The first thing to do is determine dimensions Your Future window. To do this, open the sash of the old window and measure the width of the window opening (from one outdoor slope to the other). Then we measure the height of the window (from the window jumper to low tide). Add 2 cm to the resulting size of the width and height of the window - this is done so that the window can be passed to 1 cm on each side.
Learning window sizeBoldly go to the firm for the manufacture of metal-plastic windows. A week or two you make this window. In the meantime there is no window yet, you should purchase on the wholesale database accessories for this window.
The two-time and three-risk window requires the following accessories:
1. Sill - 1 PC;
2. Plastic slopes - 3 pcs;
3. Low tide - 1 PC.
4. Starting profile for plastic windows - 3 pcs;
5. Platbands - 3 pcs;
6. Stub on the windowsill - 1 PC;
7. Stand profile - 1 PC.
Depending on the thickness of the wall determine the width of the window sill, slopes and motion. There are three main types of residential buildings: panel houses with thickness outdoor Wall 300-350 mm, brick houses with a thickness of the outer wall - 510 mm, and brick houses with a wall thickness - 640 mm and more.
For panel house required low tide 160 mm width, sill 300 mm width, two slopes 450 mm wide. Why two? Because one plastic slope dissolves in length, one half is mounted on the top internal slope of the window, and the second half is installed on the side slope. The second plastic slope is also dissolved in half and is used only one half on the second side slope. The second half remains "about the supply" or will be used when installing the second plastic window.
For brick house With a wall thickness - 510 mm will need low tide 260 mm width, sill 400-500 mm wide, three slopes 450 mm wide.
For a brick house with a wall thickness of 640 and more required low tide 260 mm width, sill 600 mm width, three slopes 600 mm wide.
The next thing to do is to determine the length component plastic windows, namely the length of the window sill, the length of slopes and low tide.
Length of the window sill It is very simple, it is necessary to add 160 mm to the windows width - for brick houses or 140 mm - for panel houses. Those. If you have a windows width of 1300 mm, then the length of the windowsill in brick house It will be equal to 1460 mm, in the panel - 1430 mm.
Length of slopes It does not depend on the type of building. The length of the upper slope is equal to the windows width plus 100 mm, the length of the side slopes is equal to the height of the window plus 100 mm.
Fleet length equal to the width of the window plus 100 mm.
In addition to components, you should purchase materials and fasteners for plastic window.
Materials for metal-plastic window :
1. Mounting foam ;
Consumption of installation foam: three foam cylinders per double window, four cylinders per three-risk window. It all depends on the width of the gap between the wall and the window.
2. Rotband;
Consumption: one bag per two- or three-rissed window. From my own experience, one bag will be much.
3. Polyopolmineol ;
Consumption: 1-2 sheet 50 mm thick on one window.
4. Liquid plastic ;
Consumption: one tube is enough for several windows.
5. Water-emulsion paint ;
Consumption: liter 2-3 should be enough for one window.
6. Three rails for fastening plastic slopes .
Fasteners for windows :
1. Dowel 6x60 mm and 6x40 mm, for mounting the window;
Consumption: 10-20 pieces per window.
2. Self-tapping screws 16 mm long for fastening low tide;
Consumption: 3 pcs. On one bivalve, 4 pcs. One three-risk window.
3. Black Tree Self Heads 16 mm long;
Consumption: 10-20 pcs. On the window.
4. Anchor plates For mounting the window to the wall.
Consumption: 4 plates on one window.
5. Black metal screws , 9 mm long ("bugs")
Consumption: 50-100 pcs. On the window.
In addition, you will need a set of tools for repair.
So, the window purchased, components purchased, materials and fasteners were purchased, it's time to start the installation of a plastic window.
The first thing to do is prepare a window for mounting. To do this, you must remove the sash, insert three stick profile sticks and fasten four anchor plates to the window. Unpack the window is not necessary.
To remove the sash from the windowYou need to take the passatology and the handle from the window, because The handle is separate from the window, in the bag together with the fittings. Insert the handle and open the sash, pressing the top loop with the poles to the spindle (rod), so that the spindle hat is slightly climbed from the top loop. Then, passage takes this spindle hat and pull down, so that the spindle gets completely out of the top loop. Now we take the sash with both hands and raise it up so that the sash will be completely out of the bottom loop. That's all, the sash is removed.
Now you need insert into the groove and fasten the starting profile. First, you need to install the top starter, and then the side. We measure the width of the window and add one centimeter to it on each side, it will be the length of the upper starting profile. With the help of a grinder, cut off the upper starting profile of the required length. Insert the upper starting profile into the grooves with the help of a hammer or can be inserted with your hands and screw it up to the window on black screws for metal ("bugs"). Then we measure the distance from the bottom of the plastic window to the lower edge of the upper starting profile and cut off the two side starting profiles. In the same way, insert them and screw them.
The next thing you need to do is fasten four anchor plates to the window. With the help of a hammer, you clog the anchor plate into the window profile, as shown in the figure, at a distance of 15 cm from the top of the window and 15 cm from the bottom of the window. And screw the plates on press suck with a drill, a length of 25 mm, so that the press sucks the metal profile inside the window profile.
Check if it is worth it facular profile at the bottom of the window. If not, turn it over the window and take it in the groove. You do not need to fasten it. If there is no passing profile at all, and it happens, refer to the issue to the manufacturer from whom you ordered this window.
Now the window is ready to install.
The next step will be, of course, dismantling of the old window. With the help of scrap-novel, we remove all the sash, remove the old tide and pull out the windowsill, pre-destroying the bottom of the inner side slopes. Then, using a tree hacksaw, we saw impost And dismantle it. Then we cut the lower part window box And with the help of scrap, carefully pull out the window box from the opening. Clean the window opening from the packle, wool and dust, good, while smoeming the surface of the window opening to avoid dusting all the premises.
Now, everything is ready for the installation of a metal-plastic window.
Installing a plastic window, of course better with a partner than one. Therefore, ask someone to help you drag the window into the window opening and protrude it. Once the window will stay on the anchor plates, you can perform all the remaining work to one.
Metal-plastic window Tosted by wooden bars So before installing the window in the window opening, wooden bars must be set. To do this, you need to measure the height of the window along with the submarine profile - it will be the distance from the jumper of the window opening to the wooden bar. Now exhibit wooden bars using this distance.
Bruks put, now, neat and slowly, we put a plastic window on wooden bars, while one person holds a window, and another puts it in horizontal levelBy means of a substrate under a submarine pinch profile. At the same time, playing the window to the left-right, so that it stood symmetrically outdoor docks. In addition to all this, you need to set the window, so that the distance from the edge of the outer wall to the submarine profile is equal to the width of the minus 2, see, for example, in panel house With a width of 16 cm, it is necessary to set the window at a distance of 14 cm from the edge of the outer wall.
When mounting the window, it is best to use a small level level, about 300 mm.
The window is stuck, it's time for him bounce. Moisten the surface The window opening around the perimeter so that the mounting foam is grapped faster. In the gaps between the window and the wall, it is necessary to lay pieces of polynterol, so that the foam consumption is minimal. As a result, you should get three-layer seam: wall - foam - Poly Penopolmine - Foam - Window profile. Carefully apply all slotsAs outside and inside, otherwise, in winter, your window will freeze. After the proprenage window spray foam waterto grab faster.
As soon as the foam grabs, it will be possible to start the mounting of the window sill.
Since the windowsill is cut off already in size, it will be necessary to destroy the inner slopes Under the size of the windowsill, so that it is easy to enter the submarine profile. In order to avoid slots between the windowsill and the window profile, it is necessary to put a few slips under the windowsill. Particular attention should be paid to the symmetry of the windowsill relative to the window. With the help of the kitchen and roulette, play the windowsill left-right relative to the window. After that, exhibit window sills to the level, putting wooden bars under it. For double window There are enough three bars located along the edges and in the middle of the windowsill. For three-risk window There will be four bars.
As soon as the windowsill is exposed to the level, Put something heavy on it, such as Rotband's bag or bricks. After that, it's good to have a snake under the windows, special attention is paid to the place next to the submarine profile, as well as the left and right corner of the window sill. The stupid of the window sill should be so that in the middle along the entire length of the windowsill remained empty space. This is necessary so that the foam in the expansion does not squeeze the windowsill, and expanded into this space. If the gap between the windowsill and the wall is large, use polyenopolster.as for mounting window.
After mounting the windowsill start set rails for internal plastic slopes. First exhibit B. horizontal level top rakeand then put two side rails in vertical level . The upper rack is attached to the wall on a piece of guide profile or on a piece of suspension, stuck on a dowel to the wall. To set the upper rail in the desired position, you need to mark with a pencil 90 ° from the vertical window profile, pressing the kit to the upper starting profile. Then up from this line to measure 3 cm - in a brick house or 2 cm - in the panel house. Upon top, we serve a guide profile or a piece of suspension and screw the rail to it, flush with the inner edge of the wall.
Similarly, exhibit lateral rails, but now 90 ° metering from horizontal window profiles.
As soon as all the rails are exhibited, it is necessary make a gap between the rail and the wall. So that the foam did not argue the rack when expanding, it is necessary to fix it in the middle using the suspension of the stuck to the wall. After grappling foam, these suspensions are dismantled.
It's time install plastic slopes On the window. Everything is simple, the main thing is not to be mistaken with the size and not cut off too short slope. Plastic slopes cut off with the help of a grinder And they are screwed to wooden slats on black tap screws, 2,5 cm long.
Between the upper slope and the side slope formed a gap, we close it with a piece of starting profile. After pre-cut from it, with which the starting profile is attached to the window.
Do not forget warm clearance Between the wall and plastic slope. It is possible to insulate it different ways. You can simply stop foam layer, can stick polystyrene foam, Can i magate the "escape".
The next stage will be installing platbands on plastic slopes. As always, first install the upper platband, and then side platbands. Using the kitchen, pencil and grinder, we take the edge of the upper platband under 45 °. Then, as shown in the photo, we take the side platbands.
Next you will need fasten the cast. The sump is screwed to the submarine profile to the short press. As with the mounting of the windowsill, you first need to break out the exterior slopes under the latter. Make sure that the outside under the submarine profile is all well propenged. Then screw the tide into three screws, playing it around. And the latter, well shove the cast around the perimeter.
Now all components are installed and time make foam rotband. Using the tree hacksaw and the construction knife, cut down all the surplus of foam, both outside the window and indoors, and shook the rotband foam.
As soon as rotband Frozen, paint outdoor slopes and inner plaster water-emulsion paint.
The next step in the installation of the plastic window is the removal of the protective film from the slopes, the windowsill, windows and hanging the sash.
If a sash somewhere tert, and this happens almost always, it must be adjusted with a hexagon with a diameter of 4 mm.
Everything catering Spots and Pollution It is easiest to wash with a cloth moistened in solvent. After sacrifice of the plastic window you should hide plastic closures for loops, fasten the handle,put Plugs on the windowsilland put Caps for drainage channels,outside the window.
And at the very end, we scroll all the cracks with liquid plastic.
On this installation of metal-plastic windows with their own hands in the apartment finished.
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The more aircases, the smaller the air exchange and, respectively, above thermal insulation.
The wider profile and more mounting depth, the higher the heat insulation.
According to the thickness of the inner walls, all our profiles are the highest class "A" - the thickness of their front wall is at least 3 mm.
Note that 80-90% russian market These are the classes of "B" and "C" and only 10-20% of the class "A" profiles. At the same time in the range of VEKA profiles only class "A".
We fundamentally use the profile systems of classes "B" and "C" (with a width of the front wall less than 3.0 mm).
According to GOST 30673-99 "PVC profiles for window and door blocks" for climatic resistance, all our profiles are "frost-resistant" - for areas with an average monthly air temperature in January below minus 20 ° C.
GOST standards for different classes:
In our assortment only frost-resistant specialized systems marked with the letter "M".
The heat transfer resistance (thermal heat resistance) is the main thermal insulation coefficient. Determined by the ratio of the temperature difference outside and indoors to heat flowpassing through the window. The higher this number, the better the effectiveness of thermal insulation.
Our multifunction glass windows work on you and in winter, and in summer. In winter, the spraying of silver particles retains up to 90% of thermal energy heating devices, and in summer, double-glazed windows reflect on 25% more solar heat than ordinary plastic windows.
All our double-glazed windows contain special energy-efficient glass. We do not use conventional glasses even in the most basic equipment.
The windows are built into the optimal mechanisms of ventilation - the sash are opened by 1-5 mm depending on the selected mode. These are not external devices (comb or valves), namely embedded accessories.
Three options:
We try not to put the ridges because of their external view (Only at your desire). Valves in principle do not use due to the fact that they violate the integrity of the window, reduce its tightness and strength (since profile and reinforcement is drilled).
Reinforcement is a steel frame inside PVC profile. It is it that gives the stiffness of the structure. The more steel and hardness angles, the more reliable the geometry of the window.
Types of reinforcement:
All our profiles are reinforced as much as possible - from 4 sides and be sure to 4 ribbies.
VEKA technologists managed to reach a compromise between the unpretentiousness of matte invoice and spectacular gloss.
Pleasant shine and low sensitivity to external influences - the most noticeable feature of our window systems.
The VEKA profile corresponds not only to the Russian GOST, but also the European building standard RAL.
Today, the PVC windows have become very common, and with them are wide popularity and those firms that install them are widely popular.
However, the installation of PVC windows does not represent any special difficulties, so it should not be afraid of such a job.
The whole process consists in several actions that require a sequence of execution:
It must be said that many of these stages are preparatory, so the whole process can be divided into the following types of work:
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Before buying a product, you should carefully measure its necessary parameters. In this case, one should consider one characteristic of the opening:
A quarter is a special piece of block, concrete or other structure that serves to reduce heat loss.
If there is no quarter, then the window is made by 5 cm in short along the length and 3 cm shorter in width. This explains that in this case it is necessary to leave the gaps - 1.5 cm on each side, and below 3.5 cm for the windowsill.
It is necessary to say that in various documentation (standards) are 2 cm, and not 1.5 cm.
As for the opening, which has a quarter, then the PVC windows are ordered, which in the width of the width of the outlook itself by 3 cm. But the length in this case should remain the same.
In order for all the measurements to be faithful and the window later approached, they need to be carried out by the narrowest place.
There are subtleties and when choosing the size of the low tide and the windowsill. In most cases, the windows are installed by removing them by a third of the opening of the opening, that is, not in the center. However, the installation of windows allows you to make a choice in this regard. Accordingly, the windowsill is chosen on the basis of the resulting result.
It is only necessary to say that both sides, and the windowsill should have 5 cm more than it turned out as a result of measurements.
As for the width of the window sill, it must open the window on each side by 2 cm. When calculating the minimum reserve can be considered 8 cm, but it is better to make 15 cm that then these cuts can be removed in case of an unsuccessful first attempt.
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So, when all the calculations are completed and the dimensions of all components are known, you can proceed to the preparation of the place where the product is installed.
At first you need to proceed to remove the old window. Make it can be done different ways. If you are dealing with old wooden window, it is better to do this:
Why do you need to remove glass? The fact is that the old windows are very often simply nailed to the windowsill through the frame. In the process of dismantling the fixed window, the glass could simply crack and fall out from their places, which is unsafe. After old window frame Dismantled, the whole niche needs to be cleaned of dirt, dust and paint residues.
It should be noted: the foam is best covered with fresh wood, so the old layer must be removed, which can be made with a planer, sandpaper or grinding with grinding circle.
Of course, it is necessary to do only in a tree niches.
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Immediately I must say that some professional workers who have already established no one-tent of the PVC windows do their own hands, do this without disassembling them. Concerning independent work, Better adhere to the following recommendations.
It is necessary to free the frame from the sash. To do this, the pin is extracted, which is located in the upper loop. It can be removed by pliers and a screwdriver, carefully picing and pushing. After removing the pins, the sash is easily removed from the bottom loop. If the window does not have flaps, then it is necessary to remove the glass that can be done, deleting all the strokes. To do this, you can use a knife or spatula. It is inserted into the gap between it and the frame and the smooth movement are shifted to the side.
It must be said that such procedures must be performed only in the case of large products. If it is possible not to disturb the integrity of the new window, then it is better not to do.
From the outside of the frame, it is necessary to remove the protective film so that then there is no difficulty with this.
Then you need to put markup, that is, designate the place of attachment of the product to niche, regardless of which method is selected (they will be discussed a little further). It is recommended to hold a step in 0.4 m. The minimum distance from the place of attachment to the angle should be at least 15 cm.
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Immediately I must say that the choice of the method should not be based on such parameters of the product as the number of sash and cameras in the double-glazing. The installation method must be selected based on the size of the product and depend only on the material from which the walls are made.
So, installation PVC Windows can be carried out by one of two ways:
Anchors and dowels fasten the frame to the wall. At the same time, in the case of the anchor bolts, the holes of the corresponding sizes are drilled with dowels.
Installation using these fasteners is good when it comes to concrete, block or brick walls.
As for fixing reinforcement, it is usually used in the case of wooden walls. But it should be noted that this is an optional rule.
The essence lies in the fact that the plates are pressed into the profile and are installed in space to the wall. These plates themselves are attached with the help of ordinary self-tales.
If there is a desire to install plates on brick or concrete walls, It is best in them to pre-cut the corresponding dimensions. This will help avoid unnecessary work related to the subsequent alignment of slopes.
Very often, builders in the process of installing windows use both methods at once, which is also permissible.
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Installation of the window begins with the fact that the prepared frame is inserted into the niche or the entire window is inserted. Before this, it is necessary to put the bars around the perimeter or plastic corners. They will help provide the necessary minimum clearance.
The frame is aligned vertically and horizontally, as well as relative to the center of the niche. Make it easily by moving these steamards.
Placement wedges or corners are best spaced under the fastening points.
This will give her extra rigidity and keeps out of the deformation at the time of attachment.
Since the installation of PVC windows may differ from the fasteners used, the installation technology will be their own. And the differences begin with precisely from the next step:
After prior installation, it is necessary to check the verticality and horizontal frame of the installed frame. This can be done with the help of an ordinary building hydraulic level or a plumb.
After checking the frame is fully fixed. In this case, the anchors are not very tightened. The final tightening time is determined by the moment when the anchor hat is leveled with the frame plane. Some builders recommend even leaving 1 mm.
Then join all dismantled on preparatory Stage Details of the window, i.e. glass or sash. After installation, they should be adjusted.
All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam. It often arises such a situation that the window is less than the opening so much that the gap remains greater than necessary. If this clearance does not exceed 4 cm, it is allowed to completely fill in with the mounting foam. If the gap is from 4 to 7 cm, it is recommended to fill it with a foam, consolidating the mounting foam.
When the gap is more than 7 cm (except for the case below), it is required to fill it with boards, bricks or other similar materials. Cement mortar is suitable.
The tump is installed on the foam. Additionally fastened with self-draws to this profile, if it was used, or to wooden bars.
Single is installed with a slope from the window.
After the foam dries, you can start the installation of the window sill. He will start under the "Donnik" for 2 cm. I must say that the window sills do not install strictly horizontally. This is done with the goal so that the moisture that the moisture does not accumulate on their surface. In order to create a slope of the window sill, it is also carried out on the installation foam.
After all installation actions are completed, the window should not be touched by another 16-20 hours. It is necessary, in order not to disturb the integrity of all the gaps, that is, do not shift the product relative to its initial position.
In today's times, most residents apartment houses There are already plastic windows, few people can argue with the benefits of their energy and heat maintenance, besides noise insulation. Thus, plastic windows almost completely supplanted their predecessors. At the same time, there are some moments when installing windows that legitimize their main advantages. In order to maintain a plastic window, you need to comply with several basic rules. But first things first.
Before you are going to independently put a window in your home or apartment, you need to make sure that you have everything required tools For measurements, dismantling and installation of plastic. Although the installation of plastic windows does not require special skills, do not neglect one, it would seem like a unimportant tool, because you put the window for many years and cold winters, and any trifle can pour out in an unwanted defect or worse - the need to change the window.
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For measurements of window openings do not use any highly specialized tools, but the complexity of the measurement itself is that measurements are carried out both from the inner side and with outdoor, if you live on the second floor or higher, and the replaceable window is not on the balcony, it is There is already a problem, it is better to call the masters with a special equipment, if, of course, you are not a climber. In all other cases, you will need:
You need to measure the window openings up to millimeters, given the intrigue (if it is), which may not be noticeable with the naked eye, when making the window, these are these measurements, they are individual for each window. Measuring the outdoor part of the opening to install plastic windows, keep in mind that the size of the window outside should exceed the size of the opening by 3-4 cm in width and 1.5-2 cm in height. It is necessary so that the window does not fall out of the opening out. Here you measure the width of the window sill.
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If you decide to mount the window yourself, pay special attention to the manufacturer of the windows. As a rule, the manufacturer does not guarantee the plastic windows, if the installation does not produce its employee. Here you need to be very careful when measurements and installation, since no one will return to you the money spent and will not replace the window if something went wrong. It is better to buy plastic windows from manufacturers tested by time.
Before ordering a product, well, think about it, ranging from the fitness and finishing mosquito nets. If the window is large, it is better not to save on the "deaf" shutters - during the operation of the window you may encounter a multitude of inconvenience. In extreme cases, care for the "deaf" shutters is much more complicated compared to opening.
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Before dismantling the old window, it needs to be released from all the items that are located on the windowsill and remove the curtains and tulle. If the room is furnished in the room - cover it with a polyethylene film, for these purposes, the fabric can also be used, preferably relevant. Provide free access to electrical outlets. After that, you can proceed to dismantling. Below is the instruction on dismantling step by step.
If you do not have a wooden or plastic window sill, And, for example, marble, then for its dismantling, it can additionally need a hammer. Such a windowsill must be broken from the center, but there are cases when they can be removed entirely, although in order to lift this weight, you will need 2-3 people, in which case call someone from friends. To dismantle the old window, you will need such tools:
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By ordering windows from the manufacturer and coordinating the delivery time, take into account that the delivery time can vary slightly, it can affect how the number of orders and the upcoming weekends, traffic jams, etc. The whole question is to prepare the place in which the windows will be delivered to their installation, and all because plastic products with glass have a fairly decent weight and can damage the sexual coating. It is best to select angle in advance and check it with a dense cardboard. When delivery is carried out, and the windows are dismantled, let's start cooking the opening to the installation.
Before installing plastic windows, it is necessary to align potholes in the opening with a mixture of cement, it is best to make a trowel, which will make it possible to achieve a result that will be similar to the posted surface.
Do not leave potholes and irregularities without hurt, it can lead to a loose installation of a plastic window and passing the air, noise and undesirable influence of atmospheric phenomena. Such boards in preparation can lead to discomfort and reduce the life of windows.
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Before starting the installation of the plastic window, you need to remove the flaps from the frame, after that the stroke is removed and removed from it the glass. Immediately remove the protective film from the outside, as it is influenced by the temperature difference, it can very quickly "solder" to the plastic and disconnect it will not be possible. The inner side is left with a protective film with a protective film until the complete completion of the work, it will protect the window from the contamination when it is installed. Proper installation requires compliance with several rules and stages.
The advantages of new plastic Eurocon in front of old window systems is difficult to challenge: their installation guarantees reliable heat protection and sealing. Let us discuss the process of replacing old windows to new windows.
The desire to save on the installation of structures and cope with the installation with your own hands is quite logical. Although plastic windows are a complex structure, with their installation you can cope with the most and without specific equipment.
Performing measurements should take into account the features of the opening - with a quarter or without, other parameters and details, including the windowsill and the presence of sings.
In the first case, one opening is measured in vertical directions and horizontally.
The second option implies measurements of the distance horizontally between the quarters in a narrowed place, adding 3 cm to the resulting value. It is vertically measured by a clean distance from the bottom of the opening to its vertex, which is determined by the height of the planned glazing.
To install a quarter to install a quarter, in addition to the measurements of the distance between the surfaces of the window opening, to calculate its optimal dimensions. For this vertical, 5 cm are torn to obtain optimal height, And horizontally - 3 cm to calculate the width. These intervals include a 1.5 cm layer of mounting foam around the perimeter of the window opening and 3.5 cm on the installation of the window sill. The meal of the window sill with a tint plus another 5 cm so that there was a stock for mounting into the wall.
Before visiting the store and the acquisition of materials, you should get six dimensional data:
What do you need to independently install a plastic window? From the inventory you will need a regular set of tools:
Look at the video telling how to install a window of plastic in accordance with GOST standards:
The package of necessary consumables includes: foam for mounting, silicone composition, putty, screws.
For execution mounting work You need to prepare the profile of the future window, handles, windowsill, fasteners and sings.
If the frames are deaf, the first thing is removed the elements that hold the glass. Opening flaps are removed from the loops simultaneously with glass. If the windows are worn, the frames in them are separated and moved in a horizontal direction to avoid unnecessary problems and secure the glazing, they are recommended to dismantle in advance.
After that, the frame is pulled out, which is powered by hacksaw in some places. Sometimes the use of grinder is required.
Sharing the suggestion of the frame on the part, they are cleaned with scrap, hammer and other auxiliary tools, disconnecting from the opening of the window with which they have grown over the years of operation. If the frame is normal, you can do without dismantling work. But it is better to fulfill this action so that it is possible to install new glazing straight to the wall.
The same and order of dismantling the old window sill, and if it is made of wood, such a measure is a necessity. Concrete design is bought off with a hammer or apply a lomik and a sledgehammer. But if its state is normal, you can do without a crash. But note that the plastic design is warmer than concrete, and if there is a lack of heat, it is preferable to install it, moreover, the worn design is not able to provide optimal contact with the new frame.
By dismantling intermediate components, inspect, clean from contamination and, if necessary, repair the carrier parts of the opening.
If the sash opens, securely drive them before installing so that they do not accidentally revealed during the installation work. The window must remain closed and when fought, sealing the slots, the installation in the frame - its flexible ribs can be involved in a semicircle under the action of a foam-enhancement.
Before opening the flaps, wait about 12 hours after the installation of installation works - this time is required to froze the fixing compositions.
Important! Inexperienced installers allow an error by removing the protective membrane before installing the window. But the film is required just in order to protect the window from damage and dirt when mounting.Remove the film after the completion of the works associated with the finish: putty, staining, installation of slopes.
Installation starts with frame markup for fixing elements placed on all sides of the frame at a distance of 70 cm. If the glass pack is single and has a small weight, you can increase the distance, but a maximum of 100 cm. Extreme mount is mounted on a distance from 5-15 cm from the corner of the frame . But double-glazed windows having a stand profile in the design, do not require fixation from the bottom.
In accordance with the marks on the frame, mounting elements are mounted. They are united with her so that the screw takes place through the iron, which is located in the frame (it is called the curved chaserler). For this purpose, special screws are used, designed for iron, 0.4 cm in size, with a tip, similar to a drill.
On a note! It is permissible to use and conventional 0.5 cm screws, but then you will need to make an extra work, drill with a drill of 4 mm recess under the self-tapping screw, and then screw them. They are approximately the same, but differ metal thickness: plates have 1.1-1.5 mm thick, and in the suspensions this parameter is 0.5-1 mm.
In the selected points of the mounting elements on the opening of the windows, the holes are done. This action is not performed on the eye, but placed the frame already equipped with fixing parts to the place of installation and in accordance with the perimeter of the attachment make holes 2-4 cm in their "imprints" on the outside of the opening - stone or brick wall. These openings are immersed by fixing parts.
The window is placed in the opening, using the level, if necessary, laying a chips from the tree under the frame. The wedges permissively insert solely opposite the transversely located components of the frame: under the horizontal layers in the places of their intersection with vertical.
Simple instructions for installing clins: insert two below and one at the top for adjusting the lower edge and the upper horizontal. After that, two in the upper part for fastener frame. Then the remaining wedges with the right and left side, from above and below. If there is an impost, it is crushed similarly - so that the plumbings are located in parallel to one other. Installation Kliniev takes a lot of time - this is an important part of the mounting work, on which the correctness of the placement of the frame in the opening window in the vertical direction and horizontally depends.
The next step is fixing the glass package in the opening.
Adjusting the placement of the window, it is fixed using anchor bolts. Anchor fasteners - more reliable, but also more expensive. Any fastener can withstand the load up to 60 kg - this is enough for the window. The cross-section of the dowels for fasteners in concrete, foam concrete, brick and shell surfaces is 6-8 mm, and the length is 75-80 mm.
At the end of the installation work, the gaps are filled between the opening of the window and the frame mounted into it - so that there is no cavities.
The faning technique in the presence of a slit size greater than 2 cm implies the application of several foam layers with 60-120 minute intervals to froze each of the layers. Due to this, the deformation of the foam mixture is reduced when it is increased in the amount and extra charges are reduced, since the excess will still have to be deleted.
Important! If, when performing work, the temperature is less than +5, the foam must be applied universal, suitable for all seasons or intended for winter work.In most cases, window sills have standard parameters with the desired reserve, they are configured under the dimensions of a specific opening. These actions are performed using a grinder (a hacksaw with small teeth) and a jigsaw is suitable.
Then the cutting part is adjusted in accordance with the wildcard profile design: it is exhibited by exactly the level - along the same technique as the window. As for the plugs on the sub-construct, they preferably be installed so that they are included in the opening wall. To secure them, it is recommended to use special glue, and not to count on silicone and acrylic compositions.
See another video telling about the features of self-installing PVC windows:
The design of the window sill must be placed smoothly, so that the surface can be put in water filled with water, and not spill. Make sure the windowsill does not change the positions even under excessive pressure.
It happens that the windowsill is mounted with a minor inclination (less than three degrees in the direction of the street). The slope prevents condensate on glass, thanks to him, water flows to the ground.
Having finished the adjustment and fasteners, proceed to the fusion and close the space under the window sill, putting the cargo from above so that the foam does not raise the design. After 24 hours after the full pouring of the foam, the surplus is removed with a knife.
It happens that due to the irregularities of the sub-element after its installation, the cavity between its upper part and the frame appears. It is filled with a silicone mixture, but consider that silicone will take place over time due to the formation of mold, which will resist the appearance of the white eurowindow. Try to avoid the formation of such a shortage of the installation stage. To the profile of plastic to its installation, screw the plates having a Z-shaped configuration, from tinted with galvanized coating. Such elements will make the process of exhibiting the windows construction easier.
From the inside of the window on a 9.5 cm with a length of 9.5 cm, they set the rails from a tree, controlling their location with a level with a square.
The next step is the installation of an initial profile having a P-shaped configuration, on mini-screws, impaired directly in the frame. This profile is intended to insert the slopes, when it is installed, you need to be particularly careful when combining its outer edges.
The stapler attach a profile similar to the letter F. Its grooves must correspond to the groove of the preceding; They will hold the slopes.
After the glass pack will be equipped with two types of profile, there are slopes in them.
The final step is a sequential installation of platbands: one at the top and two on the sides. To ensure mutual contact, their edges are cut under 45 degrees.
For adjusting the sash, hexagons are used next to the loops. To do this, use a bit of six faces or regulate the sash with a small wrench. Due to this, during their rotation, a position is created, in which the sash can be easily close and open, without damaging other components of the system. Fasteners should not be opened and slapped arbitrarily, their position should remain stable.
Often, in the course of manipulations with sash, there is a strong contact with locking fittings, which accompany the characteristic sounds. Solve the problem will allow the dismissal of self-pressing, which fixes a certain fitness element, shifting the latter by 5-10 mm.
In most cases, lowers are mounted at the end of all installation manipulations. Bold them is recommended directly under the window: Thanks to this, you will prevent moisture from entering the slot between the sings and the frame. But in some cases it is impossible to do this, and the tump is fixed to the frame on the miniature screws by iron with a diameter of 0.4 cm and 0.9 cm long.
Calculate the costs - these are labor and financial expenses on the installation itself.
Technics self-mount The windows implies two main types of work: dismantling the existing window and installing a new one. In order to remove the old window, it will take from 0.5 to 1.5 hours. Installation of a new glass glass with average dimensions will take about a couple of hours.
On the replacement of one double-barker, the average requires 2.5-3.5 hours. Working in such a rhythm, you can install several windows in one day.
Thanks to the glazing made with their own hands, you can save on specialist services, because professionals require payment of 2-4 thousand rubles. - for glazing one opening. By ordering this service in some company, you can spend even more if the prices are formed in the percentage ratio from the price of double-barakers (from 10 to 40%). And if you do everything yourself according to step-by-step instructions, you will receive not only savings, but also confidence as performed works.
An independent installation of plastic profiles is not as hard as it seems. Almost all double-glazed windows have a modular design that does not involve the assembly of individual elements and are almost ready for installation. In order to insert and consolidate them in the opening, it is not necessary to be a professional, expensive tools for this will not be required.
But note that the installation is performed under your responsibility - this means that you will have to do measurements yourself and buy materials.
The manufacturer's warranty will be distributed solely on the glass and fittings. For the quality of installation work, tightness of the seams, the correct position of the designs and the performance of the window system will answer the one who engaged in installing the window.
If you use the services of a mounting company, the warranty for the work performed and consumables will be from 1 year to 5 years.
But if you have time and desire to install the plastic window yourself, do not be afraid: you will handle this task if you follow step by step instructions. You yourself will be able to mount the glazing, watched by someone from relatives or friends to give you tools.
You do not have to pay professionals, because their services are not suiced, but the work on installing a new window is not much longer than if experts were engaged.
Another detailed video How to put a plastic window correctly:
Newcomers, for the first time installing plastic glass windows, often admit the same errors. Such shortcomings are non-critical, but they can affect the service life and ease of operation of the window system.
Read about: The main causes of false windows and ways of struggle.
How to properly install the thermostat on the battery, read.
It is undesirable when dismantling any structures from a tree, including a worn out frame, use a cutter on the gland - this tool is not suitable for this work. Thin disk with speed of rotation of 7 thousand revolutions per minute. It is easy to damage the bitch - it is very dangerous for the artist. From the use of a toothed disk should also be refused for the same reason.
As long as the foam does not completely freeze, do not install the handle to open the flaps so that the households for ignorance do not spoil your work.
