Facing the walls of plasterboard provides for a device or wooden Bruschev. It is mostly used a metal lamp, it is more durable and more practical.
In rooms with a normal and dry temperature-humidarity mode for the framework of the framework, the use of wooden bars, a moisture content of 12% impregnated with antiseptic and antipyarem compositions is permissible. In places with high humidity, as well as where the increase in fire resistance of structures is used only metal carcass.
For the device of wooden frames, the timber is selected by a cross section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls). Basic requirements for material: Humidity - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. Common nature of the tree - pine.
Connection of frame parts, their mount on the wall and the ceiling are performed dowel-nails. IN concrete surfaces Pre-make holes with a perforator with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.
Additional fasteners can be attributed to metal corners. They are joining vertical racks with horizontal. The fastening of the guide wooden bars lead in a step of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest racks).
Metal plate is used for both walls and ceiling
The connection of the elements of the wooden frame is performed with each other. self-timers At an angle or metal perforated corners. Installation of bars on the wall is made with an indent from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without an indent, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical racks are fixed immediately on the wall. If it is a curve, make it aligning with special stores or by lining in the right places of wooden pads.
In the arrangement of the design and construction rules, there are basic requirements that need to be observed to create a solid frame and subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main of them:
The installation of the frame on the wall should be performed after the end of wet processes and to the assembly of the first floor, on the ceiling - after the completion of the finishes and laying engineering communications. All work behave in the following order:
On the floor and the ceiling by the folding cord, the position of future starting bars of the frame is applied, taking into account their thickness. Transfer of labels between the floor and the ceiling is performed laser level or magnetic plumb. At the same time, the location is celebrated door openings, Fastening the vertical racks taking into account the selected step.
Attention. It is necessary that the sheets of sheets fall on the center of vertical racks. This makes an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or reduce the step of profiles in the right places.
According to the marked lines on the floor and the ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with a dowel-nail, a length of at least 3.5 cm. Tracking vertical bars adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they are tightly entered between guides. Produce fixation of elements with self-draws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of \u200b\u200bthe room must be framed around the perimeter.
Insulation laid in the frame
Attention! If the insulation is placed in space between the frame and the wall, it is necessary to take into account this at the settlement stage, placing the starting bar at a bought distance from the wall.
At the second stage, vertical bars with a selected step are mounted. To ensure additional stiffness of the structure, it is strengthened by horizontally located between the racks.
Laying Communications
If you plan to accommodate sanitary and technical pipelines and low-current wiring (TV, Internet, phone), you need to do it after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical bars, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.
Sheets are placed on a frame, configuring close to the wall and the ceiling, fasten with self-drawing from the center to the edges or simultaneously in the vertical and horizontal plane (alternately). Self-tapping caps are accumulated by 1 mm. Between the sheets and the floor they leave the gap 1-1.5 cm close it by sealant.
Attention. If the tapping screw went into the material is not at a right angle or deformed, it is replaced by another, having a distance from the first at least 5 cm.
The joints between the sheets with the reinforcing ribbon or without depending on the type of the edge of the GLC. The sweeping composition is applied in 2 layers - start and finishing and should not be outside the seam. The angles are treated with the use of reinforcing tape, bending it under the desired angle. After drying, the solution produces finish finish Sheet surfaces with subsequent placement of facing material.
Plasterboard products are very popular in modern construction and repair business, because they have a number of advantages, for example, additional sound insulation and heat preservation.
Work involves the use of metal or wooden frames, the second every year becomes more popular because wooden crafts They are natural, environmentally friendly, non-toxic and safe, both for both human and environmental. They are as simple as possible in the installation, which allows the installation of independently, without resorting to the services of specialists, construction repair brigades.
Wooden frame Under plasterboard is made from coniferous rocks Tree, and the timber is selected depending on the height and method of the trim.
What is this article
The selected tree for the manufacture of craters for GKC must match the following characteristics:
It is worth noting that picking up wooden products, it is worth paying attention to their size - it should be the same, because it will save time and additional efforts when installing.
The obligatory point is to leave the tree in the room for several days (at least 2 days) so that it can acclimatize, after which it must be treated with an antiseptic to extend its service life. Such a treatment eliminates the product from the destruction of all sorts of biological factors, such as: mold and fungi, rotting, invasion of insects and rodents (an antiseptic in its composition has components that scare pests, for this perfectly suitable, for example, 3-4% sodium fluoride, which is different Good penetrating properties, while not harmful and toxic to humans).
Leave the tree into the room for a couple of days before the start of work so that it acquires the humidity and the room temperature and will not "walk" in the future.
Wooden frame for drywall is very flexible, unpretentious in work and convenient, which allows you to make installation with your own hands as soon as possible, without possessing special knowledge, skills and without spending a large amount of funds.
By choosing a tree as a basis, it is necessary to know that it is poorly in contact with water and high humidity, so it is not recommended to use in rooms with high humidity. This can lead to a damage of the entire design, its deformation and swelling. When water and the subsequent drying, the product may crack or get other defects.
Also, the tree is poorly amenable to curvature, which is necessary to create a special design.
So that work has passed efficiently and quickly needs to be purchased in advance and prepare the following tools and materials:
All tools are standard and very affordable (they can be bought at any construction store), so there will be no problems with their choice and purchase. Some tools can be rented, for example, a screwdriver and a drill, if they do not need in the future, it is very convenient and economically. After the preparation of all components, it is possible to start the installation of the ceiling.
This is the most important step in the installation, so the end result will depend on it so that the whole procedure has passed without errors, it is worth the markup from the lowest angle indoors after which, using the hydroelector, you must apply the remaining corners. Using this method, it will be possible not to be afraid that one of the edges will not fit into the overall geometry of the building.
When marking, it is necessary to leave approximately 5 cm in order to be able to hide the base of the lighting and wires. Next you need to make markers on the walls in order to connect them later, they must be perfectly smooth.
After that, it is necessary to note the place where the suspensions must be fixed.
Mounting Hypina wooden bars It begins with the fact that all parts are adjusted for the desired size, spilifing unnecessary parts. It is necessary to take into account that it is necessary to leave approximately 1 cm between the wall and the crate so that in the future it may have increased the details.
First of all, it is necessary to fasten the guide elements of the base around the perimeter of the room so that they are a guide to determine the level of the ceiling surface. It is very important here that they are located strictly horizontally in a single plane.
To clearly see how all parts should be located in the plane, you can use the following method: It is necessary to install one thread from one corner of the room, and other threads need to be pulled so that they intersect the room along and across, they will help to understand how and where the plane will be located.
The wooden lamp under plasterboard assumes that fasteners of all elements will be made by nails if the walls are not brick and not concrete, in this case the fastener should be from 40 to 60 cm.
After all the bars are fixed, you can start fastening the remaining parts of the crate, it is necessary to do it so that the GWL is located across the crates. It is worth noting that if the distance does not exceed the thickness of the wooden part itself, the fasteners can be carried out straight to the base base. If the situation is back, then it will be necessary to start the suspension to start, applying a dowel, but only then to attach wooden elements to the suspension with screws.
If a small difference was formed between the distance from the base ceiling and the difference in the thickness of the part, then fix the situation by plans under the slashes desired sizeUsing the plane.
To ensure the entire design, high stability and reliability you need to attach wooden elements and ensure that the step does not exceed 100 cm.
To implement quality mounting Plasterboard sheets on a tree crate, it is necessary to perform work in a step of 30 cm, while installing the screws in such a way that their heads are slightly driven into the sheet.
Working, it is necessary to ensure that all the joints of the plasterboard sheets are located strictly on the ground, without hiding in the air.
It is worth noting that at all stages of work it is worth it to clearly ensure that the ceiling is even and anywhere there are knobs, roughness and irregularities. If you do not follow this, at the end of the work, the whole design may result in oblique, which will strongly affect the quality and appearance Ceiling.
All work can be performed independently without resorting to the services of professionals, if you purchase high-quality material, it is correct to process it, prepare and clearly follow the instructions described above. High-quality work will be able to ensure high strength and reliability of the entire crate, as well as its durability.
By choosing a tree as the basis, you can be confident in its quality, security and opportunities, because it can be given any form suitable for any future interior of an apartment or a house with a planer. Due to this, the wooden frame can become excellent alternative metal counterparts.
It will only be about the longitudinal (vertical) cladding scheme. Approximate cladding sequence on wooden frame as follows:
1. Place the position of the bars of the crate and cut them in size. When cutting racks, it is necessary to subtract from the length of the wall thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars.
2. Install racks and upper and lower horizontal bars.
3. Install short bars over door and window openings, slightly shifting vertical short bars so as not to make cuts in drywall.
4. Refrigerate (glue GLC) window and doorways inside. Needle plasterboard sheets on the walls.
5. Nail sheets around window and doorways.
6. Close the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls to the finish finish.
Walls made of brick and masonry are rarely perfectly even, so in the manufacture of plasterboard facing, all irregularities should be taken into account. Much difficulty is the alignment of the bars of the crate of vertical and horizontally. If this procedure does not pay due attention, smooth and smooth walls will not work.
Mounting the frame at an uneven wall is performed so. First detect the irregularities of the wall. The exhaled lower horizontal timing of the future frame is placed on the floor in the wall and spend a line along its outer edge. Perform markup at a rack with a pitch of 600 mm. Then the racking wheel is pressed vertically to the wall and the position of the end is noted at an equal intervals when it comes out the line on the floor. Connect the marks of the second line parallel to the first. Attach the support bar to the floor so that its outer edge goes along the outdoor mark. Install vertical bars on the support, aligning their external surfaces, inserting, if necessary, gaskets. Equality check with a plumb, level and rule. Fix the horizontal bar at the ceiling level. It is more convenient to first install two extreme racks (vertical bar) and stretch the cord between them. Then set the intermediate racks and check the fixation of the installation on the cord if the floor is uneven, then the support bar is also put on anything in the right places (so that it is installed at one level), and then exhibit all the other bars.
For alignment of the racks, trimming plywood, fiberboard, wood of the desired thickness are used. On the gaskets you can apply a little glue on the tree before clogging for bars. The gaskets are installed in those cases, if the ends of the bar are tightly on the wall surface, and in any of its middle part there is a gap (concave wall).
When deflection on a large segment, the step between the dowels should be reduced to increase the rigidity of the bar.
If there is a smooth floor and if it allows its area, you can simplify the process of mounting the frame. For this, the internal perimeter of the wall is carefully measured. Then the frame was collected on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm for a length and 5 mm to height. Brux bars are inserted into the resulting frame with a pitch of 600 mm, and they are attached to nails clogged through the frame in the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the collected frame lies facial side On the smooth floor - in the assembled form it will already have a smooth surface. Therefore, the step of the reconciliation of each bar in terms of the level is thus excluded. It remains only to insert collected framework On the perimeter of the wall and, together their edges, fix the dowels with screws or dowel-nails.
Marking for ordinary (universal, etc.) Dowels are performed using an electric drill. For this, the bar is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Asking the partner to reliably hold the bar in its original position, drill through holes in it in an 800-1000 mm increments in such a way that the output drill makes marks on the wall. The diameter of the drill must be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the applied screws. After that, drill the wall to the installation of the dowels. Holes of the dowels after they are installed accurately coincide with the holes in Broke.
In the event that the attachment of the bars will have to be performed without a partner, they come so. Find the point of the location of one dowel. Drilled in the wall (floor, ceiling) under it the hole in which the dowel is installed. After that, the bar is fixed on one dowel and holding it with one hand so that it does not shift, drill through holes in the bar until a clear mark on the wall is obtained. After that, the bar can be removed or simply turn around the axis of the installed dowel (pre-twisting a little screw) so that access to marked places has opened. After that, the holes are drilled and the remaining dowels are installed.
The most convenient to perform the fastening of the frame to the brick or concrete Wall Dowel-nails. The bar is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, drill through holes in it with a step of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill the hole in the wall. The diameter of the drill with a winning tip is determined by the dowel diameter.
Fastening frame K. wooden wall It is carried out using long galvanized nails.
Facing the walls of the room with plasterboard can be started either from the angle or from the window or door opening. For fastening the sheathing on a wooden frame, screw screws 35 mm long with a step of fastening 250 mm or galvanized nails (better than special serrated) 40 mm long (for sheets of 12.5 mm thick) with a 100 mm fastening step. GLCs are fixed around the perimeter and to intermediate racks (see Fig. 47). The indentation from the edges is the same - from the edge of the lined edge of the edge of at least 10 mm and from the edge of the unclosed edge of at least 15 mm. Work is carried out from the angle in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. Nails are driven until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the head of the nail or the screw should not break the paper. There should be space in 5-7 mm for decoration of seams between sheets of drywall. Between the floor and the end edges of the plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm. Between the ceiling and the upper end edges of drywall sheets, it is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws should be covered and cleaned.
If the length of the sheet is not enough to overlap the entire room in height, the sheets are placed with the displacement of adjacent end joints (rotary), and in the places of compounds, the transverse bars are mounted.
This article outlines instructions, how to mount plasterboard to wooden bars and make the installation of drywall on a wooden frame light and fast.
Facing the walls and ceilings of indoor premises is a quick, inexpensive and sufficiently non-robous modern method of finishing the interiors of civil and public houses.
There are several trimming options with a plasterboard sheet (GLC):
The framework of the frame can serve as a metal galvanized sheet profiles, and wooden elements - rail, timber, board. A possible frame for plasterboard from a tree may be preferable to a metal profile, since the installation of drywall does with their own hands on the wooden frame does not represent a special complexity and does not require special skills. Wood is easily processing - dried, sawing.
Is it possible to mount plasterboard on a wooden frame? Yes, and besides, it allows you to save on the finish, refusing to acquire sufficiently expensive metal profiles. However, the carcass for drywall from the tree is not recommended to use when the room has high humidity - In the bathrooms, boiler, shower and private bathrooms.
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How to make a wooden frame for plasterboard? If the partition is trimmed, it is usually a three-layer construction of a cutting board with a thickness of 25-30 mm. The outer layers are formed from vertical boards, and the inner layer is from horizontal. If the partition installation is neatly and competent, without distortion, then such a partition actually forms a frame for drywall from the boards to which without any preparation using self-samples, you can mount the panels from GOC.
The use of the board for the manufacture of framework designs in other cases is inappropriate, as this will lead to the consumption of material and an increase in the cost and complexity of work. For cladding concrete, bricks, logs, as well as old peashed walls and ceilings, it is better to use a frame from a bar under plasterboard.
Many are interested, is it possible to mount plasterboard on wooden slats? Since the difference between wood products (such as a rack and rack) is insignificant to the installation of GLCs, the installation of drywall on wooden rails and the installation of drywall on the bars almost does not differ among themselves.
Is it possible to mount drywall on wooden bars if simply fasten them on the walls or ceiling? This option is possible, but it is better to make a carcass for drywall from wooden bars. In how to mount the timber to the plasterboard, a small instruction on the installation of drywall on a wooden frame of timber will be helped.
For drywall, the largest distribution was obtained with the following dimensions: in width of 1200 mm and a length of 2500 mm. In this case, the installation of panels on the design of a frame of wood different types Both characteristics (moisture resistant, hardening, etc.) has the same composition of the work.
To determine the required number of HCL plates, it is necessary to draw a sketch of the walls of the walls and the ceiling with all door and window openings, discovery and technological niches (for example, under heating radiators). After counting the working area, it should be divided into an area that one GKK has. The resulting value should be increased by 20% (on trimming and unforeseen expenses), which will be the number of required panels.
It is necessary to put the vertical and horizontal axes on the plan, which will be installed on the wall elements of the frame, which ensure the mounting of the plasterboard onto the wooden bars. Its structural scheme will be:
Additionally, the bars of the second type should be used for the framework of window and door openings and technological niches. If the height of the room exceeds 2500 mm, the upper horizontal timber is replaced by a ram with a cross section of 80 x 40 mm and is installed so that the additional 40 mm is used for fastening top panel Cropped to the corresponding length of the GLC leaf, the length of the vertical bars of the first and second type must also be increased and the top of the second type is installed.
After calculating the total length of the required number of bars and also increases it by 20%, they can be purchased in the construction market or to do in a workshop engaged in wood processing. Particularly need to pay attention to the missing space and increased batch.
Before use of at least one week, the entire set of wooden bars should be designed in the room in which it will be used. Thereafter, rejection should be carried out, and the remaining trees with special compositions - antiseptics that prevent rotting and damage to fungi and mold, with antipirens that attach flame retardant properties. Currently available impregnation deep penetrationproviding protection for wood and preventing the wet of humidity in the room in fairly wide limits.
In the manufacture and mounting of the frame, you must follow the drawn plan.
Tools and inventory that will be required to perform work:
Assembling the frame and its installation from individual harvested elements with their own hands directly on the ceiling or on the wall presents some difficulties - it is necessary to constant alignment and fit in horizontal and vertical planes With permanent use of a plumb, level, construction kit and rail-rules.
If the length and width of the room, the enlarged assembly of large frame fragments can be made directly on the floor. At the same time, the framework of the frame, both on the wall and on the ceiling, and to align and attach in vertical and horizontal planes, will be substantially easier.
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The horizontal and vertical elements are well connected together with the use of a rigid metal segments bent under the right angle of the rigid metal of the desired width (25 mm) or through small lumps. Both those and others are fixed in the necessary places with screws.
The installation of frame fragments on the walls and the ceiling can be performed using a wood screw, if the walls and ceiling are wooden, with the help of the so-called "plugs", when in a brick or stone in the right place, in a predetermined point of the wall, the hole is drilled in which it is installed Wooden Cupik, in which, in turn, through an element of the frame, a nail is clogged or screwed down, while instead of a chopper, plastic beats with a metal self-tapping screw can be used.
After installing and equalizing the frame with significant tubing and skews between it and the wall (or ceiling), gaps can be formed to fill with a gypsum solution (if the tree was previously protected by moisture protection impregnation), use mounting foam Or wooden wedges and lining together with glue glue for wood, for example, PVA. Otherwise, a wooden frame for drywall on the wall (or ceiling) will have an increased increment and can be deformed when installing the GCC panels.
After installing and aligning on the wall or on the ceiling of the frame design, you can begin mounting drywall on a wooden frame by directly editing the GCL panels. In how to fix bars to plasterboard, the following instruction will help.
To mount the drywall sheet, it must be tightly pressing to the mounted frame design of the wood frame, so that the long edges of the leaf lay down exactly along the axes of the bar of the first type by cross section of 80 x 25 mm per distance of 40 mm, and so that it is possible to fix it to the remaining 40 mm adjacent sheet.
Fasteners are carried out using self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm. Using a screwdriver, it is necessary to start fixing the GCL leaf on the frame, starting with the average intermediate horizontal element of the second type. In order not to be mistaken with twisting, on the sheet of drywall from the outside, it is better to put a line with a pencil that corresponds to the axes of the framework of the frame.
After that, you need to secure the sheet to the upper and lower horizontal frame elements. If the panel should be mounted on the wall, behind its verticality and absence of distortions you need to look using a plumb, and on the ceiling - using the level.
Then the sheet can be fastened with vertical racks. When spinning screws, it should be noted that the distance from them to the edge of the sheet should be at least 20 mm. The step between adjacent screws should be 100-120 mm.
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Instructions, how the plasterboard must be mounted on the ceiling, is not much different from how to mount the GLK on the wall. On the horizontal surface of the ceiling, the horizontal doom in the form of a frame, which should be attached to the ceiling designs and align horizontally using a water level. The enlarged elements of the framework for the convenience of its installation is also better to be appropriate on the floor.
In order to mount a frame from a bar for drywall on the ceiling and to strip his GLC, his hands may not be enough. For installation, assistant may be required. In exceptional cases, you can use the backups and disclosures that will be able to assist the installation of drywall on bars alone, but this method should be used with caution, since unforeseen situations may arise related to the fall and destruction of plasterboard sheets.
There are several ways to create smooth walls and ceilings in the interior. When one of them is fixed plasterboard on a wooden frame. It is made of pine or spruce bars, the cross section of which should correspond to future loads. To create a septum with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm timber is suitable.
The bars for the frame for plasterboard are performed from spruce or pine trees and are thoroughly dried and processed.
The bar must be carefully checked. It can be weakly yellow or light brown without black or blue spots. Each item should have the right geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and rectinity deviations.
For construction, I. finishing works It is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to check it yourself, so when the material is selected, you just need to make sure your hand touch, that it is not wet. Before installation, it is desirable for a few days to hold the bars indoors where they will be installed.
To protect against biological rotting, mold, wood bug and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compositions. You can use ready-made mixtures for internal work or independently prepare a 4% solution of sodium fluoride, having stirred it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to brush bars in several passes and give the material well dry.
Master starting to mount a wooden frame for drywall must have at hand:
In the process of creating a septum, except for bars, the sheets of HCL, mineral wool, primer, putty and finishing materials will be required.
Before starting to make a wooden frame for plasterboard, it is necessary to determine the plane in which it will be installed and designate the lines of its intersection with floor, ceiling and walls. At the same time, you need to remember the thickness of the GLC and take it into account when applying markup.
The starting point is chosen on the shella of the ceiling with one of the walls. Having attached to her plumb, find the corresponding mark near the floor. Both dots connect the vertical straight line. Plasterboard sheets are made with sufficient accuracy to use them to determine direct corner. To do this, apply the GLC an angle to the mark on the floor with a narrow side close to the wall. Continuing perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the following mark. Using a plumb or level rising to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines with a coated thread or pencil with a ruler.
The basis of the wooden frame is the bars located along its perimeter. They are attached according to the applied markup. The manufacture of the frame from the support bar is beginning, which is attached to the floor with a self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors depending on the base material. If the partition is a doorway, two vehicles are taken away from the passage to the walls.
When installing the frame, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the sheets of plasterboard are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets were in the middle of the bar.
In the same way, the bars are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then set vertical racks in the central part of the frame. Start with bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm more exterior door box.
Racks are installed strictly vertically ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling frame brushes. The mount is made by self-pressing with the use of steel corners or mounting plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure the reliability of communication. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm. The racks are connected by a horizontal jumper.
Between the opening and walls evenly with increments of 40 - 60 cm put another required number of racks. For large sizes of the partition, it will have to be closed with several GLC sheets. Plasterboard plasterboard on wooden rails so that the place of the joint of two sheets accounted for exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of the racks is made taking into account the future cutting and installation of HCL.
For the same reason, if the ceiling height is larger than the leaf of the plasterboard, the horizontal bars are fixed on the place of the joint of the first and second row.
Installation of HCL on a wooden frame starts from the bottom angle of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, we use screws on a 35 mm tree. They are installed in increasing to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. At the same time, the screws of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for high-quality wall decoration.
If it is necessary, cutting plasterboard is cut off with a construction knife, followed by dummy at the place of the cut. The sheets are kept together with the factory edges to each other, and the cropped edges draw up to walls and ceiling.
After installing GLC on one side of the partition it inner space For noise insulation filled with briquettes mineral Wat, foam or polystyrene foam. Electrical and informational cables are paved protected from damage to corrugated tubes. Then she is silent back side walls.
After the skeleton of the frame of the skeleton, it is necessary to progress, and then the joints and hats of the screws are well covered.
Mounted plasterboard sheets are handled by primer. After it drying, all the joints and hats of the screws are closed with a double layer of putty so that it turned out absolutely smooth surface. In two days, it is once again so stiff and glued wallpaper, ceramic tiles Or they apply any other type of finishing.
If the size of the room allows part of the space to take plasterboard, it is possible to close the uneven walls and the ceiling with it. To do this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.
When the wall is trimmed, it is necessary to repeat all the operations described for the mounting of the jumper by setting the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take the bars and rakes of a smaller cross section, since they additionally can be attached by brackets or anchor plates to the wall closed.
Some masters collect a frame on the smooth floor, and then expose it to the right place and secure. All cavities between bars fill heat insulating materials. Install plasterboard on the rail, trying to prevent the presence of joints over the door and window openings, because there will be no support vertical racks.
When installing the GLC on the ceiling, the frames frame are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and on the same level. After that, an inner lamp is performed with fixing it to extreme bars and to ceiling plates. Ceiling drywall has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install it.
