How the walls are prepared for painting: the order of work
When the walls are prepared for painting, the order of work must be observed extremely strictly, because this is the most important stage of construction and finishing work. Anyone who has made repairs at least once knows that even the smallest mistakes made at this stage can reduce the quality. renovation works generally. Non-professionals may consider that such preparation consists in cleaning surfaces from dirt and dust, after which painting can begin. The fact that this opinion is wrong, you can be convinced, barely starting painting an uneven surface. Therefore, the preparation of the walls must be taken seriously, observing all the norms and requirements for these types of work.
Priming the wall before painting
Preparing walls for painting: the main steps
Preparatory work is carried out in 4 stages. First of all, you need to prepare materials and tools:
Removing old oil paint with a drill with attachment
First, the walls need to be freed from the old finishing coating. The complexity of such work depends on the type of coating. If the walls were covered with wallpaper, they must be completely removed, the wall must be cleaned, puttyed and leveled. If the surface has been finished with water-based paint, it can be washed off with a damp sponge. This method will not work for removing oil paints and enamels. You will have to remove such paint with a spatula or a drill with a special drill. If you still cannot remove the old water-based paint, you can apply a fresh coat on top of it.
If the wall is covered with plaster, inspect it for defects. They need to be eliminated, otherwise the plaster can begin to crack and crumble over time. Coating voids can be identified by tapping the surface. If the sound is muffled, then there are cavities in the plaster layer. The coating in this area must be removed and replaced with a fresh one.
In the next step, the wall is primed. This does not require special skills, this is the simplest construction process. In this case, the work must be done carefully, choosing the means for this deep penetration... This primer has the best technical and operational characteristics, ensuring reliable adhesion of paint to the surface. The primer is usually applied with a brush or roller. To speed up the process, you can use a spray gun. After processing, the wall must be dried for 5-6 hours, after which you can proceed to the next step.
We carefully level and putty the walls before painting
At the third stage, the walls are leveled with putty. The way it is applied depends on the material from which the wall is built. Plastered bricks can be putty immediately. It is better to fix a nylon mesh on a concrete wall. This is the best option for those who are faced with renovation work for the first time. Walls in small rooms can be putty without it. It is quite easy to apply the filler using wire mesh. It is applied in a thin layer over the entire surface of the wall and a mesh is applied on top. The next sheet of mesh is overlapped. Wait until the filler is completely dry before applying the next coat, otherwise air-filled voids may form in the coating. To apply the putty on the wall, it is better to choose a 40 cm wide spatula - this is the most convenient size.
At the fourth stage, a finishing layer of putty is applied. Better to use Satengips. It is a material produced on the basis of finely ground gypsum with good adhesion to the surface. It is applied in a thin layer over the putty, dried well and covered with a primer.
Preparing drywall for painting
Painting is the best solution when choosing methods of finishing plasterboard structures. Preparatory work is not much different from processing a concrete or brick wall. The main task is to get a flat surface. This means that before applying paint, first of all, you need to close up the joints between the sheets of material, as well as eliminate surface defects and holes at the points of attachment to the guides.
To level the surface, you will need a putty. It is desirable to choose a ready-to-use material. You will also need to prepare a couple of spatulas: wide and narrow. To this list you need to add a reinforcing mesh and fine-grained sandpaper. Putty on drywall must be applied in a thin layer, after which a tape for reinforcement is installed, which is buried in the putty. Then, layer by layer, the surface is completely leveled. Wait until the putty is completely dry before applying the next coat. A hand-held lamp will facilitate the process of checking the quality of the work done.
Sanding drywall wall before painting
The most important stage in preparing drywall for painting with your own hands is grinding. This stage allows you to achieve a perfectly flat, smooth surface, which will improve the quality of painting. Sand the wall with sandpaper, passing all the putty places. In this case, it is not necessary to remove the putty to the base, otherwise appearance the structure will deteriorate. For the best paint adhesion and surface protection, the wall must be primed. The primer must be applied twice, after waiting for the first coat to dry. Now you can proceed to painting.
Matte paint will help hide all mistakes made during execution preparatory work.
Summarizing
Now you know how to prepare walls for painting with your own hands. The final step will be smoothing the surface with sandpaper and priming. Here, too, you need to control the quality of work. The preparation of the walls can be considered complete.
How can you remove old paint from walls?
What paint is better to use for wall decoration in an apartment?
How can you remove old wallpaper from the walls?
The procedure for preparing walls for painting
We offer you an approximate step-by-step instruction on the preparation of walls for their subsequent painting. It is imperative to carefully prepare the walls painted in the future for painting carefully and with special attention, taking into account every nuance, because the quality of painting surfaces of any type directly depends on the quality of the preparatory work: interiors and facades of buildings. Well, in order to do something once and not return to this issue after a short time, you should think carefully about everything and thoroughly prepare the surfaces for painting.
Stages of preparing walls for painting
Preparing walls for painting includes the following steps:
1st stage Preparation of the premises
1st stage: preparation of the premises for repair work is that the room should be freed from furniture and equipment as much as possible. If there is no way to take out all the things, you should definitely cover them with a special protective paint film, this must be done so that such things do not get dirty during painting, because putty, primer and paint can blurt out on them. Carpets and rugs must be rolled up and covered with construction film. If the floor is already ready and you will not redo it, do not forget to protect it from getting on it from various paintwork materials (paints and varnishes) used in the work. Small parts can be specially glued with masking tape (it looks like scotch tape, but white and, unlike it, does not leave any sticky marks after myself).
2nd stage Aligning the walls
2nd stage: alignment of walls. Cracks, depressions, holes in the wall should be repaired with plaster or special compounds. First, the starting plaster is used, and then the finishing plaster (detailed instructions are on the packaging with this material). If the walls are almost level, they need to be putty and then cleaned with sandpaper. Usually, after these procedures, the walls are washed and given the necessary time for them to dry completely.
3rd stage Priming the walls
3rd stage: the walls are primed with a special primer.
If the walls are not completely new, then you need to first clean them of layers old paint, then fill up all kinds of irregularities, pits, holes and holes, joints and cracks with a suitable plaster or putty. Then the walls are putty and primed. Be sure to remove old wallpaper from the walls. Remove the old wallpaper from the walls using an ordinary metal painting trowel or pre-soaking the wallpaper with water, and then removing it by hand or, again, with a construction trowel. It is imperative to read the instructions for priming the walls, it will tell you exactly how to make the solution (and whether it is needed), how many layers to apply, etc. The priming of the walls is usually done between all coatings so that they adhere better to each other. Keep this in mind and read the instructions.
When carrying out preparatory work, it is necessary to achieve the creation of a flat, smooth and always clean surface (dirt, dust, residues and scraps of something can ruin everything and you will have to repaint everything again). Therefore, write on a piece of paper what you will do, what materials you need for this, re-read their instructions and recommendations for use and go to the hardware store with a shopping list.
How to level the walls before painting
How to level the walls before painting... gypsum and decorative structural plaster, putty, gypsum plasterboards, textured paint. All these methods and materials are suitable, each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Gypsum plaster is also used today for leveling walls (it is very convenient to use). If the walls are very uneven, some people get out of this situation by covering the uneven walls with simply plasterboard plates, as a result of which a smooth wall is quickly and simply obtained. Decorative plaster or the currently popular structural paint can also be used as separate methods for leveling walls. Especially if the textured plaster has a rather deep structure.
Wall surfaces made of bast fiber, as well as gypsum plaster and gypsum plasterboards, must be primed in advance using a special putty and a flat brush suitable for this purpose. The primer will increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the paint to the surface of the walls treated during the repair process. Metal surfaces must be initially cleaned of rust and dirt and then covered with a special insulating paint that is resistant to moisture and water and will not corrode the metal, which is very important when creating a long-term coating.
During the work on the preparation of the walls for painting and during the painting process, it is impossible in any case to allow the presence of drafts in the room (by the way, as well as during painting). The temperature during the preparatory work of all stages must be from 18 ° C.
When the walls are already fully prepared for painting, you need to start preparing the choice of a suitable paint and varnish material, as well as the necessary tool for painting the walls: it can be a brush, roller or even a special spray gun, but this is a completely different story.
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How is the preparation of walls for painting done?
Technology for preparing walls for painting
The technology for preparing walls for painting depends on the quality of the surface. Basically, leveling is done first and then putty.
Today we will tell you how to prepare walls for painting and how to do it correctly. Also on the video in this article you can see a lot of useful and necessary information on this issue.
What are we going to paint
Painting can be used for almost all types of surfaces that are planned to be refined.
These can be the following surfaces:
Each of the options involves preparatory work:
Attention: Particular attention should be paid to the preparation of walls for painting, including the processes of leveling the walls and their putty. In this case, it makes sense to draw up the order of work in more detail and the instructions will be as follows:
Preparing the surface
Stage 1: leveling the walls and processing them
Preparing walls for painting with your own hands begins with their preparation. Even a simple wall painting requires very careful elimination of all existing flaws and irregularities.
Based on high requirements, you can resort to using the following options:
Grinding this coating
The first option can be used if the old base is not damaged and is strong enough. In this case, you can limit yourself to removing the old coating using sandpaper or a grinding wheel. After that, all old surfaces should be treated with an antiseptic and primed (see Primer for walls for painting - types and tasks). After all preparatory operations, the unevenness differences should not exceed 2 mm. Only then can you proceed to further work.
In the event that the old plane is rather uneven and not reliable, then it makes sense to replace the old plaster with a new one or sheathe the surface with drywall. In this case, all old, poorly adhered plaster is removed, and which option to resort to in the future depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences.
Aligning walls with drywall
If you need to apply a layer of more than 3 cm, then it is better to align with drywall (see Plasterboard cladding technology: material installation methods). After that, you can only do the putty. In this case, the price of work will be much cheaper. This option is often used when decorating premises in a new building.
Attention: After the preliminary work (especially plastering), the surface needs to dry well, after which it can be primed and allowed to dry again.
Stage 2: applying the starter putty
By themselves, surfaces such as a layer of plaster or sheets of drywall are not suitable for painting, so they must be covered with putty. The issue of painting plaster surfaces is especially relevant.
Stage 3: application of the finishing putty
Due to the fact that the finishing putty has high plasticity and no graininess, it is possible to obtain a surface that can be painted with it.
We do the finishing
Stage number 4: final preparatory stage painting
After sanding, the surface should be very thoroughly cleaned of dust. To do this, you can use a broom or vacuum cleaner. Each speck of dust left on the surface will make itself felt after painting.
It's good if this place is out of sight. After removing the dust, the surface is covered with one coat of primer. After complete drying, you can start painting.
Features of the preparation of other surfaces:
Choosing the type of paint
The preparation of the walls for wallpaper for painting is done, now you need to pick up the paint. In hardware stores, you can find several types of paint, differing in both characteristics and composition.
As a rule, all this is indicated on the packaging and you just need to carefully read the available information, the information received can become the basis for choosing the type of paint and using it in certain conditions. Instructions are included on each package.
They are also called water-based paints, since the main solvent is plain water... In this regard, they are also environmentally friendly, which means that they can be used in non-residential and residential premises.
Got wide use due to its low cost, ease of application and obtaining high-quality painted surfaces.
Acrylic paints are based on acrylic resin. It provides quality coverage construction surfaces and forms a smooth surface layer.
The main filler of such paints is latex rubber, due to which, as a result, a very smooth and high-quality surface is obtained.
After application, they form a smooth, vapor-permeable surface that quickly gets dirty, but at the same time, it is easy to clean. These paints are recommended for use in places or rooms where there is high humidity. These areas include: bathrooms, laundries, kitchens, cellars, toilets, etc.
Such paints can be more classified as universal, since they have the characteristics of several types of paints. Latex-acrylics are very popular.
Conclusion
Attention: When choosing one or another paint, special attention should be paid to such an indicator as vapor permeability. If there is a vapor-permeable facade, then it is impossible to use vapor-permeable paints for finishing, as this can lead to the destruction of the structural material of the building facade.
Preparing plastered walls for painting is not difficult, but if you want to do everything efficiently, then you will need to work. The cost will not be high, especially if you do everything yourself. And after looking at the photo it is fashionable to do everything.
Graduated from the Faculty of Architecture of Penza state institution architecture and construction. Over the past ten years, he has been a leading specialist in a large construction company in the city of Penza, engaged in the construction of multi-storey residential buildings. The total work experience in the specialty is 18 years. Advises on design issues, the choice of materials for interior and exterior decoration, technology of finishing works.
Despite the choice of finishing materials and decoration methods, the banal painting of the ceiling and walls is still not inferior to popularity. This affordable and aesthetic option is used not only by many home craftsmen, but also by experienced craftsmen.
Anyone can cope with painting surfaces, since the process under consideration does not require specific knowledge, complex tools or materials. However, some complexity is due to the fact that just before the painting process, it will be necessary to properly prepare a particular surface.
When renovating a room, the staining procedure will be as follows:
Painting work should be done carefully and paint should not be sprayed onto other surfaces and objects. In this case, we are talking about painting surfaces in the premises of an apartment or house, and for outdoor work, the conditions will be somewhat different.
Proper preparation determines to a large extent the success of a painting endeavor.
The painting process must be preceded by a preparation stage, which, as a rule, is a full-fledged technology and can consist of many actions.
Among the main stages of the preparatory work are:
Depending on the characteristics of the room and the surfaces to be painted, the stages of the preparatory work can be changed or supplemented. It is recommended to prudently protect other surfaces and objects located in the room by covering them with foil, paper or other material.
In the case when a simple painting of the wall is planned, then putty is necessary to eliminate all kinds of irregularities and defects.
Surfaces made of plasterboard and cement-sand plaster, by definition, are not suitable for painting. But after carrying out the starting putty and the subsequent putty with reinforcement, you can finish the preparation with a finishing layer and make the surface finally suitable for painting.
The operation in question must be performed correctly and taking into account the characteristics of a particular material.
Grouting is carried out at the final stage of the plastering work so that the surface is well leveled. In addition, irregularities left after the previous finish are eliminated. Grouting is carried out using a special tool called, respectively, "grater", specialized mixtures and in different ways implementation of movements.
The types of grasses are different and among the leading options it can be noted:
The composition of the grout mix will vary depending on what type of finish will be applied later.
With the help of trowels, two practiced methods of grouting are common: round and dispersed. In one case, circular movements are performed, and in the other, movements are carried out vertically.
Priming is an operation that precedes painting. The purpose of the primer is to prepare the base for the subsequent application of finishing materials in order to protect the layer and improve the properties of the coating. This is one of the main points, which can consist of several stages.
The fungus should be removed in any case, since it can harm both the finishing material and the directly considered surface. Initially, this is done with a spatula, and then, the damaged areas are rubbed with sandpaper.
After this, processing will be required with a special solution prepared at home or purchased at a hardware store. After processing the wall or ceiling with a solution from mold and mildew, you can proceed to the primer.
If you wish, you can paint almost any surface, however, most of them, depending on the material used and the characteristics of the coating, will require preparatory measures.
The paint often does not hide, but on the contrary emphasizes the defects visible in the wood. Thus, it is essential to properly prepare the wood surface before painting.
It should be borne in mind that wooden walls, as a rule, require a lot of effort in preparation for subsequent painting. The list of required operations may exceed a dozen actions, including:
When preparing concrete for a new painting, it is necessary to remove not only the layer of the previous coating, but also dust, dirt and stains. This is easily done with tools, solvents, and all kinds of specialized tools. After that, the surface of the concrete should be stripped of its rough structure by using pumice stone or sandpaper. This is followed by priming and putty.
Given the characteristics of a material such as drywall, its surface must be well leveled.
Surface preparation for painting during repair includes:
Paint is a rather capricious finishing material. Neglecting the preparation process for coloring can lead to a complete distortion of the final result.
When decorating walls, there are a number of rules that are recommended to be followed:
The article presents ways of painting surfaces, considers the necessary preparatory measures and actions are carried out to prepare surfaces from certain materials.
Probably one of the most enjoyable stages in the renovation process at home is the process of painting a room. When the walls are leveled, for example with gypsum plasterboards, covered with a primer and a layer of starting and finishing putty, the room is already pleasing to the eye. The walls have clearly changed, the corners are even, the surface is smooth. The next step will be the choice of further finishes. Consider how walls are painted with water-based paint with a roller or spray gun.
The choice of wall decoration in favor of using paint opens up a whole range of additional opportunities and advantages:
For high-quality painting of walls with water-based paint, all stages are important, special attention is paid to checking the surface. On plastered or plastered walls must be flat, the surface cleaned, dry and smooth, without cracks and chips. The detected defects are sealed with a finishing putty and cleaned, this will help to reduce paint consumption.
Next, the surface is primed. Although the paints contain an adhesive base, the primer is necessary to eliminate dust, increase adhesion and a more uniform paint layer. The room is freed up as much as possible, the floor, windows and the remaining objects are covered with a protective film.
If available, you can use a spray gun with a nozzle diameter of 2 mm or more, otherwise excessive dilution of the water-based paint with water will be required. The spray gun reduces consumption, the paint lays down more evenly, it is convenient when painting corners. The only thing is that not all spray guns work with water-based paints and minimal skills are required, otherwise the paint will flow down the surface.
Water-based paint is mixed, manually or using an electric slow-speed drill with a mixer nozzle, until the same consistency is obtained.
If necessary, it is diluted with water, if a pigment dye is added, then it is stirred until a uniform shade.
When adding a dye, it must be borne in mind that when it dries, its color may lighten; it is better to apply a small layer on the wall section and, as it dries, determine its proportion in the paint.
For indoor work, it is customary to use interior paint, facade paint is not recommended, arguing for the presence of harmful substances in its composition. After a competent consultation in a building materials store, you can pick up a harmless facade paint and paint it, it has a high viscosity and will give a more saturated color.
A layer of water-based paint dries in about a couple of hours, there should be at least two layers.
As the second layer dries, the need for additional painting of walls or individual areas is determined.
In case the walls are tinted in the future, it is better to leave a certain amount of paint, especially if a dye has been added, since it will be problematic to choose the right shade in the future.
1. Paints and varnishes
2. Techniques for performing work when painting
Painting technology
4. Equipment and tools
Conclusion
Literature
Introduction
A good body paintwork not only gives the car a beautiful appearance, but also protects it from corrosion and premature deterioration.
The practice of operating cars in different countries showed that the most effective ways the fight against corrosion of the body is their high-quality painting and additional anti-corrosion treatment.
The purpose of this work is to describe the painting technology, basic tools and equipment used in this. In addition, it is necessary to indicate a list and a brief description of paints and varnishes, since the quality of coatings depends on this.
paints and varnishes
Paints and varnishes are divided into basic (paints, enamels, primers and putties) and auxiliary (solvents, thinners, removers, preparations for painting, coating care products, etc.)
Distinctive properties of enamels for painting passenger cars are a variety of beautiful colors, increased gloss and preservation of a decorative appearance during long-term use of coatings in various climatic conditions.
When painting bodies of cars for the outer layers of the coating at manufacturing enterprises, mainly synthetic, melamine alkyd and, less often, nitrocellulose enamels are used.
Melamine-alkyd enamels are made on the basis of mixtures of melamine-formaldehyde and alkyd resins. Drying occurs as a result of the evaporation of solvents and the polycondensation of resins.
The enamels are applied by pneumatic spraying in a spray booth, as well as by spraying in an electrostatic field.
Nitrocellulose enamels are suspensions of pigments in nitro lacquers with the addition of plasticizers and resins. Drying occurs at room temperature (18-22 ˚С).
Nitro enamel coatings are relatively resistant to mineral oils, gasoline, and weak alkaline solutions. Nitroenamels are applied using paint sprayers, less often with a brush.
For painting the bodies of cars "Zhiguli", "Moskvich", "Zaporozhets", "Volga" they use enamels of the brands ML-12, ML-197, ML-1110, ML-1121, ML-1198.
2) Primers and rust converters.
Primers are first applied to the surface prepared for painting. They are the bonding coating between the metal and subsequent layers of enamel.
They have increased adhesion (adhesion). Primers can be applied by spray, brush, dipping, electrospray and electrodeposition. Its thickness is 15 ... 20 microns.
Primers are available with inert pigments, passivating, phosphating and protective.
Primers with inert pigments do not interact with the film former and do not protect the surface from corrosion, but mechanically prevent moisture penetration.
Such primers are GF-021, FL-OZK, etc. The first is used for body repair painting.
Passivating primers contain metal chromates or other pigments that react with moisture and passivate the metal.
These include: GF-017, GF-031, etc.
This type of primer is a red lead primer, which is often used to protect underbody and fenders.
Phosphating primers differ in that phosphoric acid is also added to their composition. These primers have good adhesion to ferrous and non-ferrous metals. The best layer thickness of phosphating primers is 8 ... 12 microns. The main components of such primers are a film-forming base and an acidic thinner.
Protective primers protect the metal surface by introducing metal dust into their composition, the potential of which is lower than that of iron (zinc, for example).
These include: PS-1, EP-057, etc.
Primers - rust converters are used to prepare a corroded body surface for painting without removing corrosion products.
These include E-VA-01, E-VA-0112, etc. They are applied at a temperature not lower than 15 ° C by spraying or brushing in 1-2 layers.
3) Putties
Putties are used to eliminate and level out imperfections on the painted surface of the body. They are a pasty composition of varnish (drying oil), pigments and filler (chalk). Putties are applied with a spatula (spatula) when sealing large flaws or in the form of a liquid with a paint sprayer with a large nozzle.
For spraying, it is diluted with thinner.
Putties NTs-007, NTs-008, NTs-009 are intended for leveling primed metal surfaces, as well as for correcting bodies on the revealing layer of enamel.
PF-002 putty is used for general and local puttying in the absence of hot drying of subsequent layers of the coating.
MS-006 putty serves to correct small defects on the primed surface.
Putty paste is prepared in portions before direct use, due to the fast gelatinization and hardening time.
The mass ratio of the semi-finished putty and hardener should be 100: 3.2. The putty has a shelf life of 1 year.
4) Solvents, thinners and washes
They are used to paints and varnishes had the required working viscosity.
They are one-component organic volatile and colorless liquids or mixtures thereof in various combinations of components.
Washes are used to remove paintwork.
They are mixtures of various solvents, under the influence of which the coating swells, swells and lags behind the metal. The most widely used washes based on organic solvents. The industry produces washes of the brands SD, AFT-1, SP-6, SP-7, SPS-1, SPS-2, SNB-9, "Old paint remover", "Auto wash of old paint", etc.
5) Materials for grinding and polishing
Sandpaper is usually used to smooth out irregularities on the surface of the body.
To find out what the sanding paper is for, what grit is the sanding material and whether it can be used for wet or dry sanding, you need to know the designation of the sanding skins, which is indicated on the non-working side.
An example of the designation of a sanding paper 1820x20 U2G 63S M63 CA GOST 13344-79.
This entry means that it is a waterproof cloth-based skin (GOST 13344-79), made of micro-grinding powder, intended for grinding putties, primers, plastics, enamels, in a roll 1820 mm wide, 20 m long, on fabric - twill (U2G) , from silicon carbide (63 C), from grinding material with a grain size of not more than 63 microns (M 63), fixed with synthetic resin (C), with the number of defects on the working surface not more than 0.5% (A).
Grinding paste VAZ-1 is used for grinding damaged and repaired coatings painted with melamine alkyd enamels.
It is a suspension of alumina in a mixture of mineral and vegetable oils, turpentine, kerosene, surfactants and water.
Apply the paste to a flannel or tsigeyka and grind it by hand or with a grinder.
The composition of polishing pastes is a mixture of fine abrasives, surfactants, solvents, mineral oils, wax and water. Abrasive is needed for polishing, wax - for filling and smoothing microcracks and pores of the coating. Solvents help remove grease stains and other contaminants.
Polishing water is intended for the final finishing of nitro-enamel body coatings and maintaining their shine during vehicle operation.
Techniques for performing work when painting
The service life of the refurbished paintwork depends on the quality of all the work done in the painting process. When preparing the surface of a car for painting, it is very important to carefully perform straightening work on metal, welding, soldering and stripping, i.e. to give the body surface the correct geometric shape.
High-quality straightening work simplifies painting and increases the durability of the restored paintwork.
To carry out the full scope of work on body painting, the following operations are performed:
- prepare the car for painting and acquire necessary materials;
- prepare the body surface for painting;
- prepare paints and varnishes;
- primer, putty, grind the outer surfaces of the body, apply the first layer of enamel, locally putty and grind;
- apply several layers of enamel;
- dry the coating;
- grind and polish;
- control the quality of painting;
- apply anticorrosive mastics.
1) Preparing the car for painting and purchasing the necessary materials.
Before you start painting, you should purchase materials and equipment.
About 90% of labor costs are for preparatory work and only 10% for painting and drying.
Before proceeding with the restoration of the coating, the car is thoroughly washed.
Then, if necessary, carry out a partial disassembly: remove decorative parts with an electroplated coating, rubber gaskets, etc. If the body is repainted completely, and drying is performed at elevated temperature in the oven, then remove wheels, glass, upholstery, etc.
2) Preparation of the body surface for painting
Preparation of the body surface provides for the following works: removal of old coating and corrosion products, degreasing, phosphating, protection of surfaces that cannot be painted, etc.
Removal of the old coating should be carried out in cases where the body or its individual parts have been repainted several times or have been painted with nitro enamel, as well as in the presence of significant underfilm corrosion damage, swelling of the coating, chips and scratches, etc.
Metal structures are highly durable and resistant to adverse environmental factors.
Despite this, they are also susceptible to destruction and need professional protection. According to experts, the annual damage from corrosion of equipment and metal structures in developed countries reaches 2-4 percent of GDP, which is simply a huge amount.
For this reason, corrosion protection is the most important stage in the processing of metal and alloy products.
Yes, and the appearance performs important function- it attracts attention and creates the first positive impression of the object.
The main method of protection is painting of metal structures quality formulations. Such processing is able to effectively protect the metal from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, moisture, sharp changes temperatures negatively affecting the material.
This operation should be performed by professionals who thoroughly know each stage of work, can ensure high quality performance, which will positively affect the durability of structures.
The most common processing option is the use of an apparatus high pressure(AED), which allows you to achieve a perfect surface. Sometimes its use is impossible for a number of reasons, and then the process takes place using the manual method - rollers and brushes.
Painting metal structures with any of these options will reduce the risk of corrosion, make them durable and attractive in appearance. But this is true only when the work is performed by high-class specialists.
This is done with metal brushes and power tools. If it is necessary to process large area, it is possible to use the sandblasting method.
For these procedures, special formulations are used, which are applied using AED, brushes and rollers.
This stage prevents the appearance of rust, prepares the base for further application of paint, which will have better adhesion to the surface, which will increase the service life of the structure.
A professional approach to painting metal structures allows you to achieve a long service life, reduce the cost of repairing individual elements that become unusable due to corrosion, get an attractive appearance of any infrastructure object - a crane, a bridge, a staircase, a roof, a high-voltage tower, an advertising structure, etc.
It is possible to use the method of industrial mountaineering, which will save money on the services of special equipment.
Polyvinyl acetate water-based paints VA-17, VA-27, VA-27PG and styrene-butadiene paints KCh-26A, KCh-26 are widely used for interior painting on wood, plaster, cardboard and other porous materials, on a primed metal surface, as well as on old durable oil coatings, enamel and emulsion paints.
Old surfaces previously painted with lime and glue paints must be completely free of paint layers.
To do this, the surface is moistened with water and the soaked paint layer is cleaned off with steel scrapers.
With the old oil, as well as polyvinyl acetate and styrene-butadiene paint, only the fragile and lagging paint coating is removed. A durable paint is washed away from contamination with warm soapy or ammonia water, and then clean water... Only hairline cracks can be left on cleaned surfaces, which can be sealed with putty.
Deeper cracks require compulsory jointing and sealing with mortar, so that in these places there is no rupture of the filler and paint layers with subsequent delamination.
Plastered surfaces before painting are leveled with putty on a previously primed surface.
Under the glue-oil putty, polyvinyl acetate paint diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio is used as a primer; when using a polyvinyl acetate or cement-chalk putty, priming is not performed, and the surface is abundantly wetted with water.
The surface is putty after the primer layer has dried, while, in order to prevent cracking of the putty, it must be completely applied in layers no more than 0.5 mm thick, and each subsequent layer can be applied after the previous one has dried.
After the putty has dried, the surface is cleaned with a pumice stone or emery cloth.
It should be borne in mind that on surfaces previously primed with vitriol, after painting with polyvinyl acetate and styrene-butadiene water-based paints, dark spots are obtained. To check the presence of vitriol soil, a test painting is performed. In the event of the appearance of dark spots on the painted surface, it is primed oil paint in the color of the color scheme, and then after the drying of the oil primer layer, water-based paint is applied over it.
Sheet dry plaster in the presence of small depressions and potholes on it is leveled with lime-gypsum putty.
Before painting, old gypsum parts are cleaned of old paint layers, dust and dirt.
Old wooden surfaces, previously painted with oil or synthetic paints, are cleaned only of fragile paint, primed with paint diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio, and after the priming layer has dried, the surface is completely putty with glue-oil putty.
Preparation of new wood surfaces is carried out as usual.
Cracks and crevices should be smoothed out with a lubricant and drying oil, and after the primer has dried, they should be completely covered with glue-oil putty.
Before use water-based paints must be thoroughly mixed and filtered through a fine sieve. For better adhesion of the paint layer, plastered surfaces of plaster and wood, as well as gypsum parts and dry plaster, are painted with paint diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio.
Then it is painted twice with ordinary undiluted paint.
To obtain a lasting color, each subsequent layer of paint should be applied after the previous layer has completely dried. Drying time of each layer is 2-3 hours. For uniform coloring, it is recommended to apply paint surfaces with rollers or paint spray guns. It is allowed to apply paints with hand-held brushes, but it should be remembered that brushes give a noticeable streak, therefore, painting with brushes is done with fluting or facing.
Since dried polyvinyl acetate water-based paint cannot be washed off with water and is difficult to remove with solvents, it is necessary to place brushes, rollers and guns in a container with water during breaks in work, and immediately rinse all tools and accessories thoroughly with water after finishing work.
Any paint that gets on the glass during operation should also be washed off immediately with water or wiped off with a wet cloth. If necessary, dried paints can be removed: polyvinyl acetate - with acetone, and styrene-butadiene - with turpentine.
The consumption of polyvinyl acetate water-based paints per 1 m2 of the painted surface is: with a simple color 270-320 g, with an improved one - 350-400 g.
Where to buy "Painting with water-based paints"?
Painting walls or ceilings is one of the types of finishing of the premises of the house, which is usually performed after the completion of the main construction work and the installation of all communications. Painting can be done with your own hands, and in order to do it correctly, you can use the information in this article.
> Surface preparation;
> Sequence of work and tools;
> The correct choice of color;
Before painting walls or ceilings, as a rule, they are leveled (using plaster or drywall), putty and primer.
The higher the requirements for the quality of painting the walls, the more thoroughly the walls must be prepared. For example, in wooden houses from logs or timber, the walls from the inside before painting are best leveled with drywall, putty with finishing compound and primed.
The same applies to plastered walls made of other materials.
The primer is usually liquid, it is bought ready-made or prepared by yourself. When priming, all small pores in the plaster or other painted surface are filled with a liquid solution.
With the help of putty, the surface of the walls and ceiling is leveled, preparing them for painting.
The putty composition is starting and finishing. It can also be bought ready-to-use or made by yourself from a dry mix.
The putty is applied in strips or by mutually perpendicular movements of the spatula, in two layers.
The first layer is the starting layer, when the putty or, more correctly, the putty fills in all the irregularities.
It is allowed to dry, and then sanded with coarse, medium-grained sandpaper. The second layer is the finishing one, after drying it is sanded with fine-grained emery paper.
If you decide to paint the ceiling and walls, then paint should be started from the ceiling and upper parts of the walls. It is better to do this work together: one paints, and the other does auxiliary work.
To perform painting, you can use various tools, depending on the required level of quality of work and the availability of the tools themselves.
Wall painting can be done with a brush, roller or spray.
Performing painting with each of these tools has its own characteristics, which will be discussed below:
Spray paints evenly, holding the spray gun at the same distance from the wall to be painted (250-300 mm) and strictly perpendicular to it. On the line of joints with an already painted surface or ceiling, a plywood shield, a diverter ruler is used, or a special masking tape is glued in order to prevent paint compounds from getting on them.
When painting walls or other surfaces with a brush, it should be driven in one place no more than two times. Paint is collected only on the edge of the brush. With an excess of paint, its smudges are possible, and with a lack of paint, you have to rub the paint strongly into the surface, as a result of which stripes appear on it.
For convenience, the paint is poured into a special container with a flat bottom.
When painting the walls of premises, the choice of a suitable color is not the last thing.
When choosing a color for painting walls, one should take into account the orientation of the rooms to the cardinal points, their sizes. An important role in choosing the color of painting the walls is played by the purpose of the rooms, the presence and color of furniture, the color of the curtains.
South-facing rooms are best painted in colder colors.
For rooms facing north, warmer colors are recommended.
Below you can watch a video on how you can paint the ceiling with your own hands:
How to decorate the ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands
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Before opening the can of primer, dust it off.
Dilute with the supplied hardener. Take the proportion of the mixture that is recommended in the manufacturer's instructions.
Please note that the primer diluted with hardener must be used within three to four hours, so choose the amount of material in advance. For example, a car fender needs about 150 grams of soil.
After pouring the prepared mixture into the spray gun, adjust the torch of the apparatus on some piece of sheet material.
Pull the tool trigger quickly. The result should be a spot in the form of a vertically elongated oval. The shape of the spot can be adjusted with the side handle of the spray gun, the amount of the outgoing composition changes at the end of the gun.
Start with the primer from the edge of the body and move gradually forward.
Please note that the speed of movement of the tool should be the same, direct it at an angle of 45-60 ° in the direction of the still unprimed surface of the car.
Overlap the layers by half, in other words, ½ of the painted strip is re-treated with soil during further manipulations.
If there are small unpainted areas, do not go back there, cover them with a second primer coat. It is applied after 10-15 minutes. The optimal number of layers is 2-3, it is not recommended to apply more, as the material may shrink.
If all the preparatory work has been completed successfully, and the surface of the car has become smooth, proceed with the finishing painting.
But before that, the primed body must dry well. If drying occurs at a natural temperature regime, then it takes at least one day.
The correct technology of painting the machine assumes that the primed surface must be matted with emery cloth №№Р800-Р1000. Then go over it with gray tape-bright to reduce the risks.
Finally, degrease the prepared body with a napkin dipped in anti-silicone.
After it dries, wipe the car from the stuck dust with a damp cloth.
Painting process - finishing layers
Prepare paint for work. Add the hardener to it in the ratio indicated in the instructions on the package, as well as the solvent to the desired consistency.
After you mix the composition well, pass it through a funnel with a sieve and pour it into the spray gun.
Apply the first finishing coat thinly.
Wait 15-20 minutes and spray the second coat. It should be tight enough. The main thing here is a sense of proportion, on the one hand, the surface should be painted completely, on the other, there is a danger of getting smudges.
If they do occur, then they can be removed when the paint dries.
After the second coat has been sprayed, wait for it to dry. On average, this is 15-20 minutes, but much here depends on the temperature in the room and on the quality of the solvent.
Auto fender varnishing
The third layer is made more liquid, which is necessary to create gloss.
These are all stages of work when painting a car with acrylic. If metallic is applied, then, as the car painting technology shows: video, you will need to cover the body with several more layers of varnish, usually two or three.
In fact, varnish is the same paint, but its polymer composition does not include pigments. Therefore, the techniques for their application are approximately the same. After waiting for the allotted time, while the last coat of paint dries, apply the first (do not forget, thin) coat of varnish.
After it's dry, spray on a thinner second coat.
Apply a third coat if necessary.
It often happens that after spraying varnish, defective areas of the paintwork remain on the surface of the body. Such damage: shagreen, smudges, adhering particles of dust and dirt, you can remove during the subsequent polishing of the car.
Tasks.
Carry out repair painting of a car body part.
The report should contain operations for carrying out repair painting of a car body part.
Test questions.
What types of bodies are there?
2. What methods are used to correct defects in the paintwork of car body parts?
3. What types of paints and varnishes do you know?
Main sources:
Regulations:
GOST R 51709-2001 (as amended in 2007) “Motor vehicles. Safety Requirements for Technical Condition and Test Methods ”.
2. Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of 11.04.2001 No. 290 "On approval of the rules for the provision of services (performance of work) for the maintenance and repair of motor vehicles" (as amended by
Resolutions of the Government of the Russian Federation of January 23, 2007 No. 43).
3. Federal Law "On Licensing Certain Types of Activities" dated 08.08.2001 No. FZ-128 (as amended on 29.10.2010 with amendments and additions that entered into force on 01.01.2011)
Educational literature:
1. Vlasov, V. M. Maintenance and repair of cars [Text]: a textbook for use in the educational process educational institutions implementing programs of secondary vocational education.
- 8th ed .; stereotype. - M .: Academy, 2013.
2. Vinogradov, V. M... Technological processes of car repair: tutorial for use in the educational process of educational institutions implementing programs of secondary vocational education. - 4th ed .; revised - M .: Academy, 2011.
3. Vinogradov, V. M... Technological processes of car repair [Text]: a textbook for use in the educational process of educational institutions implementing programs of secondary vocational education. - 6th ed .; revised
- M .: Academy, 2013.
Additional sources:
1. Kirichenko, N.B. Automotive operational materials [Text]: a textbook for students of institutions of environments.
Prof. education of students in the specialties "Maintenance and repair of road transport", "Mechanization of agriculture." -7th ed .; erased. - M .: Academy, 2011
2. Turevsky, I. S. Car maintenance and repair. Introduction to the specialty [Text]: a textbook for students of secondary prof.
education, training. by special 1705 Maintenance and repair of motor vehicles. - M .: FORUM; INFRA-M, 2009.
3. Gelenov, A.A. Automotive operating materials [Text]: a textbook for students of institutions of speed.
professional education .-: M .: Academy, 2010
1 Internet version of the magazine "Behind the wheel" [Electronic resource]. - Access mode: http://www.zr.ru, free.
- Title from the screen
2 Repair, maintenance, operation of cars [Electronic resource]. - Access mode: http://www.autoprospect.ru, free. - Title from the screen
3 Internet magazine [Electronic resource]. - Access mode: http://www.drive.ru, free.
- Title from the screen
4 Library of the motorist [Electronic resource]. - Access mode: http://www.viamobile.ru/index.php, free. - Title off screen
Electronic library "Rukont"
1. Strekalovskaya, A.D. Repair and Maintenance motors and generators: guidelines to practical work / A.D.
Strekalovskaya, A.V. Rachinskikh, T.A. Saneeva; Orenburg state un-t. - Orenburg: OSU, 2011 .-- 32 p.
2. A. A. Gladkiy D52 Maintenance and minor repairs car with your own hands. A guide for beginners. - SPb .: BHV-Petersburg, 2011 .-- 208 p .: ill. - (Autocourse)
3. Guskov, Yu.V. Operational materials: guidelines for the study of the discipline and assignments for test work/ Yu.V.
Guskov, A.P. Ukhanov, O.A. Tsarev. - Penza: RIO PGSKhA, 2012 .-- 90 p.
Annex 1
Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation
Federal State Budgetary Educational
institution of higher professional education
Ryazan State Agrotechnological University
named after P.A.Kostychev "
Faculty pre-university training and secondary vocational education
Department " Technical operation transport "
Study Practice Report
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Preparing walls for painting is quite an important point. After all, this directly affects the appearance and ensures the durability of the coating. After all, if the most expensive paint is applied on a plane without preparation, it will not last long.
We will consider how the preparation for painting the walls is done. You can also watch the video in this article and photos that will help you not to miss anything.
In the production of finishing work, the preparation of walls for painting is extremely important. If painting is chosen as the finish, then this is an almost universal option, suitable for most possible surfaces.
They can be conditionally divided into four groups:
Attention: Preparation of the surface in different cases will be required in different ways. In most cases, however, preparing wall surfaces for painting will involve leveling and filler. The responsible preparatory process is worth considering in more detail.
The smoother the painted surface of the walls, the easier it will be to paint on it and the better the result will be. It is possible to achieve the most flat surface, and there are several ways for this.
It is worth considering the most popular:
When choosing a method of preparation, you must also be guided by personal preferences and financial capabilities.
Attention: In any case, after leveling the surfaces, they should be carefully primed. Before proceeding, the primer must be completely dry.
This usually takes about six hours, sometimes with high humidity the process can be delayed. In this case, you should not rush, and you can continue preparatory work only when the surface is completely dry.
Plasterboard sheets or a solution of sand and cement are either porous materials or absorb moisture well. It is impossible to paint such surfaces, since the paint will not lie flat, in addition, the most insignificant irregularities will be clearly visible, and even a slight color change is possible.
To avoid such troubles, you will need to apply a layer of putty.
Note a few basic rules here:
Attention: When working with a spatula, there are always narrow protruding strips of mortar along its edges. You should not waste extra time and effort on smoothing them, the main thing is to make sure that there are no large depressions or places where there is no solution.
Allow the putty to dry completely before continuing. This usually takes 6 to 8 hours. After making sure that the surface is dry, you can start sanding. A coarse abrasive mesh is quite suitable for these works, the grain size should be 120 mm. Irregularities and visible imperfections are removed at this stage.
After completing this work, the surface is still not ready for painting and remains too grainy.
This process is needed to get the most flat surface, into which the paint will not be absorbed. The composition of the finishing putty, as a rule, contains non-coarse components of fine fractions, such as sand.
When performing such work, you should remember about several important recommendations:
Attention: Dust remaining after sanding will need to be removed. This work can be done using a clean cloth or a regular vacuum cleaner. Never wipe the surface with wet materials.
You can use a roller or brushes to complete the primer work. As a rule, one coat of primer is sufficient. The time it takes for the composition to dry is usually indicated on the package. For mixtures from different manufacturers, the drying period of the primer may be different. It is impossible to paint the surface before it is completely dry.
As a rule, a mesh or sandpaper is used for grinding.
Each of the options has both its advantages and disadvantages, and everyone can choose the most suitable for themselves:
If the choice is made in favor of the first option, then close attention will need to be paid to such an indicator as graininess. The starting layer of the putty can be processed with coarse sandpaper. For example, indicators P60 - P80 are suitable. For sanding the finishing layer, you will need fine-grained sandpaper (from P100).
Attention: In addition to the grater, a sanding sponge is useful (it must have beveled edges) - this tool will process the corners. This sponge can be replaced by any auxiliary items, for example, a fine-grained skin folded in half.
One might get the impression that this is a primitive process, however, it has some subtleties and tricks. Let's get acquainted with the correct sanding of the wall after the applied putty:
Wait for the filler to dry completely. Check its condition and only then continue to work. He must acquire sufficient strength.
Preparing for painting wooden walls with your own hands is done a little differently. You cannot use different versions of plaster or putty for them - you just need to properly sand the surfaces, clean out the detected dust and some excess wood pile after work.
So:
Attention: It is important to remember that the process of preparing the walls before painting is extremely important and therefore should be treated very responsibly. Its quality will influence the visual impression created by the entire finish, its resistance to time and environmental influences.
Preparing the walls for painting with water-based paint, or any other, does not matter. Preparation is done anyway. The price of these works is not high and the instructions will help to do them quickly and efficiently.
Modern interior design provides a huge range of different options decorative finishing walls. Among them: paneling, tiling, wallpapering. One of the most popular technologies is painting walls. This option has a lot of advantages. First of all, there is a wide selection colors and the ability to quickly and inexpensively radically change the interior style of the room. But the few apartment owners who decided to make repairs on their own know how to properly prepare walls for painting.
The specificity of the staining technology is that the wall must be prepared with great care. A thin layer of paint and varnish composition will not be able to hide even the smallest flaws in the painted surface. The technology for preparing walls for painting depends on the type of surface to be painted, the material from which it is made, and the type of paint. In general terms, preparation for painting walls in a new building without preliminary consists of the following steps:
The wall, which has already been processed by any means, must be cleaned from the old finish right down to the very base. Only after that you can start preparing the wall for painting.
Plastering involves preliminary preparation of the bearing surface. Depending on the material, it may differ slightly in nuances.
Before preparing the walls for painting, you should familiarize yourself in detail with all stages of work. In a new home with raw walls, you need to determine how smooth they are. To do this, use a long building level or a plumb line. By measuring the entire wall area with the instrument in both vertical and horizontal directions, you can get a complete picture of all deviations from the norm.
According to the SNiP regulations, the permissible value of the "blockage" of the wall is no more than 0.5 cm for every 3 m. In case of a larger deviation, it is necessary to align with plaster.
For the convenience of work, beacons are installed along the entire wall - marks made of even metal tubes or wooden slats. They are installed on the mortar patches as follows:
When installing intermediate beacons, they should not be pressed tightly against the taut twine. Otherwise, there is a possibility of its gradual deviation outward. There should be a gap of 1-2 mm between the beacons and the thread.
Then a plaster mortar is laid out on the wall and left for 0.5-1 hour. After it dries slightly, it should be pulled out using a rule or a wide spatula, and the beacons should be removed. After 12 hours, when the plaster has set, the final leveling is carried out with a metal grout or a wooden screed. Plaster mortar can be purchased at a hardware store in the form of a dry mixture, or made by hand - the proportions of various solutions are given in the table.
It is easiest to plaster a brick wall, thanks to its embossed structure, to which the mortar clings well. In this case, the plaster can be applied directly to the wall, only by cleaning it from dirt and treating it with a primer. The need and technique for a primer when preparing walls for painting with your own hands will be discussed below.
For high-quality plaster of monolithic reinforced concrete walls, it may be necessary to increase its adhesion. The modern technology of casting the monolith provides for the use of collapsible formwork made of sheet steel or laminated panels. This makes it easier to install and dismantle the formwork, as well as get a smoother surface.
But too flat concrete surface has its drawbacks. The wall, smooth to a glossy sheen, has a very low adhesion index - adhesion with any finishing compound. As a result, coating with any solution will not be durable.
Building - concrete monolith To increase adhesion concrete wall pretreated with various abrasive or percussion instruments: grinder, mason's pick, hatchet, chisel, etc. As a result, the surface is covered with incisions or a rough structure.
Another option for increasing the hitch is plaster mesh... It is attached to the concrete by means of dowel-nails and serves as a strong base for the plaster mortar.
Wooden surfaces have poor adhesion to plaster solutions. This is due to the physical characteristics of the wood, as a result of which any mixtures will not stick to it.
The wooden wall must be additionally prepared for plastering. For this, plastering metal or fiberglass is also used, or shingles are stuffed crosswise on the surface - thin wooden slats.
The mesh can differ in the diameter of the cells: the thicker the plaster layer, the larger the mesh should be used.
If the concrete surface is sufficiently flat, you can completely do without applying the base plaster, but it is not recommended to place paint and varnish solutions directly on the cement surface, be it monolithic reinforced concrete or cement plaster. First, they have a large number of small pores. Secondly, their surface is not as smooth as we would like: at the joints of the formwork panels, sags and joints inevitably appear, and along the entire area of the wall there are areas of small shells and other defects.
To remove sagging and joints, the walls are sanded for painting. As a result of the high porosity of concrete, paint consumption is sharply increased due to its increased absorption. To avoid waste of material and repair minor defects, putty is used. It has a fine structure, and when applied to a plastered surface, it makes it smoother and smoother.
Putty differs from plaster in its composition. Cement, gypsum or polymers are used as a binder in its production. A finely dispersed structure is obtained through the use of fine-grained quartz sand and chemical plasticizers as a filler.
The putty solution goes on sale either in the form of ready-to-use formulations or in the form of dry mixes. The method for preparing dry compositions is quite simple: water is poured into a bucket, to which the mixture is added in the required amount. The proportions for the preparation of the solution are usually given in the instructions for use placed on the package. You will need the following tools for the wall:
Work should be started from one of the upper corners so that drops and splashes do not fall on the already treated surface during work. The finished mixture is scooped out of the container with a narrow spatula and evenly distributed over the entire length of the wide tool. After that, with smooth, sweeping movements, the putty is applied to the wall.
Plastering with finishing compounds can be used as a material for processing immediately prior to painting. They differ from basic plasters in a thinner filler structure and in this respect they are closer to putty solutions.
The thickness of the application of both putties and finishing plaster mixtures should not exceed 3 - 5 mm. After the solution has dried, the entire surface treated with a putty is cleaned with a grout or fine sandpaper. To speed up the process, you can use a grinder and trowel.
When working with it, use protective goggles and a respirator to prevent dust from entering the mucous membranes and respiratory organs.
The preparation of walls for painting provides for their mandatory treatment with primers. The primer can achieve several results:
Adhesive primers are used to treat smooth surfaces and increase the adhesion of the wall to the paint. This is achieved by introducing quartz into the primer composition, which allows you to make any perfectly smooth surfaces slightly rough to the touch.
Antiseptic compounds should be used in rooms with increased dampness - they do not allow mold and mildew to develop on the treated wall. The glue included in the primer strengthens the surface and prevents cracking and flaking.
Due to its increased fluidity, the primer penetrates into the smallest cracks and pores, filling them. Thus, the paths of water access to the thickness of the wall are blocked, and its premature destruction is prevented. Together, all this significantly increases the service life of the painted surface. The technology of preparing walls for painting involves the application of primers before applying each subsequent coat of finishing.
To increase efficiency, the primer should be applied in several layers. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. This usually takes from 3 to 10 hours and depends on the type of soil-composition, air humidity and room temperature.
When choosing primers and putties, one more point must be taken into account: their compositions must be compatible with each other. It is better if they are created based on the same material as the paint that you plan to use.
It is often necessary to paint walls already covered with others. finishing materials... In this case, the specifics of the preparatory work depends on the characteristics of the surface to be treated.
If you need to paint tile, then main task will give a smooth surface a rough structure, for which an adhesive primer is used. It is applied to the tile with a roller or brush in two or three layers, after which you can start painting the wall.
Before painting walls covered with special wallpaper intended for painting, special preparation is usually not required. It is enough just to wipe them with a damp cloth, removing dust from the surface. True, some manufacturers in the instructions for use recommend pre-coating them with special primers.
Surfaces covered with wood panels or battens should first of all be sanded with sandpaper or a sander. Then the wooden base is covered with special primers for wood or drying oil. They reduce paint consumption and increase the wood's resistance to fungal and wood-boring attacks.
Small defects should be putty with special compounds developed for finishing wooden parts and surfaces.
The final stage is the choice of paint. For coloring interior walls almost any type of paint and varnish composition will do. The main thing is that it matches the taste of the owner of the apartment as much as possible. After all, the main purpose of painting the walls is to add aesthetics to the room and create a cozy atmosphere.
Water-based. The most popular type of coloring compositions today, the main advantage of which is the creation of a film that is permeable to air. Thus, they do not impede free gas exchange through the walls of the building.
Latex. Their feature is a flat and smooth surface that protects the walls from moisture penetration. This coating is recommended for use in rooms with high humidity levels.
Acrylic. It is created on the basis of acrylic resins. Differs in resistance to abrasion and ultraviolet light, vapor permeable. Suitable for painting all surfaces: plaster, concrete, wood, metal, as well as for outdoor use.
Oil and nitro enamels. The classic version, used many decades ago, which is durable and durable. Among the disadvantages are high material consumption and persistent chemical odor.
Observing the technologies and requirements of building codes, it is quite possible to make high-quality preparation of walls for painting with your own hands.. The main aspect influencing the technology is the characteristics of the treated surface.
The video shows the process of preparing the walls for painting.
