House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» How to assemble a bath door. How to make a door to the bathhouse with your own hands - a step-by-step guide

How to assemble a bath door. How to make a door to the bathhouse with your own hands - a step-by-step guide

Sauna door - simple construction... But if not made according to technological requirements, it can cause a draft in the room or loss of heat. The correctness of the assembly and installation of the door determines how comfortable the hygienic and healthy procedure will be.

Sauna door material

The most popular raw material used in the construction of sauna doors is wood. The material given by nature is characterized by several undoubted advantages:

  • ecological cleanliness;
  • ease of processing;
  • good thermal insulation;
  • attractive view.

Glass doors are often installed in baths. The transparent and durable material has the following advantages:

  • immunity to high temperatures (unlike metal and wood, glass does not get hot);
  • resistance to moisture;
  • ease of maintenance (glass can be cleaned by wiping with a sponge);
  • aesthetic appearance;
  • mold-proof.

The glass door leaf is absolutely transparent

An exclusive disadvantage of glass as a material for a bath door is that it is sold at a high price. It is practically impossible to make a glass sheet on your own, that is, not in a factory environment.

The raw material for the manufacture of doors for a bath room can be metal. It has the following positive characteristics:

  • long service life, because the metal is not covered with fungus and does not rot;
  • strength (the material always retains its shape).

But it is logical to use metal only in some cases, since it has a significant drawback. The material is not suitable for the construction of doors separating the steam room from the washing room. It is recommended to create only a structure installed at the entrance to the bath from it.

Sometimes the bath door is made of heat-resistant plastic, which has the following properties:

  • first-class durability;
  • long service life;
  • unsurpassed reliability;
  • insensitivity to moisture and temperature changes.

The disadvantage of sauna doors made of high-temperature resistant plastic is considered to be their unattractive appearance. But you can forget about this significant drawback if you do plastic door with imitation of natural wood.

Creating a door structure from wood

The best materials from which you can make a door to a bathhouse are planks cut from oak, aspen and exotic trees... This raw material will not release warm air from the room, will not deteriorate under the influence of different temperatures and will serve for many years without problems. Material for the manufacture of a bath door structure often a pine tree. However, it is better to create doors from it at the entrance to the room. Pine is not suitable for the construction of a structure on the border of a washing and a steam room, since it can release resin when heated.

Create indoor doors with high humidity you need exclusively from high-quality wood. It is customary to install a structure made of oak or cedar on the southern side of the bathhouse in order to protect the tree from oblique rain drops and thereby prevent the material from rotting.

Parts of a wooden door are supposed to be connected with dowels, which will make it durable and prevent heat loss.

Required materials

To understand what materials will be required in the process of making a wooden door, and how many of them will be needed, you need to draw up drawings with dimensions. If you plan to insulate the entrance structure with modern materials, then it makes sense to make it not small, as in the old days, but large - in full height person. The traditional parameters of the door to the bathhouse are 2 × 0.8 m.

The construction of a bath door structure requires the purchase of the following materials:

  • 4 boards measuring 3 × 20 cm with longitudinal projections on the edge;
  • timber with parameters 30 × 20 mm, which reinforces the wooden canvas;
  • a bar of 30 × 30 mm, required for strapping a workpiece made of wood;
  • adhesive to fill the grooves;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • hinged hinges;
  • wooden door handles.

Wanting to put the door not inside the room, but at the entrance, you will have to purchase additional materials:

  • mineral wool or other type of insulation;
  • leatherette and nails for its attachment;
  • wire;
  • batting;
  • locks and fittings for him.

To assemble the door frame you will need:

  • anchor bolts;
  • timber having a cross section of 11 × 6 cm;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • feigned planks.

Required tools

The construction of a wooden door for a bath is carried out using certain tools:

  • an electric jigsaw that cuts wood parts;
  • a screwdriver, which will come in handy when assembling the frame;
  • a planer that removes irregularities in the wood;
  • caliper;
  • clamps fixing the boards;
  • tape measure and building level for measurements;
  • hammer drill with drills of different sizes;
  • hammer and scissors.

Instructions for making a wooden door

Self-construction of a wooden door for a bath involves the following:

  1. Boards with grooves on the edge are cut to length. Around the perimeter of the resulting canvas, a 3 cm wide beam is attached, which serves as a strapping. So that, as a result of joining grooved boards and a bar, a door with a height of 2 m is obtained, wooden elements must be cut to a length of 1.94 m.
  2. The boards are attached to each other, conditionally creating a door 0.8 m wide (taking into account the strapping). One of the wooden elements is reduced by 60 mm using an electric jigsaw.
  3. A spike is cut from the grooved board, which will be the first in the row. For this, it is advisable to act with a plane. The butt is processed carefully, eliminating irregularities and avoiding the formation of deformations and grooves.
  4. Boards adjusted to the required dimensions are fastened together to see if the cutting is done correctly.
  5. The beam, which will become the strapping of the wooden canvas, is cut into 4 parts: 2 segments 2 m long and 2 segments 74 cm each.
  6. The grooved boards are glued using white adhesive and clamps. The tool is poured into the recesses on the blanks, and the clamps are attached at the corners. The boards will fit tightly into the grooves if they are assembled with a wooden mallet. In order for the work to go smoothly, it is recommended to place the canvas on a workbench, as if creating a press effect, which will help to better glue the door elements.
  7. A few days later, the dried canvas is treated with a plane. You should not be zealous in this matter, because you just need to make the boards smooth by removing splinters.
  8. Sections of a bar (strapping) are attached to the sides of the canvas using self-tapping screws, the length of which is greater than the width of the wooden fragments. Fasteners are immersed in recesses door leaf 3 cm. In the area of ​​the corners, it is recommended to fasten the workpieces by making overlaps.
  9. Transverse strips are attached to the structure, making it possible to strengthen the rigidity of the door. If it will be installed at the entrance, then the elements located across the structure are attached to the front side of the door. The canvas, which will divide the rooms of the room, can be reinforced with only 2 strips fixed at the top and bottom of the door structure.
  10. Door hinges and handles are attached to the door.
  11. The finished structure is coated with a transparent agent necessary for wood processing and does not emit harmful substances when heated.
  1. Attach insulation to the gaps between the transverse strips.
  2. Close the door leaf with a piece of leatherette allowing to make allowances of 60 mm.
  3. Nail the leatherette to the ribs with large studs.
  4. Perimeter door frame make rollers covering the gap from the canvas to the door.

Installation of the structure

When starting the installation of a wooden door, it must be borne in mind that the structure should not be skewed. With tilted uprights, the door will not be able to open freely. So that the operation of the door structure is not difficult, it is installed in stages:


Video: how to assemble a wooden door

Assembling the glass door structure

Such doors are made only of glass, the thickness of which is at least 8 mm. This material is heat resistant, that is, when exposed to high temperature it will not burst and the door will not deform. The glass door leaf should not be closed tightly, so that the room is not stuffy. For this, a space with a height of about 5 cm is created between the door and the threshold.

Necessary materials

The choice of material is influenced by what kind of glass door you plan to make. It can be created from a single sheet and supplemented with metal hinges with a handle. If this option is not to your liking, then the door is made with glass inserts, that is, from bar or paneled boxes. You can independently create and install a one-piece glass sheet. It is advisable to purchase a sheet of standard sizes: 1.7 m high and 0.8 m wide.

In order for the glass door between the washing room and the changing room to look aesthetically pleasing, its canvas must be tinted or decorated with a pattern. Absolutely transparent glass is not worth buying for one more reason: it is invisible, and therefore everyone will hit it on the first visits to the bath.

In addition to the glass sheet, for the manufacture of the door you will need:


Instruments

To assemble a door from the prepared materials, you will need several tools:

  • screwdriver;
  • a drill with a drill for metal (if the door frame is made of metal);
  • glass cutter;
  • hammer;
  • building level.

Glass door creation and installation guide

Glass door construction is manufactured in stages:

Video: glass door installation

Making a door for a bathhouse made of wood or glass is a difficult task, but doable. Most often, the door leading to the bath room is made of wood, since only a few can use the glass cutter.

The doors to the bathhouse are the finishing touch in the construction of your own health complex. From their the right choice and installation depends on the comfort of your rest, so do not be lazy to find out all the nuances and observe step by step technology when installing with your own hands.

  • High degree of water and moisture resistance... It is important that not only the material itself does not collapse in such conditions, but also that the door does not become a place of settlement for fungi and bacteria.
  • Good tightness... A poorly fitting door in a steam room will make it more difficult to maintain the desired temperature in the room and make it more costly. If the front door to the bathhouse comes through, a heated person coming out of the steam room will quickly catch a cold.
  • Resistant to significant temperature changes... It is necessary that the door material withstands severe frost in an unheated period (when the bath is not in use) and does not suffer from the strong heating of the steam room during rest.

All the described requirements are met by solid wood doors. In addition to them, metal-plastic (for the entrance) and glass (only for the steam room) are used. Options from MDF, metal and other similar materials cannot be used in the bath, since in such conditions they turn out to be impractical and unsafe.

Photo gallery: options for sauna doors

Typical project of a bath house with a modest door Fabulous bath and health complex Such a complex paneled door with carved platbands will be appropriate in a traditional bath The modest entrance lobby looks good in a log house The entrance door to the bath can be double-leaf The door to the steam room is traditionally made lower. Metal-plastic door with French layout - very effective solution for bath Glass doors to the steam room look stylish in both transparent and matte versions

Table: comparison of doors made of different materials

Door typeDignitydisadvantages
Solid wood
  • universal, suitable for all rooms of the bath complex;
  • completely natural, do not harm health;
  • you can do it yourself;
  • the finished canvas can be adjusted to the size of the opening;
  • variety is provided by the size and proportions of the panels;
  • service life 25-50 years.
  • special care products are required for care;
  • if repair is necessary, it is difficult to disassemble the product and replace damaged fragments.
Frame with wood cladding
  • can be used in all rooms, but undesirable in the steam room, since the heat can lead to the destruction of the insulation;
  • do it yourself from inexpensive materials;
  • the design depends on the type and location of finishing strips / canvases;
  • the outer skin can be replaced without removing the door from its hinges.
  • under exterior decoration may hide synthetic materials that are dangerous in case of fire;
  • changes in the finished canvas are possible only within 1-3 mm, but it is possible to take into account the non-standard dimensions of the opening during manufacturing;
  • service life 15–25 years;
  • care is complicated by the large number of stitches.
Glass
  • have increased water resistance, therefore, ideal for steam rooms and showers;
  • bioinert, triplex and tempered glass models are safe even when broken;
  • the variety of canvases is provided by the color of the material and the type of patterns;
  • care is as easy as possible, it is advisable not to use specialized chemistry ("Antikaplya", etc.);
  • service life 50–80 years.
  • canvases are made at the factory, but the box can be made by yourself;
  • it is impossible to fit under the opening, it is necessary to very accurately maintain the corners when installing the box;
  • DIY repair is impossible.
Reinforced plastic
  • service life 25–40 years;
  • models differ in the color of the finish and the structure of the frame;
  • easy to clean without the use of abrasives, best of all with soapy water;
  • in doors with glazing, it is possible to replace the glass unit with your own hands.
  • Used only to decorate the entrance area. If a dressing room is organized in the bathhouse separately from the changing room, it is permissible to use glazed doors.
  • Cheap models emit chloride substances, others are toxic only when the building is on fire.
  • Collected only in an industrial environment.
  • The finished canvas and the box do not change, it is easier to fix the existing opening.

Video: how to choose the right door for a bath

Determine the dimensions of the structure

Openings in self-built saunas, as a rule, differ from standard ones. Therefore, before making a door and a box for it, it is worth carrying out basic calculations:

  • Measure the width and height of the opening with a tape measure in order to avoid errors due to skewing.
  • From the resulting width, 6 cm should be subtracted, from the height - 3 cm. So you get external parameters boxes without threshold. It is better to determine its thickness when the door is ready in order to level out possible errors.
  • From the width of the box, subtract the thickness of the timber that you plan to use (the most popular 110x60 mm) and another 6 mm (the required gap on both sides). This will be the final width of the finished door.
  • To determine the height of the door, subtract the thickness of the timber and another 18 mm from the height of the box (3 mm gap at the top and 15 mm ventilation gap at the bottom).

If the result obtained differs from the standard models by only 1–2 cm, you can make standard door and just use thicker bars to secure the box in the opening.

How to make a wooden door to a bathhouse with your own hands - step by step instructions

A wooden door is the most common option for a bath. Despite the existence of new technologies, wood remains the most popular material for all types of sauna doors: entrance, interior, steam room. In order for them to last a long time, you should not be satisfied with inexpensive models, as they will quickly swell from moisture. You need to choose the right breed, for example:

  • Oak. It is very dense and not prone to swelling, but it is difficult to work and prone to cracking.
  • Larch... The massif of this breed is optimal for wet rooms, it has natural antiseptic properties, therefore it does not rot, mold and is not attacked by woodworm beetles.
  • Aspen... The material is inexpensive, is not afraid of overdrying and is well preserved in humid rooms.

Sometimes a light fragrant linden is used for doors, but it rots pretty quickly. Analogs from pine are also popular, but together with a pleasant smell, such wood gives off a sticky resin. Spruce is not so resinous, but less moisture resistant, so it is not suitable for a bath either.

Regardless of what kind of wood you prefer, the array must be of high quality, without knots, otherwise they will all fall out during operation. The optimum moisture content of the material is 15%.

Stacked wooden doors

Wooden doors of a type-setting type are assembled from identical parts, for example, a grooved floorboard. This is the best way for a beginner to make doors. Despite the simplicity of work, typesetting canvases can look very attractive, especially if you choose decorative forged hinges and handles for them. They look best in traditional log cabins (real or imitations) in a rustic style.

Photo gallery: stacked wooden doors

Original entry added to the bathhouse with a simple type-setting door The lacquered front door makes it more noble A simple type-setting door to the bathhouse looks stylish thanks to brutal fittings Such an original door to the bathhouse can be made from the remains of lining and boards Such a brutal door is perfect for a rest room.

Manufacturing instruction

Required tools:

  • jigsaw for leveling the length of the boards;
  • screwdriver for working with self-tapping screws;
  • a planer for leveling the thickness of the door leaf;
  • clamps for fixing the door leaf while gluing the boards;
  • sandpaper for sanding wood;
  • perforator for drilling holes for hinges and handles;
  • feather drills for a hammer drill;
  • handle a router for grooving;
  • tape measure;
  • building level;
  • mallet;
  • calipers.

Necessary materials:

  • grooved boards 25-30 mm thick and 2100 mm long (the amount depends on the desired door width and the width of the material itself);
  • wooden beam 30x20 mm, which is needed to reinforce the door leaf;
  • joiner's glue for sealing joints;
  • wood screws;
  • hanging hinges (2-3 pcs.);
  • handle with a locking mechanism (1 pc.).

Consider the process of making a type-setting door standard size 0.8x2 m:

  • Cut the boards so that each board is 2 m +/- 2 cm long. The final alignment can be done after the sheet is glued.
  • Assemble the canvas, alternately connecting the boards, until the width of the canvas reaches 0.8 m, or slightly exceeds it. Make sure that the structure is flat by laying it on a horizontal plane without bends. If you notice that one corner is raised, or a hump has formed, it is better to choose more even boards for the door. When done correctly, number the boards with a pencil and disassemble the canvas.
  • Reassemble the canvas, carefully gluing each groove with wood glue. The boards should be connected one by one, following the pencil marks. The tightness of the connection is ensured by light blows of the mallet through the block, so as not to damage the board.
  • Secure the canvas with clamps so that all joints are tightly compressed. The bonding period is indicated on the packaging of wood glue, it usually ranges from 1 to 5 days. The thickness of the finished blade, if necessary, is leveled with a planer and sandpaper. After that, a blank is cut out from a single layer according to the size of the door - excess fragments are cut off along the length and width.
  • After that, in the monolithic canvas, you should select the grooves for the dowel in it at a height of 1/3 of the door height, counting from the upper and lower edges of the canvas. Key shapes are shown on general scheme type-setting door, only trapezoidal is available for beginners.
  • If you do not have enough tools or experience to create such a quality connection, the key may not be recessed. In this case, its fastening is carried out by drilling through holes in the canvas and hammering in wooden chops of a slightly larger diameter (dowels). The connection with self-tapping screws in such cases is highly undesirable.
  • If the design of the web is not rigid enough, you can fix a diagonal brace (jib) between the dowels using a similar technology.

Finishing interior doors for a bath is carried out with environmentally friendly impregnations, mineral oils, waxes. But it is better to leave the door to the steam room untreated, since there is always a risk that harmful components will begin to be released due to the temperature.

We start making the door frame:

  • Select a quarter on blanks wooden beam with a section of 11x6 cm. The depth of the cut groove should be equal to the thickness of the door.
  • Assemble the box from the timber so that the door leaf fits into the created recess with a gap of 1–2 mm. It is very important to maintain the correct geometry of the box, if the corners do not equal 90 °, the door will not open and close well.
  • The box is installed in the opening with a recess outward so that the gap between the door and the box is closed with a ledge. At the same time, heat loss in the bath is minimized. It is important that the opening is noticeably larger than the door frame (3-4 cm on each side). This will make it possible to more accurately align the location of the box and prevent its deformation due to shrinkage of the house or swelling of the material from moisture. To align the location of the box, put small wooden blocks.
  • The level door frame is fixed to the wall with anchor bolts (2-3 on each side) or with long self-tapping screws through the placed bars / wedges.

We proceed to the installation of the door leaf in the box:

  • Make markings for the hinges on the door leaf and the frame so that the hinges are placed at the same distance from the top and bottom of the door leaf (standard - 20 cm). You can fasten them at the level of the dowels, and for a heavy structure, you should also add a loop in the middle.
  • Fix one half of the hinge on the door, and then fix the other on the door frame using the screws from the kit or wood screws. For beginners, it is best to choose butterfly hinges, since you do not need to make grooves for them at the attachment points.
  • Hanging the door is best done with an assistant who will help align the marks and hold the canvas while attaching the hinges with self-tapping screws. If there is no assistant, you can put several wedges under the canvas and use them to fix it in the desired position.
  • After fixing the hinges, set the handle at a comfortable height. For the front door, you should choose a handle with a locking mechanism, for which a groove is selected in the canvas individual size(depending on the handle model) The wooden handle in the steam room is usually laid on, so you do not have to choose the grooves for it. It is most convenient to make sure that the hinges are fastened correctly and remove the blade for inserting the door mechanism, and then hang the blade again.
  • Fill the space between the wall and the box with polyurethane foam. After complete drying, the foam must be trimmed so that it does not protrude beyond the edges of the box.
  • Decorate the joint between the box and the wall with platbands of the chosen model. You can make them yourself from unedged boards with a live edge, and fix them with small carnations.

Your door is now ready for active use.

Video: feedback on the experience of making a type-setting door

Paneled wooden doors

It is much more difficult to make wooden doors with panels than type-setting ones. Here you will have to connect a lot of curvilinear parts and very clearly maintain the geometry. Therefore, it is worth taking on such work only after you have experience in the manufacture of other types of wooden doors.

Since the articulations of the parts are especially sensitive to increased humidity and temperature, such models can only be installed in the dressing room and rest room. At the entrance to the bath, steam room or shower, they will last much less than the prescribed period.

Photo gallery: paneled doors for a bath

The steering wheel on the door is an easy way to make it unusual Classic doors with simple panels are suitable for changing rooms and lounges By changing the size and proportions of the panels, you can create a completely different doors The door with asymmetrical panels looks very stylish This door design is the most durable option for a bath.

Video: manufacturing instructions

If making paneled door you cannot afford it yet, you can order a simple canvas and assemble the box yourself. It is made using the same technology as in the case of type-setting doors.

Frame wooden doors

A frame door with insulation inside is most often assembled to create an entrance group. It consists of an inner frame, divided into cells to accommodate insulation (best of all stone wool) and outer skin. Its manufacture is a little more complicated than assembling a type-setting door, but easier than a panel door.

As external decorative cladding, you can use wooden planks, lining, thin grooved boards, MDF panels, metal sheets.

Manufacturing instruction

Required tools:

  • drill;
  • manual or stationary router;
  • chisel for sampling grooves for fastening hinges and locks;
  • yardstick;
  • building level;
  • planer for leveling the thickness of the boards;
  • hammer / wooden mallet;
  • construction stapler;
  • sandpaper.

Necessary materials:

  • frame boards;
  • stone wool for thermal insulation;
  • wind and moisture protection membrane;
  • joiner's glue;
  • wood screws;
  • wooden lining for cladding.

Consider the manufacture of a door measuring 1.92x0.82 m for a box with parameters 2x0.9 m:

  • Assemble the frame from 5x11 cm boards, as shown in the figure. Make sure that all angles are 90 degrees.
  • Check if the structure is correctly assembled by placing it on a horizontal plane. If necessary, trim the thickness of the boards and seams with a plane and sandpaper.
  • Attach the windshield membrane to the frame using the staple brackets.
  • Fill the resulting cells with non-combustible and safe stone wool.
  • Cover the structure with a wind and moisture protection membrane on the other side.
  • Trim both sides of the door wooden clapboard, attaching each bar to the frame with a self-tapping screw inside the groove so that the next bar completely covers its head.
  • If necessary, trim the ends of the door with a plane and sandpaper.
  • The gaps formed after assembly can be filled with a mixture of PVA glue and fine sawdust (wood flour can be made by yourself in a coffee grinder).

If the doors will stand at the entrance, you can treat them with a stain, a high-quality antiseptic and cover them with several layers of varnish.

Glass door manufacturing and installation

It is best to install doors made of tempered glass or triplex (glued from two layers) in the shower and steam rooms of the bath. For the manufacture of such structures, a specialized machine is required for processing the edges of sheets with a large thickness, as well as an oven for hardening the material after drilling the mounting holes, so it is impossible to make them in artisanal conditions. But you can order a canvas from a glass company and independently supplement it with fittings and install it in the opening.

Glass doors are always a win decorative solution as they give the sauna a modern and stylish look. It also keeps the temperature well in the steam room: when the inner side of the canvas heats up to 80 ° C, the outer one remains warm to the touch (about 40 ° C). In addition, the glass door is additional source natural light in a small, cramped steam room / shower room that does not always have a separate window.

The transparent glass door of the steam room looks good next to the same shower stall The glass door can be decorated with any sandblasting pattern

Choosing glass

The thickness of the glass should be in the range of 6–12 mm, but 8–10 mm is most preferable. A thinner blade is easier to break, and a thicker blade will be too heavy and lead to faster wear on the hinges. The width of the door is limited by the wear resistance of the fittings, experts recommend choosing door leaves no more than 0.8 m wide. Such a wide heavy door will last longer if it is hung on 3 hinges. If you want to enclose the steam room with a glass wall, the door can be made narrower or double-leafed, and the additional canvases can be installed permanently. In such cases, the width of the addition is limited only by the area of ​​the corridor (workers simply cannot carry a very wide and high canvas inside).

The glass does not have to be transparent, it can be decorated with a sandblast pattern, or completely matted. In addition, manufacturers offer colored glass, painted over in the mass (along the entire thickness of the material): graphite and bronze. There are options made of enlightened glass, without a greenish tint at the end.

Glass companies also often offer engraving on the canvas, but since such decor weakens the canvas, it is better not to use it in steam rooms. Options decorated with film, photo printing, glued fragments are also not worth considering, since high temperature and humidity have a bad effect on such decorations.

Installation features

Glass companies produce doors different types opening: swing, sliding, pendulum. It is best to give preference to the swing option, since the most compact and durable fittings are used for them. The use of other mechanisms is an additional risk of burns on the guide.

Before ordering a glass door, complete the opening to the steam room. Only after that call the measurer, let him take measurements with an accuracy of 1 mm. If, after such preparation, the door does not fit in size, you will have the right to exchange the door leaf under warranty.

Required tools:

  • screwdriver for installing hinges in a box;
  • building level to check the geometry of the box;
  • handle with rubber suction cups for working with glass.

If you already know how wooden doors are mounted, you only need to familiarize yourself with the main differences:


Video: instructions for installing a glass door

Important to remember

Mandatory nuances:


Now you can make a beautiful and reliable bath door on their own... Follow the instructions and try to perform all actions as carefully as possible, and then the new door will delight you for decades with its appearance and flawless work.

The bath door is a fairly straightforward design. At the same time, it must be done truly competently so that the heat does not leave the steam room while you are taking water procedures.

Materials for making doors - an overview

In Russia, door structures for baths have always been made of wood. It is wood that has a full set of properties that are ideal for making doors to rooms where temperature drops and high humidity are always present. It has an excellent appearance, is easy to process, and is characterized by impeccable environmental friendliness.

Having decided to make the doors to the bath with your own hands, choosing a tree as a material, keep in mind that not all of its species are suitable for these purposes. Experts advise using aspen, birch, oak, durable and strong exotic trees. Such material practically does not dry out and does not deform during operation, guarantees reliable protection of the bath from drafts, creates a special atmosphere in the steam room, which makes washing very pleasant for a person. It is allowed to use pine wood. But only for the manufacture of entrance doors.

For the steam room, it is still better to use other tree species, which accumulate moisture much more slowly and serve for many decades. However, now there are many special compounds - antiseptics, designed to treat the inside of doors. Such compositions significantly extend the service life of wooden door structures. Also these days, doors are made from less traditional materials. Previously, they were not used for baths. But times have changed, and now it is not so rare to see baths with entrance structures made of metal, glass or plastic.

Doors made of heat-resistant special glass perfectly tolerate high temperatures and require minimal personal care. Such designs are especially popular in Turkish baths. But in Russian doubles they have not yet "taken root". For all its advantages, glass products have two "minuses": their cost is quite high, it is unrealistic to make such doors on your own at home.

Thermoplastic products are characterized by excellent performance characteristics - modern material, not afraid of temperature changes and water. The plastic is durable and durable. But in the Russian bath, it is worth noting that the constructions made of it look “unnatural”. It does not help that the plastic surface in the steam room can be made "like wood". Visually, it looks like wood, but it does not provide lovers of bath procedures with that “natural” warmth for which natural wood constructions are so famous.

Do-it-yourself reliable doors for a bath can be made of metal. More durable and durable material hard to find. Metal structures are suitable for installation at the entrance. And it is better to install wooden doors in the steam room itself.

What should be a bath door?

As you can see from our short review, it is best to use wood for the manufacture of entrance structures to the steam room and the entrance to the bath. It fits in all respects. Next, we will figure out exactly how to make a high-quality door to the bath with our own hands, using natural wood... But first, let's take a look at the special requirements for door structures leading to the steam room and other bath rooms.

First of all, the doors for the premises of interest to us must withstand without problems elevated temperatures and constant humidity. The wood species that meet this requirement have been listed above. Note that, among other things, wood products have an excellent healing effect on the human body. Unfortunately, the most valuable types of wood can be expensive. Not everyone can afford to buy them.

To reduce the cost of natural materials and at the same time make your bath ideal for receiving wellness procedures, it is recommended to make a door leaf from less expensive wood, and then clap it with valuable wood clapboard. You should also take care of the fittings that will be used. For these purposes, it is necessary to select products that are highly resistant to moisture and are characterized by a low thermal conductivity.

In other words, you cannot put metal latches and handles on the door to the steam room, for example. They will 100% cause you to burn when the bath is heated. Optimally, when the door fittings are taken from wood. Wood door hinges are difficult to make. Therefore, it is recommended to make them from brass alloys that are not afraid of moisture. Metal hinges are also allowed. But they must be treated with special paint with anti-corrosion properties.

In terms of geometric dimensions, the door for a bath is always made smaller than for ordinary residential buildings, so that it can retain maximum heat. The recommended parameters of door bath structures are as follows:

  • width - no more than 0.7 m;
  • height - no more than 1.7 m (standard - 1.5 m).

It is desirable to manufacture outward-opening single-leaf doors that close and open quickly and easily. Having found out all the features of the bath doors, we can begin to describe the process of their manufacture on our own.

We make a door leaf from wood on our own

We begin work with creating a door leaf at the entrance to. A similar door can be made both to the steam room and to the relaxation compartment, if there is one. We use sheet pile boards 4–5 cm thick. They need to be cut to the required length. At the same time, keep in mind that the total height of your door structure will include the heights of the strapping beams and the leaf itself. That is, the length of the latter is always taken less (143 cm with a total door height of 150 cm).

Having prepared the boards, we make the canvas in the steam room according to the scheme below:

  • We cut off a thorn on one board and remove all irregularities from its surface (on both sides). We should get the most flat plane. As a rule, it is enough to remove a couple of millimeters from the surface to obtain high-quality material for the door to the steam room. We align other boards in the same way.
  • We collect the canvas from the leveled wood. We connect (as tightly as possible) the boards to each other by inserting the spike of one product into the groove of the next board. The result of these works will be the door leaf. Its width is usually slightly wider than planned (you cannot fit the boards too tightly together). It's not a problem. We will simply cut off the extra centimeters from the two outermost boards using a circular saw.
  • We mark on the assembled canvas (for now it is a "rough" version of the design) the size of our future door, subtracting 7 centimeters from it. We cut off, as it was said, the extra width from the outer boards (be careful - do not remove the side with the groove on the last board, and with the spike on the first).
  • Making the final canvas. On a workbench or a flat table, lay out the finished wooden elements and connect them according to the already known scheme (spike in a groove). It would be better to coat the grooves with PVA glue from the inside. Be sure to knock the boards to be connected with the help of a mallet with soft blows. So they will dock as tightly as possible.
  • We leave the manufactured structure for several days. In this case, it should be firmly fixed on the workbench so that the canvas does not lead when the glue dries.

After a couple of days, we check the made structure for irregularities, small gaps and other minor flaws. Using a planer, we smooth out the unevenness found, and with a mixture of ordinary sawdust and PVA we close up the existing cracks.

Door trim and fittings - how to do it?

The locks and handles on the doors to the steam room and other compartments, as well as the strapping, we will also make ourselves. We take wooden blocks, cut them to the required length. Vertical bars for strapping must correspond in length to the total height of the door, horizontal bars - to the width of the entrance structure. An important point! The length of the extreme horizontal bars (bottom and top) is taken less by 7 cm (53 cm with a door width of 60 cm).

In the bars, you will need to select a groove. This is done in two stages: a narrow groove with a depth of about 2.5 cm and a width of 2.6 cm is selected; select the second groove (over the first) with a depth of about 1 cm and a width of 5 cm. The need for two grooves arises if you want to sheathe the door. In one "groove" the lining will fit, in the other - directly grooved boards.

The grooves are selected with an end mill. It is also necessary to make a stepped tenon on horizontal bars, which must fit exactly into the groove. Now we just need to assemble the made strapping into one piece and check it with a square for the accuracy of the angles. If the corners are not perfectly straight, you will need to sharpen the groove slightly.

It seems that you will make the locks on the door, as well as handles, without any problems. They can be cut with a simple hacksaw according to your own sketch. If you don't want to mess around with small work, just buy ready-made wooden fittings from the store. You just have to make a frame for the door and install your own construction in the opening.

Many, tired of the bustle of the city, try to find an "outlet" for themselves in a private house or on suburban area and often decide to build a bathhouse. In this case, it often happens that we do not know how to carry out all the stages of its construction correctly, and in particular, how to make a door for a bath with our own hands.

In this article, we will tell you how you can make such a structure with your own hands, what dimensions it should have, and much more.

The specifics of the door in the bath

The bath must have at least 2 doors - the entrance door and the one that will lead to the steam room.

The door to the steam room has its own specifics:

  • it should not heat up;
  • from an increase in humidity and temperature changes, it should not deform.

Whatever you plan to build a bathhouse, doors for a bathhouse with your own hands, first of all, should reliably keep heat and steam in it, and only after that serve as an interior item for this structure. In this regard, bath doors should be wooden and deaf and preferably made according to old Russian technology ().

Advice! If your bath will be heated "on white", then it is recommended to install a door with one sash in it. If you prefer a smoky bath, then the door in it should be made with two doors.

Dimensions (edit)

When making a door to the steam room with your own hands, pay attention to its dimensions.

To keep the heat better, it will need to be made several sizes smaller than for a living space:

  • its height from the floor should be no more than 170 cm;
  • width no more than 70 cm;
  • the threshold is 15 cm higher.

In the steam room, it is advisable to install single-leaf structures that open outward. The gap from the door to the floor should not exceed 5 cm.

Materials (edit)

For the steam room, it is advisable to make the door from linden, alder or aspen. You can use and conifers wood, but then you will need to treat their surface so that the resin does not stand out.

Required materials for the manufacture of such a structure:

  • for strapping, you will need a timber with dimensions of 65x80 mm, and for the canvas, tongue-and-groove pine boards with dimensions of 36 by 120 mm, for cladding from the inside of the room - lining 12 by 96 mm;

  • except for wood, the door to this room can be made of any other material. His choice will primarily depend on the planned interior design our building. Recently, it has become fashionable or models made of heat-resistant plastic. But only this will change the price of the manufactured product.

We make the canvas

The door leaf to the bathhouse is made in a certain sequence.

We will now tell you how to make a door to the bathhouse with your own hands:

  1. prepare the outer board and remove the spike with a plane to the level with the body of the board;
  2. the assembly of the canvas must be carried out from grooved boards on flat surface... You need to start work from the first board using the "thorn in the groove" technique. Next, with a pencil, mark a few points from the extreme board under right size width and connect them together in a straight line;

  1. cut the last board lengthwise with a circular saw;
  2. assemble the canvas according to the principle of a thorn in a groove, after applying PVA glue;
  3. after installing the last board, fasten the support boards with a gap along the long sides of the canvas and press them with wooden wedges against each other until they stop;
  4. check the quality of your work after the glue dries. If there are gaps, seal them up with glue and sawdust. Remove any irregularities using a plane and a sandpaper;
  5. using a square, tape measure and a ruler, draw the contours of the canvas with a length of 1720 mm and a width of 570 mm, based on the line of adjoining sides in the support strip of the ends and the outer edge of the first board;
  6. draw along this line with a circular saw, and clean the cut with a sandpaper;

  1. then along the entire perimeter of the canvas, make a symmetrical veneer with a width of 15 mm and a thickness of 26 mm. You need to use base strips and a router, it is customary to fasten them along the side of the door that was processed;
  2. the strips must be installed so that their upper faces are located strictly horizontally and must be in the same plane;
  3. the plane of the canvas should be parallel to the upper edges, since they will serve as a support for the router;
  4. install a router on the base planks and mill a longitudinal tenon in several approaches;
  5. after processing the entire contour, turn the blade over and repeat all the steps with one difference that you will need to control the thickness of the spike using a caliper.

Note! The spike should be slightly larger, so that later, when planting, it could be added to the harness.

Assembly

The assembly of the bath door is reduced to assembling the strapping around the canvas.

For this:

  • you will need pre-prepared blanks, they will need to be inserted into the thorns of the canvas from all sides without interference or with slight interference. If necessary, we mill a groove or tenon;

Note! No gaps between the groove and the tenon are allowed.

  • after checking the quality, you can proceed to the final stage of making the door to the bath with your own hands. To do this, you will need to glue the docking places with the help of PVA glue and fasten the strapping with self-tapping screws;
  • self-tapping screws will need to be cut into the canvas from the side edges of the strapping, while maintaining a step of 200 mm, in such a way that later they do not interfere with the installation of door hinges. In addition, you will need to fasten at the corners and strapping elements.

The side of the door, which will be exposed to steam, must be protected with a vapor barrier material, on top of which you can then sheathe the structure with thin boards. A structure that will not be afraid of moisture can also come from a frame, which will need to be sheathed on both sides with special sheets of fiberglass.

The space between them will need to be filled with foam or mineral wool.

Installation

The main factor when installing the door to the steam room is the arrangement of the threshold. Ideally, its height should not exceed 15 cm. As for the structure that will separate the steam room from the washing room, in this case it is not necessary to make a threshold.

It is customary to leave a small gap between the floor and the door in the lower part for the passage of cold air into the steam room. The height of such a gap should not be more than 5 cm.

The front door to the bathhouse is assembled with your own hands using a jig, using ridges on the logs and grooves in the casing, in order to exclude the possibility of deformation of the structure during the shrinkage of our structure. We will make a box for the opening from square or rectangular thick beams. In the opening, it will need to be installed using the ridge method.

In the walls of our building, on the lower horizontal log, make nests and cut out the ridges. In the future, you will insert bars with pre-selected spikes into them. Place a massive log at the bottom of the doorway, then use it as a threshold.

If your bathhouse was built of bricks, then you should make the boxes for the doorway more massive. For these purposes, take boards with a thickness of 6 cm and a width of 10 cm.

The depth of the quarters that are selected from the workpiece must correspond to the dimensions of the bath structures. Their width, on average, should not exceed 3 cm. The connection must be made with the help of thorns.

It is necessary to assemble and install the box in such a way that the bath door can open outward. Level the box and fix it to the wall. When adjusting the structure, if possible, make sure that the box fits as tightly as possible to the jambs and the threshold.

Output

Now you know that you can independently not only build a bathhouse, but also make a door in it so that it can maximally contribute to the retention of heat in this room. All you may need to implement your plan is a little patience, attentiveness and a little free time, and at the end of the work you will receive an ideal product that will help you to extend the service life of the structure you have erected several times (

A reliable door to the bathhouse, made of wood or other material with your own hands, not only serves to retain heat inside the building. It is also an element of the overall design that must meet the aesthetic needs of the owner. The choice of material for the bath door should be given special attention: the entrance can be made from a processed grooved board or lining, sheathed with insulation. Internal doors do not need heat-insulating properties, therefore both wooden and glass doors to the steam room are considered equally good.

Classic wooden door for a bath with your own hands can be made without special skills. But for this you have to choose high-quality wood that requires minimal processing. The lumber should be free of knots, cracks or rot marks, and the surface should be flat. The boards must be well dried, otherwise the door made of them will lead.

The best materials for making doors:

  • boards that are processed at the enterprise so that they have a groove and a ledge (grooved);
  • eurolining, which is ready-made wooden elements with a groove and a spike for connecting the canvas;
  • plywood and bars (suitable only for the entrance group).

If the owner has the skills of a carpenter and necessary tools and equipment, then he can afford to independently make a paneled structure from edged boards.

When making a door for a bath in the entrance group, you can choose any kind of wood: it is less exposed to high temperatures than the entrance structure to the steam room. Internal canvases are best made of hardwood (oak, linden, etc.), which do not emit resin.

To insulate the canvas, an EPS sheet, roll insulation and upholstery(leatherette). When making interior doors in the bathhouse, they are not needed.

How to make the doors to the bath with your own hands?

There are several ways to make a door leaf available to a person with minimal woodworking skills:

  1. assembly of a massive board from boards and bars;
  2. production of type-setting fabric from transverse elements (euro lining);
  3. frame-panel board made of sheet material.

Door installation in the opening consists of the following steps:

  • box manufacturing;
  • fixing the box in the opening;
  • hanging the canvas;
  • insulation of the front door.

To make the door to the bathhouse, you need to sequentially perform all these operations. The end result depends on the accuracy of the work and the accuracy of fitting all parts door block.

Instruments

To complete each stage of the work, you need your own tools, but if the farm does not have complex devices, you can rent them. To collect the input or inner door to the bathhouse with your own hands step by step, you will need the following:

  1. hand saw or circular saw for cutting wood;
  2. planer and sandpaper;
  3. jointer (for sampling quarters);
  4. chisel and hammer;
  5. drill with a screwdriver;
  6. manual milling cutter;
  7. fasteners (screws, nails);
  8. measuring instruments and building level;
  9. polyurethane foam.


Bath door fittings may differ from those used for hanging doors in the house. The hinges serve as a decorative element, and the design wooden bath allows the use of forged and shaped products. Handles can be made from wood yourself. When buying ready-made ones, you should prefer the same material, because in a steam room it heats up not as much as metal.

Measurements

The size of the door for a bath is determined by the size of the opening. For accuracy, measurements are taken in two places vertically and horizontally. If the door needs to be inserted into the bathhouse from a log house, then the opening should be prepared in advance, and then measurements should be made:

  • a groove is made at the ends of the logs going out into the opening;
  • a bar 50 mm thick is inserted into it so that part of the casing protrudes into the opening;
  • make a crossbar and a threshold from a thick board with a recess for casing bars and fix it at the top and bottom of the opening;
  • measurements for the box are made between the side bars and the upper and lower casing strips.


It is easier to determine the dimensions of the door leaf after installing the frame in the opening by measuring the vertical and horizontal distances in the vestibule.

Fabrication of canvas

The simplest option Do-it-yourself steam room doors - solid wood shield. To make it, you need to select grooved boards and lay them out on a flat surface. At the ends there are curved stripes - traces of tree rings. Adjacent parts should be positioned so that the direction of the rings is opposite to each other. This will prevent the door slats from being exposed to moisture.

The grooves of the boards and their protrusions must be connected so that a minimum gap remains. Cut 2 bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the door leaf. The bars are mounted on a boardboard at the top and bottom of the structure. Connection can be made different ways:

  1. Lay the block on the surface of the boards in the transverse direction. Fastening to self-tapping screws, screwing them from the side of the bar so that there are no traces of fasteners on the front side. Sometimes they act differently and drive fasteners with front side doors, recessed heads into wood. The recesses are covered with a special composition of glue and small sawdust. For the strength of such a structure, it is advisable to install a jib located diagonally between 2 parallel segments of the bar.
  2. Connecting without fasteners is more difficult. To make a canvas, connect the boards, put a 5x5 cm bar on top, cut from two sides. Its profile resembles a trapezoid. The taper is 1.5 cm and is performed smoothly along the entire length of the part. Draw lines on the canvas that correspond to the profile of the bar. Cut the groove, deepening it by ½ the thickness of the bar and observing the angle of inclination of the side surfaces. Remove wood from the groove with a chisel and level the surfaces. Push the blocks in from the wide side of the groove. In a room with high humidity, the mount will not dry out.

From the lining

To assemble a door from a lining, boards with a thickness of at least 2.5 cm are needed, with selected quarters on the sides facing the inside of the canvas. The length of the vertical bars of the strapping should be equal to the height of the web, and the horizontal ones - to its width. Connect the frame parts in a half-wood way, selecting a piece of wood at the ends of the planks. Grease the recesses with glue, connect the parts and tighten with clamps. After drying, drill through holes and insert wooden dowels into them with glue.


Saw the lining in equal segments. Their length is equal to the distance between the boards in the selected quarters (vertically or horizontally). At the extreme lining, cut off the side with the groove, and put the part in the frame, in the groove of the selected quarter. Dock the rest of the elements, tightly driving the spikes into the grooves. Cut the last plank so that it fits snugly into the remaining gap. Attach a wide glazing bead along the perimeter of the frame.

Frame-panel board


When making such a canvas, it is worth considering that for its insulation, a heat-insulating layer must be placed inside the door. Therefore, you need to prepare an EPS sheet or other material in advance. Make the frame from a 3x3 cm bar:

  • choose at the ends ½ thickness for a length of 3 cm from the edge;
  • connect long and short bars into a frame, superimposing the selected parts on top of each other so that the joining surfaces form one plane;
  • screw the self-tapping screws into the junction of the strips;
  • make 1-2 transverse spacers, choosing a groove in the long strips in the same way as at the ends.

Attach plywood or MDF to the frame on one side of the door. Put insulation between the bars and foam the gaps between the EPS and the strips. Close the top with a sheet of plywood and attach it with self-tapping screws along the perimeter and to the crossbars.

Warming

If the door leaf to the bathhouse is made of boards or lining, then it must be insulated in order to reduce heat loss during heating. For insulation, felt, batting or foamed polyethylene are used. The material must be measured according to the size of the door, cut and fixed on the canvas with furniture staples or nails, leaving free edges at least 5 cm wide.


Leatherette is well suited for door trim. The material is cut in such a way that it is possible to bend the edges under the insulation by 2-2.5 cm. In order for the upholstery to lie flat, fasten the material from the middle. Fasteners are decorative upholstery nails with large heads. To form a convex pattern between the nails, you need to pull the fishing line tightly.

Along the perimeter of the door, you need to attach leatherette rollers, inside which insulation is laid. The edges of the rollers are nailed to the door with decorative nails with a small step (5-10 cm). The seam can be made decorative: fill the nails closely, in 2 rows, in a zigzag, etc.

Making a box

The door frame to the bathhouse is made of a thick block (at least 5 cm thick). Along the outer edge of the parts, on the side where the door will open, you need to select quarters along the entire length. Their depth should be equal to the thickness of the canvas, and the width is about 3 cm. Connect the door frame parts in the corners with screws or nails, after removing part of the inner ledge in the vestibule.

Installation

Installation of the door frame is carried out on the anchor, if the bath is made of concrete or brick. The box must be fixed in the opening with wedges, leveling in two planes vertically. Check the levelness of the sill and top bar. Drill 2 holes in the sidewalls for the anchors and insert the fasteners. Mounting foam fill in the gaps.

If the bath is from a log house, then on the wrong side of the sides it is necessary to make a groove for the previously installed casing bar. To do this, make parallel cuts, and choose the wood with a chisel. The box is attached to the bar, and not to the logs of the log house. The sill and headrail must be nailed to the casing. Such a design of the doorway in the bath is not blown out, and it is impossible to foam the gaps.


After installing the frame, you need to hang the bath door. When using shaped hinges, the curtain should be installed in the opening and fixed with wedges in order to obtain a uniform gap of 2-3 mm around the perimeter. Attach the hinge bracket with nails or self-tapping screws to the frame, and the shaped strip to the canvas.

If the loops are overhead, then you will need to make grooves for them on the edge of the canvas and in the narthex. Attach the hinge cards in the recesses so that they do not protrude above the surface of the wood. The pin parts are fixed on the frame with the spikes upward, and the counterpart is fixed on the canvas.

In conclusion, platbands are attached around the box, which cover the junction of the wall and the box. The door handles are placed at a comfortable height. If necessary, mount a padlock, latch or bolt hook.