House, design, repair, decor. Yard and garden. Do it yourself

House, design, repair, decor. Yard and garden. Do it yourself

» What a wet facade system is better. What is a wet facade

What a wet facade system is better. What is a wet facade

Advantages and disadvantages of wet (plaster) facade

The insulation of the walls is currently the usual business in the field of construction, since each person wants to organize in his house full comfort, as well as save residential space from the cold and excess moisture from the street.

As you know, about 40 percent of all heat takes about the walls, therefore special components and materials that can resist this factor are used for their isolation. Such a definition, as the "wet facade" has long been heard among our compatriots, and the presented version of the insulation of the walls is not in vain received such an unusual name. The fact is that the insulating material is dissolved with water, which provides a more convenient application of the insulator to the walls.

Benefits of wet (plaster) facade

  • Suitable for premises even small areas. One of the most important advantages is that such an insulation system does not require additional space in the house.
  • The absence of additional strengthening. The ease of the type of insulation will not require additional measures to strengthen the overall design. The wet facade does not need any modification of the walls, since the weight of 1 square meters. M plastered surface is completely insignificant, and almost no way deformed under the influence of the atmosphere.
  • Durability. Materials used in the works are so strong that there may be about 30 years without the requirement of additional maintenance. Optionally, the color of the material can be updated or change to a new one, which will have a positive effect on the appearance of the construction.
  • Additional thosethe effect of noise insulation. Technology outdoor thermal insulation It has long been considered the most economical and reliable in terms of preserving the heat of the rooms. Moreover, in houses and offices, it becomes not only warmer, but also quieter, since the sounds that are coming from the street are also isolated

Disadvantages of wet (plaster) facade

Pay attention to the shortcomings of wet facades:

  • Installation only in warm weather. The most important minus is to conduct this species Works are possible only in warm weather. Otherwise for high-quality mount Let us need scaffolding, closed with film, or special thermal guns that will help the substance quickly grab the surface of the walls.
  • Installation only in the morning or evening. The same applies to the process of drying isolation. Installation work is better to spend in the evening or morning when ultraviolet rays shine on so much. Slowing can lead to a shower of plaster, and excessive humidity simply will not allow the walls to dry well enough.
  • The need to protect against dust.Just a plastered surface should be protected from dust and other garbage, because all this will noticeably worsen general form The facade, which sticks to her various grains, branches and foliage.

Different kinds finishing work Wet facade

  • Organic View It is performed using such material as Poly Penopolmine. The special reinforcing layer mounted on the wall is made of organic products that do not pose a danger to human health. The finishing layer fixes the overall design, and it is a silicone or such organic plaster
  • Mineral type The wet facade is erected using special mineral plates that remarkably hold heat, and also well oppose excessive moisture. The reinforcing layer made of mineral mass, at the end strengthens the mineral and silicone plaster
  • Combined type Combines the 2nd types of wet facade in themselves. Works are performed using polyneolster and mineral plates, which are also reinforced by special silicone plaster or organic

Features of the wet (plaster) facade

Note the main features of the presented type of home insulation:

  • Easy to repair and update applied materials allows you to cope with work on your own without buying a professional tool
  • Plaster has a very wide range of decorative solutions, so that the warming itself can be used as a design, without resorting to questions of the subsequent sheat
  • Despite the fact that the applied materials are not too thick, they are still capable of providing additional sound insulation
  • The external use of thermal insulation affects significant savings of the internal space.
  • Relatively low cost will help to save on the work

Installation technology

Installation is made in several ways, and the most common fasteners on the dowel. It is suitable for thin layers of plaster, and for layers of more than 30 mm are used so-called mobile hinges, which allow isolation to move, and also significantly facilitate the load on the facade.

The third type of installation is the combination of adhesive mixtures and dowels, when the insulation is glued to the wall, after which is additionally fixed by dowels. If the walls are very smooth, then the dowels can be excluded, since the glue provides a very reliable adhesion of insulating materials with the surface.

There are several main advice on proper installation insulating materials:

  • Installation should be made in a checker order, because it will deteriorate to avoid cracks on finish coating
  • Dowels are installed only after complete drying of glue, so that under mechanical exposure not enough dried areas did not dug

What is the insulated layer of the wet facade?

Adhesive mixes

Whole blends, due to which the insulation is connected to the wall, consists of a polymer base and special mineral additives. Most often builders use products that are perfectly opposed by frost, do not let moisture and steam. A feature of adhesive mixtures is that they are not only responsible for the fastener of the insulator with the wall, but also align the latter.

Plates from mineral wool or polystyrene foam

Plates made of mineral wool or polystyrene foam are the main materials that are used during work. They are distinguished by increased wear resistance, which significantly extols them above the glass gamble. Basalt plates are especially in demand.

Reinforcing mesh with plaster

Completes the overall design of the reinforcing mesh with plaster applied on the surface. Decorative coating It is responsible for the final processing of insulation, which helps designers to embody any creative solutions, turning the buildings into the real works of art.

Thus, the technology of the wet facade is very comfortable and reliable, since it is capable not only to warm the house, but also give it a completely new appearance. If correctly follow general Instructions Work, then you will be able to achieve maximum quality, which will allow the coating to stop for many years without the repair or service requirement. In any case, such work can always be entrusted with professionals that will be able to warm the building in a short time, as well as recreate any creative idea that can turn the house into something beautiful and cozy.

The insulation of the walls is currently the usual business in the field of construction, since each person wants to organize in his house full comfort, as well as save residential space from the cold and excess moisture from the street.

As you know, about 40 percent of all heat takes about the walls, therefore special components and materials that can resist this factor are used for their isolation. Such a definition, as the "wet facade" has long been heard among our compatriots, and the presented version of the insulation of the walls is not in vain received such an unusual name. The fact is that the insulating material is dissolved with water, which provides a more convenient application of the insulator to the walls.

Benefits of wet (plaster) facade

  • Suitable for premises even small areas One of the most important advantages is that such an insulation system does not require additional space in the house
  • No need for additional strengthening The ease of the type of insulation will not require additional measures to strengthen the overall design. The wet facade does not need any modification of the walls, since the weight of 1 square meters. M plastered surface is completely insignificant, and practically nothing is deformed under the influence of the atmosphere
  • Durability The materials used in the works are so strong that there may be about 30 years without the requirement of additional service. Optionally, the color of the material can be updated or change to a new one, which will have a positive effect on the appearance of the construction
  • Additional effect of noise insulation The technology of external thermal insulation has long been considered the most economical and reliable in terms of conservation of the heat of the rooms. Moreover, in houses and offices, it becomes not only warmer, but also quieter, since the sounds that are coming from the street are also isolated

Disadvantages of wet (plaster) facade

Pay attention to the shortcomings of wet facades:

  • Installation only in warm weather The most important minus is that it is possible to conduct this type of work only in warm weather. Otherwise, for high-quality installation, scaffolding, closed with film, or special thermal guns, which will help the substance quickly grab the surface of the walls
  • Installation only in the morning or evening The same applies to the process of drying isolation. Installation work is better to spend in the evening or morning when ultraviolet rays shine on so much. Drying can lead to shower plaster, and excessive humidity simply will not allow the walls to dry enough
  • Need to protect against dust Only the plastered surface should be protected from dust and other garbage, since all this will noticeably worsen the general view of the facade, which glues various grains, branches and folias

Order the installation of plaster facades at the "Facade Installation"

Contact your facade installation service. With us your building will have a long year.

You can insulate the walls of your home both from the inside and outside. But the wedding owner will always give preference to systems with the outer arrangement of the insulation. Vault of the SP Rules 23-101-2004 "Design of thermal protection" It says: "It is not recommended to apply thermal insulation from the inside." In addition, in favor of such a decision, you can also be called at least three arguments:

The "Wet Facade" method implies the following stages of work:

  1. Preparatory process.
  2. Warming of walls with mineral wool or expanded polystyrene from the outside of the structure.
  3. Application to the surface of the insulation layer of adhesive mixture, followed by styling onto it reinforcing, alkalic fiberglass mesh.
  4. Watching the surface.
  5. Finish layer of finishing material.

Externally, "wet facade" in the photo looks like this:

Warming facade on the "Wet Facade" technology

About the technology of laying this method of insulation you will learn a little later, and in this section I would like to mention his advantages and disadvantages.

The effective method of "wet facade" has established itself as one of the cheapest inexpensive facades in the "top 3 inexpensive facades", this can be found in the article, therefore it is used everywhere. But for the listed benefits of you only pleased, it is necessary to perform technology, choose high-quality material and observe the necessary conditions When performing work.

Types of facades and their scope

"Wet facade" is a plastering finish, which is used for the insulation of administrative-household buildings, residential houses, office, trading and industrial buildings. This type of facade is suitable for both low-rise and high-rise construction.

The outer walls of the structure can be insulated in two ways. One of them is called "Dry facade", And the other - "Wet facade."When the device of the first type of cladding disappears the need to use various solutions and compositions having liquid consistencies. To such a type of finishing facades include all types of ventilated facades, learn about which it is possible in the article ". Due to the existing space, the insulation is ventilated, the material is not moistened.

As for the second method, the "wet facade", or wet facade plaster, has nothing to do with moisture. The name implies that the heat insulator will be mounted on the wall, and then the surface with special solutions is plastered.

During operation, plastering and adhesive compositions are used, which are diluted with water, so the method is called "wet facade".

Classification of facade systems having outer thin plaster layers GOST R 53786-2010 "Facade heat insulating composite systems with outdoor plaster layers. Terms and Definitions",presented in Table:

Technology of the device "Wet facade"

All technological phases are performed at a temperature of at least + 5 ° C and not higher than + 25 ° C according to Snip 3.04.01-87 "Insulating and finishing coatings".The quality of work carried out and the service life depends on the accuracy of the conditions.

Violating temperature mode And using materials that are not intended for the "Wet Facade" system, you risk getting a cracked coating or a creaked plaster.

Do not forget about your safety, because work will be made on top. Most likely, you use forests, according to Snip 12-03-2001 "Safety in construction" Part 1their installation is performed on tiers, and the height of each tier should be at least 2 m. The step, depending on the height, can be a multiple of 0.5; 1 and 2 m. From the outer plane of the forest walls are set at a distance of 300-400 mm.

Preparatory work

Starting work is necessary with examination of the surface and visual determination of its strength and bearing capacity. If there are influx on the wall from the solution - we remove the excess with the help of the hammer or the other undergraduate tool, and the cracks with a solution.

According to standards Snip 3.04.01-87 "Insulating and finishing coatings" The base should be durable, rough, pure and having open pores. More than 10 mm drops should be eliminated.

Suppose the wall has a small portion of 200 x 200 mm, concave on a couple of centimeters, and if you close it with insulation, the emptiness is formed in this place. A random blow to the finished facade in this place will prolomit the insulation. Laying the plate on the discovering places is also fraught with an internal defect material.

If, by spending the palm on the surface, you saw a "chalk track" or from the wall something like small sand rolls - clean the wall more thoroughly. Sometimes you have to fully stucked the base.

The treated surface can be cleaned from dirt and uploaded by a special composition called "Primer", this intermediate layer will improve physico-technical indicators of the base. We do it with a roller or a wide painting brush.

The primer for foam should be used only for foam, and not for mineral wool slabs.

If the surface strongly absorbs the composition, then we apply a soil 2 times. This operation will increase the adhesion of the base and reduce the delaying of water from the adhesive mixture.

Installation of insulation

Using the "wet plaster" method, it is necessary to understand that most of the load will have to lay the insulation layer. We offer a drawing on which the design of this technology is clearly visible using decorative plaster as the finish layer.

"Wet facade"

Therefore, the choice and installation of the insulation material to the wall surface is a responsible torque in the "Wet Facade" device.

The selection of the material used in the work depends on the following indicators:

The technology of manufacturing works on the "wet facade" device allows the use of a synthetic polymer group of insulation, mineral thermal insulation materials and their combination. Materials must match Gostam: 10140-2003. "Plates of heat-insulating from mineral wool on a bitumen binder. Technical conditions", 16136-2003" Plates are pelitochitume heat-insulating. Specifications ", 22950-95" Plates mineral wool increased rigidity on a synthetic binder. Technical conditions. "

The thickness of the heat insulator is chosen depending on the existing standards of heat engineering of buildings and structures that are registered in Snip 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings." It says that for the insulation of facades for residential premises, polystyrene foam, having a thickness of 10-250 mm or a mineral wool plate 25-180 mm, should be used.

Having taken to work extruded polystyrene foam, which has a smooth surface, should be made by Her Shhawa. To do this, you can buy the factory shutter for aerated concrete, as in the photo, or make homemade plans made of metal profiles, penetrated with nails.

To work, purchase the tools necessary to perform the construction process:

  • building level;
  • a hammer;
  • perforator with nozzles under a dowel (most often D8);
  • electric drill;
  • cutter for profiles;
  • spatula: 80-100 mm and 350 mm;
  • capacity for the dilution of adhesive composition;
  • construction mixer;
  • toothed culma, the size of a tooth is 8-10 mm, stainless steel;
  • smooth edge of a smooth edge;
  • grater with sandpaper or with a grid;
  • long wooden seaterary;
  • wide brush, roller for primer surface;
  • construction knife for cutting the grid;
  • polyurethane grater 300-400 mm for the formation of the structure.

Approximate consumption of materials is indicated in the table:

The fastening of the insulation begins on the base of the building to its roof, within one vertical capture, and is performed in the following chronology:

  1. Fastening the base profile of the insulation layer from mechanical damage is protected using a base profile, which is installed above the base at 400-600 mm using a level. He also keeps the lower (first) range of the insulator, and the profiled dripper takes the rain drops. The base profiles are suitable for different thickness of thermal insulation material, they correspond to GOST 22233-2001 "Profiles pressed from aluminum alloys for translucent enclosing structures. Technical conditions »and the stove in them should accurately enter - without gaps. In the wall we drill holes for the dowels, at least 3 pcs per 1 m profile. We lean your profile to the wall, insert plastic dowels into the holes and drive into the wall with the help of a hammer. Sometimes the lining washers from polyethylene for lining between the profile and the wall are used.

    The location of the base profile in the established form should be on one line, in the locations of the connection are not provided for adhesive or deformation of the part.

    When the profile continues along the adjacent base, it is cut off at an angle of 45 °. In houses with cellars and technical underground, polystyrene foam slabs must overlap the slab ends are no less than 200 mm from the lower marker overlapping the first floor and the basement.

  2. The coating with a glue solution of the insulation of the insulation that the polystyrene foam is suitable for you to work better, you can learn in the article "", and for its installation, we use a glue solution on a cement basis, but only for external work. The cellery solution is prepared manually using a construction electromyxer. How to do it, written on the package. Fill the tank with water in the amount of 5-5.5 liters per 25 kg of the mixture and slowly pour out a dry solution from the bag, thoroughly stir the content on low revs. There should be a homogeneous mass, it is left for 10 minutes, and then again stirring. The box should be mixed up to a homogeneous mass without lumps and remember that it only saves its properties for 4 hours.

    We apply an adhesive mass on the plate with strips of 30-40 mm wide at a distance of about 30 mm from the edge, so during installation it is not extruded behind the edges of the material. In the central part of the slab we apply about 6-8 slides, a thickness of 30-40 mm. The amount of solution is selected in such a way that a large half of the insulation surface has a contact with the base through it. The band of glue along the contour should have breaks, they make them with a spatula, thus excluded the formation of air traffic jams.

  3. The gluing of the insulation to the base of the glue application immediately apply the slab to the wall, the long side of which lies horizontally, fixing it with a fist through the long wooden seach, or with the help of a color. In this case, control the vertical and horizontal position of the plate level. Glue, squeezed behind the contour of the insulation, immediately remove.

    You can not press the heat insulator to re-either shift it even in a few minutes. If it is incorrectly glued, carefully pull it out, remove the solution, only then re-apply the mass on the stove and press it to the surface.

    The plates lay along the horizontal scheme, upward, while maintaining the checkline of the seams, and at the corners of the "Vanoslest". At the corners we use the "gear" engagement.

    First, the stove is stacked with the corresponding protrusion on one wall, and then another is applied to it. The band that remains is cut off.

    Sews vertical and horizontal should not be more than 2 mm. If it came out that they are much more, you can not completely fill them with a solution. In the gap, you need to introduce a narrow strip of the insulation and pressed into the seam, no longer using the glue composition. When the gap is small and it is impossible to insert thermal insulation material, experts recommend to expand it and insert the insulation with force, but without applying the adhesive solution, but using the mounting foam.

    To lay the glue on the insulation, it is better to use a toothed grater, such a method ensures the cleanliness of the joint and provides a uniform fitting of the insulation to the glued surface with the ability to level the sheet along the plane.

    Warring slopes outside, we use a heater with a thickness of at least 30 mm. The polystyrene foam plate is cutting with a width of 5 mm less than the width of the slope, or before gluing it from the insulation, we cut the wedge (8-10 mm) and fill the gap between the insulator and the silicone mastic frame.

    When insulating slopes, the plates must be per capita for 10 mm, so it is very convenient to poison the main facade insulation.

    In the corners of the slabs are mounted with the dressing of the seams. It should also be paid to the adjoining of the thermal insulator to the underpants the undercover, because this place is particularly demanding protection from mechanical impact and ingress under moisture plates. For this land heat insulating material Strengthen another layer of reinforcing grid, as for window and door openingsThe insulation of the layer on top is protected by a cornice bar.

  4. Alignment of the surface of the insulation and the irregularities of the glued insulation, you need to cut the rubber with sandpaper. It is done only after rejection of glue, after 2 days after the stoves are glued. The grater should make circular movements with a slightly pressing.

  5. Fastening the insulation to the wall of dowelismism of 2 days, when the glue was already grabbed, proceed to fasten the insulation to the base mechanically - special dowels with wide hats. We choose a plot and perforator drilling holes in it by a row of Ø 10 mm depth 15-20 mm longer than the length of the dowel. Otherwise, the garbage creaked in the hole will not allow to drive the tip. The length of the fungus is calculated according to the following scheme: the thickness of the heat-insulating material is + 10 mm (the thickness of other layers) + 40-50 mm into the wall. Suppose if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the length of the dowel will be 110 mm, i.e. 50 + 10 + 50. The length of the hole will be 130 mm: 110 + 20, it means the length of the boraxy is a little more than 130 mm. The holes on the sheets: in the joints and in the center. A total of 5 fungi will go to the sheet. You can more if necessary. Regardless of the location of the dowels on the plates within the same plane of the section of the sheets are nailed from 50-100 mm from their edge. Now in a dowel, drive spacer tips, if they are difficult to score to the end - pull out a dowel, deepen the hole and score a tip again.

    It is worth remembering that a dowel with a thermal head should be purchased for work. Otherwise, on the facade with time, rusty stains can perform. Metal dowel rod itself, its spacer area is in brick masonry Or concrete, therefore, the metal rod is a cold bridge and can be rusted over time, and the thermal head will protect the facade from such a problem.

A properly reinforced dowel is considered when its head is in one plane with thermal insulation material.

If you need to put two layers of the heat insulator, then the first layers do the same as described above, and the second glue to the first, but in such a way that the joints overlap. After the surface grouting, you can clog the dowel, only correctly select the length of the product so that it is enough for the thickness of the insulation and the base.

In the case when the thickness of the insulation in two layers is larger than the existing fastener length, it is recommended for fastening to use mounting glue for expanded polystyrene. If you use an ordinary mounting foam, you can not achieve smooth surfacebecause The expansion of foam is much larger than the expansion of the mounting glue for expanded polystyrene.

Plastering on insulation

Before plastering expanded polystyrene foam, or another insulation, it is necessary to perform a number of operations that can be divided into 3 stages:

  • Reinforcement of the surface
  • Plastering
  • Finish finish

Reinforcement of the surface

The "wet facade" technology after mounting the insulation obliges the next stage to reinforce the surface. This function is performed by a fiberglass mesh, appreated by a polymer composition to protect the material from alkaline corrosion. According to GOST P 537862010 "Systems of facade heat-insulating composite with outdoor plaster layers"reinforcement occurs by its "consuming" in the base composition during its application.

The fiberglass grid is a material of industrial production, in which the threads are fastened in perpendicular directions and form cells. All products must match GOST R 55225-2012 "Fiberglass grids Facade reinforcing alkali-resistant. Technical conditions. "

A fiberglass mesh is suitable for operation with a density of 160 to 220 g / m 2. The specified minimum is registered in the technical regulations of the well-known manufacturers of facade insulation systems: Knauf in the "System of external thermal insulation of a KNAUF Warm Wall", Ceresit WM thermal insulation systems. Buying a low density material, the developer reduces the reliability and strength of its facade against the tensile forces in the plastering layer.

Also, the grid will serve as a reliable basis for the next layer of plaster. If you bleach the material that does not meet the requirements, then alkaline solution solvents the grid for several years.

Such material reliably protect the facade from cracks arising under the influence of the temperature difference.

On the grid there must be a mark "for external, facade works". According to GOST R 55225-2012 "Fiberglass grids Facade reinforcing alkali-resistant. Technical conditions »Marking the product should be on each roll. By type, depending on the destination, the front fasteners are:

  • private - P;
  • reinforced - y;
  • architectural - A.

The marking of the mesh for the facade (FS) includes: the abbreviated designation of the product, its type, nominal mass and width, the discontinuous stretching force based on and duck, the designation of the normative standard.

An example is this marking: FSER-160 (110) -2000/2000 GOST R, where

    • FS - facade mesh;
    • P - ordinary;
    • 160 - weight in grams;
    • 110 - Length in cm
  • 2000/2000 - discontinuous efforts based on and duck equal to 2000 N;
  • GOST R - Standard.

To secure the mesh, a layer of the adhesive-plaster mixture is necessary, in which a fiberglass mesh is lying, which serves as a base for high-quality plaster. It must correspond GOST P 54359-2011 "The compositions of adhesive, basic plaster, equalizing, putty on a cement binder for facade heat-insulating composite systems with outdoor plastering layers". To perform this stage, it is better to embark on 72 hours from the moment the heat insulator is glued to the wall. Remember that it is necessary to do this not in rainy weather and air temperature is not lower than + 5 ° C and not higher + 25 ° C. Do not leave the thermal insulation material without covering more than 2 weeks. If it still succeeded, then before performing the reinforcement, check the quality of the material: the yellowed plates, with a dusty surface, clean the grater or branch. We start working with complex sites - these are corners and slopes.

Reinforcement of corners

To work, we need a corner of plastic, as it is chemically inert, and cement mortarwhich we use has an alkaline environment. In addition, polymers are practically not corrosion and easily cut.

Profile marking: UP C-10 x 15 x 2500 is decrypted as follows:

  • UP - corner profile;
  • C - mesh;
  • 10 - width, in mm;
  • 15 - Length, in mm;
  • 2500 - Length, in mm.

Work start from the corner of the building. It means that they need them, both internal and external, put in order - install ready-made perforated plastic corners with a grid, are available on sale, we talked about them above. The figure shows the scheme of their location.

Do not forget that it is necessary to set the angles professionally, and the insulation is laid in terms of the level using the "Rules" and thread. Corners pressed to the insulation and, using the level, exhibit them horizontally and vertically. The glue protruding through perforation, which was applied to the surface in advance, smoothed, with its help the corner is aligned and fixed.

The process itself occurs as follows: we apply a spatula (200 mm) solution at an angle (50-70 mm on each side of the angle, with a layer thickness of 2-3 mm). Apply a plastic corner to the angle of the structure, add it to the surface and the spatula on the grid smoothed from the corner to the side, slightly down. It turns out an angle, on each side of which 50-70 mm is glued, and another 50-70 mm grid for pure insulation.

If there was a situation that you need to connect together two angle, we connect them vertically, just do not forget that the joint should be topped with the reinforcing grid, at least 100 millimeters.

Reinforcement of door and window openings

With the help of the level again check the slopes and if necessary, hang them with a grater. Install the pricing profiles with the grid. In the diagram you can see the ready-made design of the window opening.

At the slopes, we apply a layer of solution, the profile grid is stretched, he charged into it and smoothes. We do so around the perimeter of the opening. Next, on the corners of the opening, we mount the corner and the bottomhole profile with the glass wall. A slightly more solution is applied to the corners, so that air cavities are not created under profiles, and the excess solution will be released through perforation. Do not forget to correct the profile to control the level.

It turns out that one mesh comes to another, they are inserted into the solution and on all 4 angle of opening at an angle of 45 0 we apply "Kosynka" - a piece of the grid. Externally, it will look like this:

Location "Kosinki"

At the corners of the openings, voltage and "Kosinki" are created prevent the appearance of cracks in these places. This section of the work is also performed as the previous ones: the solution is applied to the surface, the grid is applied, it is inserted with a spatula. Only "Kosynka" must be treated with force, remove all excess adhesive mixtures so that there are no thickens on the surface.

When the slopes are processed, the internal corners need to glipulate the strips of foxes, which in width will be equal to the width of the slope, and in length will be 300-400 mm.

Fastening the reinforcing grid to insulation

We begin to move from above from the left corner of the site, then down the diagonal movements in the direction from the center on the sides. From the bottom of the extension of the grid length at the level of the base profile.

Apply glue you need a spatula, not less than 350 mm. The smaller tool is applied to the mixture on a large, stretching it along the entire length of the tool, and apply a solution on the insulation. Well done "Ceresit" well. The layer must be 2-3 mm. Work should be produced small sites: 90 cm in width and in a height of about one meter. If a mesh is 1 m in a roll, then we capture 90 cm and 10 cm remains clean without a mixture, for the joint.

In height, we proceed only meter: with solar weather, the solution dries quickly, and you need to have time to apply it, put the grid, add a solution and stroke the surface with a spatula.

Mesh apply so that the width of 100 mm lay onto a clean section of the insulation. The spatula is smoothing the site from the center to the edges, down to the mesh "Vliple" evenly into the mixture. Ideally, when it is completely in a mixture, but almost visible her outlines.

The grid is sold in a roll, it is necessary to make a mesh strip from top to bottom, without cutting, and shoghes only the vertical seams. Starting from above to make a height of 1.5-2 meters, go down and finish work.

The principle for docking seams is the same both by the vertical direction and horizontal. We leave 100 mm mesh without a solution, it simply lies on the thermal insulation material. We embroider the next site (with a clean band capture), we apply a grid with an overlap 100 mm and spread the plot with a spatula. Thus, we get smoother and smooth on top of the seams.

The grid must be tightened well, position in the middle of the adhesive layer, it should go to the surface and its drawing should not be viewed.

In case the grid did not stretch and turned out bubbles or folds, it will have to cut it and with an adhesive 100 mm, along the edges of the cut, stick a new grid.

Remember that you cannot glue the grid by laying it on the insulation, which is not treated with adhesive composition. With a thin reinforcing layer in places, cracks will be shown on the plaster. Also, the deformation of the surface may be related to the fact that the reinforcing grid was laid without adhesion or unevenly recessed in solution.

After drying the adhesive composition, the surface must be primed up with a plastering layer (2-3 mm). It is chemically separated by a plaster layer from reinforced, reduce the absorption, and increase the adhesion of the finishing material. Be sure to make sure that the ships of the dowels are hidden, and the reinforced layer grabbed with his head.

Finish finish

"Wet facade" against outdoor decoration At home gives a wide choice. Traditionally, this is: texture plaster, "Coroed", under the "fur coat" and painting.

But after the surface of the reinforced layer of the facade is dry, it must be seized. For this, a plastic grater with a sandpaper nozzle is suitable. Movements must be circular, counterclockwise, with a small effort. Capture the plot is not big, the distance of the elongated arm so that it is convenient to work with it. Then, on the surface, we carry out the operation of dusting and priming.

Materials for the finishing layer "Wet facade"

The decorative coating should not reduce the vapor permeability and hydrophobicity of the protective layer, which means that we choose materials that correspond to such indicators as:

  • high vapor permeability;
  • resistance to water and unfavorable natural factors;
  • strength.

It is not enough to prepare the plaster mix for the facade, since the use of a publicly available sand and cement-based solution is not enough. Special components and additives are needed here. There is a facade plaster on the foam, its counterparts, mineral wool. More details about the materials can be found in the article "We find out what kinds of facades and for which houses are used: stone, wooden, plastered, translucent, composite."

It is worth remembering that mixtures of different manufacturers are better not to combine. Famous manufacturers offer their sets of materials, where it is imperative: adhesive and plaster solutions, primer composition, facade paint, fasteners. Each composition is selected in such a way that the best combination of the properties of strength and durability is ensured.

Only special compositions are applied to work for outdoor work. More about them can be found in the article "Facades", here we will tell about plastering mixtures for certain types of insulation.

Plastering foam outside can be:

  • mineral mixtures;
  • acrylic compositions;
  • silicone solutions;
  • silicate plaster.

The solution for finishing the foam, polystyrene or foaming should be specialized, intended for working with synthetic insulation. And remember that prices in different manufacturers differ significantly, but choose high-quality material, since the strength and durability of the coating depends on this.

The thermal insulators of Penoplex are considered to be the most effective of all existing ones. Thus, according to the results of 2011 (the company's data), the share of their products in this segment in the domestic market amounted to 52%. And in May of the past, 2015, in Novomoskovsk the launch of the first domestic and fourth production line in the world with a capacity of 550,000 m 3 of thermal insulation per year.

However, the material is exposed to external factors: sun, frost, wind, shock loads. Under their influence, the thermal insulator loses its properties and is destroyed. The win-win option for protection is the plaster of the facade of polyplex or other insulation:

  1. Mineral plaster which consists of cement and polymers. It is endowed with a low coefficient of water absorption, resistant to fungi and mold, it is easily applied, effective when the facades are insulated.
  2. Acrylic compositionwhich is elastic, has good water repellent characteristics, is not afraid of the effects of UV radiation. If you live in a place with an elevated level of humidity and do not know than plastering the penplex outside, boldly use this composition.
  3. Silicate mix It is quite effective, elastic, anti-static, vapor permeable, resistant to the effects of climatic precipitation.
  4. Silicate plasterwhich has high records of vapor permeability, elasticity, resistant to aggressive chemical compounds, microorganisms, ultraviolet. But the value of it is much the above described, it is harder and in color palette Pastel tones prevail.

A plastered surface can be made smooth and embossed. Choosing a plaster mix, be sure to see which texture it is intended.

In resistance to mechanical loads, experts consider effective acrylic plaster, then the silicate, mineral is followed. For service life affects surface texture: smooth is more sensitive to external influence.

It is also worth noting that mineral wool is used for the facade insulation. This material has such qualities as:

  • good resistance to fire;
  • high vapor permeability, water-repellent parameters;
  • environmental well-being;
  • long service life.

Such thermal insulation will last long and securely protect the walls of your home. Modern products are processed in the process of manufacturing with water-repellent compositions. Previously, the disadvantage of mineral wool was considered the release of formaldegd resins from it during its production, but modern technologies helped get rid of this shortage.
In 2009, the International Cancer Study Agency (Mair) on the basis of the confirmations of the NTP organization (National Toxicology Program) in the United States assigned the 3rd group on the Mair classification (IARC / CIRC). This includes materials that do not belong to the category of carcinogens for a person, like tea, coffee. And in 2010, the World Health Organization Mineral Wat is recognized completely harmless.

The heat insulator is attached to the wall with a glue composition and then, for reliability, a dowel with wide hats are clogged. Next, the reinforcement process takes place, the plaster on the Minvat - as well as by polystyrene foam, and the painting of the facade.

Facade shocking technology

The choice of the desired composition is an important point When insulating outdoor walls at home. But the quality of the coating depends not only on the material, but also from the plastering of the insulation. Make it need correctly, observing a certain sequence.

Performing plastering, remember that one wall should be worked out at once, otherwise traces of the connection will remain on the surface.

The stucco on the insulation is applied to the surface not earlier than 3-7 days after the construction of the lining plaster. Requires requirements Snip 3.04.01-87 "Insulating and finishing coatings": The temperature is not lower than + 5 ° C, not higher than + 25 ° C. Strong wind is not allowed, atmospheric precipitation.

To apply plaster layer, you will need:

  • mixer for construction work or a perforator with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
  • capacity;
  • large and small spatulas;
  • halfury or grater.

If you know how to plaster mineral WatBut you do not know how to stucify the penplex, then understand that the difference in processing insulation at this stage does not exist. First of all, using a mixer with a mixer in the container, a detailed instruction is written on the package. The plaster solution is applied to a small spatula on a large and distribute the composition evenly vertically along the wall, pulling it out.

Surplus collect the grater, which is kept under a slight tilt and easily pressed against the wall. Excess plaster mix with the bulk of the tank.

Grouting the next section of plaster starting the connection site with the previous one. The solution should not be dried at the scene.

When the layer of plaster slits slightly, a smooth grater moistened in water, we drag the surface to level defects, and then we give the wall to the desired texture using a grater from an artificial material.

Painting facade

When the walls are dried, they can be painted. About what kind of paint to choose to work and how to calculate the required amount, you can learn from the article "Paint for Facudes". To work, you will need a cuvette, spray gun or roller on a telescopic handle, brushes, a round brush from natural bristles, greasy tape, polyethylene film.

Any paint will make the color of the facade homogeneous, it will protect it from the effects of moisture and pollution. All plaster mixes except acrylic, we recommend painting.

Be sure to protect the base and its upper edge. If you paint with a roller or brush, then quite enough painting tape, and if you use the paintopult to work, it is better to close it with tight paper. Close the windows, fits, metal parts of the building with polyethylene film.

Lime paint is considered extremely beneficial for plastered surfaces, as it is diluted with water, but it is not durable.

Using it for work, follow the requirements GOST 12.3.035-84 SSBT "Construction. Work painting. Safety requirements", Do not forget about your safety - take advantage of rubberized gloves and protective glasses. Spray paint on the skin is easily flushed with water, only need to be done in a timely manner.

The final layer of paint is applied to a separate wall in one pass without interruptions so that the connection locations are not visible on the surface.

It is much faster and more convenient to operate with the paint sprayer. You need to start from any angle, move up-down movements. But be sure to use personal protective equipment: glasses, gloves and clothing.
Paint brushes are needed for surface procession in hard-to-reach places.
Working with roller will not cause special difficulties. The area of \u200b\u200bthe plot to be processed at a time should not exceed 1 m 2. In the cuvette we roll the roller, it is soaked in paint, and we will drive 3-4 bands on the walls. After that, they roll the roller until the paint is uniformly distributed over the surface.

Among the most common errors can be called the following:

  • Performance of work with adverse climatic conditions, in this case the wet facade forms cracks or surface swelling.
  • Poor-quality surface preparation.
  • Poor-quality and loose docking of the heat-insulating material.
  • Incorrect position of the reinforcing grid, a small backstage.
  • Laying the grid directly on the thermal insulation layer.
  • Error selection of material and its inconsistency.
  • Failure to comply with the rules for fastening the insulation in a checker order.

Warming even cottageAll the same will have to use forests or subordinates. If you work one, so as not to drag them from place to place, better work Conduct on areas: height on the growth of the stacker, and in width - to focus on the dimensions of the lobes.

Deciding to insulate your home various materials, you can combine them.

The protruding part is lined with a "wet facade" shot. In this case, you should not use mineral wool, since when installing it will be saved.

Difficulties in the paper will deliver a polystyrene drop, but the result with this material will be great.

The installation of "wet facade" should be carried out in the spring-summer period, then it will not be necessary to build a heat outline, which will not entail additional cash investments. In case of violation of the installation technology, the greenhouse effect is likely, and this destructively affects the plaster layer.

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Before you consider the question of the merits, you should deal with the terminology. The fact is that in many articles are the incorrect definitions of the wet facade, which is why inexperienced developers arises confusion. The amateurs are called a wet facade such insulation, which uses water-based adhesive. Once this material is "wet", then the facade, respectively, also "wet". For persuasiveness, they talk about the dew point (it, they say, in this case it is carried out beyond the walls) and the information acquires a "scientific" view. What really?

According to the currently existing construction regulations, all buildings must meet the requirements for heat saving. It is impossible to achieve this without using insulation. For example, even wooden walls In the middle lane, our country should have a thickness of at least 60 cm, only such parameters guarantee the necessary thermal conductivity.

If the walls are made of brick, then their thickness increases to 120 cm and more. Of course, no one has such houses, and efficient insulation is used to improve heat surfactants, most often mineral wool or foam.

Warming can be done both internal and external surfaces of the facade walls. Let us dwell on the outer surfaces, they are insulated in two ways.


As for the dew point, it is in all cases without exception, it is believed beyond the premises. The only exception is the walls of the house are so thin that the rooms are cooled to the dew point. Such cases are in old panel shrushchev.

We specifically took your time to clarify the terminology, only knowing this can be correctly understood the process of insulation of facades on various technologies.

Technically, such facades should be called a heat-insulating composite system of insulation of facade walls with outdoor plaster layers. As insulation, foam plates or extruded mineral wool plates are used, the thickness is chosen taking into account the climatic zone and the initial characteristics on the thermal conductivity of the facade walls. But in most cases you need at least ten centimeters. Extruded mineral wool use very rarely and only special species. The reason is insufficient indicators of physical strength, partial shrinkage during operation. What layers is the wet facade?

  1. The base is the facade wall. It may be brick, wooden, foam blocks, monolithic concrete or OSP sheets. The requirement - the surface must be smooth. Otherwise, the air will circulate between the surface of the wall and foam plates, due to this phenomenon the effectiveness of insulation decreases at times.
  2. Heat insulation layer. Foam polystyrene facade brands (non-combustible). Fixed with glue and plate dowels.
  3. Flusket. It is desirable to acquire grids resistant to alkalis.
  4. Ordinary under painting or decorative plaster. It is allowed to make the finish finish to make light facing facade plates.

Before proceeding with the description of the installation technology of a wet facade, we want to stay in more detail on the requirements for the facade plaster. The quality in this case is directly proportional to the number of years during which in the original form will be saved:

  • facade integrity;
  • his novelty.

So, it is best to stop the choice on elastic front plasters. Silicone compounds are ideal, for example, the plaster of the new generation "Coroed". Consider the main advantages of this facade coating.

Elasticity.Due to the presence of a flexible and elastic in the composition of silicone, "cored". Such properties of the coating prevent the formation of microscopic cracks on the dried plaster. This is an important quality, because any building after the end of construction work is subject to:

  • vibrations affecting the structure in the process of shrinkage;
  • expansion and narrowing materials from which the building is manufactured when changing temperatures.

All listed circumstances lead to the formation of small and frequent cracks on the usual plaster. The elastic silicone composition will be able to protect your facade from this trouble.

The texture of silicone plaster "Coroed", grain 2 mm

Moisture resistance.Another unique feature of the "Coroed" plaster from the Farbe plant is one hundred percent resistance to humidity and full vapor permeability. For this, you can again thank the unusual composition of the mixture. The finished plaster fits tightly to each irregularity of the wall covered, and creates protection, through which the water leaked is guaranteed.

Long color saving.As part of the plaster from Farbe, there are silicone resins that give the following effects:

  • the surface does not fade - protection against ultraviolet rays is ensured;
  • it warns the effect of any other phenomena affecting the loss of brightness of the facade.

If, as a result of the mechanical exposure, the plaster was somewhere scratched or lost, you will not even notice. All the mass of plaster is shocked in color and neither scratching or scratching are visible on it.

Self-cleaning.Thanks to the technology of "clean facade", the facing plaster "Coroed" is independently cleaned. This is due to the following factors:

  • when distributing and frozen, the elastic composition forms a smooth, solid film;
  • if there is even a small rain, the dust messengers on the facade is easily flushed off from it without help.

In other words, if you lazy to independently follow the appearance of the dwelling, and I would like "it yourself", the "Coroed" plaster from the factory "Farbe" is your option.

Record service life.The service life of the "Coroed" is on average five times higher than the indicators for similar goods presented today on the market. If using conventional plasterYou update the facade coating once every 5 years, with the "Coroned" it needs to be done once a quarter of a century.

Tinting.According to the manufacturer's statements, the Silicone Plaster "Coroed" that interests you is as much as 2,500 different shades. Such a variety is due to the use of computer tinting and pigments from leading global manufacturers.

Options for shades of silicone plaster "Cooked" Farbe

Little consumption.Dry plaster implies the consumption of material with a cladding equal to about 5 kilograms per 1 m². However, the product of the Farbe plant due to the quality and high density of the composition offers on the same unit of the area to use no more than 3 kilograms, which the cavity is enough to form an ideal coating.

The production of the silicone plaster for facades is certified according to the international standard. By purchasing silicone plaster, you provide reliable protection to the walls of your own home.

Prices for foam

Styrofoam

Video - How to Apply Silicone Plaster "Coroed"

Prices for various types of decorative plaster Coroede

Plaster Decorative Coroed

Wet Facade Mounting Technology

Calculate the number of building materials with a margin of about 10%, prepare the tools. As a heater, we recommend using foam plates, it is the cheapest and very effective option. The lack of foam - the complete impenetability of moisture, but this will have to put up. Especially since brick or concrete surfaces And so almost do not breathe.

For the finishing of the facades, forests will need, it is better to use metallic. If not - do yourself from sawnwood. Pay attention to the safety technique, set them on stable surfaces. Check the position in the level if the building has more than two floors, then you need to tie the vertical racks to the facade walls with special metal hooks.

Important. During the installation of forests, assign the gap between them and the wall, the size of the gap should provide convenient work with the hand during plastering or painting of the insulating layer. Otherwise, the forest will have to be dismantled and re-installed, and this is an extra loss of time and money.

Step 1. Check the surfaces of the front walls, the irregularities of more than 1 cm should be cut down, everyone else can be fired due to glue. Do not be afraid that the cost of work will increase. If you calculate the time for additional plaster walls, the price of materials, the use of glue as an aligning solution will be much more profitable.

Step 2. Special rope with blue sweep the lower horizontal line, make it in a strict horizontal position. If you are afraid that the first row of foam plates will go down, then the line should be fixed a flat wooden or metal rail. Bold it with dowels or nails, it all depends on the material of the manufacture of the facade wall.

Practical advice. Tarbed dowels must fit the base, they have differences for wooden, foam blocks and brick walls, have this in mind during the purchase of materials. Dowels can be screwed into a tree or drive into a prepared hole. The length of the dowel should be equal to the thickness of the sheet of foam and glue plus about 60 mm on fixation in the wall.

Step 3. Porous surfaces should be primed, use the primer of deep penetration. Apply the solution abundantly for maximum impregnation of porous bases. For smooth cement or brick facade walls, make a spray from cement milk. Such operations will increase the adhesion coefficient of glue with surfaces.

Step 4. Measure the deviation from the horizontal corners of the house and check the wall plane. You can do it with a plumb and rope.

  1. In the corners of the house, install the plumbs throughout the height of the wall. At the top and bottom of the rope tie to a specially installed metal bar, tensioning it well.
  2. Fasten the horizontal cord to the stretched ropes, do not tighten the nodes.
  3. Gradually stretch the horizontal cord along the vertical ropes and measure the distance between it and the wall.

This data will be allowed to assess the status of the wall. If deviations exceed a centimeter, they will have to be elapsed.

Step 5. Prepare according to the manufacturer's instructions adhesive mixture. Quantity depends on your performance. During the preparation of a mixture into the tank of water, and then pour dry ingredients.

Practical advice. If the walls of the facade are covered old paint, then do not rush to remove it, it is long and difficult. First, check the clutch strength with the base. To do this, ride in the paint a grid of a groove of about 1 × 1 cm in size, stick to the surface of the greasy tape and tear it off. If the paint remained on the wall - excellent, the insulation of the facade can be done on it. If not, you will have to remove from the surface of the walls.

Step 6. The glue must be applied to the surface of the foam. If the wall is smooth (irregularities do not exceed 5 mm) - use the ridge. But this happens extremely rarely. In most cases, the solution will have to be shifted by a trowel or a beacon spatula. One sheet should be up to eight lighthouses up to two centimeters around the perimeter and in the center, the diameter is about 10 cm. Due to this height, foam plates are easy to align. At the edges of the slab glue should be applied at an angle to prevent it in the seam.

Important. After one or two rows, eliminate the possibility of natural air convection between the insulation and the facade wall, otherwise the natural thrust will appear and the insulation will be ineffective. Not just bad, namely ineffective, have it in mind. To eliminate traction, the solution on these stoves must be solid one line, the slot between the plates is completely absent.

Step 7. Immediately after spreading, apply the slab to the surface. Cress and align the foam with a long wooden half-line or rail, control the level.

Important. Inexperienced builders can deviate vertically, it is difficult for them to control the position of the level. We recommend to make a template from ropes. Tension them at the desired distance from the wall and lock. Ropes will need to be installed at a distance of about 2-3 meters. Such simple devices Allows to constantly monitor the position of all foam sheets in the height of the facade wall.

The difference in the height of the planes of two adjacent plates can not exceed two millimeters. If deviations were found, then after cooling the adhesions, the protrusions need to be carefully cut into a very sharp knife and make the transition invisible. If there are wide joints between the butt plates - anything terrible, they will then be played mounting foam. The second and subsequent ranks are recommended to start from inner corners And move to the outer, the internal customized is harder.

Step 8. To increase fire stability of buildings between each floor, fire jumpers must be made. This requirement of new legislation is aimed at improving the safety and fireproof buildings. Fire litters are made from extruded mineral wool of the same thickness as foam plates. The width of the dissection is at least twenty centimeters. Jumpers are installed throughout the perimeter of buildings and window and doorways.

Step 9. Finishing window and doorways. Remove the size of the slopes, cut the plates on them. Do not hurry, all the joints must be as smooth as possible. The insulation is better to use mineral wool, but the choice is yours. If the finish finish is relatively massive, then take the foam. The insulation must close the window frame and the door, due to this, heat losses are reduced and the appearance of the facade wall is improved.

Important. In the place where the window sump will be installed, the foam must be cut off at an angle to ensure the unobstructed stack of water. One more thing. Stove seams should not be a continuation of slopes. In these places you need to use whole plates and make the appropriate cutout cuts in them. This method eliminates the random injection of water in the gap between the facade wall and the foam. The minimum allowable distance from the seam to 15 cm slopes.

On the part of the plate adjacent to the window block, the glue is not applied. In the future, the gap is fought by construction foam.

Get all the cracks with the mounting foam, after its cooling gently cut the remnants. Foam foam empties on the entire thickness of the plates, it is recommended to moisten the surface before the faving.

Step 10. After the final solidification of glue, fixation strength increase special dowels with large heads. It is necessary to install them in places of adjusting the corners and in the center of each sheet. We have already mentioned that no technology recommends mounting the insulation slabs without a dowel, no most expensive glue gives such a reliability of fixation as a dowel. For each square meter, the slab must be at least four pieces.

This is completed on this process of insulation, you can proceed to further finish.

Watching insulation

A very important process, not only the appearance of the facade wall, but also the durability of the entire finish depends on the quality of its execution. To increase the strength of the adhesion and protect foam sheets from mechanical damage, it is necessary to use a plastic mesh, the cell size is about 5 mm. Before starting work, check the surface of the wall with a long rule or rack.

Initially, it is necessary to separate the corners. Metal perforated profiles are used to strengthen the corners. Cut the grid strips of about 30-40 cm. Apply glue at the corners of the buildings of the same width, climb the reinforcing grid into it, align it. In the corners, install a metal profile and again climb it into the solution. Conduct the surface. From above, the corners will close the new mesh during the finishing of the facade walls.

Step 1. Apply a layer of solution with a thickness of a solid with a wide spatula with a solid metal grater or a wide spatula along the plates, immediately align it. There is no need to try, the main thing is that it is well glued to the surface of the foam. The glass was easier to lay down from top to bottom, the backstage must be made at least ten centimeters.

Important. Never apply the grid to a dry wall, and then smear glue, you only make frank halchiers. The fact is that this method of finishing significantly reduces the strength of gluing materials, further on the plaster there will be cracked. Pay attention to the finished houses, many of them have this drawback - the consequences of the work of unfair masters.

Step 2. Thoroughly align the surface of the grid, the fibers must be completely covered with glue. Check the wall plane with a long rail and smoke all irregularities. To do this, carefully attach a flat rack to the wall and immediately take away. On the fingerprint of the track will be visible sections that need alignment.

The surface must be as smooth

Step 3. If the facade is planned to be painted, then the second layer of plaster should be applied, the thickness is in the range of 2-3 mm. The main condition is the maximum alignment of the walls. The technology is the same, do not be discouraged if traces remain after the spatula, then they can be carefully lined with an ordinary grater. If decorative plaster is chosen for the finishing finish, it is possible to apply it on the first layer. The same applies to gluing thin front plates.

If the base is insulated, then here you need to adhere to the recommended technologies to the maximum extent. The surface of the base should be placed, before gluing the plates, hesitate to soak the hydraulic displacement. The fact is that concrete absorbs a lot of moisture, it will fall on glue. And the foam excludes the possibility of evaporation, the water accumulates under it, during freezing it is expanding and the plates will fall off, they will only hold on the dowels. If the base is still pretty heavy finishing materials, then they deform their weight foam plates. At best, the surface will be uneven, at worst it will have to take the materials and repeat the insulation of the house first.

In the absence of experience of doing such work, it is difficult to find out whether the foam was secured reliably. We recommend to make a trial glue. Apply the solution around the perimeter and in the center, adjust the sheet to the facade wall and align its position. Immediately take the foam and look at the traces of glue on the wall. They should be uniform throughout the area, and the total area is at least 40% of the magnitude of the sheet. Such a simple test will provide an opportunity to further focus on the number and place of glue. In addition, you will feel with how the foam sheet should be pressed to the facade wall.

Installing a row always start with angle and with a whole plate. If the opposite corner does not fit the plate, then it should be trimmed in size and use the penultimate, and the latter should be a whole. In the extreme case, the spanning area of \u200b\u200bfoam should be doubled the area serving the corner of the house. Do not forget that the stove must be over the angle of the building on its thickness, in this place insulation from two walls should lie on the vents. Better make a protrusion with a margin, surplus will penetrate. A solution should not fall on the protruding part of the plate. The following rows of foam on the previous ones are installed in the gear gear. The more dense they will lay down, the more reliable the mount. In external corners, the largest load, and you cannot progress in the dowels, remember this and accurately perform all operations. The plates on the wall should be aimed, the coincidence on the wall of the vertical seams is prohibited.

Especially carefully check the position of the first row, it is he who sets the level for the whole wall. It is recommended to put the subsequent ranks only after complete rejection of glue on the first and fixation by his dowels.

Do not allow glue into the joints between the stoves. Why? Cement mixes Have high thermal conductivity and form cold bridges. They will become noticeable on the facade walls in the form of wet strips. There are cases when such disadvantages cannot be hidden even with decorative plaster. The bands are non-permanent, depending on climatic conditions appear or disappear.

The main task of the reinforcing grid is the protection of foam from mechanical damage. Experienced builders know that it is impossible to clean the foam from dried quality glue without damage to the surface. This means that the role of the grid in holding the plaster is minimal. If the mass falls off, then the repair is still not avoided, the plaster will be saved on the grid. Hence the conclusion - reinforcement must be made in those areas of the facade wall, which may be damaged from mechanical effort, as a rule, not higher than 1.5 m from the base. All that is higher - to your personal discretion.

Cut foam plates can be cut with small teeth. But this is not the most successful option. Much more smaller cut is obtained after cutting heated nichrome wire. It can be bought in specialized stores, the length of the wire depends on the diameter. Tension the wire in a convenient location and connect to the outlet. Uneven cutting faces after hacksaw can be submitted by a special grater.

Video - Device for cutting polystyrene

Extruded expanded polystyrene has a very low adhesion with adhesive compositions. Before use, be sure to clean it on both sides of the grater until the shallow groove appears.

Video - Preparation of expanded polystyrene

Do not use this material as the main heat insulation, it can only be used to finish the base. And then only in cases where the finishing finish of these surfaces is made heavy materials.

Video - Wet Facade Mounting Technology