its expanded end.

With this assembly, the condensate simply flows down the pipe into the glass. The disadvantage of this method is that smoke can leak out if the joints are poorly sealed.

Condensate assembly is used when the chimney passes through the wall: in this case, the condensate is directed into the glass, and the smoke comes out of the joints on the street. This will not affect the well-being and health of the residents of the house.

Basic installation rules

In order for the functioning of the chimney to be as efficient as possible, during the installation process, it is necessary to observe a number of rules and recommendations on which not only the performance of the installation, but also safety will depend.

Basic requirements for installing a chimney through a wall:

  1. It is important that the pipe rises above the ridge, at least 50 cm, and preferably 100 cm. The traction force depends on this. The traction force directly depends on this.
  2. The total length of the vertical part of the pipe should ideally be 5-10 meters, if the pipe is at a greater distance, then the thrust will be too strong and the fuel will burn out very quickly. If the length of the pipe is not enough, then the thrust, on the contrary, will be weak, and, accordingly, the operation of the heater will not be very effective.
  3. To prevent the heat insulator from melting, the first chimney segment must consist of a single-circuit pipe. It is necessary to make a joint with the sandwich pipe, while maintaining a distance sufficient to prevent overheating of the fasteners during operation.
  4. The boiler must be placed on a sheet of metal. Insulating the wall from the boiler is done in the same way. For wooden houses, according to SNiP, it is necessary that the boiler and chimney be located at a distance of at least 45 cm from building elements that can catch fire, and 25 cm from parts made of low-combustible materials. So that the outlet for the pipe is not too large, the wood must be sheathed with metal, in which case the outlet may not be 45, but 25 cm.
  5. A metal box must be placed in the finished hole through which the pipe is passed, and without any connections, because, if necessary, access to them will be very difficult. The cavities in the wall must be filled with heat-insulating material, which is not afraid of combustion.
  6. Next, it is necessary to sew up the pipe hole from the outside and from the inside. For this, a metal sheet is used.
  7. Then, using brackets, you need to fix the support platform for the chimney outside the building, and a tee should be placed on the outlet section of the pipe. The bottom of the pipe is removable, it has the shape of a glass and condensate, which forms during the combustion of fuel, gets into it. Often, the glass is equipped with a tap and a drain hose. Condensate is toxic, so it is best to drain it away from home.
  8. The chimney at the top is also attached by means of brackets, which are located at a distance of no more than a meter from one another. To protect against precipitation, a cap is put on top of the pipe.
  9. For high-quality sealing of the joints, they must be coated with a heat-resistant sealant, after which the joint section must be tightened with a clamp.

Insulation of the external chimney

As already noted, the most the best option chimney is the use of a sandwich pipe, which is not only easy to install, it also does not require additional insulation.

If it is used for smoke extraction, then you need to mount it in a box, where the distance between the walls of the box and the pipe is filled with a basalt heat insulator. Also, foil or other non-combustible material can be used as insulation, but the pipe must be covered with a dense layer of heat-insulating non-combustible material on top.

Summing up all of the above, it is worth saying that it is quite simple to install a chimney through a wall. If you strictly follow the installation technology, then this procedure will not take much of your time and effort, but heater will delight you with work efficiency and good traction.

A modern man is a very thermophilic creature, and cannot exist in a house without heating. A chimney heat generator is the most difficult and potentially dangerous engineering system... The chimney is a rather bulky and complex structure, and if the stove or fireplace is located against the outer wall of the house, then the most practical option is to install the chimney through the wall.

We welcome our regular reader and offer him information on how to do it yourself at home.

A chimney is a vertically located structure with a cavity inside, through which hot products of fuel combustion are discharged into the atmosphere. In fact, this is a box made of non-combustible material (brick, metal, ceramics, asbestos cement, concrete), which serves to drain upwards from the combustion chamber (firebox) flue gas under the influence of traction.

The chimney is needed to remove waste products of combustion outside the home. Smoke poses a considerable danger to humans:

  • Waste gases contain carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide, which are toxic to humans.
  • The smoke contains oxides of sulfur, nitrogen and some other elements; when oxides combine with water vapor, aggressive and harmful acids are formed.
  • The smoke carries particles of soot, which, without exhausting the smoke, will settle into the room, on the ceiling, furniture, things and in the lungs of humans and animals.
  • Smoke contains a lot of water vapor generated by the combustion of hydrocarbons - the vapor will also condense on walls and windows and create high humidity, contribute to the formation of fungi and mold.
  • In addition, hot gases can cause a fire.

The health and even the life of you and your household depends on how the device is correctly made and quality materials are selected.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of the chimney is based on the tendency of hot combustion products to rise upward. Hot gases expand, their density decreases and they tend to "float" into a higher layer of the atmosphere with the same density. When the waste products of combustion rise in the furnace, a vacuum is formed and fresh air is sucked in. The thrust provides a continuous supply of oxygen to the fuel.

Traction is influenced by many factors:

  • Chimney height.
  • Sectional area of ​​the inner channel.
  • Insulation of the channel.
  • The location of the cap relative to the top of the roof (ridge).
  • Sufficient air supply.

How the chimney works

Traditional brick chimney differs in design from modern chimneys, assembled from prefabricated elements.

A familiar brick chimney has the following parts:

  • If necessary, a foundation.
  • The neck is used to connect to the furnace firebox.
  • Riser (box) with valves.
  • During modernization, a stainless steel insert is often inserted into a brick box.
  • Slope.
  • Otter - expansion brick walls over the roof, covering the gap in the roof from precipitation, leaves; a galvanized steel ebb is often attached to the otter.
  • At the place of passage through the roof structure - a neck.
  • Headband.
  • In recent decades, the top of the structure has been covered with a metal cap.

Sandwich pipes consist of two layers of metal and insulation between them. Ceramic chimneys assembled from an external expanded clay concrete frame, an internal prefabricated ceramic box and a layer of insulation between them.

Modern chimneys are not installed without deflectors - they increase the draft and protect the chimney from atmospheric precipitation.

Types and designs of external chimneys

Structurally, chimneys installed outside the building near the wall are:

  • Wall - mounted on the wall of the building.
  • Indigenous - are installed on a separate foundation near the building.

According to the material of manufacture, chimneys are:

  • Brick.
  • Steel single-layer (including modular).
  • From sandwich pipes.
  • Asbestos-cement.
  • Cement (used for industrial furnaces).

Self-erection of a beautiful flat free-standing brick pipe is difficult - you need the skills of a qualified bricklayer. Asbestos-cement products are fragile, they do not produce component parts (with hatches, tees, bends, modules for collecting condensate), they are destroyed under the influence of condensate and require insulation. Steel single-layer pipes require insulation - and it is impossible to insulate a monotube as well as a sandwich or factory-made ceramics on your own. The aesthetic qualities of insulated steel or asbestos-cement structures also leave much to be desired.

Which chimney can be taken out through the wall

Any chimney can be led out through the wall. In practice, the choice of chimneys mounted outside the building comes down to ceramics, sandwich and brick structures.

Lead the chimney through wooden wall when using modern pass-through nodes, it is also not very difficult.

Advantages and disadvantages of chimney outlet through the wall

Advantages:

  • The most important advantage of bringing the chimney through the wall to the street is the greater fire safety of the room with the heating unit and the building as a whole.
  • An external chimney is safer in terms of smoke from the part of the chimney facing the wall, leakage of exhaust gases and poisoning of residents with carbon monoxide or carbon dioxide.
  • Lack of holes in the roof, violations rafter system passing structures in the ceiling. Chimney passage through wooden floor always creates an additional fire hazard. The absence of holes in the roof sheathing and additional reinforcement of the rafters with a bar facilitates the work and strengthens the roof.
  • Saving space in the room, a bulky structure inside the room does not always fit well into the interior - the device of a chimney outside the building makes it possible to decorate a room with a stove or fireplace to your liking.
  • When modernizing a building, it is much easier and faster to install an external chimney than an internal one.
  • It is also much easier to repair and modernize outdoor structures.

Disadvantages:

  • A separate foundation is required for the ceramic chimney.
  • Sandwich pipes must be securely fastened, especially in the upper part - the structure, with its low weight, has a rather significant windage.
  • In many cases, water from the roof slope in the rain pours into the chimney, and in the place eaves it is necessary to install special ebbs or install additional storm gutters.
  • Chimney outlet through the wall with non-combustible materials.
  • Sometimes an outdoor chimney interferes with the overall design of a building. And sometimes it gives it color:

The service life of such a chimney

The service life of chimneys depends on the structures and materials from which they are made.

The ceramic chimney will last up to 40 years. Manufacturers declare 50 years or more, but so far no one has checked. Brick can stand even longer, but stainless steel liners will have to be changed after 15-20 years. The service life of the liner primarily depends on the thickness and grade of steel. The thickness of the steel of the liner should not be less than 0.8-1.0 mm. Galvanizing won't last long.

Sandwich good quality will stand for 15-20 years and even more. The service life depends on the material and thickness of the inner liner - a good stainless steel inner liner with a thickness of 1 mm will last 20 years. Enamelled insert made of carbon ("black") steel - 15 years.

The service life of the liner depends on the type of heating unit (more precisely, on the type of fuel and the temperature of heating the exhaust gases). The shortest service lives are for chimneys for fireplaces and coal-fired boilers, which emit very hot gases at the time of strong combustion. Slightly longer service life for chimneys from boilers and fireplaces on peat, briquettes and wood. Chimneys for pellet and gas boilers will last the longest.

Do it yourself or order?

You can only do brick chimney or a construction made of insulated single-layer steel pipe... But laying even and beautiful walls of a brick pipe is more difficult than laying just a brick wall, and you must have the skills of an experienced bricklayer. Single-layer pipes will have to be insulated, the quality of self-insulation is much worse than that of finished factory-made pipes.

You can independently mount a chimney made of ceramics and sandwich pipes. It is impossible to make elements of such chimneys on your own - but the industry produces many modules that allow you to assemble a pipeline of any design.

The question of whether to mount the pipe yourself or hire a team of professionals is quite difficult. Installation of a chimney is a rather difficult job, and it is worth considering and carefully assessing your capabilities: is it possible to take prefabricated scaffolding or scaffolding of the appropriate height, will you have assistants, do you have the skills to install building structures, how do you react to the height.

Building codes

Chimneys are designed and installed in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 “SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning ".

Chimneys must meet the following requirements:

  • The height from the mouth to the grate must be at least 5 meters.
  • The inner canal should not have narrowed areas.
  • Height above flat roof- not less than 0.5 m (preferably 1 m).
  • Head height with pitched roof:
  1. At a distance of less than 1.5 m from the ridge (parapet) - not lower than 0.5 m from the ridge.
  2. If the distance to the ridge is from 1.5-3 m - not lower than the level of the ridge.
  3. If the distance to the ridge is more than 3 m, the height should not be lower than a line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10 ° to the horizontal (downward from the horizontal).
  4. Calculations should take into account not only the height of the ridge closest to the chimney, but also the height of the tallest ridge of the building (or the highest part of the building).
  • Pipes can have inclined sections at an angle of at least 30 ° to the vertical, the amount of pipe displacement is not more than 1 m horizontally. The cross-sectional area of ​​inclined sections should not be less area sections of horizontal sections.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

The distance between the outer surface of brick or any other chimneys (with insulation) and wall structures, roof ceilings must be at least 130 mm. The distance from the structures to the wooden wall must be at least 260 mm.

If chimney in the area of ​​the roof overhang, it passes close to rafters, battens and other combustible materials; the passage must be insulated with non-combustible materials.

The chimney of solid fuel, wood and peat heating devices must necessarily have a mesh spark arrester with a cell no larger than 5 × 5 mm if the roof is covered with combustible materials (bituminous tiles, roofing material, ondulin) or leaves fall on it. When installing a chimney in a wooden house, it is imperative to install a spark arrestor.

Traction and height

The height of the hog is the main parameter that determines the traction force.

Other factors affecting traction:

  • Sufficient insulation of the pipeline.
  • The smoothness of the walls of the chimney.
  • The thickness of the soot layer on the walls.
  • The presence of a head or deflector (not interfering with the free exit of smoke).
  • Air supply to the firebox.
  • Closing the canal with valves frozen at the mouth of condensate or ice.
  • Correctly selected size of the inner section.

How to choose the diameter

The diameter of the inner channel of the chimney must necessarily coincide with the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe (information from the heat generator's passport).

In SP 7.13130.2013 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Requirements fire safety»The dimensions of the section of the inner channel are given depending on the power of the heat generator:

  • Up to 3.6 kW - 140 × 140 mm (diameter not less than 158 mm).
  • 3.5-5.2 kW - 140 × 200 mm (diameter not less than 189 mm).
  • 5.2-7.0 kW - 140 × 270 mm (diameter not less than 219 mm).

Rules and features of chimney installation

In real conditions, we usually purchase ready-made heating boilers made of sufficient quality and safe. The chimney is the most dangerous part of the heating system, because the health and even the life of household members depends on its work. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly comply with all the requirements of regulations for the installation of chimneys - this guarantees the safety of your home and your family.

If you plan to install the chimney yourself, then it is best to use a practical, lightweight and easy-to-install sandwich pipe made of ready-made, high-quality factory-made elements. Its only serious drawback is its high cost. But you can save money by spending assembly work on one's own. Simple installation can guarantee you a safe flue gas discharge device from the heating unit.

The most important rules for the construction of chimneys:

  • Correct selection of the inner diameter of the sandwich pipes.
  • Correct calculation of the chimney height.
  • Compliance with standard distances from the surface of the pipe to walls and other structures.
  • Sufficient insulation of the chimney.
  • High quality sealing.
  • Secure wall mounting.
  • Mandatory installation of a container for collecting condensate.
  • Assembly of elements by condensation (or use recently appeared modules, which are simultaneously assembled by smoke and condensation).

Do-it-yourself chimney installation

Do-it-yourself installation of chimneys is quite possible subject to the requirements regulatory documents outlined above. Of course, this is not a job for a beginner, but if you live in a private house, then willy-nilly you will have to learn repair and installation work.

Drawing and diagrams

Before starting the installation and purchasing materials, it is necessary to draw a drawing or at least a diagram, carefully think over all the nuances and regulatory requirements for the arrangement of elements, and determine the number and composition of the necessary components.

Sizing calculation

The length of the pipe is calculated taking into account regulatory requirements and the height of the roof (see above), but it should not be less than 5 m.It should be borne in mind that the higher the chimney, the greater the thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be, otherwise the cooling of the exhaust gases will lead to a decrease and even overturn of the draft ...

The diameter is taken in accordance with the heat generator passport. If the diameter of the outlet pipe of the boiler is non-standard, then the nearest larger pipe diameter is selected. When installing a homemade or brick pipe, the diameter must comply with the standards (see above).

We select the exit point through the wall

There are different types walls - front and side. The side wall is located on the side of the roof slopes and under the eaves of the roof, water is poured onto it from the roof (or there are gutters on it). Above the frontal one there is a small ledge of the roof, water from the roof does not get on it.

The ideal option for the exit of the chimney from the sandwich pipes through the wall is through the front wall and in such a way that there are no windows, balconies and other obstacles that will have to bend around vertically from above. The option when the chimney is laid along the side wall is worse - it will be necessary to carry out structures through the roof overhang and pile up the drainage system around (water pouring onto the chimney from the roof slope reduces the life of the sandwich sleeve, especially galvanized one, can lead to wetting / freezing of the insulation, increase in thermal conductivity sandwich, reduce traction; heating and even sunbathing of the wall of the house). Any bending around windows and other obstacles will reduce traction in the hog. But sometimes you can step back from the wall, go around the roof overhang and not make a passage through the overhang structures:

Is not the best way sandwich setting.

Step by step installation

Begin the installation of pipes by marking the place of passage through the wall. A horizontal monotube without insulation is always attached to the nozzle of the heat generator - the temperature of the exhaust gases in this place is high, the insulation will simply be sintered and will deform the pipe. The length of the horizontal part should not exceed 1 m. Then the transition element is attached to the sandwich. During installation, the modules are simply inserted into one another. All joints of the elements are tightened with special crimping clamps. Then a passage is made through the wall, a tee is mounted (through it the condensate flows freely into the container), an element with a revision, an element with a container for collecting condensate, and a plug are attached.

Hole device

Before leading the chimney through the wall, drill a hole in the wall. For this, powerful perforators with special nozzles of large diameters are used, which do not drill, but, as it were, cut out a piece of the wall. You can cut a hole in wooden walls.

So that every installer does not invent units and elements for the passage of the chimney through the wall, the designers have come up with a special pass-through unit. A special steel flange is installed on the wall with a pipe or box inside the wall - first, the outer part, a pipe is drawn through it, the distances are measured so that the pipe runs strictly horizontally and in the center of the pipe, the pipe is fixed. The outer flange is fastened, the space between the branch pipe and the wall is filled with insulation. Then the inner flange is attached. The flange is sealed on the outside (and inside as well) along the perimeter with a heat-resistant sealant. Insulation with a sealant from the street side must also be waterproof - so that precipitation does not fall into the gap and insulation, and does not cause the wall to lock and rot the wood.

The flange shape - round or square - is of no fundamental importance.

Wall mount

The chimney should be fixed to the walls using standard clamps and brackets for attaching sandwich structures. The optimum distance between the fasteners is at least 500 mm. The lower part of the pipe must be installed on a sturdy bracket fixed to the wall or on a stand.

If the chimney rises above the roof slope by more than 1 m, it is necessary to secure the structure with guy wires; if it is more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to provide additional fasteners - for example, a strong rod securely fixed to the wall. The pipe is attached to the bar using all the same clamps. The sandwich pipe itself, assembled from thin steel modules, does not have the necessary rigidity and strength and can bend and even collapse in strong winds.

Sealing

The joints of the elements are sealed by applying a heat-resistant sealant to both abutting surfaces. It is better to use a silicate sealant to seal the joints - it can withstand temperatures up to 850 ° C and above. For sealing the flange and ebb - silicone sealant withstanding up to 250 ° C.

Installation video

The main stages of the process of installing an external chimney with a pipe through the wall are shown in our video:

Frequent errors and problems during installation

The most serious mistakes during the installation of sandwich pipes are installation at a short distance from the wall, the lack of insulation at the place where the sandwich pipes pass through the wall, and the assembly of elements through smoke. Chimney in the wall wooden house requires particularly careful insulation of the space between the pipe and the wall.

It is important during installation to control that there is a sufficient amount of insulation at the junction of the pipes - poor insulation will lead to heating of the outer part of the pipe with all dangerous consequences. The joints should not be located in the place where the pipe passes through the wall and the overhang of the roof.

It is also important to securely and strictly vertically fasten the structure. Particular attention should be paid to the fixings for the chimney to the wall if the wall surface is insulated with expanded polystyrene or mineral wool - the dowels should be long enough and go into supporting structure(not in plaster!) walls not less than 60 mm.

If the pipe passes through the side overhang of the roof, be sure to install an ebb so that precipitation from the slope does not fall on the sandwich (they can wet the insulation). On the front facade, it is also worth covering the place where the pipe passes through the ledge of the roof covering with ebbs (although in this case, the pipe often passes without touching the covering).


A direct path to fire.

The chimney outside the building should be collected by condensation. If collected through smoke, condensate can get inside the sleeve, wet the insulation - the pipe will be poorly insulated (the liquid conducts heat well), the outer sleeve will heat up, heat up the wall structures, which can lead to a fire. In addition, freezing of the liquid can damage the pipes, and the acid in the condensate can cause the inner stainless steel liner to burn out faster. At the same time, a small smoke leak in the open air is quite safe, and a large one is clearly visible and can be eliminated by additionally smearing the pipe joint with a sealant.

In no case should the diameter of the chimney hole be reduced - this will lead to a decrease or stop of the draft.

It is necessary to regularly (2 times a year) clean the chimney from soot, the head - from frozen condensation, ice and snow.

How to insulate

The sandwich pipe is already well insulated and does not need additional insulation. An exception is the place where the pipe passes through a wall or partitions. For this, different insulation materials are used, fireproof, if possible. Glass wool with a low melting point cannot be used for chimneys; basalt wool cannot be used for coal boilers.

The place where the pipe passes through the wall (sometimes through the wooden structure of the roof overhang) must be insulated with basalt or ceramic wool, foamed vermiculite, and asbestos.

Do not think that asbestos is super harmful - finished products do not generate dust and do not emit harmful substances, and the asbestos itself will be closed and isolated from the room with a flange.

Features of working with wooden walls

The peculiarity of wooden walls is their flammability. Therefore, installing a chimney in a wooden house is more difficult than in a stone one. When removing the chimney through a wooden wall, it is necessary to very strictly maintain the distance from the wall to the pipe (at least 260 mm) and to perform high-quality thermal insulation of the passage through the wall. It is also important to pay attention to the treatment of the walls with an antipyretic.

The device of a chimney in a wooden house requires insulation of the wall surface near the outlet of the heat generator and the first mounted monotube. Insulation is performed with non-combustible materials - plaster, tiles (porcelain stoneware), stone, fiber cement sheets, a sheet of metal with an asbestos sheet attached.

Features of brick and concrete walls

Brick and concrete are fire resistant - this is a big plus. Nevertheless, insulation at the place of the pipe passage is mandatory, the distance to the wall is at least 130 mm. The rules for installing chimneys were invented for the safety of people, and they should be followed in any case.

Often, a chimney through a wall has to be installed in cases where the structure has already been built and an external channel needs to be installed. To do this, you need to correctly calculate all the nuances, take into account the level of inclination, the peculiarity of the design and material itself, and, of course, provide for the possibility of installing all kinds of boilers. In addition, an important aspect of the correct functioning of the chimney through the wall is the correct and consistent operating procedure, which is contained in the corresponding documentation.

Functionality and design features

So, how to bring the chimney through the wall, what features do you need to know and what to look for first of all? Consider not only the passage through the wall, but also the exit of the chimney upward. That is optimal height for any type of chimney construction it must correspond to 5 - 10 meters. The use of a smaller duct in a 100% guarantee gives poor draft, and accordingly problems with flue gas emission. By the way, it is not recommended to overestimate the channel height too much, above 10 meters will already be accompanied by excessive combustion and high fuel consumption.

Considering that with time of use, you will definitely need to clean the channel from soot, it is often round pipes from expanded clay or metal. And the installation of such structures is much easier, especially if we take into account modern offers like a two-channel or two-layer pipe. It is a ready-made structure that does not require insulation and additional sealing.

This type of design has proven its practicality and optimality, it does not form condensation and negative deposits. Besides outer walls do not heat up to prohibitive temperatures, therefore, a fairly serious fire situation is maintained.

Advantages and disadvantages

When removing the chimney through the wall, you can note the appearance of some positive aspects in this design:

  • Saving internal space.
  • The possibility of equipping the channel even after the completion of the construction of the house.
  • Installation, assembly of such structures is much easier than similar ones inside the structures.
  • High fire safety. After all, the inner walls can reach temperatures of more than 1000 degrees, inside the room this is a huge minus, unlike the street, where you can not pay attention to such temperatures.
  • Over time, even the most sealed and high-quality chimneys begin to pass carbon monoxide through the cracks and cracks formed in the walls.
  • In the event of any problems with the draft, it is possible to adjust the chimney pipe without damage and violation of the integrity of the passages.

Disadvantages, including the installation of a sandwich chimney:

  • Mandatory insulation (except for the "sandwich").
  • The external channel, in some cases, requires the removal of the necessary "piece" of land.
  • From external systems, heat goes into the atmosphere, when inside the house it was possible to organize additional source heating.
  • It is difficult to match the structure to the design of the building.
  • With high channel sizes, the fastening system can become a problem, from high windage.

Basic installation steps

When carrying out the work on installing your chimney through the wall, you need to remember important rules and installation steps. You should adhere to the sequence so as not to forget anything and to do everything right. So, install the chimney, steps:

  • Check if there are communications in the places of passage through the wall.
  • Mark out and prepare a hole of the required diameter.
  • Install a "pipe" that you carefully seal and heat insulate from the wall with a special fire-resistant material. A special cover can be installed on top.
  • The pipe is connected to the boiler, stove by means of a three-end "elbow". The lower part is obligatory, with the help of this outlet it will be possible to carry out cleaning.
  • The outer section of the second "knee" behind the wall must be fixed, it is important to remember that horizontal planes should not exceed one meter.
  • Further, the installation of the vertical part is carried out. Pay attention to the fastening, use only high quality fasteners.

After erecting the entire vertical part, you need to know how to install the head, the so-called cone-shaped cover, which will improve traction and protect the channel from clogging. Depending on the type of channel, you will need to insulate and insulate the space between the wall and the pipe.

Features of working with wooden walls

When installing a chimney through a wall in a wooden house, you need to remember about the high fire hazard of this material. When passing the chimney through a wooden wall, you need to take additional care of insulation, for example, you can use fire-resistant bricks, asbestos. V frame house the situation is similar. To understand the whole process visually, we demonstrate how to correctly lead the chimney through the wall in a wooden house with a diagram.

By the way, the arrangement of good insulation is allowed to avoid damage to the wood, because the fibers dry out from heating. Starting to think over the removal of the chimney through a wooden wall, think over which structure you will use. All specialists recommend the installation of three-layer systems, they are equipped with their own thermal insulation, which practically does not allow heating external parts channel.

By the way, to the specifics of the installation specifically for wooden buildings, it is possible to attribute the obligation to form a perfectly vertical channel, without bends. When making a chimney, do not forget about installing dampers, they will help to cope with excessive draft and allow you to regulate the flow.

An important point, now many people use siding as a decoration for wooden houses. So, the use of siding implies a distance of more than 150 mm from the wall to the chimney. This is due to the fact that the fire material is dangerous and its temperature range is equal to minimum value only 50 degrees.

Chimney installation

The passage of any chimney through the wall is a responsible occupation, it is important to correctly calculate all the nuances. The outlet of the chimney through the wall should be done only in the place where there are no communications. In addition, the specifics of wall mounting include the installation of a reliable branching system. Sharp corners are not allowed, they lead to the formation of vortices, which will negatively affect the performance of the system.

It is necessary to carry out the installation starting from the heat source, that is, from the connection of the pipe and the boiler. Next, we go directly to the fastening of the partition, the installation of the chimney fastening on the wall. It is not advised to use do-it-yourself fasteners.

Previously, draw a passage in the wall, mark the attachment point on outside wall... Be sure to make the correct pass-through knot as described above. Pay special attention to wooden houses. How to properly bring out into the street through brick wall watch the tutorial videos, but remember that there is always one feature. It is necessary to carefully insulate the place, as well as carry out high-quality thermal insulation, in order to avoid a fire.

After wiring through the wall, we attach the pipe to the brackets pre-installed on the wall. After being brought to the roof, the pipe is additionally attached with special braces, provided that the height is much higher than the ridge of the roof.

Of all types of boiler equipment, perhaps only electric ones do not need a device for removing fuel combustion products - chimneys. A person, based on many years of experience in construction, has learned how to remove smoke using various forms of structures that can be made from natural stone, brick, sheet metal.

Chimney sandwich pipe. Why she?

Recently wide use got multilayer sandwich chimneys. Their design is extremely simple. A heat-insulating material is applied to a pipe made of stainless steel, as a rule, this is mineral wool made of basalt. It, in turn, is closed with another pipe, which can be made of corrosion-resistant steel or galvanized sheet. At the end of the pipes, locks are made that allow the installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through walls or roofs without any particular difficulties.

Thus, the homeowner, how to install a chimney, may well collect the exhaust system on his own, without resorting to the costly services of third-party specialists. But, at the same time, he must know how to properly lay the chimney and some more rules that will protect his home from fire in the future due to improper assembly or operation of this structure.

Features of the use of steel

Fuel combustion products have a high saturation of chemically aggressive substances. The temperature difference, the presence of moisture inside the sandwich pipe creates the prerequisites for the activation of corrosion processes. The minimization of corrosion processes is eliminated by the use of stainless steel. But, in all fairness, it should be noted that the use of this rather expensive material does not remove all the problems associated with the use of metal in chimney structures.

The stainless steel sandwich guarantees rapid cooling of the combustion waste, especially in those areas of the chimney located in open areas. A drop in temperature leads to a decrease in thrust. In addition, the temperature difference leads to the formation of condensation. Its presence on the pipe surface creates conditions for the formation of soot layers and the growth of corrosion.

The use of metal in the initial sections of the outgoing sandwich pipe, especially near the boiler or furnace, leads to the fact that the pipe heats up to dangerous ambient temperatures. Touching such a pipe is fraught with burns, and building structures are under constant threat of fire. That is, when installing a sandwich pipe in a bath, it is necessary to take measures to eliminate this threat.

The use of such pipes to create systems for the removal of combustion products made it possible to solve most of the above problems and allows you to install a sandwich chimney with your own hands.

Sandwich chimney properties

Among the properties inherent in sandwich panel chimneys, there are some indisputable advantages:

  • light weight;
  • compatibility with all devices used to generate heat energy;
  • aesthetic appearance;
  • high resistance to corrosion;
  • reducing the risk of fire building structure;
  • reducing the amount of soot accumulating inside the pipe;
  • high assembly of installation works;
  • the ability to perform installation from sandwich pipes both inside and outside the building.

At the same time, the consumer should understand that the cost of a stainless steel chimney exceeds the price of a similar structure made of galvanized material. Another drawback that can manifest itself in the presence of installation errors or violations of assembly technology is the loss of tightness. Another reason why the chimney can lose its tightness is the result of long-term operation.

What is needed to work on the installation of a chimney

Manufacturers engaged in the production of stainless steel pipes complete their products with fasteners that are necessary for their installation. Therefore, when purchasing a kit, it is advisable to check their availability.

Installation of sandwich pipes may require some Additional materials and tools, among them are:

  • bracket holding the wall crossing assembly;
  • fasteners;
  • clamps corresponding to the size of the pipe;
  • stubs;
  • marking marker;
  • sealant with increased requirements for fire resistance, up to 1000 degrees.

Chimney installation - some subtleties

Installation work must be carried out taking into account some technological subtleties. For example, the final assembly diagram of a chimney sandwich should take into account, then, most of structures must pass indoors. This will reduce heat losses during the heating season. In the process of developing a scheme for a gas exhaust system, it is necessary to take into account the fact that horizontal sections should not exceed one meter in length.

In addition, there are selection tables on the basis of which you can select the diameter of the pipeline.

Table 1.

By the way, when making an independent calculation, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the thickness of thermal insulation is directly related to the power of the boiler or furnace equipment. So, for a boiler with a power of 0.6 kW, insulation with a thickness of 25 mm is required. The higher the power, the higher the power, the thicker the thermal insulation.

Data on the applicability of pipes should be indicated in the instruction manual or operation.

Another task that needs to be solved when drawing up a scheme is to ensure fire safety, that is, pipes should not be interfaced with other engineering communications, especially for gas communications. In addition, it is necessary to place sections of the chimney at a certain distance from wooden structures... Special shaped steel brackets must be used to fix the structure. The minimum step for installing fasteners for installing the pipeline should be at least 1 meter.

When designing a structure, it is necessary to equip an inspection door through which the structure will be inspected and cleaned from soot.

Installation of this structure should be done without flaws. Most often, mistakes and defects in the installation of the pipeline are made for the reasons:

  • errors in calculations and wiring diagram;
  • non-compliance with technological discipline.
  • the use of base materials, tools, fasteners.

The price of the issue

No one will argue with the fact that installing a chimney sandwich with your own hands can reduce the cost of home improvement. But, nevertheless, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Despite the external simplicity of installation, you need to know that the price directly depends on the method of performing the work. It can be performed "by smoke" or "by condensation". When choosing the first method, it will be necessary to use tees through which condensate will be discharged. With the second variant of assembly and installation, additional components are not required.

We must always remember that the installation of a chimney sandwich is a very important and responsible procedure. And if, nevertheless, the homeowner decided to independently assemble and install a chimney from a sandwich pipe, then he should be aware of the full extent of responsibility for this detail.

Output through the wall

The outlet of the chimney through the wall is performed if the work is performed in an already erected building. In this case, the chimney will pass through outside wall the building and the homeowner should take measures to protect the wall from the effects of the temperature emanating from the chimney.

When constructing a new house, the chimney system is carried out inside the building, in this case heat losses are minimized.

When deciding to install a pipe through a blockhouse, it is necessary to realize that it will have to be insulated using materials such as basalt wool, asbestos or bricks. This operation must be carried out in accordance with fire safety requirements. This approach will minimize the cost of its maintenance with a long service life.

Where to start the passage through the wall

Chimney purchase

The purchased chimney pipe must comply with the diagram developed before installation. The length of the chimney must also correspond to the calculated data. Too low a height will create problems with traction, soot will constantly get into the room where the heater is installed, which occurs during the combustion process, too long, on the contrary, will cause accelerated combustion of the fuel, and as a result, additional heat will be released into the atmosphere.

Important! Experts note that the length of the gas removal system should be within the range from 5 to 10 meters.

The kit of the chimney to be purchased, in addition to the standard fasteners, should include elbows, tees and, of course, pipes.

General conditions for passing through a wall

In fact, the arrangement of a transition through a wall or through a roof can be done even at the design stage. That is, the designer has every opportunity to include in the documentation the chimney transition unit through the wall. At the same time, he must and will be guided by the requirements of GOST, SNiP and SP on fire safety. This way, the homeowner can be confident that the site will be completely safe.

When making a transition through a wall, it is necessary to take into account that there should not be engineering structures near the pipe that are not protected from the effects of heat. The minimum distance to them should be about 400 mm. If it is not possible to provide this distance, then it is necessary to take measures for additional insulation of the pipe.

Log wall passage

Before laying a chimney through a wall assembled from a log or bar, it is necessary to prepare a hole. If the building is just being built, then, directly when assembling the crowns of a log house, using a gas or electric saw, cut a piece of a log or a bar in the laid crown. Its size must be larger than the diameter of the chimney.

If a decision is made to pass the wall using a round hole, then before starting to manufacture it, it makes sense to drill a center hole, its presence will allow drilling with core drills or ballerinas.

Note: When arranging a wall crossing frame-panel house it makes sense to pre-drill and then mark out. The hole can be obtained using a ballerina or an electric jigsaw.

The passage through the wall of a building built of logs is performed in the following ways:

  • you can use a telescopic unit, that is, several pipes made of heat-insulating material and with a diameter exceeding the chimney. In this case, the pipes must be inserted into each other;
  • the chimney can be run through the wall, without the use of additional pipes, but the space between the walls and it must be laid out thermal insulation materials, for example basalt wool.

Walking through a brick wall

For arranging a passage through a wall built of bricks or blocks, with different fillers... Before you carry out its penetration, it is necessary to carry out a markup. For these purposes, it is advisable to use a laser measuring instrument. In this case, errors will be minimized. When making a hole, remember that such deformation of the load-bearing wall can lead to cracks. Therefore, builders must provide measures to prevent their formation, for example, install a pre-prepared frame in it, which will prevent subsidence of the wall structure.

  • the installation itself is carried out in several operations:
  • a pipe must be installed at the exit from the boiler;
  • install a tee with a valve mounted in it;
  • after installing the tee, pass the sandwich pipe through the previously prepared hole and connect it to the tee.

The space around the pipe must be filled with refractory material. At the inlet and outlet of the pipe, it is necessary to install shields that cover the transition. This shield can be made in several modifications, for example, it can be made of an asbestos sheet and a sheet of stainless or galvanized steel fixed to it from above.

Subsequently, the chimney can be assembled as the children's designer... After the wall has been passed, work begins on fixing the chimney to the wall.

The homeowner, assembling the chimney from the sandwich pipes with his own hands, must understand that the assembly of the gas exhaust system is a very responsible event and the safety of the building structure and the residents living in it largely depends on it.