A brick chimney requires more effort than using a metal pipe for this purpose. But this design looks much more prestigious and lasts longer. We will consider three types of brick chimneys: classic single, expanded with vents, and simplified. Each type has its own characteristics and advantages. The final decision is chosen by the developers, while taking into account the individual characteristics of the bath, design preferences, financial capabilities and the availability of professional skills.
For all types of brick chimneys, there are several general provisions that must be followed.
Height above the roof covering. It is regulated taking into account the angle of inclination of the slopes, must ensure fire safety and exclude the blowing of the draft by air turbulence from the ridge. If the roof covering is made of non-combustible materials, then the requirements for fire height can be ignored, but the chimney should be warned against turbulence. The recommended height values can be seen in the photo.
Manufacturing material. For most chimneys, ordinary red brick can be used. If there is a desire, buy a fireproof one, but it costs much more, and you should not expect a large positive effect from its use.
We recommend using refractory bricks only for laying the overhead pipe, in this place the highest gas temperature. The fact is that red brick can withstand temperatures up to + 800 ° C without problems, and the temperature of the gases in the chimney is much lower. It is strictly forbidden to use silicate brick - during heating, it releases toxic chemical compounds into the air. Such a brick can only be used for external wall decoration.
An important requirement for all bricks is that the side surfaces must be smooth. The presence of irregularities and roughness increases the deposition of soot in the smoke channel, it will have to be cleaned much more often. Large amounts of soot not only impair traction, but can also cause ignition, and this is a direct risk of fire. During the installation of the chimney, the inner channel must be immediately cleaned of the solution protruding in the seams. Use a damp cloth or sponge for this, to achieve maximum smoothness of the inner surfaces of the channel.
refractory brick
Masonry mortar. There are two options. Some stove-makers use only clay mortar others add a little cement to it. We are in favor of the second option, cement significantly increases the strength of the structure. But you choose, both types of solutions do a good job with their tasks.
Consider the structural elements of a classic chimney.
From the top of the stove to Accepts very hot gases, fireclay bricks can be used for the channel. It is better to buy a gate ready-made in a store, there is no way - do it yourself. Store structures are more reliable, they are made of ductile iron and do not deform during heating. Steel gates can deform as a result of tempering of the steel. The deformed gate wedges in the grooves, opening / closing is difficult. For laying the lower part of the chimney, it is recommended to use a clay solution without adding cement.
It performs two tasks: increases the resistance of the chimney to wind loads - rests against the floor beams. In addition, the increased dimensions of the fluff serve fire protection wooden structures.
Part of the chimney from fluff to otter. The longest section, during laying, it is necessary to observe the vertical position of all rows.
Special thickening above the roof covering. Traditional chimneys are made without the use of modern methods of sealing the exit above the roof, the increased size of the otter excludes the ingress of natural precipitation into the attic of the bath. To improve insulation, galvanized steel sheets can be nailed around the perimeter of the otter.
The length of the neck depends on the angle of inclination and the type of roof, the specific dimensions take into account all the features of the structure. The neck height influences the thrust stability regardless of the wind strength.
- decorative element of the chimney.
Prevents rain and snow from entering the flue duct. There is one more function for the cap. If no one uses the sauna stove for a long time, then the birds can twist a nest in the channel - the chimney will have to be cleaned. To prevent such situations, it is recommended to cover the outlet with a metal mesh.
We can give only the approximate dimensions of each element of the chimney, more accurate parameters need to be calculated taking into account the architectural features of the stove and bath.
The presence of a brick chimney should be provided even during the design of the bath. The stove must be made of brick and must be on a separate concrete foundation.
For most sauna stoves a channel of 250 × 120 mm is sufficient, this is standard sizes red brick. For laying the chimney, you will need special half-standard bricks, they can be bought ready-made or well-cut with a grinder with a diamond disc.
The thickness of the solution is not more than 1 cm, the thicker the solution, the greater the risk of cracking it during thermal expansion. We do not recommend making such a complex chimney for a metal stove, it is enough to install a pipe for it.
Step 1... Prepare bricks, tools and mortar. Take measurements to the gate and fluff.
Step 2. Start laying from the bottom of the chimney from the stove, check each row with a level on all four planes. After three to four rows, clean the channel from excess solution.
Practical advice. The laying of the chimney can be significantly accelerated. After laying 2-3 rows of bricks, fasten ropes in them at the corners and pull them towards the ceiling. Install the ropes strictly vertically, they control the position of the chimney. You no longer need to waste time checking each row with a level.
Step 3. Fix the frame in the place where the gate is to be installed. The installation of the frame should not violate the position of the upper plane of the bricks, for this you need to select a recess in them according to the dimensions of the gate frame.
Step 4. Continue laying until the beginning of the fluffing device. Count the number of rows that will have to be laid before the fluff reaches required sizes... At the same time, keep in mind that in one row, the perimeter of the chimney increases by a quarter of the width of the brick. The fluff should fit snugly against the ceiling beams. If they are located at a great distance from the chimney, it is necessary to make special persistent frame structures.
Step 5. Lay out the fluff according to the scheme. Keep in mind that this is only a schematic diagram, the specific number of rows of bricks to reach the maximum width of the fluff depends on the design of the bath. It is not necessary to fluff a square profile, you can lay out a rectangular one.
In the photo - fluff
Important. There should be no gaps between the ceiling beams and the fluff, otherwise the chimney will stagger under the influence of sharp gusts of wind. Oscillations will break the tightness of the pipe adjoining the roofing, and this will certainly cause leaks. There is no need to explain what a constantly wet rafter system or an attic is. Do not put any mineral wool for thermal insulation, the thickness of the fluff completely excludes spontaneous combustion of wooden elements.
Step 6. Gradually, for the same number of rows, move from the fluff to the size of the chimney, pull it up to the roof.
Step 7. At the bottom level of the roof, start laying the otter. This element of the chimney is more complicated than fluffing, the increase in the width of the chimney should occur gradually, taking into account the slope of the slopes. We strongly recommend that to increase the stability of the structure during masonry, metal plates are embedded in the otter and attached to the rafter system.
The ends of the bricks need to be trimmed to reduce the gap between the roofing and the otter. If you don't want to cut it, we advise you to install metal sheets between the bottom of the otter and the roof covering to prevent precipitation from entering the rafter system and the attic.
Practical advice. For those who are first engaged in the construction of a brick chimney, we strongly advise you to lay bricks on the ground without mortar before laying according to the scheme. This will allow you to better understand the technology of masonry and avoid annoying mistakes.
Important. If plastering of the chimney is not planned, then the visible part of the masonry must be done for internal or external jointing. Bricks are even and beautiful - embroider the seams, the appearance of the materials is unsatisfactory - you will have to plaster. We will talk about the plastering technology a little below.
Step 8. Head masonry. A purely decorative element, increase the outer perimeter of the chimney by a quarter of a brick. The head is one row and immediately after it is the finishing one. We recommend embedding in the finish row metal mesh from birds. Fasten the protective cap on top of the chimney with dowels.
Allow two to three days to dry, and then start the first heating of the oven. Do not be alarmed if at the beginning of the heating the thrust is small or absent altogether, over time everything will fall into place.
There are two options:
We believe that making a universal device is much more profitable.
The device is made from pieces of wire rod or construction reinforcement Ø 6 ÷ 8 mm. The length of the fittings depends on the width of the chimney or walls. The bar must be bent with the letter V, the center of the bend is located in the middle. The ends are bent again at an angle of approximately 90 °. How to use the device?
Step 1. Choose even wooden slats, the length of the slats should be equal to the length of the surface. Maybe shorter, but then you have to plaster in two steps.
Step 2... Install the slats at the corners of the chimney (or opening) and fix them with two manufactured clips. The clamps should hold the rails securely in position.
Step 3... Select the thickness of the plaster layer depending on the condition of the chimney surface. Try to keep it no more than 1.5 cm, if there are large protrusions, then remove them.
Step 4. Use a spirit level to set the strips vertically. There should be two slats on one side of the chimney. Repeat the same operations on the opposite wall.
Step 5. Start plastering the surfaces, remove the excess mass as a rule and level it along the installed slats. Repeat on the opposite side of the chimney.
The next day, carefully remove the clamps and slats. The flat corners of the plaster will now serve as guidelines for the rule while plastering the two remaining chimney planes. Simple, fast, cheap and beautiful. Do not throw away the clamps, they can be used to handle everything outer corners in buildings.
We hope that you have carefully read our tips and already have an understanding of the laying of a traditional chimney. In this case, the simplified version will not create big problems. Let's dwell on its differences and technological features.
The chimney does not have fluff and otter. The fluff serves as a fixing element, since it is not there, you need to fix the structure in a different way. We recommend making a frame around the perimeter of the chimney from the corner, using threaded connections to attach the frame to the chimney at the ceiling level. Next, it must be fixed to the ceiling beams. You can fix it with metal plates or construction fittings, it doesn't matter. The main thing is that the chimney does not stagger.
The otter was needed to seal the chimney outlet above the roof covering. It does not mutilate - do the sealing yourself. Use metal sheets for this, the specific sealing technology depends on the type of roof. We will only point out the main general points.
If the brick used for laying the chimney was already in use, then the inner channel must also be plastered. Special angles and straightness should not be observed, the main thing is that the surfaces are as smooth as possible.
Availability effective ventilation in the steam room and shower - one of the important conditions for the comfort of taking water procedures. In addition, it helps to quickly dry out rooms and increase the life of all timber structures.
To put brick chimney just for the sake of the smoke from the stove is impractical. In this case, you will have to make ventilation ducts in the walls. We strongly recommend making ventilation ducts right in the chimney. If the stove and chimney are placed correctly, then it becomes possible to equip ventilation not only in the steam room, but also in the shower room. For other rooms of the bath, ventilation can be omitted at all.
Installation of electric fans () or decorative grilles with adjustable blinds or dampers is allowed in the ducts.
Step 1. On the ground made of bricks, make a preliminary layout of the chimney, provide in it one channel for smoke and two for ventilation. In order to save money, lay the pipe from the stove aerated concrete blocks, they are much cheaper, use bricks only for the smoke channel. The entire chimney made of bricks should be laid only from the place where the ventilation ducts are opened (under the ceiling of the steam room and shower room). After opening the channels, the chimney is made only of ceramic bricks.
aerated concrete block
Step 2. Lay bricks with bandaging, dimensions ventilation holes it is enough to do around the perimeter ≈ 12 cm, which is one width and two thicknesses of a standard red solid brick.
Step 3. If, for technological reasons, the ventilation duct has to be made in the corner of the chimney, then cut the bricks with a grinder to give them the desired geometric shape. Close the seams carefully, do not leave gaps. Violation of the tightness of the seams significantly reduces the ventilation efficiency of the premises.
Step 4. Recommended wall thickness between half-brick channels, but you can change it depending on the required distance between ventilation and smoke channels. Tie each new row with the old minimum of half a brick. Keep in mind that the dimensions of the chimney with ventilation ducts increase, wind sail loads increase, therefore, its stability needs to be increased.
Step 5. Continue laying along the entire length of the chimney using the same algorithm. To speed up work between the extreme corners, pull the rope and control the position of the bricks along it. It does not hurt to check the verticality of the structure from time to time. The head is made in the usual way - with a third of the brick overhanging through the row.
Otter and fluff in such chimneys should not be done, attach the chimney to the beams and rafters using metal corners and plates.
You can find statements that the height of the chimney cannot be less than five meters. This is not the case, ignore such statements. Just imagine a bathhouse about two meters high, above which a three meters high chimney sticks out.
Accurate calculations are quite complex, you need to know many formulas and take into account a large number of factors: the temperature of the gases at the entrance to the chimney, the speed of the air flow, the height, the speed of combustion and the type of fuel, the wind rose, etc. You should not engage in such complex calculations, we advise use the Swedish method. It takes into account the main indicators, based on which calculations are made and a schedule is drawn up. As initial data, you only need to know the area of the furnace (F), chimney (f) and its height (H). Having two parameters, you can always find out the unknown third.
For example, you know the dimensions of the firebox and chimney, you need to know its height depending on the profile configuration. Find the percentage of these parameters and use the graph to find out the minimum height. Or vice versa, the height of the chimney and the area of the firebox are known, but you need to find out the size of the chimney channel. Again, using the simplest arithmetic operations on the graph, you will find out the dimensions of the channel, taking into account the configuration of the section.
Otter laying and fluffing can be simplified by using metal plates or rods. Use them to tie the rows together, just do not let the bars get into the working channels.
You can find advice not to plaster low-quality bricks, but to cover them with a special ceramic tiles... We advise against doing this for several reasons.
Ceramic tiles for the stove - an example
Important. The duration of operation of a brick chimney largely depends on the modes of the furnace. Red brick is very afraid of high humidity. Especially in winter period time when the water freezes and breaks its integrity at a doubled rate. What to do to prevent the brick in the chimney from getting wet? Everything is very simple - the temperature of the gases at the exit from the chimney must be at least + 110 ° С, such conditions will exclude the appearance of condensate on the walls of the channel.
But this is where problems arise. To reach such a temperature of the exit smoke, the stove must be heated strongly, and this is not always possible and advisable. In addition, most modern factory furnaces have a fairly high efficiency, the heat of combustion of the fuel is given off in the combustion chamber, and relatively cold gases are already entering the chimney. This means that condensation is inevitable. By the way, condensation not only negatively affects the strength of the brick. A lot of soot sticks to the wet walls of the channel; the chimney will have to be cleaned almost in a year.
There are two ways out of this situation.
Choose which of the methods we offer suits you best.
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Last revised: 05/15/2017
The pipe is used to remove exhaust gases from a home stove or fireplace during their heating. There are two types of chimneys: top-mounted - with its base rests directly on the furnace, and main - assembled as a separate structure. To build a brick chimney yourself, read this article with recommendations from the best craftsmen.
In accordance with the norms of SNiP (building codes and regulations), when building a brick chimney, as well as with its possible reconstruction, the following requirements are met:
At pitched roof the requirements for the outer part look somewhat different:
Before folding a brick chimney, you should familiarize yourself with its design from the following elements:
You will need such a tool:
Note! A prerequisite for assembling a brick chimney is to use a prepared clay solution mixed with clean and dry sand for its laying. Make sure that the structure is vertical in relation to the horizon, carefully controlling it with the help of a construction plumb line along the entire length of the exhaust duct. In the upper and lower parts, drive in a couple of nails and pull a strong twine between them, focusing on which it will be possible to control the strict verticality of the masonry.
The expansion of the chimney brick channel, arranged in the ceiling ceiling, excludes the possibility of thermal effects on the flammable parts of the ceiling structure.
This structural element is usually made of either brick or concrete. But it is allowed to simply insulate the passage section with a special material that does not support combustion (basalt mineral wool, for example). In the latter case, the insulation plate is at least 10 cm thick.
Let's consider in more detail the arrangement of "fluff" from traditional material. It is necessary to strictly observe the order of laying, with the expansion of each subsequent row by about 4 cm.
Note! The height of the resulting element should not be lower than the inter-attic floor available in the structure. Upon completion of the construction of this part of the canal, the abutment to the building structure must be laid on all sides with a thick layer of special fire-resistant sheet asbestos with a thickness of at least 1 cm.
Upon completion of the "fluffing" registration, the remaining part of the chimney channel (up to the plane of the roofing) is laid in the same way as before the expansion, with the obligatory control of all plumb-line operations.
The chimney must have one more extension, called “otter”, arranged outside above the roof plane. Such a construct is necessary to protect the upper part from adverse climatic influences.
For buildings with different angles the slope of roofs, the design of this type of element will have certain features, which you can familiarize yourself with in special sources.
Note! With all possible versions of the "otter", the laying of this section of the chimney is always carried out with the addition of dry cement to the masonry mortar in a ratio of 1:10 and the addition of a small amount of water.
Two rows of bricks are laid from the roof level, the third row is placed with an offset in one plane outward by 1/4. It is important that the quarter offset is done in one direction only! Subsequent rows are stacked with exactly the same offset of 1/4, but it is already done from 2 lateral sides, that is, in the direction of two perpendicular planes relative to the offset of the previous row.
Make sure that the size of the inner canal does not change over the entire length.
Below is a selection of photos and diagrams different designs chimneys made of bricks.
Nowadays, there are a large number of different chimneys suitable for solid fuel or gas boiler. Latest developments in this area and the emergence of new materials allow manufacturers to produce chimneys, which by their design are separate complex units that can successfully resist corrosion, soot deposits and condensation. But still, despite this, many people prefer to lay down a brick chimney with their own hands.
Recently construction country houses became widespread. Along with this, interest in fireplaces and stoves has increased. People try to build stoves according to old, proven recipes inherited from their fathers and grandfathers. But the art of stove in a certain period of development of our country in some regions was almost completely lost. Today we will try to help you fold the chimney with your own hands.
Before you fold a brick chimney, you need to figure out what parts it consists of. After all, many people think that brick chimneys are ordinary rectangular pipe from bricks laid on mortar. This is not entirely true. But let's start in order.
At the beginning . This part of the pipe is installed directly on the oven. A valve can be installed in it. The back-up pipe must be laid out observing the binding of bricks in each row. The attachment part is not brought up to the interfloor overlap for 5 or 6 rows. It all depends on the height of the stove, the room and the thickness of the interfloor overlap. This place is called the fluff neck.
When laying a brick pipe, the cross-section of the chimney in the overhead pipe and the head must be the same. Thus, the cross-section of the entire smoke channel anywhere in the chimney is of the same size.
The fluff or cutting should be laid out in several rows, broadening the outer part of the chimney 250 - 400 mm.
Then you should lay out another cut, which is called an otter. The otter forms an expansion on the chimney on all four sides, not less than 100 mm... This expansion prevents atmospheric precipitation from entering through the gaps between the chimney and the roof directly into the attic space. The absence of an otter entails the penetration of moisture into the attic, leading to the destruction of the supporting structures of the roof and ceiling.
Above the otter, the chimney must be laid in the same way as the riser. This place is called the neck of the pipe.
After the neck, the outer masonry expands again, forming a chimney head. A weather vane or a metal cap can be installed on the head, which will protect the inside of the chimney from atmospheric precipitation.
A well-chosen weather vane or hood can significantly increase the draft in the chimney.
We examined all the main parts and their names, it's time to tell you how to make a brick chimney with your own hands.
Today we will not mention materials, tools or which brick for the chimney to use; quite a lot has already been said about this on the pages of our resource. We will assume that we have everything ready. Our task today is to consider how to properly build a brick chimney.
Before us is a drawing of a brick chimney. While there are many other options, this is a standard brick chimney layout for a stove, solid fuel boiler, or fireplace. Using a special alloy metal pipe inside such a chimney can easily turn it into. Since the requirements for the conditions of flue gas discharge of a solid fuel and gas boiler are somewhat different.
The numbers in the drawing indicate:
It is important to know: fluff and otter can be laid a little differently, it all depends on the location of the chimney relative to the roof and on the angle of its slope.
The size of the channel directly depends on the thickness of the masonry joints - remember this.
Looking from the inside, it becomes clear that the fluff begins to take its shape.
If necessary, to make the fluff higher, you can lay another row, with a dressing under the underlying masonry.
This completes the work in the attic, then you need to start the construction of a part of the chimney on the roof.
We continue to lay out the riser on the roof. Pay close attention to the bandaging of the brickwork.
As you can see, in this row, the brickwork forms only one ledge, forward. At the edges, the outer dimension of the chimney remains unchanged.
Thus, we have a front and two side protrusions. It remains to lay out the rear ledge.
You can see all the dimensions of the chimney height above the roof on our resource. This applies to all chimneys, whether they are chimneys for brick boilers or other heating units.
Inexperienced builders believe that laying a brick chimney is the same as building walls. However, the chimney device has its own nuances. In particular, experts do not recommend using a cement-sand mortar. Such a solution will not withstand sharp temperature fluctuations that occur in the wall of the chimney pipe. In addition, the usual solution will collapse from condensation, which inevitably settles on the pipe wall.
Therefore, it is necessary to lay a brick chimney using a thermo-efficient and chemical-resistant solution. You can prepare a solution using ready-made mixtures. But it is expensive, so many people prefer to prepare a thermo-effective solution on their own, such a solution consists of cement, sand, lime and chamotte. Some experts recommend using clay mortar.
If for wood stove and a solid fuel boiler, a brick chimney device is justified, then for a gas boiler this is not the best option smoke removal. It's all about the different modes of operation of the furnace, solid fuel and gas boiler. If solid fuel equipment does not require large traction, then the use of a rectangular brick pipe for a gas boiler will lead to a decrease in the efficiency of the heating unit.
When using a gas boiler, the requirements for the chimney device are different than when installing solid fuel equipment. Therefore, if a house is being built, then a chimney from a metal pipe is needed for a gas boiler.
If a gas boiler is being installed instead of a solid fuel or wood-burning stove, then the construction of a new chimney is impractical. However, the requirements for the flue gas boiler must be met. In this case, the brick chimney is insulated, that is, the installation of a metal pipe inside the existing brick chimney. Thus, the requirements for the smoke exhaust device will be met and you will not have to disassemble the old pipe.
By and large, do-it-yourself brick chimneys are a completely feasible task for any person who loves to work with his hands for his own pleasure. It is sometimes believed that brick chimneys are a thing of the past. This is not the case, for example, the sleeve of a brick chimney with pipes with a special coating, and the device of a brick chimney allows this to be done, allows them to be used in work with the most modern heating boilers. We hope that after reading this article, the question of how to correctly make a brick chimney for a fireplace or stove with your own hands has disappeared. Try, practice, and brick chimneys built by your own hands will delight you and your loved ones with perfect work under any conditions. Good luck to you!
Efficiency and safety heating equipment- stove and boiler, - the principle of operation of which is based on fuel combustion, is determined by the state and technical parameters of the chimney. The most demanded and reliable design for private households and baths there is a brick chimney. It features attractive appearance, good traction, and easy operation.
High-quality construction of the chimney provides for strict adherence to all stages technological process, which is associated with masonry.
When building a chimney structure for a private house, it is important to consider a number of basic rules:
In addition, when arranging a chimney, the thermal expansion parameter of the system should be taken into account.
When using flammable materials for roof installation, the chimney is equipped with a special spark arrester made of fine-mesh metal mesh (mesh size 5 × 5 mm).
Structurally, stove chimneys consist of several sections, each of which has its own purpose and technical features. The chimney design is represented by the following elements:
The main purpose of the chimney is to quickly and safely remove the combustion products of the fuel material from the combustion chamber to the outside. For this, the chimney is connected to the internal ducts with which the furnace equipment is equipped.
The fluff is a wide part of the chimney, which is located at the site of its outlet through the ceiling of the attic room. It is designed to protect floor beams from the negative effects of high temperatures. The wall thickness ranges from 32 to 40 cm, which ensures high-quality insulation up to 25 cm thick.
The otter is a technically difficult section of the chimney system, which serves to protect the roofing material and pipes from the negative effects of atmospheric precipitation and the formation of condensate. In addition, it provides the necessary space for laying the waterproofing material.
The chimney neck is a structural element that is equipped with a smoke damper to adjust the draft.
The riser is a straight piece of pipe, made with even masonry, which is located in the attic between the fluff and the otter.
The cap is part of the chimney, which forms a special visor made of brickwork, which provides the necessary protection of the pipe from external negative factors.
Iron cap - a structural element in the form of an umbrella or a cap, located above the pipe head. It is designed to protect the internal flue gas duct from clogging.
For high-quality installation of the flue system requires a preliminary calculation of the main parameters - the height of the pipe and the cross-section of the channel for the removal of gases. This will provide excellent traction and safe operation of the structure.
This parameter is determined based on technical requirements:
The presence of a parapet or ridge should not interfere with safe operation chimney. For this, the following rules are observed:
If the site is located tall structure, the chimney should be 50 cm above its roof.
If the chimney is equipped for a metal stove or for a solid fuel boiler, then the calculation of a suitable section is carried out taking into account the operating power of the equipment:
The data on the capacity of the factory heating equipment are indicated in the technical passport. For homemade devices, a similar parameter is calculated by the formula:
W = V × 0.63 × 0.8 × E / t, where
W is the power of heating equipment (kW).
V is the volume of the combustion compartment (cubic meters).
0.63 - coefficient of the average load of the combustion compartment.
0.8 is a coefficient that determines the part of the fuel material that burns completely.
E - thermal energy fuel material (kW × h / m3).
T - duration of combustion of one fuel load (hour).
Thermal energy depends on the type of wood and its moisture content.
The operation of a refractory brick chimney is carried out in special conditions with temperature changes, therefore, for its construction, it is necessary to use building material best quality... From the right choice depends on the safety and reliability of the structure, the resistance of the structure to cracking and deformation, reducing the risks of creating a fire hazardous situation.
Solid refractory bricks are made from high-quality clay by long-term firing at high temperatures. It is characterized by the following signs:
Brick is obtained with insufficient clay firing, therefore, it is characteristic of:
In addition, this material has a low heat capacity, frost resistance and durability.
Bricks of the third grade are of low quality and burnt structure. They have the following features:
Burnt blocks are not able to withstand significant mechanical loads, therefore they are prone to cracking and deformation. In addition, they do not tolerate excessive heating and cooling.
For the construction of the chimney, building material of the first grade, grades M 150 and 200, is used.
Since a brick pipe consists of separate sections, which are characterized by different weather, mechanical and temperature conditions of operation, therefore, masonry mortars are used for them.
For the preparation of masonry mortar, clay is used of medium fat content, without a pungent odor and foreign impurities that can lead to cracking of the surface.
To prepare a cement-sand mortar, it is better to use mountain sand or ground brick battle from fireclay or ceramic bricks.
The construction of a brick chimney is a technically complex process that requires high-quality masonry in order to obtain an airtight, safe and durable structure.
First, you need to choose the appropriate installation schemes for the chimney system. They can be ordered from design bureaus or found ready-made on specialized resources. The dimensions of the future chimney design are determined at the planning stage and performing the necessary calculations.
Brick chimney masonry is performed as follows:
An important stage in the construction of the chimney is the waterproofing of the pipe when passing through the roofing.
Often for these purposes, a prefabricated metal box is used, the lower part of which is hemmed with refractory material, and the inner space is filled with a heat and waterproof layer.
Outside, the roof penetration is protected by waterproof waterproofing on an elastic base. It is highly flexible and can take any desired shape. Installation is carried out using bituminous mastic or roofing screws.
Subject to construction technology you can get a safe, reliable and durable chimney. Having necessary knowledge and with minimal experience in working with bricks, you can independently organize a high-quality chimney system without the involvement of third-party specialists.
The traditional brick chimney for a gas boiler is quite in demand, despite the many existing disadvantages and low thermal performance. Despite the seeming simplicity of the design, during the construction of a channel from bricks, it is extremely important to adhere to the existing norms set forth in SNiP. The safety of operation and the efficiency of the gas equipment depend on compliance with the requirements.
The canal must be laid by a qualified bricklayer. It is better to refuse the device of a chimney for a gas boiler made of bricks with your own hands, without the presence of special construction skills. As practice shows, only an experienced stove-maker can take into account all the nuances associated with the calculation and subsequent installation of the structure.
From time to time, new requirements appear for a brick chimney for a gas boiler. Before starting construction, check with the Gas Service about the existing regulations. Up-to-date information will avoid unnecessary costs and facilitate the commissioning of the structure.
During construction, the following conditions are met: 
The disadvantage of a brick smoke exhaust system is a short service life and high requirements for the quality of masonry. It is difficult to lay out the chimney yourself correctly, so it is better to use the services of a qualified bricklayer.
When choosing combined systems, it is necessary to pay attention to the technical parameters of the core, which ultimately determine the operational characteristics of the chimney.
Before commissioning, the old brick chimneys must be insulated for use with gas boiler equipment.
This design is one of the best in terms of its characteristics. Ceramics are acid resistant and can withstand heating up to 1000 ° C. The ceramic pipe has good traction performance, heats up quickly and goes into operation. Separately standing chimney made of bricks with an internal ceramic pipe for connecting a gas boiler, used as an alternative.
Problems with a brick chimney with a ceramic core are extremely rare. The design is distinguished by a long service life and the resistance of the ceramic pipe walls to burnout. Provided correct installation, the chimney will last at least 50 years.
In terms of its thermal and aerodynamic properties, as well as the ratio of cost and durability, the leading position is occupied by a brick chimney shaft with a stainless pipe inside.
It is important to prevent the accelerated formation of condensation and provide for the possibility of regular maintenance smoke evacuation systems.
Any ceramic brick is not suitable for a smoke exhaust system, but only of a certain brand. Moreover, for the manufacture of the outer and inner parts, material with different markings is used.
The chimney can be made from facing bricks, but frost-resistant material does not tolerate heat / cooling well. After several heating seasons, the surface begins to crack and crumble. When condensation occurs, the facing material loses its strength.
It is correct to make a brick chimney for a gas boiler in a private house, from solid bricks, class "A" or "B", with strength M 250 and frost resistance F300.
If there is no financial opportunity to buy a ready-made adhesive composition, the mixture is made independently.
The ready-made composition of the solutions includes all the necessary additives and plasticizers, which allows you to make a perfectly even seam without leaving voids. The only drawback is the high cost of masonry.
The technology for insulating an external brick chimney is as follows:
To insulate a brick pipe in an unheated attic, use mineral wool... The material costs approximately two times cheaper, and in the absence of atmospheric precipitation, it performs well thermal insulation functions.
The connection of the gas boiler to the existing brick chimney is carried out only if the pipe height is sufficient and after the obligatory sleeve of the system.
Additional sealing of chimneys in brick walls for individual gas boilers is required only if ducts intended for ventilation are used.
Alternatively, you can call a specialist for cleaning. Work will cost on average from 600 to 3000 rubles. The occupied time is from 3-6 hours, depending on the degree of pollution.
