House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» Installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands. How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? How to make a rectangular plasterboard suspended ceiling

Installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands. How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? How to make a rectangular plasterboard suspended ceiling

From the author: hello dear readers. As we can see, time does not stand still. Science, technology, fashion are marching forward. In general, everything is developing - and of course, this business has not bypassed the issue of home improvement. On the contrary, this area has developed and became so popular that we began to see masterpieces of design thought on every corner.

The beauty of the interior decoration is simply mesmerizing, which naturally does not leave us indifferent. We are eagerly beginning to wish for the same changes in our homes. Unfortunately, all these delights cost a lot, and often half of it is the cost of the work itself. In order to eliminate this factor and save money, today we will talk about self-production.

Having entrusted this work to yourself, you will only need to spend money on material that is not so expensive. Well, how to do it easily and simply, you will now learn - moreover, we will teach you how to make various geometric bodies and expand the boundaries of your imagination.

Types of structures

To help you decide on the future design of the ceiling, we will tell you what structures are in general, and what are the features of their manufacture. In general, there are not so many of them, but it is the forms that determine their individuality.

The selected type must be specifically selected for the parameters of your room, take into account the location front door and windows, arrangement of lighting and ventilation devices. Well, more on that later, but now, let's tell you about two main types of performance.

The first type is concave bodies. They give the impression that this or that figure has been cut out from the thickness of the main ceiling. It can be anything, but the most popular are circles and stars. Usually done around the main lighting, thereby emphasizing its beauty and forming a chic shadow on the walls. Also used for combination with other types of ceilings, for example, stretch ceilings.

The second type is convex bodies. More common compared to the first category, since manufacturing takes up less room space, is cheaper in terms of material costs and gives more room for imagination. Such elements coexist perfectly with other types of ceilings.

Well, now, let's understand what kind of constructions are:

  1. Rectangular perimeter framing is the easiest and most common way to decorate your ceiling. It is done very simply and does not require a lot of material. The work consists in creating even corners and lines, which does not require any skill at all, will allow you to create beautiful lighting, and, if desired, hidden backlighting. Such a ceiling is ideal for combining with PVC stretch films.
  2. The wave-like framing of the perimeter is structurally the same as the rectangular one. The main difference is that instead of straight lines, wavy lines are made, like a drawing template. It looks very impressive, especially when using backlighting. Naturally, a stretch ceiling is also ideal, especially in a blue color. Such a combination with lighting, willy-nilly, reminds of a pool on the ceiling, in general - super.
  3. The circle is a classic, so to speak, the discoverer of this art. The circles look laconic and fit any interior. A kind of zest is brought in by the fact that two contradictions appear on the ceiling, a circle and a rectangle - that is, walls. The combination always looks fresh and unusual. The use of spotlights along the rim of the circle gives particular beauty. It can be both empty and whole - and, sometimes, it can combine both.
  4. with sharp edges - have come into fashion quite recently and have already won the hearts of many. They look like massive geometric bodies, either adjacent to the plane, or soaring 10–15 cm. The tilt or disproportionality of the bodies also makes this design unusual. It looks fashionable and surprises any guest with its uniqueness, since the recent appearance of fashion for such figures did not allow them to spread much.
  5. Podiums - angular or rectangular. Part of the room is closed with a smooth or angular ceiling podium, which is located either above the dining tables, or in the kitchen, above the workplace. It is also possible over the soft corner, moreover, the podium line should correspond to the line of the object under it. During manufacture, it must be highlighted with several additional lighting soffits.
  6. Combination of systems. All of the above types can be merged with each other, while receiving unusual, so to speak, piece masterpieces. When using this style, the main thing is not to overdo it with elements, since a large number of figures and delights in a room with a small area will look ridiculous. You can dilute all this "undertaking" with other types of ceilings, for example, stretch ceilings or grilyato. The only downside is that their cost is very high, although you won't go for it for the sake of such beauty.
  7. Cornices are not exactly a special subgroup, but also worth attention. It is a system that hides the cornice. But it can be so unusual that only its location on the ceiling will become a true exclusive of your apartment. It can be wavy, imitate flames or a waterfall.

As you can see, the variety of types and shapes is huge, but the fact that making it all with your own hands is easy and simple, we will convince you in the following points. In the meantime, let's analyze what tool we need for work.

Required tools and materials

For the production of work, you will need a very small set of tools, most of which you will find in the tool box. Well, what is not enough, you can always get it from a neighbor, parents or, in extreme cases, rent it. So, you will need:

  • hammer drill with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm;
  • a screwdriver with a quality bit (screwdriver);
  • construction or office knife with spare blades;
  • chopping cord or millimeter nylon thread with blue;
  • long level, you need at least a meter;
  • laser level, and since this is a rare phenomenon in everyday life, an ordinary hydro level made of a PVC tube and two glass tubes is also suitable;
  • tape measure, pencil and marker;
  • scissors for metal;
  • pliers;
  • Phillips screwdriver;
  • hammer;
  • spatula 50 cm and 10 cm;
  • a bucket and a whisk for mixing putty;
  • sanding grater.

From the materials you will need the following:

  • drywall sheets;
  • metal profile UD-27;
  • metal profile CD-60;
  • plastic anchor corner;
  • perforated aluminum corner;
  • putty primary and secondary;
  • screws for metal, black, with frequent threads, for fastening drywall;
  • plastic with a cap, impact dowels with a screw;
  • "Bugs" - small screws for metal, for twisting metal structures;
  • ceiling mounts "peshki";
  • trowel mesh, abrasive fraction 260-280.

I will make a reservation right away, in any hardware store you can begin to impose a variety of fasteners and parts that simplify installation. Ditch them and you will save a lot of money. We have already listed everything we need, and it is not worth buying more of this. Any fixing or connecting parts are made from the same profile.

A few words about the electrician

The electrical part requires a lot more professional knowledge and skills, and if you don't have them, read on and expand your area of ​​expertise a little.

So, we list the main points when installing an electrician - so to speak, tips you cannot do without:

  • first of all, you need to check which wires are laid or the apartment. Soviet-era buildings were usually lined with aluminum, and modern houses with copper. To find out, open the cover of the junction box, unwind the electrical tape on the twists - you will see what kind of wire you have;
  • plan the location of everyone and their groups in advance. This is done so that you know which lamp will be turned on with the additional lighting key, and which will be the main one. Also calculate the length of the LED strip - if, of course, you have a backlight;
  • wires should be laid in a corrugated pipe, and all connections should be made in junction boxes. This is done according to the rules of fire safety, and in order to avoid the involuntary hit of electricity on the metal frame;
  • if you originally had aluminum wiring in your apartment, and it was decided to make the lighting system from copper, then the copper-aluminum connection should be done only through the terminal block;
  • if you plan to use LED lamp, then it will be enough to use a cable cross-section equal to 0.75 mm 2 of copper - if you are going to use tungsten spotlights and high-power incandescent lamps, you should select a copper cross-section of at least 1.5 mm 2;
  • using tungsten incandescent lamps, you will be able to install power regulators and be able to adjust the brightness of the lamps from maximum to twilight;
  • using tungsten spotlights, you will not do without a system smooth start- a special device mounted in an electrical circuit. It will save dozens of lamps a year, since without it they burn out very quickly.

Manufacturing of structures

The work on the manufacture of all the elements, which we talked about earlier, are of the same type, they are distinguished only by a few features. Therefore, for simplicity of presentation, we list the general stages of installation, and then analyze the features. So, to contemplate our ideas, we need to consistently perform the following steps:


Some features:

  • when making smooth lines, for the final finishing of corners, use anchor corners, and for finishing straight lines - metal perforated;
  • when making only a podium with a smooth or straight line, without the formation of a second level and a niche, the smooth wall is mounted first, and only then the crossbars and ribs are screwed on;
  • when making a secret cornice, bordering on tension PVC, do not use a profile, use a thick wooden beam;
  • if the PVC ceiling is adjacent to the wall, then it will be better to glue the wallpaper after installing the ceiling;
  • if desired, you can solder different PVC textures, so think carefully about the design - maybe you like the sinusoidal soldering. Remember, there are no limits;
  • backlighting can be done not only from under the gypsum board, it can also be located under PVC or even shine through through patterned perforations in the film.

That's all, dear friends. I hope our article will be useful, and finally, I would like to warn you: if you have not done such work before and do not know at all how to handle a power tool, it is better to entrust the work to professionals, as it is dangerous to health. Thank you for your attention and good luck!

Drywall in a short time has turned from a material of little use in repairs to one of the most demanded. Columns, arches, multi-level ceilings, false fireplaces - the lightness of the material in the work allows the master's imagination to unfold in full force. Even a beginner can make a drywall sheet, while observing all the recommendations and rules.

Peculiarities

The suspended ceiling is a single-level or multi-level metal frame, reinforced on the ceilings and walls of the room, sheathed with gypsum boards. A prerequisite is also the presence of light sources built into it.

First of all, you need to decide what constitutes a drywall sheet. If you do not go into details, then it can be explained as follows: this is a sheet of dry plaster, covered with cardboard on top.

Despite the apparent simplicity, the material has a lot of impressive advantages:

  • With the help of the gypsum board, very significant bumps and depressions in the ceiling can be leveled without spending significant effort. To do this, you need to take a liquid solution - and the advantage becomes even more obvious.
  • Inside the frame, on which the drywall sheets are attached, you can hide any wires and bring in all the desired communications, while leaving them invisible to the eye. And this is a big plus from the point of view of aesthetics.

  • Any desired lighting can be mounted in the ceiling made of this material, which allows you to achieve completely unique lighting effects.
  • Plasterboard sheets make it possible to create a multi-level ceiling, making the owner's imagination come true.
  • Due to the free space in the frame, you can arrange additional noise and heat insulation. It is enough just to lay an additional layer of mineral wool between the ceiling and the false ceiling.
  • GKL is mounted without using liquid, dry, which guarantees a minimum amount of dust and dirt.

Everything related to drywall, it is quite possible to carry out activities with your own hands. This means that you can make original design in accordance with your ideas.

Of course, it cannot be said that drywall is a material without flaws. Of course, they are, but they are more related to the installation of the material than to itself.

For example:

  • Due to the fact that a frame is used during the installation of a plasterboard ceiling, the height of the ceiling is reduced. And, if the ceilings are already low, this can be a problem.
  • If you do not have the skills to work with this material, then you can tinker with the frame for quite a long time: installation alone will be difficult, it is better to enlist the help of a partner.
  • It is impossible to violate the technology of the finishing process, otherwise, with a high probability, cracks will appear in the seams and between them.

Device

GKL boards represent the widest range of possibilities to create a ceiling.

The main components of a plasterboard ceiling are the following materials:

  • GKL sheets. They are chosen depending on the room in which the ceiling is installed, as well as the functionality of the sheet. Therefore, it is advisable to install moisture-resistant gypsum boards in the bathroom, and fire-resistant ones are perfect for the kitchen.
  • Profile for the frame, that is, the base on which the drywall sheets are attached. It ensures the stability of the entire structure. Profiles are divided into two types: starting and carrying. The starting profile runs along the perimeter of the ceiling, and gypsum boards are attached to the supporting structures.

  • Metal hangers to which the profiles are attached. It is possible to use conventional hangers or hangers with a bracket.
  • Dowels and self-tapping screws for drywall.
  • Finishing materials: reinforcing tape, putty, primer, fine-grained sandpaper, which is used to level the ceiling after the putty.

Views

A suspended ceiling can be mounted in many different configurations. Nevertheless, there are three main types, the rest are the basis for more complicated options.

Ceilings can be:

  • single-level;
  • simple two- or three-level;
  • complex.

Most budget option is, of course, an easy-to-install and inexpensive single-level ceiling. One way or another, its installation evens out the surface of the ceiling, making it amenable to easy decoration.

On the basis of the first level, the following are built - in this way, differences in the height of the ceiling are created.

Multilevel surfaces can also be classified into the following categories:

  • frame;
  • diagonal;
  • zonal;
  • complex ceilings of other shapes.

The frame structure is represented by a plasterboard box, located in the form of a frame along the perimeter of the ceiling surface. The chandelier hanging in the center of the ceiling will harmoniously fit into the composition.

In a diagonal structure, each subsequent level divides the ceiling along a conventionally drawn diagonal, and not necessarily in a straight line: it can be a wave or an arc. Either way, it makes half of the room stand out. Since the gypsum board is a flexible material, it will not be difficult to form a curly line.

The zonal design highlights a specific area, highlighting the work area or recreation area.

Complex structures can be given different shapes: arched, patterned, curly. The shape can also be in the form of a flower, a geometric shape, or a spiral. It all depends on the owner's imagination and the style in which it was decided to equip the room.

Design

The design of the plasterboard ceiling can have an infinite number of options.

There are a number of nuances:

  • If the room is spacious and has sufficient height, then it is permissible to arrange a multi-level ceiling and decorate it, for example, with stucco moldings, friezes, medallions, ovals. It is beautiful if the pattern on the parquet duplicates the pattern of the ceiling surface.
  • If the room has a large area, then it can be zoned, highlighting, for example, a recreation area with a home theater or dining area... In these cases, it is also good to provide appropriate lighting for each area with the possibility of separate switching on and off - the room will look even more impressive.

  • If the room is small and low, then it is better not to pile up multi-level structures in it - one level is quite enough. There is no need for large shades or a chandelier with pendants. Spotlights mounted in the ceiling surface will look most harmonious.
  • The cornice will add "air" to the space of the room if you make it small and let it go around the perimeter of the ceiling.
  • The following technique will help to visually enlarge the room: paint the surfaces of the ceiling and walls in one color, preferably of a light scale.
  • After consulting an interior designer, you might consider installing a ceiling mirror.

  • You can visually "raise" the ceiling in one more way: by combining one room in the interior stretch ceiling with a shiny, glossy surface and a suspended structure made of gypsum plasterboard.
  • The ceiling should not differ in style from the rest of the interior of the room. For example, in a room made in the Provence style, a ceiling with a mirrored surface will look strange.
  • The most original type of ceiling made of gypsum boards is arched. The lightest arched ceiling is semi-cylindrical. The main condition is to correctly mount the base for the ceiling.

There are four main ceiling design options:

  • single-level;
  • two-level;
  • three-level;
  • curly (this includes arches).

Single-level ceilings are simple and reliable. For small spaces, this is the best option.

You can decorate it in the following ways:

  • color in different colors;
  • cover with putty;
  • paint by hand;
  • paste over with wallpaper.

If the walls in the room are below 3 meters, then it is better to use light shades. Dark or bright colours can visually reduce an already small space.

Despite the fact that the ceiling is called flat, it should not have a perfect flat surface... You can make the level convex or concave for a completely different effect. It should be noted that this particular species false ceiling the easiest way to do it yourself.

The most popular option is two-level, as for the three-level one - it is quite difficult to execute.

A two-level ceiling provides many of the most variety of options, with their help, you can give different shapes to the ceiling surface, and the backlight can add even more originality to the design. It is not difficult to build such a ceiling, but nevertheless, certain efforts are required.

If the height of the ceiling allows, you can do something like a "reflection": place a ledge on the ceiling above a similar podium structure on the floor.

Structures made of gypsum boards, accompanied by thoughtful lighting, can look unusually impressive. The flight of design ideas can create original compositions: waves, a combination of matte and glossy surfaces, zigzags and ovals, hand-painted, 3D wallpaper ("wooden", "sky", "sea and palm trees"). Of course, the design is not limited to one game of levels and colors, no backlight desired effect will never be achieved. And here LEDs and halogen, chandeliers and shades, mirrors and spotlights are used.

Extremely attractive appearance have multi-tiered structures. It is best to construct them in a room with high and very high ceilings, for example, in a private house, since they "eat up" a significant part of the height of the room. Making them harder than, for example, bunk structure, and since drywall is an extremely workable material, it may take a little longer, and the effect will be overwhelming.

GKL stepped elements can be made to order by hiding in them, for example, ceiling beams or a ventilation hood. Built-in lighting sources are not even worth mentioning - they are a prerequisite for a multi-tiered fantasy ceiling structure.

A figured suspended ceiling requires considerable skill in its design and installation, however, non-standard elements (flower, solar system, clouds, starry sky) will appeal to everyone. Drywall has properties that allow you to create the desired figure or figures from it: you can build a structure from intertwined abstract forms, it looks especially good in rooms with a large area. Expensive but effective solution- patterns with small cells. A special chic to such a ceiling will give a "roll call" with small blotches of similar patterns on the walls.

An interesting option is the so-called floating ceiling. To create it, you need to select the shape (silhouette) that will be located under the ceiling. It is made separately from gypsum boards and attached to an already finished structure. Thus, the appearance is created that the ceiling element is floating in the air. As a rule, this method is combined with highlighting the "floating" element along the perimeter, which gives an additional effect to the structure.

Mounting

After the preparation of the ceiling surface is complete, it is time to begin the installation. It is important to strictly adhere to the sequence of actions and technologies required to carry out each step.

GKL ceiling can be:

  • hemming;
  • suspension.

In a hemmed structure, drywall sheets are attached to the ceiling surface using a wooden beam or a bent profile, which is called a filing. This is a great option for rooms with low ceiling heights. It is also well suited for installation in a home where wooden floors... The disadvantage of this type is the inability to hem drywall sheets with such high quality to get a perfectly flat surface.

For a suspended ceiling, gypsum board slabs are mounted on a frame made of profiles fixed to suspensions. This design is ideal for hiding ventilation, wires, lighting.

Cutting drywall sheets is most convenient if they are located vertically and leaned against the wall.

The installation of a false ceiling begins with the installation of the frame.

The secrets of this stage are described in the step-by-step instructions:

  • After the marking on the ceiling has been made, the guide profile (already drilled) is attached to the walls. Its edge is attached to the marking line. The elements of the wireframe will be located below this mark. This is an important step if you decide to make the ceiling yourself.
  • Having pasted over the guide profiles with a sealing tape, they are fixed on the dowels. The dowels should be screwed on in advance.

  • Fastening the hangers every 0.5 m. The initial step from the wall is 0.25 m. Attach the hangers to the anchors. It is important to take into account that drilling forms dust, therefore, all work of this plan is best done with protective goggles and a respirator. When the weights are fixed, their edges need to be bent.
  • The next step is to install the ceiling profile. After installation, it must be fixed to the rail. Self-tapping screws without a drill will help with this.
  • After that, you need to make jumpers - they strengthen the structure. It is imperative to check the position of the profiles using the level. The jumpers are fixed with "crabs".

  • If insulation is needed, then mineral wool is placed in the jumpers. It has both the property of thermal insulation and absorbs noise. Working with mineral wool also necessarily requires the use of a respirator, in addition, gloves are required.
  • The installation of the crate is completed, the next thing to do is the wiring of the electrical cable. The wires must be in a corrugated sleeve - in no case should the communication parts be allowed to press or hang on the frame.

  • After that, you can start sheathing the frame with gypsum boards. All sheets must be prepared in advance: in the lying position they must be stored for some time in the very room where they will be mounted. In addition, holes for fixtures must be made in them.
  • Plasterboard sheathing begins from the corner, fastening occurs on self-tapping screws every 15 cm.
  • Sheets are not installed end-to-end: it is imperative to leave 4-5 mm between them.

The installation of the ceiling is over, you can proceed to finishing, but only after the seams have been completed. This is very important, because if the seams are poorly sealed, then this is fraught with cracks throughout the ceiling. You can do this with a serpyanka mesh or putty.

If the method of filling the seams is chosen, then the sequence of actions is as follows:

  • impregnation of joints with a primer with acrylates;
  • when dry, dilute the putty mixture, for example, gypsum;
  • fill the seams with a mixture and level with a spatula (a wide one is suitable);
  • additionally do the same in the gaps between the sheets and the caps of the screws;

  • when dry, glue the serpyanka and putty;
  • apply the finishing filler with a maximum thickness of 1.5 cm;
  • rub off roughness with fine grain grinding;
  • remove dust with a dry sponge or vacuum cleaner;
  • apply a primer with acrylic.

After that, surface repairs will not be needed for a very long time, and finishing work can begin.

Project. The properties of drywall are such that they allow you to create structures of any complexity. But, the more complex the future design, the more accurate the calculation and plan should be. As with any job, a project is needed to install a false ceiling. This includes a graphic representation, perhaps a cost estimate or list of required materials, and a sequence of actions. In addition to the list of materials, you also need to calculate their required amount.

The project of a ceiling made of gypsum boards should ideally include:

  • Sketch (drawing), which contains an image of the future structure. The sketch should be large-scale and color.
  • The drawing is a reflection of all the elements of the supporting structure. If there are two or more ceiling levels, the drawing may contain more than one sheet.
  • Calculation of materials. The more carefully it is drawn up, the less likely it is that compliance with the installation technology will be violated.

If you plan to do the installation yourself, it is better to consult with professionals, taking the project with you. So it will be easier for them to find the error and point out it, which will help to avoid losses in the quality of the future design.

When creating a sketch, you need to take into account the following constant positions:

  • area of ​​the room;
  • ceiling height and shape;
  • floor and wallpaper colors, patterns on them;
  • the style in which the room is decorated;
  • design and dimensions of furniture in the room.

Having drawn a sketch, it is advisable to transfer it to tracing paper. Subsequently, tracing paper will be superimposed on the skeleton drawing to clarify the final design.

If you put all of the above on one sheet, the drawing will contain too much information and look overwhelmed.

In the case of planning a ceiling with one level, the lathing cell is 0.5x0.6 m.If several tiers are planned or something massive will be placed on the ceiling, for example, a chandelier or a mirror, the cell size is reduced to 0.5x0.4 m. the distance between the suspensions - from 1 m will decrease to 0.5-0.6 m.

The drawing of the lathing of the first tier should contain all the information about the attachment points and the passage of the profiles, the tab for the lamps, the points of installation of the suspensions. The same should be contained in the drawings of all subsequent tiers.

After finishing drawing up drawings and adjusting the sketch by superimposing them on top of each other, you need to proceed to calculations. They should take into account everything: from the number of sheets of drywall to cans with putty. In addition, if the installation is planned to be done by hand, then a separate list should be drawn up, which should reflect the availability of the necessary tools.

Upon completion of the calculations, you need to transfer the graphic part of the project to the ceiling surface. The more accurately this is done, the more correct, smoother and more durable the future suspended ceiling will be. After marking the ceiling, you can get a rough idea of ​​how the future object will look like. If this is not what you wanted, you need to make adjustments.

Preparation

Before starting work, you need to make a number of preparatory measures on the surface of the ceiling, namely:

  • Clean the old topcoat. This can be done using, for example, a spatula.
  • Remove with special antiseptics stains of mold, grease, rust, mildew.
  • Putty the cracked areas. For this purpose, it is better to take a cement-based putty.
  • Prime the coating with a compound that contains an antiseptic (it will be correct to use "Color" or "Varnish"). This condition is imperative, otherwise the appearance of stains on the ceiling is inevitable. It is also one of the activities to help level the surface.

After carrying out all these actions, the surface is ready. After waiting for the primer to dry, you need to de-energize the room in which the ceiling is planned to be installed, and installation can begin.

Instruments. Preparing tools and fixtures is an important preparatory stage of work. Unfortunately, due attention is not always paid to it, as a result of which work constantly has to be interrupted, since there is either not enough accessories, or tape measures at hand. Therefore, it is better to prepare in advance everything that you may need, and not to be distracted in the process.

To install a suspended ceiling, you need the following:

  • guide and ceiling profile;
  • U-shaped suspensions;
  • profile connectors or "crabs";
  • dowels and screws, and best of all - anchors;
  • drywall sheets;

  • self-tapping screws (both for metal and for gypsum board);
  • sealing tape;
  • finishing material;
  • hydro and thermal insulation material.

There are several rules that must be followed when carrying out repair or finishing work:

  • You should not try to save on materials, for example, on a metal profile. The cheaper it is, the thinner it is, respectively, it will bend and hold the structure poorly. Having made the right choice, the master ensures the reliability and durability of the structure.
  • It is good if the master has levels of two sizes: one up to 1 m high, the second 2-2.5 m. If there is a laser level and the skills to use it, then two levels are not needed.
  • The thickness of drywall sheets should not exceed 9 mm, otherwise a different frame (stiffer) and a different sequence of installation steps are needed.
  • It is important to take into account the purpose of the room in which the ceiling is mounted, and select the material taking it into account. For example, for installation in a bathroom, drywall sheets must be moisture resistant, that is, ordinary gypsum boards will not work.

Lighting

The choice of lighting for a suspended ceiling is a very important point, because lamps can make a composition a "highlight" of an interior or completely kill it with their tasteless combination.

They usually use recessed spotlights., then the lighting can be made multi-position. Most often, they use halogen lamps, and the body is metal, glass, brass or thermoplastic. In addition, the luminaires can be painted in a variety of sophisticated shades, such as polished and matt brass, bronze, matt or black chrome, to make them even more attractive.

For illumination in the background of multilevel ceiling surfaces, fluorescent lamps, sometimes neon and duralight lamps, are used.

As a point, lighting sources with halogen lamps are preferable, since when they are installed, the ceiling height does not decrease as much as when installing lamps with standard lamps - this is convenient when the ceilings in the room are already low.

Halogen lamps are classified as warm-toned light sources close to the white spectrum, so they do not distort the shades in the room. It is better not to touch the glass surface of the lamp with your hands - there is a high probability that greasy stains will remain. This, in turn, will lead to the fact that the glass of the bulb melts at the point of contact. It is best to use a clean cloth glove or just a clean cloth to do this.

When installing lamps, one should not forget about fire regulations and rules, for example, about ensuring a sufficient distance between the ceiling and the ceiling. When using a dimmer as a switch (in order to smoothly control the brightness of the lighting), you do not need to install protection on the lamps.

The selection of spotlights is carried out in accordance with the purpose of the room and the presence of the number of windows in it. LED or energy saving lamps are best suited for this. Thanks to spotlights, the room can be divided into zones, for example, in a studio apartment.

The transformers are usually located behind the plasterboard slabs on the false ceiling and can be accessed through the lamp holes. It is better if there are several transformers in one room - one for a group of luminaires. So, in case of failure of one, the rest will continue to work. The likelihood that all transformers will burn out at once is extremely small. In addition, one large and heavy transformer can act too hard on drywall sheets.

Transformers are divided into the following types:

  • induction;
  • electronic.

Induction is heavier, but more reliable and cheaper. Electronic ones are lighter, but more expensive and break more often.

The question "how many lamps will be required to illuminate one room" is individual for each owner. This problem is easily solved when sketching a sketch of the future ceiling and markings. Illumination of a living room in an average city apartment will require an average of 12 50 W lamps. And it is better if the switch is two- or three-key, thereby making it possible to adjust the intensity of lighting or highlight the area of ​​the room where it is needed.

Also interesting decision there will be a dimmer setting that adjusts the overall brightness of the lighting in the room. It's functional as well as beautiful. In addition, the dimmer will cut energy consumption by more than half and extend the life of halogen lamps. This is because the lamp operates more softly. temperature conditions, as it heats up smoothly and gradually reduces brightness.

Of course, installing spotlights along with halogen lamps will be more costly, but later this will create significant energy savings.

To mount a suspended ceiling with light sources, you need to mark the sheets of drywall for the holes for them, and then start drilling with an electric drill with a crown attachment. You need to drill holes only after the purchase of lamps takes place, since standard size there is no hole underneath. Putty is only possible after all holes have been drilled.

LED lighting is divided into the following types:

  • domed;
  • linear;
  • directional light LEDs;
  • LED panels.

White fluorescent lamps are used for the most part to illuminate the multilevel ceiling surface in the background. Such lamps are placed next to each other so as not to interrupt the light surface on the ceiling. With this in mind, you can calculate how many lamps you need. As a result, the lighting should be soft, diffused, and comfortable for the eyes.

If the perimeter of the ceiling surface is too large and you need a lot of lamps, you can use alternative options. For example, duralight, which is a bendable plastic light cord-tube. Miniature incandescent lamps assembled into a garland are pressed into it. For an apartment, you can use the fixing modification - it glows continuously.

Duralight is cheap, easy to install, durable, available big choice colors, does not require a large "visor" in the ceiling for installation, consumes a small amount of electricity. The downside is low lighting, but it's easy to fix it by wrapping it two or three times instead of once.

Speaking about an electroluminescent wire (cold neon), it should be noted that it is essentially a flexible PVC cord, into which a current-carrying wire is sealed. This cord is easy to cut and solder - this is its difference with duralight. It is durable, it can be laid out in configurations of different shapes, its light is dazzlingly beautiful at night, it is invisible in the daytime. Its scope is very wide.

Electrical wiring should be installed in compliance with a number of necessary conditions:

  • This must be done before the start of finishing work, before installing drywall sheets on the crate.
  • Like any other work on electrical installation, you should start with the development of a plan, which will provide for what type of wiring will be installed, a diagram is drawn with the required number of switches, as well as junction boxes, cartridges and other devices. Also on the diagram, the places for their installation should be determined in such a way that it is convenient to use them.

  • The connection of wires in places where they are broken must be connected only by means of an adapter block - twisting is unacceptable, especially for wires, the material for which is copper or aluminum.
  • The wires must be marked.
  • The wires must not come into contact with metal. They can be laid near pipelines, for example, with gas, only at an interval of at least 40 cm.
  • Laying of wires in bundles is inadmissible. In addition, it is forbidden to lay wires if the gaps are less than 3 mm between each one.
  • Connecting and branching wires in rooms is possible only with the help of junction and branch boxes.

V current trends decor does not imply the use of chandeliers with pendants to illuminate the room. Nevertheless, there are successful examples of a classic style solution, when a chandelier is very appropriate. But, having decided to hang it, you need to take care of strengthening the ceiling structure in the place where this will happen, since the gypsum boards are not designed to withstand such a weight.

Subtleties of operation and maintenance

It is not difficult to take care of the gypsum plasterboard ceiling. So that it does not lose its attractiveness for a long time, periodically you need to wipe it with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth. If there is a lot of dust, then the ceiling can be vacuumed, after making sure that the brush is clean. If in doubt, it is advisable to wash the brush with soap and dry thoroughly. If this is neglected, dark lines may remain on the ceiling from the brush.

Light sources (be they chandeliers or lamps) also need care. They should be wiped with a dry, clean cloth, bearing in mind that they are energized. If a yellowish coating has formed around the lamps, then it can be removed with a special felt-tip pen.

Dust and dirt spots are removed with a slightly damp cloth or viscose cloth. If the dirt is heavy, you can try dishwashing detergent, or if there are large stains, it is better to freshen up the paint on the ceiling surface.

To avoid mistakes common to beginners, it is important to consider some of the features of drywall:

  • In order for the gypsum to give away unnecessary moisture, it must lie down. That is why some time must pass between the delivery of the gypsum boards to the room where the installation will be carried out and the installation itself. Otherwise, the sheets may deform.
  • Work with drywall should be carried out in a room whose temperature is constant and not lower than +10 C. In addition, in these temperature conditions, the gypsum board must be at least 4 days - two days before installation and two days after, only after 2 days can be repaired seams.
  • The main rule is that before you cut, drill or screw something, you need to check and calculate everything. It is not in vain that such an important stage as design is present in the installation of a suspended ceiling. Only after completing all calculations, combining the sketch and drawings, marking the ceiling itself, do you need to proceed to actions.

Beautiful examples in the interior

A two-level geometric plasterboard ceiling with spotlights and LED panels.

Original flower-shaped ceiling. The backlight goes around the entire perimeter.

A two-level ceiling, in the lighting of which a chandelier and lamps are combined.

There are many options for how to place the TV in the room: install it on a special cabinet, hang it from the wall on brackets, or embed it in a niche. The last method is remarkable in that it allows you to hide wires and sockets, to harmoniously fit the screen into the surrounding space, and often to decorate the interior in an original way. In addition, arranging a drywall niche does not require large costs or special skills - you just need to be able to hold a knife and a screwdriver in your hands, and we will tell you about the installation technology and design options in this article.

We make a niche for a TV from the gypsum board with our own hands

To make a beautiful TV portal, you need to prepare:

- aluminum profile CW (ceiling and wall) and UW (guide), flexible for curved elements;
- accessories - connectors, suspensions, extension cords, corners;
- fasteners (self-tapping screws for gypsum boards and profiles, dowels);
- drywall sheets - standard, if necessary - arched;
- primer and plaster for drywall;
- serpyanka tape for sealing seams, joints, inner corners;
- Decoration Materials.

From the tools you will need a perforator (to drill holes in the wall), a level (preferably a laser), a screwdriver, a knife for cutting drywall, scissors or a hacksaw for metal, sandpaper for grinding gypsum board, a paint thread, a spatula, a roller for finishing.

First, you need to decide on the design of the future niche. It can be protruding, with open corners, or recessed. In the second option, you will have to close it with drywall most walls, but thanks to this, the interior will become more thoughtful and stylish.

By shape, there are rectangular horizontal, rectangular vertical, square, oval, curved and complex structures. The standard rules apply here: lines extended upward visually raise the ceiling, and parallel lines to the floor allow you to expand a narrow wall. Unusual geometry is suitable for rooms with non-standard layouts or spacious rooms.

Additional shelves are often arranged around the TV for placing a stereo system, decor and books. Optionally, you can even make a whole rack or drywall cabinets, which will look like a single ensemble next to the niche.

Installation of the structure is carried out in stages. First, using a laser level and a tape measure, markings are applied to the wall, then a metal frame is constructed according to the drawing. The depth of the niche should be calculated based on the thickness of the TV, adding 5-7 cm for the gap for the wires and ventilation. The free space between the wall and the screen is necessary so that air can circulate there and cool the equipment. It is also customary to leave space around the monitor - firstly, it is more convenient to hang and remove it, and secondly, after some time you may want to purchase a model with a larger diagonal.

Before starting work, you need to decide where the electrical wiring will be hidden - you can make channels under it or hide it inside plastic skirting boxes.

The guide profile is mounted first, while the dowels are placed at a distance of no more than 40 cm from each other. Then vertical elements are attached to the ceiling and floor. The base of a small niche can be made separately and then installed on the wall.

The next stage is to cover the frame with plasterboard, previously cut into the appropriate shapes. You should start with small and complex elements. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, the steps between them are 25-30 cm.

When the drywall is installed, it is leveled with a putty and primed. Seams and joints are reinforced with serpyanka, the outer edges are closed with perforated metal corners. On top of the primer layer, a starting putty is applied, after grinding - finishing.

How to design a niche for a TV

You need to be creative in the design of a niche for a TV - it can be partially or completely painted water-based paint, paste over with wallpaper, sheathe with flexible stone, fabric, paint by hand or using stencils, decorate with polyurethane stucco molding, lay out with mosaics or decorative tiles... It is only important to adhere to a sense of style so that the portal does not conflict with the rest of the environment.

Plasterboard niche for TV in the living room

As a rule, in the living room they are not limited to just one depression under the TV screen, but they arrange a whole wall - with shelves, interesting lighting, beautiful decor and paintings. This is an excellent alternative to outdated chipboard headsets.

Plasterboard construction takes up less space than standard cabinets and shelves, and it looks more modern. In addition, having set the goal of zoning the space of an apartment, it can be installed instead of internal partition saving free place, materials and partially replacing furniture. Functional shelves, for example, for books, should be made of wood or durable glass - they will definitely withstand the load and diversify the design.

Depending on the style chosen, the TV niche in the living room can be decorated in different ways. For example, country music will successfully complement a false fireplace and decorative rock; in modern style, smooth asymmetry will be appropriate; minimalism requires a clear rectangular geometry; Provence will be decorated with delicate floral patterns, and the classics will be decorated with columns, gilding and stucco molding.

But for all the splendor of the finish, the TV should take center stage. This means that clumsy, saturated details should be avoided in and around the niche - they will compete with the video sequence, causing eye fatigue and irritation. For the same reason, it is better to close large shelves with doors so that the variety of things on them does not cause a feeling of disorder.

Plasterboard niche for TV in the bedroom

In general, the rules for decorating a niche in the bedroom are almost the same as in the living room. The only caveat is that it is advisable to choose softer, pastel shades and unobtrusive light. Smooth lines, as well as rounded curves, are subconsciously perceived to be safer and more calm than angular structures or sharp kinks. However, this is a matter of taste.

Since a small room is usually reserved for a bedroom, it is also better to make a niche compact. On the sides or at the bottom of the TV, you can arrange paired grooves for stereo speakers, and under them - shelves for disks, magazines and various trifles. The remaining space will help fill in photographs, interior candles or figurines.

Illumination of a niche for a TV

Backlighting plays a significant role in the design of a drywall niche for a TV, making it noticeable and attractive in the evening. V modern design the safest LED technology is used in the form of spotlights, diode strips or strings.

An interesting effect can be achieved with neon threads, distinguished by a bright uniform glow. Usually, flexible tapes and the threads frame the perimeter, placing them in inner corners shelves, behind the equipment (monitor, speakers), at the ends of the protruding niche. In this case, the light should be directed to the front wall or to the sides, but in no case at the room - otherwise it will blind the eyes.

The same rule applies to spot lamps. They are usually mounted in several pieces at the same interval, placed inside the recesses, above or below, as well as along the inner edge of the relief elements.

As for the shade of lighting, warm white is considered the most comfortable for the eyes. A yellowish undertone creates a cozy, relaxed atmosphere, although next to it, for example, pink will appear peachy and blue will appear greenish. Cool white simulates harsher daylight and creates crisp shadows without altering the surrounding colors in any way. Neon shades (blue, green, red, purple) are best used only in the living room and turned off while watching TV.

GKL niche design for TV - photo

In addition to the above, we offer you a selection of interesting options design of plasterboard structures and niches for TV. Among these photos, everyone can choose the design that they want to repeat at home, in their living room or bedroom. Inspiration for you and beautiful interiors!

Even in ancient Roman architecture, podiums were used in the arrangement of dwellings and public places. Today, with the help of the podium, many designers improve the proportions of space, and also divide the room into zones for more functionality... The podium resembles a step, which, as a rule, has a height of no more than 25 cm. Of course, if necessary, the structure can be higher, but in this case it is made multi-tiered with a wide platform at the top. The podium can act as a decoration, while also performing practical functions. In this article, we will talk about how to properly organize the space with the help of the podium, what materials it is made of, how to place this structure correctly, in addition, we will talk about the features of making a frame podium bed.

The importance of the podium in the interior

With the help of the podium, you can adjust, expand the usable area, place communications, zone the room. It can be used as a piece of furniture and an additional source of lighting. Now let's talk about each meaning of the podium separately.

Space zoning. In accordance with the characteristics of human perception, those objects that are raised higher attract attention more than those that are lower. The part of the room, which is located on the podium, stands out, making the necessary accent in the interior of the room. Any functional area will look quite appropriate on the podium, be it a nursery or a bedroom, an office, a kitchen or a dining room.

The use of the podium in one-room apartments and studio apartments. After all, they are the multifunctional premises.

Correction of room proportions. The podium visually changes the perception of space. This result is achieved only with proper installation. You can expand a narrow room with a podium, rounded. The angularity of a square room is perfectly shaded by a corner podium.


Placement of communications. On a podium made by frame technology communication systems, wiring cables, and video and audio equipment can be easily hidden. If you make a podium in the bathroom, then pipes and other elements of engineering communications will successfully hide under it.

Expansion of the usable area of ​​the room. It is possible to provide boxes in the design, in which it will be possible to store things. This is a very significant detail in small apartments.

The podium as an additional source of lighting. At the end of the podium, you can mount decorative lamps or LED strip of the corresponding color. The style of the interior will be successfully emphasized with the help of lighting fixtures. Additional lighting will be made in the recreation area or in the guest part of the room.

A podium that serves as furniture. Podiums often serve as a cozy bed or sofa. To do this, they are upholstered with foam rubber and draped with fabric. In this way, an ordinary bed can be replaced with a beautiful multi-level design. The berth can be pulled out from a special niche of the structure or be on top of the podium. If you make a bed in a niche, then the upper part of the podium can be additionally used as you like. For example, as an office, home theater, living room or nursery.

Where to install correctly

Make a podium not everywhere. When choosing a place for it, it is important to take into account some of the features of a particular room, and indeed of the structure itself. The height of the ceiling in the room in which the podium will be made must be at least 2.75 m. Otherwise, the podium will look ridiculous, visually reducing the space.

The central location of the structure is unacceptable. Firstly, it will be very inconvenient to walk around such a bulky podium. Secondly, it will more resemble a tribune for theatrical performances, which is why its original purpose will be lost. The structure cannot be erected in the passage area either.

The choice of a suitable podium location is in many cases determined by the configuration of the room. Its boundaries can be defined by arches, niches and partitions. V narrow room a rectangular podium looks great on the width of the wall.

If the structure is made as a bed or for storing things, then it must be installed in the place where the curbstone or bed would just fit. Rounded podiums add coziness and comfort to the room. However, such structures are more difficult to furnish.

Construction type

Podiums are made from timber frame or monolithic concrete. By the way, the frame is sheathed with one of the types of floor material. Each type of construction has its own undeniable advantages and disadvantages.

Monolithic podium. Concrete is poured into a pre-made formwork, which will exactly repeat the shape of the finished podium. Then its surface is leveled with a screed. Then they are already laid flooring... It can be parquet, tiles, carpet, linoleum, laminate, etc. The monolithic podium is incredibly reliable and durable. It does not rot, does not absorb moisture and is able to withstand heavy loads. Its main drawback is weight, because even a not very high structure creates a colossal load on the floor. A monolithic podium can only be made in private houses, in apartments it is most likely to damage the interfloor overlap.

Frame wooden or metal podium. The design is lightweight, so that it does not load the floor. This type is ideal for apartments. The do-it-yourself frame podium is easy to install, which makes it possible to manufacture multi-stage structures without much effort. To improve the reliability and strength of the frame, it should be provided with adequate rigidity. For this, intermediate lags are installed in the structure.

Frame podiums can be built both in houses and apartments. The main thing is to choose the right starting material for the frame and finishing of the finished structure.

If indoors high humidity, then the base is made of a metal profile and sheathed with tiles or wood-polymer composite. In rooms with a normal humidity level, the frame is made of wooden beams... The base is sheathed with multi-layer plywood or OSB. If glued laminated timber is used as a lag, then it must be pre-treated with special antifungal impregnations and anti-fire agents.

Simple bed

It is important for every resident of the city to have his own corner where you can fully relax and unwind. This is due to the inexorably growing rhythm of life. A comfortable bed is often the main helper for a healthy stay. If you live in a small apartment, then don't think that you won't have to sleep in a double bed. Previously, in small apartments, the only way out was to purchase a book-bed, but today this position is far from the only one. Today's technologies and innovations make it possible to achieve maximum comfort even in small spaces... Nowadays podium beds are replacing book beds more and more often.

There are two types of podium beds. One is building a podium and placing a double mattress on it. So, you can also place spacious boxes under the bed for storing things, for example, bed linen, a spare blanket with pillows, toys for children, etc. The second type of podium is a platform and a retractable bed. The site may contain an office, playroom or even a kitchen. Thus, it is very easy to optimize the space, because during the day the bed will not interfere with anyone.

So, in order to build a simple podium in an apartment with drawers, you should first develop a sketch, determine the number of drawers, and decide on the type of frame finishing. Then you need to collect the necessary tools:

  1. Tape measure, pencil and long ruler.
  2. Hammer.
  3. Self-tapping screws and dowels.
  4. Drill.
  5. Screwdriver.
  6. Jigsaw.
  7. Screwdriver.
  8. A construction stapler will come in handy if carpet is used as a podium finish.

Materials and accessories are selected depending on the wishes. Now it is necessary to carry out the layout of the space for the future location of the podium bed. The process is very similar to laying a wooden floor on logs, with the only difference that a mattress will lie on the surface of the podium at the final stage.

The most economical option for a podium bed will be a structure consisting of installed stable legs, a rectangular wooden frame with a rolled chipboard sheet. In the end, a purchased mattress is placed on such a structure. This type of bed is assembled in just a day!

So, the chipboard needs to be fixed not easily on the legs, but on the perimeter made of boards. In accordance with the markings, a timber is attached to the screws. Such a simple frame will become the basis for mounting the legs.

A podium bed with drawers is more expensive and more difficult to make. The process consists in fixing the timber along the perimeter of the structure, followed by the installation of the boards. To correctly calculate the size of the podium, it is necessary to take into account the size of the room in which it is installed. The frame should be 5 cm higher than in the case of installing a simple podium without boxes. The thickness of the board used must be 22 mm. It will be required for the construction of the outer panels of the podium, as well as the transverse bar, which is installed in the center of the structure. In the production of internal parts of the blocks, chipboard is used, which has a thickness of 19 mm. The support frame is constructed from the inside of the block. Initially, support bars should be installed, measuring 47 × 27 mm - they are installed horizontally, and then support bars. To distribute the load on the support bars evenly, one of them is installed in the center, and two are placed at the edges. The bars are fastened with screws.

To make drawers, you must purchase the required amount of boards with a thickness of 16 mm. Parts should be prepared in advance, and then assembled. The bottom is made using plywood with a thickness of 10 mm.

As for the size of the boxes, they should be calculated taking into account the inner space of the podium.

A special glue is used to connect the parts. With the help of clamps, the structure is pulled together until the glue is completely dry.

Pull-out bed

To make a pull-out bed, you must first think over a pull-out system, because it must withstand heavy loads. To do this, you should purchase guides and rollers. The frame is made without any special snags, one might say, traditionally. The biggest snag in the installation of a pull-out bed.

The podium, however, like the floor in the entire room, should be flat. This is due to the fact that furniture will be installed on it, and you will have to walk on the structure. The height of the structure is preliminarily measured on the walls. Applying a level (ideally a laser, but the usual one will also work) draw a straight line along the walls of contact with the podium, which should correspond to the dimensions and height of the finished structure.

For the manufacture of the frame, as in the cases described above, a bar is used. Support bars are attached either to the floor or to the wall. It depends on the size of the catwalk, as well as the presence of niches. A structure of small size, as a rule, is anchored to the wall vertically.

The strength of the structure directly depends on the distance between the posts, the standard pitch is 40 cm.

Now you can assemble the upper part of the frame. To do this, horizontal bars are laid on the racks, which are connected to each other at an angle of 90 °. The joints can be fixed with metal corners. This is especially important when constructing a large podium.

The inner surface, in cases where it is not used for niches, should be filled with foam or mineral wool. These materials will serve as good sound insulation. This will reduce the booming sound generated by the empty interior space when walking. Examples of these processes can be seen in the photo.

The frame cladding must be strong, therefore, sheet material of the proper quality is used for this purpose. These can be gypsum fiber boards, boards, OSB or USB, plywood sheets. Sheets of cladding material are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. To prevent deformation of the surface due to swelling of the cladding material, be sure to leave expansion joints with a width of 2-3 mm.

In cases where inner space is used, the frame should also be sheathed from the inside. If there are no internal niches, then the end of the podium should also be sheathed.

As for the finishing, it is carried out using a variety of floor materials... It can be parquet, carpet, cork, laminate, linoleum, tiles, etc. The process of finishing the front of the podium deserves special attention. It is sheathed in the same way as the top of the podium in cases where it has an even border. If it is wavy, then a flexible material that is easily bendable is used for sheathing. It is recommended to use flexible plywood, PVC skirting boards, metal profiles made of aluminum or brass, MDF panels.

The bed is made in the same way as drawer, the main thing here is to maintain its exact size and correctly install the guides and rollers. The quality of these moving elements plays a key role, so it is extremely risky to economize on their purchase.

After the production of the podium has come to an end, you should walk along it. This is done to evaluate squeaks and sags. If there are defects, then they must be eliminated.

In cases where the production processes are completed in the correct sequence, you can proceed with the installation of furniture.

If you have any questions on a topic, do not hesitate to ask the specialists working on the site. Perhaps you followed some advice? Then share how the above material helped you. In any case, your comments will benefit your readers.

Video

Explore the process of building a podium by watching the video:

Photo

A step-by-step guide with photos and videos on how to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands. Nuances and subtleties of installation technology


In the framework of previous articles, we dealt with ceilings and, now we will consider drywall suspension systems... Ceiling decoration is a responsible task, on the implementation of which the overall picture of the interior of the room largely depends.

Suspended plasterboard ceilings allow you to create interiors in a room in different styles

To level the level of the ceiling, in parallel with this, eliminating surface irregularities, false ceilings help. In terms of design options, such suspended structures are very diverse: here and, and vinyl, and and aluminum, etc.

There is nothing difficult in making a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands. Any owner with basic skills in construction and repair work can easily cope with this task. The main thing is to choose wisely necessary materials and carry out the installation, adhering to a number of recommendations.

Selection of materials and tools

The key to reliability and durability of the structure is right choice material. To assemble a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you should purchase the main components of the structure in advance, which include:


To fix the profiles, you will need:


To fix the suspensions, you also need to prepare 8x10 dowels. Galvanized screws 4.2x51 will help to connect the profiles to each other and attach the frame to the concrete base. To fix the drywall sheets, self-tapping screws with a length of 25 mm will be needed.

To install the structure, you will need tools:


The building level is needed to accurately mark the horizontal line for the installation of the guide profile. A two-meter level will be required when marking drywall sheets.

To complete finishing work after installation with your own hands, you should prepare materials in advance, including:

  • Serpyanka - reinforcing tape for seams;
  • Sealing self-adhesive tape;
  • Acrylic primer;
  • Joint putty;
  • Paint brush or roller;
  • Medium spatula;
  • Fine-grained sandpaper;
  • Sound and thermal insulation (if necessary).

The self-adhesive, porous sealing tape helps to ensure that the substructure adheres tightly to the concrete surface.

Bonding seams with serpyanka

Preparatory work

The first thing to do before installing a false ceiling with your own hands is to solve the issue of lighting the room. At this stage, it is important to choose the type of luminaires to be installed, their power, location on the ceiling surface and the total number of lighting fixtures.

The height of the frame will depend on these parameters, which ultimately will be reflected in the height of the walls of the room.

Having designed the lighting of the false ceiling, they carry out the wiring of electrical wires, the ends of which are lowered down in the places where the lighting fixtures are installed and secured with clamps.

Schematic: installation of the lighting system

To determine the level of the ceiling and create a perfectly flat line for arranging the frame, first mark the walls. To simplify the task, strokes are first applied with a pencil along the walls of the room at a convenient height of 1.7 m, each time being guided by the laser or water level. Then they are connected with a paint cord into a single line.

Then, using a tape measure, measure the distance from the drawn line to the base surface, determining the lowest point of the ceiling.

Tip: To calculate the height of the future frame from the intended lowest point of the base surface, they retreat downward by the height of the profile and add 5-8 mm to this value per gap. When installing spotlights, the height of the frame should be correlated with the size of their base.

Having established the distance from the lowest point mark to the horizontal line, a parallel line is drawn under the ceiling. It will serve as a guide for fixing the guide profile.

Installation of the frame of the suspended structure

A guide profile is installed along the perimeter of the room, placing it so that the lower end coincides with the horizontal line drawn on the wall.

Suspended ceiling metal frame

Having measured the required length of the profile, cut it with metal scissors. Then, pressing tightly against the line on the wall, fix it on the dowels, drilling directly through the profile. For creating solid construction the interval between the holes should be at least 30-40 cm, and at the edges and in the corners - 15 cm.

In places where the middle of the plasterboard sheets are located, it is worthwhile to provide additional fastening. A sealing tape is glued to each profile, fixing the structure to the wall with dowels.

Installation of the ceiling profile is performed in several stages:


Sheathing of the GKL frame

The principle of attaching drywall sheets to a metal frame is quite simple. They are raised to the level of the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws every 10-15 cm.
When installing drywall sheets, it is important to follow a number of recommendations:

The sheets must be fastened parallel to the longitudinal profiles, excluding the coincidence of the joints. In the places where segments and whole sheets join, to prevent possible cracks during subsequent puttying, it is necessary to make recesses with a knife.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard

All sheet joints must be located strictly on the profiles. A gap of 1 mm is always left between adjacent sheets.

Screws begin to screw in from the corner of the sheet, moving towards the center. They are screwed in at right angles, "sinking" the caps into the sheet by 1 mm.

Tip: To cut a sheet along or across, you need to cut the cardboard sheath with a knife from one side at the intended point, applying a rule. Then bend it along the notch line, cutting through the cardboard from the opposite side.

It is convenient to use a hacksaw to obtain rectangular holes, and an electric drill equipped with a special "crown" for lamps for round ones. If it is necessary to make a round hole with a diameter of more than 80 mm, it is enough to drill several holes along the contour of the circle, and squeeze the inner part of the formed circle outward.

Other secrets of craftsmanship when working with drywall video:

Having sheathed the frame with sheets, the mounted ceiling is allowed to "settle" for one or two days. After that, they move on to surface finishing. First, cover it with a primer. Then all joints are carefully sealed with putty, and the seams are reinforced with reinforcing tape. In addition to the joints, the "recessed" screw heads are putty.
The putty ceiling is left for a day. After the finishing material has completely dried, the joints are “sanded” with fine-grained sandpaper. The cleaned surface is covered with a finishing putty. After drying, the joints are re-"sanded", carefully inspected by the light of the lamp, and if irregularities and scratches are detected, they are again covered with a finish. Final sanding is performed when the material is completely dry, i.e. after 7-8 hours. Ideas for finishing options can be taken from photos on the web.

Having mastered the technology of installing a single-level suspended ceiling, it will be possible to move on to more complex structures, using interesting combined options instead of standard solutions.

Plasterboard suspended ceiling: photo