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The most common option for the construction of private houses is gable roof, assembled with your own hands from the Mauerlat to the ridge. Below in this article you will find drawings and photos, and a detailed step-by-step instruction will help you figure them out. You will also learn about how high the ridge should be and how it depends on the functionality. attic space, learn to calculate thickness and pitch rafter system.
Classic gable roof
The main types of roofs for private houses
In order to clearly imagine what a gable roof is, look at what other options are used in the construction of private houses. And that's not all, but the most popular are:
For a rectangular house with an area of 60 to 100 m2, the option with two slopes can be called the most suitable - it is simple to perform and inexpensive to implement. In addition, there you can equip not only an attic, but also an attic.
Now let's figure out how to build a gable roof system in a private house. There are several stages in this process, and we will consider each of them separately.
You may not use formulas for the calculation if you do not make roofs in the future and just download the program (http://srub-banya.by/programs/raschet_stropil.exe). Opening the downloaded file, you will be taken to a page with a menu - it is located in the horizontal line at the top.
Main acting loads:
In addition to the main loads, there are also secondary or "default" ones, these are:
Values:
The slope of the slope is expressed in degrees and is indicated by the symbol α (alpha). To determine the value of α, you need to divide the height H by half the span L. Below is a table with the results of determining the main slopes.
In cases where:
Distribution of snow loads in Russia
The map shows eight snow regions, and the Sg value for each is calculated in kPa, converted to kg / m2:
For the map given above, Appendix 5 of SNiP 2.01.07-85 "Loads and Impacts" is mandatory. And now we will make a trial calculation for Ivanovo (this is the IV region on the map), the value is 240 kg / m².
Means: H / L = 2.5 / 3.5 = 0.714
According to the table, α = 35⁰. Considering that 30 °<α<60°, вычисление µ делаем по формуле µ = 0,033·(60-α)=0,033*(50-35)=0,825. Следовательно, S=Sg*µ=240*0,825=198 кг/м², что и есть максимально возможной снеговой нагрузкой.
On steep roofs, where α> 30 °, the slopes have a large windage. On flat roofs, where α< 30° увеличена турбулентность.
The average value of the wind load Wm at a height Z above the ground surface is calculated by the formula Wm = Wo * K * C.
In this formula, the meaning is;
Wind loads on the territory of the former USSR
Wind pressure standards by region
Coefficient value
Let's make a conditional calculation ... The aerodynamic coefficient C can be from -8, when the wind blows the roof up to +0.8 with a large windage (the wind presses on the slope). Taking into account the conventionality of the calculation, take C = 0.8.
In the same Ivanovsky district we take a house, where h = 6m (α = 35⁰). This is region II, where Wo = 30 kg / m², the coefficient is less than 10, so K = 1.0. Therefore: Wm = Wo * K * C = 30 * 1 * 0.8 = 24 kg / m².
Roof weight varies depending on material
The mass of all components
A conditional calculation for the same house for cement-sand tiles will be:
And here is the calculation for the lightest roofing material, metal:
In this case, we will be guided by GOST 24454-80 for conifers.
| Section width (by board thickness), B | Section height (across the board width), H | ||||||||
| 16 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | — | — | — | — | — |
| 19 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | — | — | — | — |
| 22 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | — | — |
| 25 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 32 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 40 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 44 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 50 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 60 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 75 | 75 | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 100 | — | 100 | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | 275 |
| 125 | — | — | 125 | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | — |
| 150 | — | — | — | 150 | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | — |
| 175 | — | — | — | — | 175 | 200 | 225 | 250 | — |
| 200 | — | — | — | — | — | 200 | 225 | 250 | — |
| 250 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | 250 | — |
We take an arbitrary section width and determine the height:
H ≥ 8.6 * Lmax * √ (Qr / (B * R bend)), where the slope α< 30°,
H ≥ 9.5 * Lmax * √ (Qr / (B * R bend)), where R bend e slope α> 30 °.
Values:
For softwood lumber R-bend:
Now let's check whether the deflection is within the standard, which for all materials under load should not exceed the value L / 200 (L is the length of the working leg section). The indicator should correspond to the inequality: 3.125 * Qr * (Lmax) ³ / (B · H³) ≤ 1.
Meaning:
We are counting on the same house in Ivanovo, taking into account the conditions, where:
In the table above we have calculated that with such materials the total load is Q = 303 kg / m².
As a result, we got a cross-section of rafters for erecting a roof of 50 × 175 mm with a step of 80 cm.
Mauerlat on a brick wall
To build a gable roof yourself, you cannot do without a Mauerlat, which is the basis of the rafter system. If we are talking about a residential building, then a bar with a cross section from 50 × 150 mm to 150 × 200 mm is usually used for it (the thicker the wall, the larger the cross-section of the bar in width). The board or timber is mounted on load-bearing walls and fixed with anchors. If we consider that the Mauerlat will withstand the entire rafter system with associated loads, then its installation will directly affect the mechanical strength of the entire roof. Below is a video showing how the Mauerlat is installed on the walls of a block house.
Video: Installing Mauerlat
Rafter legs are easier to assemble on the ground
It is most convenient to assemble such a structure as rafters (2 legs plus additional elements) on the ground, as in the photo above, and not on the roof, so that later it can be lifted with blocks or just ropes, but this is not a requirement. Above, you could find out how to make the calculations of such a system, taking into account all the loads, therefore, you already know what section of the boards you need, what the height of the ridge and the step size will be. At the top of the boards are joined "on the mustache", and the ridge beam is installed only after the installation of the extreme rafters.
System without overhang, where the legs are fixed with different fasteners
Overhang systems also have different fasteners.
Above you can see two diagrams showing rafter systems without an overhang and with an overhang, but the most important thing is to pay attention to the method of fastening, or rather, to the fastening itself. This can be a steel corner (preferably reinforced), short stacks, tightening boards, nails, screws and staples. This is a very important point, since during turbulence, the roof can undermine, and under lateral load, overturn, although the result in both cases will be equally deplorable. After installing the side rafters, the ridge beam is fixed, checking each leg with a vertical level.
Watch the video, which explains some of the nuances of editing, but do not forget that each master may have his own methods, and if you hear or see inconsistencies with your ideas, then this is quite normal.
Video: Installation of the rafter system
Installation of ceramic tiles
Further work on the construction of the rafter system depends on what is provided in the attic and what kind of roofing material will be used. For example, if you want to equip an attic there, then it is quite natural that you cannot do without insulation and waterproofing. Also, a certain role will be played by the heating system, or rather, the presence or absence of a chimney, as well as ventilation.
Depending on the choice of roofing material, the sheathing is made. That is, it can be intermittent, as in the top photo, or solid, if you decide to make a roof of shingles. Also, for roofs, it is sometimes provided for the installation of a heating cable against icing, and it can be mounted not only from the outside, but also from the inside, laying it under the roof.
I hope you figured out how to make a gable roof with your own hands - the most important thing is the correct calculations of the step, the section of the rafter legs and the slope. If you are interested in certain points, such as Mauerlat fastenings, rafters or roofing work, then these are topics for separate articles, which you can also familiarize yourself with on our website.
Before starting to study the material on how to build a roof of a house with your own hands, it is important to better become familiar with the design features of each type of roof. So, the basic requirements for the roof structure are as follows:
Depending on the design, the following types of roofing are distinguished:
If everything is more or less clear with a flat roof, then with a pitched roof, the situation should be clarified. First of all, arranging a roof with an attic space has many advantages.:
Let's consider in more detail how to properly build a roof of a house with your own hands, while obtaining the highest quality version of the roof.
The practical advice and methods of work indicated here are of a recommendatory nature and can be adjusted in each individual case, taking into account external conditions.
The roof slope is selected from the following conditions:
The main structural element of the roof is the rafter system, which bears almost all the load created by the roof. It consists of the following structural elements:
The following roofing layers are laid on top of the supporting structure:
Any roof must have increased mechanical strength in order to withstand its own weight and the effects of external atmospheric influences (snow, rain, wind gusts).
Roof installation, as a rule, begins with the installation of a Mauerlat (support bar), which is attached to the wall using special anchors or wire. After the installation of the Mauerlat is completed, they begin to install the rafters, the cross-section of which is selected based on the following conditions:
The upper end of the rafters is overlapped, with overlays or attached to the ridge beam. To increase the stability and reliability of the structure, struts are arranged between the girders and the posts. The timber for the execution of rafters must be treated with special chemical compounds that prevent premature decay. To connect the rafters to each other, special nails and bolts are used. Before screwing in the bolts, the wood is pre-drilled, which makes it much easier to fasten the roofing components together.
Among a wide variety of roofing materials, the following materials compare favorably with their performance characteristics:
After the installation of the rafter system is completed, a counter-lattice is nailed to it, designed to increase the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe roof covering and provide a gap between the thermal insulation and waterproofing. This ventilation gap makes it possible to remove water condensate from under the insulation, which negatively affects the entire structure during the operation of the roof. From above, the counter-lattice is covered with a waterproofing layer, which is laid with a margin in case of thermal expansion. Waterproofing allows steam to pass from the room into the insulation, but prevents moisture from entering the room.
After the installation of the waterproofing layer is completed, a transverse crate is fixed on the rafters, on which, in fact, the roofing material will be held. The lathing is made from a bar, which is fastened perpendicular to the rafters. When choosing some materials, a continuous lathing may be required (bitumen roll roofing, flat slate, sheet steel, and others). In this case, OSB boards or plywood with moisture resistant properties are used, which are laid with a gap. This ensures optimal operating conditions and compensation for thermal expansion of materials.
When laying roofing materials, adhere to the direction from right to left and from bottom to top. The materials are laid directly on the lathing. Each individual type of roof has its own fastening methods: for example, bituminous tiles are laid with nails and special glue, slate and metal tiles - with long nails.
After installing roofing materials and waterproofing, you can safely proceed to the procedure for laying thermal insulation materials. In this capacity, it is best to use materials of natural origin: mineral wool or organosilicon boards. Insulation materials of non-natural origin are used: polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, penoizol. There are options for ecological insulation with straw, algae, sawdust, etc. A layer of insulation is laid with an overlap, due to which the degree of thermal conductivity decreases several times.
One of the important elements of the internal arrangement of the roof is vapor barrier, which allows you to get reliable protection against condensation, which will necessarily form at the insulation interface. Today, the most popular vapor barrier material is reinforced film, which has attractive performance parameters and an acceptable cost.
When installing a vapor barrier, special attention should be paid to adjoining external walls, pipelines and high-quality gluing of various pieces of vapor-proof material to each other.
A rather popular arrangement is a pitched roof with an attic, which allows you to significantly expand the living area and effectively use the available space. When building a roof with an attic, attention should be paid to the issues of high-quality insulation and lighting. In order to obtain comfortable conditions in an attic-type attic, preliminary installation of heat-insulating materials with low thermal conductivity is performed. Absolutely all planes bordering the environment are subject to insulation.
The issue of the choice of roofing materials also remains important, since the roof made of metal tiles heats up pretty much in the summer, thereby creating uncomfortable living conditions in the attic. This, in turn, entails additional costs for ventilation, air conditioning and thermal insulation, so it is very important to think over all the features of the construction of the future attic and its intended purpose. A correctly and well-built attic can become a full-fledged living space, which will be ideal for multipurpose use.
The final stage in the construction of the roof should be the installation of a drainage system, which will direct precipitation in the required direction and protect the blind area and walls of the building from additional harmful effects of moisture.
The drainage system must cover the entire roof surface and have the highest possible productivity, affecting the drainage of water in the required direction and quantity. Modern building codes take into account the operation of the drainage system in the winter, for which an additional heating system is installed, which helps to melt snow and ice on the roof surface. With a great desire and free time, the question of how to build a roof of a house with your own hands can be resolved in the shortest possible time. To do this, it will be enough to have basic skills of independent work with locksmith and woodworking tools.
We offer you to see how to build a roof of a house with your own hands, a video on how to do it and organize it correctly.
A gable roof or gable roof is a roof with two slopes, i.e. having 2 inclined surfaces (slopes) of a rectangular shape.
The gable roof frame, due to its design features, ideally combines ease of installation and maintenance with reliability and durability. These and many other parameters make the construction of a gable roof a practical and rational solution for private and commercial housing construction.
As part of this article, we will consider how to make a gable roof rafter system with your own hands. For effective perception of the material, it is presented in the form of step-by-step instructions from A to Z, from selection and calculations, to the installation of the Mauerlat and the lathing under the roof. Each stage is accompanied by tables, diagrams, drawings, pictures and photos.
The popularity of the roof with a house is due to a number of advantages:
Installation of a gable roof truss system depends, first of all, on its design.
There are several options for gable roofs (types, types):
The most common version of the roof device due to its simplicity and reliability. Thanks to symmetry, an even distribution of loads on the load-bearing walls and the Mauerlat is achieved. The type and thickness of the insulation do not affect the choice of material.
The cross-section of the timber makes it possible to provide a margin of bearing capacity. There is no chance of bending the rafters. Supports and spacers can be placed almost anywhere.
An obvious drawback is the impossibility of arranging a full-fledged attic floor. Sharp corners create blind spots that are unusable.
The arrangement of one angle more than 45 ° leads to a decrease in the amount of unused area. It becomes possible to make living rooms under the roof. At the same time, the requirements for the calculation are increasing, since the load on the walls and foundation will be unevenly distributed.
This roof structure allows you to equip a full second floor under the roof.
Naturally, a simple gable roof rafter differs from a broken one, not only visually. The main difficulty lies in the complexity of the calculations.
Do-it-yourself roof construction of any complexity presupposes knowledge of the purpose of the main structural elements.
The locations of the elements are shown in the photo.
Advice. For a metal rafter system, the Mauerlat must also be metal. For example, a channel or I-profile.
The silhouette of the truss determines the appearance of the structure. Examples of farms in the photo.
The parameters of the rafters are important. They will be discussed below.
The position of the pillar depending on the length of the roof is shown in the figure.
Advice. Installing the brace at an angle of 45 ° significantly reduces the risk of deformation from wind and snow loads.
In regions with significant wind and snow loads, not only longitudinal struts (located in the same plane with the rafter pair) are installed, but also diagonal ones.
Advice. An important purpose of the lathing is to redistribute the load from the roofing material to the rafter system.
The presence of a drawing and a diagram indicating the location of all the listed structural elements will help in the work.
Advice. Be sure to add data on the device for the passage of the ventilation shaft and chimney to the gable roof truss system diagram.
The technology of their device is determined by the type of roof.
When calculating the material for a gable roof, you need to choose high-quality wood without damage and wormholes. The presence of knots for beams, Mauerlat and rafters is not allowed.
For boards, there should be a minimum of knots, and they should not fall out. The wood must be durable and treated with the necessary preparations that will enhance its properties.
Advice. The length of the knot should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the bar.
The calculation of the parameters of the material is an important stage, therefore, we present the calculation algorithm step by step.
It is important to know: the entire rafter system consists of many triangles, as the most rigid element. In turn, if the slopes have a different shape, i.e. are an irregular rectangle, then you need to divide it into separate components and calculate the load and the amount of materials for each. Summarize the data after calculations.
The load on the rafters can be of three types:
Advice. To make a margin of safety for the rafter system, it is better to add 10% to the calculation.
For reference: The weight of some roofing materials per 1 sq. M. presented in the table
Advice. It is desirable that the weight of the roofing material per 1 sq. roof area, did not exceed 50 kg.
Basically, the roof slope is like a sail and, if you take into account the wind load, the entire roof structure can be destroyed.
The calculation is carried out according to the formula: the wind load is equal to the indicator for the region, multiplied by the correction factor. These indicators are contained in the SNiP "Loads and Impacts" and are determined not only by the region, but also by the location of the house. For example, a private house surrounded by multi-storey buildings has less stress. A detached country house or summer cottage is experiencing increased wind loads.
The calculation of the roof for the snow load is carried out according to the formula:
The total snow load is equal to the weight of the snow multiplied by the correction factor. The coefficient takes into account wind pressure and aerodynamic influence.
The weight of snow, which falls on 1 sq. roof area (according to SNiP 2.01.07-85) is in the range of 80-320 kg / sq.
The coefficients showing the dependence on the angle of inclination of the slope are shown in the photo.
Nuance. At an angle of inclination of the slope over 60 ° the snow load does not affect the calculation. Since the snow will quickly slide down and will not affect the strength of the timber.
Nuance. The simultaneous action of many factors causes a synergistic effect. This is worth considering (see photo).
It should be borne in mind that the roof has a significant weight that can harm the rest of the building.
The more complex the shape of the roof, the greater the number of trusses and trusses needed to create the necessary safety margin.
The angle of inclination of a gable roof is determined primarily by the roofing material. After all, each of them puts forward its own requirements.
It should be noted that increasing the angle increases the area of space under the roof, but also the amount of material. What affects the total cost of work.
Nuance. The minimum angle of inclination of the gable roof must be at least 5 °.
The pitch of the rafters of a gable roof for residential buildings can be from 60 to 100 cm. The choice depends on the roofing material and the weight of the roof structure. Then the number of rafter legs is calculated by dividing the length of the ramp by the distance between the rafter pairs plus 1. The resulting number determines the number of legs per ramp. For the second, the number needs to be multiplied by 2.
The length of the rafters for the attic roof is calculated according to the Pythagorean theorem.
Parameter "a"(roof height) is set independently. Its value determines the possibility of arranging a dwelling under the roof, the convenience of being in the attic, and the consumption of material for the construction of the roof.
Parameter "b" equal to half the width of the building.
Parameter "c" represents the hypotenuse of the triangle.
Advice. To the resulting value, you need to add 60-70 cm. For sawing and carrying the rafter leg over the wall.
It should be noted that the maximum length of the bar is 6 lm. Therefore, if necessary, the rafter beam can be spliced (building, docking, joining).
The method of splicing the rafters along the length is shown in the photo.
The width of the roof rafters depends on the distance between the opposing load-bearing walls.
The cross-section of the gable roof rafters depends on several factors:
You can determine the cross-section of the timber for the rafters, knowing the distance between the rafters and the length of the rafters, using the data below.
Advice. The larger the step of installing the rafters, the greater the load falls on one rafter pair. This means that the cross-section of the rafters needs to be increased.
Sizes of lumber (timber and boards) for a gable rafter system:
For the roof structure under consideration, there are 2 options: layered and hanging rafters.
Let's consider each type in detail in order to make an informed choice.
They are used with a roof width of no more than 6 lm. Installation of hanging rafters is carried out by attaching the leg to the load-bearing wall and ridge girder. The design of the hanging rafters is special in that the rafter legs are under the influence of a bursting force. Hanging rafters with a tie between the legs reduce its influence. The tightening in the rafter system can be wooden or metal. Puffs are often placed at the bottom, then they play the role of load-bearing beams. It is important to ensure that the fastener is securely attached to the rafter leg. Because a bursting force is also transmitted to it.
Advice.
The higher the puff is located, the more strength it should have.
If the tightening is not installed, the load-bearing walls can simply "disperse" from the pressure created by the rafter system.
They are used for arranging roofs of any size. The design of the layered rafters provides for the presence of a bench and a stand. The bed lying parallel to the Mauerlat takes on part of the load. Thus, the rafter legs are, as it were, inclined to each other and are supported by a stand. The rafter legs of the layered system work only for bending. And the ease of installation also tilts the scales in their favor. The only drawback is the presence of a rack.
Due to the fact that modern roofs are distinguished by a large variety of shapes and complexity of configurations, a combined type of rafter system is used.
After choosing the type of rafter system, you can accurately calculate the amount of materials. Record the calculation results. At the same time, professionals recommend drawing up drawings for each roof element.
After the rafters of the gable roof have been calculated, you can proceed with the installation. We will divide the process into stages and give a description of each of them. You will get a kind of step-by-step instructions containing additional information on each stage.
The beam is installed along the length of the wall on which the rafters will rest.
In log cabins, the upper crown plays the role of Mauerlat. In buildings built of porous material (aerated concrete, foam concrete) or brick, the Mauerlat is installed along the entire length of the load-bearing wall. In other cases, it can be installed between the rafter legs.
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Since the length of the Mauerlat exceeds the standard dimensions of lumber, it has to be spliced.
The connection of the Mauerlat to each other is done as shown in the figure.
The bars are washed down only at an angle of 90 °. The connection is made using bolts. Nails, wire, wooden pins are not used.
The Mauerlat is installed on the top of the wall. The mounting technology provides for several ways of attaching the Mauerlat:
Advice.
Mauerlat cannot be placed closer than 5 cm to the outer edge of the wall.
To protect the timber for the Mauerlat from damage, it is laid on a layer of waterproofing material, which is most often an ordinary roofing material.
The reliability of the Mauerlat fastening is an important aspect of construction. This is because the roof slope is like a sail. That is, it is experiencing a strong wind load. Therefore, the Mauerlat must be firmly fixed to the wall.
Anchor bolts. Ideal for monolithic construction.
Wooden dowels. Used for log cabins and beams. But, they are always used with additional fasteners.
Staples.
Hairpin or fittings. It is used if the cottage is built of porous materials (aerated concrete, foam concrete).
Sliding mount (articulated). A bundle in this way allows you to ensure the displacement of the rafter legs when the house shrinks.
Annealed wire (knitting, steel). Used as an additional mount in most cases.
Installation is carried out in two ways:
Advice. Before assembling the rafter legs, you need to apply the markings. It is very convenient to use templates for these purposes. The rafter pairs assembled according to the template will be exactly the same. To make a template, you need to take two boards, the length of each of which is equal to the length of one rafter, and are connected to each other.
The collected pairs go upstairs and are installed on the Mauerlat. To do this, at the bottom of the rafter legs, you need to make a wash.
Advice. Since the slots on the Mauerlat will weaken it, you can only make cuts on the rafter leg. In order for the saw to be the same and fit snugly to the base, you need to use a template. It is cut from plywood.
The ways of attaching the rafter leg are shown in the figure.
You need to start the installation of rafter pairs from opposite ends of the roof.
Advice. To properly position the rafter legs, it is best to use temporary struts and struts.
A string is pulled between the fixed pairs. It will simplify the installation of subsequent rafter pairs. And also, it will indicate the level of the skate.
If the rafter system is mounted directly on the roof of the house, then after installing the two outer rafter legs, the ridge support is installed. Further, half of the rafter pairs are attached to it.
It is worth noting that the opinions of professionals differ on this issue. Some advise using a staggered fastening order, which will evenly distribute the increasing load on the walls and foundation more evenly. This procedure involves the installation of one rafter in a checkerboard pattern. After part of the rafter legs are installed, the missing parts of the pair are mounted. Others insist that you need to do sequential editing of each pair. Depending on the size of the structure and the configuration of the truss, the rafter legs are reinforced with struts and struts.
Nuance. Additional structural elements are connected by cutting. It is preferable to fix them with construction brackets.
If necessary, you can lengthen the rafter leg.
Methods for splicing rafter legs are shown in the photo.
Advice. The way in which the Mauerlat is lengthened (washed down at 90 °) cannot be used in this case. This will loosen the rafter.
The roof ridge assembly is made by connecting the rafter legs at the top.
Roof ridge device:
After the rafter system has been installed, we make the capital fastening of all structural elements.
The lathing is mounted in any case, and is designed for more convenient movement on the roof during work, as well as for fastening the roofing material.
The step of the lathing depends on the type of roofing material, for example:
As you can see, despite the apparent simplicity, the installation of the gable roof truss system contains many pitfalls. But, based on the recommendations given, you can easily build a reliable structure with your own hands.
When building a country house, you yourself save a lot of money on hiring workers. With the skills and tools, most of the work can be done independently. However, when erecting a roof with your own hands, you will not be able to cope alone. Roofing works require three to four people.
Before talking about installing a roof, it is worth remembering a few names of structural elements and understand what they mean:
Today there are many types of roofs - the main ones are one-, two-, four-slope (hip), multi-slope, mansard and half-hip. Various types are used depending on the purpose of the premises, as well as on financial capabilities and taste preferences.
A pitched roof is the most budgetary option that does not require large material costs. As a rule, it is used for garages and outbuildings. However, in order to save money, it is quite possible to block a small residential building with it.
The most common in individual construction is a gable roof. This is due to the simplicity of its arrangement and its versatility. The slope of the gable roof is due to the distance between the load-bearing walls of the house.
From a geometric point of view, the hipped roof consists of four isosceles triangles converging at its top, and the shape really resembles a tent. It is a design that has not received wide distribution due to the high cost and complexity of manufacture.
The hipped roof differs from the hipped roof by the presence of a ridge at its top. The road to manufacture is also difficult, like the hipped roof, but we must pay tribute to their appearance - they look gorgeous, and this type of roof most often appears in the photo of expensive country houses.
Sloped roofs are used very rarely, and, as a rule, due to the complex layout of the house, or if there are extensions in the house.
Mansard roofs combine the function of both the roof and the walls of the room. They are much more difficult to manufacture than conventional gable ones, but they are popular due to their practicality. And with a creative approach, having correctly calculated the drawing, the attic can also be organized under a gable roof.
In areas with cold winters and a lot of snow, if the slope is incorrectly calculated, whole drifts of snow will form on the roof. Ultimately, it can end in disastrous - the snow can push through the roof.
When using slate or tiles, remember about the joints between sheets and tiles. If the angle is small, the roof may start leaking.
An approximate calculation of the roof slope is as follows - for snowy areas at least 40 degrees. The drawings give such data - gable roofs are placed at a slope of 30-45 degrees, single-pitched ones - 25-30.
The construction and installation of a gable roof takes place in stages in several steps. The first of these is the installation of the Mauerlat. The Mauerlat is fastened by means of studs or anchors to the upper part of the load-bearing wall.
It is important to place the Mauerlat beams in the same plane, preferably in the same horizontal level. They are positioned, ideally, so that the Mauerlat forms a regular rectangle.
The second stage - the trusses are assembled, after which the rafters are installed on the floors. First of all, a drawing of the frame is drawn up, the length of the rafters' legs is calculated, as well as the angle of the connection.
The assembly of the trusses takes place on the ground. First of all, the trusses are attached from the edges. After their installation, the rest are fixed at an equal distance. Having mounted the trusses, a 150X50 mm board is nailed on both sides of the roof along the upper edge of the slope, 30 cm longer than the length of the cornice.
All wooden elements must be treated with fire-retardant protection.
The third stage is the installation of the lathing and waterproofing. Waterproofing protects the rafters from getting wet and damp and is located under the crate from the eaves to the ridge.
The lathing is made of 50X50 mm timber, and boards 30-40 mm thick with a width of 120-150 mm. There must be an air gap between the battens and the waterproofing.
The final stage - a roof is sewn onto the crate (ondulin, slate, tiles are laid, etc.). The gables are closed with corrugated board, board, clapboard or plywood - depending on artistic preferences and finances. Attach such a sheathing to the side of the rafters using wood screws or nails.
Arrangement of the roof is one of the final stages of the construction of any building. Roof installation is a responsible task, the quality of which determines the characteristics of the future home, including the safety of its inhabitants. Therefore, this stage requires close attention. But this does not mean that in order to build a roof, you will have to call professionals. With the right approach, all the necessary work can be done independently. And our article will tell you in detail how to make a roof with your own hands, drawings and photos will help you understand the nuances of the arrangement process and achieve an excellent result without unnecessary investments.
They proceed to the arrangement of the roof after all other basic work has been completed. That is, your future home already has a solid foundation and strong walls. We can say that the roof is the most costly element of the structure, as well as requiring painstaking work. In order to perform a high-quality installation of the roof, you must at least know what types of it are used today and what are their features.
A building without a roof is not a building. Because the presence of a roof provides protection from cold and precipitation, retains heat, makes the building beautiful and livable. Just as a house cannot stand without one wall or without a foundation, so it cannot become a full-fledged dwelling without a good, reliable roof. Therefore, self-erection should be a thoughtful and balanced step so that it does not turn into a waste of energy and time. Think about what is needed to achieve your goal, analyze all the stages and draw up a detailed optimal plan of action.
The first thing that should be determined when planning the construction of a roof is its type. In this case, you can, of course, rely solely on your own aesthetic preferences. But this option can hardly be called the optimal choice. When determining the appropriate type of roof, one must focus on the features of the future building, its purpose, dimensions and other characteristics. It is necessary to correlate them with the characteristics of various types of roofing, and then the optimal choice will become obvious.
At the very least, you will choose the two options that best suit your building conditions, and then you can use your aesthetic preferences. So, today buildings are supplied with the following types of roofing:
When deciding on the type of roof for your home, pay attention to what you choose when building modern houses. Analyze your own needs. Do you need living space in the attic? If there is a need for it, then it makes sense to tackle a more complex type of roof - an attic broken line. If not, then he can always turn to the "classic" gable construction.
The complexity of working with a roof is largely determined not only by the type of roof chosen, but also by how large the area should be. For large houses it is difficult to erect a roof, for small houses it is easier. The layout also matters. The complexity of the roof structure is determined to a greater extent only by the complexity of the manufacture of the rafter system.
Once you've decided on the type of construction, it's time to choose your preferred materials. The type of material also affects what kind of rafter system will be for your roof. After all, any material has a weight that exerts pressure. Therefore, rafters often require additional reinforcement. It is equally important to determine how the roofing material will be attached to the boards and other important points.
A competently executed and reliable drawing is the key to a successful solution to the problem of roofing. It is the basis of all work. Some elements of the roof deserve to be highlighted in a separate scheme, especially for those nodes that are responsible for connecting the reinforcing parts and the rafter system.
The heaviest roofing material is ceramic tiles. Of course, it is beautiful and environmentally friendly, but it requires special preparation of the building for an additional serious load. This applies not only to the rafter system, but also to the walls and foundations. Look at a few drawings that may be useful to you in the process of doing roofing work with your own hands.
The best material for rafters is softwood with a moisture content of 20%. There should be no bitches or blue on it.
To solve the issue of arranging the roof, you must have:
The first stage in creating a rafter system is the installation of reinforced concrete strapping over the walls. This is a mandatory step for any houses, except for log houses. Tying is necessary to strengthen the walls and align them horizontally, creating a smooth surface.
In the frame of the strapping, you need to insert the reinforced pins necessary for fastening the Mauerlat. Their height should be sufficient to protrude 3 cm above the Mauerlat. The Mauerlat itself is made of a 20x20 mm or 150x150 mm beam, the purpose of which is to serve as the basis for the rafters.
Do not forget to pay enough attention to such an aspect as high-quality and reliable waterproofing. The appropriate material is placed on the harness. As such, roofing material can be used. It's affordable and does an excellent job of keeping out moisture ingress. A Mauerlat is placed on top of it and fixed to the studs with galvanized nuts. Constantly control the degree of evenness of the Mauerlat laying using a serviceable level.
When using wooden elements in your work, take care of ensuring their durability. To do this, treat them with antiseptic compounds.
At the next stage, the so-called rafter legs are installed. The material here will be a bar of 150x150 mm. Spacers, braces, ties are created from boards of suitable sizes. The type of rafters can be hanging or inclined. It is determined by the structure of the roof itself.
After installing the external rafters, you need to attach the sheathing. It is simply nailed to the rafters. The material for it is boards 2 cm thick. Do not forget about the features of the type of roof you have chosen, because it is he who determines the structure of the lathing - it will be solid or with gaps.
But before the crate, one more important task must be solved - to isolate the rafters from moisture. If you plan to use the attic as a living room, then additional insulation is required. Thermal insulation is placed between the rafters. Use foam or mineral wool. If you skip this important stage, then later you will have to perform the same manipulations under the already assembled roof, which is rather inconvenient. Therefore, take care of this in advance.
For the living room, the insulation is put in a double layer, each of which is at least 50 mm. The material you choose should simultaneously retain heat and perform a soundproofing function. It is recommended to put vapor barrier materials on the insulation. Otherwise, there is a risk of condensation forming on the insulation. If you are building a roof yourself, then it makes sense to follow professional advice and instructions in detail so that the construction is of the highest quality.
The finishing line in creating a roof is laying the roofing material. Slate is most often used. It is inexpensive, time-tested, durable. But today it makes sense to pay attention to more modern materials: tiles, ondulin, etc. In this regard, it is difficult to advise anything, since the properties and characteristics of all materials are different, as well as their cost. Therefore, choose according to your own taste and in accordance with your capabilities.
