To make a subfloor in wooden house do it yourself without violating technology, you must comply with the requirements of the standards SP 31-105 (Energy efficient frame house single-family).
The subfloor is used according to wooden beams exclusively as a sub-base for floor coverings that do not have the design strength for the planned operational loads (for example, linoleum, carpet, laminate).
In addition, the flooring provides a level surface for small-format cladding (e.g. parquet, pvc tile) by analogy with a solid roof lathing for shingles... Or it protects the floor coverings from excessive heating when installing underfloor heating circuits (for example, linoleum) under it.
The only guide on how to make a rough floor inside a wooden cottage is currently SP 31-105.
Cottage from a log house, timber or built according to frame technology, can be based on any type of foundation, depending on the relief and soil conditions:
Important! In the latter version, the construction of a subfloor in a wooden house is made using the technology of cold or insulated floors above the subfloor. Therefore, inside it is necessary natural ventilation, protection against radon and moisture. Materials should be laid taking into account the increase in vapor permeability from the inside to the outside.
It should start with the fact that, in the absence of specialized education, individual developers unfamiliar with professional terminology call different designs a subfloor:
These structures are not always found in pairs in the floors. For example, in a garden house and other seasonal buildings without heating, there may be no filing on the cranial bar, since it makes no sense to insulate the ceiling in this case. But when choosing a laminate as a floor covering, the installation of a sub-floor in a wooden house in this example is necessary to ensure the strength of the cladding base.
In the regulations building codes it is indicated how to properly lay the sub-floor on wooden floors or beams on concrete slab, earthen floor. The flooring is made of panel materials (plywood, chipboard, OSB), edged boards and tongue-and-groove boards. The main requirements are:
Important! Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, with the exception of the base for elastic flooring. With this option, only ribbed or ruffled nails can be used.
Insulation materials are positioned inside the slab pie as follows:
Hardwood floor cake with subfloor.
It is recommended to impregnate wood with antiseptics, fire retardants or complex fire protection before cutting the materials. After sawing, drilling and other mechanical processing, it is necessary to process the cutting area with a brush.
Even if the impregnation with the indicated substances was not carried out due to a lack of time or due to the forgetfulness of the developer, this can be done after installation. However, before treating the subfloor with a fire retardant and antiseptic, you should clean the surface and, if possible, dust it.
Application is allowed OSB boards and other materials with sufficient rigidity and strength. In wood-containing boards, the formaldehyde emission class should be low - only E0 or E1.
Thickness structural material selected according to the table:
| Beam step, m | Material thickness, cm | |||
| DSP, plywood | GVL | board | Chipboard | |
| 0,4 | 1,5 | 3 | 1,6 | 1,6 |
| 0,5 | 1,6 | 3,6 | 2 | 2 |
| 0,6 | 1,8 | 3,6 | 2 | 2,5 |
Advice! The thickness of gypsum fiber board and plywood can be reduced to 1.2 cm if the finished floor covering is a tongue-and-groove board with a minimum thickness of 1.8 cm, laid strictly perpendicular to the beams with a step of 0.6 m.
The main tasks in the construction of this structure over an unheated underground are:
Important! Ordinary plastic film completely transmits harmful radon, which is why it cannot be used as waterproofing in the presence of an underfloor. This material is destroyed by the cold, has a low service life.
Therefore, currently only film membranes of the following types are used:
If you confuse which side to lay the waterproofing and vapor barrier, all moisture will remain inside the floor structure, which will lead to the rapid destruction of the wood.
The arrangement of the membranes inside the slab under the subfloor.
The classic scheme of the subfloor on the logs of the wooden floor looks like:
Currently, the design has been improved:
Thanks to the damping layer, the structure becomes floating, the walls are relieved, and the service life is increased. However, as the height of the beams increases and the width decreases, the stability deteriorates. Therefore, spacers, horizontal and vertical ties are used between adjacent boards 5 x 20 cm, installed on the edge.
If the project contains beams of 10 x 15 cm or 15 x 15 cm with a large step between them, the above-described overlapping scheme will be cheaper for the developer. modern methodology the following reasons:
Floating soundproofed wooden floor.
The different ways of supporting the beams on the walls are shown in the figure below.
For self-choice cross-sections of the beams, it is necessary to know the loads and the dimensions of the spans. The table will help with this:
In interfloor wooden floors, the owner usually uses a continuous filing of board or slab material in his home.
There is no lower floor in the basement floor, so decorating the ceiling of the underground is not required. This allows you to reduce material consumption and construction time:
Advice! In interfloor ceilings, the overlap filing can be immediately made from a block house or euro lining, used as a ceiling cladding.
After laying everyone insulating layers in done on their own wooden frame slabs, subfloor decking is made:
For most existing claddings, there is little difference in what the subfloor is made of. However, for porcelain stoneware, tiles and mosaics, it is necessary to use DSP or GVL, with which the tile adhesive has normal adhesion.
Important! For sheet materials, the recommended step for fastening screws, nails or self-tapping screws is 15 - 30 cm. The hats are usually flush, then putty. Chipboards, tongue and groove and gypsum fiber panels with locking joints ensure the ideal flatness of the floor, but they are more expensive than edged boards, OSB and plywood without locks at the edges.
Since moisture can penetrate into the base of the flooring from the ground below and from the room above, the subfloor materials need to be impregnated with an antiseptic. In addition, to ensure the fire safety of sawn timber and wood-containing boards, they should be covered with fire retardants that increase the fire resistance limit.
The following antiseptics are most in demand:
Important! When using antiseptics on an organic basis, the application technology is similar to staining, it is allowed to immerse materials in these liquids. Water-soluble antiseptics and dispersions should be intensively rubbed into the lumber with a brush until foam appears, indicating the onset of reaction with the material and normal impregnation quality.
To save the construction budget, it is enough to choose a budget "prophylactic" water-soluble antiseptic for internal works... Unlike the "healing" hydrophobic liquid, it does not correct the defects existing in the wood, does not have decorative properties and does not require additional treatment with a glazing compound that emphasizes the structure of the fibers. But it absorbs and dries faster, it is easier to wash off tools and overalls.
Flame retardants are rarely sold separately, they are usually included in combination products. For example, the fire-retardant product contains both fire retardants and antiseptics, which reduces the processing time of construction materials.
The subfloor allows the use of decorative floor cladding material that does not have self-supporting properties, rigidity and resistance to bending loads. The main difficulties arise with the device of partitions and outboard consoles.
To ensure the service life of the partitions, their installation should be carried out along the floor beams. If the internal non-bearing wall passes between the beams, they must be reinforced with jumpers from a board or bar according to the scheme below. In order for the wood of the subfloor to withstand the loads, the following conditions must be observed:
Important! Jumpers are not required if the partitions run perpendicular to the joists.
The internal solid wall of a wooden cottage should rest on the bottom wall or the ceiling girder. It can be displaced 0.6 m to either side relative to the support node of the floor beam between floors and 0.9 m in the attic.
If the size of the side of the opening in the floor, perpendicular to the axes of the beams, is more than 1.2 m, then they should be made double. Similarly, the lintels are reinforced, limiting the opening parallel to the beams, if the size of the opening in the ceiling exceeds 0.8 m.
If there are bay windows in the project of a wooden cottage, the ceiling can extend beyond the perimeter of the walls in a cantilever manner. In this case, the following conditions must be met:
In the latter version, the beams are spliced "into the floor of the tree"; the cuts must be processed with a hand or power tool.
Therefore, the subfloor for installing the flooring should be considered as part of the hardwood floor and not as part of the edged board flooring. Before laying sheet piles or plates of gypsum fiber board, chipboard, it is necessary to check the correct location of the other layers, treat the materials with fire-retardant protection and choose a rational scheme of beams.
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A subfloor is required for the installation of "small-piece" or "soft" floor coverings. The article tells about the features of the arrangement of wooden floors, which are often used in houses, and the choice of materials, which is determined by the type of foundation and the type of finish floor covering. The schemes and stages of work on the arrangement of the subfloor are described. After reading this article, you will learn how to make a reliable, durable sub-floor with a flat surface.
The subfloor is the top of the overlap pie Source belinastroy.ru
The most common subfloor in a frame or timber house (go black) is to create a solid flooring that rests on beams. But for the first floor it is also possible when the logs are installed on the floor of reinforced concrete slabs along strip foundation, on a shallow foundation slab or concrete floor on the ground. The last three options do not fundamentally differ from each other, although in all cases the methods of fastening and aligning the lags along the horizontal level are different.
Since the concrete base itself is strong and reliable, it can be considered as the "underlying" part of the floor of the lower floor (according to the normative terminology of SNiP 2.03.13-88). In this case, it remains to equip only the "leveling" part (wet, dry or prefabricated screed) and the "intermediate" part (heat, steam and waterproofing). And already on the leveling part, lay the topcoat.
Ground concrete floors are another common option Source remontik.org
The subfloor is only part of the hardwood floor. It is made from edged boards, sheet moisture-resistant wood materials. The thickness of the flooring (board or sheet) and the layout of the lag have a "direct" relationship: less thickness - less interval between runs.
Important! If we are talking about a board, then for diagonal stacking(for example, in rooms with complex geometry), the lag step should be even smaller. Moreover, the angle between the board and the run must be more than 45 °.
Wood flooring is the top layer of the cake. The whole structure looks like this in layers:
Filing... It does not affect the load-bearing properties of the floor, but acts as a support for insulating materials.
The thickness of the hem must be sufficient to support the weight of the insulation Source doma-na-veka.ru
Waterproofing... Use materials membrane type... They do not allow water to pass through, but allow water vapor to escape from the insulation, which then comes out through the vents in the basement (filling) of the foundation.
Thermal insulation... Usually these are mats of mineral wool, which, unlike foam, are non-combustible materials.
Vapor barrier... There are three types in total. Films with limited vapor permeability, which maintain a "balance" between moisture transfer from the room to the insulation and from the insulation to the outside. Vapor-proof films are a vapor barrier that almost completely excludes the penetration of warm air with water vapor into the insulation. Foil materials (reflex films) are a vapor barrier that returns some of the heat back to the room. All three types, as befits a vapor barrier, have waterproof properties that protect the insulation from above, from the side of the room, from water ingress.
Flooring.
Multi-layer plywood sub-floor can withstand heavy loads Source yug-energo.ru
On our website you can find contacts construction companies that offer a turnkey service. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.
There are two main options for filing:
Under the beams... The disadvantage of this method is that there is often not enough "space" in the subfield of the house to perform the fastening procedure. Advantage - almost the entire volume between the beams can be used for insulation. Only in the case when reflective vapor barrier materials are laid, a small gap should be left between the film and the flooring.
Fastening to each beam, on both sides of the "opening", cranial bars - a filing is mounted to them. The most common and uncomplicated method. The disadvantage is that the layer of insulation will be less by the thickness of the cranial bar plus the filing.
This is how the overlap scheme looks like with a filing to the cranial bar. Source derevyannyydom.com
Over the beams... The disadvantage is that the height of the lag is chosen more than the thickness of the insulation. Alternatively, it is possible to lay an additional counter-lattice on top of the log for another layer of thermal insulation.
In principle, such a complex overlapping device is necessary only for a residential heated house. In a garden or country house for seasonal living, you can limit yourself to only wooden flooring without filing and insulation, although waterproofing in this case must also be installed in order to protect the wood from moisture.
Important! All wooden elements, from filing to flooring, must be impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants. And after sawing and drilling, the ends must be processed again with these compounds with a brush.
Fire retardant protection is an obligatory stage in the processing of wood working in extreme conditions Source derevovdom.ru
For flooring, they usually choose the following materials:
edged board;
waterproof plywood;
Fibreboard or chipboard with waterproof treatment;
cement particle board(DSP) or GVL.
Plywood is stronger due to its multi-layer structure and is much thinner for a sub-floor.
How to choose sheet material for a rough floor in the video:
A feature of the classic scheme is the significant distance between the beams.
Typically, the pitch is 0.8-1 m, and this is "reflected" in the choice of board thickness.
It looks like a "powerful" overlap of a house from a log Source ukrasheniyedoma.com
A typical subfloor structure looks like this:
timber with a section of 15x15 or 15x20 cm;
cranial block with a cross section of 4x4 cm;
filing with a board 2.0 cm thick (can be unedged, but cleared of wane) or plywood 1.5 cm thick;
waterproofing (glassine, polymer membrane);
insulation (stone wool) with a thickness of no more than 10 cm - this is everything that allows the remaining volume between the beams after installing the cranial bar with a filing;
vapor barrier;
board 4.5-5.0 cm thick.
And now such a design is used, but it no longer meets modern requirements for thermal protection. Therefore, a counter-lattice is mounted on top of the beams, between which another layer of thermal insulation is laid.
The advantage of the method is also that the lag layout can be reduced to 30-40 cm, and the subfloor boards can be selected with a thickness of 20-24 mm.
Complex insulation scheme frame house with double insulating floor contour and mesh as a filing Source obustroeno.com
A modern sub-floor laying scheme for wooden house is more perfect and allows you to insulate the floor without additional "superstructures" in the form of a counter-lattice:
Boards placed on edge... The straps fixed to the beam, and, if necessary, resting on intermediate supports, they act as a lag. The thickness of the board is 5 cm, and the width is at least 20 cm. The layout step can be made 60 cm (for the width of the rolls of stone wool), and in terms of wood consumption for runs, this option is more economical than the classical scheme.
Polymer (wire mesh) for supporting waterproofing and insulation.
Wind and waterproofing film membrane type. Allows excess moisture to be eroded, protects the insulation from water ingress and weathering of fibers.
Stone wool in the form of semi-rigid mats 20 cm thick.
Vapor barrier.
Flooring from boards 36 mm thick.
The only drawback of the modern scheme is poor lag stability. This is due to the large difference between the width (bearing part) and the height. To ensure the stability of the structure, additional cross ties are used, which "tie" the logs together and with the strapping (grillage).
Typical overlap of the first floor of a frame house from a board on the "edge" Source stranapap.ru
The advantages of the scheme are obvious - savings on lumber (in "volumetric" equivalent) and simple circuit insulation in one layer.
Under wooden floor there is no living room on the first floor, so “simple” materials can be used for filing without finishing or decorative surface treatment. The interfloor overlap from below is hemmed with a planed board or clapboard.
And although insulation of the floor between the heated floors is not required, mineral wool lay between the lag. In this pie of overlap, it acts as soundproofing. Ideally, acoustic wool should be used. It differs from the usual "chaotic" fibrous structure. But you can also install heat-insulating modifications - with the same thickness and density, their sound absorption coefficient is lower than that of an acoustic one by only 10-15%.
The overlap of the cold attic must be insulated.
Installation of the cold attic floor begins with the fastening of the vapor barrier Source legkovmeste.ru
And since even an “uninhabited” attic is used in a low-rise building, the insulation must be covered with a rough floor (but without further finishing).
The overlapping scheme of a cold attic looks like this (from bottom to top):
hemmed ceiling of the underlying heated floor;
vapor barrier, laid in a continuous and continuous layer, glued with a sealing tape around the entire perimeter of the ceiling;
insulation between the beams (lag);
membrane-type waterproofing, laid on the surface of stone wool;
a spacer bar packed on beams, providing a ventilation gap;
rough floor of the attic.
Important! The layered structure does not reflect the editing sequence. At the first stage, a vapor barrier film is attached from the bottom of the floor beams. And on top of it, a bar is mounted on the beams, to which the lathing is attached for the hemmed ceiling. If you first hem the boards, then the film will have to be laid on top of the beams. In this case, water vapor will penetrate into the wood, but they will have nowhere to erode, which will cause the floor beams to get wet and create conditions for their rotting.
The technology of how to make the right subfloor of a wooden house for laying tiles has its own characteristics, if a board is chosen for flooring.
Tiles in a wooden house in some rooms are simply necessary due to the nature of their operation Source et.aviarydecor.com
Unlike wood ceramic tile does not change its linear dimensions when the humidity level drops. Moreover, the tree reacts differently to such differences in the directions along and across the fibers. And to compensate for these changes, a “damper” layer must be laid on top of the boards.
Plywood or moisture-resistant drywall is chosen as the top layer of the leveling part of the subfloor. Plywood, although made of wood, does not change its linear dimensions due to the multilayer structure with a multidirectional arrangement of fibers in each layer. But it must be borne in mind that both materials are susceptible to deformation during prolonged contact with water or when operating in a room with a "wet" mode. And in such areas, before laying the tiles, you need to make another waterproofing layer.
If a wooden house stands on a slab (foundation or floor on brick base), then the floor of the first floor is equipped with a screed. In this case, the same technologies are used as in stone houses.
On the solid base the lags can even be installed on point adjustable supports Source pinterest.it
Even for the construction of a wooden subfloor, there is a choice among a wider list of methods:
installation of the lag on the coasters concrete base without fixing to the plinth and load-bearing walls(floating floor);
installation of lags on adjustable supports;
installation of adjustable plywood.
Steps for installing a sub-floor in this video:
This might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about.
Knowledge of the features of technologies and materials helps to correctly navigate when choosing the type of subfloor, since most finished projects compiled with the ability to link to different types foundation. In some cases, you can even avoid unnecessary costs of materials and payment of "extra" work. But this is possible only when non-professionals or unscrupulous contractors are engaged in the design and implementation of work on the arrangement of the foundation and binding to the conditions of the site. Therefore, it is better when all the work from "scratch" is done by the company, the author of the project, or it also carries out architectural supervision.
Every person knows that it is not possible to fully live in an apartment or house without an equipped floor. It is simply necessary. Is it worth doing it in a wooden house - this question worries many. Their logic boils down to the fact that why spend money on an additional subfloor, it may be easier to just immediately lay the final subfloor. Everything here is ambiguous.
You can of course get by with a clean one, but in this case it will not work to get a reliable and beautiful coating. But the main thing that the floor should stand out with is reliability, durability, Smooth surface, as well as some other parameters, which are extremely difficult to achieve without a subfloor. Changing the final floor every year, if there is no rough floor, is an unaffordable luxury.
Photo: rough floor in a wooden house
A rough floor is a special base for a finishing floor, which forms a flat horizontal plane for it. The subfloor distributes the load that acts on the floor covering.
In a wooden house, a rough floor can be done in several ways:
In a wooden house, the installation of a sub-floor on logs practically does not differ from its installation in monolithic or brick houses... The main difference is in the lag fastening.
General scheme devices
Floor lags should not be attached to wooden wall, and you don't need to crash into it. It is advisable to fix the logs to the plinth or foundation grillage, retreating from the wall by a few centimeters. At the same time, the distance of the support, which falls on the foundation, must be kept at least 10 cm on either side of the log.
Lags are attached to the plinth
Before laying the logs on the foundation, you need to lay the lower strapping made of long thin boards, to which the logs will be attached using metal anchors (corners).
Logs should not be rigidly fastened to the harness - they only need to be fixed so that they do not travel while laying other layers of the subfloor. The created structure will have an indent from each wall of several cm, where a thin insulation can be installed.
Be sure to need waterproofing lag
If the distance to the foundation is less than 10 cm, then it is better to cut into the walls, however, it will be necessary to first lay the logs on the foundation, and then attach a log or timber to them. Measure the contour of the cutout and then cut out the necessary grooves in the wood with the dimensions necessary for the support distance (for the subsequent expansion of the log, add about 2 cm).
Do not forget that the laying of beams and logs is performed on a basement or grillage only after laying a layer of waterproofing.
Lags are attached to the foundation grillage
The standard step between the lags is 40-60 cm. However, its choice depends on the width of the insulation, as well as the direct load. The section of the lag is also selected from the actual load. With a light section, choose 15 × 10 cm, with an average - 15 × 15 cm, with a heavy - 15 × 20 cm.
If the beam is of a small section, and the effect of the load is significant, then it should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm - this is a fairly optimal option.
With the end of the laying, the lag is made standard installation floor on logs. It looks like this:
A ventilation gap must be left between the insulation and the floorboard.
Important! Boards, bars and logs should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent them from being affected by various fungi and insects.
A plywood floor will last reliably for a long time. She has high strength. Plywood can even be used for the final flooring, as if it is carefully sanded and varnished, it will look quite noble. However, it is more often used as a base for covering with laminate, parquet and linoleum.
Laying plywood on an old floor
Plywood can be stacked:
Laying plywood on logs
Important! When laying plywood in one layer, it is necessary that its thickness is at least 15 mm, if in two layers, then you need to choose at least 9 mm for the layer.
All dust and debris must be removed from the subfloor prior to final installation of the plywood. It is also desirable to perform priming, that is, to process with a special primer.
Later, on the first base, in the interval between the lags, an insulating material is also placed. Only after this is the upper flooring made of boards. If you figure it out, this process is not particularly difficult.
However, in order to make a rough floor with your own hands, you will need to familiarize yourself in more detail with the methodology for its installation, having read the description of each stage.
The following fact can be considered a separate bonus. A competently executed rough base can significantly increase the service life of the final decorative coating floor. For this reason, it is highly desirable for this particular technology. It is quite possible to carry out familiar and simple procedures with my own hands... Compared to analogs, for example, floor pouring, the recommended design will have a much lower cost.
Are there any shortcomings in the subfloor made of wood?
There are few of them, but they are available:
A detailed description in the article of various will help a novice master to assemble a rough floor at home on his own. Guided by the above, you can get a clear idea of the sequence and correctness of the necessary construction activities.
A sub-floor is a prepared base for a topcoat: laminate, linoleum, parquet. The sub floor is wood and concrete.
The advantages of a wooden floor:
The disadvantage of a rough wooden floor is that this structure does not resist well high humidity... Therefore, wooden logs should not be installed in saunas and steam rooms.
Concrete screed also has its advantages:
The disadvantage of the screed is its cold surface. Such a floor must be insulated.
Regardless of the choice of the floor, the technologies for performing both structures are laborious and require careful work.
Making a wooden floor has its own technology:
Second or third grade wood can be used as sub-floor beams. The sides of the beams on which the flooring will creep should be leveled.
Logs can be installed in two ways: on the floor or on the base.
According to the first method, it is necessary to lay the logs of the lower strapping and make grooves in them in those places where the logs will creep top harness... The depth of the grooves is equal to the width of the upper beams.
The harness must be securely installed. For this, brick posts are made, which will serve as a support for the lags.
The installation of the posts is carried out on initial stage rough floor. This structure is also called "columnar foundation". The technology is as follows:
The distance between the logs depends on the thickness of the wood material: the thinner the timber, the closer the logs are. The laid bars must be fastened together.
The lag device "on the base" involves the removal of the top layer of the soil and backfilling of the surface with fine gravel. Logs with overlap are laid on the resulting base, as in the previous version.
A waterproofing film is laid on the lower base, and a layer of insulation is laid on top.
At this stage, you need to decide on topcoat... If this is a chipboard sheet material, then before laying it, it is recommended to perform a crate of transverse bars, which are fixed on the supports.
The flooring sheets are laid on the crate so that their joints are located in the center of the lintels.
Back to the table of contents
When pouring the subfloor, flaws and irregularities are allowed.
The purpose of the rough screed is to even out large surface differences in height and create a base for the final screed.
The step-by-step instruction looks like this:
First, you need to clean the surface of debris and use a level to determine the height of the screed.
Heaps serve as beacons cement mix the desired height on which the metal profile is laid. The guides are fixed with a solution. The height of the profiles is the level of the future screed.
For good adhesion of the rough screed to the base, it must be prepared. To begin with, it is necessary to seal up all large depressions and cracks with a solution. Next, the surface is primed to improve the adhesion of the concrete to the base surface.
All wires will be embedded in the tie. But before pouring, all communications must be wrapped with insulating material and fixed to the base with dowels.
Around the perimeter of the room, it is necessary to glue a damper tape, which compensates for the deformation of the screed.
To prepare the solution, cement and sand are taken in a ratio of 1: 3. Water is added to the mixture gradually, until a sour cream consistency is obtained. Roughly, the water consumption is 0.5 kg per 1 kg of cement-sand mixture.
Necessary tools for mortar preparation and screed filling:
The solution is poured between the beacons and the rail-rule, distribute it. If voids are formed, then the mixture is reported to those places and again equalized.
The cement mixture must be prepared in small portions, as the mortar quickly hardens. It is recommended to fill the floor in one day so that the surface is homogeneous.
The screed may shrink when dry. To prevent this, it is necessary to take the following measures:
A good subfloor is a guarantee solid construction the whole room. Quality installation and strict adherence to technology will allow the foundation to serve for many decades.
