Often the height of the gate is already finished garage Does not suit the owner. Perhaps a person decided to buy a new car, say, an SUV, the height of which is higher than ordinary cars, or there is a need to use a garage for other purposes, when you need to drive into the small truck, for example, Gazelle.
But the gate for a private garage used to be created using a certain amount of metal for savings - the calculation of the amount of materials used was carried out taking into account the size of the standard steel sheet with a thickness of 2-3 mm (Photo 1).
Photo 1. Standard garage doors
Today is height garage doors Other owners stopped arranging, and many began to increase this size (photo 2).
Photo 2. The height of the front wall allows you to increase the gate
Of course, you can invite specialists who will make it quickly and efficiently. However, not everyone has enough funds to pay for the work of the hired workers and the purchases of the materials they use. Often the masters require the purchase of a new metal that is worth an order of magnitude more than the used.
In turn, the owner of the garage may choose the necessary metal rolling in an organization engaged in collecting scrap metal. The material selected from the scrap can cost 2-3 times less than they have to pay for the new metal. At the same time, the fortress of metal structures made from the old metal is quite enough to ensure the strength of the finished product.
But on the instrument and snap off is not recommended. Must prepare workplace, setting the necessary height of strong scaffolding - When performing works, a person must be in a sustainable position, which will exclude its drop with a working tool and injury.
The perforator and a corner car must be powerful, and such a snap, as drills and cutting circles need to be purchased good qualitywhich will depend on the speed of the work and security of the employee.
For example, for propyl brick wall It is recommended to use special cutting diamond circles. For welding, it is enough to use a small inverter welding machine operating from the usual network by 220V and the welding metal electrodes with a diameter of 3-4 mm.
I would like to add that a person must be taken for such work, at least a bit representing how to use specialized equipment, and possessing small practical skills in the application of such tools.
Photo 3. Set of cutting circles on concrete 
Photo 4. Cutting circle on concrete of maximum diameter The amount of metal and the size of the sheet is calculated on the basis of the area to which the gate will increase.
Installed firmly and steadily scaffolding.
The outline of the new garage gate frame is planned.
Polyethylene film is fixed inside the garage in such a way as to eliminate the falling dust into the room.
Cutting a corner cooked to build a gate frame, marked with each segment about its location in the design.
It is performed by the brick masonry of garage walls along the contour of the new gate frame first outside the garage. The horizontal cutting wall is better to perform on the seam located between the bricks (photo 5), which will make it easier for a smooth gasket of the channel and further removal of an excess masonry array.
Photo 5. Singing seam laying
Vertical propyl is performed according to the outlined contour (photo 6) with a maximum recess in the existing part of the frame for the convenience of installing a new design (photo 7).
Photo 6. Docted on the outlined contour 
Photo 7. Deeperation in the frame The adequacy of the depth of the shortcut is checked by a segment remaining with a cutting corner with a width of the shelf 40-75 mm (photo 8).
Photo 8. Checking the depth of the short After completion of the cut from the outside (Photo 9), the installation of segments of the frame for the frame (photo 10) is performed with a thorough coach coaching in the segments connecting (photo 11). Setting the segments of the corner, it is desirable to check their location with a plumb and building level. After checking, the structural elements are recorded in any way, after which the seam bare is performed. In the case of extension, which is depicted in photos, the garage gates were established incorrectly, which had to be compensated by the adjustment of the newly created frame design and sash, which would be especially noticeable in the pictures with the already enlarged gate. While doing welding work It is recommended to have a fire extinguishing.
Photo 9. Propyl is ready 
Photo 10. Setting segments for a corner of the frame 
Photo 11. It is necessary to carefully slaughter the seams in the segments connecting places For better attachment to the existing masonry created design, it is desirable to use anchor spacer bolts (photo 12).
Photo 12. In these conditions, it is best to use anchor spacer bolts. The diameter of the used bolts of 8 mm with a length of 60 mm (photo 13). It is enough to fasten the horizontal cut of the corner in four places. First, the metal drill is 8.5 mm drilled in an angle to brick masonry, and then the hole for an anchor bolt is deepened by a drill on a concrete by 8 mm to desired depth. After that, anchor bolts are inserted, and the design is attached to the wall.
Photo 13. Anchor spacer bolts with a length of 60 mm and a diameter of 8mm After assembling and fixing the new design outside, the necessary wall feeds are performed from the inside, after which the elements of the gate frame are collected in the same order and are attached from the inside.
The next stage is the preparation of parts for extension of sash. To do this, takes out the cutting of the available sheets and cut the corner with the width of the shelf 30-35 mm on the segments of the required length.
Next, the cloth is assembled by the structure of the portion of each of the shutters of the gate. The collected areas of cloths are welded from above to the goal sesters, and for fixing, they stick to a new portion of the frame with spot welding in several places (photo 14).
Photo 14. Assembling the canvas and fixation to the frame of spot welding After that, an extra brick is removed from the inside of the garage, carefully reversed when using the chisel tools and the hammer. Before removing unnecessary parts of the wall, it is also necessary to secure an anchor bolt inner part of the gate frame design (photo 15).
Photo 15. The inside of the web also needs to be fixed using anchor bolts When unnecessary pieces of the walls are removed, additional strengthening of the frame structure and enhancing the frame of the extensive part of the gate sash are performed (photo 16). All new design elements that increase the size of the gate, carefully boil, because the strength of the finished product depends on it.
Photo 16. The whole design is carefully coarsened. The lower gate constipation is adjusted at the place when new elements are added to the existing frame (photo 17). Then the floor is filling to the required level, or the gate frame is completely increasing completely.
Photo 17. fitting lower constipation The upper gate constipation is increasing and adjusted along the upper edge of the increased frame (photo 18).
Photo 18. Building and fitting upper constipation From the outdoor side of the gate, the top loops due to the increased size of the canvas are cut and welded above (photo 19 and 20).
Photo 19. Changing the location of the fastening of the loop outside ( right side)
Photo 20. Changing the place of attachment of the loop outside (left side) The final stage is the painting of the gate of special paint (photo 21). It is recommended to use the coloring composition performing three functions - the paint replaces the ground, if necessary, converts rust and creates a paint protective layer on the metal.
Photo 21. New painted gates If a person has small work skills with a special tool in concrete and has an idea of \u200b\u200bwelding work, he will be able to perform a gate extension on his own, saving these significant funds from the family budget.
The safety of your property depends on the reliability and strength of the garage gate. In addition to the protective function that they do, can also serve as an attractive addition to your home.
What to do if for some reason you can't open the gate? For normal functioning, it is enough to raise them. The question arises, how to raise the gate in the garage? The answer is very simple: it is enough to be guided by some recommendations and everything will turn out.
Construction easily can be made with your own hands. In quality, it will not differ from the one that experts will be installed. At the same time, it is necessary to perform step-by-step recommendations on the installation of the gate and be extremely attentive. In addition, the installation of the garage gate will not take much time.
Consider positive momentswithout which the gate will be simply unnecessary.
The size of the gate must provide a normal check-in. It all depends on the model of your car. The width of the opening should be such that when stopping the machines in it, the gap remained about 30 cm. The height for the passenger car should be from 1.70 to 2 meters, for a truck - 2.5 meters.
The gate must protect your property. Protective functions depend on the material from which the design will be made. Metal - the most reliable and durable. A steel galvanized sheet of 2.5 mm wide will perfectly cope with this task. With the help of overhead constipation for external pads and armored linings on the inner castle, you can additionally strengthen the design. Wooden doors Not very reliable, so they can be installed only on protected parking.
The more densely the canvas adjacent to the frame, the more reliably the protection. Use vertical constipation to fix the desired door position. Vertical constipation prevent skews of the design, and also securely hold the door. You can use the seal for an even stronger fit of the structure to the frame.
There are such types of gates.
Consist of two sash sprinkling inwards or out. Basically, the second preference. For the normal functioning of the design, the presence of space is very important. This is the cheapest type of mechanism.
Open along the fence, from the inside. The main advantage is the lack of need for additional territory ahead of the device.
Includes individual sections that are refracted when opening, and thanks to the special system of springs and profiles, the web leaves up, under the ceiling. This type of gate also saves the territory.
The canvas contains aluminum plates coated with polymer. When opening it turns into a special box above the entrance to the garage.
In this type of device, the vertical lifting of the canvas to the ceiling takes place.
First of all, remove the measure to understand the size of the future gate. As a rule, with their own hands make swing metal garage doors. This kind of simpler and cheap. Retractable gates will be more difficult and more expensive, but it is also possible. You need to take a drawing, buy a ready-made system for assembly. The kit includes installation instructions, with which the installation is made. As a rule, they are installed on dachas, in private households, warehouses.
You can also reduce costs by installing automation yourself. Take a drawing to buy necessary components And follow the instructions.
Making swing doors You can, without buying expensive components. As materials use a profile, sheet metal 1-3 mm, steel corner.
Install the garage doors can be several steps:
Step number 1. Making frame
The frame includes an external and inner frame of a steel corner, the dimensions of which are 65x65 mm. Tools will be required:
Weiently focus on the height and width of the gate in the manufacture of the frame. Squeeze and cut the blanks for the frame from an iron corner with a cross section of 16-20 cm. Strictly in terms of the level form a future frame using lining. Then set the corners with the help of the square. Check that the diagonals of the design are the same, and then weld it.
In order for the canvas tightly adjacent to the surface of the frame, its external side should be smooth. Stick up welding seams. Make a lever from the remnants, which then welds to the corners of the frame, which will be their additional strengthening.
Step number 2 Make a frame
You need to make a frame for two swing flaps. Each of them is attached iron canvas. Use a 60x20 mm profile for the framework of the frame.
Guides insert into the frame, align each side. Between them, make a gap of 20 mm in order for the sash freely moving. Check the straight corners of the frame, then weld the profiles. Your frame is ready.
Step number 3 Sheathing
For welding gates, use a galvanized metal sheet with a thickness of 2-3 mm. You need to carve out right sizeAt the same time, be sure to impose sash to each other by 10-20 mm. Thus, the right canvas will be over to the left.
Weld up from below and attach it to the frame.
Strengthen the gate is possible by gaining: weld the horizontal iron belt at the altitude of one meter.
Step number 4 Installation
Install the power loop on the garage gate. The bottom must be welded to the garage frame, and the top to the outside. To do this, attach to the top of the loop and the sash curved metal line with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 cm. For a stronger connection, you can use the folding tab from the reinforcement.
To reliably fix the position of the mechanism requires Caps. To do this, you can use the design with a vertical pin. Drill holes in the ceiling and in the floor. Weigle a loop guide frame. For pin, use a pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm.
You can also use a clamping method for the design of the design.
Step number 5 Painting
Be sure to paint the cloth: it will protect it from the adverse effects of such as precipitation, moisture, damage. Before painting, immerscribe, apply several layers of paint for metal on the surface.
Step number 6 Montage
First of all, install the frame. It should contribute to the free movement of the sash.
Install the gate is easy. At first, the opening of the opening is attached to the outdoor and inner part of the frame using iron pins in a length of 15-18 cm. Obsalize their protruding ends, then stabbing the grinding and fill.
These parts firmly close with metal jumpers with a thickness of 20-40 mm every 60 cm. This is done so that in the near future it is not necessary to make construction. Next, we have a shutter on the loop and check how easy they move.
There are cases when during operation it is necessary to correct the work of the gate, as they function poorly for any reason.
The most common case, when, due to the too low arrangement of the gate, open them very hard, and sometimes it is not possible at all. If such a problem arises in the summer, what to say about winter when snow and ice interfere with their normal work. Alternatively, you can cut the gate, and the entrance to the garage is concrete. Due to this, a bias will be created, and the water will flock down. But if you work on this method, the size of the opening is reduced.
In order to raise the garage gate, such materials are needed: channel, brick, water and gates. You can proceed to work.
Stages of work:
Before dismantling the gate to the level above 3-4 brick rows, wash the solution with water between bricks. Place its place to place a corner or a channel. This is done before lifting the garage gate so that the building does not destroy. Otherwise, the roof of the garage will be eaten. Schweller or corner securely secure anchor bolts.
Sometimes the problem of the normal functioning of the gate may be their height. Its decision will require the experience and knowledge of the construction case. If your garage is brick, you need to remove 1 or 2 rows of laying, then enhance the resulting slope and raise the frame to the desired height.
There are many ways to solve the problem of the bad functioning of the gate. You can choose the optimal problem of solving. In this case, the most common and easy way The increase in space between the gate and the earth is to cut the bottom of the door sash with the help of a grinder.
Make a garage door with your own hands. From high-quality materials and from accurate step-by-step installation It will depend on how long the garage doors will function.
During the construction of the garage, many nuances are taken into account. One of them is the height of the gate, and it is not only about the height of the opening, but also about the height of the flaps above the soil level. The article will consider the reasons for which it is important to correctly calculate this height. In some cases, it is necessary to lift the garage gates higher due to certain circumstances. The article will also describe several ways that can be implemented.
When it comes to raising the gate, it concerns the swing structures. There are no such problems for folding structures, since they are capable of automatically change their level. There are several reasons why you have to resort to the lifting of the gate:
Old gate designs are performed from sheet metal, which has a thickness of 3 and more millimeter. By itself, this design of the gate is pretty heavy, so it is normal that over time they begin to see. The reason for this can serve as low-quality metal loops. Skatts lose their strength and sash partially leaning forward. This complicates or makes it impossible a normal process of closing the gate.
Another reason for which the gate is required is to wear a metal corner. In most cases, beams with a width of 20 cm are used, but small corners are used for savings, which are started to deform from constant loads. At the same time, the geometry of the frame is disturbed, which lead to problems with the gate. For proper design Swing doors never put in a soil. Even when proper installation This approach can be a problem in winter. The metal can be deformed under the influence of low temperatures and the sash will not be discovered, since they will chain asphalt.
Another problem that manifests itself at a low level of the gate is precipitation. If a significant amount of snow drops in winter, it is pretty to work hard to clear the space near the gate before entering the garage or leave it. With abundant rains, water simply will leak into the garage, which can create serious problems, especially if there are in the garage looking Yama or basement. In some cases, due to the grounding of the soil, there may be a problem with deformation of the bottom of the frame. It also leads to the need to raise the gate. Walls that lead to the drawdown of the gate and the impossibility of opening them can be deformed.
In most cases, working on the rise of the gate is better not to produce alone. By virtue of greater weight, you can get serious injuries of the hands and musculoskeletal system. There are several ways to increase, below will be considered:
Each of these methods requires its tool arsenal.
This option to increase the height of the sash above the ground level can be considered one of the easiest. Repair washers will help when the sash is poorly open due to loop wear. With proper skill, the installation of the washers can be performed independently. In this way, it is usually possible to raise the sash 1 cm. To implement the idea, the washers of the required thickness are selected or a selection of several elements is made. The hole in the washer should be so that the rod of the loop can enter it freely. Lubrication washers must be performed only on one side. The second must be fixedly fixed on the loop.
To carry out the operation, it is necessary to raise the sash, but not to remove them completely. It is enough to achieve the formation of a gap in which the washer can crawl. It is necessary to choose such a jack, which can be freely drove under the sash. If there is no such option, you can build a metal loop, some of which will be under the sash, and the second is clearly fixed on the jack. Another way of the rod jack can be installed under the sash if it is lifted. For this, it opens perpendicularly wall and several wooden wedges are driven under it. During the execution of these actions, you need to hold the gate so that they do not twist in one of the parties.
With the use of the jack, you can repair the deformed parts of the gate, which caused a saving. In this case, the jack is installed as far as possible from the loops, and the sash rises. As you like it is necessary to perform a sledge hammer blows that will contribute to the alignment of the deformed place. Perform the alignment is better for several small passages, then the result will be most effective. It should be understood that with a strong deformation of the ideal result, it may not be possible to achieve. If the frame was aligned, then the bending place is additionally necessary to increase the corner, which is welded from above.
Note! If the gate is aligned, in which there is a wicket, it is not worth removing it. If this is done, then after the procedure, it may not stand in place. Instead, it is necessary to rigidly fix the door with screed or welding sticks.
This option of lifting sash can be called one of the most complex and time consumption and forces. But the resulting result can be considered the most efficient. This option is also called the raising frame. To implement it, it will be necessary to completely remove the sash of the garage gate. In some cases, the frame can not be dismantled, but it is necessary to free it from the clamps that hold it in the wall. It can be metal pieces of fittings that are driven into the holes. It will be easier to limit if in the upper part of the frame as a jumper applies brickwork. In this case, it will be enough to remove one or more rows. Everything will depend on the required height of the garage gate frame.
If a concrete jumper is a concrete jumper over the crossbar, then there will be more effort. When using a standard element, it will be possible to raise the gate about 10 cm. This is due to the fact that it is at this level a concrete is, and then reinforcement is. It will take a perforator with a long brown. The diameter of the bera is selected at 10 or 12 mm. The grinder marks the line on which drilling will be carried out. It should be horizontal and is directly under the reinforcement. In a row, holes are drilled without a large clearance. The next step is made of chisel and begins chopping the top of the jumper. Once the task is completed, it is necessary to remove the remnants of concrete and align the surface of the jumper.
The next step will be the rise of the frame to the height. If metal clamps are already cut, you need to go through the perforator with a chisel in those places where the frame is concerned in the wall. It must be completely released and move freely. You can raise the frame in two ways:
In the first case, you must act since the middle. In this place is lined with a durable scrap and a slow rise begins. It is not worth starting from the edges, since the robe of the gate will simply embarcate in the opening. After a small lift, it is necessary to substitute the wooden struts under the frame. Next, you can move alternately to the left and right edge. As soon as one of them is raised, the wedge is also published under it. It is worth understanding that the extreme points may give in more difficult than the central one. When it is possible to achieve a large gap, one or more subfolded jacks are installed in it.
Further rise is made using jacks. At the same time, it is important to act synchronously with the assistant or perform a rise to a small level on each jack alternately. Do not try to do everything quickly, since the frame can skew. If this happened, then it is necessary to lower one of the jacks and knock the garage gate frame. The operation can be performed in another way. If it is impossible to put the struts and jack under the threshold of the frame, it is necessary to do it under its upper crossbar. The jacks in this embodiment are mounted in such a way as shown in the diagram above. Under them are made of high beams from the beams. On the head on the head lay the laying from the board so that there was no scope. The rim of the garage gate frame is also evenly necessary.
Note! In some cases, the threshold can be connected to the foundation, so it is not possible to raise it. Then the racks are cut off, and the upper part rises separately. After that, the small segments of the gate frame will need to be disordered from the corner.
After such an operation, the loop of the gate to digest in most cases is not required, since they are mounted on their usual place. The question arises with respect to the bottom of the gate, since the slot is formed there, equal to the height of the frame lifting. It can be closed, welded on the gate sheet metal. It is also suitable for the formation of a threshold, which will prevent the rainwater from entering the inside of the room. The last option is necessary if the gate was originally too low.
This option of increasing the height of the gate does not imply a gate dismantling and is one of simple options. It is worth noting that it can be realized only if the height of the threshold is sufficient and there is a small supply. Do not resort to this method when the lower part of the frame is almost at the level of the road. To implement the conceived, it will be necessary to establish horizontal struts that temporarily fix the frame. The gate sash opens and disassemble the bottom of the frame.
It is not worth throwing out, since this element will be involved in its place. For the next step, a jackhammer is needed or a powerful perforator. It will be necessary to knock down a part of the concrete threshold. After reaching the required level, the lower part of the gate frame is welded in its place and the horizontal struts are cleaned. You can proceed to the pouring of the threshold cement mortar.
This method is the easiest and most unwanted. It is possible to implement it only if the overall height of the gate is quite large and it is planned to purchase a dimensional car. A method of trimming the gate is used only when it is necessary to understand the level of the threshold so that the water does not fall inside. Bulgarian will need for work. First of all, it is necessary to separate the sheet metal from the frames of the flaps at the bottom. The lower crossbar is completely cut, but it will be needed later. After that, it is necessary to determine which height will be pulled by the gate.
Choklayin or thread with paint is fought off the line for which the cut is required. Bulgarian cuts off the lower part of the gate sheet material on the marked line. This in principle can be done on weight, but the best option There will be a complete dismantling of the sash and the execution of the cut in a horizontal position. In this case, there is less likelihood of cloth snacks and injury. After trimming each sash, it is necessary to weld the bottom strut in its place. Next, the gate is mounted in their place and the threshold is filling. Video about three options for lifting the gate is below.
As can be seen, in some cases, the rise of the gate is necessary due to certain circumstances. It can be performed in several ways. Some of them can be combined to achieve an optimal result. Another way of lifting the gate is to replace the folding option to rolling. In this case, the gate will rise, and not push. In this case, you can adjust the opening of the opening to the required dimensions.
With the advent of the minibus, I began to sharpen the question of how to raise the garage doors. Bus could enter only on the lasted wheels, which is extremely negatively affected by rubber, and most importantly - on my nerves. The information on this point of garage cases is not so much, even more so everyone has a garage in different ways. What I have - a garage with a height of 3m, but the gate is just 1.9m high, concrete plates Overlappings that lie along the garage and rest on the front and rear walls of the garage.
For the lift of the gate, we will need: - a corner of 100x100 mm length 7m for jumpers over the gate; - Corner 75x75 mm 2m long for vertical racks; - Studs and nuts for a spraying corner, in my case M10; - metal strip 5x50mm about 1m; - sheet metal 1250х1000х3 mm;
Various corners I. profile pipes To enhance the frame of the goal sash.
Step 1 - We define with the necessary height of the future gate, I decided to raise the gate to 45cm, while it is desirable to make it so that the bricks lying across the walls rest on the corner. Also carry communications, in my case it is wiring.
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We hide everything in the garage, dust will be much and place the work plan
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Transfer electrical wiring
Step 2 - It is necessary to make a stroke under the corner. I started on the inside of the garage. Because The height of the regiment of the corner is 7mm, then it is enough to choose a layer of a masonry solution between the rows of bricks. At the same time, we immediately make both vertical shoes to insert the corners of the vertical racks of the gate. It will take either a stroboresis with a great depth of cut, or a big Bulgarian, in my case it was a Bulgarian 230mm, with its help it turns out a depth of 80-90mm. Because of this I had to cut off a slight regiment of the corner, now it turned out 100x80mm, I immediately wanted to buy a 125x80mm at night, but it was sold only by segments of 12m, which I would strongly with an excess and would go to the space price.
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We make a stroke and clean the wall from unnecessary plaster
Step 3 - Installing the corner. In the corner drilled five holes for Rutter M10. I installed a corner into the wall at the same time between the bottom next to the bricks and the shelf of the corner drove the wooden struts around the perimeter, thereby the upper row of bricks began to easily fit the corner to the shelf. Then through the holes for the studs with a long brown, drill the whole wall through and installing studs.
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Install the corner and studs
Step 4 - We repeat the operations from the third item, only from the outside of the garage. At the same time, to match the openings of an external corner with studs from the inside of the garage, you first install the corner, then remove the studs and the same brown the future holes, then remove the corner and drill the holes slightly larger diameter than the hairpin and install again on the wall. Unforgettly fill the wooden struts and then we tighten two corners with nuts. 
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Install the corner from the outside
Step 5 - installation of vertical corners and their boil. At the same time, it is desirable to install a little at an angle (barely noticeable) to the upper part of the door of the gate, with the load from the upper crossbar, they will start to break the old racks of the gate and the sash will not cover.
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Installation of vertical corners
Step 6 - We invite the guys with a sledgehammer and knock out unnecessary bricks. At the same time, we leave some of the bricks in the middle before it did not negotiate the design.
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How to raise the garage gate - Invite the guys with a sledgehammer :)
Step 7 - welcome all the connections of old and new corners, also cutting the strip with each other internal and outer corners. Also in the slot between the horizontal corner and the upper chapter of the bricks are scored by wooden struts, it will evenly distribute the load along the entire length of the corner.
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We fasten and dislike the corners. Unforgettable in the gap fill the wooden struts
Step 8 - Now you can safely knock out the remaining part of the bricks.
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Keep the remaining part of bricks
Step 9 - Now you need to screw the new frame for the missing part of the gate. To do this, do not completely cut off the old crossbar, cutting out only where new frame elements will be installed.
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Cut a part of the old crossbar
We close the gate sash, fix it with tips to the old crossbar and weld a new flap frame. In my case, this is the corners of 50x50 mm. In this case, the door will later be as close as possible to the gate frame.
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We weld the corners of the sash to the gate frame. In the photo it is noticeable that the upper corner also first climbed to the frame at once, then the vertical vertical
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Install the backups for the metal sheet, because he weighs decent and just to keep it difficult to keep it
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And weld sheet
After all operations, you can cut temporary tacks and open the finished sash.
Step 10 - We repeat all the operations with the second flap of the gate, with one difference, because She enters the outbreak on the left sash, then under the top corner of the sash put the plate 5mm, it can not do if you do not need access to the garage or there is a wicket.
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We repeat all the operations with the second flap of the gate
Step 11 - weld the loop, this item is not required, it all depends on the height of the gate lift and old loops.
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We weld the loop
All - the gate raised.
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That's how the height of the gate
The main operation is to knock out old bricks and the creation of a new frame of the flaps passed in one day, preparatory work Of course, it took more time, but also no special tricks were used, no backups and subdomains of the roof, it is hard to fulfill even one. According to money: - Corner 100x100x7 mm 7m long - price 115r. (~ 58 $) - Corner 75x75 mm Length 2M - Price 15P (~ $ 8) - metal sheet 1250х1000х3 mm - Price 50P (~ 25 $) - Profile 40x40x2mm 6 meters - price 23P (~ 12 $) - Profile 20x20xx2mm 18meters - Price 35P (~ 18 $) - band 50x5mm 1 meter - price 3r. 70kop. (~ $ 2)
Other studs, nuts, electrodes, etc. - Action 60P. (~ $ 30)
Total approximately 300r. (~ $ 150) quite well. Now the bead seems some small in the garage :) The final height of the gate is now 2m 35cm and 2m 52cm width.
And after the entry, I will tell you how to cut the wicket into the garage gate and paint them.
Next part - inserting wicket in garage doors
www.drive2.ru.
During the construction of the garage, many nuances are taken into account. One of them is the height of the gate, and it is not only about the height of the opening, but also about the height of the flaps above the soil level. The article will consider the reasons for which it is important to correctly calculate this height. In some cases, you have to raise the garage gate in the brick garage higher due to certain circumstances. The article will also describe several ways that can be implemented.
When it comes to raising the gate, it concerns the swing structures. There are no such problems for folding structures, since they are capable of automatically change their level. There are several reasons why you have to resort to the lifting of the gate:
Old gate designs are performed from sheet metal, which has a thickness of 3 and more millimeter. By itself, this design of the gate is pretty heavy, so it is normal that over time they begin to see. The reason for this can serve as low-quality metal loops. Skatts lose their strength and sash partially leaning forward. This complicates or makes it impossible a normal process of closing the gate.
Another reason for which the gate is required is to wear a metal corner. In most cases, beams with a width of 20 cm are used, but small corners are used for savings, which are started to deform from constant loads. At the same time, the geometry of the frame is disturbed, which lead to problems with the gate. With proper design, the swollen doors never put in shorts with the soil. Even with proper installation, this approach can be a problem in winter. The metal can be deformed under the influence of low temperatures and the sash will not be discovered, since they will chain asphalt.
Another problem that manifests itself at a low level of the gate is precipitation. If a significant amount of snow drops in winter, it is pretty to work hard to clear the space near the gate before entering the garage or leave it. With abundant rains, the water simply will leak into the garage, which can create serious problems, especially if there is an observation pit in the garage or a basement. In some cases, due to the grounding of the soil, there may be a problem with deformation of the bottom of the frame. It also leads to the need to raise the gate. Walls that lead to the drawdown of the gate and the impossibility of opening them can be deformed.
In repair, two operations should be distinguished, completely different in terms of labor intensity and difficulty of execution:
Tip! If you do not have the skill of welding, any replacement of the frame or sash better to trust the specialists.
The simplest and affordable procedure, in the presence of skill, you can try to lift even a very heavy sash alone. For example, if the wear of the friction surface loops reached its limit, and the garage gate began to cling to the top edge of the scene, it is necessary to insert repair washers. At the same time, pay attention to the correct installation of two thin steel washers from the calene of polished steel. The total thickness of the washers should be such as to increase the height of the garage gate flap over the threshold beam. Each washer has a cutout on the width of the turntable loop and is lubricated only on the one hand.
In this case, there is no need to even raise and remove the garage gate, it is enough just to lift them into a height of several millimeters to insert them into the resulting gap in the hinges on a pair of steel washers. To raise the door sash, you need to turn them over an angle more than 90 °, then under the bottom slice of the sash, as close as possible to the axis of rotation, install a wooden or steel wedge. Several beats on the wedge will help to raise the gate by 2-3 mm. Next, you can insert a rogue jack, raise the sash to any height and even remove it if necessary. If the loops completely failed, you have to raise and digest.
In the same way, repairs are carried out, if due to the deformation of the loop or the garage gate frame, the sash has occurred. In this case, under the edge of the sash, the jack is installed as far as possible from the axis of rotation, they begin to slowly raise, hailing a sinking place of the loop or frame deformation. If there is a wicket in the design of the sash, it must be fixed with bolts or tie, but not to remove. Most often for 5-6 transitions, it is possible to deny the gate, if not, you need to raise the maximum height, install a jack in a horizontal position with an emphasis on the opposite frame rack and "squeeze the geometry" of the frame to completely align the beams and loops.
The most difficult and time-consuming operation to repair the garage gate is the rise of the frame. Heavy steel construction Belshaned in brick sidewalls, therefore, before lifting the design, the space should be released for lifting and remove the goal sash.
If the frame, together with the sash, it is planned to raise over the soil level due to the sedimentation of the basement of the garage, before lifting the gate, it will be necessary to knock out the top of the masonry on the brick or two, depending on the height of the lift. The perforator or construction hammer and chisel is knocked out cement from under the side racks of the frame and the threshold beam.
An ordinary scrap is pushing the lower part of the frame and lifted on a small height, first in the center, and after installing the first wedge, it is similar to lifting from the left and right edges. If you manage to raise the frame, then the side wedges are clogged. They are put, as a rule, from the opposite side of the threshold beam. After increasing the gap to 5-6 cm, it is necessary to install a rod jack up to 5 tons, and then lift the structure using the hydraulic mechanism.
Similarly raise the upper beam frame. Most often, it is necessary to raise if it is necessary to increase the height of the garage gate without dismantling them. After knocking out the upper rows of bricks, the grinder is cut off from two sides a piece of vertical racks along with the upper horizontal part of the frame. The cuts are performed above the wiring points of the loop.
The weight of the cut part of the frame is not more than 70 kg, so it is easy to raise it by the usual jack installed on the threshold. Between the top plank and the jack insert a log or a bar and carefully raise the desired height. After that, the cut-off pieces of similar material are screwed into the resulting gap in the frame.
Raising a heavy frame is necessary in compliance with safety regulations. Often, when you try to raise the frame, the heavy design is launching and tilted on working, so specialists recommend installing struts and blocking stretch marks from the cable.
stroy-frost.ru.
The safety of your property depends on the reliability and strength of the garage gate. In addition to the protective function that they do, can also serve as an attractive addition to your home.
What to do if for some reason you can't open the gate? For normal functioning, it is enough to raise them. The question arises, how to raise the gate in the garage? The answer is very simple: it is enough to be guided by some recommendations and everything will turn out.
Construction easily can be made with your own hands. In quality, it will not differ from the one that experts will be installed. At the same time, it is necessary to perform step-by-step recommendations on the installation of the gate and be extremely attentive. In addition, the installation of the garage gate will not take much time.
Consider positive moments, without which the gate will be simply unnecessary.
The size of the gate must provide a normal check-in. It all depends on the model of your car. The width of the opening should be such that when stopping the machines in it, the gap remained about 30 cm. The height for the passenger car should be from 1.70 to 2 meters, for a truck - 2.5 meters.
The gate must protect your property. Protective functions depend on the material from which the design will be made. Metal - the most reliable and durable. A steel galvanized sheet of 2.5 mm wide will perfectly cope with this task. With the help of overhead constipation for external pads and armored linings on the inner castle, you can additionally strengthen the design. Wooden doors are not very reliable, so they can be installed only on guarded parking.
The more densely the canvas adjacent to the frame, the more reliably the protection. Use vertical constipation to fix the desired door position. Vertical constipation prevent skews of the design, and also securely hold the door. You can use the seal for an even stronger fit of the structure to the frame.
There are such types of gates.
Consist of two sash sprinkling inwards or out. Basically, the second preference. For the normal functioning of the design, the presence of space is very important. This is the cheapest type of mechanism.
Open along the fence, from the inside. The main advantage is the lack of need for additional territory ahead of the device.
Includes individual sections that are refracted when opening, and thanks to the special system of springs and profiles, the web leaves up, under the ceiling. This type of gate also saves the territory.
The canvas contains aluminum plates coated with polymer. When opening it turns into a special box above the entrance to the garage.
In this type of device, the vertical lifting of the canvas to the ceiling takes place.
First of all, remove the measure to understand the size of the future gate. As a rule, with their own hands make swing metal garage doors. This kind of simpler and cheap. Retractable gates will be more difficult and more expensive, but it is also possible. You need to take a drawing, buy a ready-made system for assembly. The kit includes installation instructions, with which the installation is made. As a rule, they are installed on dachas, in private households, warehouses.
You can also reduce costs by installing automation yourself. Take the drawing to buy the necessary components and follow the instructions.
You can make a swing gate without buying expensive components. As materials use a profile, sheet metal 1-3 mm, steel corner.
Install the garage doors can be several steps:
Step number 1. Making frame
The frame includes an external and inner frame of a steel corner, the dimensions of which are 65x65 mm. Tools will be required:
Weiently focus on the height and width of the gate in the manufacture of the frame. Squeeze and cut the blanks for the frame from an iron corner with a cross section of 16-20 cm. Strictly in terms of the level form a future frame using lining. Then set the corners with the help of the square. Check that the diagonals of the design are the same, and then weld it.
In order for the canvas tightly adjacent to the surface of the frame, its external side should be smooth. Stick up welding seams. Make a lever from the remnants, which then welds to the corners of the frame, which will be their additional strengthening.
Step number 2 Make a frame
You need to make a frame for two swing flaps. Each of them is attached iron canvas. Use a 60x20 mm profile for the framework of the frame.
Guides insert into the frame, align each side. Between them, make a gap of 20 mm in order for the sash freely moving. Check the straight corners of the frame, then weld the profiles. Your frame is ready.
Step number 3 Sheathing
For welding gates, use a galvanized metal sheet with a thickness of 2-3 mm. It is necessary to cut the desired size, and be sure to impose sash to each other by 10-20 mm. Thus, the right canvas will be over to the left.
Weld up from below and attach it to the frame.
Strengthen the gate is possible by gaining: weld the horizontal iron belt at the altitude of one meter.
Step number 4 Installation
Install the power loop on the garage gate. The bottom must be welded to the garage frame, and the top to the outside. To do this, attach to the top of the loop and the sash curved metal line with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 cm. For a stronger connection, you can use the folding tab from the reinforcement.
To reliably fix the position of the mechanism requires Caps. To do this, you can use the design with a vertical pin. Drill holes in the ceiling and in the floor. Weigle a loop guide frame. For pin, use a pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm.
You can also use a clamping method for the design of the design.
Step number 5 Painting
Be sure to paint the cloth: it will protect it from the adverse effects of such as precipitation, moisture, damage. Before painting, immerscribe, apply several layers of paint for metal on the surface.
Step number 6 Montage
First of all, install the frame. It should contribute to the free movement of the sash.
Install the gate is easy. At first, the opening of the opening is attached to the outdoor and inner part of the frame using iron pins in a length of 15-18 cm. Obsalize their protruding ends, then stabbing the grinding and fill.
Welding gate alone These parts firmly close with metal jumpers with a thickness of 20-40 mm every 60 cm. This is done so that in the near future it is not necessary to make construction. Next, we have a shutter on the loop and check how easy they move.
There are cases when during operation it is necessary to correct the work of the gate, as they function poorly for any reason.
The most common case, when, due to the too low arrangement of the gate, open them very hard, and sometimes it is not possible at all. If such a problem arises in the summer, what to say about winter when snow and ice interfere with their normal work. Alternatively, you can cut the gate, and the entrance to the garage is concrete. Due to this, a bias will be created, and the water will flock down. But if you work on this method, the size of the opening is reduced.
In order to raise the garage gate, such materials are needed: channel, brick, water and gates. You can proceed to work.
Stages of work:
Before dismantling the gate to the level above 3-4 brick rows, wash the solution with water between bricks. Place its place to place a corner or a channel. This is done before lifting the garage gate so that the building does not destroy. Otherwise, the roof of the garage will be eaten. Schweller or corner securely secure anchor bolts.
Sometimes the problem of the normal functioning of the gate may be their height. Its decision will require the experience and knowledge of the construction case. If your garage is brick, you need to remove 1 or 2 rows of laying, then enhance the resulting slope and raise the frame to the desired height.
There are many ways to solve the problem of the bad functioning of the gate. You can choose the optimal problem of solving. At the same time, the most common and easy way to increase the space between the gate and the earth is to cut the bottom of the door sash with the help of a grinder.
Make a garage door with your own hands. From high-quality materials and from accurate step-by-step installation will depend on how long the garage doors will function.
svoivorota.ru.
The correctly installed garage opens well and does not float with water
Today we will deal with how to raise the garage from the metal to strengthen its reason, get rid of flooding, skew the gate and other problems. With the apparent difficulty with work, almost any person can cope with, and alone.
It is only necessary to have all the necessary devices at hand and strictly observe the safety technique in order not to harm health and do not spoil the design.
To make work quickly and efficiently, you need to prepare correctly. Therefore, you will have to deal with a number of important nuances to determine if your garage can be raised.
To begin with, we will analyze which factors cause the need to raise the garage, their several:
Every spring garages fit groundwater 
Saved garage - a frequent problem 
When pouring the floor, its level is strongly rising 
The skew led to the fact that the gate stopped closing With the cause of the problems figured out, now we will understand the factors that make the garage raising impossible:
Old garage may not survive recovery repair Tip! If the garage is rusty, and it is necessary to raise it, then you should pre-cook all the problem areas and enhance the framework of the corners or a chaserler.
Unsuccessful attempt to strengthen the foundation led to the collapse of the whole boxing 
The ax and lomick will not help solve the problem - you need tools more "serious" In this section you will learn two ways to raise the garage with your own hands. We chose different variants Work, they differ in both the approach and materials used. You need to choose the one that is best suited in your situation.
Instructions for lifting the design from the outside looks like this:
| Illustration | Description |
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| This technology is suitable for separate garages, which have access to any outer corner, and there is no shortage of space when working. In our case, the front part of the design was killed, because of which the gate opens very badly. We will only raise this part. |
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| We will use a powerful railway jack, designed for tens of tons. But you can use and hydraulic versions that are withstanding the load of at least three tons. The jack will be two so that we can alternately raise the parties, and at the same time it was not necessary to carry a device from place to place. |
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| First of all, you need to dig a pit for the installation of the jack. If you have a design standing on Earth, then everything will be very simple. If there is a foundation or a flooded break around the garage, you will have to break the concrete to ensure normal access to the frame. |
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| The rise is made like this:
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| The work is done very carefully:
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| As a support, we will use the most budget solution: Wooden pads impregnated with bitumen mastic. So that the mastic impregnate the material is better, it can be preheated. And you can apply the composition as a conventional brush and by dipping into any container. The second option is preferable, but if there is no suitable tank, then you can do and brush. The price of mastic is small, and wooden pads can be found for free. |
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| In order for the pads not to fall into the ground, the stands are needed. We use a 40 mm thick board, but if you have concrete elements of a suitable form, you can put them. The board is processed in the same way as the main backups. |
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| Supports are as follows:
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If you need to raise the structure from the inside, the workflow will look like this:
| Illustration | Description |
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| The impressive device is complicated by the fact that most often the floor inside the garage is covered with concrete. You need to knock out some of the floor, then choose the soil to the required depth. The pit is done under the bearing frame so that you rest in it when lifting. |
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| On the other hand, the same work is done. The easiest way to beat the concrete perforator. If it is not, you will have to work with a sledgehammer and scrap. A special problem can be Armopoyas. You cannot break the reinforcement manually, you must first release the space from the concrete, and then cut the metal with a grinder or handbank for metal, if the power tool is not at hand. |
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| The paper uses hydraulic jacks for 4 tons. The lifting process is similar to the above technology: there are two lifts, work is carried out alternately, avoiding distortion and controlling the reliability of the frame. Important! Keep the doors open to keep the garage if necessary. |
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| To determine how much you need to raise the design, first look at the gap under the door sash. It should be at least 3 cm so that everything is easy to open even in winterWhen the crust of ice and snow is formed on Earth. |
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| At the corners of the frame are put backups from concrete or brick. If you have a small clearance, you can use concrete paving slabs or something else. The main thing is that the elements used are durable and durable. |
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| Along the walls, the support elements are also put. They should be located 30-40 cm so that the entire carrier part of the framework standing on a solid base and the design was not exposed to deformation effects. |
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| From cement and sand is preparing a solution that we will pour all empties around the perimeter, creating monolithic base. The components are mixed in the ratio of 1 part of the cement to the four parts of the sand. Water is added little to obtaining consistency thick sour cream. If the solution you need a lot, then the crushed stone can be used as a filler, it is added to the components indicated above, in the amount of 3-4 parts. Instead of rubble you can use broken brick Or concrete, as well as stones. |
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| The solution is poured into all voids. From the outside, you can put the formwork board, so that the solution does not grow. In the place of the progress of the body to the gate, you can make a small rise so that you are more convenient to travel to the garage and leave it. |
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| Damaged gender also need to pour. If there are pieces of old concrete, you can put it and pour all empties to level the surface and strengthening it. |
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| As can be seen in the photo, we strengthened the driveway from the outside. The gate opens easily, you can use the garage after 2-3 days when the concrete will type the initial strength. |
Now you know what to do if the garage hits and you can choose suitable solution For their situation. To figure out the topic even better, browse the video, in it, many moments of the workflow are shown clearly.
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Due to the features of the design of the sash, under the hundred kilo weighing, in the open state of its own gravity and the busting of the wind they saw and strover in such a way that close the gate in the garage to the rigorous and deformed frame, without rattling with their own hands, is almost impossible. You have to raise the gate, remove and leve out the loop.
The old designs of the garage garage out of the five-millimeter metal sheet are able to withstand a huge load, while the heavy construction was highlighted on the frame from the bracket to 20 cm wide. Raise or repair accounted for no more than once every 20 years, and mainly due to loop wear.
Raise the garage doors or even just remove with the loops yourself, without the help of neighbors, it is almost impossible, so such works have always been carried out by a brigade, at a minimum, of three to four people. Modern garage gates have to raise and shoot almost every couple of years, mainly due to fine metal or illiterate garage design:
Important! In most cases, to align or correct the defect, you have to raise the gate in the garage and remove them from the loops.
In repair, two operations should be distinguished, completely different in terms of labor intensity and difficulty of execution:
Tip! If you do not have the skill of welding, any replacement of the frame or sash better to trust the specialists.
The simplest and affordable procedure, in the presence of skill, you can try to lift even a very heavy sash alone. For example, if the wear of the friction surface loops reached its limit, and the garage gate began to cling to the top edge of the scene, it is necessary to insert repair washers. At the same time, pay attention to the correct installation of two thin steel washers from the calene of polished steel. The total thickness of the washers should be such as to increase the height of the garage gate flap over the threshold beam. Each washer has a cutout on the width of the turntable loop and is lubricated only on the one hand.
In this case, there is no need to even raise and remove the garage gate, it is enough just to lift them into a height of several millimeters to insert them into the resulting gap in the hinges on a pair of steel washers. To raise the door sash, it is necessary to twist them at an angle of more than 90 o, then under the bottom cut of the sash, as close as possible to the axis of rotation, install wooden or steel wedge. Several shocks on the wedge will help to raise the gate by 2-3 mm. Next, you can insert a rogue jack, raise the sash to any height and even remove it if necessary. If the loops completely failed, you have to raise and digest.
In the same way, repairs are carried out, if due to the deformation of the loop or the garage gate frame, the sash has occurred. In this case, under the edge of the sash, the jack is installed as far as possible from the axis of rotation, they begin to slowly raise, hailing a sinking place of the loop or frame deformation. If there is a wicket in the design of the sash, it must be fixed with bolts or tie, but not to remove. Most often, for 5-6 transitions, it is possible to correct the gate, if not, you need to raise the maximum height, install a jack in a horizontal position with an emphasis on the opposite rack of the frame and "squeeze the geometry" frame to completely align the beams and loops.
The most difficult and time-consuming operation to repair the garage gate is the rise of the frame. A heavy steel construction is concreted into brick sidewalls, therefore, before lifting the design, the space should be released for lifting and remove the goal sash.
If the frame, together with the sash, it is planned to raise over the soil level due to the sedimentation of the basement of the garage, before lifting the gate, it will be necessary to knock out the top of the masonry on the brick or two, depending on the height of the lift. The perforator or construction hammer and chisel is knocked out cement from under the side racks of the frame and the threshold beam.
An ordinary scrap is pushing the lower part of the frame and lifted on a small height, first in the center, and after installing the first wedge, it is similar to lifting from the left and right edges. If you manage to raise the frame, then the side wedges are clogged. They are put, as a rule, from the opposite side of the threshold beam. After increasing the gap to 5-6 cm, it is necessary to install a rod jack up to 5 tons, and further lift the structure using the hydraulic mechanism.
Similarly raise the upper beam frame. Most often, it is necessary to raise if it is necessary to increase the height of the garage gate without dismantling them. After knocking out the upper rows of bricks, the grinder is cut off from two sides a piece of vertical racks along with the upper horizontal part of the frame. The cuts are performed above the wiring points of the loop.
The weight of the cut part of the frame is not more than 70 kg, so it is easy to raise it by the usual jack installed on the threshold. Between the top plank and the jack insert a log or a bar and carefully raise the desired height. After that, the cut-off pieces of similar material are screwed into the resulting gap in the frame.
Raising a heavy frame is necessary in compliance with safety regulations. Often, when you try to raise the frame, the heavy design is launching and tilted on working, so specialists recommend installing struts and blocking stretch marks from the cable.
