A laser level is a fairly useful device used in any construction, which allows you to very quickly and at the same time as accurately as possible mark the level on any surface. To use such a tool, you do not need to have the skills of a professional builder - just install laser level on the floor or wall, turn it on and wait until the device projected lines in accordance with the horizontal or vertical level on the surface to be marked.
However, such a device in stores is not cheap and therefore it is advisable to learn how to assemble it with your own hands, especially since it will not be difficult.
Visually, the laser level resembles a small device that can be attached to different surfaces... The most popular methods of fixing the device are carried out through the following elements:
In addition to the method of fastening, construction levels are distinguished by the projection of the laser beam onto the surface: building a plane or direction. The instruments used to indicate the direction will produce a point projection on the surface. In turn, the levels projecting the plane are equipped with special optical systems that turn the beam into the plane. To date, specialists stand out several types of laser levels:
The main disadvantage of such universal devices is their relatively high price... The cost of the simplest device is not always affordable for the average consumer and is tens of times higher than the price of an ordinary bubble or water level.
If we consider the price of a homemade laser level, then a person will only have to spend money on buying a pointer. Other structural elements devices can be made with your own hands from scrap materials that can be found in every home workshop. The main task when creating a homemade laser level is mount pointer so that it can rotate freely around its own axis. But first you need to stock up on the following consumables:
To assemble a laser level with your own hands you need follow a certain sequence simple actions.
The main thing is that the support used is securely and motionlessly fixed... If this rule is neglected, then it will not be possible to set the level correctly.
Using a laser level assembled with your own hands from a pointer, you can make markings on any surface, but it is better to do this in low light so that the light beam is clearly visible. To start marking, the device is suspended with a rope in the center of the room in which the work is performed. The homemade level turns in the required direction and marks the desired distance along the length of the beam, after which a stick is installed on which convenient to mark.
After carrying out such simple manipulations, the level can be directed in any direction where it is necessary to make marks. Moreover, if the position of the support stick is unchanged, then all the marks will be located at the same height. After marking individual points, they can be connected with a construction cord, along which, using a construction meter, draw a marking line.
To create a laser level of this design with your own hands, you need to prepare a convenient container, a piece of plasticine or a plaster, in general, any substance or material with which you can fix the main part. Naturally, you will need laser pointer and a piece of styrofoam. The very same procedure for assembling the device takes place in accordance with a certain action plan.
Despite the fact that such laser levels can hardly be called ideal, however clarity of marking high enough and such homemade constructions have a right to exist.
This is another type of laser level that can be assembled by hand. This level is very convenient to use when hanging cabinets in the kitchen or pictures in rooms, as well as in many other situations. To make such a simple tool, a person will need camcorder tripod, an old player and a couple of unnecessary discs.
Due to the fact that the device is movably placed on a tripod, it can be rotate in any direction without changing the markup height. Thus, by setting the necessary parameters for marking, you can accurately hit the level on any surface in the room without the need to adjust the device every time.
Naturally, you should not expect from a laser level assembled by yourself to perform ultra-precise and complex marking operations. But for use in everyday life, such a device is quite suitable and even surpasses the quality of the factory water level in many ways. Plus, it will be able to provide the following functions:
But the main advantage of the laser level is the ability of the device project rays horizontally... Thanks to this, the builder can accurately control the quality of the vertical and horizontal level both when marking wall, floor or ceiling surfaces. In addition to construction, the level can be used for marking personal plot, facade decoration of a building or the construction of a fence.
Therefore, thinking about how to replenish your home workshop with a laser level, you should not rush to the store to buy an expensive device. Having shown a little ingenuity and dexterity, everyone will be able to assemble the level with their own hands from scrap materials. In this case, the maximum cash cost will be the purchase of a conventional laser pointer.
During repair or construction, one cannot do without transferring marks along the walls strictly in a horizontal plane. The most convenient way to do this is to use a laser level or a level that will build the desired plane. Consider three options for making such a device using a laser pointer.
The idea is to improve on a simple bubble level. A laser pointer rigidly fixed to the body of the level will be an extension of the instrument and will allow you to distribute marks to distant surfaces. If you set the level on a tripod and a turntable, you get a very effective tool for transferring marks in one plane.
What you need:
It is better to modernize the level with the handles in the form of oblong holes in the middle of the side edge. It is easier to attach the laser pointer to them using a clamp or zip ties.
Choosing a laser pointer. The simplest pointer will do, the main thing is that the point from the pointer does not spread out as a cloudy spot, but gives a clear round point at a sufficient distance. The button should be two-position so that you don't have to keep it pressed all the time.
Focusing may be required before using the laser pointer. To do this, unscrew the cap on the laser side. Under it will be the body of the focusing lens. If you carefully scroll it a third or a quarter of a turn with pliers, you will notice how the shape of the spot from the pointer changes. Adjust so that the point is as small and correct in shape at different distances.
Attach the pointer to the edge where the main bubble insert is. First, lay a backing made of rubber, dense foam, or a sheet of foam. On top of this is a laser pointer, and tighten with a worm clamp or nylon ties.
1 - laser pointer; 2 - rubber; 3 - nylon clamps
The beam should be placed strictly parallel to the edge of the level. To do this, place the tool on an extended flat surface, the end of a flat floorboard, or the tabletop of a table against a wall. The height of the pointer outlet must be equal to the height of the point above the support surface.
If there are no handles or other suitable holes at the level, carefully drill with a 3 mm drill two holes under the installation site and fasten the two worm clamps with 6x25 mm galvanized screws. Next, insert a spacer and a pointer into them.
If you put the level on a strictly horizontal or vertical surface, then when you rotate the level around the axis, you will be able to transfer the marks along the walls or ceiling and floor.
To further improve the design, attach a plate, plastic or metal plate to the tripod so that it can rotate on the tripod.
If you hang any massive object by one attachment point on a rope or thread, then it will rotate freely only around one axis directed strictly downward. Fixed strictly perpendicularly, the laser pointer will outline the required horizontal plane on all boundary surfaces.
A wooden block is suitable as a base. Screw one screw into the ends closer to the same face, leaving about 1 cm sticking out. Tie a thick thread to the screws, preferably a boot thread, which is weakly stretched. Thin copper wire will also work. The thread or wire should sag and, if you take it by the center, from the top point to the bar should be about 10 cm or more. Tie a string or another piece of thread to the center of the thread, which will be fastened, for example, to the chandelier hook in the center of the ceiling.
Now it remains to fix the laser pointer with glue or nylon ties to the upper edge of the beam so that the beam leaves it strictly perpendicularly, which is checked using a bubble level.
Now with the length of the thread on which the whole structure is attached, make sure that the point from the pointer points to the first mark on the wall. If you twist the beam in one direction and, together with it, the suspension thread, then with the reverse untwisting, the pointer will draw a line along the walls strictly in the horizontal plane with a run-up of about 1-2 mm, which is quite enough.
Also, such a builder can be made from a bubble level "modified" by a laser pointer. Just screw one screw into the plastic plugs at the ends of the tool, closer to the top edge. tie a rope to them and, moving the suspension point along the rope, achieve the horizontal level.
For those who are not looking for easy ways, you will need:
Remove the cover of the laser unit. Under it, you will find a hexagon or square, fixed on a stepper drive, a curved lens and a mirror, as well as a native laser. However, the latter gives out an invisible color, so it will go under the replacement for a laser pointer. The beam from the laser, hitting the side faces of the hexagon at an angle, is reflected into the lens, and then through the mirror into the exit slit. The hexagon constantly rotates and the point from the laser very quickly draws a line, the flicker of which is not even striking.
It is very difficult to control the drive driver for the mirror hexagon. It is much easier to fix a third-party drive and connect its shaft with a hexagon using a belt.
Measure the distance from the hexagon axis at which you can install the motor so that the belt is slightly taut. You will get a sector that runs along the circumference of the body. Choose a place where the motor will not interfere with the laser beam and can be easily secured with glue. If necessary, drill a hole and install the motor, connect its shaft to the hexagon axis.
Dismantle the native heatsink with the laser and its driver board. Attach the laser ruler so that it shines in the same direction.
It remains to power the motor. Connect in series the motor, the button and the crown battery. If desired, the laser pointer is also connected to the same battery, and parallel to the motor.
On the sides of the exit slit, two screws or pins made of 2.5 mm or more wire are fixed on the laser unit body. A thread is tied to them, and then the laser level can be used, as in the previous version.
In the video, a version of a homemade level using a mirror
A bubble level is used to set the line horizontally. It is quite possible that you will have to adjust the focus of the pointer, so it is better to remove the upper decorative cap immediately and use pliers to correct the shape of the beam so that it is at the exit of the whole structure that you get a thin line.
At runtime construction works you might be faced with the need to mark the walls for chipping or align the position of the TV, pictures on the wall. Piecework with one-time measurement of the position of objects in the horizontal and vertical plane can also be done with a bubble level. But if you need to lay wiring, install socket boxes, boxes, or do the markup for other purposes, you will have to take a long time with the usual level. Therefore, it is much easier to use a laser level, the only stumbling block is its high cost, so it becomes much more profitable to assemble a laser level with your own hands.
At home, you can make two types of devices - rotating only in the horizontal plane or giving markings in both the horizontal and vertical planes at the same time. The second option is performed in the form of two lines intersecting at right angles - a cross.
Method number 1. Laser level from a pointer and a container with water.
This is the easiest way to make a laser level with your own hands, for it you need any container into which you can pour water to the brim so that a piece of foam is placed in it. As a container, you can take any bucket or pan, cut off a plastic eggplant. Also take a regular laser pointer with a point attachment, a flat piece of foam with smooth surfaces... A piece of plasticine, a clamp or a plaster is used as a fastener, if you do not have any of these, you can use any glue or sealant.
The laser level is assembled in the following sequence:
In order to use such a device, turn the laser pointer to the point you need, make a mark on the wall. For further marks, turn the laser level around the axis in the direction you want. Place marks on the wall at the appropriate points. If you are drawing lines, put down a series of dots, which can then be connected to each other.
This level is much more convenient to work together, so that one person controls the laser pointer, and the other makes marks on the wall. Unlike the classic bubble level, this method will reduce the time for marking a room by three times. The disadvantage of this laser level model is its low accuracy. Therefore, its use is advisable in situations where there is no need to achieve accuracy to the millimeter.
Method number 2. Homemade device from pointer and level.
This is a more sophisticated version of the laser level compared to the previous model, but it allows you to set up much more accurate measurements.
To do this, you will need:
Look at figure 1, here is a diagram of the laser level, for its manufacture:
This model has much more precision in operation. But to use it, you will also need two people, one of whom will monitor the level, and the second will mark the walls.
To check the accuracy of the operation of such a device, it is necessary to screw a screw into the stand at the level of the beam, step back from the wall a few meters and screw a second screw into the wall, at the point of the pointer (Fig. 2).
Rice. Step 2 - checking the level accuracy If, by connecting these screws with a profile or a board, you get the correct horizon at the bubble level, then the device works exactly. If the bar needs to be raised up or lowered down, then the level must be moved in the same direction.
Method number 3. Making a cruciform level with a plumb line.
This method is relevant for those works in which you need to carry out simultaneous marking both horizontally and vertically, and for a sufficiently long time or on an ongoing basis. Since the manufacturing process is very laborious.
To do this, you will need:
From tools for assembly, you will need a hacksaw, drill, screwdriver or pliers. The most important feature of such a laser level is free suspension, like a pendulum. To do this, it must move freely in two horizontal planes.
To make a laser level:
if you decide to supply power in a different way, you can skip this item;
on the opposite side for connection charger and on top to install the button;
Rice. 9: charger hole 
The laser level is designed to determine the horizontal and vertical lines and planes during erection building structures and finishing. With this device, the geometry of the element can be observed with great accuracy. This is important for the strength and durability of the facility being built. But it is not always possible to purchase an industrial device. However, a skilled craftsman is able to create a laser level with his own hands. Let's consider how to do this, and whether a broken level can be repaired at home.
LEDs are installed in the body of this instrument, which are sources of laser radiation. With the help of a bright glowing line, you can mark any object both horizontally and vertically. Moreover, one person can easily cope with this work.
There are three types of lasers:
Prism instruments create a linear ray projection. When the luminous line collides with an obstacle, the device captures the data and shows the required marking. Such levels are equipped with an auto-leveling system necessary to compensate for errors up to 6 °. The projection angle of the laser beam does not exceed 120 °.
The prism laser level has a short beam range - on average, from 10 to 50 m.
Prism laser level allows to obtain horizontal and vertical planes intersecting at right angles
Rotary devices are classified as professional instruments. They are equipped with point laser devices, but not fixed ones, but rotating at an adjustable frequency. Designed for marking on very large areas for example on a construction site. The rotary level can project a plane 360 °.
Rotary levels are distinguished by a longer range of the laser beam - from 200 to 500 m.
By installing the rotary level in the middle of the room, you can mark all the necessary points around the entire perimeter
The point level has the simplest structure: the laser device is clearly fixed, and only the focusing lens is located behind it. It directs the light flux to one point. Set up the device manually. Such levels are equipped with one or more lasers. In the latter case, they are directed in different directions, which makes it possible to transfer markings from several planes - walls, floor and ceiling of a large area. The projection angle of the laser beam does not exceed 160 °.
The working range of the point level is from 15 to 50 m, depending on the model.
The compact and versatile point laser is designed for any leveling work at short distances
The purpose of laser devices is varied. They are necessary for the following types of work:
In the latter case, such an ability of the device as marking inclined planes is used. For example, you need to mount a railings on a flight of stairs. Having fixed the level with a laser on it, it is easier to install the railing parallel to the march.
You can understand how to use the level using the example of common construction and repair work.
When carrying out such work, additional control marks will be needed. Then the laser beam is directed along the plane. The laser is rearranged according to the marks for a more accurate determination of the evenness of surfaces.
When using a laser level and obtaining the same data, the floor is completely flat
For such work, it is better to take a device with the function of cross-projection of rays in the horizontal and vertical. Thanks to them, even a novice master will be able to flawlessly lay out the tiles.
The intersection of the level lines is exposed to the center of the proposed tile joints
The gluing process itself is quite easy, but using a level makes the work flow even easier. Focusing on the laser beam projected onto the wall, it is much more convenient to align the wallpaper.
Horizontal projection will contribute to the correct gluing of fillets and borders
Even in the presence of even walls in the house, which is quite an infrequent phenomenon, the interior can be spoiled by crookedly hung cabinets, shelves and other hanging accessories. And with the help of a laser creating a circular level line, you will immediately see how to install hanging furniture without distortions.
The horizontal beam of the laser level will help with the installation of curtain rods
The plane builder simplifies this process. To determine the exact placement of plasterboard walls and partition elements, you will need to install the laser so that its projection onto the floor, walls and ceiling is a mark for the intended partition.
When installing a metal frame under a plasterboard wall, the laser level is installed on the floor, the beam is directed upward so that it marks the profile installation line
A simple device can be used outdoors only in cloudy weather or at dusk.
If a lot of external work is expected (digging trenches, conducting communication highways, making a foundation), it is better to get a professional plane builder with a beam visible in sunlight.
The idea of a laser level with your own hands is quite simple - the pointer is mounted on a movable platform. The use of such a mechanism allows marking by rotating it at one level through 360 °.
In addition to the laser pointer, the following materials are required:
You can make a laser level with your own hands from a pointer in just an hour:
Laser pointer emits a point
If you pass the pointer beam through corrugated plastic, you get a line
The place where the parts are glued can be additionally coated with cold welding and turned
The imperfection of this version of the level is its one-sided mobility - only horizontally.
The laser level must be fixed perpendicular to the plane
If you need to apply markings not only horizontally, but also vertically, you can try to mount a more advanced device:
This type of assembly allows the device to change the position of the laser in the vertical direction. If you are smart and choose the right fork, you can actually assemble a device with a vertical rotation of 270 °.
It should be borne in mind that the larger the size of the fork, the wider the workpiece will be required to create a stable position.
This device is collapsible. For the stability of the base, you will need to find a fork with a hinge part of the desired section.
If there is no suitable plug, you can make it yourself from a durable metal-plastic ring of the desired section.
You will need to drill three holes: two on the sides, opposite each other, and the third exactly in the center between the two future "teeth" of the fork. Then the ring is trimmed to form a semicircle with three holes.
A home-made laser can be modified: screw an ordinary nut or "wing" onto the fastening screw, which allows you to quickly loosen and fix the base, as well as change the direction of the laser up or down.
After assembly homemade device do-it-yourself laser level adjustment is required. It is necessary to check it - to calibrate for the accuracy of measurements. An additional bubble level is required to run the test. Calibration is carried out as follows:
For example, the difference between the marks on the first wall is 4 mm, and on the second - 3 mm. As a result, the error is 1 mm. If it is more, then the device requires adjustment.
The self-assembled measuring device can be placed on a tripod or an adjustable pedestal, which will give the product convenience and functionality
To calibrate the vertical, mark two points in the vertical plane and check the marks against the bubble level.
If no deviations are noticed, then the plane builder is ready to work. If there is a discrepancy in the readings, the homemade laser device is adjusted by changing the location of the platform or articulated fork.
Due to the failure of the laser mechanism, it may indicate the wrong level or not work at all.
Homemade device needs repair:
Most often, repair of laser levels is required after the device has dropped. At the same time, the settings are lost, which leads to the issuance of incorrect indicators by the device.
If repair of a homemade laser is required, it is necessary to disassemble the device and reassemble it. If the problem is with the pointer, it is easier to replace it with a new one.
In order to avoid repairing a homemade laser level, it is important to be careful when working with it, especially on the street.
To build flat planes on large-scale construction sites, industrial levels with a large working range have been created. For minor repairs you can make a laser level with your own hands.
Repair for many has become a very unpleasant, difficult and time-consuming process. And construction is simply an overwhelming task. After all, it is quite difficult to build one or another object on your own and it is quite problematic for non-professionals. But with a competent allocation of time and a reasonable approach to the choice of tools and materials, as well as compliance with safety rules, you can significantly save. The most important thing when building new objects is to make a perfectly flat horizontal surface. After all, even a slight curvature can not only visually spoil the impression of the repair, but also bring physical inconvenience, for example, a slanting door.
| http://piknikrai.ru/ |
To facilitate and simplify various processes during construction, various devices and devices have been created. For example, a water level or a construction stapler. And if the first one can be done by hand, then the second is better to buy. Advice how to choose the right construction stapler help with buying it. A water level is a device consisting of a long hose and two sealed vessels filled with liquid. Its work is based on the principle of communicating vessels known from school. The water level can still be in the form wooden block, in which a cone is soldered in the middle. An air bubble in this flask shows the level. This type is convenient for level measurement on horizontal surfaces. And to measure it on vertical, it will be more convenient to use the water level from the hose and cones.
| http://alaskatour.ru/ |
In addition to the very obvious cost savings, such a device has other advantages, which are very significant:
The disadvantages include the sensitivity of water to a decrease or increase in air temperature. It freezes in winter and evaporates in summer. If you change the water to an anti-freeze liquid, then this problem can be avoided. Also, finished products have a significant disadvantage, their length is limited by the footage. If you do the level yourself, you can calculate the required length, ideal for a particular case. If the room is very large, then working with such a device will be very convenient. In addition, the finished device weighs very little.
| http://autoprofispb.ru/ |
Even a child can make a hydro level, of course, under the supervision of an adult. This requires the following items: a flexible hollow hose and two transparent vessels. Special flasks are special features of the store product. But when working under conditions low temperatures the hose may come loose from them. Therefore, in the process of self-production, they are replaced with vessels. One of critical features water level is the movement of water in the hose. It should move smoothly, no problem. The optimal diameter is 1 - 1.5 cm. It is important to remember that the hose can become cloudy under the influence of sunlight, so it will be difficult to see the water level. Self-production water level assumes the use of a hose of the required length. Having measured the required length of the cord, you need to cut it off. Then attach the vessels to both ends. It is also worth putting a scale on them in advance. If no suitable flasks are available at home, syringes can be used. They need to pull the pistons out of them, and the markings are already there. You can use plain water as a liquid. Thus, the water level can be made quickly and economically. And the ability to independently make a device of the required length will be a pleasant bonus.
Even in physics class, they showed an experiment with communicating vessels. Therefore, any student can use the water level. high school... It is necessary to attach one end of the level at the required height, for example, at the level of a meter from the floor. And gradually move the second end in the intended place so that the water level in both vessels is at the same level. After finding the optimal position of the liquid, both points are marked. The level is used in the process of many preparatory work such as floor screed or battery installation. Taking the right measurements will help you get everything perfect the first time, saving you time and money. It will be especially important correct use hydro level in the process of laying the foundation. Indeed, the strength, stability and reliability of the entire structure depend on it.
Self-production of such simple adaptation as a water level greatly simplifies the construction process, at the same time making it of high quality.
Master's tips
Prev Next
To Oil paint during storage it does not dry out and so that a film does not form on it, put a circle of thick paper on the surface of the paint and "fill it with a thin layer of drying oil.
"The plastic wrap covering the balcony or greenhouse is protected from breaking by the wind by a string stretched on both sides with intervals of 10-15 cm."
"To work with concrete mix was easier, clay is usually added to it, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoonful of detergent to it per bucket of water. "
"To prevent the screw, the head of which is hidden behind an obstacle, from rotating with the tightened nut, you need to put a few turns of thread or thin wire over it and slightly tighten the ends. Friction holds the screw well in place. The ends of the thread can be cut after tightening."
"You can cut out a birdhouse entrance without a brace. It is enough to split front side boards in the center and cut out half-holes of the required size with a chisel or a hatchet, and then reconnect the halves. "
Wooden screw caps will crumble and fall out of the wall. Take your time to cut a new plug. Fill the hole in the wall tightly with a capron from an old stocking. With a red-hot nail of a suitable diameter, melt the hole for the screw. The fused nylon will turn into a solid cork.
"A carpenter's level is easy to turn into a theodolite, equipped with a sighting device from a slot and a front sight."
"In order for two strips of linoleum to lie end-to-end, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film, placing it under the base of linoleum."
"To prevent the nail from going in the right direction and not bending when driven into a deep hole or groove, place it inside the tube and secure it with crumpled paper or plasticine."
Before punching a hole in concrete wall, secure a piece of paper just below. Dust and concrete debris will not fly around the room.
"To cut the pipe exactly at right angles, we advise you to do this. Take a straight strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."
"Roll over logs or wooden beams A simple attachment will help - a segment of a motorcycle or bicycle chain, supplemented with a hook on one side and attached to a scrap yoke on the other side. "
"In order for one to be able to work with a two-handed saw, we advise you to use a simple technique: move the saw handle from the top to the bottom."
You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes with a frequency of 2-3 cm along the line of the proposed cut with a nail, and then break off the slate on the support.
" The best way glue the tile to the wall: take bitumen, melt and drip just four drops at the corners of the tile. Sticks on dead. "
Shaped holes in the manufacture of curly window frames are most conveniently cut out with a hacksaw with a turned cloth.
"Making stained glass is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of stained glass. To do this, take thin laths or twigs of a vine, stick to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and cover it with varnish."
"If you don't have a dowel at hand, you can make it from a piece of plastic tubing. The body of a ballpoint pen can also work for this. After sawing off a piece of the desired length, make a longitudinal cut, about half, and the dowel is ready."
"It is known how difficult it is to hang a door working alone. But just shorten the lower pin by 2-3 mm and it will become much easier to work."
"A very strong, non-shrinking and sufficiently waterproof putty is obtained from bustilate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement, sawdust, etc."
"If you need to screw a screw into the end of the chipboard, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (but not epoxy!), Screw the screw in a day. The board does not delaminate. day. "
"It is more convenient to fasten portraits, photographs, paintings in wooden frames with glass not with nails, but with the help of stationery bent at right angles. The buttons are gently pressed with a screwdriver. Compared to nails, the danger of splitting thin frames is minimized."
"It is not so easy to wrap a screw in hard wood. If you poke a hole for the screw with an awl, and rub the screw generously with soap, then after such an operation the work will go like clockwork."
To save time, the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and simple pencil circle the outside border of the Edge. Working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the direction of rolling.
A wire holder with three hooks at the bottom and a handle at the top is convenient for carrying large sheets of plywood, glass, or thin iron at home.
IF you need to cut a round stick into the distance, it is most convenient to do this work using a template. It is made from a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is chosen so that the template slides freely on the stick.
It will become better to work with a hacksaw, and it will be easier if, in its middle part, the height of the teeth is increased by 1/3 of the height of the teeth.
If you attach a load weighing about a kilogram to the front of the bow saw, it will become easier to work. The load must be made removable so that the saw can also perform other work.
“A waxy finish can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. desired color, you need to dilute the glue with water tinted with watercolors. "
"Making a cover for an ax blade is as easy as shelling pears. Take a piece of a rubber tube, cut it lengthwise and put it on the blade. A ring cut from an old car mobile camera protects it from jumping off."
"Do without clamps when gluing wooden frames the laundry cord will help. It is necessary to put on four short loops at the corners of the frame and pull the frames diagonally with two long loops. The corners are adjusted using the sticks that twist the middle loops. "
"How to silence a creaking floorboard? Between the floorboards you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45 ° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, hammer in a wooden pin, greased with wood glue, cut off the protruding end with a chisel and putty on the floor surface."
"To make it easier to scrape a floor covered with varnish or paint, iron it through a damp cloth - and the job will not be easier."
"A slight decay on wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then impregnated with a 10% formalin solution. After drying, the area is putty and painted over."
