There is no need to talk about the comfort of using underfloor heating, this type of heating is very popular in private homes, as it is efficient and has a high efficiency. Despite the fact that this type of work is not much more difficult than others related to the arrangement maximum convenience and the comfort of their own home, few know how to make a warm floor from heating with their own hands.
Consider the theoretical and practical issues related to self-calculation and arrangement of water floor heating in small spaces residential or office type.
Such responsible work as do-it-yourself installation of a warm floor should begin with the preparation of materials and planning. Strictly speaking, only specialists who have information about the level of heat leakage in a given room can make an accurate calculation. But for individual needs, approximate calculations are often used that satisfy the requirements.
First you need to draw a plan for the placement of pipes. The clearest and most obvious thing will be a diagram drawn on paper in a cage, on which a warm floor can be calculated based on the quadrature of the room. Each cell will correspond to a step - the distance between the pipes.
For the temperate zone:
A big mistake is made by those who plan to lay parquet or thick flooring on a warm floor. wood flooring. Wood does not conduct heat well and will prevent the room from heating up. The efficiency of such heating may even be lower than that of a radiator, and heating costs may be too high.
The ideal covering for a heat-insulated floor is a stone, ceramic or porcelain tile. Having warmed up, it will perfectly keep warm, and this the best way for kitchen or bathroom. In rooms where the floor is warm - children love to play very much, and it’s more pleasant to walk barefoot there than on wooden parquet.
A slightly worse flooring option, but more suitable for a guest room or bedroom, is linoleum and laminate. These materials transmit heat well and will not reduce the efficiency of water heating. In this case, the laminate should be chosen with a minimum thickness, and linoleum - without an insulating substrate.
When heated, many synthetic materials can release harmful fumes. Therefore, floor coverings with chemical components must necessarily have a manufacturer's mark on the possibility of their use in residential premises on a warm floor.
If we are talking about a house with concrete floors, then the most affordable common option is concrete screed with water heating. The same method is used for the first (basement) floors of private cottages, if the base of the floor is on a sand cushion, which is located directly on the ground.
In houses with wooden floors, this option is not applicable. wooden beams floors simply cannot withstand the enormous weight of the concrete screed, no matter how thin it may be. In this case, a lightweight version of the warm floor is used, which will be discussed in separate section.
Do-it-yourself installation of a warm floor begins with the preparation of the base. The basis for creating a warm floor should be flat, without protrusions and depressions. The maximum allowable difference is 5 mm. If the depth of surface defects reaches 1-2 cm, then it will be necessary to fill and level a thin layer of granite screenings (fine crushed stone) with a grain size of up to 5 mm. On top of the leveling layer, you will have to lay the film and, when laying the thermal insulation, walk along wooden shields. Otherwise, the leveling layer itself will become a source of irregularities.
The most common water floor laying patterns are snail and spiral. The snail evenly heats the entire floor area. But with a spiral scheme, you can provide a greater level of heating in the coldest zone of the room. To do this, the first pipe branches through which hot water is supplied are laid exactly there. According to the finished drawing, the exact length of the pipe is determined.
For underfloor heating, only a single piece of pipe is used! If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is very large, several heating circuits are planned. The length of the pipe of each circuit must not exceed 100 m. Otherwise, too much pressure will be required for the normal flow rate of the coolant. In terms of area, this corresponds to 15 sq.m.
A do-it-yourself water floor is best made from a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 16 mm. It easily bends with a fairly small radius, and it is much more convenient to work with it than with a XLPE pipe. It is undesirable to use a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. A large diameter will require an increase in the thickness of the concrete, and this has a bad effect on the efficiency of the heating system.
Usually pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. area is:
In order for the heat not to go down, a layer of dense foam is laid on the base. The density of the insulation is chosen at least 25, and preferably 35 kg / m3. Lighter expanded polystyrene will simply collapse under the weight of the concrete layer.
The optimal thickness of the insulation is 5 cm. When laying on the ground or if increased protection from the cold is required, when an unheated room is located below, the thickness of the thermal insulation can be increased to 10 cm. To reduce heat losses, it is recommended to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of metallized film over the insulation. It could be:
The metallized layer is quickly destroyed from the aggressive action of concrete, so the screen itself also needs protection. Such protection is polyethylene film, which is used for greenhouses and greenhouses. The film thickness should be 75-100 microns.
In addition, it provides the necessary moisture for the maturing concrete screed throughout the entire period of its solidification. Pieces of the film must be overlapped, and the junction must be hermetically glued with adhesive tape.
Fasteners for the pipe are installed on the thermal insulation. Its purpose is to fix adjacent pipe branches and place it on the floor in strict accordance with the preliminary plan. The fastener holds the pipe until the concrete screed acquires the desired degree of hardness. The use of fasteners facilitates the installation of the floor and ensures the correct placement of the pipe in the thickness of the concrete pad.
Fasteners can be special metal strips, welded metal mesh, plastic brackets that pin the pipe to the foam base.
In recent years, manufacturers of underfloor heating systems have begun to offer another very convenient solution. We are talking about special sheets of dense polystyrene foam with a profiled surface. Usually the surface of such sheets is the intersection of grooves or rows of protruding elements, between which heating pipes easily fit.
The surface of the sheets is smooth, extruded, all pores are closed and no additional waterproofing film is required for it. Having a special thermal cutter, grooves in polystyrene foam can be cut independently. But to carry out this work you need at least a minimum experience.
Metal-plastic pipe supplied in coils. When laying the coil, it rolls out along the trajectory of the pipe. It is impossible to pull the pipe from the lying bay, as this will cause it to twist and may lead to delamination of the inner layers.
The pipes may only be poured with concrete after they have been completely laid, connected to the manifolds and filled with water at a pressure of 4 bar. Before pouring, it is required to withstand the pipe under this pressure for a couple of days. If a leak is found, it is fixed immediately. If the heating system itself has not yet been installed, instead of water, air is pumped into the pipes using a compressor and the pressure is fixed with ball valves.
Immediately after pumping, the pressure may decrease slightly due to the straightening of the pipes. During the pouring and hardening of the concrete, the pressure is monitored by a connected pressure gauge.
To compensate for thermal expansion, we attach a damper tape along all walls. The temperature expansion of the concrete cushion is 0.5 mm per linear meter, with an increase in temperature by 40 degrees. If the heating is only 20 degrees, then the expansion will accordingly be half as much. We multiply the expansion by the length of the longest section of the concrete floor and compare the resulting value with the thickness of the damper tape.
For ordinary apartments, as a rule, it is enough to lay the tape only along the walls and at the door sill. In addition, the damper tape also plays the role of thermal insulation of the walls from the warm floor. This method eliminates cold bridges that cause unnecessary heat leakage.
Additionally, in some cases, expansion joints are made:
For extended warm floors, an expansion joint with a damper tape is arranged every 10 m. To prevent the movement of concrete pillows in these places from breaking the pipe, a rigid plastic corrugation (preferably) or a larger diameter pipe is put on it. The entry of the protective pipe into the concrete pads is at least 0.5 m on each side.
If the layout creates a congestion warm pipes in one place (for example, near the collector), then a heat insulator sleeve must be put on part of the pipes. This will help to avoid local overheating and retain heat for the desired areas of the floor.
If concrete for pouring is not brought in, but prepared on site, then the following components will be required:
This is the composition of heavy concrete. Its weight reaches 2.5 tons per 1 cubic meter. finished material.
Many people prefer to refuse sand in concrete for underfloor heating. This is due to its poor thermal conductivity. Therefore, in practice, cement-gravel mixtures are also used. Its composition:
Granite is an excellent conductor of heat, and such concrete has a much lower thermal resistance. It is also recommended to introduce a reinforcing fiber, which is a small plastic fiber, into the composition.
As part of any self-leveling floor must be a plasticizer. The specific amount depends on the specific brand and purpose of this drug. The plasticizer should not be any, namely for a warm floor!
If the pipe was attached to strips or brackets, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it. The height of the concrete screed is selected from 5 to 10 cm. In this case, it is necessary to provide at least 3 cm of concrete above the pipe. A smaller layer is fraught with cracking. A too thick concrete pad increases heat transfer losses.
With the right choice of concrete and normal temperature, it begins to set after 4 hours. To maintain normal humidity, it should be covered with a waterproof film, and when the surface dries, it should be watered. Already after 12 hours, the hardened concrete can withstand the weight of a person. But its full maturation occurs only after 28 days. All this time you need to take care of the humidity and maintain high pressure in installed pipes. Only after the expiration of the specified period can the first thermal test of this floor be carried out.
As during the first test, and subsequently, it is impossible to quickly heat up a water-heated floor to high temperature!
Ready concrete base You can glue tiles and other floor coverings. In this case, glue intended for warm floors is used. If the tile falls on the expansion joint, then one part of it must be glued, and the other part must be placed on silicone. The silicone adhesive dampens the thermal movements of the base, and the tile will not crack from overvoltage.
As mentioned earlier, for wooden floors a light warm floor is set up without a concrete cushion. In this case, the sequence of work may differ slightly depending on the condition of the old floor and the floor structure.
So that the heat does not go down, a heater is placed under the pipes. It can be placed between the overlap lags, and then it is better to use mineral wool, or it can be laid on an old durable subfloor - here you will already need polystyrene foam with a density of 25-35 kg / m3. To prevent condensation from forming, a vapor barrier membrane is laid under the mineral wool. The first draft floor is stuffed on top of the logs.
Just like for a concrete floor, it is advisable to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of foil or penofol on the insulation. All joints and seams must be sealed with adhesive tape.
Logs are laid directly on the polystyrene foam, to which the subfloor boards are nailed. Between the boards there should be gaps of about 2 cm for laying the pipe. Similar gaps must be provided at the ends of the boards of the subfloor. Otherwise, you will have to choose transverse grooves for the pipe, and this can lead to breakage of the boards.
In order for the heat to be evenly distributed over the floor, the pipe is laid not just in grooves, but in special metal gutters designed for this purpose. The metal transfers heat over its entire surface and evenly heats the finish top coat. Recommendations for its choice have already been given above - it can be a laminate with a permit to work with heating or a rigid polymer coating. thick parquet and parquet board for underfloor heating are the least suitable.
Compared to concrete underfloor heating, lightweight construction is done much faster and costs significantly less. Another advantage is the possibility of repairing water pipes in case of an accident. Problems with tubes in concrete floor eliminated only by its complete replacement.
The main disadvantage of a wooden warm floor is a much lower thermal power.
Nourish underfloor heating apartment buildings possible only with the permission of the heat supplier. All recommendations remain valid, although, on our own, we advise installing a heat-resistant water filter at the pipe inlet.
Properly arranged heat in own house- this is another step towards comfortable and convenient living conditions for the whole family. But, even if you are not able to perform these works and are forced to invite masters, the knowledge gained will allow you to take an active part in this process.
Agree that it is insanely nice to wake up in the morning and get up barefoot on a warm floor. Especially when it was snowing outside the window at that time. You go to make yourself a cup of aromatic coffee, sit in front of the window and look at the snow-white landscapes. Want also? Then read the article below and find out how to make a warm floor in your private home.
If you already have a floor heating system, skip this section and go to the next one. The rest of the information written here will come in handy. There are two main types of underfloor heating:
Both have their own set of advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, it is worth dwelling separately on each of them.
From the name you can guess that the floor is heated with water. Indeed, pipes are laid under the floor covering through which hot water circulates. It is worth noting that for private houses, this system is a more popular electrical counterpart. However, let's see why.
So, the advantages of a water floor over an electric counterpart and a conventional radiator are:
An impressive list, isn't it? However, like everything that surrounds us, a water heated floor has its drawbacks, which should be known in person.
After that, you can draw any conclusions. However, the final choice should be made after the description of the electric floors.
Unlike the system described above, there are 3 types of electric underfloor heating:
Now consider the main advantages of such floors:
Now the disadvantages, or rather the disadvantage. Yes, it is only one, but for some it is very significant. It consists in increased energy consumption. For 1 sq.m. consumes approximately 110-150 watts. However, with the help of temperature controllers, this figure can be reduced to 70-100 watts.
Perhaps, from the real minuses - that's all. Of course, it can be noted that many talk about harmful radiation from heating mats. However, in reality, this is not supported by anything.
So, all the pros and cons of each system are disclosed. Now you can make a choice, go to the store and read the following sections.
Have you chosen a water floor? Wonderful. However, it is worth remembering that for its installation it will be necessary to make a concrete screed. Can it be done in wooden house? Absolutely not. However, there is a way out and it will be described a little later.
Installation in a brick and concrete house
First, let's look at the classic installation option. So, before laying pipes, an additional series of measures should be carried out.
Installation in a wooden house
Basically, there are few differences. The main thing is that instead of a screed, special modular systems are used on which pipes are attached. And on top there is a thin protective layer and the floor covering is laid out.
Installation of this system is carried out after the final leveling of the base of the floor and its thorough cleaning of dust and debris. Further, everything is quite similar to the previous version. The base is covered with a layer of heat and waterproofing. Styrofoam 5-10 cm thick with the addition of a heat-reflecting foil layer is perfect as thermal insulation.
After that, the heating elements are installed. For each type, the installation features are somewhat different, you can see them on the instructions attached to the product. Do not forget that it is desirable to install the system only in those places in the room where there will be no furniture.
Then laid out reinforced screed, followed by tile adhesive. Finally, the floor covering is installed. Do not forget that you need to carry out a thermostat from the cable to the wall. Cable underfloor heating is poured cement screed and left for 30 days. Only a month later, you can start operating the system. However, you need to start with low temperatures, gradually raising it. If the film method of floor heating was chosen, we do without a screed. The final floor covering is installed directly on the heating elements.
There are several ways to heat the floor and the house as a whole. Which one to choose is up to you. Based on the stated pros and cons of each of them, you will surely make right choice. And based on the instructions for the product and this article, the floor will be laid correctly and will last for many years.
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O One of the floor heating options are water heated floors. In such devices, heated water is used as a coolant, which circulates through the pipeline. It is heated with . In design, production repair work, as well as replacing heating appliances you need to know the wiring diagrams for underfloor heating in a private house. More details in the material below.
Scheme of water floors
The components of the underfloor heating mechanism are the heating elements inside the floor. When choosing wiring diagrams for underfloor heating in a private house, it should be borne in mind that such a design has a layered structure.
It is worth highlighting the following elements in the equipment device:
Helpful information! The thickness of the entire structure should be within 7-15 cm.
The heating floor device is an excellent solution for rooms larger than 20 square meters. meters. In small rooms it is difficult to carry out mains with water, so it is recommended to make electrical structures in them.
Traditionally, wiring diagrams for underfloor heating in a private house are designed in screeds. This is necessary due to the increased load from which it is required to protect the pipeline system. In addition, the pipes must be in contact with the screed, which functions as a heated surface.
Water lines are mounted using a special mesh, polystyrene foam fixing sheets or grooved plates. The prepared base is covered with a waterproofing film. When mounting on a heat-insulating layer, place reinforcing mesh over which the pipeline is mounted. Before proceeding with the installation of pipes, it is necessary to calculate the equipment in order to ensure the required heat transfer, taking into account losses. The pipeline to the frame is mounted using clamps. A reinforced screed is also installed on top of the highways.
Helpful information! In apartments with many residents, it is forbidden to install a similar design from central heating. When installing a separate heat source, a special permit is required.
Related article:
Compliance with the installation rules affects the distribution of heat in the surrounding space. In such a design, hot water moves through pipes, heats adjacent surfaces and cools down at the same time. Therefore, all wiring diagrams for underfloor heating in a private house start from the walls and move along the selected system to the exit or to the central part.
There are the following schemes for arranging the floor:
Snail scheme
Scheme "Snake"
Related article:
After carrying out calculations to select the optimal step between the turns, as well as determining the power of the boiler and acquiring a collector and thermostat, the selected wiring diagrams for underfloor heating in a private house are connected:
Liquid starts inside the system and the boiler turns on. If everything is done correctly, then the floors will become warm in half an hour.
Helpful information! A type wiring diagrams water heated floors in a private house depends on the method of heating and the geometric shapes of the room. The main heating is done with coils and double loops, and additional heating is done with single loops.
If the structure is connected to the boiler, then you will need to calculate its power. Its value should be higher than the power of underfloor heating by 18-20%. A safety group is necessarily mounted on the circuit, which may also imply the presence of an expansion tank.
The main line coming from the boiler is connected to the collector device. It is mounted in a prepared cabinet. The main line leaving the collector is mounted on the required area according to the selected scheme, and the return pipeline is connected to the return manifold. If different branches are mounted, then the manifold is equipped with a certain number of inlets.
If forced circulation of the liquid is performed, then pumping and mixer units for pumping water are mounted in the area from the boiler to the collector. The temperature in the system is regulated by automated mechanisms and sensors.
Important information! It is mandatory to install shut-off and control valves between the mains and collectors. This is done to be able to turn off the tap in case of repair.
Wiring diagrams for underfloor heating in a private house are often supplemented with a heat exchanger. This is a device that replaces the coolant in the construction of floors and the heating system.
An important function of the equipment is the transfer of energy from the coolant located in the centralized riser to the water, which moves through the pipeline to heat the floors. A similar exchange is also carried out from gas to water. Thanks to the heat exchanger mechanism, heating does not depend on the central heating system. Installing the device has many advantages. In this case, there is no decrease in the pressure level of water flows and temperature. That does not cause inconvenience to neighbors in the house.
After installation floor circuits and before mounting the screed, the design is checked for correct work and all sorts of leaks. In this case, the verification is performed by different methods.
The system is tested using special equipment and an air mixture is injected into it. In the process, the pressure rises to 4 bar. This method helps to identify even the slightest leakage.
Also, the check is performed by filling the system with liquid under a certain pressure. At the same time, in half an hour its value should not decrease by more than 0.6 MPa. After a couple of hours, it should not decrease by more than 0.02 MPa at a constant temperature of the internal liquid.
When connecting the system to the boiler equipment, a variety of manifolds are used. The system starts pump equipment and automatic mechanisms for controlling various parameters.
Installation schemes for water-heated floors in a private house are developed in accordance with the estimated energy consumption and its losses through the building envelope. It should be borne in mind that the total load depends on the methods of insulation, wall material and thickness, as well as on ceilings and on the number of door and window openings. It is recommended to install circulation pumps in each circuit for balancing floor heating. Also, when designing door and window openings, it is necessary to take into account the height of the flooring structure.
A well-functioning heating system is the key to comfortable living in a house without regard to weather. Along with the traditional radiator technology, heating circuit devices actively use a warm water floor system. Its installation is laborious and financially costly, but this heating option pays off in 5 years.
In order to somehow save money, many equip a warm water floor in a private house on their own. Agree, the idea of getting efficient heating with minimal capital investment is very attractive, isn't it? However, its implementation requires certain knowledge and skills from the performer.
We offer for consideration detailed material on the arrangement of water heated floors. The article outlines the design rules, provides advice on choosing system components, and also describes the step-by-step progress of work on laying, connecting and starting the water circuit.
It is recommended to include the device of an additional heating circuit in the project even before the start of construction - it is easier to make calculations this way.
In a ready-made new house or building where the radiator system has been operating for a long time, installation of a water floor is also possible, but under certain conditions.
The advantages of water heating have long been appreciated by residents of Europe and Russia: it effectively heats rooms, saves expensive energy, creates the most comfortable environment in bedrooms, bathrooms and children's rooms
If the desire to insulate the floor arose after the construction of the house, it should be established whether the building is suitable for this. One of the main conditions is pre-made thermal insulation of the house, since heat losses above 100 W / m² will make floor installation useless.
Pay attention to the height of the ceilings: the installation "pie" with pipes takes about 15 cm, or even more, from the total height of the room. After the implementation of the system, the dimensions must be maintained doorways, height from 210 cm and more.
Such schemes are recognized as the least energy-consuming, the most efficient and inexpensive to operate. Options with solid fuel boilers are also allowed.
The flawless operation of the system is possible only under two conditions: professionally performed design calculations and competently carried out installation.
Therefore, the first steps towards installing a water-heated floor in a country house or in a private house are the analysis of the structure, the choice of materials, and the preparation of a project.
The design of the construction of a water floor is complex and simple at the same time. It is multicomponent in composition, so the main thing is to follow the order of laying all layers.
The main purpose of the insulation is to separate the screed with pipes from the base so that the heat is transferred upwards, and does not go into the ground in vain. A heat-insulating layer is required; without it, the installation of a warm floor loses its meaning.
Unlike electric floor heating on a liquid heat carrier, it requires more complex calculations for integration into the heating system. The service life and efficiency of the system directly depend on the correct choice of materials, fittings, installation and heating scheme.
Contrary to popular belief, the choice of pipes for installing a heat exchanger in the floor is not so wide. In total, there are two options: cross-linked polyethylene and copper. The most obvious advantages of special materials are durability, resistance to deformation, and a low coefficient of linear expansion. But the main advantage is the oxygen barrier, which ultimately stops the formation of sediment on the inner surface of the pipes.
The meaning of the use of copper in the high thermal conductivity of the tubes and resistance to corrosion. An obvious disadvantage is the complexity of installation and the high risk of failure in the presence of solid particles (sand) in the coolant. Although soldering requires only an inexpensive gas lamp and flux, bending the coil correctly is a difficult task. This is despite the fact that there can be several tens of turns of a copper tube, and one mistake that caused a break leads to the marriage of the entire segment or the need for additional soldering.
Polymeric (polyethylene) tubes have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion, in addition, they lose their strength properties when heated above operating temperatures, however, in warm floors, in principle, the coolant does not heat up above 40 ° C. Ease of installation is a definite plus. Easily bends and fits in a spiral or serpentine. The pipe is supplied in coils of 200 m, allowing you to lay underfloor heating without a single joint in the entire volume of the future screed. Most of branded polyethylene tubes involves the use of a special tool for crimping and welding.
Water heating systems with underfloor heating do not work on the gravitational principle and always remain volatile. Because of this, overheating occurs: failures in the circulation and recirculation system can even supply 70-80ºС, so the funds from savings on the use of polymer tubes should be at least partially spent on improving automation and auxiliary mechanisms.
The flow rate of the coolant in the tubes is strictly regulated by the manufacturer, assigning this task to the general circulation of the system means increasing the risk of malfunctions. A forced circulation device must be installed in front of the collector node, then each of the circuits is adjusted to adjust the required flow rate. It defines maximum length loops of each circuit and the temperature difference at its beginning and end.
For pumping water in the system use circulation pumpsdesigned for radiator heating systems. The diameter of the nozzles is determined by the required throughput of the pipe with which the pump is connected to the manifold. The lift height (or injection pressure) is determined by the total hydrodynamic resistance of the pipes, declared by their manufacturer for different loop configurations and bending radii. Each connection requires an increase in lift height. Speed adjustment for underfloor heating pumps is not required, however, with accelerated circulation, more intensive pumping of the system is possible to quickly reach the regime.
When using more than one branch for floor heating, the presence of a collector assembly (comb) is strictly necessary. Self-soldering the collector, even for two loops, will not give the desired result, it is almost impossible to balance the lines in the absence of uniform distribution and valve regulators.
The collector is selected both by the number of branches and by the total throughput. In essence, this is a multi-channel flow controller. Of the body materials, stainless steel and high-quality brass are most preferred. For underfloor heating, two types of collectors can be used. With a difference in the length of the contours of less than 20-30 meters, ordinary brass ones with ball valves are suitable. With a greater spread of hydrodynamic resistances, a specialized manifold with flow regulators on each outlet is needed.
Please note that it is not necessary to buy a dual (supply + return) manifold. You can install a high-quality mixer with flow meters on the supply line, and on the return line - a cheaper one with valve (not ball) valves. Separately, it is worth paying attention to what type of pipes the collector assembly is designed for. Most cheap products involve the connection of MP pipes, which are poorly suited for underfloor heating and therefore are used less and less. For polyethylene circuits, it is better to invest in reliable and proven REHAU manifolds, for systems on copper tubes - Valtec and APE. Accession copper tubes to the manifold is recommended through a flare and / or a threaded fitting; soldering directly is not recommended due to the low maintainability of such connections.
The comb of taps itself is not the whole collector. As an assembly, the mixing unit is completed with special fittings that provide adjustment of the water temperature before it enters the system. Both hot water and cold water can be mixed, which fundamentally determines the specifics of the two types of mixing.
A simple scheme for switching on a warm floor. 1 - three-way valve; 2 - circulation pump; 3 - ball valve with thermometer; 4 - distribution manifold with flow meters; 5 - return manifold with control valves; 6 - contour of the warm floor. The temperature control in the circuit is carried out manually and is highly dependent on the temperature of the coolant at the inlet.
The first type uses a closed circulation cycle, mixing hot water with a three-way valve as needed. The disadvantage of the system is that in the event of a malfunction in the automation or the use of solid fuel boilers, a large amount can be supplied at a time hot water, negatively affecting polymers, as well as flooring and the microclimate in the room. Therefore, pumping hot water is practiced mainly in systems with copper pipes.
Ready-made mixing unit for underfloor heating. Temperature control and the degree of mixing of the coolant is carried out fully automatically
For polyethylene circuits, more expensive collectors are preferred, mixing cold water from the return to reduce the incoming temperature. The complexity of such mixing units is due to the presence of an additional recirculation pump. Adjustment can be made both by an adjustable two-way valve, and by an electronic thermostat that controls the speed of the pump motor. The latter is an example of a struggle for accuracy and a decrease in the inertia of the system, by the way, very successful. However, such systems are volatile.
Whether to take the collector assembly is a moot point. Of course, the presence of a guarantee is an obvious plus, but it is not always possible to find a model with the necessary strapping and the number of taps, in such cases you will have to assemble the device yourself.
The pie of a water-heated floor is as follows: polymer foam insulation, heating tubes and a heat-storing screed in order from bottom to top. The thickness and materials used for the base layers must be selected according to the operating parameters of the system.
The insulation is selected taking into account the planned heating temperature, or more precisely, the temperature difference between the warm and subfloor. Mostly use EPS or PPU boards with butt edges. This material is practically incompressible under a distributed load, while the resistance to heat transfer is one of the highest. Approximate thickness polymer insulation- 35 mm for a temperature difference of 30 ºС and then 3 mm for every 5 ºС.
Ways to install underfloor heating in a private house. Three options for fastening and distributing pipes are proposed: A - Use of special mounting mats for underfloor heating. B - Installation on a reinforcing mesh with a step of 10 cm using plastic ties. C - Laying pipes in prepared gutters in insulation using reflective screens. The design of the warm floor: 1 - concrete base of the subfloor; 2 - insulation; 3 - damper tape; 4 - concrete screed; 5 - flooring; 6 - reinforcing mesh.
In addition to protecting the pipes from damage, the screed regulates the inertia of the heating system and smoothes out the temperature difference between the floor areas directly above the pipes and between them. If the boiler operates in a cyclic mode, the heated concrete will give off heat, even if there is temporarily no hot water supply. In case of accidental overheating, a heat-intensive screed will ensure the removal of temperature, excluding damage to pipes. The average screed thickness is 1/10-1/15 of the distance between adjacent tubes. By increasing the thickness, you can get rid of the thermal zebra effect with a rare laying of pipes. Naturally, the consumption of materials, as well as the inertia and time for the system to reach the regime, will increase in this case.
When installing underfloor heating on the ground, it is necessary to pour 15-20 cm of an incompressible layer of ASG. Crushed stone for additional thermal insulation can be replaced with expanded clay. By insulated frame floors the warm floor can be laid immediately on top of the waterproofing agent, which covers the subfloor in order to prevent the release of cement milk from the screed. In the best case, a thermal cut-off layer of 20-25 mm of polyurethane foam or XPS is arranged under the tubes. Even such a thin layer is enough to eliminate the cold bridges presented load-bearing structure floor, as well as distribute the load from the screed.
Installation of a water-heated floor should take place according to a pre-planned scheme. The collector requires a place equipped for installation, it can be either a boiler room or a compartment hidden in the wall. The rationale for installing intermediate collectors depends on whether savings are achieved compared to laying pipes from a central distribution unit, and also whether such an increase in the length of the largest loop is acceptable. It is recommended to connect pipes to heating zones in rooms that do not require targeted floor heating: pantries, corridors and others like them.
Underfloor heating pipes should only be fixed to a special mounting system. A perforated tape or mesh provides precise adjustment of the installation step, reliable fixation during the curing of the mixture and the gaps necessary for the temperature solution.
The mounting system is fixed to the floor through the insulation without significant pressure. You need to fix it in the holes formed after bending the petals to compress the tubes. Thus, the attachment points are located closest to the heating elements, which prevents them from floating, shifting or lifting the entire system when pouring the concrete mixture.
