Ceiling design today is one of the most convenient and affordable options to radically change the interior appearance of the room. Walls and floors perform more technological functions, while the emphasis is placed on ceilings in two directions at once. Due to the combination finishing materials and new technologies, it has become possible to create pendant structures of stunning beauty and originality, distinguished by high manufacturability. Double ceilings are becoming a frequent occurrence in the field of apartment design, especially when it comes to the desire to create a unique and original interior.
Two level ceilings made from backlit drywall sheets - great option transform the room. In addition, by creating several levels, you can successfully emphasize the zoning inside the room, individual elements of house structures. In each case, two-level ceiling surfaces solve a number of problems, thanks to which apartment design has reached a completely new level. Let's take a closer look at how to make a two-level ceiling on their own and what you need to pay attention to, first of all, during work.
Using drywall in finishing works ah opened up great opportunities for interior improvement and design optimization. Thanks to the technological capabilities of the gypsum board, this consumable has become actively used for working with ceilings, performing two functions at once - technological and aesthetic. With technological functions, the situation is less clear. Plasterboard allows you to quickly align a curved base surface, hide imperfections and defects on the floors. When constructing single-level ceiling suspended structures, the problem with communications is also solved. All cables and ventilation are successfully hidden in the space between the ceiling, leaving the ceiling surface flat and smooth.
A multi-level plasterboard ceiling with backlighting is a completely different approach to solving problems of ceiling design. Smooth and Smooth surface the main ceiling is supplemented with steps and other elements in which lighting equipment can be installed. The stepped pendant type design creates a striking visual effect that improves visual perception interior space... Two levels can achieve several goals at once:
On a note: for premises of a large area, 2-level ceilings will be quite appropriate. For large interior spaces and a huge ceiling part, multi-level complex ceiling structures look good, where, along with the illumination, there are original fragments and elements of the ceiling decor.
It should be noted right away that for apartments of a small area with standard ceilings, suspension systems of two or more levels are not acceptable. The average height of a single-level ceiling is 7-10 cm, while the thickness of a multi-level structure is often more than 20 cm. This depth suspension system is critical for rooms where the ceiling height is only 240-250cm.
In order to build with your own hands a beautiful and original multi-level plasterboard ceiling, besides with backlight, it will take more time and appropriate preparation. It is best to start in this situation with calculations and drawing up a drawing. Having at hand a sketch with the dimensions of each area, indicating the required number of profiles, hangers and fasteners, it is always easier to work.
Leveling the ceiling horizontally using drywall is not a difficult task. Another thing is to build the next levels correctly and correctly arrange the lamps. Backlighting in this case is a key element of the entire suspended structure, so it will be best when you have both a drawing and a lighting scheme in your hands. Thanks to the drawing, it will become easier to mount complex radii in the future, to correctly lay curved elements and volumetric figures in the upper part of the room. The proposed scheme clearly shows how a suspended multi-level ceiling equipped with hidden LED lighting should look like.
Thanks to the drawing, you get a complete picture of how the zoning of the internal space will be carried out with the help of the suspension system. On the sketch, you can always pre-calculate how much the ceiling will be lowered, and where in the room steps or steps should be made. In addition, a preliminary calculation will allow you to save money when buying Supplies and accessories. Profile trims and excess drywall may no longer be useful, so it is best to rely on the exact amount of parts and material in your work.
Important! Having no experience in carrying out such work, it is best to limit yourself to the construction of a simpler structure. The minimum difference between two or more planes from each other in height is the thickness of the gypsum board. As a rule, this is 8-10cm - the average thickness of the sheets used for ceiling works.
The drawing should indicate optimal height all vertical elements of the suspended structure. It corresponds to the width of the guides and longitudinal profiles - 50-60mm. The maximum height of a multi-level ceiling can be up to 20 cm, no more. The proposed drawing shows the approximate dimensions for a two-level plasterboard ceiling of medium complexity.
When drawing up the drawing, all reference points should be made from the corner of the room, where the lowest location of the base ceiling surface is. In the drawing, this place is marked with a different color, then starting from the calculations from this height value.
When creating a drawing, we can conclude that it is not so difficult to build a suspended ceiling in two or three levels. The only condition is that all the work will take more time.
You can choose a simpler installation option, focusing on the two levels of the new ceiling. However, if you have sufficient experience and assistants, you can not limit the flight of design ideas. It is enough to understand the device of a two-level ceiling with illumination, its design and how the sheets of drywall are laid.
For work, you will need ordinary drywall with a thickness of 8-9 mm. For the kitchen and dining room, where there is a high probability of an increased level of humidity, you can use a moisture-resistant gypsum board. As consumables for the construction of a multi-level ceiling surface, you will need: aluminum or galvanized profiles of two types, ceiling C-shaped and guides - U-shaped. Jumpers for assembling the frame are crabs. Spring hangers are used to fasten the frame.
On a note: spring hangers were not chosen by chance. Damping compensates for suspension system movements and additional dynamic loading.
Dowels are used to mount suspensions in concrete, anchors are used to install suspensions in the first level, assembled from drywall. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the guides with self-tapping screws.
As for the finishing, here you will additionally need putty, fugenfüller, serpyaka, damper tape.
The following tools will help you make a two-level ceiling:
Of the decorative elements, internal spotlights or LED strip will be required to complete the work.
On a note: for decorative lighting or to create the main sources of artificial lighting, halogen or LED lamps should be used. These lighting fixtures do not have intense heat, which is characteristic feature for conventional incandescent lamps.
Before proceeding with the installation of the frame, it is necessary to equip electrical wiring, other communication lines and ventilation. For better convenience, it is immediately necessary to indicate the location of the junction box, indicate the installation locations of the first level lamps. The surface of the concrete floor is cleaned of debris and dust, the old plaster is removed if it is in poor condition. A two-level ceiling is already a heavy structure in itself, so if on drywall with back side old plaster will crumble, it may happen that suspended structure will not stand excess weight and collapse.
In addition to the ceiling, walls also require preparation. The upper edges of the walls half a meter from the ceiling surface are leveled. You should start work on ceilings only after finishing finishing work on other parts of the room. At this stage, it is important to make the final decision on what the first level will be - concrete or sheathed with plasterboard.
The work begins in the same way when it comes to the construction of a two-level ceiling, assembled from plasterboard, without lamps or with a diode suspension. All subsequent work can be roughly divided into the following stages:
The first level is done similarly to the technology of laying single-level ceiling structures. First, the guide and longitudinal profiles, which are attached to suspensions fixed to the concrete floor. Further, already on the prepared frame, cut pieces of gypsum board are attached.
A two-level backlit plasterboard ceiling is the easiest option. Experience in conducting such work will appear, you can proceed to the installation and installation of more complex structures with three levels and additional volumetric figures.
The second level is mounted according to the principle of the first. The lowest point of the first level is the starting point for the subsequent marking and installation of profiles of the second level. On the walls, a mark is made at the height desired, taking into account the width of the next tier. The hangers are placed on the finished first level using anchors. To obtain the steps, an angular profile is used, in which the drywall elements cut to size are placed. To install the curly part, a template is made, with the help of which the location of the curly part is marked on the finished first level. The subsequent installation of straight and curved profiles allows you to achieve almost any shape of the second level ceiling. Plasterboard cladding is done in the same way as in the previous version, starting the laying of sheets from the corner or fixing the figured part. Ceilings with diode lighting are a little simpler in their structure and design.
In conclusion, it should be said that the creation of multi-level ceilings is not much more difficult than the device of one-level ceilings. A double plasterboard ceiling with diode lighting can be made quite quickly. Observing the geometry and correctness of the lines, this design is not very difficult. Typically, ceilings with diode lighting are rectangular ceiling surfaces, where the second level serves purely for decorative purposes to improve the interior of the room. Let's summarize:
Complex multi-level plasterboard ceilings are considered one of the main elements of modern residential interiors.
A wide variety of geometric shapes, lighting methods, richness colors- all this makes the ceiling structures very attractive, and design solutions- fresh and original.
It is not easy to independently mount two-level ceilings, but strict adherence to the recommendations and accuracy in work allow people without much experience to cope with this task well.
Before starting the main work, you must do the following:
You must accurately represent the appearance of the future structure and the lighting scheme. Drawing up a design project for a two-level ceiling is not an easy task for a person without skills, so we recommend contacting a professional to solve it.
When the design project appears, you can start calculating the structure itself and materials for installation.
Calculation procedure:
Important! If the lengths of the opposite sides of the room are not the same, select a larger value to calculate the required profile length.
Note! The profile pitch of 600 mm was chosen because the edge of the sheet should precisely hit the middle of the profile (the sheets produced are 600 and 1200 mm wide).
The design project should include a plan for the placement of all luminaires. With this data, you can calculate the total power and length of the wires. After that, you can purchase lamps, wire and corrugation for the wire.
For fastening the profiles, as well as for mounting the frame and plasterboard sheathing, you must purchase:
Reference. The crab is mounted on four screws, the suspension to the profile is on two screws.
The following materials are required for installation:
You will also need three groups of tools.
1. For measurements and markers:
2. For installation:
3. For finishing works:
There are two device options:
Let's take a closer look at the first option.
You need to start with the markup:
When the frame cladding is completed, the installation of the first level can be considered complete.
The order of work:
Briefly about how to bend drywall to give a curved surface to individual parts:
There are many ways of finishing structures made of gypsum plasterboard, here are the most common ones.
GCR elements are usually painted with water-based paints. Before painting, the surface should be carefully sanded and then primed. They are painted in 2-3 layers, and each subsequent one is applied only after the previous one has dried.
First, paint with a brush hard-to-reach places, corners, etc. Then the main plane is painted with a roller. It should be painted with movements of a brush or roller in a certain direction. The next layer is applied perpendicular to the previous one.
For pasting, ordinary or paintable ones can be used. For pasting, you need a special glue and a roller for applying glue and smoothing. It is inconvenient to glue wallpaper on the ceiling, so you cannot do without an assistant.
The method is not common as it takes time and experience. For finishing, a mixture of plaster is used, which can only be applied to moisture-resistant cardboard.
The plaster should be applied with a trowel to the ceiling, spread with a thin scrap over the surface, and then rolled with a roller to level. Dry decorative plaster one day follows.
Another method of installation involves the construction of the frame of the entire two-level structure. In this case, the installation procedure depends on the type of ceiling. You can start right away with the installation of the second level, and only then proceed to the first.
This method is more complicated than the first one, but it allows you to significantly save gypsum board, since a complete installation of the frame of the two-level profile "skeleton" is performed, which is sewn up with a plasterboard sheet along the visible surface of the two-level ceiling.
The design of two-level ceilings is varied. With the help of such ceilings, you can greatly change the appearance of any room, adding bright original details to the interior.
There are some general rules devices of such ceilings, which must be adhered to.
See some of them:
Mainly LED light sources are used. The choice of colors allows you to emphasize the originality of the shape of the ceiling.
LEDs for 12V or 24V are used for backlighting. Neon lamps have a voltage of 100V, and their installation step is 5 meters.
It all depends on the imagination and preferences of the landlord. The variety is amazing, a wide variety of design styles are practiced:
The use of vaults, stucco moldings, arches, suitable for the style of lamps allows you to emphasize the elegance of the chosen style.
During self-assembly take your time: each stage of work must be carefully prepared and thought out. Pay particular attention to the reliability of the frame structure, as well as finishing ceiling.
Throwing the skeleton of the frame, putting jumpers, screwing the sheets - it's all clear. It is quite simple to make one level of plasterboard ceiling. But what to do if the wife wants “a kind of curvature”, or the daughter says that “there’s a bezel like this, but inside the light is on, I saw it at a friend’s house”? You can order such work at any construction company.
But is it really better to pay strangers than to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling yourself? This will please your family while saving money? So, we do it ourselves from drywall.
Determine the height of the second tier.
Height from floor to ceiling minus the height of the second level from the ceiling.
At the desired height, mark the marks along the perimeter of the walls. Better to use a laser or hydro level. But the laser is expensive to rent for one day, but the hydro level is quite easy to get. And you can replace it. Any hollow transparent hose will work for us. The most convenient is about 10mm in diameter. The length is at your discretion, but not less than 10m.
How to fill:
we lower one edge of the hydro level into a large container with water (bath, basin, bucket), raise it above the other edge and suck in air through the other edge.
The water will flow by itself and fill the tube correctly - no bubbles to avoid blemishes in the markings. Make sure that no water spills out, the amount of water in the tube should remain unchanged until the end of measurements.
Do not forget to lead out in advance in the right place the wiring for connecting spotlights or LED strip of soft light. This must be done at this stage, so that later you do not have to disassemble the entire structure.
So, we put an arbitrary mark in any corner of the room. We expose one end of the hydro level next to it so that the water line in the tube is at the very mark. We bring the second edge of the hose to another corner of the room and put a mark on the wall where the water level will stop. The water will take the same position relative to the horizon. We transfer the marks to the desired height of the future using a tape measure.
Now you need to connect the marks with a straight line. Use a chopping line. To do this, pull the cord between the two marks in the corners and pull it back in the middle. The powder from the cord will leave a mark on the wall where we need it.
We fix a guide profile 27 * 30 mm around the perimeter of the room. We fix it on a dowel-nail 6 * 40mm (if the wall is not very strong, you can use 6 * 60mm).
We find the center of ours, measure the desired distance from it in different directions and mark it with labels. With the help of a chopping cord, outline the lines and scroll the profile along them. For this we use self-tapping screws for metal (if the ceiling is plasterboard) or a dowel-nail (if the first level is a concrete slab).
We fixed the guide profile.
Now you need to wind the profile along a semicircle. With scissors for metal, we make cuts every 2.5 cm.
We make cuts in the right places.
Now the profile can be given the shape we need.
We fasten the profile.
We fasten the profile according to the previously made markings.
We fasten the drywall to the guide profile perpendicular to the ceiling. We do this around the perimeter of the room. Except for semicircular areas.
The strips of the required length and width must be prepared in advance.
Performing a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you often have to bend the workpieces to the desired shape.
To bend the drywall sheet without breaking it, you need to wet one side of the cardboard with a wet rag or palm.
no need to soak the sheet, you need to make it soft, moist, and only on one side. Be careful: wet drywall is extremely soft and gentle, tearing quite easily.
We fasten the cardboard to the profile. Do not embed the self-tapping screws, leave 3-4 mm until the cardboard is dry.
In the corners, the semicircular sheet still tends to straighten, but since one edge is held by self-tapping screws, the lower one is lifted up. To prevent the cardboard from drying out in the wrong position, fit the cardboard into place and screw the piece of profile tightly, as shown in the photo below. Thanks to this, the sheet will not unfold.
Now we screw the profile to the pieces of cardboard that we screwed on. Along the bottom edge, from the inside. It should look like this:
Now you need to make jumpers from a 27 * 60mm profile. We insert them into the grooves of the guide profile every 60 centimeters. We get 4 rectangles along the walls, which are marked along the perimeter with a profile (27 * 30 - long side, 27 * 60 - short). And 4 squares with cut corners. In these places we put the so-called "ears" - cut off the edge of the profile diagonally from both sides, leaving a small trapezoid - "ear".
Prepared lintels with cut edges.
With the straight side, we insert the jumper into the guide profile, and with the “ear” we attach it to the perpendicularly set 27 * 60.
Two-level plasterboard ceiling - assembly of the second level frame.
We fasten the profile with LN screws, 3.5 * 9.95 mm. We bend the suspension on one side and fasten it to the ceiling above wide profile so that the long end of the hanger is adjacent to the profile.
Despite the fact that we set the perimeter level, the center of our structure can "walk" up and down. To prevent this from happening: from both sides of the room we fasten a thin thread to the guide profile and pull it to the other end of the room. Make sure the profile does not push the thread down. You now have a visual level. Keep the lower edge of the profile at the level of the thread and screw the profile to the hanger. Bend the protruding edge up.
When fixing the ceiling profile, it is necessary to check the horizontal level. The protruding part of the suspension is simply bent
It turns out something like the following:
Now, in each corner of the room, cut out a piece of cardboard using a template. A square with one round corner. The diameter of the circle must be larger than the inner circle (perpendicular to the ceiling). This is necessary in order to get a niche (shelf) on which it will lie. We fasten these sheets to the profile.
Two-level plasterboard ceiling photo of the second tier hemmed.
We bring out the wires for and tighten the sheets in the middle. Remember that the width of the bottom sheet is slightly larger than the width of our structure, that is, the edges stick out in the center of the room. We fasten the guide profile to these edges, along the very edge.
Now we fasten small sides to this profile. The size of the sides is approximately 1/3 of the height of the second tier of our two-level plasterboard ceiling.
The second tier of the ceiling is ready! We connect the lighting. Better, of course, to buy a neon tube and lay a "soft" light around the perimeter. Or you can just install ordinary light bulbs evenly around the room.
What kind of two-level plasterboard ceiling you will make is up to you. There are a lot of options. On our site there is a special section “photos of plasterboard ceilings”. In this article, I wanted to show that not everything is so scary. The main thing is to think over what you want in advance and try to draw on paper in the selected scale. Then it will be easier to do the markup of the second level.
Watch the tutorial video. How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands:
Successful renovation!
One of the most important stages modern renovation is the decoration of the ceiling. This means not just whitewashing it, but more complex work. These include the following processes:
I would like to talk about the last type of repair separately and in more detail. Suspended ceilings are different, however, they all have one thing in common - a frame made of metal profiles and sheathing with sheet material (plasterboard) or fabric (stretch).
In turn frame structures, regardless of the type of finish, are divided into:
More levels are found less often. Is it possible to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling yourself or not? Of course you can, if you know how. Such ceilings have recently become more and more popular, with their help you can decorate even the most ordinary room.
It is worth noting that before starting to make the ceiling, it would be more correct to finish all the dirty work in the room by completing the floor screed and plastering the walls. However, for jobs such as wallpapering, laminate or linoleum flooring, it is best to wait until the ceiling is complete. If work is carried out in a private house, it is worth making sure that the roof does not leak anywhere. Otherwise, the finished ceiling may be exposed to moisture and deteriorate.
Before starting work, it is necessary to decide what kind of ceiling will be made in the room: what the shape will be, and how many levels it will consist of. After that, it is best to transfer all ideas to a piece of paper. Some people turn to specialists for help in developing a multi-tiered ceiling project for a particular room.
Note! It is important that the humidity in the room is no more than 75% and the room temperature is maintained at least 15-16˚. it optimal conditions for repairs in general, and especially for the installation of the ceiling.
How to make a suspended two-level plasterboard ceiling at home? For example, consider a ceiling with two levels spaced 10 cm apart.
The levels are raised in order, first the first, and then the second. Before starting the installation, it is necessary to make the markup:
After the markup is completed, the resulting data is applied to a piece of paper with a drawn diagram of the room. Then, using this data, you can buy the required number of profiles, drywall sheets and fasteners.
Note! The first level is considered to be the topmost one. In the event that one level is added to the finished ceiling, then it becomes the second, and the native base (for example, concrete plates) - first.
The multi-level ceiling is all sheathed with plasterboard, so it is necessary to create a frame. It is assembled from metal profiles that are connected to each other.
The frame must be started from the wall. To it, using dowels Ø 6 mm, the UD guide profile is attached (in which the CD profiles will be fixed, going along the room along and across). In order to accurately mark this profile, it is necessary to draw one flat horizontal line along all the walls before starting the installation of the frame, the beginning of which must coincide with its end. This is how the installation of two-level ceilings begins.
Note! To draw a line on the wall, you must have a laser level and a pencil. If there is no such level, you can take a water level and make marks at the corner of each wall, and then along them, using a chopping cord, mark the line of attachment of the frame.
You can start attaching the CD profile to the perimeter-attached guide profile. It is installed in 0.6 m increments and will be a support for drywall. The edges of this profile are inserted into the guide so that their ends go there all the way. Now this connection needs to be fixed with small self-tapping screws, which are often called "flea beetles".
For two-level ceilings, the bearing profiles must be fixed more thoroughly, since the weight of the entire structure will be considerable, which means that it must be strengthened so that the new ceiling can withstand the load. This will require special suspensions. They can be in the form:
The hangers are attached to the ceiling every half a meter for more secure fixation. To understand exactly where they should be located to secure the profile, you can proceed as follows. Knowing the step with which the profiles will be located (it depends on the width of the gypsum plasterboard and, as a rule, is equal to half this value), rows of fasteners are marked on the ceiling with the same chopping cord.
For the cross-shaped connection of the profile parts, special fasteners "Crabs" are used.
When the bearing profiles of the first level are recruited, mortgages (53.5 cm long) are typed between them, connecting the longitudinal rows to each other, and also 100 mm segments are cut to connect the two levels and attach pieces of drywall to this side wall.
Note! If a ceiling chandelier is to be attached, it is also necessary to think over additional fasteners for it, otherwise it can pull down the plasterboard ceiling.
Before starting to sheathe the levels with drywall, it is necessary to carry out all the required communications - most often it is electrical wiring, sometimes ventilation, less often low-current wires for signaling windows or balcony doors.
As for the 220 V wiring, it must be tightened into the corrugation. All existing connections must be made outside the ceiling, since if the twist points oxidize, or you need to add an additional cable, you will have to disassemble the ceiling. In the wall below the ceiling level, a hole should be knocked out under junction box with a lid, cover it there with alabaster and putty flush with the wall.
The crimped cable is attached to the old base. You cannot leave it hanging just like that, otherwise, while attaching the drywall to the profile, you can get into the cable with a self-tapping screw. To fix the corrugation (or several at once), you can use several options:
Sheets must be fastened not flush, one to one, but offset by half a sheet. The first row always starts with a whole sheet. If the height of the room is considerable, you can use a special T-shaped device similar to a long-handled mop to lift the sheets upward (by the way, a mop will also work). In this case, together, drywall is lifted from the scaffolding or table to the ceiling. After that, one of the workers supports him with this device, and the second, using a screwdriver, fixes the sheet to the profile frame with self-tapping screws.
Note! In order not to waste drywall and not cover the entire area of the first level with it, in advance, even before installation, it is necessary to mark the boundaries of the second level on the bearing profiles.
In order to mark the border of the second level of a rectangular shape, not so much is needed. Design distances are measured from the walls, and a frame is built along them. If the shape of this level is round, you should do this - the room is divided by lines equally along and across. The resulting intersection point of these lines will be the center of the room. A self-tapping screw is twisted there, a wire with a second self-tapping screw or a nail is screwed onto it. It turns out a kind of compass, which is used to draw the circle of the second level. The scribbled line should be outlined with a marker or construction pencil. The main thing is not to be mistaken in the length of the radius.
Fastening drywall on the first level, you should start it over the edges of the frame for the second tier by about 7 cm so that you cannot see the voids at the corners of the structure. The first level is sheathed first, then the second. In the course of fastening in plasterboard sheets, you need to carefully cut out small round holes with a clerical knife for the output of the lighting cable.
When all levels are sheathed with plasterboard, a self-adhesive mounting mesh is applied to the seams and corners, after which the entire surface is primed and covered with putty. When the putty is dry, the ceiling can be primed and painted again. water-based paint using a roller. Completion of work is installation LED lamps or chandeliers for embedded parts.
This video shows the installation process for the second level of the plasterboard ceiling:
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Greetings. This time you will learn how to make a two-level ceiling... That is, in this article I will step by step describe the technology of work that you can handle on your own.
The design that we will do is good in that it can be installed on any, even not the most even, base. In addition, in the gap between the multi-level structure and the ceiling, if desired, you can lay various communications, starting with low-current and power wiring and ending with the installation of lighting and ventilation systems.
There are many materials from which a multilevel ceiling can be assembled. For example, a two or three level ceiling can be assembled:
Regardless of the type of facing material chosen, you need to understand that a supporting frame is used at the basis of multi-level structures, which must be strong enough to withstand the weight of a difficult sheathing. As a material for the manufacture of the supporting frame is traditionally used wooden bar or metal profile.
I bring to your attention photo report on how the backlit two-level ceiling was assembled from an ordinary centrally located chandelier. The design is built on the basis metal frame, sheathed with sheet plasterboard.
To make it clear what we will build, pay attention to these drawings.
In no case do we get to work without a drawing of the ceiling and frame. In the best case, the absence of a drawing can cause overspending of building materials. In the worst case, due to the lack of a drawing, gross mistakes may be made and the assembled structure will have to be redone.
In the drawing, the perimeter of the room is 4.10 × 3.75 m, if you use this scheme to decorate another room, the dimensions will have to be recalculated.
The first level will be located in the center, while the second level will serve as a decorative framing around the perimeter.
The strip along the short wall is a niche that we will provide for the installation of curtains along the entire wall. In the center of the first level, the installation of a polyurethane outlet is provided, matched in one style solution with the entire structure.
The difference between the first and second level will be 40 mm, which is enough for apartments with a ceiling height of 2.50 or 2.60 m. If you make a difference in the level of a more significant design, it will visually press. If the room has high ceilings, then the distance between the levels can be increased, but then you will have to redo the drawing.
Now let's take a closer look at the frame diagram.
Install a profile of 27 × 28 mm around the perimeter. The main profiles will be located in 50 cm increments, and the intermediate profiles will be installed in 40 cm increments. The profile for the installation of gypsum board joints will be installed at a distance, which is correct, since the structure will provide higher strength.
The configuration of the frame, which can be seen on the proposed diagram, is attractive for its ease of assembly, as well as the fact that the profile can be installed without cutting a large number of different-sized pieces. Embedded elements for fixing lighting fixtures will be installed in the center of the frame.
So, we examined the installation drawings, it remains to start assembling.
The assembly of the supporting frame is the most difficult and time-consuming stage, on the implementation of which the quality of the finished ceiling depends. To assemble the frame, you will need the following tools and materials:
Installed beams sag under their own weight. Therefore, fixing them on suspensions, we check the degree of curvature at the laser level and, if necessary, raise or lower them. By the way, without fail we install the suspension at the joints of the connected profiles.
How to beat off a level? We set a mark in one corner of the room at the lowest point of the ceiling. From this mark on the wall, apply a flat bar with a spirit level attached to it.
Move the edge of the plank up and down until the required level is found. After that, a second mark is set. A lace is pulled between the two marks and a trace is struck.
In the same way we pass along the rest of the walls. The start and end mark after level determination must match.
However, there is a simpler, more accurate, and therefore more effective method. In the middle of the room, a spacer is installed strictly vertically on which the laser level is attached. With the help of this device, we expose marks in the corners and we beat off the line according to the marks already made.
Do you think that the laser level is expensive, and therefore it is better to work the old-fashioned way with a spirit level? Laser level really not cheap, but it can be rented, which is quite justified for a one-time use.
How do I grow intermediate profiles? The fact is that the standard length of the profiles is 3 meters, which is more than a meter less than the length of our room.
You can increase the length as follows. We take a cut of a profile with a length of 30-40 cm and cut off the rolled side from the sides. We insert the workpiece into the ends of the adjacent profiles, so that all the parts are located exactly.
On the sides, fasten the connected parts to the insert with several self-tapping screws. The assembled connection is strong, but the sheets of drywall reinforced on it will make the structure even more rigid and reliable.
What hangers should be used to fix the profile to the rough ceiling? There are many types of suspensions on sale, which differ in the type of perforation, as well as in the thickness and stiffness of the metal.
What to choose? The best choice are four-hole hangers made of thick metal. The presence of four holes, instead of two, allows you to more reliably screw the profile to the ceiling and avoid subsequent sagging.
The choice of hardware made of thick metal is due to the fact that such products are more rigid, which means that it is more convenient to work with them and that assembled structure will be more static.
So, the first level of the frame is assembled, it remains to sheathe it with plasterboard. The word "independent" in the title is not used by chance, since few people do this stage themselves, mostly resorting to the help of one or two helpers.
From this instruction, you will learn how to do everything yourself without an assistant:
How to mark and cut sheets? We just count how many times the length of the sheet will fit along the wall. Accordingly, we prepare so many whole sheets, and we cut a small piece to the size of the remaining section.
Do not try to prepare sheets for the entire ceiling at once. The corners between the walls can be indirect, as a result, through the row, the extreme plates will have to be shortened or, on the contrary, increased. Therefore, we cut the slabs into one row, and after completing the installation, we take separate measurements for the next row.
The marking on the slabs in accordance with the passage of the profiles is done for your own convenience. If you work without marking, it is almost impossible to determine the location of the beams in the middle of the sheet.
How to tighten the self-tapping screw? The self-tapping screw must be screwed in so that the cap is flush with the surface of the sheet. In this case, the self-tapping screws must not be twisted so as not to disrupt the thread cut in the profile.
How to understand when the screw is tightened enough? Experience comes with time and this moment can be felt after two or three screws are screwed in.
By the way, in expensive screwdriver kits, bits with a limiter are provided. The limiter is designed for a certain screw-in depth, which will not allow to push through the drywall and lick the thread on the profile.
How to work with heavy drywall sheet yourself? Despite the fact that the gypsum board weighs a lot, this sheet material can be lifted, adjusted in place and fixed with your own hands.
The trick is to use inclined beams, along which we push the edge of the sheet under the floor. After that, it remains for us, holding the other edge, to climb the ladder and fix the sheet with self-tapping screws.
However, this method is relevant if the installation runs along the walls. How to work in the center of the room?
When working in the center of the room, you need to make two shelves from a profile, as shown in the photo.
We fix the first shelf at a distance of 20-30 cm from the place where the slab joint will be located. We fasten the second shelf on one side about 20 cm closer than the edge of the plate will be located.
During installation, we lay the edge of the sheet in, fixed on both sides. Raise the free edge of the sheet, pull up the second partially fixed shelf and fasten it on the second side.
As a result, the sheet lies on two shelves, which means we can align it and fix it with high quality screws.
So, we have completely figured out the first level, it remains to proceed to the second level.
Before proceeding with the installation of the second level frame, we will slightly modify our drawing, namely, note where the frame will come.
A frame will be attached along the perimeter of the room, repeating the frame of the first level. Further, the frame will pass along the patterned part, where the second level will dock with the first level.
Also, from the frame fixed along the perimeter of the room to the central decorative part, there will be profiles on which the joints of the sheets will be attached. To strengthen the structure, diagonally located inserts will pass from the decorative part to the corners.
For the assembly of the structure, the same profile with a section of 27 by 28 will be used.
Installation instructions are as follows:
You may not have a large compass at hand, what should you do in this case? Take a piece of the profile longer than the radius of the required circle.
From one end of the plank we drill a hole for a self-tapping screw. From this hole we measure the length equal to the radius that needs to be drawn and drill another hole. We fasten the bar with a self-tapping screw to the center of the circle, and insert a pencil into the opposite hole. By scrolling the bar around its axis, you can draw the required circle.
The cuts on one side must match the cuts on the other. If the cutouts on one and the other side are spaced apart, the profile will not be able to bend exactly.
Since the first level was carefully leveled during installation, we make the frame of the second level without a spirit level and similar devices. Just press the profile to the joint and fix it with self-tapping screws in increments of 20 cm.
This completes the installation of the frame and you can proceed to its sheathing.
Installation of a two-level ceiling, namely, sheathing of the frame is performed as follows:
We cut thin strips for sheathing the perimeter of radius and straight elements from drywall across the sheet. If the strips are cut longitudinally, they will break when bent. If the strips are cut crosswise, they can be bent.
The surface of the cut strips must be the same - this will greatly simplify the installation
Since the installation work is carried out alone, you will have to take care of the devices with which you can hold the massive sheathing elements. In our case, a spring-loaded bar from a laser level was used. We rest the bar with one end against the floor, and with the other end against the structural element to be installed.
After completing the listed work, the installation can be considered completed, which means you can proceed to finishing the ceiling. Get acquainted with detailed instructions putty plasterboard surfaces can be found in my previous articles.
Now you know how to make a two-level ceiling in a kitchen or living space. I hope the instructions provided were helpful to you.
If you still have questions, ask them in your comments to the text and be sure to watch the video in this article. After completing the installation work at home, tell us about your results. I'm sure everyone will be interested.
October 3, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
