Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

Thermal insulation of apartments, especially in old houses, often leaves much to be desired. First of all, this applies to floors in apartments located on the ground floor. As a rule, only a concrete floor slab separates the room from an unheated basement, which does not have good thermal insulation properties, which is why all the inhabitants of the apartment feel uncomfortable in the cold season. How to insulate the floor in the apartment on your own to save the situation and make your home warm and cozy?

What should be the materials for thermal insulation of the floor?

Exist various options insulation and a variety of insulation, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the apartment and financial capabilities. What heat-insulating materials can be used to insulate the concrete floor of the first floor with your own hands?

First of all, such materials should be:

• Durable. Still, this floor is the surface that experiences the greatest load in the apartment. Therefore, the insulation must withstand significant pressure.

If the selected type of thermal insulation does not have high strength, then you should choose a laying method that would not provide for large loads on thermal insulation material.

• Lungs. Do not create additional load on the floors. In addition, lightweight material is more porous, which means it retains heat better.
• Moisture resistant. The insulation should not lose its properties when wet or moistened, or should be protected by reliable waterproofing.
• durable. It is advisable to carry out such a procedure as warming a concrete floor only once during the entire stay in the apartment. It takes too much time, effort and money, even if everything is done by hand.

Note! Floor insulation in an apartment almost always has side effect in the form of a decrease in the height of the room due to the thickness of the thermal insulation.

How to insulate the floor in the apartment?

Consider which materials will be most preferable in case of insulation of the concrete floor of the first floor.

• Expanded clay. Some time ago, this material was quite often used for floor insulation. Its main disadvantages are low moisture resistance and a rather large thickness of the heat-insulating layer.
• Perlite. In terms of thermal insulation properties, it surpasses expanded clay, but is heavier than it.
• Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene. Very handy for do-it-yourself floor insulation. They are not afraid of water, rodents and microorganisms, they are absolutely harmless. However, Styrofoam is quite brittle and less durable than Styrofoam boards.
• Mineral wool. Do-it-yourself insulation of a concrete floor is most often carried out using this particular material. In addition to heat-insulating properties, it also has good sound insulation, has a small weight and a relatively low price.

The use of mineral wool for floor insulation involves the construction of a log frame and the mandatory use of waterproofing, since when wet mineral wool loses its properties.

• Cork insulation. It has excellent qualities, but due to the high cost it is used quite rarely.

Floor insulation methods

To carry out the insulation of the concrete floor of the first floor, it is not enough just to put warm linoleum or carpet on the floor on a thick substrate. There are three options with which you can solve the problem of thermal insulation of the floor:

• using sheets of plywood or chipboard;
• concrete screed over a layer of insulation;
• using a lag structure.

Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. But regardless of the choice of option, it is necessary to observe general principles thermal insulation installations.

• The old floor covering needs to be removed. Ideally, you need to get to concrete slab overlap. If this is difficult to implement, for example, the floor is laid ceramic tile, then linoleum or carpet with a thick substrate can be laid on chipboard without removing the tile. The main thing is that the surface is even. But wooden coverings before insulating the floor, it is better to dismantle it so as not to run into problems in the future.
• Floor insulation must include mandatory waterproofing. Concrete is famous for its ability to pass and even attract water. Therefore, it is necessary to reliably protect the room from moisture penetration.
• The surface must be leveled before laying the insulation. This is easier to do at the initial stage than to level the floor with lags or screed later.

Insulation with chipboard or plywood

This is the fastest and easiest way to insulate the floor in an apartment, which does not involve the use of special insulation. With it, you can make a heat-insulating substrate for a short time with your own hands before laying linoleum or carpet. However, it must be borne in mind that this method cannot be called ideal option insulation of the floor of an apartment located on the ground floor, as it provides a relatively low level of thermal insulation. Floor insulation works are performed in the following sequence:

• The old foundation is cleaned of dirt and dust.
• To ensure waterproofing, a layer of polyethylene film is laid on the base, the joints of which are glued with adhesive tape.
• Before laying sheets of chipboard or plywood, it is necessary to form a thermal gap of 1.5–2 cm between them and the walls. This will avoid warping of the coating caused by the expansion of the sheets with temperature changes.
• Coating slabs are laid in two layers offset from each other. Thus, the sheets of the upper layer must overlap the seams formed between the plates of the lower one. Dowels are used to fasten the sheets.
• The seams are treated with a solution of putty and oil paint. You can use reinforced mesh.
• On the resulting substrate is laid top coat in the form of carpet or linoleum. It can be simply pressed with skirting boards. Another way is to glue the carpet to the heat-insulating substrate using bustilat.

Insulation under the screed

This method will require much more effort than insulation with chipboard sheets. But the thermal insulation that this method provides will be much better. Simultaneously with the increase in thermal insulation properties, it is possible to level the floor surface. How to insulate a concrete floor in an apartment under a screed?

• Initially, the existing coating is removed from the floor, preferably to the concrete slab. After that, the surface is cleaned of dust and debris.
• A layer of vapor barrier is laid, which will prevent the penetration of moisture into the insulation. The vapor barrier film must be placed on the walls by about 3–5 cm, and the joints must be glued with adhesive tape.
• The insulation is tightly laid, and then another layer of vapor barrier is laid.

If foam or polystyrene foam is used as a heater, the second layer of vapor barrier can be omitted.

• Fits over the entire surface of the floor metal grid and attached around the perimeter of the room.
• The screed is being poured. The thickness of the concrete layer after drying must be at least 5 cm, otherwise such a substrate may simply not withstand the loads and crumble. The entire screed must be poured at one time, using a mortar of grade 200, stirring the cement in the appropriate proportion.
• After the solution dries, the surface is primed. The floor covering is laid on top. It can be laminate, linoleum or carpet.

Implementation of thermal insulation along the lags

If the selected thermal insulation material is not able to withstand significant loads, then it is necessary to conduct insulation along the logs. For the construction, even bars with a cross section of 50 by 100 mm are suitable, which are very desirable to pre-treat with an antiseptic solution. It will protect the logs from the penetration of the fungus and extend their service life.

• After cleaning the surface of debris, it is waterproofed. To do this, using a brush, you need to apply a layer of bituminous mastic, also capturing the walls to a height of 5 cm.
• Logs are laid from a bar, the first and last logs should be located close to the wall.

Tip: in order not to cut the insulation material, supplied in the form of rolls or sheets, the distance between the logs can be chosen equal to its width, but not more than 90 cm. In the case of using bulk material, the rule applies: the thinner the logs, the smaller the distance between them .

• The laid logs are leveled and fixed with anchors. It is possible not to fasten if the bars rest securely against the wall.
• Having laid the insulation between the logs, if necessary, lay a layer of vapor barrier and lay sheets of plywood or chipboard, fixing them with self-tapping screws on the logs. It is recommended to lay two layers, shifting them relative to each other. A gap of 1.5–2 cm is left between the sheets and the wall.
• On the substrate thus obtained, a finishing coating is laid, which is a laminate, carpet or linoleum.

Self-insulation of the floor on the ground floor is not particularly difficult, and a variety of materials and technologies allows you to choose one of several methods that is most suitable in terms of labor costs and financial investments. Let your apartment always be warm and cozy!

The cold floor in the apartment is the number one problem. The inhabitants of the first floors suffer from a constant breath from below. Even by insulating the ceiling and walls, you will not correct the situation, since the main contact area is the flooring. Exit one. Quality insulation floors will not only create comfort in the rooms, but also reduce the material costs of paying for heating.

Types of insulation, which is better to choose

The types of existing heaters allow you to make a choice that is most suitable for each individual case. Bulk materials, slabs, a roll version, as well as a liquid composition, each is suitable for floor insulation on the ground floor.

Bulk materials
Varieties of bulk insulation materials include expanded clay, foam plastic chips, slag and some others. Their advantage is the ability to fill the space between the existing crate as much as possible. Expanded clay also has low thermal conductivity, high strength and durability.

Plate materials
This type of insulation is also subdivided depending on their main component. These are mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, basalt fiber, vermiculite and others. They are lightweight and have low thermal conductivity. To increase thermal insulation, they are used complete with rolled heaters.

Styrofoam is an environmentally friendly finishing material, affordable, but it is fragile and melts when heated. A more successful option is polystyrene foam, which has a higher density, and besides, it is not combustible.

Vermiculite is also an environmentally friendly material, but expensive in slab design. An alternative would be its granular form, which is considerably less expensive.

Roll materials
In this form, mineral wool, cork mats, foil insulation with a different number of layers are produced.

Some species from this category have a small thickness, therefore, to keep the heat of the floor, it is better to combine them with thick varieties. As for mineral wool, which is an excellent thermal insulator, it copes with the task as an independent option. Add in its low cost and you get a great solution to the problem.

Liquid insulation materials
This insulation is a mixture of cement mortar with expanded clay, foam plastic chips or wood shavings.

Popular liquid insulation- penoizol. It is a polymer having a foamed structure. They fill the entire space with the help of specialized equipment.

There is also an environmentally friendly, but rejected by many material. Plant fiber from straw pressed into mats is an excellent alternative to modern materials. The only one negative moment- over time, it decomposes, like any organic matter.

One of the factors influencing the choice of insulation is the type of floor base - concrete or wood. Also on design features the process of insulation is affected by the presence of a basement or its absence.

One side, concrete base durable, which is why it is the main material for flooring in apartment buildings. But it holds the cold well. This is especially noticeable on the first floor, regardless of whether there is a basement or whether the floors are close to the ground. In any case, a thermal insulation device is required.

If there is a basement, waterproofing must also be provided, since the dampness that forms below will be deposited on the walls in the form of mold.

1. It is necessary to start floor insulation with preparatory work. Remove the clean coating, check the concrete base for cracks, crevices and other deformations. Eliminate existing defects, bay cement mortar leave until completely dry. Then treat the surface with an impregnation specially designed to strengthen cement and concrete.
2. Next, a waterproofing layer is laid, which is successfully used as a polyethylene film. Its edges should be brought to the walls by 15 cm.
3. Frame arrangement for insulating material. Logs are placed on pre-laid bars, and the structure itself is attached to a concrete base.
4. The next step is the installation of insulation. The first layer may be loose. Above it is the space between structural elements filled with any other type of insulating product.
5. For moisture resistance, the structure is covered with a waterproofing film, fixing it to the logs with brackets.

On this, the warming process can be completed. But if the height of the room allows and family budget, you can enhance the thermal insulation properties of the floor base. Plywood or boards are suitable as a subfloor, it depends on the type of clean coating.

A wooden floor is distinguished by practicality, aesthetic appearance, environmental friendliness, it is warmer than concrete. But even this type of coating on the ground floor needs to be insulated. Technological process takes place in a certain sequence.

1. Remove the existing coating, checking its integrity.
2. Fill the space between the lags with sheets of mineral wool or foam. If expanded clay is used as a heater, choose fine granulation. Pour loose and compact so that the backfill is uniform and dense. But before you deal with expanded clay, lay the waterproofing in the form of a plastic film.
3. The next layer is gypsum fiber sheets, which differ from drywall in increased strength. Putty the seams and you can lay the finishing floor.

Expanded clay insulation is the most reliable option for keeping warm. It can also be laid on a concrete base. Differs in the minimum heat conductivity, low density, very easy.

External insulation options

A huge role in the insulation of the floor on the ground floor will be played by external insulation, that is, a number of activities carried out in the basement. This is not always realistic, and not every material is suitable for these purposes, but when conditions allow, this opportunity should be used.

It is impossible not to take into account the presence of existing communications that interfere with the work. The use of mineral wool is unacceptable with high humidity in the basement. Observing fire safety standards, foam insulation also has a certain risk, but in some cases it is possible. To the ceiling basement glue sheets of insulation with a ready-made composition sold in specialized stores. Fill the joints with mounting foam.

The most optimal solution is to insulate the door to the basement. Let it be a little, but heat can be saved in this way. The access of cold air will stop if the basement is closed for winter period ventilation hole.

Insulated floors of a new type, in addition to maintaining the thermal regime of the floor covering, also increase the air temperature. Their varieties differ in the principle of operation and cost, both during installation and during operation.

1. Infrared floors are a special purpose film. Fits directly under the finish coat.
2. Electric are mounted in a coupler or on top of a draft flooring. Installation of such a floor is quite simple, but the negative point is its high power consumption.
3. Water is a tube with circulating water. They sink into the screed. This is the most economical option for installation and operation. First, one of the classic heaters is laid on the floor to reduce heat loss. Spreads on top reinforcing mesh designed for fixing pipes with clamps. The tubes themselves are arranged in a spiral, water is poured into them. And only after special testing is carried out screed. When it dries, you can proceed to the device of a clean floor. The effect obtained from warming in this way will meet all expectations.

Each person is characterized by the desire for economy and comfortable conditions. To get both at the same time, it is enough to use one of the methods of floor insulation in an apartment on the ground floor. You will feel comfort instantly, but economical effect will be your companion throughout the entire stay in a warm room.

Video: floor insulation above a cold basement

Insulation of the floor of the first floor worries many owners of private houses, because the room can lose a significant amount of heat through the floor. To minimize heat loss, and at the same time reduce the cost of heating a house, you need to perform high-quality and proper insulation surfaces.

There are several ways to implement this task. At the same time, different heaters can be used to create a reliable heat-insulating layer. Familiarize yourself with the features of the most popular materials, choose the most suitable method and proceed with the installation of thermal insulation.

Popular thermal insulation materials and their features

On the modern construction market, big choice materials, the characteristics and properties of which make it possible to use them for warming the floor of the first floor. Each insulator has both a number of advantages and a certain list of weak qualities.

Mineral wool

The most popular material for insulation various designs is mineral wool. Among its main advantages are:

The main drawback is the weak resistance to moisture, against which it becomes necessary to equip a high-quality waterproofing layer, otherwise the insulation will collapse very quickly.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of slabs and mats, which makes it possible to choose the most convenient option for a particular situation.

Find out more in our new article.

Styrofoam

No less popular heat-insulating material. Advantages:

• low thermal conductivity;
• small thickness and relatively low weight;
• strength;
• durability;
• resistance to mechanical damage.

Unlike mineral wool, polystyrene foam does not require such a serious moisture protection device.

If you have enough budget, you can even buy polyethylene foam. During the production of this material, its surface is covered with aluminum foil, eliminating the need for additional waterproofing.

It is a cellulose-based insulation with a variety of additives that improve its fire-resistant and environmentally friendly characteristics. The structure is a loose material. Ecowool is very easy to arrange - just pour it into a pre-assembled crate and cover it with a flooring.

A significant disadvantage of ecowool is its low resistance to moisture. Under its influence, the material very quickly loses its operational properties and is destroyed.

This heater is rapidly gaining popularity. Main performance characteristics fiberglass is beyond praise. The material is great for warming the floors of rooms located on the ground floor. Also among the advantages of fiberglass should include an affordable price.

The choice of the method of arranging the heat-insulating layer

Before proceeding with thermal insulation measures, it is necessary to study not only the properties of the most popular heaters, but also familiarize yourself with the features of their arrangement. Depending on the structure, materials are classified into:

• loose;
• solid. This category includes roll insulation, as well as heat-insulating materials in the form of mats and plates;
• liquid.

It is carried out using the already mentioned ecowool, as well as the following materials:

• slag;
• shredded foam;
• sawdust.

Bulk materials are convenient in that they can be used to insulate even the most hard-to-reach places. The method is equally effective both in private houses and in apartments on the ground floor.

However, despite its effectiveness, loose thermal insulation has not received widespread, because more modern and easy-to-install heaters are available on the market.

Solid thermal insulation

Rolls, slabs and mats are most commonly used for insulation. Such materials have a relatively small thickness - an average of up to 100 mm, so the living space when using them is not significantly reduced.

Typical representatives of the category are mineral wool and polystyrene. Also, mats made from plant fibers of natural origin are gaining wide popularity.

Liquid thermal insulation

Not very common, but very effective method. The following materials are used:

In terms of quality, this is in no way inferior to plates, mats and roll materials. However, for spraying the compositions, one has to use special equipment, which does not have the best effect on the cost of work.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Floor insulation options and instructions for their implementation

The procedure for insulating the floor of the first floor will vary depending on whether there is a basement or basement below.

If there is a cellar

If there is a thermal insulation work in the house or basement, it is necessary to start with them. First, you must insulate the walls and ceiling of the basement. Secondly, before warming the surfaces must be qualitatively waterproofed. Otherwise ground water seep through the walls and destroy the insulation.

If you do not want to dismantle the floor, or if you intend to create the highest quality thermal insulation, use the method, the essence of which is to insulate the basement ceiling.

First step. Lay out and fix the moisture-proof film. Lay strips of film with a 10-15 cm overlap. Be sure to seal the joints with tape.

Second step. Pin to the waterproofed surface of the lath of the crate. Select the width of the rails and the step of their placement in accordance with the parameters of the insulation used.

Third step. Lay slab or roll insulation in the space between the slats. To fix the thermal insulation, use a wire or fill the cross rails.

Fourth step. Nail the flooring elements (boards or OSB) to the slats.

After insulating the basement, you can proceed directly to the insulation of the floor.

First step. Lay and attach cranial bars to them.

Lay on the fixed bars wooden planks or OSB. The flooring should be such that there are no even minor gaps at the joints of the elements.

Second step. Cover the flooring with waterproofing film.

Third step. Lay the selected insulation on top of the film. Nail the support joists to the base.

Fourth step. Make another flooring from OSB or boards. The gap between the flooring and the insulation should be about 10 mm.

If there is no basement

In the absence of a basement or basement, work on floor insulation will be easier and faster. If there are no premises mentioned, then the floor, as a rule, is located directly on the ground or on the foundation.

In such a situation, the sequence of warming will be as follows.

First step. Remove the flooring, if present, to gain access to the foundation or ground. If the floor is made on the ground, carefully level the ground.

Second step. Spread on the base in a 10-15 cm layer. This backfill will provide additional thermal insulation.

Third step. We lay the reinforcing layer. The necessary rigidity will be provided by an ordinary chain-link mesh. Lay it on the base.

Fourth step. Make a new tie.

Fifth step. Cover the hardened screed with a moisture-proof film.

Sixth step. Nail the battens to the base of the lath.

Seventh step. Lay the selected thermal insulation material in the space between the battens.

Eighth step. Mount deck boards and complete finishing at your discretion.

Insulation option using floor heating system

This technique is not insulation in the truest sense of the word, but it allows you to make the room much warmer. The system can be (film, cable) and water.

The easiest to arrange is a film infrared warm floor. To install it, it is enough to simply level the base, spread the film in the necessary places and connect the system to electricity. The screed is not filled. The key advantages of such a system are the possibility of laying it under any topcoat and ease of installation. The disadvantage is the relatively high cost.

It is also relatively easy to install and can be combined with most existing finishes. floor coverings. You don't need to do a stitch. The main disadvantage is the high cost of operation.

The most popular is this system is the most economical. It requires preliminary arrangement of waterproofing of the base, laying of special mats (it is best to use plates with so-called bosses, since in this case you do not have to use additional fasteners) and subsequent pouring of the screed.

Thus, a wide variety of materials and techniques can be used to insulate the floor of the first floor. Now you are aware of the features of each available option and you can make the best choice.

Successful work!

Prices for heating cable and accessories

Heating cable and accessories

Video - floor insulation above a cold basement

Video - Warming the floor of the first floor

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How to insulate the floor on the first floor - 5 proven ways

The folk wisdom that has been proven for centuries, which says that you need to keep your head cold and your feet warm, is relevant for owners of housing on the ground floor like no other. These people know firsthand what the consequences can be if the floor is not insulated in time. The indestructible smell of dampness, constant colds in children and general discomfort in the house are just some of these problems. In this article, I decided to dwell on how to properly insulate the floors on the ground floor in a city apartment and in a private house.

Suitable types of insulation

Insulation for the floors of the first floor, in principle, you can use any. Here you need to look at your financial capabilities, professional skills and, of course, on what basis the material is chosen for. It is one thing to insulate the floor of the first floor in a wooden house, and quite another, the arrangement of a concrete slab in a city apartment. I selected the most popular materials and combined them into a table.

Subtleties of installation of insulation

Since the wooden and concrete bases are quite different in their characteristics, accordingly, the methods of their arrangement will be different. Further, in order not to dump everything in one "heap", each instruction will be considered separately.

Method number 1. Floor insulation from below

The concrete floor of the first floor in multi-apartment city buildings from below, in the vast majority of cases, borders on an unheated, and often even a wet basement. Therefore, I am convinced that it is necessary to start work with insulation in the basement. Thus, you will completely cut off the access of moisture and at least half make your floor warmer.

• It is not worth spending money on some sky-high expensive materials here, ordinary polystyrene is quite enough. The thickness of the insulation in this case starts from 50 mm. As far as I have seen, the ceilings in the basements are not covered with anything, this is a common reinforced concrete slab. Therefore, the first thing to do is to blow out all the cracks around the perimeter of the ceiling and on the ceiling itself, especially between the floor slabs, with mounting foam;
• The concrete slab itself is smooth, naturally the adhesion of such a coating is rather low. To increase it, we will need to walk along the ceiling with deep penetration soil;
• Then everything is simple. We take foam boards and glue them to the ceiling. As an adhesive, you can use the same mounting foam, building glue "Liquid nails" or dry building mix Ceresit CT83. Personally, I prefer Ceresit. After the glue has finally set, the remaining small gaps between the plates will need to be blown out again with mounting foam.

If you glue on mounting foam, then take into account the fact that it expands greatly, so every 15 to 20 minutes the plates will need to be pressed against the ceiling. Typically, the extension lasts about an hour and a half.

Some craftsmen prefer to mount the foam on the ceiling in the basement in 2 layers, with a shift relative to each other. Explaining this by the fact that a denser monolith is obtained, without gaps. I think it's redundant. More precisely, in the case when the facade insulation of the house is mounted, this measure is justified, and in the basement it is an extra waste of material, time and effort.

For an ordinary dry basement, this will be enough. But if there is water in the basement, then I recommend making additional waterproofing of the ceiling. This procedure is also inexpensive.

You will need to take Liquid Nails or some similar glue, apply it with a spatula to the foam and paste over the ceiling with technical polyethylene. So that the polyethylene does not fall off before the glue sets, it can be shot in places with a stapler to the foam.

Opinions of experts on whether it is necessary to install the so-called external insulation of the subfloor in wooden houses, diverge. Personally, I don't think it will get any worse than this. So you not only insulate the basement from below, but also protect the wood from moisture.

You need to act according to the technology described above. Only here it makes sense to fix the foam in addition to glue on the draft layer of the subfloor with plastic dowels-umbrellas. This is due to the fact that the tree is a living material, and when it starts to “walk”, the sheets may peel off.

Method number 2. Installation of insulation with a crate

For a novice master, this method is considered one of the easiest and most understandable. The only problem is that the thickness of such insulation starts from 50 - 70 mm. Therefore, in apartments with low ceilings, this can be a problem.

• Work begins with the preparation of the concrete base. The old coating, if there is one, must of course be completely torn off and cleaned well to concrete. After that, all cracks and cracks will need to be caulked. This can be done using putty or the same mounting foam;
• On top of any concrete base, you will need to lay a layer of waterproofing. Too powerful protection is not required for an apartment, especially if you have already hemmed the ceiling with foam plastic in the basement. Here it is enough to lay technical polyethylene in one layer. But only polyethylene should be overlapped around the entire perimeter of the walls. From the start, I do an overlap of about 10 - 15 cm, then the excess will be cut off;
• The basis of the crate are wooden bars. Their thickness is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. The bars are usually laid parallel to the short wall of the room with a step of about half a meter. For fixing, anchors or self-tapping screws with “quick installation” dowels are used. I usually fix with an interval of no more than 1m, the support bars will not go anywhere anyway;

• Next comes the stage of installation of the insulation itself. If the basement is not insulated from below, then the thickness of the insulation starts from 50 mm. But for mineral wool slabs, the minimum is 100m. Filler from sawdust-cement mortar, expanded clay and other loose insulation should be taken at least 150 mm. Only dense foam, foam plastic and liquid modern heaters (polyurethane foam, penoizol) can be laid with a thickness of 50 mm;
• If you approached the matter thoroughly and first insulated the ceiling in the basement, then all these dimensions can be safely divided in half;
• Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene foam is selected or cut clearly according to the size of the gap between the support bars. With such a calculation that the plates were butt. Slabs of dense mineral wool should be a couple of centimeters wider than the gap between the bars. They will press down a little on the sides and you will get a solid, dense insulation;

• From above, a layer of such insulation can be sewn up with a tongue-and-groove floorboard with a thickness of 30 mm or more. If a top finish is planned, such as laminate, linoleum or parquet, then it is better to use plywood or OSB sheets. Moreover, under the laminate, one layer of sheets with a thickness of 12 - 16 mm is enough, and under linoleum or a package, sheets of 10 - 12 mm will have to be laid, in a double layer with a shift between the layers.

Method number 3. Floor insulation in a wooden house

The insulation of the floor of the first floor in a wooden house is somewhat reminiscent of the option using a wooden crate. In wooden houses, all interfloor ceilings, including those on the first floor, are made two-layer.

The design is based on massive wooden lag Oh. From below, it is hemmed with a layer of subfloor, and from above, of course, there is a finishing coating. As you probably already guessed, in the middle we will have a heater.

• When the bottom draft coating is hemmed and all the wood is impregnated with protective compounds, you can proceed with the installation of the waterproofing layer. Unlike the apartment version, waterproofing the subfloor in a wooden house is done more thoroughly. Moreover, it is laid not only on the subfloor, but also wrapped over the log, in a single monolithic layer;
• If you have chosen technical polyethylene, then it is covered in 2 layers and fastened with a stapler. Roofing material or modern rolled waterproofing can be installed in 1 layer, but they sit on bituminous mastic, which in turn is also a good waterproofing agent;

• In a wooden house, there is already enough to burn, therefore, in most cases, preference is given to non-combustible material. Dense basalt wool slabs are now considered the most popular. The depth of wooden logs, even in the lungs country houses taken at least 150 mm. Accordingly, basalt wool is laid either in one layer of 150 mm, or in two layers of 75 mm, always with a shift between the layers;

• Expanded clay is deservedly considered the second no less popular material. This is folk a budget option. According to the rules, expanded clay should fall asleep a couple of centimeters below the finishing floor, that is, the upper cut of the log. But I always recommend from the start to fill up any loose insulation flush with the lags. In any case, over time it will shrink and you will get the same ventilation gap;

Expanded clay is produced in the three most popular fractions. The sand has a diameter of up to 5 mm, the diameter of the gravel does not exceed 2 cm, everything that goes beyond these limits is called crushed stone. So, in order for the insulation layer to be more dense and monolithic, before backfilling, you need to mix expanded clay gravel or crushed stone with expanded clay sand in a ratio of 1: 1.

• As I already indicated in the table, mineral wool and expanded clay are hygroscopic materials. Therefore, from above such a heater in wooden houses will need to be covered with a layer of vapor barrier or simple polyethylene. This is especially true for country houses with seasonal residence. Otherwise, in a periodically heated room, the insulation will quickly become saturated with moisture and lose its properties;
• The last stage of the arrangement of insulation, we, as usual, are installing finish coating. In capital wooden houses, a tongue-and-groove floorboard is often used. In light country houses, plywood or OSB is mounted, and what is on top is laid.

Method number 4. Warming with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam is a special modern material, and its use should be discussed separately. To be honest, I think that as a heater for the floors of the first floor, this material is close to ideal. There are several variations of it, in our great power it is better known under the brand name Penoplex.

The uniqueness of penoplex lies in the fact that, in addition to all other characteristics, it absolutely does not let water through, and most importantly, it has a serious margin of mechanical strength. It is penoplex that now insulates highways and runways of airfields.

I have already mentioned that it can be laid in a crate, although, in my opinion, this is too expensive. In the case of a crate, it is quite possible to get by with dense foam sheets of more than 30 kg / m³. By the way, they are at least 2 times cheaper. There, after all, anyway, the lion's share of the load falls on the support bars.

Penoplex showed itself best in two cases. This is when arranging a laminate and as a heater under a screed. Thanks to the grooves located along the perimeter of each sheet, such flooring is mounted quickly and completely hermetically.

If you already have a basement insulated, then you can safely use sheets of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of about 30 mm. Even in a harsh climate, this will be enough. The preparation of the base is the same everywhere. Theoretically, you can not lay a layer of waterproofing under the penoplex, but it will not be a mistake if you play it safe and cover the room with polyethylene.

• The sheets of insulation are connected to each other through grooves, and these grooves are additionally glued with any suitable glue, this stuff is now more than enough on the markets;
• As you know, the laminate is mounted using a floating technology, that is, it is not rigidly connected to the base. Therefore, further we cover the insulation with a polyethylene foam substrate and already lay our laminate on it.

Penoplex has one weakness, he is able to easily transfer large loads only if they are evenly distributed over the entire plane. The material may not withstand point pressure. Laminate, in turn, provides a uniform distribution of this load.

By the way, using a similar technology, you can equip the base for linoleum or block parquet. A foam layer is also laid there, a thin foam substrate is laid on it, and OSB is mounted instead of a laminate to evenly distribute the load. Sheet thicknesses up to 10 mm are sufficient here.

As I mentioned, penoplex, almost the best option for screed insulation. Moreover, the screed can be either ordinary cement-sand or modern self-leveling.

• The technology of arrangement here is also quite simple. After laying the waterproofing and the foam layer, a metal reinforcing mesh is laid on top. Too thick fittings for an ordinary apartment should not be used. I usually take wire with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm;
• After all, the thickness of the screed itself often does not exceed 20 mm. It's only on large areas, size from 50 - 70m² concrete screed made up to 40 mm thick;
• If you are going to use a cement-sand mortar, then you will first need to fix the beacons, and between them already lay the reinforcement. Lighthouses are easiest to fix with a stapler. When everything is ready, the solution is thrown on top and aligned with the beacons by the rule;

• A self-leveling screed is generally a “song”, you do not need to have any special talents and skills to install it. There are instructions on the package to prepare the mixture. Then this mixture is poured onto a layer of reinforced foam and slowly helped to level it with a spiked roller.

Important: Penoplex is allowed to be mounted exclusively on a flat floor. Insignificant, smooth differences in height within 3 - 4 mm are allowed.

Method number 5. Warming with a dry screed

The so-called dry screed is used exclusively for warming the concrete base. At a cost price, it comes out cheaper than many of its competitors. Expanded clay mixture (sand - gravel) is taken as the basis there.

The point is to align the loose base as evenly as possible along the horizon. After that, a rigid monolithic flooring is mounted on it, using floating technology. OSB sheets, waterproof GKL or thick, about 10 mm plywood are often used as flooring.

It is quite difficult to ideally level loose expanded clay without skill. Therefore, I recommend that you first mount the support beacons on the floor.

It is not worth biting into durable concrete with self-tapping screws. It is quite enough to plant beacons on alabaster pyramids. After that, you simply fill the room with expanded clay mixture and distribute it according to the rule over the lighthouses.

The sheet flooring is mounted in 2 layers, as usual with a shift between the sheets. Such installation will not be difficult, there you can safely drive through the screws, they will not damage the expanded clay pillow. And note that such flooring is called floating because it is not rigidly attached to anything. The gap between the wall and the flooring is left within 10 mm.

Conclusion

Now you know how to properly insulate the floors on the first floor. In the photo and video in this article, I placed related information on the topic of floor insulation. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

Frosts are rapidly approaching, and the temperature in many apartments is far from the most comfortable. We have to put on warm clothes, buy heaters, sleep under several blankets, which causes discomfort. What to do if it's cold in the apartment? It is quite possible to solve this problem on your own.

What to do if the apartment is cold

Cold batteries in the apartment: what to do?

High-quality radiators are the key to warmth and comfort in the house. If the radiators are many years old and the apartment is cold in winter, it may be worth replacing them. But before you run for an expensive purchase, do a survey: sometimes the batteries do not heat up due to air jams or due to the negligence of utilities. Where to complain if it's cold in the apartment, we told.

Many modern models radiators are manufactured with , so you can set the right temperature. High-quality heating devices can serve faithfully for decades, therefore, having spent only one time, you will forget about cold batteries in the house for a long time.

There are several types of radiators:

• Cast iron - the most classic option, which has been used for heat supply for over a hundred years. Cast iron batteries are durable, corrosion resistant and have high heat dissipation. They are not afraid of hard, low-quality water and pressure drops. The disadvantages of cast iron radiators include bulkiness and unaesthetic appearance. Nonetheless, modern design of these batteries with monograms and original coloring will fit well into the interior of the classical style.
• Aluminum - durable, lightweight and elegant heaters. Ease of installation, optimal price and high heat dissipation make aluminum batteries an ideal choice for many. However this species radiators are prone to corrosion with a high alkali content in the water.
• Steel radiators are often used for heating private houses and offices. They have excellent heat dissipation and corrosion resistance. Their disadvantage lies in the sensitivity to water hammer - sharp drops pressure in the pipe.
• Bimetallic the radiator, in simple terms, consists of a steel core and an outer aluminum layer. This design is optimal for city apartments: the steel pipeline is not subject to corrosion, and aluminum, which has good thermal conductivity, perfectly supplies heat to the room. However, all these advantages are overshadowed by the high cost of the product.
• Copper batteries provide efficient space heating due to their thermal conductivity - it is much higher than that of aluminum and even more so than that of steel and cast iron. That's just the price copper radiators, as well as bimetallic ones, will not please everyone.

The choice of a radiator depends not only on your tastes and financial condition, but also on compatibility with your heating system. Therefore, before buying, you should determine whether the characteristics match heater(pressure, allowable temperature, heat transfer, etc.) indicators of the heating system.