House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» DIY scaffolding from a profile pipe. Scaffolding installation rules

DIY scaffolding from a profile pipe. Scaffolding installation rules

Scaffolding- a specific thing and not always necessary. But what if they are so necessary, but there is nowhere to take? Mount it yourself! Before getting to work, it is important to know that scaffolding is created according to the principle frame structure assembled from wood and steel elements. To understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands, the master must decide on their type.

Scaffolding design and their types

Based on the material of production, forests are divided into two types:

  • metal;
  • wooden.

Another criterion for dividing scaffolding into types is the method of fastening structural elements... According to this method, forests are divided into:

  • frame - are considered especially durable, since their main is an all-metal frame;
  • pin - parts of the structure in these scaffolds are attached to each other with a pin;
  • wedge - the structure of such scaffolding is connected by the wedge method;
  • clamping - vertical and horizontal posts are connected by inserts according to the "pipe-to-pipe" method, secured by rotary and non-rotary clamps.

How to collect wood scaffolding

What is needed for the installation of scaffolding

To assemble the scaffolding, which is also called "goat", or "table", you will need the following materials:

  • Nails or self-tapping screws (any, if only there is enough length, except for rusty and bent ones, otherwise the work will turn into sheer torment);
  • Boards (pallets, fences, old furniture, pieces of chipboard, plywood or wooden boards);
  • Bars (any sticks, debris, pieces of metal profiles, tree branches).

Frame making

Drawings will be an excellent assistant for those who mount scaffolding with their own hands. It is on them that it is easiest to assemble the frame. To do this, wooden supports and shoes are fixed on a pre-prepared site, and screw supports are installed if necessary. After that, with a certain step, the frames are mounted. Their number determines the estimated length of the structure. Special frames with borders are installed along the edges. Ladders are mounted on frames for lowering and lifting workers. The whole structure is held together by horizontal and diagonal ties. There are special locks to fix them in the frame.

Assembling the frame

DIY scaffolding

The minimum safe height of the scaffolding is 5-6 m, the width is 50 cm, and their recommended length is 4 m. Based on these figures, the size of the frame and the required amount of material are calculated, whose quality deserves special attention.

In particular, to create the frame, a solid bar with a width of at least 10 cm is chosen. The end strips of the structure are mounted at an acute angle. Two supporting six-meter beams are laid in a horizontal position. The distance between them is the width of the future forests. Nearby, at the same distance, two more six-meter beams are laid. The upper ends of the beams should converge at a slight angle in the form of a trapezoid, this will give stability to future scaffolding.

Side racks are fixed to these beams - the support of future decks. The racks are fixed from the inside, and only three racks are used for the flooring, and the latter serves to strengthen the structure. There should be no more than 4 sidewalls in total, since it is not recommended to erect scaffolding above "four floors".


Preparing additional racks

Installation of flooring

Before making scaffolding, it is necessary to determine the requirements that they must meet. Height can be considered a defining parameter, because the flooring is necessary precisely for working at a certain height.

Installation of flooring

The length of the "goat" depends solely on the dimensions of the materials available. Of course, a table that is too short will be very uncomfortable, especially at high heights. And you need to remember that there may be two people and a bucket of solution on the table.

To achieve the desired width of the flooring, apply the required number of planks. However, if it is made not from boards, but from chipboard, then the increase will be difficult. As for the scaffolding erected indoors, the so-called "goats", then important point will become the width of the available doorways, as well as the presence of other furniture. After all, the "goat" will need to be moved somehow.

The weight factor is one of the most important, because it is inconvenient to haul forests, and even more so heavy ones. Moving them by dragging is another time exposing them to unwanted physical stress. On the other hand, sacrificing height and strength is definitely not worth it.

Not only the health of the builder depends on the strength of the scaffolding, but also the integrity of the walls, floors, and equipment. All that may be near. However, there is no need to load the structure with unnecessary elements. It is far from the fact that they will really add strength. Correctly hammered nails, screwed in screws, and installed lintels are the guarantee of durability.


Well-designed lintels are the foundation of a builder's safety

Timber forests are sustainable if they don't wobble. And it's not just that the employee feels uncomfortable if the table is wobbling. Any furniture breaks for this very reason, including scaffolding. Well-positioned jumpers are the only way to achieve stability.

Wide and long boards are used for flooring, nailing them to the sidewalls. These three planks need to be spread around the edges and in the center of the deck so that it does not sag. By the way, it is more convenient to cut off the excess when the flooring is already assembled - then there will be no need to measure anything. The gaps between the boards reduce the weight of the product. On the other hand, they enable small objects to continually fall to the floor.

When screwing in self-tapping screws, it is necessary to ensure that the boards do not crack. And protruding self-tapping screws are easily broken off with a hammer blow. If the nails turn out to be long, they should be folded through something round - the handle of pliers, for example. In this case, the sharp end of the nail will enter the tree with back side giving extra durability.

Assembling metal scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is much stronger than wood and has a longer service life. However, they take more time and labor to manufacture. A scaffolding scheme is usually used to calculate materials and sizes. Multi-tiered scaffolding is made of aluminum, small structures are made of steel. Steel, unlike aluminum, is more suitable for self-arrangement forests. To build metal scaffolding with your own hands, the master will need:

  • round pipe with a diameter of 15 mm - the basis for future struts;
  • profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - required for the production of racks;
  • profile pipe with a diameter of 25 - connecting jumpers are made from it;
  • fastening materials for metal;
  • "Grinder" - it is used to grind corners and saw pipes;
  • drill and drills.

Preparing struts

The installation of metal scaffolding begins with the preparation of the struts. The 15 mm pipe is cut into two 2 meter pieces. Their ends are flattened. At each end, the "grinder" makes two longitudinal cuts no more than 2 cm.

Then the 30 mm pipe is cut into 1.5 m fragments (the height of one span of the scaffolding). Then, pieces of 0.70 m are cut from the same pipe, intended for lintels between the span posts. The jumpers are installed 35 cm apart. The sizes of all fragments are carefully checked. After the completion of all work, the structure is welded into a single whole using a welding machine.

Manufacturing of adapters

At a further stage, adapters are mounted between the sections. To do this, a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is cut into small pieces of 25 cm, and a pipe with a diameter of 30 mm is cut into even smaller pieces of 5 cm, with their help jumpers will be fixed. A 25 cm segment is threaded into a 5 cm segment to its center. Then it is fixed by welding or self-tapping screws.

For further assembly of the scaffolding, holes for bolts are made at the ends of the jumpers and in the racks. Jumpers are securely fastened between the section posts crosswise, on both sides. Further, with the help of connecting adapters, the next floor of the structure is created.

Assembling the frame

Framed metal scaffolding is able to withstand a pressure of 180-200 kg per square meter. They are made from racks and frames. Such forests are allowed to be erected to a great height - up to 45 meters. Before installing the metal frame, first of all, they are determined with the location of tiers, stairs and other structural elements.

The assembly of the frame begins with the fact that in a previously prepared area, 3 m segments are laid, on which the support boards are laid. On these boards, metal supports are fixed, which form the basis of the initial tier. After the supports are fastened together with iron ties, the next floor is mounted. Each floor is equipped with work surfaces made of boards - flooring. To climb them, the scaffolding is equipped with ladders on the sides.

Section installation

Before arranging the scaffolding, it is necessary to determine the size and location of the sections. In this case, it is imperative to comply with three conditions:

  • the width between the posts is not more than 3 m;
  • the length between the posts is not more than 4 m;
  • the height between floors is no more than 2 m.

The number of sections depends on the size of the wall. The flooring sheet is fixed on the racks with self-tapping screws for metal or clamps. Then horizontal guides (jumpers) are welded to the posts. On the upper ends of the racks "put on" pipe cuttings (adapters) and welded. If a thin-walled pipe is used, then during assembly, its ends and the middle are flattened, and holes are made in these places for fasteners.

Two diagonal strips are tightened with a bolt in the center, then they are applied to the posts and mark points for future holes. Diagonal strips are bolted to the uprights. Then thrust bearings are welded to the ends of the pipes - flat metal plates. After that, the structure is installed in the working position.

Floor making

Decking for metal scaffolding is made according to the same principle as for scaffolding made of wood. The floorings are made from edged boards, 40-50 mm thick, metal sheets are also used.

Painting forests

When erecting forests with their own hands, not everyone thinks about the need to paint them. This is not a prerequisite for their operation. However, a layer of paint will protect the metal from corrosion, and the wood from getting wet and rotting, which will significantly increase the shelf life of the scaffolding.

Building a house is a responsible event that requires a deliberate approach, materials, tools and devices. It is to the latter that scaffolding can be ranked. These constructions serve to make it possible to do Finishing work at high altitude.

Scaffolding allows to carry out the following works at a height of 4 to 10 meters:

  • hem the gables,
  • make siding,
  • install a drain and so on.

In fact, there is more than enough finishing work. Not only that, scaffolding can be made higher than 10 meters, but there is one thing, such a design requires industrial capacity and appropriate engineering knowledge. It is unlikely that you will be able to do it yourself in accordance with all the norms.

Attention ! You should be aware that working on scaffolding involves risks. Therefore, their strength should not be doubted.

Many people decide to make scaffolding with their own hands because renting them is still a very expensive pleasure. Moreover, you have to pay a lot for delivery. Taking into account the fact that finishing work can last about several months, it is more profitable to build a structure yourself.

Choosing a material

Basically, there are only two alternatives. You can make your own scaffolding from metal or wood. Moreover, each option has both its pros and cons.

Let's take metal scaffolding as an example. Making them with your own hands is not so easy. Moreover, it requires special equipment and materials, which will most likely have to be bought. But at the same time, a structure of this type has simply incredible stability and service life. It allows you to do the most complex work at a considerable height.

Advice ! After finishing the work, the metal scaffolding can be rented out. As a last resort, they can be unwound and put in the garage.

If you rely on the experience of people who have come across this issue, then the majority is inclined to believe that metal scaffolding can only be made if you have the necessary metal. The purchase turns out to be quite costly. But if you want to make a business out of it, the costs must pay off.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood is quite simple. In addition, after use, they can be easily disassembled, and the boards, for example, can be burned in a fireplace or stove. In fact, it is a disposable building that is destroyed after one cycle of operation or given to a neighbor.

Of course, in terms of reliability, wooden scaffolding that can be made with your own hands is at times inferior to a metal analogue. But they cost practically nothing. In addition, on each summer cottage can be found suitable materials... Your main tools in this context will be a hammer and nails.

The main disadvantage of wooden scaffolding is their low strength and low stability. Of course, if you do everything soundly, then this design can be used. Therefore, it is so important to follow the instructions exactly.

Attention ! Hand-made wooden scaffolding is rather difficult to preserve, since wood without processing is easily rotting.

Plastic - reality or fiction

Now, more and more often, in construction forums, you can see whole topics dedicated to plastic scaffolding. Of course, they exist and have a lot of important advantages over wood and metal products. But it is not yet possible to manufacture them outside of industrial conditions.

Attention ! Of course, if you have a 3-D printer, you can make your own plastic scaffolding.

Construction of various types of structures

We make wooden scaffolding

it simplest design, which you can do with your own hands in just a day. To end up with a solid and reliable structure, just follow these instructions:

  1. Take a board six meters long and place it against the wall.
  2. Place a second board in parallel.
  3. Fasten them together with crossbars. Make the second support in the same way.
  4. Lay the flooring.
  5. To provide increased rigidity, take diagonal boards. Use the ground as a stop.
  6. Build level by level until you reach a sufficient height.

As you can see, making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is not so difficult, but there are many nuances that need fate. Otherwise, the structure may not stand for several days.

It is very important to make spans of optimal dimensions for the design. The canon is considered to be the distance of two meters between the risers. If necessary, it can be increased to two and a half. The width of the deck is exactly one meter.

One more important nuance in the construction of scaffolding is what fasteners to use. Usually there are only two options: nails and screws. Admittedly, both have their pros and cons.

Take self-tapping screws, for example. At first glance, these are ideal fasteners for making do-it-yourself scaffolding. But not everything is so simple. Their main disadvantage is excessive fragility.

Also, self-tapping screws, with which you can make scaffolding with your own hands, are quite susceptible to shock loads. Their hat just flies off. Naturally, this can lead to complete destruction of the structure.

That's why the best option in order to make scaffolding with your own hands, it will be nails. Moreover, it is best to use 120 mm products. For better fixation, the ends are curved.

The main reason for the brittleness of self-tapping screws is that they are made of hardened metal. That is why, under heavy loads, they often break. Nails are quite another matter. They are based on soft metal. It can bend but not break. That is why, if you want to make scaffolding with your own hands, it is best to use them.

Unfortunately, despite their undeniable merits, nails are not perfect. The main disadvantage of these fasteners is that it will not work neatly to disassemble the structure. We'll have to break it. Naturally, the product cannot be used a second time.

Therefore, experienced builders recommend to all those who decided to make scaffolding with their own hands the basic option to fasten it with self-tapping screws, and fix the final one with nails.

Do-it-yourself metal scaffolding

First, you need to give one important clarification. In this version, the main structure is made of metal, and the flooring is made of wood. This is the optimal combination to achieve high performance.

Attention ! Exclusively metal scaffolding is not made by hand.

Aluminum can be used as the metal for the frame. It has a low weight, so there should be no difficulties with installation. However, it is not able to withstand too heavy loads and this must be taken into account. It is best that each span has the following parameters:

  • width - 100 cm;
  • height - 150 cm;
  • length from 165 to 200 cm.

This is the canon that will provide the necessary stability for a self-made building.

When creating a metal structure, you need to properly prepare, since the quality of materials is of particular importance here, you will need:

  • square profile,
  • pipes for spacers,
  • profile for connecting inserts,
  • floorboards,
  • ladder,
  • connecting elements.

Naturally, you will not be able to limit yourself to materials alone; in order to create the intended project with your own hands, you will also need a number of tools, including:

  • hacksaw for metal,
  • drill,
  • Bulgarian,
  • welding machine.

With this toolkit, you can build your own metal assistive device.

The construction of a scaffold with your own hands begins with tamping the ground where the product will stand. This will provide increased reliability of the entire structure. Moreover, it will not hurt to make a drainage system.

Attention ! The drainage system is essential element if the facades will be finished for a long period of time.

Where the supports will stand, you must place the boards with your own hands. This will provide more stability. In this case, no precaution will be superfluous, since the slightest play can lead to the fact that the scaffolding collapses, and you cannot do anything.

To make scaffolding from shaped pipe do it yourself, follow this algorithm:


To protect the scaffolding from corrosion, a protective coating must be applied. Enough anti-corrosion liquid and special paint.

Outcomes

You can make scaffolding with your own hands. The complexity of the design directly depends on the material that you choose, for example, plastic structures can only be made in an industrial environment. The most simple option is a structure made of wood.

The height of a person is less than the height of the house, therefore, it is impossible to perform wall masonry or facade decoration without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to work safely at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables at hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such fixtures.

They call forests long and high structures. Scaffolds "goats" are usually called low portable tables, which can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay the walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what kind of scaffolding or scaffolding you will need for work. For our part, we will tell you about how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their structures contain elements that are identical in purpose:

  1. Vertical struts (take the workload and transfer it to the ground).
  2. Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
  3. Lintels (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
  4. Flooring (boards knocked down between themselves, serving as a working platform for builders).
  5. Stubborn mows (prevent forests from overturning).
  6. Railings (protects workers from falling).
  7. Ladders (used for lifting and lowering from work sites).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal.. Wooden structure cheaper than steel, but withstands no more than two or three re-assemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but there are no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easy to dismantle and move to a new location. Their design makes it possible to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-rise work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before starting the procurement of parts for assembly, a schematic drawing should be made and the main dimensions of the structure should be put on it.

There is no need to fantasize here, since the construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of the scaffolding:

  • maximum construction height - 6 meters;
  • the distance between the racks is from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
  • working floor width - 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the hands of the builder are 30-40 cm below chest level during work. Therefore, the jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This saves you the hassle of hammering together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the flooring of the second level at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at the level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

  • For cutting racks and thrust braces - a beam with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
  • Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged board "thirty".
  • For the flooring and lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, keep in mind that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling the scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the other hand, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for fracture, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture small forests it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for long and high structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is collected in the following order:

  • on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards, cut "to size" according to the height of the scaffolding;
  • the racks are connected with horizontal jumpers on which the working floor will be laid;
  • the two obtained frames "ladders" are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
  • plank flooring is placed on horizontal lintels and fastened;
  • scaffolding is fixed on two lateral abutment slopes;
  • railings are nailed onto the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for climbing.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide pieces of boards by stuffing them onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before hammering.

Profile pipe scaffolding in their design they are similar to wooden ones. The difference between them lies in the use of adapters. They are used to increase the "number of storeys" of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

  1. Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 sections of 1.5 m and 4 sections of 1 meter).
  2. Thin-walled round tube with a diameter of 20 mm (4 sections of 2 meters for diagonal ties).
  3. Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 sections of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of handrails, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
  4. Steel plates 10x10 cm with a thickness of 2-3 mm (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
  5. 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal braces to each other and attaching them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

  • to the assembly board (OSB sheet) with clamps, the scaffold stands are rigidly fixed (high accuracy when working with metal is a very important factor);
  • horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
  • adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm and fixed by welding;
  • removing the racks with jumpers from the assembly panel, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position they are again fixed to the panel with clamps;
  • ends and middle thin-walled pipes, intended for diagonal stretching, flatten with a hammer and drill holes in them for bolts;
  • tightening two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and mark the places for drilling holes;
  • the ties are fixed to the uprights with bolts and tightened with nuts;
  • holes for bolted connections are drilled on the posts and railings;
  • plates (thrust bearings) are welded to the pipe sections;
  • the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
  • on the side jumpers the flooring is laid from the board "fortieth".

Helpful advice: to prevent the longitudinal displacement of the flooring, steel corners 30x30 mm must be screwed to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties must be fixed on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the build-up of the section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for attaching the profile pipe of the persistent cut, which protects the structure from falling.

At the bottom and top of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when building up the scaffolding in length).

When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at a height, and therefore one cannot do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution is to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you will not have to pay rent and waste time on transporting the structure. They are made of wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.

Scaffolding design and types

Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:

  • support posts;
  • stairs;
  • decks and lintels for him;
  • enclosing railings;
  • stops;
  • horizontal and diagonal braces.

Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all the details are knocked together by nails. At the same time, such scaffolds are not designed for heavy loads, their dismantling takes time, and re-assembly will be less durable, since holes from nails remain in the beams. Forests from metal pipes much stronger, they can be easily extended if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.


Wedge forests

Depending on the fastening methods, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.

Table. Types of forests

Types of forestsDescription
framemetal structures made of vertical frames, fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffolds are lightweight and easy to install.
wedgevery reliable and robust structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders
pinrarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, can withstand very heavy loads, but are too expensive and put a lot of pressure on the ground
yokethey are versatile scaffolding, perfect for buildings with complex geometric shapes. The assembly process is quite laborious, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically

How to collect wood scaffolding

To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there must be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the racks, the width of the flooring is at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding is a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is drawn up.


For work you will need:

  • timber 100x100 mm;
  • boards 30 mm thick;
  • boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
  • nails;
  • hammer;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • Circular Saw.

The wood must be firm and dry, without cracks. Damp wood will make the structure heavier, moreover, after drying, it can deform. Since scaffolding is required only for the construction or decoration of the house, it is not necessary to treat them with antiseptic compounds and do not need to sand.

Step 1. Making the frame


4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m and 2 beams of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: smaller ones along the upper edge, 4-meter ones - along the bottom. You should get two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.

Step 2. Assembling the frame

The frames are raised, installed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with the sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m.Check the location of the sidewalls horizontally building level, and if everything is correct, firmly knock down the frame with nails. The finished structure should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls from a bar.

Step 3. Installation of the flooring

The floorboards must be nailed to the upper cross-bars. It is best to fill them along the width of the frame; boards are laid close, without gaps at the joints. Additional crossbars are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.



Prices for various types of building boards

Construction boards

Assembling metal scaffolding

In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden flooring. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. Steel and aluminum racks are suitable for the manufacture of sections; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section is 1.5 m high, 1 m wide and 1.65 to 2 m long.

For work you will need:


Step 1. Preparing the spacers

Workpieces for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of the horizontal ones is 96 cm, the diagonal ones are 2 m. After that, 6 cm long cuts are made at the ends of the two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the struts to the studs.


Step 2. Making adapters

To build up the scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from shaped pipes: pipes 25x25 mm are cut into pieces with a length of 30 cm, and blanks with a length of 8 cm are cut from pipes 30x30 mm. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to eliminate shifts.

Step 3. Assembling the frame


Two vertical posts are interconnected by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. The resulting frame is in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. Square plates of 70x70 mm are cut out of sheet metal and welded flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the racks of the section will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils, dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.

Step 4. Section installation


Two frames are set vertically opposite one another and diagonal struts are tried on. The attachment points are marked with a marker, then holes for bolts are drilled in the racks and spacers. Connect all parts to each other and check the horizontal level of the upper crossbars with the level. If the design is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to resist on the scaffolding.

Step 5. Making the flooring

Decking boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse decking, bolt on the sides of the structure horizontal pipes at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, boards are taken at least 2 m long, knocked down along the width of the section, reinforced from below with transverse bars from deflection.

To prevent the flooring from moving during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be fixed at its ends along the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark the line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. In the same way, markings are made from the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile with a width of 17-20 mm, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with self-tapping screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now, when the deck is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will prevent the boards from moving.

Step 5. Painting the forests

Metal scaffolds are designed for reusable use, which means they need protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, the frame is covered with corrosion from dampness, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolds, each element should be sanded, wiped off dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring also treated and dyed to protect against moisture and decay.

Prices for poles, shaped pipes

Poles, shaped pipes

Video - DIY scaffolding

When building your home, you can't do without scaffolding. They are needed both when laying walls, and when decorating them, they will be useful when roofing works and installation of a drain. Reliability is the main requirement for scaffolding, because the safety of builders depends on it.

If possible, it is worth renting industrial scaffolding. But if the construction takes a long time, or the finances are very limited, the forests can be made with your own hands. Their design is simple, because private construction rarely requires scaffolding more than two stories high.

It's not worth heavily loading homemade forests, the maximum number of people working on them is two.

Types of scaffolding and their features

Scaffolding can be entirely wooden or made of metal pipes and planks. The former are cheaper and easier to assemble, but withstand less weight. The latter will require a large investment of money and time for construction, but can be used longer, disassembled and rebuilt if necessary. There are 4 types of scaffolding, depending on the design and the fastenings used.

  • Clamps are the most difficult to assemble, but can be configured in a variety of ways to suit a wide variety of buildings.
  • Wedge scaffolding is capable of supporting more weight.
  • Pin scaffolds are quickly disassembled and assembled.
  • Frame scaffolding is economical in construction and light in weight, they are able to withstand a weight of up to 200 kg per square meter of their surface. The maximum height is 50 m. Most suitable for self assembly and use in individual construction.

Design features and materials

Framed scaffolding is erected from steel posts and frames, the flooring is made of wood. Aluminum structures are lighter, but they are also able to withstand less load. Recommended parameters for one section:

  • height - 150 cm,
  • width - 100 cm,
  • length - 165-200 cm.

The number of sections depends on the height of the house and the length of its walls.

To work, you need to stock up on materials. You will need:

  • profile with a square section 3 * 3 cm, 150 cm long for uprights,
  • pipe with a diameter of 15 mm for diagonal and horizontal struts,
  • profile with a square section of 2.5 * 2.5 cm for connecting inserts on which the flooring will rest, and fences,
  • boards 4-5 cm thick and 2-2.5 m long for flooring,
  • for lifting (ready-made can be used, or can be assembled from a profile between the side posts).
  • Bolts with washers and nuts for connecting elements, self-tapping screws for fixing boards.

From the tools you need a hacksaw for metal or a grinder, a drill with a drill for metal, a welding machine. Connections can also be made using special threaded fasteners.

We build scaffolding from pipes and boards

The preparatory stage before assembling the scaffolds is that the plot of land where they will stand is well compacted. So the whole structure will stand more securely. If construction works are carried out in a rainy season, it is possible to provide for a drainage system so that the land under the forests does not erode. Planks are placed in the locations of the supports for greater stability.

Important! Even a slight play in the connections or an insufficiently screwed-on thread can lead to the destruction of the scaffolding and injuries.

The first step is to cut the profile and pipes. The pipe is cut into pieces of 200 cm for diagonal struts and 96 for horizontal ones, which will connect the sides. They are cut from the ends by 7-8 cm and flattened. In these places, they will then be connected to the profile.

The vertical posts are tied with profile segments, making sure that they are located strictly horizontally. Then the horizontal sections of the scaffolding are connected with ties, on which the boards will lie, welding them every 30 cm. Holes for bolts are drilled on the racks and spacers. Racks are level and spacers are attached to them.

To connect several sections of scaffolding, adapters are used. You can make them yourself. Cut off 8-10 cm of a profile with a section of 3 * 3 cm, thread sections of a profile with a section of 2.5 * 2.5 cm into it and connect them by welding.

Boards are laid on horizontal screeds and fixed with self-tapping screws. For scaffolding you can paint.