The need to insulate the attic to ensure a comfortable atmosphere in the house in winter is unlikely to be disputed by anyone. But for some reason about ventilation in order to maintain consistency temperature regime many people forget. Meanwhile proper ventilation attic not only maintains the constancy of the microclimate, but also helps to increase the life of the roof, prevents the appearance of foci of mold and mildew. Well thought-out ventilation is just as important as good thermal insulation.
Ventilation is an important design step to regulate heat transfer. In summer, the roof heats up to 160 degrees, and the stinging air enters the house. But this is not the only cause for concern. In the cool period, condensation accumulates on the insulated ceilings, destroying the tree. Airing will help to avoid premature wear of the rafters.
The ventilation system is aimed at mixing the temperature of the external environment and the roof and prevents the appearance of ice, huge icicles and an avalanche during the melting of snow. As you can see, the issue of arranging a reliable air exchange system is really important.
The attic can be cold and warm. The first option is traditional. In this case, the rafter system is not protected in any way, since only the floor is insulated. The second is an echo of the Soviet period, with the sole purpose of protecting engineering communications.
Ventilation in cold attics should be controlled. To do this, it is necessary not to close the crate and rafters. An alternative can be a lining with gaps to ensure unhindered air circulation. If ondulin or slate is laid on the roof (in the absence of wind and vapor barrier films), you do not need to worry - the air freely penetrates between the waves of the roof inside the attic and goes out.
It is important!
The metal tile is also ventilated, but condensation can form, which means that the film flooring becomes mandatory.
If the roof is gable, then the ventilation ducts are located in the gables. A rather effective solution is a loose sewing of wooden overhangs. The even distribution of narrow gaps helps to effectively ventilate the entire attic.
However, if the abutments and lining fit tightly or the gables are made of stone, then holes must be made in the walls. They should be on opposite sides, which will help eliminate stagnant foci.
It is important!
The total area of ventilation ducts is calculated based on 0.2% of the total floor area.
There is also a more economical option - the installation of standard ventilation grilles. One grid should be adjustable, the other turned with holes down. A mosquito net will protect against insects.
For hip roof the arrangement of ventilation will take place according to a different scenario. The entrance hole is made from the bottom (in the filing), and the exit is from the top, at the ridge. If the filing of the overhangs is made of wood, then the beams can be placed not quite tightly, with an interval of several millimeters. When suturing with plastic, the individual components must have holes. Such panels are called spotlights.
But what if the binder is already assembled and tightly assembled? There is also a way out of this situation - the release of gratings with a mesh with a diameter of 5 cm. They are usually located along the length of the wind overhang with a step of 80 cm. To make holes, you will need a drill with a round drill. The top output is made from the top. Please note that a lot will depend on the type of roof.
For flexible roof install a valve (turtle) or a ventilated ridge. For slate and euro-slate - a classic hobbyhorse. For ceramic tiles - a special valve. The metal tile is allowed to be ventilated by means of a standard ridge. It should be noted that the ridge is not only a financially profitable replacement for a valve, but also an opportunity to equip ventilation system in the shortest possible time.
Some people practice the installation of dormer windows (you can glaze, or you can put gratings on them), but such a task is difficult to implement and requires theoretical and practical training.
Natural circulation in heating systems today it is practically not used. This means that when planning the conversion of an attic into residential attic the roof should be completely ventilated. For sheet metal and shingles, it is necessary to equip a ventilated area - sew on a counter-rail on the rafters. For metal roofs windscreens are preferred. For a slate roof, counter-rails are not necessary, because the air must pass freely from bottom to top. The entrance is done in a filing, and the exit is through the skate.
The attic will be ventilated in the same way as other rooms. Air enters through the windows (installation of VTK valves is allowed), exits through the ventilation holes. If they are not in the walls, then aerators (fungi) are installed on the roof (at the place of the hood).
The problem of ventilation in the attic space has given rise to many myths. So what facts do you need to know to ensure proper ventilation?
Myth number 1. Warm air escapes from the room through the ventilation ducts in winter... It is widely believed that ventilation in winter period interferes with heating. However, it is unlikely that holes are involved. If the house heats up for a long time and cools down quickly, then the problem is insulation, not ventilation. It is worth noting that poor-quality insulation always lets humid air into the attic, which creates favorable conditions for condensation and subsequent decay of wooden floors.
Myth number 2. Ventilation is required only during hot seasons... Many are convinced that the ventilation system is only necessary to provide ventilation of the building in the summer. Actually this is not true. Insufficient ventilation in winter is the reason for the growth of icicles, the appearance of mold and mildew.
Myth number 3. Square ventilation holes doesn't matter... And again delusion. Relying on chance, placing the channels by eye, of course, is not worth it. The efficiency of such ventilation will be zero. The air is placed in a ratio of 1: 500 (where for every 500 m2 there is 1 m2 of ventilation).
Now you know not just how to equip ventilation with your own hands, but how to do it correctly and avoid the most common mistakes. And this is the most important thing!
The main task of the ventilation system in the attic is to remove moisture. Condensation build-up leads to injury building materials mold and mildew, rotting, first on the roof itself, then inside the premises.
Proper ventilation is a guarantee of a long service life rafter system, a favorable microclimate in the house and the absence of ice on the roofing in the cold season.
How to properly equip ventilation in the attic with your own hands, what should be the holes for air exchange and how to arrange them, read this review.
Air exchange in the under-roof space is important at any time of the year. In the summer, ventilation helps to avoid overheating of the house from being hot in the heat. roofing, especially if the latter is made of metallic materials.
In winter, warmth and moisture emanating from the house contribute to the formation of frost and, as a result, dampness. This problem cannot be avoided without intensive ventilation.
If, in addition to the lack of ventilation, the heat-insulating layer is not properly made, in winter the roof can heat up to above-zero temperatures, leading to thawing of the lower layer of snow and the formation of an ice crust and icicles during the thaw period.
On a note! According to building codes, the temperature under the roof should be no more than 4 ° C higher than the outside temperature.
Without air exchange in the space under the roof, the microclimate throughout the house is disturbed: on sunny summer days, living quarters will quickly heat up, and from autumn to spring, condensation will accumulate under the sheathing. Accordingly, without the release of steam, which is formed as a result of the vital activity of the inhabitants of the house, the humidity will rise in the rooms as well.
But the main danger of the lack of air exchange is that the wooden elements of the roof will wear out much faster than the period allotted to them. Moisture contributes to the accelerated process of decay, fungal and mold damage.
Therefore, ventilation of the roof space is indispensable. In addition, it is important that the air exchange is efficient.
What you need to consider when arranging ventilation in the attic:
The most difficult stage of the work is the calculations. Too many or too large air vents are just as bad as insufficient air space. This task is best left to specialists.
Important! To protect the grating and rafters from condensation and leaks, a vapor and waterproof layer should be laid.
Ventilation in a cold attic can be done in a variety of ways. In this case, all possible options are suitable:
For gable roof all ventilation methods are suitable. The simplest and most effective is based on the natural movement of air masses due to the difference in temperature and pressure at different heights.
On the eaves of the roof, sheathing is made of wooden slats, leaving gaps between them, or soffits are used - perforated siding made of metal or PVC.
If the cladding is made close to each other and does not have holes for ventilation, it is possible to arrange air vents under the cornices in the form of ordinary grilles mounted every 90 cm. Air outlet occurs through the vents in the ridge. And also point aerators are used.
Another simple and inexpensive option is the installation of grilles (windows) on the gables. The optimal size of windows for - 60x80 cm. When choosing their location, one should adhere to an equal distance from the ridge, overhang and sides of the house. There should be two lattices - one each from opposite gables.
Dormer windows are the most difficult way to ventilate the roof space. But such a ventilation window in the attic will serve as both a natural source of light and an exit to the roof.
For normal air exchange under a hip roof without gables, spotlights and ridge skates with openings for air inlet and outlet and air vents in the roof in the form of dormer windows located on opposite sides of the building are suitable.
In a cold attic with a cladding made of ondulin, metal tiles, corrugated board or slate, ventilation of the ridge is provided by the space between the waves of material, so there is no need to equip it additionally.
Note! Forced ventilation (fan installation) is needed in rare cases when the natural movement of air is impeded.
If ventilation pipes are installed in an unheated attic, then over time they can become clogged with frost, reducing efficiency to zero. Therefore, the insulation of ventilation pipes is an obligatory step.
It is best to use foil insulation. And outside, you need to equip the pipes with gratings or diffusers so that debris and insects do not get into them.
Ventilation of a warm attic in a private house is more difficult to equip. Air movement in the under-roof space is possible only between the rafters. Therefore, it is necessary to resolve the issue of ventilation even at the stage of construction of the attic. A space of 2-3 cm should be left between the layer of waterproofing and thermal insulation. What additional layers roofing cake must be used, depends on the material with which the warm attic is sheathed. Ventilation under the shingles requires the installation of a counter batten. The metal sheathing must be supplemented with a layer of windproof film.
Ventilation of the attic above the attic is provided according to a similar principle: inlets - spotlights - on the overhang, weekend on skates.
Holes on the skates, cornice must be placed along the entire length in order to ventilate the entire roof, preventing air and steam from stagnating in separate spaces.
The attic itself is ventilated just like any other living space. Air from outside comes in through a window or supply valve, comes out through the ventilation pipe together with excess moisture.
If it is not possible to install ventilation windows in the attic, you can mount ridge or pitched aerators. They are point and continuous.
A point aerator is a device consisting of a pipe and a "cap", otherwise the device is called a diffuser. It is designed to remove moist and stagnant air from the under-roof space of the attic to the street by creating low pressure... Installed on the roof slope, no more than 50 cm from the ridge or on the ridge itself.
Continuous eaves aerators are installed along the entire length of the roof and provide even better air exchange.
After installing the aerator, the joints of the device and the holes must be sealed. For this, a special tape is used.
An important plus of aerators is that they can be installed even if the roof is completed.
Ventilation in the attic should not be neglected. It is very simple to make it, like using traditional methods and using modern technologies... High-quality air exchange in the under-roof space can extend the life of the building and maintain a favorable microclimate in residential premises.
Ventilation of the roof space is necessary to create a balanced microclimate under the roof. It is also vital for the correct and long-term use of the entire under-roof structure. There are many ventilation solutions on the market today. The most effective and common ways of how to do this, we will consider here.
Competently equipped with your own hands ventilation of the attic allows you to eliminate the condensation that appears on the elements of the roofing cake. During ventilation, an air flow is provided, which precisely removes residual moisture. By removing this moisture, the service life of all wooden structures, which the roofing cake is very rich in.
In addition, there are two more seasonal features for airing:
First of all, they provide air flow, usually in the eaves of the roof. To make ventilation of the attic with your own hands, in most cases, perforated soffits are used. They are installed in the lower part of the eaves of the roof, and the perforation allows air currents to penetrate unhindered, but delays the possible entry of various insects.
Soffits combine proper decorativeness and functionality, which has made them the most popular solution for air supply to attic.
Attic ventilation in a private house also needs air outflow. For this there are the following elements:
The roof along the entire perimeter must have a ventilation gap of at least 40-50 mm. This distance often ensures the width of the battens of the sheathing, which allows air to circulate freely under the roof. This method, for example, is suitable for roofs made of metal, corrugated board or ondulin. The shape of these roofing materials allows air to pass underneath with ease and provide ventilation.
The area of the ventilation ducts should be 0.2% of the total area of the ventilated room.
Using soft materials for the roof, the counter-lattice is not made solid, but with breaks. This allows the air to bypass the most problematic and difficult areas of the under-roof pie..
In the most problematic areas of the roof, for example, for valleys or hips, point ventilation is required, which is provided by aerators or turbines.
Ventilation of a cold attic can be easily done by hand. This will require knowledge of a little theory and some practical skills. Providing adequate ventilation in a cold attic will not pose any particular difficulties due to the large air volume and the absence of obstacles to normal air circulation. Air exchange can be carried out through the eaves, ridge and ridge of the roof, as well as gable windows and grilles.
For gable roofs, ventilation of cold attics is done either through the gables or through a loose-fitting wooden filing eaves... If the gables are made of stone, then holes can be made in them for dormer windows with ventilation grilles.
Dormers should be installed on opposite sides to ensure adequate ventilation of the attic.
There is also an alternative, more economical option... To do this, install the standard ventilation grates(pediment vents), one of them being adjustable, and the other turned downward with the vents. To protect against insects, such a grill is equipped with a protective mosquito net.
Hip roofs do not have gables due to the peculiarities of the shape of their design, therefore, for them there is another option for providing ventilation in the attic - with the help of eaves. The air will flow through the roof sheathing and exit from the top of the ridge. If the filing is made of wood with your own hands, then small gaps are left between the bars for the passage of air. When sheathing the cornice with plastic soffits, such a procedure is optional, due to the presence of pre-made holes on the elements - perforations.
The air is discharged from above, through the ridge of the roof. Its design features depend on the type of roofing material used. As a rule, any manufacturer of roofing materials has their own ready-made and practical solutions.!
Endows (gutters) are one of the problematic and difficult sections of the roof. To make normal ventilation of the attic space, point aerators are placed along the passage of the valley. However, this method is acceptable for roofs with a slope angle of 45 ° or more.... On sloping roofs there is a high probability of snow accumulation in the valley area and therefore such ventilation becomes ineffective in winter time... You can deal with this by setting forced ventilation- inertial turbines, electric roof fans or use high nozzles that will not be covered with snow.
The ventilation of a warm attic (attic) is more difficult. The ventilation layers run between the rafters. Space for ventilation between the bottom surface of the waterproofing and thermal insulation material should be at least 20-30 mm.
If it is used as a heat insulator, then it is necessary to take into account its future increase in volume by 10-30% of the original state.
If the depth of the rafters is not enough to provide the required gap between the heat insulator and the waterproofing, then their height is increased using boards or slats. But, as you know, this ventilation method is quite difficult to perform for roofs with complex shapes. Therefore, in recent years, experts have given preference to diffusion (vapor-permeable) membranes, which can be mounted directly on the insulation and pass moisture in only one direction.
From the author: hello dear readers! Having lived for a couple of years in a private house, many owners decide to install ventilation in the attic, primarily due to the appearance bad smell and dampness. In the article we will tell you how to make your own ventilation for a cold attic in a private house.
The attic in a private house must be equipped with a ventilation system. This fact is important for the premises at any time of the year.
In summer, the heat from the hot roof passes into the room and sometimes heats it up to 150 degrees. The main part of the heat is distributed at the top, and the air conditioner operates in an enhanced mode. And in its absence, the owners of the house are forced to suffer from stuffiness and heat.
In winter, ventilation helps to remove accumulated moisture. According to technical safety requirements, the temperature in the attic and outside should differ by no more than 4 degrees, since sharp temperature drops create favorable conditions for the accumulation of condensate, which subsequently forms icicles. With the onset of a thaw, they melt, and moisture enters the floor, which leads to deformation and destruction of the ceiling structure and roof, appears on the rafters.
Despite the importance of ventilation, many owners are afraid to install it, because they think that warm air escapes through the grates in the attic, and the room cools faster. In fact, the reason lies in the poor-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling and walls, moreover, moisture penetrates into the attic through poorly insulated ceiling ceilings.
Important: ventilation of the cold attic of a hip or hip roof is needed, most often, only in the summer.
The ventilation grilles of the attic of a private house play an important role in thermoregulation. At competent installation they will save on heating, provide the required degree of cooling and protect the room from negative external influences. In addition to all of the above advantages, attic ventilation prevents winter precipitation from accumulating on the roof of the building.
Unhindered air circulation from the street under the roof space is possible due to the holes, the most effective of which are located under the overhang and in the ridge. This arrangement allows the use of the air-heat head emanating from the ceiling area.
If the ventilation of the attic is installed according to all the rules, within an hour, the air flow passes twice under the roof of the room - the movement is directed from the bottom up to the ridge with holes from the vents.
Advice: if there is an insulated roof between the roof and insulating layer leave a gap of about 5 cm wide for free air exchange.
To ensure a high-quality hood, a combination of installed ridge elements and air vents in the ridge itself is necessary. For tile roofs, special tiles with air exchange vents are used.
There is another way to ventilate the attic - installing ventilation turbines (deflectors) for mechanical traction. This kind the unit is recommended for ventilation of the insulated attic above the attic.
A source: growinggarden.ru
Important: when installing ventilation, you need to pay attention to the slope of the roof. Ridge vents, covered with snow, can be replaced with pipes that exceed the height of the snow cover.
The oldest known in the attic is the ventilation window. For good air exchange, sub-eaves and ridge vents, as well as dormers, are enough. Hip roof is assumed in the absence of gables. In this case, there is no room for ventilation windows, and such attics are ventilated with eaves and ridge vents.
The situation is more complicated with attic ventilation under the attic. In this case, the role of the air is played by the cracks in the interroof space. Required element such a roof is a mechanical traction device. The ventilation outlet is located in the columns.
Skylights can be installed in the attic without the installation of a ventilation system and air exchange vents. However, this method is not effective enough, since the air can stagnate in the window sill and above the window space.
To improve ventilation and reduce the level of stagnant air, it is recommended to make dormer windows measuring 60 × 80 cm, placing them in opposite gables. You can find out how to do it yourself by watching the video .
In theory, it looks like this: for pre-made wooden frames, which are attached to the rafters with special racks, fit roofing material... Ordinary lining is suitable for finishing openings. Then a window box is mounted in the opening. In this case, the gaps between the roof and the frame itself are tightly closed.
Installation rules for ventilation windows:
Air vents are openings for air exchange of a cold or warm attic. They are in the roof and are the only possible way ventilation of the attic without dormer windows.
There are two types of products: cornice or ridge. Eaves are located on both sides of the eaves and, in fact, are a gap between the wall and the roof, the width of which is about 2 cm. They are called slotted. The vents made in the form of holes are called point vents. The width and diameter of the vents should be no more than 2.5 cm, depending on the slope of the slopes.
The ridge vents have a slit shape up to 5 cm wide or a weather vane shape with intervals not exceeding 8 meters. This type of vents is also used in tile coverings, with holes through one row from the ridge.
The vents for the upper layer of the roof are made in the form of a retracted roof outlet, aerators or a gable grille. All these elements can be purchased along with the rest of the building material.
The roofing aerator is by far the most convenient and modern look ventilation ducts. Aerators provide good air exchange by removing excess moisture, steam and stagnant air in the cold attic of a private house; they are installed on roof slopes, replacing the ridge counterparts.
Aerators are point, with built-in fans to ensure proper air circulation, and continuous (ridge), which is a plate with holes along the ridge. The latter are covered with a roof from above. They provide constant air exchange and are unobtrusive.
A source: allremont59.ru 
A source: stroydom.guru
All types of roof aerators are made from:
Aerators are usually installed in places with curtain air vents. But there are other options for their placement:
Before starting the installation of attic ventilation, it is recommended to make accurate calculations. Only a specialist can give a guarantee of the result. But if you nevertheless decide to calculate and carry out the installation yourself, our recommendations and advice will undoubtedly help you.
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Of course, insulation of the attic is simply necessary to make the building cozy and comfortable in winter (in more detail: ""). No less important is the ventilation of the attic in a private house, as in the photo. Good ventilation prevents the formation of mold and mildew and extends the life of the roof.
Ventilation allows you to regulate heat transfer. In summer, the roof heats up to over 100 degrees, which makes the house very hot. And in cool weather, condensation forms in the attic - many owners of private houses do not know what to do. Due to the accumulation of condensation on the insulated ceilings, the tree begins to collapse. But in order for it not to form, you just need to make good ventilation at.
The ventilation system mixes the temperature of the roof and the external environment, due to which frost and huge icicles are not formed. This not only contributes to the creation of a comfortable microclimate in the house, but also prolongs the life of the rafter system.
There are widespread myths about ventilation in the attic. You need to know about them in order not to make mistakes when creating ventilation.
On gable roof ventilation ducts are placed in the gables. Good decision is a loose fit of the sewing of wooden overhangs. If you distribute narrow gaps evenly, the attic will be more efficiently ventilated. But if the gables are made of stone or the stitching and fit are tight, you need to make holes in the walls (read also: ""). They should be located on opposite walls. The total area of the ventilation ducts is calculated on the basis that they should occupy 0.2% of the floor area.
You can also make air vents in the attic in a more economical way - install standard ventilation grilles. One grid must be turned with the holes down, and the other made adjustable. To prevent insects from entering the attic, a mosquito net is installed.
For a hip roof, ventilation is created using a different technology. The entrance hole is made in the filing, at the bottom, and the exit at the ridge, at the top. If the overhangs are made of wood, the beams can be loosely placed, keeping a few millimeters apart. If the lining is plastic, holes must be present - these panels are called soffits.
Many are interested in how to make ventilation in the attic if it is tightly assembled. For such situations, gratings with a mesh with a diameter of 5 centimeters are available. They are usually placed at a distance of 80 centimeters from each other along the length of the overhang. To make holes, you need a drill with a round drill. The topmost conclusion is made outward.
Much depends on the type of roof. For slate and euro-slate, a classic ridge is installed, for a flexible roof - a turtle (valve). A ceramic roof requires a special valve. The device of a cold attic under a metal roof allows for ventilation with a conventional ridge. It is not only a financially beneficial substitute for a valve. The ridge also allows you to create a ventilation system in a short time.
Sometimes they make a dormer ventilation window in the attic (you can glaze it or put gratings), but this method of creating ventilation is more complicated, and good practical and theoretical training is required to implement the plan.
Natural circulation is practically not used in modern heating systems. Ventilation of the attic above the attic is simply necessary for a comfortable stay in the room. Thus, when rebuilding an attic into an attic, you need to make the roof ventilated. For shingles and sheet metal, a ventilated area is created - a counter-rail is sewn onto the rafters. For metal roofs, it is better to use windproof films. Slate roof strips are optional, as air must circulate freely from bottom to top.
As for why condensation accumulates in the attic, this is due to poor ventilation. This affects the microclimate of the house, and also causes mold and premature destruction of the roof.
Creating effective ventilation in the attic is not an easy task, but without this, comfort in the house should not be expected. Good ventilation of the room will prevent mold and prolong the life of the roof.
