Frame houses are comfortable and reliable. Their construction requires relatively low financial costs. At the same time, the walls of such residential buildings require mandatory insulation.
Under construction on the so-called Canadian technology, are characterized by a considerable number of advantages. Their construction is beneficial from an economic point of view. For frame buildings, it is not required to fill in a powerful and deep foundation, to involve heavy and special equipment in the work. All activities are carried out quickly enough. Moreover, the construction of houses is carried out from environmentally friendly and safe materials for health.
An important stage in the arrangement of frame residential buildings is the thermal insulation of their walls. It can be produced from the inside and outside using products that must have the following qualities:
Properly selected and installed insulation provides a significant reduction in heat losses in the house, creates a favorable microclimate in it with constant humidity and temperature. Nowadays, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam are most often used as thermal insulation products for Canadian houses. Heaters can be mounted using different technologies - by installing plates, by spraying, backfilling. Combined methods of thermal protection of a building are often used (for example, mineral wool is placed in, outside there is foam plastic, which is covered decorative trim, facing materials).
Minvata is a well-known insulation material. It has excellent noise and heat insulation potential. The thermal conductivity of cotton wool depends on the density, its thickness and the level of moisture. When carrying out work on insulation, this must be taken into account. Mineral wool is always covered with film vapor barrier membranes, as well as waterproofing products. And the thickness of the layer of its laying is determined depending on weather conditions in a specific area.
It is recommended to insulate frame walls not with rolled wool, but with products produced in the form of slabs. The thickness of the insulation layer varies within the range of 13–25 cm. Installation of protective products is carried out in layers. Each subsequent layer of insulation should be placed with some offset in relation to the previous one. Then the probability of cold bridges is reduced to zero. The thickness of each layer of cotton wool should not exceed 5 cm.
The material of interest to us is usually divided into several types. There are slag, glass, eco and basalt (stone) wool. Slag wool is produced using blast-furnace slags, which are characterized by acidity (residual). For this reason, the material can negatively affect various surfaces and metal bases. It is undesirable to use slag wool for insulating facades, since it tends to quickly absorb and accumulate moisture.
Glass wool is considered to be more environmentally friendly. It is described by a sufficiently high indicator of strength and elasticity, resistance to extreme minus and minus temperatures (from +50 to -60 ° C). glass wool is made difficult by the fact that its fibers are strongly pricked. To work with such material, you have to use protective equipment. But they do not always protect inexperienced craftsmen from injuries and injections. From this point of view, the use of stone wool looks more preferable. It does not prick, is characterized by minimal flammability (fibers can melt, but not burn).
Make basalt wool from diabase with the addition of dolomite, limestone, clay. It also contains formaldehyde resins, which can provide negative impact on human health. Such problems do not exist if ecowool is used for insulation. This material is not subject to rotting and burning. When installing it with your own hands, you do not need to use moisture and vapor barrier films. Ecowool is a natural heat insulator with excellent sound and heat protection properties. It belongs to the category of sprayed thermal insulation.
Application technology mineral wool, as you understand, requires the formation of a completely sealed layer of thermal insulation, protected from condensation and moisture. In addition, it is necessary to provide for a special ventilation gap between the installed vapor barrier and the finishing cladding of the walls of the frame dwelling. An important point... There is no need to equip the vapor barrier layer from the inside. But outside, it should be mounted without fail.
The scheme of independent thermal insulation of frame structures with mineral wool is given below:
The last tip for those who plan to insulate frame walls with mineral wool. It is strictly forbidden to press too hard on the material during installation. Due to the pressure, the cotton wool layer will decrease, which will lead to a decrease in its heat-shielding qualities. The rest of the do-it-yourself process is performed quite simply and quickly.
Polyfoam is recommended for insulating frame dwellings from the outside. It resists mechanical stress well, has very high moisture-repellent capabilities and thermal conductivity. And most importantly, when using foam, there is no need to use moisture and vapor barrier materials. Another plus of this insulation is its versatility. It is allowed to be used for the interior and floor of any residential buildings.
The foam also has disadvantages. First, when it burns, it releases a whole bunch of harmful compounds into the air. Secondly, a variety of small rodents are very fond of settling in it. Thirdly, the described material is considered not environmentally friendly. Despite all these disadvantages, polystyrene is actively used to protect walls. frame houses by cold. In doing so, the following should be taken into account:
Step-by-step instructions for installing foam will be simple. First, we need to properly prepare the outer surface of the walls. We clean the frame from dirt and dust, remove all existing protrusions from it that may interfere with the installation of the material. The walls should be as flat as possible. Only in this case will we be able to achieve a snug fit of the foam sheets to the surfaces. If the frame has chips and clearly visible cracks, they must be treated with a wood primer. It is recommended to grind the remaining irregularities (minor).
After preparing the wall, we proceed to the main work. We take the glue for attaching the foam, knead it according to the manufacturer's instructions. We apply the adhesive to the surface. This operation will additionally level the wall and ensure effective fixation of the insulation sheets. Then we apply glue in strips along the edges of the foam products, as well as cakes over their area (in 5-7 places). In most cases, the adhesive must be used within 60–90 minutes after mixing. Therefore, we work carefully, but promptly.
We apply the sheets of heat insulator to the wall, press down. The joints of individual parts of the insulation should not coincide. After gluing the first row, you need to make a shift (preferably half of the sheet used). Similarly, we shift the plates in all other rows. We trim the foam with an ordinary knife. Pros advise to heat it up a little before use - cutting will go like clockwork!
When we have secured all the foam boards, there will most likely be small gaps on the wall between the individual sheets. Nothing wrong with that. The geometry of the sheets is never absolutely correct. We will need to close up the cracks that appear. There are two options here. You can mix crushed pieces of foam plastic with the glue used and cover the gaps with this mixture. It is even easier to buy polyurethane foam and blow out the gaps with it.
Since the foam is very light, strong wind can tear off the glued sheets, you need to take care of additionally fixing the insulation to the wall bases. It's simple. We make additional fixation of the heat insulator with special self-tapping screws (those that have disc-shaped and wide-sized caps) or plastic dowels. We install the hardware only after the glue has completely dried. It is undesirable to mount more than 5 screws or dowels on one plate.
From above, the foam plates are treated with acrylic plaster, which must be additionally reinforced. Operation in progress fiberglass mesh... Putty is applied on top of it (for reliability, we make two layers). At the corners of the walls, it is advisable to fix the plates of insulating material with profiles. With this approach, the layer of thermal insulation on the walls will hold, without exaggeration, forever.
The final of the work is the facing of the insulated surfaces. Most often, they are painted or decorated with wild bricks, which are popular today. We add that foam plates are allowed to be used for internal insulation frame dwellings. The principle of performing the work will be the same - we prepare the wall, apply a primer to it, mount the insulation on glue, process the resulting surface with putty, paint (we use another decorative coating).
An effective option for thermal insulation of frame houses is the use of sprayed materials. In the domestic market, they are mainly represented by polyurethane foam. This insulation is not afraid of water, demonstrates high heat-shielding properties, is truly durable, it can be evenly applied to hard-to-reach areas both outside and inside the house.
Polyurethane foam is sold in the form of containers with two liquid components. Before use, they should be mixed with each other, and then air is supplied to the resulting solution under a certain pressure. This operation is performed using special equipment. It foams polyurethane foam. The resulting foam is fed into the gaps between the frame walls, where it quickly solidifies.
Disadvantages of polyurethane foam for insulation:
But all the work can be done in the shortest possible time. And be sure that the sprayed insulation made will reliably protect the house from the cold. At the same time, the financial resources for insulation are slightly reduced due to the fact that the polyurethane foam coating does not need additional protection from steam and moisture.
Ecowool, which we have already talked about, is considered one of the most promising materials for thermal insulation of frame dwellings. It can be applied in three different ways at once:
Let us also recall the technology of thermal protection of walls, which is very rare these days. It involves the use of natural insulation. As such, sawdust concrete and a mixture of clay and straw are usually used. They just need to fill the voids between the frame supports and enjoy the warmth in your home. It turns out cheap and cheerful. But modern experts do not advise working with such materials. It is believed that they begin to rot within 3-4 years after warming. We will argue with this statement. In the vastness of Russia, you can find a lot country houses, which were insulated with sawdust concrete back in the 1970s and 1980s. Believe me, they are still reliably protected from the cold.
Home insulation with clay and sawdust
The main disadvantage of natural mixtures is that they cannot be purchased ready-made in building stores. You will have to order all the required components (sawdust, straw, etc.), and then your own with my own hands make a heat insulator out of them. It won't be easy. The process is very laborious and time consuming. You will have to chop straw, knead clay and concrete (by hand). If you carry out these operations together, in 7-8 hours of work, you can make a maximum of 2-3 cubic meters of mixture for insulation. And for thermal insulation of the walls of a small frame dwelling with a plan of 8x8 m, at least 60-70 cubic meters will be required. Think about whether you are willing to spend so much time. Maybe it's better to overpay and buy a heater ready for installation? Answer yourself to this question. Good luck!
Insulation of each house must be approached with special responsibility, since it will depend on how comfortable and warm living in it will be. Warming frame house is one of the most important stages of construction, since in such rooms the insulation is considered the only obstacle to the cold. The choice of insulation material for the frame building is also important.
About 80% of the total frame buildings insulated with mineral wool or insulation made on its basis. Therefore, it will be advisable to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for such insulation:
It is important to remember that that when working with cotton wool, especially indoors, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment, for example, gloves, respirator and goggles. Skin contact with this material can cause severe itching, redness and an allergic reaction.
In fact, the insulation of all parts of the house is practically no different from each other, but still there are some nuances, which are worth reading in detail.
The technology of floor insulation in a frame house will largely depend on the type of foundation... Since most of these houses are currently being built on a pile-screw foundation, then it is worth starting from this when insulating the floor:
Please note that cotton wool itself is not considered a windbreak, therefore, the vapor barrier and waterproofing membrane must be stretched so that there is an overlap on the walls. Thus, the ingress of wind and moisture between the floor and the wall of the frame house is excluded.
As in any other, there are two types of walls in a frame house.: external and internal. On the outside, one side is outside, while the inside walls are located entirely inside the premises. At the same time, it is necessary to insulate both. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the walls of frame houses can be insulated both from the outside and from the inside, while the quantity and materials used will not change.
During the cladding of the frame house from the outside and from the inside, they are applied different materials ... They may differ from those described in this manual. Sometimes the order of actions is different, but in general, the result is practically the same.
Description of the process of wall insulation with cotton wool, which is almost identical to floor insulation:
The main condition for insulating frame walls mineral wool is that from the inside of the room, over the insulation material, it is necessary to stretch a vapor barrier membrane that protects the insulation from moisture that comes from inside the house. On top of it, the same OSB sheets are most often stuffed as outside, but you can also use a board, slats and similar materials, depending on future finishes. At the inner corners, the membrane should not overtighten, the vapor barrier should completely repeat the angle of the frame. Otherwise, it will be quite difficult in the future to nail the trim on the corners.
The above procedure can be used the other way around: first pull the vapor barrier membrane from the inside, after which the sheathing material, and the process of insulation with cotton wool will be carried out outside.
The main distinctive features the insulation of the inner walls of frame houses is as follows:
If you do not have the opportunity to purchase soundproofing materials, then the same material can be used for insulation as for the outer walls. In this case, the thickness of the insulating layer should be much less.
The procedure for insulating the ceiling of a frame house will hardly differ from the insulation of other types of houses with wooden floors. However, this moment is one of the most critical during the thermal insulation of the entire room.
Step-by-step process for cladding a ceiling with mineral wool:
Pay attention to the fact that warm air has the ability to rise upward, therefore, if the ceiling surface or roof is not properly insulated, it will go into a large amount of heat from the frame house.
Quite often, instead of the ceiling, and sometimes together with the ceiling, the roof of a frame house is also insulated with mineral wool. This is done when attic heated or residential.
The technology will be practically no different from the thermal insulation of the ceiling. The only exception is that a waterproofing material must be stretched over the insulation, which protects the insulation from the external aggressive environment.
Like the ceiling, the roof will be much more convenient to insulate from the outside, since the installation of cotton wool from the inside is inconvenient, and the material also tends to fall on the face and head. When the rafter system is installed, a vapor barrier layer must be hemmed from below, onto which sheathing material, plywood or board is also stuffed.
Outside, sheets of insulation are laid, observing all the same rules as in the case of other parts of the frame house. A waterproofing membrane is placed on top of the insulation, which should already be filled with crate and roofing material.
The roof can be insulated from the inside, but only if it is fully assembled. Such a process will be less convenient, since you will have to come up with some kind of additional temporary fasteners.
In recent years, a frame structure is increasingly being chosen for the construction of houses, which is significantly cheaper in cost compared to the construction of brick, block, or log walls. In addition, the process of installing the frame takes much less time than raising the main walls. However, without proper insulation, it will be impossible to live in such a house. Therefore, the question of which insulation is better for a frame house becomes relevant for all potential owners of such housing.
Thermal insulation in frame buildings should not only provide a comfortable temperature regime indoors, but at the same time make the house quiet. Thus, heaters must also have good soundproofing qualities. In addition, there are a number of important criteria that must be taken into account when choosing materials for insulating the "frame". All this will be described in the proposed publication.
The first step is to figure out what properties the insulation should have in order for it to be effective for heat and sound insulation of the frame walls of the house and to be as safe as possible for the people living in the building.
So, it is necessary that the material meets the following requirements:
Thermal insulation materials can be divided into three types according to the method of application - they are filling, sprayed and slab (roll), installed between frame racks.
Each of these materials has its own characteristics and differs in technical and operational characteristics. To determine the choice, it is necessary to consider each of them in more detail, both in terms of its main qualities and from the standpoint of ease of use.
For thermal insulation of frame structures, use modern materials and traditional, familiar to builders for more than a dozen years. Since all heaters were classified above into three groups according to the method of their application, their characteristics will be considered further in accordance with this division.
This type of materials is used in construction for thermal insulation of walls, ceilings and floors along logs. These include expanded clay, granulated foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.
Expanded clay is a natural material that has been used to insulate different parts of the building for a very long time, and it fully justified its purpose. It is produced in the form of gravel (granules) of different fractions, sand and crushed stone.
Expanded clay is used in construction not only as a backfill insulation, but also in combination with concrete mortar. The latter option is called expanded clay concrete and is most often used as an insulating layer under concrete screed floors of the first floor on the ground.
Expanded clay is produced from refractory clays, which undergo special heat treatment high temperatures, are brought to melting, swelling and sintering of the material. As a result of these processes, expanded clay granules acquire a porous structure, which provides the material with low thermal conductivity. Expanded clay has the following characteristics:
Expanded clay has its own letter and digital marking from M300 to M700, but unlike other building materials, it does not indicate strength, but the bulk density of the insulation, which depends on its fraction.
The use of expanded clay for insulating frame walls can be considered a fully justified option, since this material combines excellent performance characteristics and ease of installation - they can insulate any shape of the structure. It should be noted that this material is suitable not only for filling in frames wooden walls, but also three-layer brick or reinforced concrete enclosing structures.
The disadvantage is not too outstanding thermal insulation performance compared to other materials. If expanded clay is chosen as a heater, then in order to achieve the desired effect, the thickness of its layer must be at least 200 ÷ 300 mm, or it is used in combination with other heat-insulating materials.
In addition to the well-known expanded clay, foam glass produced in granules is used in about the same way.
Foam glass is not used as widely as expanded clay, although it has higher thermal insulation performance. Apparently, this is due to the lack of information about this material. This material has been produced at Russian enterprises since the 30s of the XX century, and it is intended specifically for the insulation of buildings. Foam glass can be purchased in bulk or in the form of slabs. The divisions of the building structure are isolated with alluvial material - it is poured into the floor space along the logs, attic floors, as well as in the cavity of the frame walls.
In addition, granulated foam glass is mixed with concrete to provide insulation under the screed.
The material is an environmentally friendly product, since sand and glass breakage are used for its manufacture. Raw materials are crushed to a powdery state, then mixed with carbon. The last component promotes foaming of the charge and gas formation - this process makes the material porous, filled with air and light. Granules are made in special furnaces with rotating chambers, into which preforms - pellets are filled in advance. The fraction of granules can be different - large, having a size of 8 ÷ 20 mm, medium - 5 ÷ 7 mm and small 1.5 ÷ 5 mm. The main characteristics of this material are presented in the comparative table at the end of the publication.
expanded clay
Foam glass is a chemical and biological resistant, moisture resistant, solid material. In addition, it does not collect or emit dust, and does not contain substances that allergy sufferers are sensitive to. The hardness of the material and the absence of any nutrients whatsoever protects it from rodents.
The disadvantages of loose foam glass can only be attributed to its high cost. True, if you closely calculate the "accounting" of insulation and compare it with the cheaper expanded clay, then it is still worth seeing which material will be more profitable.
Loose foam glass is laid in the same way as expanded clay.
Ecowool (dry laying)
This material can be classified as a relative novelty in the field of insulation, but it is gradually gaining popularity due to its merits. To insulate frame structures, ecowool is used in two versions - dry, backfilled in a cavity, or by "wet" technology - by spraying on the surface. The second method requires the use of special equipment, while the first one can be done on our own.
Ecowool is a mixture of paper waste and cellulose fibers, which occupy about 80% of the total weight of the insulation. In addition, the material contains a natural antiseptic - boric acid, which takes up to 12%, as well as a fire retardant - sodium tetraborate - 8%. These substances increase the resistance of the insulation to external influences.
Ecowool goes on sale in hermetically sealed plastic bags, in loose form, therefore, when choosing a dry method of wall insulation, it can be used immediately.
Ecowool has the following characteristic features:
When ecowool is dry laid into a wall, its consumption is 45 ÷ 70 kg / m³. Before carrying out work, the material is fluffed with an electric drill. It should be borne in mind that over time, dry cotton wool will sag by about 15%, so the insulation must be tamped well. It is also important to know that when this material is fluffed up, there will be a large amount of dust and debris in the room, therefore it is best to do the work on the street or in outbuildings, and Airways must be protected by wearing a respirator.
Warming of walls with dry ecowool is done in two ways - backfilling and blowing.
The filling is done manually, into the gradually erected formwork, and the blowing is done into the space completely closed by the sheathing fixed on the frame racks. In order to blow out, special equipment is needed, into which ecowool is poured, fluffed up, and then, under pressure, is fed into the empty space of the frame sheathed on both sides through the drilled holes.
The stages of work on backfilling ecowool will be discussed below.
Sawdust cannot be called a popular insulation, although they have been used for this purpose from time immemorial. We can say that this natural material has been replaced by modern synthetic insulation. However, there are craftsmen who to this day do not abandon sawdust and shavings, successfully insulating the walls of frame houses with them.
It is believed that for the first time sawdust began to be used for insulating frame buildings in Finland, where the climate is more severe than in most regions of Russia, and it should be noted that the material fully justified its purpose. But we must not forget that sawdust has not only advantages, but also its disadvantages, which you also need to know about.
To achieve the desired heat-insulating effect, it is necessary to choose sawdust of hard wood - these are beech, maple, hornbeam, oak, alder and maybe pine, the moisture content of which should be no more than 20% of the total mass.
The disadvantages of sawdust used for insulation in pure form, without processing them with special compounds, include the following features:
Taking into account all the features of this natural insulation material, master builders have developed mixtures in which there are additives that level all the disadvantages of sawdust.
For the manufacture of such an insulating mixture, in addition to sawdust, the following materials will be required:
Clay or cement is used in sawdust, if it is prepared for insulating an attic floor, for floors, sawdust is mixed with lime, and for walls, a sawdust-gypsum mixture is usually used.
The process of making a mixture for insulating frame walls can be considered in the following proportions, based on mixing it in a construction wheelbarrow with a volume of 150 liters:
How the formwork is built will be discussed below, in the section on installation work.
This table presents a more accurate composition of a sawdust-gypsum mixture, laid with a thickness of 150 mm for insulating a house with a certain wall surface area.
| Parameter name | Numerical indicators | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| House wall area, (m2) | 80 | 90 | 100 | 120 | 150 |
| Sawdust quantity (in bags) | 176 | 198 | 220 | 264 | 330 |
| Amount of gypsum, (kg) | 264 | 297 | 330 | 396 | 495 |
| The amount of copper sulfate or boric acid, (kg) | 35.2 | 39.6 | 44 | 52.8 | 66 |
The method of wall insulation with any backfill insulation material is almost identical, however, there are some nuances for each of them. It should be noted that there is nothing difficult in warming frame structure no, and the work can be easily done by yourself:
If you plan to use sprayed materials for insulation, then you immediately need to prepare for the extra costs of their installation, since special equipment is used for it. Moreover, installations for spraying polyurethane foam differ from those that are intended to work with ecowool.
The application of ecowool, in addition to filling in the cavity, is also carried out by the "wet" or glue method. The fact is that the composition of cellulose includes a natural adhesive - lignin, and when the raw material is moistened, the ecowool fibers acquire adhesion ability.
This quality of the material allows it to be used for thermal insulation of vertical surfaces. Wall insulation is done in two ways:
Both spraying and blowing of ecowool into the space between the frame posts is carried out under pressure, which is created using special equipment.
In the capacity of the apparatus there are special mechanical "mixers" for fluffing, whipping ecowool and moistening it throughout the entire volume
Dry ecowool is filled into the bunker, where it is moistened and mixed, and then enters the corrugated sleeve, through which it is sprayed onto the surface under pressure or blown into the sheathed frame.
If the wall is to be filled through a hole, then first it is drilled into the sheathing plywood. Then, a rubber seal and a pipe are installed into the resulting hole, through which fluffed and moistened ecowool is fed.
When spraying cotton wool on the surface and after leveling it, the insulation is closed with a windproof material, after which you can proceed to the outer skin of the frame.
Today, you can find simpler sets of equipment for blowing and spraying ecowool, for independent use. However, when using such a device, the ecowool will have to be fluffed manually before filling it, and this additional time and a large amount of dust, which in a professional device is collected in a special dust bag.
Frame houses are gaining more and more popularity, however, this European trend in the Russian climate requires significant thermal insulation, as well as protection from wind and moisture. Experts recommend insulating the walls of a frame house not only from the outside, but also from the inside.
Several decades ago, to keep the house warm, a mixture of clay with straw, sawdust or shavings was poured into the walls of frame houses. At one time sawdust concrete was also popular, but these materials have long been out of use, although they do not lose their attractiveness due to their cheapness. IN modern houses on the basis of the frame for insulation, they mainly use mineral wool (glass wool, stone wool) and foam.
Mineral wool has a number of advantages - they are fireproof, which is especially important for houses made of wooden frames, have low thermal conductivity, are easy to install, are available in a form convenient for builders (mats, rolls) and are light enough. The disadvantage of this insulation is that it cannot be called environmentally friendly, since it contains formaldehydes in small doses. In addition, moisture is contraindicated for him. Most often, mineral wool is used for external insulation, since for internal works it is not always convenient and safe to use this material.
Very quickly, among building materials, foam plastic was knocked out into the category of the most popular materials for thermal insulation. It is made from granules of polymer plastics, which are filled with carbon dioxide or natural gas.
Foam plates are very lightweight, easy to install, do not conduct heat and are environmentally friendly at normal temperatures. Insulation of this kind is not susceptible to rotting and the appearance of fungus, therefore, during its installation, additional layers of steam and waterproofing may not be required.
Perhaps the most important advantage of polystyrene is its modest cost. Its main disadvantage is the possibility of ignition and the release of substances harmful to human health during combustion. True, there is a fire-resistant version of this material - extruded polystyrene foam, which is also more compact.... All types of foam, oddly enough, can easily be spoiled by rodents, which is another significant drawback.
Polyurethane foam (PPU) is a sprayed type of thermal insulation that has the highest degree of heat retention and tolerates moisture very well. Spraying takes place using special equipment, in which the active components are mixed and, falling on the surface, instantly foamed, forming a dense crust. PPU can be sprayed on almost any surface, even glass and metal, regardless of its position. The vulnerability of polyurethane foam is sunlight. When exposed to direct sunlight, its service life is approximately halved. But you can protect PPU from the sun by ordinary painting. Another disadvantage is that special equipment is needed to work with this material.
For waterproofing and wind insulation, builders often use glassine - thick paper impregnated with bitumen. However, its use as protection against moisture and wind is undesirable, since glassine does not allow moisture emanating from the house to pass through and contributes to its accumulation inside the frame. In modern practice, builders are increasingly using superdiffusion hydro-windproof membranes, which have a huge vapor permeability compared to glassine and perfectly protect the house from wind and moisture from the outside.
First, let's understand some basic principles, without which the insulation of the walls of such a house can be a waste of money. First, when wondering how to insulate a frame house from the inside, you need to think not only about the walls. Floor and ceiling can also let in cold! Secondly, thermal insulation materials must be reliably protected from moisture by external and internal waterproofing. Thirdly, when laying the insulation, it is important to observe the gaps necessary for ventilation between the material and the wall surfaces.
Before starting the installation of the insulation, clean the walls, floor and ceiling from dust and dirt. If there are any protruding nails or screws, remove them. The existing gaps between the elements of the frame of the house are filled with polyurethane foam. Via construction hair dryer if necessary, dry damp areas of the frame.
The site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the heat loss of a building.
In the event that external thermal insulation using waterproofing was nevertheless carried out in the house, it is not necessary to re-install another layer of moisture protection inside the house, otherwise this may lead to the accumulation of excess moisture inside the structure and its rapid destruction. We will consider the option of insulating the house only from the inside.
We measure the walls of the frame house and cut the waterproofing material we have chosen into the corresponding strips. Using a construction stapler, we attach it to the racks, completely sheathing the frame. It is best to lay the waterproofing with an overlap, leaving about 10 cm under the top layer.Mounting is carried out at the junction every 10 cm.
Even in the case of using materials that are not afraid of moisture as a heater, it is still necessary to perform a vapor barrier. The reason for the seemingly superfluous costs at first glance is that in addition to the insulation itself, there are other elements in the wall frame that should be protected from steam penetrating from the inside of the building into the walls, for example, the same wood.
For vapor barrier use a special film or foamed polyethylene. This material is also attached to the frame racks with a construction stapler close to the insulation. Sometimes builders simply wrap thermal insulating blocks in such a film, but this is not entirely correct - as already noted, all elements of the frame must be protected from steam. The joints of the film, as in the case of waterproofing, should be done with an overlap of at least 10 cm. For greater vapor barrier, all joints and abutments of this layer should be glued with double-sided tape. When installing a vapor barrier, keep in mind that its thickness does not in any way reduce the thickness of the main insulation.
For year-round operation of a frame house and its durable service, it is necessary high-quality insulation... You need to insulate everything - walls, ceiling, roof, floor. What materials and technologies are applicable for solving the problem, and what heat insulators are better to refuse? We will answer these questions and give step by step instructions for home insulation with your own hands.
The frames of houses built according to the "Canadian" technology are assembled from OSB or wood. In order for the insulation not to cause damage to structures, it must have sufficient vapor permeability - not less than 0.32 Mg.
Fibrous heat insulators - mineral wool materials - fully comply with this requirement. Popular synthetic insulation materials, such as polystyrene and polymer-based analogs, cannot be used in wooden structures for two reasons:
When choosing how to insulate a frame house, in addition to vapor permeability, additional properties of a heat insulator should be taken into account. The following indicators are welcomed:
Mineral wool heat insulators are the most acceptable option for insulating a frame house. Materials are made from different raw materials, which determine the basic characteristics and scope. The general advantages of all types of mineral wool include: low weight, fire safety, resistance to pests and the necessary vapor permeability.
The main disadvantage of fiber insulators- hygroscopicity. To preserve the properties of the insulation, mineral wool needs high-quality vapor and waterproofing.
The main component of the insulation is rocks of volcanic origin: basalite, diarite and basalt. Stone wool is a completely non-combustible material that can withstand temperatures of 1000 ° C. The heat insulator keeps physical properties for 40-50 years.
The main advantages of basalt-based mineral wool:
The composition of the insulation includes hydrophobic additives that provide quick moisture removal. Basalt heat insulator is produced in slabs, the density of the material is 35-50kg / cu. m.
The disadvantage of stone wool in comparison with fiberglass counterparts is less elasticity and susceptibility to rodents.
The basic components of a heat insulator are glass breakage and sand. The addition of binders makes it possible to form rolls from the finest fiberglass. Approximate dimensions of mats: thickness - 100 mm, width - 1200 mm, length - 10 m.
Features of glass wool:
As well as stone wool, fiberglass is fireproof. However, in comparison with the previous insulation, loses on several points:
A new word in the segment of thermal insulation materials -. The material is 80% recycled paper. Additional components: boric acid and sodium tetraborate. Minor ingredients provide protection against microorganisms and reduce flammability.
Distinctive features of ecowool:
The main advantages of ecowool: environmental friendliness, the possibility of insulation hard-to-reach places and high soundproofing qualities.
This group is represented by mats and boards made of wood fiber materials... The technical and operational characteristics of the insulation are at a fairly high level:
Wood-fiber insulation "breathes" and helps to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house. The disadvantages of a heat insulator include: high cost and flammability.
In most cases, for the insulation of frame structures, it is used mineral wool in the form of mats... Therefore, the subsequent instruction will be based on the work with this particular material.
First of all, you should understand the structure of the insulating cake, calculate the material and prepare the surface for laying. It doesn't matter which side to start work - from the outside or from the inside. Some people think that it is more convenient to carry out thermal insulation from the side of the street. However, weather factors must be taken into account.
The standard structure of an insulating cake with a sequence of layers from interior cladding to the front of the house:
Recommended the step of frame beams is 580-590 mm. This range is optimal when using standard 60 cm wide mineral wool mats. According to the standards, the thickness of the insulation for a temperate climate is 150 mm. To fill the space between the beams of 15 cm, it is advisable to use mineral wool of two standard sizes: 50 and 100 mm.
Surface preparation is reduced to cleaning from dust, removing protruding nails and blowing out the cracks with polyurethane foam between the frame elements. Before attaching the insulation, it is necessary to check wooden structures for the presence of dampness, dry problem areas with a construction hairdryer.
First you need to prepare a base for laying insulation. From the inside of the house, this role will be performed by vapor barrier film and OSB boards.
Procedure:
In the future, OSB boards will serve as the basis for applying finishing walls.
An important advantage of using mineral wool or wood fiber insulation is the ease of fastening with your own hands. Both heat insulators are resilient enough, so they do not need additional fixation. The slabs are inserted between the frame posts and are held in place due to the slight difference in dimensions.
So that the thermal insulation layer does not lose its effectiveness over time, it is necessary to follow certain rules for its installation:
The film insulation is fixed with a stapler. For a more secure attachment, you can use the counter-crate system.
Bars attached to the top of the wind barrier create the necessary air gap between thermal insulation material and exterior decoration. Further insulation of the facade depends on the material of the finishing cladding.
Under and siding different types slabs of moisture-resistant OSB are nailed to the crate, to which guide bars are attached. Artificial, a natural stone or facade tiles fits directly onto oriented strand boards.
High-quality roof insulation is of great importance in preserving heat. Thought-out and competently executed thermal insulation of the roof of a frame house saves 25-30% of thermal energy.
A popular option for insulation is the placement of mineral wool between the rafter legs. Roofing cake must be supplemented with a vapor barrier film and a diffusion membrane.
Let us describe sequentially, how to properly insulate the roof:
A lot of heat also goes through the base of the house - about 15-20% of the heat costs are on the floor. Alternatively, you can organize a water underfloor heating... However, it is easier and cheaper to insulate the base with mineral wool.
The described technology is suitable for insulation of interfloor or attic floors.
The second most popular material for thermal insulation of frame buildings is ecowool. But here it is better not to experiment and entrust the work to professionals. The mechanized backfill will provide the required density and uniformity of the paving.
There are three methods of using ecowool:
Dry method applicable for horizontal surfaces, inclined closed cavities, filling interfloor floors and non-separable structures. The density of ecowool laying with this method is 45-65 kg / cubic meter. m depending on the slope.
Wet technology suitable for vertical open walls... Ecowool flakes are moistened and applied to the surface under pressure. The density of the insulating layer is about 65 kg / cubic meter. m.
The glue method is similar to the previous one, but an adhesive component is added instead of water. The advantages of the technique: high adhesion of the insulation to the wall, elasticity of the material and low deformation after drying. The glue method is indispensable for thermal insulation of flows from below, the option is also suitable for processing walls.
The issue of house insulation must be considered even at the construction stage. It is more profitable from a financial point of view and technically correct. Structural elements are insulated as the building is erected, and there is no need to perform overhaul buildings after commissioning.
More information about the technology of home insulation is described in the video.
