House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» Drywall openings. Plasterboard doorway: do it yourself doors, profile installation and photo how to sheathe, video and frame

Drywall openings. Plasterboard doorway: do it yourself doors, profile installation and photo how to sheathe, video and frame

Drywall is a durable and affordable material that absolutely everyone can learn to work with, even without building experience. Today, plasterboard is used to make decorative elements, all kinds of shelves and niches. With its help, walls are aligned, multilevel floors and ceilings are created. Therefore, it is not surprising that drywall began to be used for the construction of interior partitions. How to independently make a partition from gypsum plasterboard with a doorway - read below.

Manufacturing interior partition with a doorway may be needed in case of uneven walls in the room. In addition, a plasterboard frame with an opening allows you to make two small rooms from one large room quite budget and efficiently. With the help of a plasterboard structure, you can easily change the dimensions (for example, make it narrower) and the location of the doorway in panel house, make a round or asymmetrical arch instead of the standard passage.

Before carrying out construction work, without fail, a drawing of the future structure should be made, taking into account GOST and SNiP.

This will allow you to correctly calculate the volume of material and outline the front of the upcoming work. When drawing up a drawing plan, one should take into account standard sizes drywall sheets and metal profiles. So, standard gypsum boards are made in the size of 250x120 cm, and the standard metal profile has a length of 300-400 cm.

If you plan to make any changes to the load-bearing walls, you need to contact the appropriate authorities (BTI, MES, SES, architecture department, housing inspection, operating organizations), and obtain permission for redevelopment.

If this is your first time working with drywall, then you should study the types and purposes of metal profiles. The durability of the structure depends on them.

Do-it-yourself drywall doorway

In order to assemble a frame with an opening based on an interior wall and sheathe it with plasterboard, you will need: metal profiles (guide and rack-mount partition walls), sheathing material, basalt mineral wool, scissors or a circular saw for metal, a puncher and a screwdriver, a jigsaw, an edge planer , dowels 8 mm, self-tapping screws for metal in the size of 25-35 mm and self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Making a frame with a doorway includes the following steps:

  • Withdrawal interior door and dismantling the door frame;
  • Expansion of the opening (if necessary);
  • Wall markings;
  • Installation of the lower and upper guide profiles using dowels 6x40 with a distance of 40 cm;
  • Installation of wall profiles along the entire length of the wall with a distance of 60 cm;
  • Installation of vertical rack profiles;
  • Installation of a horizontal lintel of the opening;
  • Installation of vertical guides opposite the wall profiles;
  • Filling the frame with insulation (for example, mineral wool);
  • Sheathing of the frame with plasterboard; To increase the strength of the structure, you can sheathe the frame in several layers, in a checkerboard pattern;
  • Putting putty on the joints of the sheets and the places where the gypsum board is attached to the frame;
  • Grouting putty, priming sheets for further finishing.

Subject to the design rules and regulations, a plasterboard doorway will last for many years. A properly assembled structure will be able to withstand a fairly large load: it will be possible to finish the opening even with decorative artificial stone, brick.

We assemble a drywall door frame correctly: builders' advice

In addition to observing the technology for installing the doorway, you should take into account some of the nuances that will help extend the service life of the structure.

So that the structure comes out strong and even, experienced drywall workers advise:

  1. Use wooden blocks to reinforce the uprights. The bars, in this case, are laid directly in the profile.
  2. Mount the support posts using the nozzle method, in which the shelves of one of the profiles are brought into the second. The ends of the double profiles can be attached to the guides using self-tapping screws or cutters.
  3. Arrange drywall sheets so that their joint falls on the profile.
  4. Mount the sheets so that the self-tapping screws go into the material by 1-2 mm, and into the rack - not less than 1 cm. In this case, the fasteners should enter at a right angle.
  5. Always install a minimum of four rack profiles. Moreover, their height should correspond to the height of the future door.
  6. Minus half a cm when cutting a profile in order to be influenced by high temperatures he didn’t hit the walls.
  7. Reinforce outer corners structures with a special profile in order to reduce their fragility.
  8. Increase the thickness of the partition in proportion to the increase in its length: the load-bearing capacity of the plasterboard structure depends on the size of the section.

To bend a sheet of drywall for an arch, you should walk over it with a needle roller and slightly moisten it with water. After the fox becomes pliable, you can fix it in the desired position. The main thing is to make sure that the leaf does not soften, otherwise it will crumble and crumble in the future.

How to align a doorway in a panel house

It may be necessary to align the doorway if it is moved or expanded. In addition, doorways are often located in the area of ​​the junction of two panels, and can be skewed due to a mismatch between the two lengths of the vertical sides. The choice of the method of finishing the opening is influenced by the degree of its curvature, the repair budget.

You can level the doorway without the involvement of professional builders, you can do it yourself using plaster.

Today, openings can be finished with both wet and dry plaster. In the first option, the opening is finished with gypsum, cement and polymer mixtures. In the second - sheets of the Civil Code.

The easiest way will be to apply a moisture-resistant polymer mixture, which is distinguished by high performance.

Drywall can be mounted either without profiles or with a frame. The first case should be chosen if the relief differences in the opening are insignificant. In addition, methods can be combined to achieve the best decorative effect.

Do-it-yourself drywall doorway (video)

The scope of application of drywall is extremely wide. One of the options for using the material is the creation of artificial interior partitions and design doorways... It is quite simple to make and align the doorway using the gypsum board yourself. To do this, you just need to make the markup correctly, perform the work in the desired sequence, observe building rules, and take into account the recommendations of experienced builders. And then you will have a solid and beautiful design!

During redevelopment, they try to equip the living space to the maximum by transferring the interior partitions. After the destruction of the old structure, it is easier to make a new partition from drywall sheets. Be sure to arrange a passage between the rooms. Making a drywall doorway consists of two stages: assembly of the frame and its sheathing.

In construction, drywall (gypsum plasterboard) is considered a versatile material. From the gypsum board, you can build new structures or use sheets for cladding instead of plaster. It is impossible to build a load-bearing wall made of plasterboard, but the material is excellent for interior partitions. Lightweight walls are used for zoning a room, making false walls for sliding doors. Arrangement of a doorway in a plasterboard partition can be done with imagination by making an arch of a classic, asymmetric or other shape.

GKL walls have a lot advantages:

  • creates a minimum load on the supporting elements of the building due to its light weight;
  • one person can build a partition;
  • affordable cost of materials;
  • if necessary, the partition is easy to dismantle.

In offices, plasterboard walls can be installed temporarily to create a separate office or for other purposes. Designers use the structure when arranging decorative aisles of unusual configurations.

Required materials and tools

To equip a drywall opening in the interior partition, you will need the following tools:

  • a roughing plane for processing the plasterboard cut;
  • edge planer for chamfering at an angle;
  • a sharp knife or a special hacksaw for cutting drywall;
  • scissors for metal;
  • drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • screwdrivers, level, pencil, tape measure.

From materials prepare for work:

  • galvanized steel profiles;
  • if it is envisaged to hang the sash in order to strengthen doorway needed wooden bar corresponding to the section profile;
  • the assembly of the frame and fixing of the sheathing is carried out with self-tapping screws;
  • if it is required to increase sound insulation or insulate a wall, use basalt wool slabs.

The main material in the manufacture of a partition with a doorway is drywall.

  1. Wall gypsum plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used as standard.
  2. Curved arch elements are made from sheets with a thickness of 6.5 mm.
  3. For the passage to the bathroom or the kitchen, it is better to take a moisture-resistant drywall. It can be easily distinguished by its blue or green color.
  4. There is a refractory gypsum board. Such material is rarely used in apartments. An exception may be the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the partition from household appliances.

How to make a drywall doorway?

Before making a doorway from drywall, they think over the dimensions and shape of the structure with their own hands. It is determined in advance whether the sash will be hung.

We change the dimensions of the opening

When installing a custom door, it is not necessary to destroy the partition. Simply resizing the doorway is enough. To reduce the height or width, a frame is constructed from a rack-mount and starting profile. At the construction stage, do not forget about the sash. The galvanized profile will not withstand heavy door leaf... If it is decided to hang the doors, then a wooden bar is laid inside the rack profile.

When it is planned to move the passage to one side, part of the wall is first cut out. It is better to use a grinder, since the blows of a perforator can disrupt the integrity of the entire partition. After preparing the contour of the opening from below and from above, the starting profile is fixed, vertical elements are placed along the edges, as well as additional racks from the side of the wall. The starting and rack profile are connected with self-tapping screws. The frame is stiffened with additional cross members.

When it is required to reduce the height of the passage, only wall profiles are installed. They will support the headrails.

After making the frame, the gypsum board is cut out. All fragments are connected so that the joints are located in the middle of the profile. Fix the cladding with self-tapping screws.

Straight frame construction

To make a drywall wall with a doorway from scratch, a project is preliminarily drawn up. Calculate the dimensions of the structure, the location of the passage, the shape. The easiest way is to build a rectangular classic opening... When calculating the dimensions, it is important to take into account that after finishing, the thickness of the partition will increase.

To erect a wall and a drywall opening begin with a marking. The location of the starting profile is marked on the ceiling. From it, an accurate projection is made onto the floor with a plumb line, where the lower starting element is installed. Outline the location of the rack profile. They put vertical elements every 40 cm. Be sure to fix the extreme racks to the adjacent load-bearing walls. Additionally, racks are installed that form the doorway. Between themselves, the vertical parts of the frame are reinforced with horizontal crossbars.

When the frame is ready, basalt wool insulation is placed inside. The structure is sheathed with gypsum board, fixing the sheets with self-tapping screws.

Arch

It is difficult to make an arch. It is important to bend the elements equally to obtain a symmetrical design. Arches are different forms, but in the absence of experience, it is better to stop at the classic semicircle. The process consists of the following actions:

  • A new partition is built according to the principle of a straight line frame structure... If there is already a partition, the opening will have to be expanded so that the base of the frame does not interfere with the installation of curved arch elements. A wall profile is fixed at the top and side of the passage.
  • The frame of a semicircle of an arched doorway is made from a guide profile. The side shelves of the workpiece are cut with metal scissors at a distance of 3 cm. The incisions should be located strictly opposite each other. Prepare two identical elements
  • A semicircle is bent from the notched profiles. The details should be symmetrical. It is better to bend the workpieces at the same time.

  • The bent elements are fixed with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the opening to the side posts and the lintel. Further actions are aimed at strengthening. Cut pieces of the profile with scissors, put spacers, connecting the semicircular element with the base of the opening frame.
  • The sheathing of the doorway begins with front side... Two identical fragments are cut out of the gypsum plasterboard. It is important to make the oval correctly. It will be impossible to smooth out large defects with putty later. The finished front fragments of the doorway are fixed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

  • To make the curved part, measure the width and length with a tape measure. It is better to take the second indicator with a margin. Measurements are transferred to a thin sheet of ceiling gypsum board, a strip is cut out.
  • The back side of the fragment is rolled with a needle roller, moistened with water. When the punctured cardboard gets wet, the gypsum board strip will easily bend in a semicircle. The fragment is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to do this with an assistant.

After sheathing, the corners of the arch are reinforced with a perforated corner. Further actions are aimed at finishing the doorway: primer, putty, sanding, painting or wallpapering.

Plasterboard finishing

When you only need to correct the contours of the passage, it is enough just to level the doorway with plasterboard without constructing a frame from a galvanized profile. Fragments of the required size are cut from the sheets. GKL on the slopes and in the inner part of the opening are glued with a special glue for drywall, putty or fixed with self-tapping screws. The corners are protected with a perforated corner.

Finishing

After sheathing, drywall openings are finished. The work is carried out in the following order:

  • The doorway from the gypsum board is primed. Do not perform any actions until completely dry.
  • Serpyanka and glue are used to process the joints, caps of self-tapping screws. A perforated corner is glued to the corners.
  • The surface is leveled with a starting layer of putty, a plastic mesh is glued.
  • On top of the frozen layer, the structure is covered with a finishing putty. After the finishing layer has dried, grout with a sanding mesh or sandpaper.

For better adhesion, the sanded surface can be treated with a primer. After it dries, the new doorway is painted, pasted over with wallpaper or other material you like.

Working with GKL is so simple that you can equip even the most difficult doorway in 1-2 days.

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum comfort and comfort in what it has. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in an apartment is not enough to fully meet the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, study and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional zones with your own hands, dividing with frame partitions sheathed with plasterboard, and installing a door.

Anatomy of a drywall structure

Despite the peculiarities of the interior, your design idea, as well as the location and size of drywall partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. They are based on a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profiles, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the point of installation of the doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the crate is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides drywall sheets(GKL) is a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The frame from the profile is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum board sheets

Application area

Frame partitions, sheathed with gypsum board, are used to divide or zoning space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are installed in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of drywall allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements for fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures sheathed with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success been replacing partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:

  • Material properties. A strong metal profile allows you to mount lightweight partition walls of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, the galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material specially processed to improve its fire retardant and moisture resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GKL is perfect flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
  • Fast and easy installation... Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a beginner, "inexperienced" in construction work, can create them. home master... Note that one of the advantages of these designs is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
  • Laying of communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
  • Minimum costs. All the elements that make up the partition, sheathed with gypsum board, are of low cost. During the installation of the product, a pile of construction waste and dust is not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is expended.

Flaws

Be sure to note the design flaws that must be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

  • Relative fragility of drywall in comparison with materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
  • Low resistance of gypsum board to abundant moisture. The material can collapse as a result of a leak, "organized" by the neighbors living above.
  • The impossibility of attaching massive shelves or wall cabinets to the surface of the partition. The structure is capable of supporting a weight of up to 70 kg per one running meter, provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some disadvantages of gypsum board, we note that the competent creation and correct operation of partitions from this material will help to quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of the room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparation for work

That's it, this is the end of the short "theory course", we pass on to solving practical issues. First, we will consider a list of the necessary tools, we will list the materials that we will need for the construction of the structure, and we will also perform an approximate calculation of their number.

Tool

To install the partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but fairly common and simple tools:

  • Roulette, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
  • LBM ("grinder") or scissors for metal - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
  • A jigsaw (hacksaw) with plasterboard files or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
  • Impact drill or perforator - making holes in the load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
  • Electric (cordless) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition, you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! To mount the structure on the upper levels, you will need a solid step ladder. Work with a metal profile and drywall implies the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - glasses or masks, heavy gloves, and a respirator.

Materials (edit)

At self-assembly partitions the following materials will be used:

  1. A metal profile of two types for mounting the frame: PN - "guide" (English marking UW) - is attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls in order to design the outline of the structure. It is also used when creating a doorway. PS - "rack-mountable" (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is a load-bearing element of the lathing.
  2. Plasterboard for cladding - covers the frame on both sides.
  3. Insulation - fills the inner part of the structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the basic materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's consider this issue in more detail:

  • Profile. Standard installation interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the room's ceilings - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
  • Drywall. There are several types of material for sheathing the frame, the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum plasterboard - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and the creation of curved and curly structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
  • Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing the room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork plate or dense foam), and it will come in handy to highlight the hallway area basalt wool which keeps warm well.

In addition to the main structural elements, you will need to create it:

  • Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) - installation of the profile to the ceilings.
  • Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) - fastening the frame elements.
  • Self-tapping piercing screws for drywall (MN 25 or MN 30) - cladding assembly.
  • Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
  • Corner profile (PU) - reinforcement of the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Expert's advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing the joints between sheets and masking the zones of screwing the caps of screws on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing tape-serpyanka, primer for gypsum board, finishing putty.

Measurements + table for calculating consumables

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and to eliminate the need for additional purchase of material, you should correctly calculate its required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of sheathing layers). Consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a 75 mm wide profile and single-layer sheathing with gypsum board sheets.

  • Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract from this value the width of the doorway (0.8) and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will fix as a whole, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the rest of the length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the door installation site and installing jumpers between the posts.

    The UW profile is marked in black, shaping the outline of the structure

  • Rack profile (CW). Considering the standard width of the gypsum board sheet (1.2 m), the vertical posts of the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and another element is in the middle of the sheet.

    The frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other.

  • Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and getting as a result 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).

    The vertical pillars of the partition frame made of the CW profile are marked in gray

  • Profile for a doorway. At the place where the door is installed, we will have to displace one post, reinforcing it with a strip of the guide profile, the same constructive solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we need another three-meter post profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW), of the same length. To design the upper part of the doorway, a 1.0 m section of the guide profile will be used.

    Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue

  • Profile for lintels between posts. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers are installed between the posts from the guide profile at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and those surpluses that remained when calculating the partition contour.

    Lintels from the UW profile, which increase the overall rigidity of the structure, are marked in blue

  • Drywall. As a material for cladding, we use GKL sheets (plates) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we need five sheets, two of which will be used in full, and the other three will have to be cut to size. The calculation of drywall for the second side of the partition is performed so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are shifted by half of the sheet. It also needs five slabs - two full and three trimmed.

    On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be positioned in this way

    The second side of the frame should be closed with the sheets offset by one stand or 600 mm

Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with an offset of the joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when sheathing it.

Summing up the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway, we need:

  • guide profile (UW-75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
  • guide profile (UW-75) 4 meters - 3 strips;
  • rack profile (CW-75) 3 meters - 9 strips;
  • drywall (GKL 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fasteners) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels that fix the guide profile to the ceilings should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.

Engineers of the German company KNAUF - the world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us with the calculations.

Position Name Unit measurements Quantity per sq. m
1 KNAUF-list (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)sq. m2,0
2 Knauf profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)pog. m0,7
3 Knauf-profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)pog. m2,0
4 Screw TN 25PC.29
5 Putty Knauf-Fugenkg0,6
6 Reinforcing tapepog. m1,5
7 Dowel K 6/35PC.1,6
8 Sealing tapepog. m1,2
9 Primer Knauf-Tiefengrundl0,2
10 Mineral wool thermal insulation Knaufsq. m1,0
11 Knauf-profile PUPC.*

* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of ​​the structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations when building a drywall partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work are completed, we will be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of our neighbors and proceed with the installation of the structure.

Craftsman's Advice: Any construction works with the use of drywall should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting works... Before the measures to create the partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled by sealing the potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and markup

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the place of its installation and draw up a schematic plan, according to which the marking will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:


Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, here you need to add the thickness of the drywall slabs and the layer of its finishing.

Installation of lathing

Having finished with the markup, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and start manufacturing metal frame our partition:

  1. LBM ("grinder") or metal scissors cut pieces of the UW guide profile of the required length. On the back side of the blanks, we glue a sealing damper tape, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.

    Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibrations

  2. We fix the strips along the horizontal marking line by drilling holes for dowel-nails with a puncher (with a pitch of not more than 400-500 mm) and hammering in the fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen it is advised to start with the upper rail located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to "shoot" the correct installation of the floor profile from it with a plumb line.

    We drill holes for dowel-nails with a puncher and hammer the fasteners with a hammer

  3. We will install vertical guides, fixing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and controlling the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel-nails (6x60 or 8x60).

    By mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the vertical with the help of a building level

  4. We will form a doorway by installing racks from a reinforced profile in the marked place. We will measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut off two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack and fix it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150-200 mm), or you can strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden bar, picking it up by size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.

    Insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with self-tapping screws for metal

  5. We will install the reinforced rack in the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap is useful), check the strict vertical of the element with a level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. We will mount the second rack in the same way.

    When installing the rack, first install it in the lower rail, then carefully put it in the upper

  6. Let's set up posts from the CW profile with a step of 600 mm, starting from any of the load-bearing walls... The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, check the verticality with a level, we carry out fasteners with self-tapping screws for metal. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack-mount profile, since it is at this point that sheathing sheets with a standard width of 1200 mm will be joined.

    The rack profile is attached to the guides with self-tapping screws for metal

  7. We will mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Cut off from the strip of the guide profile a piece 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip the right size with blind ends.

    A wooden beam can be inserted inside the upper beam of the opening, which additionally reinforces the structure

  8. We will install a jumper between the posts of the opening in the right place (we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing flooring), check the horizontal building level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. This structural element can also be reinforced in any of the mentioned ways.
  9. If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to make and mount additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the uprights. The parts are made in the same way as the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW upright profile with self-tapping screws for metal.

    Variant of the location of the transverse jumpers in the frame with a height of more than 3 m

  10. Inside the finished frame of the partition, we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which it will be possible to attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After that, we will install the electrical wiring, laying it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.

    Wooden beams must be fixed in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.

This completes the installation of the frame, you can proceed to the next, no less important stage in creating the partition.

Sheathing of the frame with the installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with a special insulating material. Long-term practice shows that an inexpensive, but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs reliably retain heat, and also isolate the room from extraneous noise

Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of the interior partition, purchase slabs or mats of mineral wool of the required thickness - the material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and fits comfortably between the elements of the crate.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, we will perform the following steps:

  1. Let's go around one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting from a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm step began for the CW profile racks. Remember that when installing the gypsum board, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5-10 mm at the joints of the plate with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and "blind" installation in the spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.

    Installation of cladding is performed from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began

  2. We attach the cladding sheet to the profile, twisting the self-tapping screws for the gypsum board around the entire perimeter with a pitch of 250–300 mm. We recessed the caps of the self-tapping screws inside the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.

    The caps of self-tapping screws must be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall

  3. With a jigsaw or a knife, we cut out the rest of the sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack-mount profile.

    We join sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile

  4. Having closed one side of the frame, we put it inside insulating material, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the racks.

    Place the cut-to-size slabs of mineral wool between the racks of the crate

  5. We mount the cladding on the other side of the partition, displacing the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

    We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)

  6. We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets at the installation site of the doorway with an angular profile.

Attention! When assembling the plasterboard cladding, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to attach an extension or non-standard size parts, you will have to insert additional profile elements into the frame.

Final chords

Having finished the sheathing of the partition frame, insert into it door block and we will solve the issue with the surface finish of the drywall. If a strict vertical was observed during the installation of the opening, installation of the unit will not cause any difficulties.


The issue with the surface finish of the cladding is also solved quite simply:


Now the partition with the door is ready for any kind of finishing - it can be pasted over with wallpaper, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster- it only depends on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed acquaintance with the installation process of a frame structure sheathed with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a plasterboard partition and install a door

Many years of professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing drywall for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap at all. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.

Many modern apartments do not have a layout and therefore the owners independently divide the total area into rooms using interior partitions, or use decorative ones.

The simplest, fastest and in an accessible way creating interior partitions are plasterboard structures... Such partitions can be either solid or with a door, and if you have the desire and time, then you can make them yourself.

Drywall is universal building material, which is used both for decorating a room and for creating new structures in it, including interior partitions, and for creating an apartment. Only the following can compete with it in terms of characteristics: or

Benefits of using drywall if it is necessary to create an interior partition with a door, they will be as follows:

  • it is light material, therefore, the load on the structure of the house will be insignificant;
  • all work with it is done by hand, without the involvement of assistants, since the material is light;
  • the cost of drywall is low, as well as the materials needed to create the frame and surface finish ;
  • material is easy to cut, it bends easily, therefore, even arched structures are created with its help;
  • installation of the frame and sheets is simple and quick;
  • finishing of such structures is carried out with various materials;
  • gypsum plasterboards are made of natural materials, therefore they are safe for human health.

There is different types drywall, therefore, before buying it, you need to decide which one you need:

  1. usual, most often gray, used in rooms where the humidity is not more than 70%;
  2. moisture resistant, has a green or blue color and is used in those rooms where the humidity is constantly high;
  3. refractory, usually used in the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the wall, fiberglass and other additives are present in its composition, it is red or gray;
  4. fireproof moisture resistant, it is rarely used in rooms with difficult conditions.

Normal sheet thickness is 12.5mm, and to create arches, sheets with a thickness of 6.5 mm are used; to give them flexibility, they are pre-moistened.

Interior partition device

At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to determine the location of the future partition. To carry out the marking, use a plumb line and a cord, parallel lines are applied on the floor and on the ceiling.

Much easier to work with laser level, but buying it only to create a drywall wall is impractical.

Given the presence of a door, the profile is not laid on the floor for the entire length of the partition, but space is left for the doorway. When laying the profile, keep in mind that the distance left for the door is 1-2 cm larger than its width in order to be able to install the door frame.

When marking, the width of the partition is also taken into account., if it is sheathed in one sheet, then add 2.5 cm to the thickness of the frame, and if the gypsum board is laid in two layers, then add 5 cm.

To carry out the specified work, you will need the following tools:

  • building level;
  • measuring instruments;
  • a cord and a plumb line, or as their replacement - a laser level;
  • corner;
  • electric drill;
  • scissors for metal or jigsaw;
  • pencil;
  • stationery knife;
  • putty knife;
  • container for plaster.

After marking, we cut off the profile of the required length, we glue the back walls with sealing tape.

Installation of profiles


Work begins with laying and securing the guide rail to the floor.
, after which it is installed around the entire perimeter of the future partition. The profile is fixed using screws or dowel nails, it all depends on the material of the walls.

Now using the rack profile we form a doorway, this must be done carefully and carefully, so that the distance between the posts above and below is the same... The verticality of the racks is checked by level, after which they are fixed.

To increase the strength of the doorway, it is recommended to put wooden blocks of the appropriate size in the racks and fix them with self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, the rest of the rack profiles are mounted. if you have GKL standard width, then the distance between them is 60 cm.

To increase the strength of the future partition, between the vertical posts, it is necessary to fix horizontal jumpers, which are cut from the same profile.

A wooden block is also installed and fixed in the transverse profile located above the doorway, it should easily enter it, so as not to disturb the shape, using a square check that the angles are 90 degrees.

Rest transverse profiles fastened to the racks, for this, special short self-tapping screws are used.

After the frame is created, you will see that its structure is quite rigid and strong, start laying electrical wiring... The rack profiles have holes through which it will be convenient to thread the wires.

The wiring is placed in a special corrugated non-combustible insulation.

Fastening drywall

At home you can use a utility knife to cut drywall and a long ruler or rail. To do this, a ruler is applied to the sheet, a cut is made several times along the line, the deeper it is, the better, and then gently break the gypsum board and get the required size.

To simplify Finishing work, at the cut point, make a chamfer at an angle of about 45 degrees, for this use a plane or knife.

During settlements, it is necessary to foresee in advance the places where it is planned to mount hinged furniture or equipment.

Here additional profiles, reinforced wooden blocks, it all depends on the weight of the hinged structures.

Left attach the sheet to the racks, and fix it, this is done using self-tapping screws, they are installed with a step of 20 cm and slightly recessed in the sheet.

If you forgot to make chamfers on the sheets before installing them, then this is done with a knife when they are installed on the wall.

Carrying out finishing works

Installation of the frame and gypsum board is only the beginning of creating a drywall partition. In the next step all seams are sealed. To do this, use a serpyanka tape and putty. Putty is also carried out on the entire surface of the wall.

After the base is dry, they begin to level the surface. The wall is covered with a primer, which will allow the plaster to anchor better and provide additional protection GKL. Leveling is carried out with a wide trowel and finishing plaster.

Door block installation

In the prepared opening, door frame installation, do it with wedges, self-tapping screws and polyurethane foam ... First, the frame is exposed with wedges and fixed with self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to the installation of the door leaf.

The correctness of the work is being checked, while the door should be easy to open and close. If everything is normal, then the remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

At this time, the door is in a closed position, or spacers are inserted into the frame so that when the foam hardens, it does not deform it.

Cut off the foam after it has completely solidified, if the canvas was removed, then hang it only a day after the installation of the box.

Finishing

At the last stage of creating a drywall wall, it is carried out finishing, for this usually use paint or wallpaper. The frame is trimmed with platbands, which help to hide the door attachment points.

Features of insulation and sound insulation

It is not recommended to leave the hollow partition; it will be filled with sheet or roll insulation. They are laid after one side of the wall is sheathed with plasterboard., and only then it is sheathed on the other side.

If you plan to install utilities in such a wall, or sliding door, then in the place where they are located, the insulation is not laid.

To create sound insulation, use mineral wool or isover. At the bottom, when installing the sheet, you need to leave a small gap, therefore, stands of the appropriate thickness are installed.

In order for you to independently create a drywall wall with an opening for doors, you must adhere to the following expert advice:

  1. During the installation of partitions, in the room should be at least 10 degrees Celsius.
  2. You need to calculate the required number of guides and rack-mount metal profiles, only then purchase them. You can cut them to the required size with a jigsaw or metal scissors.
  3. The sheets are stacked tightly to each other.
  4. To create holes for sockets, you must use special drill bits.
  5. At the junction of the sheets, be sure to use a serpyanka and well seal the heads of the self-tapping screws with putty, after which they putty the entire wall.
  6. As finishing materials, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, cladding panels and others.

Conclusion

Now you see that there is nothing complicated in the construction of drywall partitions and all the work can be done independently. Having studied the technology of work performance, expert advice and preparing necessary tool, feel free to start performing the specified work.

Useful video

How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands, step-by-step instruction on video:

In contact with

People do redevelopment in their homes not so rarely. Especially in modern new buildings, where space is not as problematic as, for example, in Khrushchev buildings. And if you remember the options for boxes with a free layout, it immediately becomes clear how wide you can swing in your "architectural" ideas. However, when planning to block off too large an area, you should immediately think about a drywall doorway. Otherwise, you can get into a situation where the two rooms do not communicate in any way, and it is easy to move from one to the other, and there is simply no way.

Another situation is likely, especially in old houses: there is a huge and inconvenient passage between the rooms. In this case, you need to think about how to reduce the doorway - and with drywall it is easiest and most convenient to do this.

Redevelopment and layout of the doorway

Let us first consider a more complex and laborious process, in which it is supposed to install a partition dividing a room into two rooms, with the placement of a doorway from hl in it.


When calculating, do not forget to lay an additional 2 cm in the width of the opening: they are hidden when sheathing with sheets.

If you decide how to refine and reduce the doorway using drywall, then the actions will be the same, only the frame is set in size in which you see the passage between the rooms. If there is no intention to close up the gypsum board the entire room, the rack-mount profiles are attached directly to the sidewalls of the existing opening.

Stage of finishing

The general principles of cladding remain traditional, with minor additions.


The step between the fasteners in the sheets is recommended to be done within 20-30 cm. The self-tapping screws are screwed into drywall with the head deepening by 1 millimeter. If you overdid it, and the hardware has gone too deep (this is well defined with your fingers to the touch: a hole is felt, and not a smooth section, which means that the fasteners are too deep), it is unscrewed, an indent of 5 cm is made, and the self-tapping screw is screwed in again. The unnecessary hole is putty when the doorway is finished - this is also done by hand. The joints of adjacent sheets must fit on one rack-mount profile - this must also be taken into account when erecting the frame.

Before installing the door, the usual finishing works are carried out:

  1. The corners of the drywall doorway are reinforced with a perforated metal corner, planted on a starting putty, with a mandatory check of the geometry of the entire structure.
  2. Fasteners are sealed with the starting composition; when processing joints, a serpyanka is added to it.
  3. After priming and drying, a finishing filler is applied.

When she dries up, the slopes are sanded. Since you are unlikely to paint (or otherwise finish) them under the door frame, you do not need to prime the surface again.

Door installation

The approach to solving the issue is similar to installing a door in any other material.

  1. Going to door frame: the canvas is not hung on it.
  2. The jamb is inserted into the opening. The level is carefully controlled by its strict verticality.
  3. The box is temporarily fixed with wooden spacers.
  4. After the next check, if you are sure that the jamb is not skewed, the box is fastened with long self-tapping screws into the corresponding racks.
  5. Spacers are inserted into the door sides to keep the geometry in the last step.
  6. The crevices are blown out with foam.

After the assembly hardens, the excess is cut off with a sharp knife, the pegs are removed, and the final plastering and finishing are performed. And those who are looking for ways to ennoble a doorway without closing it with doors, just for visual zoning of a room, can make it in the form of an arch without a canvas.