Aligning the walls with drywall frameless method. Application different technologies to various rough surfaces. The use of props and struts. Fixation on self-tapping screws, foam, installation of beacons.
Plasterboard leveling is the most popular type renovation works, characterized by speed and quality. There are 2 methods for fixing the gypsum board: frame and frameless.
Drywall without frame on the wall - fast a budget option, which has its advantages. Methods for gluing the gypsum board to the surface, as well as fixing the sheets with self-tapping screws, are discussed below.
To level the surface of the gypsum board, the following methods are applicable:
Fixation of material without a profile is performed in such cases:
The lathing takes at least 12 cm of free space in the room.
The frameless method has its drawbacks:
With relatively flat walls, it is advisable to mount the gypsum board using a frameless method.
To fix the gypsum board without lathing, you can use the following methods:
All methods of fixing the sheet to the rough base are applicable for different surface irregularities.
The frameless method has features and solves problems:
Fixing the gypsum board to the rough surface will be strong only after the correct selection of the adhesive composition.
The cladding of the base without a profile is permissible only with irregularities of no more than 2 cm. To apply this method, you need materials, tools:
After collecting all the materials and tools, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.
To do this, the walls must be cleaned of the previous coating - paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster... The entire surface is cleaned of dust and primed.
A plumb line is suspended from the ceiling to determine the overall curvature vertically.
Next, there is the preparation of drywall. If the installation is carried out alone, then the drywall sheet must be cut out for convenience. Holes for sockets and switches are cut out in the prepared material. On the cut end parts of the material, they make a chamfer with a plane or a milling cutter.
Installation of gypsum board without a profile is possible on glue if the differences are no more than 2 cm. It is better to apply the glue with "blobs". They are distributed evenly over the sheet, after which, the material with the adhesive composition is leaned against the rough base. It is necessary to align the sheet - it must be strictly vertical.
After that, lightly tapping on the gypsum board, the roughness of the rough base is filled with glue, the excess goes beyond the boundaries. They are removed with a spatula. The sheet must be fixed with a holder for glue setting. Only after the composition has solidified, proceed to the installation of the next sheet.
If the base has an unevenness of more than 2 cm, then use a different method from the adhesive. A lattice of wooden slats is mounted on the rough surface. If there are none, then the GKL sheet is cut into strips 10 cm wide. The strips are glued to the wall using an adhesive composition. We must wait until it dries completely. At the joints of the gypsum board, there should be strips 16 cm wide - 8 for each sheet. All glued beacons must be strictly vertical. Aligned to the level.
The evenness of the glued beacons should also be checked diagonally with the rule.
With the help of wooden laths-lighthouses, the rough wall is leveled and the gypsum board is sewn up.
There is another option to fasten the finishing material to the rough surface without a frame. This is wall cladding with self-tapping screws. However, this method is applicable when the surface is flat and there are no drops.
There are nuances here:
Screw the self-tapping screw into brickwork not difficult. Here drywall serves as a dry plaster for the base.
V concrete plates it is difficult to screw in the self-tapping screw, therefore, use a dowel and nails. They do it like this:
GKL is fixed on the wall. For strength, additional holes are created in the sheet and polyurethane foam, which serves as glue, is admitted through them.
After fixing the drywall to the surface, reinforce the joints and putty.
After fixing the first GK-sheet to the rough surface, the adhesive composition should set. To do this, you need to fix the sheet additionally. In order not to keep the sheet near the wall for an hour or more, use additional fastening:
If you do not use a support for the material during the hardening of the adhesive, then the gypsum board may not stick or fix poorly and eventually fall off.
Brickwork has a number of features that must be taken into account when fixing the gypsum board.
There are two ways to solve the problem of installing gypsum on a brick:
Use the foam that has the smallest expansion coefficient - for expanded polystyrene.
Installation of cladding material with self-tapping screws and foam:
After the foam dries (about a day), the screws are removed along with the washers. Instead of them, they screw in the usual self-tapping screws, "drowning" the caps a little.
The concrete wall does not have large drops, so the gypsum board is fixed with glue.
Do not apply gypsum compositions to concrete due to the incompatibility of the incoming elements. Better to use acrylic glue.
Before gluing the material, the surface is prepared. Namely:
After that:
If the wall has a curvature, beacons made of wooden slats or cut strips of gypsum board are used.
Before installing drywall on the walls, you should familiarize yourself with the tips and recommendations of the masters:
Having completed the installation technique correctly, as well as applying the recommendations of the masters, the wall surface will be flat and ready for further finishing. Plasterboard construction will last 10-15 years if there are no sudden changes in temperature and constantly high humidity in the room.
One of the rough finishing methods is surface shaping, when plasterboard is installed on walls without a frame. In the article, we will consider effective technologies involving the installation of plasterboard directly on the wall surface, and also designate a list of materials required for this.
The main method of forming a wall structure from gypsum plasterboard sheets is their installation on a pre-built frame. This technology is a priority, as it allows you to quickly create an ideal surface, regardless of the quality of the base wall. The space between the profile and the wall is convenient to use for hidden laying of various communications: electric wires in a protective corrugation, water and heating pipes.
But the frame method of installing gypsum boards has several disadvantages:
If you need to level the walls in a small room (bathroom, toilet, corridor), "steal" up to 7 cm of usable space on the cladding of each wall is an unaffordable luxury, especially when no hidden laying of complex communications or additional insulation or sound insulation is expected. In this situation, it is wiser to create a surface for subsequent finishing by fixing drywall to a wall without profiles. Sheets are attached directly to the wall using glue solutions, foam or dowel screws.
Sometimes these materials are used in a complex manner, for example, foam plus dowels, or assembly glue plus foam. This does not mean that one way to attach drywall precludes the use of another. In addition to compactness, the frameless method of installing drywall on the wall has several more advantages:
The lack of rough plasterboard finishing of walls without a frame and profiles is the impossibility high-quality installation with a large longitudinal or vertical curvature of the base wall (more than 6 cm within one sheet). Another feature is the high requirements for the gypsum board itself. Sheathing sheets should be minimally deformed. If the slight curvature of gypsum plasterboard sheets does not matter when mounted on a frame to which they are rigidly attracted, then the frameless method involves a floating installation, therefore it is important to store and transport the material correctly, preventing its deformation. GCR purchased ahead of time cannot be stored in wet rooms, especially in a standing position, leaning them against the wall. Sheets should be laid out on a flat floor or rack.
To attach the gypsum board to the base surface, several materials are used, which are specialized and universal. The first group includes special compounds designed for installing drywall to a wall without profiles. These are dry packaged mixtures based on polymer-cement or gypsum. The most demanded representative of specialized compounds is gypsum glue. Knauf Perlfix preferred by most professionals. It is packaged dry in 30 kg bags.
The advantages of this glue:
The second most frequently used material is polyurethane foam, which belongs to universal clamps, used not only to fix drywall. Polyurethane foam is more often used to fix small fragments of gypsum boards, when refining door and window slopes, or in combination with gypsum glue to fill large voids and better adhere the sheets to walls with a large curvature.
Less commonly used are polymer adhesives - liquid nails. The use of such glue is justified only in cases of mounting small fragments on a reliable and even base. Liquid nails do not make it possible to adjust the position of the sheet relative to the base surface. Dowel screws are sometimes used as auxiliary fasteners. They additionally attract gypsum boards with the main use of the adhesives listed above. Instead of dowels, you can take black self-tapping screws of the required length with a base surface made of wood or loose porous building materials (shell rock, aerated concrete, foam blocks).
The use of glue allows you to create a plasterboard surface that is practically not inferior in quality to that when installing the gypsum board on the crate. For work, you will need the following tools and materials:
When you have stocked up with everything you need, proceed to surface preparation. Gypsum glue adheres perfectly to any construction and finishing materials(various bricks, classic and porous concrete, cement-sand and lime plaster). The main requirement for high-quality adhesion of the glue to the base is the absence of dust and many unreliable areas. The latter are removed, after which the wall is primed. Before priming, we recommend knocking down areas of masonry material or plaster (if any) that are sharply protruding above the total surface with a hammer or perforator. This will facilitate the work and significantly reduce the consumption of glue.
To prepare the glue solution, pour water into a container (plastic bucket) at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6-1.7 kg of dry mixture (this is according to the instructions). It is easier to do this: pour water a little more than a third of the bucket, gradually pour the dry mixture into it. When a hill of dry glue appears above the surface of the water, mix with a mixer. If the resulting mass does not leave a depression after removing the rotating mixer, add the dry mixture. If, with thorough mixing, areas of non-wetted solution remain, and the mixer is rotated with a load, add water.
Having selected and prepared one of the walls for work, first "probe" its relief and deviation from the vertical with the rule and level, during which a "picture" will be formed, giving an idea of where the greater and where the minimum layer of glue is needed. Then you need to decide on the general direction of the future drywall surface. To do this, it is convenient to pull a thread along the wall along the bottom (5-7 cm above the floor), which will be a guide for installing the outer surface of the sheets.
The thread is stretched taking into account the surface relief so that the installed sheet does not rest against the existing protrusions of the base wall.
If the wall is not very crooked ("walks" no more than 3 cm within the area of the sheet to be fixed), installation is carried out without preliminary installation of additional supports. In the presence of significant concavities, strips or squares of plasterboard scraps that remain after cutting the sheets are pre-glued. If there are none or few, you will have to donate a whole sheet for this, cutting it into the necessary substrates. When the glue fixing the wall-trimming linings has hardened, proceed to gluing the whole (or cut out to the right size) sheets.
Gypsum glue is applied to the base surface over the entire area of the gypsum board to be installed. It is inconvenient to apply the solution to drywall. First, it greatly increases its mass, which makes it difficult to move. Secondly, by forming slides of glue on the wall, it is easier to control their required size and the degree of protrusion above the common surface. The glue is applied randomly, but evenly and in such a way that a fourth or fifth of the sheet is glued. In the area of the plinth and the intended fasteners of the attached objects, it is more expedient to make the glue pad solid. Now that the glue mass is already on the wall, we do the following:
The rest of the walls are also closed, after which further finishing is performed on the surface, which is no different from that on drywall, which was fixed on a frame made of profiles.
Polyurethane foam is a versatile construction adhesive and sealant. The polyurethane material adheres reliably to almost all surfaces. This property of construction foam is sometimes used for local installation of gypsum board. How to fix drywall to a wall without profiles using polyurethane foam?
It is necessary to apply foam on a piece of sheet material cut out to size in strips or pointwise (taking into account the space left for its expansion) and firmly adhere to the base surface. The desired position of the plasterboard fragment is regulated by dowel screws or self-tapping screws. They will not allow the drywall to move under the pressure of the expanding polyurethane. After 2-3 hours, the plasterboard is securely fixed and ready for subsequent finishing.
Often there is a need to align the walls in the apartment. One of the simplest and available funds is the installation of drywall, and by doing it yourself, you can significantly save the family budget.
Before proceeding directly to work, you need to decide on the required material.
In any good hardware store you will be offered a choice of 4 types of drywall, this
Advice: choose drywall with UK and PLUK markings to avoid the formation of protrusions due to which the layer of putty increases during finishing!
What to look for when buying drywall:
For the installation of walls or the construction of drywall partitions, the following types of profiles are used:
Installation of the rack-mount profile is carried out in a guide profile of the appropriate size;
Advice: When buying a profile, you should pay attention to its quality. The profile should be chosen rigid, this will increase the quality of the work performed 
U-shaped hangers are used to fasten the rack profiles to the wall.
Before going to a hardware store, you need to decide on the amount of material that you need.
To buy drywall, you need to calculate how many sheets we need, for this we do the following:
To calculate the number of profiles, you can use the following sequence:
The calculation of the number of self-tapping screws for drywall is performed as follows:
The calculation of the number of dowels for attaching the guide profile and U-shaped hangers is carried out as follows:
Standard dowels are used with a size of 6x40 mm, with a mushroom head.
Quantity calculation 
self-tapping screws (press washers) for fastening the rack profile is carried out as follows:
You can read more about all the tools in the article.
Before marking and installing the frame, you need to prepare workplace... If there were wallpapers on the walls before, then it is advisable to peel them off, and soak the wall with an antifungal primer, but if the room is dry and without variable humidity, this stage can be skipped.
Sequence of work:
Advice: Perfectly right angles between walls in rooms are rare. Especially in old buildings. The distance between them at different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking the future frame, you should take this into account and bind not to one wall, but to two parallel ones. In this case, the distances are averaged. This will avoid the visual curvature of the resulting room.
Having made the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. To do this, you can use a plumb line or laser level, this will greatly simplify the task.
If there is an assistant, then inserting the rack profile, cut to the height of the wall, into the guide, using building level you can move the point from the floor to the ceiling.
When all the lines are drawn, you can proceed with the installation of the guide profile. All profiles that are attached to existing structures are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The first are the profile guides to the floor and ceiling. They are fixed with dowel-nails every 40-50 cm and along the edges. 
After installing the guide profile, the rack-mount ones are set, at a distance of 60 cm from each other, measured from the centers of the profiles. The length of the rack profile should be 1-1.5 cm shorter than the height of the wall, otherwise it will be energized and give an uneven wall surface.
Advice: masters do not recommend leaving drywall strips less than 10 cm, so if the length of the wall is not a multiple of the number of drywall sheets and just a strip of 10 centimeters or less remains, then the first and subsequent profiles should be shifted so that sheets in width lay down from the edges of the wall more than 10 cm (preferably 30-40 cm).
When all the rack profiles are exposed, it is necessary to strengthen the structure with U-shaped suspensions, making sure that all the profiles remain in the same plane.
After fixing the suspensions, we set the jumpers between the rack profiles with a step of 60 cm.
In order to save material, sometimes not all jumpers are installed, but only at the level of possible future loads according to the knee-belt-shoulder rule.
The lintels are made from the same profile as the frame posts. I use crabs to attach them to the racks, but most often they use self-tapping screws. To do this, the rack profile is cut into 60 cm and on each edge the side walls are cut off with 4-5 cm scissors to form an ear that is attached to the rack profile with press washers.
If you plan to insulate or soundproof the wall, as well as the wiring of all wiring is done before fixing the drywall sheets to the frame.
After installing all the jumpers and all additional operations, you can proceed to fixing the drywall to the frame.
The fixing of drywall should be staggered so that there is no joining line along the entire wall, along which a crack can go during the operation of the room. If the wall is sheathed in two layers, then the seams of the first layer should also not coincide with the seams of the second layer. 
The fastening of the sheet to the profile should be started from the middle, gradually going to the edges or from one corner to another, in order to avoid loose adhesion of the sheets to the frame. The recommended step of fastening with self-tapping screws is not more than 25 cm.
The gap between the sheets and the floor should be within 10 mm to avoid sheet warping flooring during its freewheel while walking.
The sheets should not fit snugly against each other, there should be a gap of 5 mm between them. 
At first, you can wind only whole sheets, and leave the trimming for later, so you will save yourself time without constantly switching to different operations.
Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the drywall at right angles. The caps of the self-tapping screws must be completely recessed into the sheet, this is necessary for a smooth further puttying of the walls.
After the entire wall is sheathed with sheets of drywall, at all non-factory joints, we cut off the chamfer at an angle of approximately 45 ′ (on each side of the joint, we cut off the gypsum at an angle of 20-22 ′). This is necessary so that after the wall putty, the joints are not noticeable.
You can watch the approximate work on the installation of drywall walls in the following video:
After finishing the installation of drywall on the frame, you can proceed to finishing the wall, which consists in filling the surface of the entire wall.
Before puttingtying, it is necessary to prime the entire wall, special attention should be paid to the joints of the drywall sheets.
First of all, all the seams of the head of the screws on the wall are filled with putty, after it dries a little, we close the seams with a serpentine or fiberglass. After that, we putty the seams over the serpyanka, and then go to the entire plane of the wall. After the putty has completely dried, it must be primed again to perform the following work, be it painting or wallpapering. You can see how to perform wall filling work in this video:
You can learn more about plastering drywall walls from our articles on the site.
If you have any questions about working with drywall, you can ask them in the comments.
More and more builders are choosing to use drywall instead of other materials. After all, it is easy to work with this material, and with its help they perform a wide range of tasks. Thanks to the gypsum board, even the most curved walls can become perfectly flat without cracks and drops. And creating a single or multi-level ceiling will not be difficult. Many designers turn to drywall to create unique interiors with decorative niches and arches.
Mounting drywall on the wall wireframe
An indisputable plus of GCR is its versatility, which was mentioned above. In addition, drywall does not crumble over time, with proper use, there are no cracks or irregularities.
Drywall sheets will help to bring to life any design idea Another important argument is that drywall is suitable for conducting pipes, cables and wires in the voids of the structure. Even when it comes to cladding water pipes or about rooms with high humidity, then gypsum boards with moisture-resistant properties can help here.
We also note the environmental friendliness of this material. Neither gypsum nor cardboard emit harmful substances during operation.
Having conceived the installation of gypsum board on the walls, first prepare all the accessories. Remember that only the right technology laying will create high-quality walls.
Choose drywall based on the site of application. In places with high humidity, GKLV will do an excellent job. And in rooms where flammable products are stored, fireproof GKLO is suitable. The more properties the GCR has, the more expensive it is. But using standard sheets in conditions not intended for it, it is fraught with damage to the coatings.
In addition to the gypsum board sheets themselves, you will need a profile of several types and accessories - dowels, screws, etc. Tool list:
This is what the main toolbox looks like. The most laborious process is the installation of the wall frame for the gypsum board. The correct technology for laying the profile along the markings is important here.
If you are faced with the question of choosing a frame made of galvanized steel or wood, then we will immediately notice that the use of wood implies risks. They are that the tree itself is very unpredictable. construction material... It does not have durability, is prone to rotting and deterioration at high humidity.
When working with concrete and brick surfaces, dowels 40 millimeters long are used. In cases where the frame is attached to more soft materials, it is recommended to use long dowels (80 mm). When cladding walls made of wood, you can safely use self-tapping screws.
Marking technology requires focus and correct use tool. The best assistant here is the laser level. But to purchase such expensive equipment for one-time laying of gypsum boards on the wall is irrational. Therefore, markup is more often done using a regular layer and additional components.
Thanks to the laser level, professionals make markings in minutes Having measured the required distance for carrying out communications and laying insulation, a plumb line is fixed on the ceiling, closer to the corner of the wall. At the point where it touches the floor, make a mark (screw in a self-tapping screw). This procedure is performed in every corner of the room. Then, in order to facilitate the marking process, stretch the thread between the horizontal points. Transferring the lines to the ceiling and floor, the threads are removed. Now you can start mounting the profile.
When marking, remember that the wider the indent from the base of the wall, the more the area of the room is "eaten up". A profile is mounted along this line, and the gypsum board, putty and the final coating will increase the thickness by another 1.5-2 centimeters. But the minimum indentation should still be at least four centimeters. Apply the drawing so that it does not rub off after a few careless movements along the lines.
Surface marking The profile installation technology is simple and requires only the correct execution of all steps. The guides are fixed with dowels to the ceiling and floor, it is recommended to use a sealing tape. Galvanized steel is cut with metal scissors.
Next, mark the places where the rack profiles will be installed. They are attached at a distance of 40-60 centimeters (measured from the center of the previous profile). This will allow the installation of drywall joints directly in the center of the profile.
If you plan to mount heavy objects on the wall (kitchen cabinets, shelves, plasma TV), then it is recommended to install the profile at intervals of 40 centimeters with horizontal jumpers in the places of future fastening. This will simplify further installation of attachments and prevent fasteners from pulling out of the walls.
Rack profiles are carefully inserted first into the lower guides, and then into the upper ones according to the given markings. After that, the racks are attached to the wall using hangers.
The process of assembling a metal frame for cladding Horizontal profiles are needed in order to secure the joints of drywall and give greater rigidity in the places of future installation of attachments. After fixing all the elements, the frame is ready for the final stage of wall installation.
Further technology involves conducting communications and laying insulation. You can do without wall insulation, but as practice shows, this helps not only to retain heat, but also to create the best soundproofing of the room.
The final stage involves the installation of drywall on the wall. When starting to cut the gypsum board, remember the fragility of the material. After cutting the top layer of cardboard on one side and not completely cutting it on the other, the sheet is placed on the edge of the support and gently split. After that, the sheet is turned over, the cardboard is cut and cracked to the end. For processing such edges, a plane for gypsum board is used, but you can do without it, working with a construction knife.
Joint processing The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at the joints with vertical and transverse slats. The sheets are staggered, placing a short sheet of drywall in each row from above and below. The sheets are joined strictly in the center of the guide, avoiding sagging. Each gypsum board is screwed to the frame at the edges and in the center at a distance of 40-60 cm. If the sheets have a straight edge, it is recommended to make a chamfer at the vertical joints. This will allow for better filling of the joints.
More on video:
If it is planned to place sockets or switches on such a wall, then they need to be taken care of in advance. Leads for sockets and lamps are marked and cut out before mounting on the wall. Then it will be difficult to do, you can ruin the sheet.
The metal corner will protect the walls from dents after impacts After completing the wall cladding, they begin to prepare the surface for application topcoat... All joints are carefully putty and glued with a special reinforced mesh... Such a mesh will bind the putty material and securely hold the joints together.
External and inner corners walls are reinforced with corners to stiffen and prevent crumbling of the gypsum board.
Before you start painting or wallpapering, it makes sense to prime new walls. The primer will help to level the absorbency of the surface, prevent the appearance of microflora and improve adhesion to wallpaper or paint.
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When arranging your home, it often becomes necessary to build new partitions and interior walls... It can be a full-scale redevelopment, and a desire to split an existing room into two parts, or to form rooms in a new building, which is made as a single space. To build new internal partitions plasterboard and metal profiles are used. This material so convenient and easy to use that it is possible to build walls from drywall with your own hands without even resorting to anyone's help. However, despite the above statement, in the process of forming walls from gypsum plasterboard there are many nuances that should be taken into account. This is the only way to get the result of a reliable and durable design.
First, let's decide what we need to build a wall from materials and what tools we have to work with.
To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, the frame should first be erected. It is made of a metal profile that is specially designed for drywall and a number of accessories for its installation.
Basically, a profile of two main standard sizes is used:
In addition, for each standard size, there are profile options such as support (C) and guide (U). The guide option is a simpler version of a U-shaped profile with smooth walls, a support profile is inserted into it with its end. The support profile, in addition to the U-shape, has a special ribbing made by pressing to acquire greater bending rigidity.
As a result:
To build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles are used. For wider walls with the laying of communications, the CD and UD profile is used, while two parallel guides are mounted on each side of the wall at the required distance.
To fix the profile in the frame, you need a straight hanger and a universal connector (crab). You can do without the latter. The elements will have to be twisted with self-tapping screws with a "drill" tip and self-tapping screws for fastening drywall to metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip (3.5X35 mm). In the course of describing the technology for erecting a drywall wall, it will become clear how many screws of each type are needed. To fix the entire frame to the main walls, you will need plastic dowels with impact screws.
Plasterboard sheets for building a wall are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, always with a wide bevel on the sides. If the wall is formed in the kitchen or in the bathroom, then a moisture-resistant gypsum board is chosen. You can distinguish them by color, because the moisture-resistant sheet is green, the usual one is gray.
As a result, it will be required for the construction of the wall:
plasterboard, profile CD, UD, CW, UW, timber or AU profile, self-tapping screws, dowels, sealing tape, mineral wool, metal corner.
If you do not fully understand the specifics of the types of profiles, read about their designations and differences.
You will need the following set of tools and measuring instruments:
So, with the appointment of the profiles and the choice of the tool is finished, you can start planning and placing the future wall. Floor and adjacent walls to be anchored new wall, should be at the stage just before finishing, that is, the floor is even with a screed, the walls are plastered. For example, consider the formation of a wall from a UW, CW profile. On the floor, we mark the placement of the future wall. The following points are taken into account:
Having decided on the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. For this, a plumb line is used. If it is possible to use a laser level, then this will greatly simplify the task.
Important:All profiles that are fixed directly to the floor, ceiling and existing walls are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The guides of the UW profile are fixed to the floor and ceiling first. They are fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws every half a meter and along the edges.
On the edges of the rails, support posts made of CW profiles are attached. Also, racks are installed in places where a door or window opening will be formed, which are necessary during construction interior wall from drywall. It is best to attach the profiles to the lower rail first. Then it is threaded into the upper guide and installed strictly vertically in level. Only then is it fixed on the upper rail. When placing these profiles, the margin for cladding with plasterboard strips over the profile is taken into account. Profiles are installed face inside the opening. The racks are fastened to the guides with the help of self-tapping screws.
The structure of the plasterboard partition.
Support profiles along the perimeter of door and window openings must be reinforced with wooden bars, which are inserted into the profile and secured with self-tapping screws. The bar is selected according to the width of the profile. If the AU profile is used, then you can do without the bars.
The next step is to install vertical CW support profiles along the entire length of the frame. The first profile from the adjacent wall is set at a distance of 550 mm, all subsequent ones are strictly at a distance of 600 mm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each profile. The verticality of the installation of the profiles must be checked.
In order to indicate the top of the doorway and the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW guide profile is used. A piece of profile is cut off 30 cm larger than the width of the opening. On the front side, at the bend of the side bends of the profile, marks are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. The distance between the marks is equal to the width of the opening. The sides of the profile are trimmed at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the side of the edge of the profile to the set mark and up to the base of the profile. After that, the edges of the profile are folded back, and a U-shaped structure is obtained.
The resulting workpiece is put on the bent edges on the racks on the sides of the opening and rises to the required height. It is fixed with self-tapping screws, which screw the edges of the profile to the posts. The resulting oblique ears, which were formed on the main horizontal part of the workpiece, are also screwed on. The perimeter and window openings are formed in the same way.
This completes the formation of the frame. You can proceed to the process of fixing drywall sheets. Sheet sizes are standardized: 1200x2000 mm, 1200x2500 or 1200x3000 mm. In most cases, the ceilings in living quarters are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so one sheet in height may not be enough. Small strips of drywall will have to be added.
The first sheet, which will be installed end-to-end, most often to the adjacent wall, must be removed from the side chamfer. For this, a strip 50 mm wide is cut along its entire length on one side.
Result of work
An ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades is used for this. The sheet must be placed on a flat, hard surface. The cut line is marked with a pencil and the top layer of the cardboard is cut with a knife. After that, the sheet moves along the notch line to the edge of the support and gently breaks off. Having returned the sheet to its original position, it unfolds on an edge and bends. On the second side, the cardboard is also notched, but not through. Turning the sheet over and shifting it to the edge of the support, you can finally chop it off.
To provide a gap that can be subsequently filled with high quality putty, a bevel is formed at the cut edge of the sheet with a slope of 22.5 degrees or close to this. A special drywall plane is used for this. Also, a chamfer is made on the edge of the sheet that will adjoin the GCR strip located above or below the sheet.
Fasten the sheet to metal frame follows with self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm. First of all, the edges of the sheet are fixed and then along the edges and along midline... For this, there is a special marking that marks the position of the screws every 250 mm. The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more. Self-tapping screws are screwed in so that the caps go a little deeper into the gypsum board and do not stick out above the level of the wall.
Important: The sheets are fixed at a distance of 10-15 mm from the floor. This is necessary to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.
Having fixed the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece of gypsum board is cut off. It is also chamfered from the sides, where it will be docked to the bottom or top sheet and to the ceiling.
Subsequent sheets are installed entirely without chamfering and staggered. That is, after the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is installed under the ceiling, and the missing part from below. Thus, one side of the wall is sheathed.
Before sheathing the second side, the wires can be routed if necessary. To pass through the rack profiles, holes 35 mm in size are made in them, strictly in the middle of the profile at the required height. It is desirable that the edges of the hole are concave to one side and bent so as not to damage the wires later. The wires are installed in a corrugated pipe in accordance with the requirements.
For this, mineral wool is used. This will make the plasterboard wall not so transparent to sound, because without sound insulation, all the noise from one room will be heard in another. It is easier to use a roll version of this material with a width of 600 or 1200 mm. The second option is cut in half lengthwise. Cotton wool fits tightly to honey with rack-mount profiles without gaps. There is no need to further secure it. For reliability, horizontal jumpers can be formed from wooden beam along the width of the wall, on which the mineral wool will be based on a shorter length than the height of the ceilings. This method is suitable for places where there is a risk of moisture getting into the wall. However, sufficient ventilation of the interior must also be ensured.
After that, you can sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side of the wall is sheathed, you can start filling all the end surfaces.
There is a distance of 100 mm between the drywall sheets, formed by chamfers, which is somewhat recessed. The joints are glued with a serpyanka mounting mesh and compared with the general level of the wall with a starting putty. The finishing putty compares all the places where the screws are installed or the entire surface, especially if later the wall will be painted or pasted over with thin wallpaper. With the help of abrasive nets and a float, the layer of putty is finally compared. The wall is then ready for cladding with any suitable material.
