Probably, any person is thought of a country or private house. For some, it remains a dream, while others take action. Building a house is a serious step that requires solving many issues both before starting work and during construction. To build a cheap home that meets all the requirements, you need to study each stage of construction and identify opportunities for cost savings.
Site selection is one of the important stages. The cost, comfort and much more depend on where the house will be located. It is important for a city dweller that the place of residence is in an ecologically clean place surrounded by green spaces. The presence of a reservoir will be a big plus. These conditions are important for health and aesthetic enjoyment. Infrastructure and communications are important for a comfortable stay. The cost of a house includes not only the costs of its construction, but also further maintenance during operation. Hence the importance of the availability of transport, the proximity of central communications to which you can connect.
The terrain and geographic conditions have a great influence on the cost of construction. If the area is uneven, you may need to invest additional funds to level it. This also applies to flooded areas that may require reclamation work to drain. If the groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth, you will either have to abandon the basement, or make additional waterproofing. The relief also affects the laying of communications.
In order to build a house as little as possible, you need a dry and flat area.
As for the direct construction of a house, the following factors affect its cost:
We start construction by creating a project. It is at this stage that we calculate the preliminary estimate.
The choice of the optimal size and a good layout will allow you to build a house inexpensively. It is better to entrust the project to specialists in order to correctly calculate the loads and carry out an economically sound layout. When developing a project, you should take into account how many people will live in it. When designing, one should strive to ensure that the outer dimensions of the house are close to a square. Thus, with the same area, the perimeter of the walls will be minimal, which means there will be a minimum length of the walls and, accordingly, the foundation. This will make it possible to save on building materials.
Choosing a layout, you need to stay on a functional option that is convenient for living. Residential and utility rooms should be compactly located in the smallest possible area. The possibility of future redevelopment with the least losses should also be taken into account. That's why interior walls should not be carriers or their number should be minimal.
The most economical option of storeys is construction one-storey house... Line up cottage you can do it yourself, without resorting to hired force. When erecting multi-storey building you have to bear additional costs for interfloor ceilings, stairs, a large number of windows. It is necessary to allocate space under the stairs, which reduces the usable area. If we build an attic, we save money on the construction of walls, but we increase the cost of installing a roof.
To build budget house do it yourself, it is better to choose a roof of a simple design, for example, a gable. To save material, the angle of rise should be made small, then less wood will go to the roofing device, and its area will decrease. When choosing a roof of a complex structure, you will have to spend money on valleys, corners, hatches, windows in the attic and various tin elements - such a roof will increase the cost of construction by 40%.
The cheapest roof coverings:
From natural materials, you can use straw, reeds, wood. Any roof requires insulation, hydro and vapor barrier.
The foundation takes up to 30% of the total cost. It depends on the depth of the base to be laid and the materials used. On the one hand, I want to save on the foundation and make it lighter. But it is the foundation of the house and the future operation of the building depends on it. If the foundation does not respond to the load, then uneven shrinkage is possible, cracks may appear on the walls and ceilings, all this threatens with destruction.
If a basement is planned, then it will not be possible to save money on the basis, since you will have to make a recessed tape version, which consumes a lot of material. When choosing a foundation, one should take into account the characteristics of the soil, the material of the walls, the number of storeys, the future weight of the building with communications and furniture. The economically viable options are the following:
These types of foundations make it possible to save on materials and labor. If the soil is sandy, clayey or stony, when deepening one meter there is no water, then you can arrange strip foundation depth of about 70-80 cm. In the presence of water, the depth should exceed a meter. When arranging the base, you can save money by preparing a concrete solution with your own hands. To do this, you need gravel, crushed stone and sand and cement of the right brand. You can mix the solution by hand in a trough or on a metal sheet. Better concrete will be obtained by using a concrete mixer that can be rented.
The width of the foundation is made according to the thickness of the walls. In order for it to last a long time, it must be reinforced, as well as waterproofed, which will prevent moisture from entering and extend its service life. For waterproofing, you can take the most cheap stuff- roofing material. Before laying the walls, you need to wait for the foundation to stand and gain strength. At least a month should pass.
The choice of wall material is influenced by local conditions. In a wooded area, a cheap tree. If there are deposits nearby natural stone, it is cheaper to build from it. This also applies to manufacturing plants - the closer they are, the cheaper delivery, etc. Consider the following factors when choosing a wall material:
When choosing what is cheaper to build a house from, study the thermal insulation qualities of the material. For harsh winters, you may need good insulation, which in turn will increase the cost of construction. In this case, sometimes it will be cheaper to buy a more expensive material with a high rate of thermal insulation than to bear the costs of insulation. When choosing wooden walls, you need to decide on their design. They can be solid timber or logs, or frame with insulation inside. It is quite difficult to build a cheap house with your own hands from a bar or tree. To do this, you need to have knowledge and experience in stacking logs. Build solid wooden house makes sense where wood is cheap.
More economical option is a frame or frame-panel house. Such houses are widespread in Canada and the United States. They are lightweight, so inexpensive foundation options can be used for them: pile, shallow or columnar.
Thanks to the insulation that fits in inner space frame walls, houses are obtained with good thermal insulation, which makes it possible to save on heating. Frame structures are erected very quickly. For the frame, boards or timber are used with subsequent sheathing. If the frame option scares off with its unreliability, you can build a house from artificial or natural stone materials. But it must be remembered that the thermal insulation of such a house is possible in three ways:
The first option turns out to be expensive, since, in addition to the fact that a lot of material goes to the walls, a reliable foundation is needed that can withstand the weight of the stone walls. Which option will be cheaper - from a porous material or stone walls with insulation, you need to calculate taking into account the masonry and distant external decoration. You can use shell rock for walls. It's cheap natural material, the walls "breathe" with it. True, the openings of doors and windows must be reinforced with metal corners.
Adobe is one of the cheapest options
One of the cheapest is an adobe house. For the walls, dried blocks of clay and straw are used, which are formed in special shapes. The advantage of an adobe house is that you can make blocks with your own hands from inexpensive materials. The speed of construction depends on the size of the blocks. If the dimensions of the elements are large, then few blocks will go away. Adobe blocks can be used as insulation c.
Up to the floor and it is necessary to lay engineering systems.To build a house cheaply with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate and arrange communication systems:
To save money, it is better to install. In the future, during operation, it will allow you to save on heating the device for a warm floor. To do this, lay plastic pipes and fill them cement mortar... This way the whole house can be heated. If necessary, a main heating system can be installed. It is important to make a proper ventilation system so that the house is well ventilated to prevent moisture accumulation, which can cause the appearance of mold and mildew. Also, there should be no drafts in the house. If you insulate the walls, install the heating and ventilation system correctly, you can build a warm and cozy home.
When installing sewerage and water supply, you need to accurately calculate the amount of material using the plan of the house in order to lay pipes with maximum benefit. When planning a dwelling, premises to which it will be necessary to supply sewerage and water supply should be placed close to each other in order to save on pipes. It is better to use plastic pipes. They are easy to install and durable.
If there is a central water supply and sewerage system, this will significantly reduce the cost of installing a water supply system. In their absence, it is necessary to install at least a small septic tank, which can be built from concrete rings or eurocubes. The cheapest way to get water is on an area with walls made of concrete rings. The second option is more expensive -. Its cost depends on the depth. The owner has the right to choose which water horizon to use. Electricity and gas supply must be done by specialists.
The cheapest way to finish the facade is siding or decorative plaster... You can sheathe your home with siding yourself, for this you do not need to have much experience renovation works... There are many color solutions, which allows you to choose the lamellae to taste. If you buy quality material, then a house trimmed with siding will last a long time. With the help of textured plaster, you can choose almost any color of the facade. It is important that the color of the walls of the house is in harmony with the color of the roof. With the right combination of colors, you can achieve that even small house simple shapes will look beautiful and will attract attention.
Interior finishing includes finishing of walls, ceilings and flooring. After installing the communications, you should perform concrete screed floor. Choose the floor covering taking into account the purpose of the premises. In living rooms, it is better to use linoleum or laminate. For rooms with high humidity and take tiles in the kitchen. It is practical, easy to clean, moisture resistant and mechanical damage... When installing a warm floor, it will not be so cold.
In order not to spend money on leveling the surface and hide flaws, a device would be a cheap option. stretch ceiling from PVC or fabric. If you take a glossy finish, it visually expands the space. Matte ceilings are non-reflective and have a deep color. Drywall allows you to create a ceiling of any configuration using halogen bulbs. You can make a ceiling from plastic panels... A bleached or painted ceiling will be economically viable. If you follow the technology, you can make yourself a perfectly flat white ceiling. To do this, you must first wash, level and prime and then whitewash. Coating with water-based paint will also be a budget way of updating.
For wall decoration wooden houses it is better to use lining, it looks harmoniously with wooden structures. When sheathing with plasterboard, you can save on leveling surfaces, increase sound insulation in living rooms. A cheap way to decorate is painting, but it requires careful preliminary preparation. The cheapest option is wallpapering.
Typically, the category of economy class housing includes houses with a minimum cost per square meter and a small living space. Often such homes are viewed as summer cottages, weekend homes or second homes. The project of such a dwelling is in demand by young families and people with a low level of income who want to improve their housing opportunities.
Layout of two floors of a small two-story summer house of economy class
These include cottages that are located on a relatively small area, most often either. They make the most of the available land.
Despite the apparent simplicity caused by physical limitations, good project economy class houses are a very difficult task. Achieving a balance between conflicting requirements in the face of extremely limited space reserves requires the highest qualifications of an architect and a wealth of experience.
Finished project of a small house with an attic
However, a budget house is not always synonymous with small. Some technological solutions and techniques can significantly reduce the cost of construction, while remaining within a sufficiently large area.
Such solutions include the device of screw and bored foundations, the device of frame, log or cobbled wall fences and partitions. Thus, economy class houses made of different materials and by different technologies, can be in the same price category, but differ significantly in living space.
All houses are made up of premises for various purposes... implies a functional combination of areas with common features. For example, the entrance node, corridor and kitchen-dining room are considered “noisy” shared spaces.
Zoning plan of premises in the house
And the bedrooms and the study belong to the "quiet" recreation areas. Correct zoning is the most important reserve, especially relevant when there is a shortage of space. The chaotic placement of premises, due to a subjective opinion about the appropriateness, increases the area required to move between zones.
The passage to the bedroom through the kitchen-dining room significantly reduces the area of the common room, it is required to preserve the necessary passage.
Access to office space through the daytime occupants' zone leads to the same result. As a result, the limited area of the common room turns into an intersection between office and sleeping quarters, loses its ability to be used for its intended purpose.
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Project and layout wooden house 10x13
Correct zoning implies that each functional area can be accessed through a common node that does not interfere with the planned functioning of the premises. 
When choosing or ordering a project for a future home, one should be extremely careful about understanding these features.
An economy-class house is demanding not only for zoning, but also for the combination or functional combination of general-purpose premises. For example, a children's room can be divided into a sleeping area and a playroom. In order to do this, it is not necessary to break up the room with a wall. The same result can be achieved with the correct configuration, furniture placement, or sliding railings.
In a similar way, you can combine a bedroom and an office or a workplace, a bathroom and a boudoir.
An example of a room layout with a combination of functions
The corridor or hall is well combined with the dressing room, which allows you to save other rooms from built-in or floor-standing wardrobes and shelves.
It has already become customary for architects and their customers. Indeed, this is a very convenient and rational solution that allows you to avoid the device of a corridor between rooms, to inexpensively save the area required for opening the door, to obtain a relatively large space even in small apartment... The layout of houses of an economical niche with such a solution can only be welcomed, since it facilitates the organization of movement in the apartment and creates a dominant linking all other premises.
Corridors and walkways are the least functional areas in a dwelling. The longer they are, the more space is lost. Any dead-end corridors resting against one or two doors should be perceived as direct waste. When developing or choosing a project, you need to pay attention to this.
A properly organized node in front of the entrances to the rooms should represent a platform spacious enough so as not to interfere with the simultaneous opening of the doors. Despite the large width, such a platform will take up less space than a corridor and will perform its functions better.
Interior of a small studio house
Sometimes it is more profitable, on the contrary, by increasing the width of the aisle, arrange a closet in it or install shelves for temporary storage of things.
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The original layout of a small two-story house
What should be provided for in such a house? First of all, of course, the required minimum of premises - a kitchen or a kitchen-dining room, bedrooms, a bathroom, a bath. If there is no central heating, it is necessary to provide for the placement in the house or in the attached room of the boiler room. Ancillary premises are located and planned as desired - these include a dressing room, a pantry, and others.
An example of the layout of a small one-story economy-class house with a size of 6x6
Since the area of an economy class house usually does not exceed 150 sq. m., then the arrangement of rooms and zoning must be approached especially carefully. It is possible to provide for either a basement floor, where you can take out utility rooms and a boiler room, or a basement. On the ground floor, as a rule, there are - an entrance hall, a kitchen or kitchen-dining room, a living room, a bathroom with a bath.
When choosing, you need to decide which option is preferable. Two-storey house, at first glance it seems more profitable than a one-story one. Him less area development, less costs for foundations and roofing.
In fact, this is not always the case. A two-story house will require a staircase to move between floors. With the limited area of the first floor, this causes a critical degradation of planning solutions.
An example of the functional layout of a one-story country house
The total area of the entrance node, staircase, a minimum set of utility and hygienic rooms, together with the necessary corridors and passages, will be almost equal to the floor area. Most likely, in an economy-class house, the first floor will not be at all suitable for a long stay.
Usually, designers try to reduce the width of the staircase, increase its height, abandon landings and give the staircase the steepest angle possible. This is a very bad way out, or rather, an imitation of it. Living with a staircase like this would be excruciatingly inconvenient. Difficult to use. As a result, the relatively large free area of the second floor will not be in demand, and there will be constant hustle and bustle on the first floor.
Everyone who wants to settle outside the city or in a small village arrives. In megalopolises it is stuffy, morally and physically, from the inhaled air and extraneous noise. I would like, if not to move out altogether, then to acquire a recreation area in nature. As you know, we do not suffer from a surplus of funds, so the problem arises: how to build a house inexpensively? In a private house, you will have to bother with the housework more and its maintenance will cost a little more than paying for a communal apartment for a city apartment of equal area, but a healthy lifestyle is worth it. And if you start at least a small backyard garden with a greenhouse, then, without overstraining, individual housing can be made generally profitable.
A private residential building of a budget price segment may well be comfortable, warm, reliable. And if the arms grow as they should and there is a desire to apply them correctly, then they will look solid, see fig. However, building a house cheaply is not all. There are almost 7.5 billion people on Earth and everything is coming. Our "ball" is not rubber, so it would be simply naive to expect that taxes on real estate and rent for land will somehow decrease there over time.
Consequently, the cheapest house is not necessarily the one that will be cheaper to build: when choosing material for a house (see below), a project, etc., you must definitely keep in mind further operating costs. Especially if the construction is carried out on credit, you need to start repaying it immediately. That is, the period from the start of construction to the readiness of the house for settlement is of great importance: while the construction is underway, there will be no time to survey additional income, but you have to pay for the old housing and take out and put the next loan payment.
The conclusion is obvious: Having conceived to build, first of all, we estimate - and how much will we eat until the house is completely ready? This moment may turn out to be significant even for a fairly experienced builder, if you need to decide whether to build with your own hands or to entrust some of the construction stages to a bona fide contractor with well-established production and well-equipped technically. Savings from smart distribution of cash and / or available funds in terms of the stages of readiness of the house (see below) for contract and hand-made work, it can significantly exceed all other possible articles of it and will certainly greatly facilitate and simplify the choice of the main structural material the house and its foundation - the foundation.
We will consider a house as a budget one, the construction of which is up to full readiness (see below), but without heating, cooking and plumbing fixtures, it will cost 10,000 rubles. for 1 sq. m of total area or less. A house of 100 common squares in this case will cost up to 1 million rubles. or approx. $ 18,000 at today's rate (2019). Under certain local conditions, it is possible to reduce the cost of construction to 5500-6000 rubles. per square; if you build completely with your own hands, slowly only for your own; if there is an inexpensive former housing, then it is possible to keep within 4500 rubles. per square, but cheaper is already a fiction, who would not promise anything. Good contractors for 3000 rubles. you can still find per square, but - on a turnkey basis, and bringing the house to full readiness will require at least the same amount.
Note: the given figures, as well as further in this article, are averages for the Russian Federation. Here it is appropriate to recall an old anecdote, which is now altered in its own way in almost all countries: a nobleman eats meat, a peasant only has enough for bread. On average, they eat meat pie for two. So, finally, check the prices on your own - it is impossible to give a full review of them in one publication, and the next day after its publication, the situation on the market may change. But here we give mainly information on how to build a house cheaply and quickly with technical and organizational measures, without sacrificing its quality.
The problem of taxes and land rent can be largely solved, firstly, by building a house with 2 floors, which will save on land payments. Some prejudice against the upper floors in individual houses has remained from the Soviet era, when private construction of more than 1.5 floors was strictly prohibited. It makes no sense to build a budget 3-storey building: you will have to pay too much to the staircase useful area, and to strengthen the walls of the 1st floor, which will greatly complicate, lengthen and increase the cost of the work. And in a 2-storey building, a staircase to the 2nd, bedroom, floor can lead directly from the living room or hallway / hall.
Secondly, real estate tax can also be significantly reduced on a completely legal basis by completing a half-story bedroom in the form of a Siberian attic. A diagram of the pediment of a frame residential building with a Siberian attic is given in Fig. on right. Not everyone likes houses with Siberian mansards because of the faceted roof, but in fact they are economical and convenient, and in budget construction there is no time for sophisticated architectural solutions. For budget frame house(see below) the Siberian attic is practically the only way to increase its actual number of storeys.
Note: for a house made of foam or gas blocks, there is another non-trivial opportunity to increase its living space without a significant increase in taxation and land lease, see below. This factor can be decisive in regions where individual construction of 2 or more floors is prohibited due to natural conditions, for example. in seismically dangerous places or on permafrost.
The stage (stage) of the readiness of a residential building for settlement means a completely completed cycle / complex of construction work, after which the construction can wait for the start of the next stage for a certain or indefinitely long time. A technological break between stages is most often necessary for the shrinkage of the structures of the previous cycle, but sometimes (see below) it is unacceptable or possible only in the warm dry season. Work at the next stage of construction can be carried out both independently and under a contract from the same or another contractor, regardless of how the previous one was performed. The stages of bringing the budget residential building to readiness are as follows:
Secondly, the customer must be offered a contract on paper. An offer (public standard) or individual, it does not matter, the main thing is that the rights and obligations of the parties must be clearly spelled out there. Thirdly, the warranty period for this stage (stages) of work and the conditions for compliance with warranty obligations must also be indicated there.
Good budgetary contractors give a 2-5 year warranty. Less is impossible due to technical breaks. More in conscience, too, is impossible, tk. the local operating conditions of the building may change for the worse. They can be taken into account ("laid down" constructively) by using more expensive materials and technical solutions, but this will no longer be a budget construction.
In popular sources and prospectuses of contractors, you can come across recommendations on your mind, accompanied by sketch (without reference to the place) projects: they say, we first build a 6x9 house very cheaply, and then, as we accumulate funds, add more rooms to it (the original layout allows), while children-grandchildren will not be left with a huge mansion. This approach is fundamentally wrong.
Anyone who is in the slightest degree familiar with construction knows that adding a residential building to an existing one is a difficult and not always feasible technical task. First, the old foundation has already completely settled, and the new one will give the calculated shrinkage only under the weight of the structure being carried. That is, the extension cannot be immediately attached tightly to the main structure, you need to wait to see if the cracks will go and seal them up. It is difficult to find publicly available information about extensions to existing buildings in common runet; you can look for a small but explanatory book by dr. tech. sciences Ferenc Segi "How to avoid mistakes in the construction of an individual house." There was a Russian translation, M., Stroyizdat, 1987... Curiously - this little book then cost as much as 90 kopecks. Soviet.
Third, even if the house is rubber on a gimbal, it is unacceptable to allow it to sway and sway to the beat of seasonal ground movements from year to year. A kind of virtual (invisible) warm "pit" is formed under the house, erected on a correctly chosen and laid foundation, in which it is never below zero; the blind area around the house expands it to the sides. An extension to a house can disrupt the established thermal balance in the bearing soil, which is fraught with an accident rate of the main building. Therefore, bona fide contractors expose one of the conditions of the guarantee - no extensions that have not been agreed with them.
One of the ways to get an inexpensive home for permanent residence in relation to available living space is to build a home on a common foundation with a garage. Perhaps this is only for houses made of non-combustible materials; regarding the budget - foam and gas-block, otherwise the firefighters will not allow the project to be approved or to legitimize the squatter.
However, it makes little sense to simply attach a garage to the house, as on the left in the figure, it will give almost nothing to save costs for construction and further maintenance of the house. It is necessary to enter a garage of a typical size 4X7 m inside into the constructive scheme of the house, taking into account the following:
In this case, the garage floor slab will serve as the floor of the one and a half floor, less taxed, but quite spacious. An example of this kind of layout is shown on the right in fig. The area utilization factor is not so hot there, but there are a lot of amenities:
Agree, a house for 4-5 people with a separate dressing room, a living room of more than 25 squares and a French bedroom, in which there is also a hydromassage - this is really really cool. And the total area on the land is much less than 180 sq. m, from which the increased taxation begins. Even if in your state the base area norm is 150-160 sq. m, the tax authorities will still have to register the house as a budget house.
When choosing the base of a house or checking the option offered by the contractor, you need to comply with the geology and soil mechanics of the construction site. The factors of soil mobility that most of all affect the cost of the foundation of a house are as follows:
Massive low-cost development is possible on non-heaving and slightly heaving soil with a bearing capacity of up to 0.7 kg / sq. cm, but only based on the results of careful preliminary surveys over the entire building area with a decent margin around the edges. An experienced contractor can build a separate reliable house on medium-heaped soil with a bearing capacity of 1.1-1.3 kg / sq. m. Self-construction can be practiced on the ground up to medium heaving with a normal bearing capacity of 1.7 kg / sq. cm or higher. On strongly and excessively heaving soils, budgetary development is impossible with rare exceptions (see below).
Note: the bearing capacity of the soil directly at the building site can be determined on your own without complex instruments, but how - this is already a special article.
Some potentially low-cost houses cannot be erected on an unburied foundation (see below). The heel (sole) of the foundation should be deepened below the LHP by at least 0.6 m on medium heaving soils and not less than 0.3 m on slightly heaving and non-heaving soils. The base of the foundation should not reach the level of standing groundwater by 0.5 m or more. Typical extreme cases for budget building: dry sandy loam (slightly heaving), NGP 1.5 m, water standing 2.5 m; deepening of the foundation 1.8-1.9 m. Or - moderately humid podzol (medium porous), oil-and-gas mixture 1.2 m, water standing 3.5 m. Depth of the foundation from 1.8 m.
The question of what will be cheaper to build a house in a given place, must be decided without fail, taking into account fire hazard... Hoping for the best, preparing for the worst is a universal principle, and the harmfulness (or accommodatingness) of firefighters is in fifth or seventh place after their own safety. Relatively possible harm from the fire, the properties of materials for budgetary construction are divided into a trace. way:
So it's time to choose material for a house in a budget price category. Unfortunately, houses made of bricks, profiled beams and chamber-dried rounded logs are excluded from the budget category. They have a lot of advantages and relatively few disadvantages, but it will be possible to move into a brick house no earlier than the 3rd year from the beginning of zero: a year for the shrinkage of an expensive buried foundation, a year for the shrinkage of the box, and only then can it be handed over on a turnkey basis, plus time for interior decoration... In addition, at current energy prices brick house expensive outdoor insulation is needed.
Note: houses made of wood concrete (fiber-reinforced concrete), reeds, straw blocks, etc. are not considered, because their reliability has not yet been confirmed by time and there is no well-established construction industry for their construction.
Chamber profiled beams and logs impregnated with harmless antiseptics and fire retardants are expensive in themselves and require solid carpentry experience to build a residential building. The houses of them are considered prestigious; as a consequence, the cost of the work is high. Also, prefabricated panel houses do not fit into the budget category: they are erected very quickly, but their construction requires qualified personnel and a high degree of mechanization of work. Given these circumstances, the choice of widely available materials is rather limited. To compare the cost of a fully finished house per unit (100%), you can take a frame house made of non-glued beams and conventional air-dried boards. The result looks like a trace. way:
General advantages and - low sensitivity to ground movements, they "play" with it. Therefore, it is possible to build such houses on an unburied columnar foundation, the simplest and cheapest. It is also possible to build a residential frame / timber budget house on strongly heaving soft soil, laying a TISE pile-strip foundation under it. A 2-storey frame house cannot be built without a detailed design, but in budget construction this problem is solved by the Siberian attic, see above.
A log house is good because in regions with a fairly mild winter it does not require additional insulation: a log 200 mm thick is equivalent to brickwork in 600 mm. Internal cladding both in a bar and in a frame house it is possible with plywood or non-combustible materials: chipboard, OSB. Outer cladding made of OSB (oriented strand board, OSB, Oriented Strand Board) will give the house additional rigidity in the wind and resistance to weather conditions. The plaster inside here and there is dry, with gypsum plasterboard (GKL) along the shreds (15-20) x40 mm; it is impossible to sheathe the gypsum board without lathing even completely flat walls.
The design of a timber frame house is well known (left in the figure). Without impregnation with biocides and fire retardants (which can be done independently), all the fire-fighting qualities of such houses are low, and the fire resistance is generally zero, they burn out completely. Fire safety and fire resistance can be increased to an acceptable level (10-15 minutes for evacuation) if the insulation is made with ecowool (cellulose insulation). It will cost approx. 25% more expensive than mineral wool, but when heated, ecowool emits a lot of water vapor, which retards the fire. In addition, ecowool does not allow wood to rot: it contains an antiseptic - borax. Wet ecowool does not collapse and retains 75% of its insulating qualities, while dried out completely restores them. Thermal insulation with ecowool is possible manually without experience; no fasteners or lathing are required. Waterproof and vapor barrier for ecowool need inexpensive simplified ones. The estimated service life of an all-wood frame or log house with mineral wool insulation and without outer cladding is 25-40 years, depending on the quality of the wood and local conditions; the same, with ecowool insulation - up to 70 years or more.
Inexpensive house for cottage frame construction with dimensions of example. up to 4x6 m, it is possible to build from boards alone with your own hands without experience, as well as air-drying logs. But if the total area of the house exceeds approx. 25 sq. m and / or the number of openings in it is more than 3-4, an experienced carpenter should build. In this case, the frame of the house is needed with the main load-bearing elements made of timber from 150x150 mm.
First, it is impossible to place openings of windows and doors in a house, any size of which exceeds 6 m. Computer programs are of little help here: you need to enter initial data into them and choose a calculation method based on your own experience. There is no computer construction program that would “do everything by itself” yet.
The second is in a residential frame / log house there must be at least two load-bearing partitions. Their location can be taken from a typical project, but the connection of partitions with outside walls a beginner is unlikely to be able to; especially if the house is timber.
In a log house built without experience, the problem of caulking can also arise. Only a very experienced specialist is capable of rejecting when buying a beam that is highly susceptible to warping. If seasonal country house cleft, the trouble is small, you can just plug the cracks. In a large residential building with split walls, it will be possible to survive 1-2 winters, spending a lot on heating, and then it will quickly go to accidents due to weakening of the structure.
Houses on a steel thin-walled frame (on the right in the figure) may be somewhat cheaper than solid wood, but this is seemingly cheap. The main thing is that the fire resistance of houses on a steel thin-walled frame is zero: in a flame, the frame instantly (in less than 3 minutes) loses its strength, and the house collapses. In addition, it is very difficult to take into account the fatigue of elements of a complex thin-walled structure, and cases of sudden collapse of such houses for no apparent reason are not rare in the world. In general, the service life of 100-120 years declared by the manufacturers is not maintained, therefore, in a number of states, only non-residential small architectural forms are allowed to be built on a steel frame.
Structural Insulated Panel (SIP) is a pie of plywood or OSB with extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) or polyurethane foam in between. SIP made of OSB and polyurethane foam are suitable for housing construction; CIP in EPS filler in the fire emit a huge amount of poisonous gases. The main advantages of SIP houses, firstly, the speed and ease of construction, see the video:
The fact that they can be built on an unburied foundation such as a Swedish or Finnish slab reduces even more the period of bringing the house from the self-supporting insulated wire to readiness for moving in. These foundations are cheap, the term for their "maturation" fits into the warm season, therefore slab foundation under the house from self-supporting insulated wire, you can order / lay with a margin for future extensions or under an extensive veranda, see fig. on right. External finishing houses from SIP can be any and it will look more than decent, see in the same place.
It is equally important that the self-supporting insulated wire is an excellent heat insulator in itself and no additional insulation is required for the house. The disadvantages of SIP houses include the need ventilation system since the walls don't breathe. In Russian conditions, it is essential that SIP houses are unsuitable for stove heating, the panel filler heats up and gradually exudes toxic substances. The manufacturers also declare the service life of the self-supporting insulated wire to be small, 40-70 years. Finally, the SIP box cannot be left to winter, the house must be built at least on a turnkey basis during the warm season.
The box can be very inexpensive, doing construction on weekends, folded from spring to the end of summer on glue, without being a bricklayer at all; she can hibernate once under a roof and wrapped in plastic. A technical break for shrinking the box is not needed.
The main enemies of the foam / gas-block house, firstly, moisture. There are plenty of pores for condensation in its walls, and it is difficult and long to dry a damp house made of foam / gas blocks. Therefore, in this case, a complete (and not cheap) vapor barrier is needed both outside and inside (there are household and respiratory fumes) and good external thermal insulation, "Not letting" the dew point into the walls. As a result, the statement that a house made of foam / gas blocks breathes is, to put it mildly, just talk. Who lived in such a house is unlikely to argue.
In fact, the only way to 100% prevent a house made of foam / gas blocks from dampness in any conditions is a ventilated facade. Which works great, but does not apply to budget construction. Comfortable and even elite houses from foam / gas blocks you can build and build, but in warm regions and not in the budget segment.
The second enemy of the foam / aerated house is the natural wear and tear of concrete. Let's say it only crumbles 0.01 mm per year. In this case, 300-400 years will pass before the reinforcement is exposed in the concrete monolith, which can be ignored in the calculations of conventional structures. But the partitions between the pores of the foam / gas blocks are of the order of 1 mm, and their safety margin of 100% will be exhausted in 20-25 years, because destruction comes from 2 sides. Therefore, the estimated service life of a house made of foam blocks or gas blocks up to 60-100 years is clearly exaggerated. Confirmation of this is the massive (and unsuccessful) sale of aerated concrete villas in Spain, not even at cost minus depreciation, but for how much they will take. When they were building, you forgot about the micro wear of blocks, and now what to do with all this?
So, in accordance with all the attendant circumstances, we have few options for a really budgetary construction:
The cost of building a house of the same area can differ by two or more times.
You can reduce the construction budget if you invest your own labor, knowledge, energy, and talents in this business.
1. You can seriously save money by choosing house project, which should have economical planning solutions and structural elements at home.
Architects offering ready-made projects are not interested in the cost of the house. Their task is to charm the developer with a beautiful facade and sell the project.
A beautiful picture acts like a drug - the developer decides by all means to build a large, complex and therefore very expensive house.
Not an expensive house project - a one-story house with gable roof on a shallow foundation with floors on the ground. Total area 123 m 2 ... The house has no internal load-bearing walls. Attic floor absent - suspended ceiling attached to the roof trusses. The angle of inclination of the roof slopes is 20 °. In summer, the living area is increased due to the large, more than 20 m², completely covered and protected by the walls of the terrace, pos. 13.
A rectangular house with a gable roof;
one-storey house without expensive interfloor floors, stairs and numerous windows;
a house without a basement, because if there is one, costs will increase by at least 30%;
house on low and;
a house without unusual elements - bay windows, arched windows, tympans, columns, balconies, pilasters, stairs, two-level rooms, winter gardens; 
roof with two, in last resort, five rays (sometimes there are fifteen of these rays!). Corners, valleys, lucarnes, roof windows and a lot of tin elements - such a roof can cost 40% of construction costs;
outer walls, the simplest to construct;
standard size windows;
simple interior and exterior wall decoration;
traditional facade made of cement-lime plaster.
The simple form of the house is the embodiment of the ultra-modern architectural style of the Barn house. Distinctive feature style is refined laconicism, which is achieved the right choice proportions, as well as textures and colors of the exterior finish, in harmony with the surrounding space.
Dedicate maximum time and energy to choosing an economical home project.
Read the articles devoted to the selection of the main parameters of a house project:
2. On finishing works. Option "minimum": walls with traditional plaster or, on the floor - laminate, in the bathroom - simple plumbing.
3. On materials. The selection, purchase and delivery of materials to the construction site can be entrusted to the construction contractor - you have less worries. But if you want to save money, then take this work on yourself.
You can buy materials from famous trade marks or purchase the same materials from local or lesser known manufacturers. Moreover, they will not be inferior in quality to the first, but their price will be lower. To save money and not make a mistake in choosing, collect all available information about the manufacturer, prices in the construction market in your city and in the neighboring city, as well as reviews about the quality of the product.
However, remember the basic rule of the market - quality costs money.
Many sellers give seasonal discounts from the price during the period when the demand for building materials is falling. This usually happens from November to February. Keep track of prices and purchase expensive materials during this period.
SNiP 23-02-2003 proposes to carry out, making the appropriate calculations, the optimization of the building envelope according to.
For different structures of the shells of the house (walls, floors), the total cost of construction is calculated 1 m 2 wall or floor surfaces, rub / m 2... The heating costs of a house built with these different shell designs are then determined. For each structure, a payback period is found - a period of time during which the construction costs will be recouped.
In different regions, depending on the cost of the fuel and building materials used, as well as the severity of the climate, different results of the payback period of a particular wall or ceiling structure are obtained.
If you do not have definite preferences from what to build a house, then ask local designers about the results of such calculations. Choose the option for the construction of walls and ceilings with the shortest payback period for construction costs in your area.
Calculations and construction practice show that in places with a harsh climate and / and expensive fuel it is more profitable to invest in highly efficient insulation.
In harsh climates or when heating with electricity, it is beneficial build two-layer walls with a thin, but durable, and therefore relatively cheap, bearing layer (, etc.), masonry thickness 180-250 mm. and insulate them with a rather thick layer of effective insulation - 100-300 mm.
In areas with very harsh winters in a two-layer wall it may be advantageous to lay the load-bearing part from less durable, but "warmer" blocks: aerated concrete, gas silicate, foam concrete or porous ceramics, density 600 - 1200 kg / m 3... This solution will reduce the thickness of the layer of high-performance insulation, but due to the lower strength. wall material will have to increase the thickness of the walls.
One square meter frame wall contains the maximum amount of highly effective insulation. This is perhaps the most profitable wall structure in terms of return on construction costs.
Frame wall inexpensive house for harsh climates:
However, the frame house has, which not all developers like.
A house with frame walls is profitable to build and in areas with less severe winters... The outer layer of insulation on the frame wall in areas with a milder climate can be omitted.
In areas with mild winters less expensive houses are obtained from light, warm porous ceramics or without additional insulation and masonry thickness no more than 510 mm.
Wooden walls made of timber or logs in most climatic zones of Russia do not provide modern requirements for heat conservation. Wooden walls of houses for year-round use require additional insulation.
In the comments, please justify your choice: cheaper, warmer, more durable, etc.
