When you start building, you want everything to be done as quickly as possible, cheaper and more reliable. All these factors can be satisfied by a house built from a cinder block with your own hands. You can make this building material yourself. We will consider both the technology of its production and the construction process from marking to installation of the roof.
Advantages and disadvantages
Cinder block
At some point in time, the cinder block became very popular. This is explained by the fact that the waste material that remained after the smelting of the metal had to be used somewhere. They decided to use it as a filler for building components. This is how this artificial stone appeared. But then he was not distinguished by the most good qualities, because from an environmental point of view, it had certain drawbacks. It had to be kept on the street for about a year and only after that it had to be put into operation. Today the situation is a little different and it seems that it is the most popular material for the construction of low-rise buildings. Its strengths are:
Lightweight blocks with decorative trim
Disadvantages:
Building blocks
If you decide to purchase cinder blocks, then there are several nuances that you should pay attention to. It is good if it is possible to take measurements with a dosimeter. Thanks to this, you can determine how environmentally friendly the material is. Look at the conditions in which it was stored. It is important that this is not an open space where it has been exposed to rainfall. There should be no chips or cracks on it. Use a tape measure to check its dimensions. The parallel sides must match.
Cinder block making machine
Manufacturing technology is quite simple. For successful advancement in this direction, it will be necessary to acquire some equipment, as well as accurately observe the proportions. So, the first step is to design a vibratory rammer. For this you will need:
The motor is fixed from the washing machine
The motor can be used from an old washing machine or from a grinder. No more power required. The main thing is to place the weight correctly, which will shift the center of gravity.
The sequence of work will be as follows:
Machine tools for the production of various cinder blocks
Today, there are many options for ready-made machines on sale. If you do not want to waste time and energy, then you can simply buy or rent it.
Cinder block manufacturing
The key to strong and resistant to various influences of the blocks is a properly prepared solution. If using a rammer, it must be sufficiently dry. If the proportions of water are incorrectly calculated, then after lifting the container, it will simply disintegrate. As a filler, you can use ash from burnt coal, broken bricks, fine gravel, slag, etc. To give additional resistance to moisture, plasticizers are used. The first version of the mixture will be like this:
Second cooking method:
The best consistency can be roughly determined as follows: you need to take the ready-made solution and squeeze it in your hand. It must keep its shape. If you then throw it to the ground, it should spread out. After squeezing it again, it should hold its shape again.
The best place to work is open air. Under these conditions, the mortar will dry and set faster, which will increase productivity. It is desirable that the place is level. It could be concrete walkway or a lining made of sheet metal, boards knocked into shields, etc. The block preparation process will be as follows:
Partition cinder block
Often the partitions are laid out from blocks that are smaller in size. For their manufacture, it will be necessary to make a form according to a similar principle, as described above, but its dimensions will be 120 × 400 × 200 mm. It is better to use rectangular inserts as voids formers. They must be of such a size that the walls are at least 3 cm.
Calculating the number of blocks
When calculating blocks, you need to take into account doors and windows
Projects need to be approached rationally. It makes no sense to be overly economical, since this will affect the quality of the future structure. There is also no reason for excessive wastefulness. This is especially true for the number of blocks. Calculations should start with deciding on the thickness of the wall. This size is due to several factors, such as climatic conditions and soil conditions. If in winter period time, the temperature drops too low, then it may be necessary to make a wall of 40‒60 cm. In other areas, 20 cm will be enough, which will also be insulated with polystyrene or polystyrene foam. Masonry can be carried out in several ways:
Suppose that a project of a future house with dimensions of 10 × 12 m was chosen, one-story with a wall height of 3 m. The first step is to calculate the total area of the walls. To do this, multiply the length by the width. 3 × 10 = 30 m2, 12 × 3 = 36 m2, now we double and add these results, since there are two identical planes. 30 × 2 + 36 × 2 = 132 m2. So the end result is 132 m2. Determine the area of one block - 0.2 × 0.4 = 0.08 m2. We divide the total area of the walls by the area of the block - 132: 0.08 = 1650. But this figure is fair if the wall is planned in one stone. If it is two, then the final result will be 3300 blocks.
These calculations deliberately do not take into account the openings that will be made for windows and doors. This is done so that there is a small margin. While working with the material, there may be rejection, and our surplus compensates for it.
The calculation of the amount of stone for the partitions is done in the same way. In fact, the final figure will be the sum of the blocks for the main walls and the interior.
Laying the foundation
Recessed strip foundation
As mentioned above, this type of construction requires a high foundation. In addition, it must be very strong so that in no case cracks begin to form, which will necessarily pass through the entire wall. The work will be carried out in the following order:
Site marking
Reinforcement of the foundation
Compaction of concrete with a vibrator
If you decide not to fill in such a high foundation, as described earlier, then you need to take care of the construction of the basement. This is an extension of the foundation that protrudes above the surface of the earth. It is important to remember that before starting to lay it, it is necessary to provide waterproofing. For this, roofing material or bikrost is laid on the foundation. The height of such a structure should be 70 cm or more. Further, a layer of waterproofing is again laid on it, and only after that the construction of walls begins.
Walling
When erecting walls, the main task is to make them even, without protrusions. The first step towards this result is to determine the highest foundation angle. The point is that it is difficult to deduce the ideal value during filling. This measurement is made using a water level. In advance, you need to make sure that its length is enough for the length of the foundation.
There is a fishing line stretched along the outer edge of the wall
Adding a plasticizer to the solution
During the laying of the last few rows, you must remember to brick up the studs. It will be good if you manage to bend them and tie them with a seam of one of the rows. They should protrude above the surface at a distance exceeding the height of the Mauerlat bar by 4 cm. The step can be observed in 1 m or less. Rolled wire can be used instead of pins. Another option would be to fill the armored belt with the installation of studs into it.
Roof manufacturing
The installation of the rafter system and the laying of the flooring should be started as soon as possible after the end of the pasture of the walls. Before choosing the desired shape of the future roof, it is necessary to analyze what is the maximum amount of precipitation that can fall, what gusts of wind there are. You also need to consider what buildings or trees are nearby. Usually all data can be obtained from the relevant services. This information will affect which angle needs to be observed.
If the area is famous for the presence of strong gusts of wind, then the slope of the roof must be maintained in the region of 15‒20 °. Even with sufficiently strong snow drifts, the layer will not remain, it will simply swell. In the case when the territory is quiet, but there is a lot of precipitation, then the optimal solution would be a range of 35‒40 °. With such a slope, snow cannot be trapped in large layers.
Looks great on private houses gable roof or all kinds of multi-slope variations. We will consider an example of the construction of the first option. If the principle is well understood, then you can move on to more complex structures.
Rafter device
It is best to close the gables as quickly as possible. This must be done so that the wind does not blow the precipitation inside. So moisture will not accumulate and destroy the building material.
Internal and external decoration
External finishing
It is advisable not to leave the walls bare for a long period. Their finishing can be carried out in parallel with roofing works... For the outside, insulation with foam is an ideal solution. It is fastened with special dowels, umbrellas. Better to start from the bottom. The first step is to mount the metal starter bar. A profile for drywall can act in its role. It needs to be set by level, which will simplify the task in the future. A hole is drilled in the wall through a sheet of insulation using a perforator. On reverse side glue is applied to the insulation; ordinary polyurethane foam with low expansion can act in its role. Each element should fit snugly against the previous one. During installation, it is advisable to check the evenness of the surface using a level. After that, the entire surface is covered with an adhesive intended for this purpose. Together with its application, a reinforcing mesh is laid, which will prevent the appearance of dents from impacts. The last layer will be decorative trim... It can be a bark beetle or embossed plaster.
House cladding with siding
The house can be sheathed with siding. In this case, you can also use for insulation mineral wool... A product with a high density, for example, foam, is suitable. First, the lathing is mounted under the cladding. After that, insulation is inserted into the space between the beams. You can fix it to the wall in the same way as styrofoam.
As noted above, for interior decoration it will be almost impossible to use plaster. But this is not a problem, since you can sheathe the rooms with drywall. This will compensate for any irregularities as well as apply the desired finish. It is important to take care of the vapor barrier so that moisture does not seep into the cinder block.
It will take a sufficient amount of time to complete all these works. But with good organization and planning, you can meet the deadlines. It is always interesting to look at finished projects. Share your observations and suggestions in the comments to this article.
In this video you will see how you can make a cinder block at home:
Watch the process of laying the cinder block:
Cinder block house
House and garage from cinder block
The house is built of blocks with decorative finishing
House with an extension
Two-storey cinder block house
This house will have a ventilated facade.
This cinder block house has been around for many years.
Houses made of cinder blocks are becoming more and more popular every year. The cinder block technique was developed in the 70s of the 20th century and became famous for its simple and fast construction process. Building a house from cinder blocks with your own hands is an opportunity to save money and become the owner of a reliable and warm home.
To build a house from cinder blocks, it is not necessary to contact professional builders, you can study the method of cinder block construction and do everything yourself. First, develop a project, calculate how much material you need, and you can get to work.
Before you start creating a project and building a house, you need to find out about the pros and cons of cinder block buildings.
Advantages of cinder block houses:
But there is also two significant disadvantages:
The main requirements for the foundation: it must be high to protect the house from moisture, which the cinder block is so afraid of, and well insulated. If the house is one-story and without reinforced concrete floors, then the foundation does not have to be super-strong.
For the construction of the foundation for a cinder block house you will need: crushed stone, cement, gravel, reinforcement, sand, concrete mixer, cinder blocks, opata, level, hydro and vapor barrier material.
This process is carried out in several stages:
The construction of the basement, if provided, can begin in 7 days, and the construction of the walls can only be carried out after complete drying (after about 1 month).
First, the corners are set so that the walls are perfectly even. One cinder block is placed in each corner, then it is leveled with a building level. Stretch the twine along which you will lay out the walls. Before starting work, prepare:
The cinder block is laid in one of the traditional ways:
Important to remember that the laying of cinder blocks can only be done at temperatures above 15 degrees. After the preparatory work, build the first row of blocks. The height of the seam should not be more than 1.5 cm, otherwise this will lead to a deterioration in the thermal insulation properties. Do not fill the cavities in the cinder blocks with cement!
When erecting the first three rows, check the wall with a level as often as possible, it should be strictly vertical. Cinder blocks are stacked with an offset of ½ block.
To avoid cracks and make the structure stronger, builders advise using reinforcement. To do this, you will need fittings and electromills or wall chasers. With the help of electrofilters, depressions are made in cinder blocks, reinforcement is inserted into them and poured cement mortar... This procedure is repeated in every fourth row.
Video of building a house from cinder blocks, masonry.
When the walls are up, you can start building the roof. This process cannot be postponed for a long time, so as not to expose the cinder blocks to the destructive effects of atmospheric precipitation. The same goes for external and internal finishing work.
To be comfortable in the house in cold weather, you need take care of building insulation and. Experts say that it is better to insulate the building from the outside, since this guarantees 70% of the effect, sometimes internal insulation is not even required.
Front internal insulation a vapor barrier layer is mounted on the walls and ceiling of the building, after which you can use mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. No vapor barrier is required for the exterior walls.
If you want to save on insulation, then use foam. This is the most cheap stuff, in the future it is plastered and painted. You can also buy polystyrene foam, which has a low level of water absorption, so there is no need to install a vapor barrier.
Wall insulation with foam plastic and decorative work are carried out in 5 stages:
For painting, it is better to choose acrylic or silicone plaster. And if you are not limited in finances, then for insulation it is better to purchase polyurethane foam - modern material, which is applied to walls by pouring or spraying. The result is a seamless coating that does not allow cold air and moisture to pass through.
If you are building a house from cinder blocks, then first you need to calculate the amount of material. Those who produce the building material themselves can make the missing amount at any time, it is only important to remember that the blocks will take time to become durable.
To calculate the number of cinder blocks, you need to know the thickness of the wall. It may differ depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is being built. In the middle lane, a thickness of 20-40 cm is sufficient, and in order for the house to retain heat in severe winters, the size must be at least 60 cm.
When calculating remember basic construction terms: half a stone (20 cm), into a stone (40 cm), one and a half stones (60 cm), two stones (80 cm).
We will carry out calculations for the most common parameters that are used in the construction of a house from cinder blocks. For example, you need to build a 9x7 building, the height of the walls is 3 meters. The area of one cinder block is 0.08 m (0.4x0.2).
The first thing to do is calculate the number of blocks per meter of wall. For this 1 / 0.08 sq.m., 12.5 pieces are obtained. The wall will be built in two rows, therefore 12.5x2 = 25 cinder blocks. Now let's calculate the area of the house: (9 + 9 + 7 + 7) x3 = 96 sq.m. 9 and 7 - the length of the walls, and 3 - the height. For each square meter, 25 cinder blocks are needed, which means that for the construction of the whole house: 25x96 = 2400 pieces.
The calculations do not take into account openings, but this is not necessary. Cinder block is a fragile material, so you need to take it with a margin.
How much does it cost to build a cinder block house? You can build a house from cinder blocks with your own hands, but do not forget about the development of the project. You can do it yourself or entrust it to professionals. The main thing is to take into account the climatic conditions and characteristics of the soil, the stability of the building.
The average cost of one cinder block is 35 rubles. For a 9x7 house, 2,400 pieces will be needed, that is, this material will cost 84 thousand rubles. But this is only the construction of walls, you should also not forget about the construction of the foundation, the construction of the roof, sound and heat insulation, finishing work.
Many of them are happy with the construction process, as the house can be built during the holidays. Save on the material itself and the mortar, which is two times less than for brickwork. Houses made of this material look original, warm in winter and cool in summer.
Cinder block houses Are reliable and durable buildings. For their construction, it will not take a lot of time and financial expenses, especially if you produce cinder blocks yourself. But in order for the building to serve for a long time, and to live in it comfortably, you need to choose the right materials for insulation and decoration.
Building a house from handmade cinder blocks (wall blocks) is quite real. In addition, it is a fast and cost-effective option for the construction of a low-rise building.
We need:
Mix the mortar for pouring forms in the following proportions: sand-cement-filler 3: 1: 5. We put them in the forms of bottles or blanks where we planned to get voids and fill them with the prepared solution. When the mixture has set enough (after 5-6 hours), the blanks (bottles) can be removed.
We leave the form in this form for 24 hours for the mixture to set. After the specified period of time, we release the blocks from the forms and again pour the cinder concrete solution into them.
We put the finished blocks in a stack for drying, so that they acquire the strength of concrete (dry 28-30 days). And only after all this we will use the cinder blocks to build a house.
The foundation of the house should be high (75 cm above the ground), treated with a liquid waterproofing coating well enough, and it is not necessary to make it from reinforced monolithic concrete (provided that you have not planned several floors).
The first stage of our construction looks like this: on a pillow (about 50 cm high) of crushed stone and sand, we install the formwork and fill everything with concrete.
The concrete of the foundation will set in about 7 days. Then you can make the basement of the house, but we begin to erect the walls only after the final hardening of the concrete, after about 30 days.
It should be noted that it is imperative to make high-quality horizontal waterproofing between the plinth and cinder blocks.
In order for the walls to be guaranteed even, it is necessary to expose the corners. Therefore, in each corner we lay on a cinder block and level the corner with a building level. Then we pull the twine around the perimeter, along which we will lay out the walls.
A plasticizer should be added to the mortar for masonry, this will increase the strength of the structure being erected, and also extend the life of the mortar before it begins to solidify, so we will mix new portions less often.
A thick layer of mortar should not be applied between cinder blocks, so as not to create additional cold bridges in the masonry. A layer up to approx. 15 mm is recommended.
A mallet (rubber hammer) weighing 600 grams will not be superfluous. for tamping blocks. Excessive mortar on the seams should be removed with a trowel.
We finished laying the walls, let them dry completely - the time comes for the construction of the next floor and the roof. This is where you need to take into account the weight of the rafter beams and floors.
It is advisable to strengthen the upper row of wall blocks with an iron belt if we use something much heavier than wood for the interfloor floors.
But there is no need to hesitate with the construction of the roof in order to protect the open walls from precipitation. We do not tighten both from the inside and exterior decoration, additional insulation of the house from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam or basalt slabs is desirable.
P.S. And for dessert, I suggest watching a video clip: Building a house from a cinder block
Building a house with your own hands from a cinder block is considered quite convenient and fast way construction, but any fact has both positive and negative sides, this is what we will try to figure out. We will also think about how to make this building material on our site.
For small buildings, this material is considered the most convenient and practical. In addition, the cheapness of cinder blocks has long been known, this fact becomes even more noticeable if you produce building blocks right on your site. Further, the advantages of this material only continue to crumble, for example, you may not even be a professional bricklayer to successfully build a house from a cinder block. At the right technology you will also have a "warm" home, because air pockets will be the best insulator.
But there are drawbacks to such a material, for example, it is very afraid of water, so you have to guess the weather and after construction, thoroughly plaster the walls, the masters advise making a layer up to 2 cm on one side and on the other. Also, this "fear" is reflected in the foundation, or rather on its isolation and height. To prevent moisture from reaching the blocks, you need to make the foundation higher, and it is even better to provide a basement, and then make a thorough waterproofing between it and the first row of the wall. It will be advisable to finish construction before the rainy season, and even put a roof so that dampness and moisture will not damage the material. Fortunately, speed is a plus of building from cinder blocks.
When buying blocks on the market, you should be able to assess their quality and harmlessness. After all, any filler for cement in their manufacture can be taken, sometimes even combustion waste, for example, ash. Such blocks will not be good, better focus on expanded clay, sawdust, crushed stone, brick chips. Do not hesitate to check the strength of the purchased material. You need to drop it, without effort, just lift it up a meter and a half and release. If it breaks, such a product is not suitable for you, even a crack is considered unacceptable. Only a few chips testify to the required strength.
The amount of purchased material is calculated in several stages, first you determine the parameters of your structure and the thickness of the walls, and then you calculate the number of blocks, depending on the geometric parameters of the building elements. First of all, we decide what the thickness of the walls will be, this will determine the type of masonry. If the most severe winter is no more than 20 ° C frost, then 45 cm of the wall is quite enough, but if the temperature drops below, then it is better to make a thickness of 60 cm or more.
Now we look at the parameters of purchased blocks or home-made ones and determine how to lay the cinder block, which will help us to achieve the planned wall width as conveniently as possible. These can be the following options: half a stone, one stone, one and a half and two stones. And then comes the most important part - the calculation of the purchased material. You need to calculate the perimeter and multiply by the expected wall thickness. This will give you the area that the masonry edge should cover.
The masters of the REMOSKOP.RU website have prepared a special calculator for you Calculation of building blocks... You can easily calculate the required number of blocks.
For example, you lay out a wall in two stones, the dimensions of which are 200x400 mm, that is, an area of 0.08 m2. You need to cover an area of 12 m (house perimeter) * 0.4 m (wall thickness) = 4.8 m2. This means that to lay out the first row of blocks on the entire perimeter of the house, 4.8 / 0.08 = 60 blocks are required. Next, estimate the height of one block, the expected height of the walls, and calculate the number of rows. For example, the height of the block is 20 cm, the height of the walls is expected to be 2.5 m, which means that the rows will need 250/20 = 12.5 (round off 13). Therefore, a total of about 13 * 60 = 780 blocks will be needed.
This calculation was made roughly, without taking into account the openings for windows and doors, but we will keep this figure as the main one in order to have a supply of stone in case of breaks, battle and other unforeseen situations during transportation and construction, in addition, some blocks will probably have to be cut.
As we already mentioned, you can make cinder blocks with your own hands. For manufacturing, you will need a special mold for pouring, water, cement, filler (sand, crushed stone, slag, expanded clay, etc.) and some devices for creating a cavity in the stone, for example, bottles or special blanks. Forms can be made of wood or metal, and it is better if there are a lot of them, because the blocks will have to be dried directly in them. The strength of the cement is taken at your discretion, the project of your house is closer to you and you know about further loads on the walls, whether it be a roof or floors.
The solution is mixed, as for pouring, the proportions are approximately the following: cement-sand-filler 1: 3: 5. All this is poured into a mold with exposed bottles or blanks in places where cavities are planned. After 5 hours, when the mixture sets a little, the blanks can be taken out. Now the resulting form is left to set for 24 hours. Then the blocks are taken out of the molds, and new ones can be poured, and these are stacked to dry for 28 days, until the strength of the concrete is acquired, only after that they can be used in the construction of a house.
The laying of this stone is somewhat different from the brick that is familiar to many, however, in some cases, we even win, so let's take a closer look at the process.
We have already mentioned that the foundation needs to be high (up to 70 cm above the ground) and well insulated, but it is not necessary to make it super strong, of course, unless you have several floors or reinforced concrete floors. The first stage of your construction should look something like this: a formwork is installed on a high cushion of sand and crushed stone (about 50 cm), in which the reinforcement is placed, and all this is poured with concrete of medium or high strength. After a week, the foundation will set, and if you have a basement conceived, it can already be done, and the walls can be started directly only after the concrete is completely cured, i.e. after 28 days. There must be high-quality waterproofing under the plinth and above it.
First, we expose the corners, this guarantees us even walls in the future. To do this, in the corners we put one cinder block from each wall, level the corner with a building level, and stretch the rope along the perimeter, along which we will lay out the future walls. It remains to take the solution and start laying. The first 3 rows will be the most important, they set the percentage of quality for the entire wall, so more often apply a level, both horizontally and vertically. Some masters add a plasticizer to the masonry mortar, thereby increasing the strength of the future structure and extending the life of the mortar until it hardens, so as to mix new portions less often.
We do not recommend applying a thick layer of cement between the cinder blocks, as you create additional channels for the cold, because the working solution does not have such insulating qualities as the cinder block, so a layer up to 1.5 cm is sufficient. Do not fill the cavities in the blocks with cement, this will reduce the thermal insulation, they can then be covered with something warmer, for example, slag. When laying, you will need a rubber mallet to tap the blocks and a trowel to remove excess mortar from the seams. By the way, even a one-story building you will have to erect using scaffolding, it is extremely inconvenient to lay blocks from a stepladder, this can worsen the quality of the building.
After the end of the masonry of the walls and the complete drying of the elements, the time comes for the next floor or roof. Here the question is about the severity of the floors or beams of the rafter system, if you use something heavier than wood, then the upper row of cinder blocks must be strengthened with an iron belt. And again we are not afraid to repeat ourselves, we should not hesitate with the construction of the roof, we must not allow existence open walls in the rainy season. Also, do not hesitate with external and internal decoration, you can even additionally insulate the building from the inside and outside with a thin layer of mineral wool, for example. The main component of success in cinder block construction is to protect the building from the external environment as quickly as possible.
Developers often prefer block building materials, which can speed up the construction of the building, lighten the structure and reduce the load on the foundation. But before building a house from a cinder block, you should study the features of this type of concrete, compare its pros and cons, find out the basic rules for the construction of buildings from it. It is advisable to consider standard projects cinder block cottages or country houses.
For the manufacture of light blocks, a filler in the form of expanded clay, ash, blast furnace and volcanic slag, shell rock, sand, sawdust, brick waste, crushed stone is introduced into the concrete solution. After pouring into molds, the mixture is pressed, the blocks are removed from the dies and dried for a month.
The finished material has a number of positive qualities: light weight, low heat transfer coefficient. The optimal thickness of cinder block walls for a house built in central Russia is 0.6 - 0.9 m, in a climatic zone with frosts down to -20 ° C - 0.45 m.
Advantages of cinder block buildings:
Disadvantages of houses built from cinder block:
To avoid the rapid destruction of buildings, when buying a material, it is checked for radioactivity and strength (they just drop a block from a height of 1.5 m - while it must remain intact). Expanded clay, crushed stone, sawdust or brick chips are preferable as a filler.
The exterior finish for a cinder block building is chosen from special high-strength plaster, facing bricks, siding or lining. Heat insulators are mounted under the cladding: mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam. This cladding also increases the sound insulation of the walls.
In order not to waste time and money on individual design, based on the development of professional architects and designers. How to choose a project? They are presented in catalogs, sections of which contain photos and descriptions of houses with an indication of their overall dimensions and area, list of materials and estimated cost. After choosing an acceptable option, a set of drawings is studied, consisting of:
House with attic space
Sometimes developers have a question: is it possible to build a house with a cinder block attic? The bearing capacity of the material allows you to do this, while saving on wall elements. Not needed for the attic exterior decoration- replaces it roof structure, roofing material and insulation for the roof. A room with pitched walls makes it possible to use it for a gym, office, workshop.
Projects of economy class houses from cinder blocks with an attic and a garage have their pros and cons. When planning construction, two main questions should be resolved: what will be the height of the floor of the upper floor and which room will be located under the roof. Advantages of houses with attic:
Disadvantages of an economy class house with an attic:
The company "Dream House" offers projects attic houses from autoclaved cellular YTONG blocks with a thickness of 50 to 500 mm.
1. Cottage "Meissen". The dimensions of the building are 18.4x12.85 m, the total area is 270 m 2, of which 116.7 m 2 is occupied by the attic. On the ground floor there is a living room, study, kitchen and pantry. The second floor is reserved for three bedrooms, separated by a hall. The garage is designed for two cars, its area is 35 m 2, above it there is attic... According to the project, it is planned to use wall cinder blocks with a thickness of 500 mm.
Two-storey house
Before starting the construction of a two-storey cinder block house, it is proposed to consider projects from the Dream House company.
1. "Captain". The dimensions of the cottage are 14.3 x 10.7 m, the total area is 154.8 m 2. 94.5 m 2 are allocated for the first floor: there is a terrace, a kitchen, a living room, a boiler room and an entrance hall. The second floor occupies 60.3 m 2 and contains two bedrooms and a dressing room. The slope of an asymmetrical gable roof on one side rests on the columns, thus forming a covered parking lot. The project includes YTONG blocks with a thickness of 500 mm.
2. Bielefeld. Vacation home with a glassed-in balcony-dining room and a large terrace. The dimensions of the building are 10.2 x 9.8 m. The total area is 157 m 2, including: the first floor - 87.3 m 2, the attic - 69.8 m 2. On the first floor there are two living rooms, two terraces and a kitchen, on the second there is a dining room and two bedrooms. The house is intended for seasonal use, therefore, blocks with a thickness of 300 mm are used for its construction.
Cinder blocks are a popular wall material. It is often used in the construction industry for the construction of residential, office, utility rooms. Despite some shortcomings, it is considered one of the best options for building a house.
Slag blocks are produced by volumetric vibrocompression from concrete and various fillers: blast-furnace slag, ash, gravel, perlite, expanded clay. The properties of the last component depend on specifications material, in particular, its density (500 to 2000 kg / m³), thermal conductivity (0.3 to 0.65 W / m · ° C), frost resistance (15-35 freeze-thaw cycles).
This material is chosen for building a house due to its affordable price, lightness, bulk, fast laying. It can even be built without involving professionals. Walls made of this material do not burn well and retain heat well due to the special design of the blocks (there are cavities inside and the structure of the block is porous). But at the same time, do not forget about some disadvantages:
Everyone will determine for themselves a cinder block, but its shortcomings can be easily eliminated by a competent approach to building a house.
Superintendent's advice: for decorating the walls of a cinder block home, it is better to use not a traditional cement mortar, but a special one with increased strength. It has a more reliable grip on the surface, and conduct internal work(painting, wallpapering) will be much easier.
A cinder block house can be built with your own hands. If you correctly approach the issue of wall insulation and waterproofing, then the owner will practically not feel the possible disadvantages. It is advisable to build a strip, columnar foundation on stony-sandy soil and be sure to apply a layer of water-repellent material on it. The masonry of the walls is carried out according to the same principle as the brick: first, we form the corners, mark the window and door openings and lead the rows under the level. A cinder block house cannot be built without reinforcement. Each 3-4 row must be reinforced with an iron mesh, using iron rods. The minimum wall thickness of cinder block is 0.9 m.
The air gap between the wall and exterior cladding filled with insulation with a thickness of at least 100 mm (polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam). The inner surface can be plastered with a water-repellent solution with your own hands, sometimes an additional layer of insulation is placed and only then the lining is fixed, painted, wallpaper is glued.
Superintendent's advice: when building a house from a cinder block, using reinforced concrete floors is risky (unless you install an iron belt over the wall blocks), it is better to opt for wooden or slabs.
Many people opt for this material precisely because of its basic advantages: affordable price, lightness, speed of laying. The cost is lower than that of a brick. A full-bodied cinder block with dimensions of 400 * 200 * 200 can be bought for 35-60 rubles. per piece, hollow - about 40 p. Bulkheads will cost even less. While one brick unit costs about 12 p.
To build a house, for example, 10 × 10 m with 3 rooms and an attic, approximately 2200 blocks are needed. If we take the average price per piece - 50 rubles, we will spend 110 thousand rubles. for the purchase of wall material. But when laying a brick wall with a thickness of 2 stones per 1 m², 204 pieces will be needed. bricks. We will multiply the area by this amount and get a total figure of 20,400 bricks. Now we take the average price per piece - 12 rubles. and we do the same arithmetic operation. It turns out that we will need to spend 244,800 rubles for a house with an area of 100 m², and this is without taking into account the costs of the solution, which is more than when using the first material.
DIY cinder block house - reliable and profitable solution... Individual cons of the material are easy to eliminate competent installation heat and waterproofing materials. They will provide good performance properties dwellings, and the blocks guarantee its strength.
When you start building, you want everything to be done as quickly as possible, cheaper and more reliable. All these factors can be satisfied by a house built from a cinder block with your own hands. You can make this building material yourself. We will consider both the technology of its production and the construction process from marking to installation of the roof.
At some point in time, the cinder block became very popular. This is explained by the fact that the waste material that remained after the smelting of the metal had to be used somewhere. They decided to use it as a filler for building components. This is how this artificial stone appeared. But then he was distinguished by not the best qualities, because from an environmental point of view, he had certain shortcomings. It had to be kept on the street for about a year and only after that it had to be put into operation. Today the situation is a little different and it seems that it is the most popular material for the construction of low-rise buildings. Its strengths are:
Disadvantages:
If you decide to purchase cinder blocks, then there are several nuances that you should pay attention to. It is good if it is possible to take measurements with a dosimeter. Thanks to this, you can determine how environmentally friendly the material is. Look at the conditions in which it was stored. It is important that this is not an open space where it has been exposed to rainfall. There should be no chips or cracks on it. Use a tape measure to check its dimensions. The parallel sides must match.
Manufacturing technology is quite simple. For successful advancement in this direction, it will be necessary to acquire some equipment, as well as accurately observe the proportions. So, the first step is to design a vibratory rammer. For this you will need:
The motor can be used from an old washing machine or from a grinder. No more power required. The main thing is to place the weight correctly, which will shift the center of gravity.
The sequence of work will be as follows:
Today, there are many options for ready-made machines on sale. If you do not want to waste time and energy, then you can simply buy or rent it.
The key to strong and resistant to various influences of the blocks is a properly prepared solution. If using a rammer, it must be sufficiently dry. If the proportions of water are incorrectly calculated, then after lifting the container, it will simply disintegrate. As a filler, you can use ash from burnt coal, broken bricks, fine gravel, slag, etc. To give additional resistance to moisture, plasticizers are used. The first version of the mixture will be like this:
Second cooking method:
The best consistency can be roughly determined as follows: you need to take the ready-made solution and squeeze it in your hand. It must keep its shape. If you then throw it to the ground, it should spread out. After squeezing it again, it should hold its shape again.
The best place to work is open air. Under these conditions, the mortar will dry and set faster, which will increase productivity. It is desirable that the place is level. This can be a concrete walkway or a lining made of sheet metal, boards knocked into shields, etc. The block preparation process will be as follows:
Often the partitions are laid out from blocks that are smaller in size. For their manufacture, it will be necessary to make a form according to a similar principle, as described above, but its dimensions will be 120 × 400 × 200 mm. It is better to use rectangular inserts as voids formers. They must be of such a size that the walls are at least 3 cm.
Projects need to be approached rationally. It makes no sense to be overly economical, since this will affect the quality of the future structure. There is also no reason for excessive wastefulness. This is especially true for the number of blocks. Calculations should start with deciding on the thickness of the wall. This size is due to several factors, such as climatic conditions and soil conditions. If in winter the temperature drops too low, then it may be necessary to make a wall of 40‒60 cm. In other areas, 20 cm will be enough, which will also be insulated with polystyrene or polystyrene foam. Masonry can be carried out in several ways:
Suppose that a project of a future house with dimensions of 10 × 12 m was chosen, one-story with a wall height of 3 m. The first step is to calculate the total area of the walls. To do this, multiply the length by the width. 3 × 10 = 30 m 2, 12 × 3 = 36 m 2, now we double and add these results, since there are two identical planes. 30 × 2 + 36 × 2 = 132 m 2. So the final result is 132 m 2. Determine the area of one block - 0.2 × 0.4 = 0.08 m 2. We divide the total area of the walls by the area of the block - 132: 0.08 = 1650. But this figure is fair if the wall is planned in one stone. If it is two, then the final result will be 3300 blocks.
These calculations deliberately do not take into account the openings that will be made for windows and doors. This is done so that there is a small margin. While working with the material, there may be rejection, and our surplus compensates for it.
The calculation of the amount of stone for the partitions is done in the same way. In fact, the final figure will be the sum of the blocks for the main walls and the interior.
As mentioned above, this type of design requires high. In addition, it must be very strong so that in no case cracks begin to form, which will necessarily pass through the entire wall. The work will be carried out in the following order:
If you decide not to fill in such a high foundation, as described earlier, then you need to take care of the construction of the basement. This is an extension of the foundation that protrudes above the surface of the earth. It is important to remember that before starting to lay it, it is necessary to provide waterproofing. For this, roofing material or bikrost is laid on the foundation. The height of such a structure should be 70 cm or more. Further, a layer of waterproofing is again laid on it, and only after that the construction of walls begins.
When erecting walls, the main task is to make them even, without protrusions. The first step towards this result is to determine the highest foundation angle. The point is that it is difficult to deduce the ideal value during filling. This measurement is made using a water level. In advance, you need to make sure that its length is enough for the length of the foundation.
During the laying of the last few rows, you must remember to brick up the studs. It will be good if you manage to bend them and tie them with a seam of one of the rows. They should protrude above the surface at a distance exceeding the height of the Mauerlat bar by 4 cm. The step can be observed in 1 m or less. Rolled wire can be used instead of pins. Another option would be to fill the armored belt with the installation of studs into it.
The installation of the rafter system and the laying of the flooring should be started as soon as possible after the end of the pasture of the walls. Before choosing the desired shape of the future roof, it is necessary to analyze what is the maximum amount of precipitation that can fall, what gusts of wind there are. You also need to consider what buildings or trees are nearby. Usually all data can be obtained from the relevant services. This information will affect which angle needs to be observed.
If the area is famous for the presence of strong gusts of wind, then the slope of the roof must be maintained in the region of 15‒20 °. Even with sufficiently strong snow drifts, the layer will not remain, it will simply swell. In the case when the territory is quiet, but there is a lot of precipitation, then the optimal solution would be a range of 35‒40 °. With such a slope, snow cannot be trapped in large layers.
On private houses, a gable roof or all kinds of multi-slope roofs look great. We will consider an example of the construction of the first option. If the principle is well understood, then you can move on to more complex structures.
It is best to close the gables as quickly as possible. This must be done so that the wind does not blow the precipitation inside. So moisture will not accumulate and destroy the building material.
It is advisable not to leave the walls bare for a long period. Their finishing can be carried out in parallel with roofing work. For the outside, insulation with foam is an ideal solution. It is fastened with special dowels, umbrellas. Better to start from the bottom. The first step is to mount the metal starter bar. A profile for drywall can act in its role. It needs to be set by level, which will simplify the task in the future. A hole is drilled in the wall through a sheet of insulation using a perforator. Glue is applied to the reverse side of the insulation; ordinary polyurethane foam with low expansion can act in its role. Each element should fit snugly against the previous one. During installation, it is advisable to check the evenness of the surface using a level. After that, the entire surface is covered with an adhesive intended for this purpose. Together with its application, a reinforcing mesh is laid, which will prevent the appearance of dents from impacts. The final layer will be decorative trim. It can be a bark beetle or embossed plaster.
The house can be sheathed with siding. In this case, you can also use mineral wool for insulation. A product with a high density is suitable, for example, foam. First, the lathing is mounted under the cladding. After that, insulation is inserted into the space between the beams. You can fix it to the wall in the same way as styrofoam.
As noted above, it will be almost impossible to use plaster for interior decoration. But this is not a problem, since you can sheathe the rooms with drywall. This will compensate for any irregularities as well as apply the desired finish. It is important to take care of the vapor barrier so that moisture does not seep into the cinder block.
It will take a sufficient amount of time to complete all these works. But with good organization and planning, you can meet the deadlines. It is always interesting to look at finished projects. Share your observations and suggestions in the comments to this article.
In this video you will see how you can make a cinder block at home:
Watch the process of laying the cinder block:
Invented in the early 20th century cinder blocks firmly entered modern construction as the most versatile, budgetary and unpretentious wall material... Cinder block is used for construction load-bearing walls houses with a height of no more than 3 floors, installation of partitions, laying a strip or columnar foundation under garages, kiosks, change houses, for the construction of underground and ground office premises, arrangement of attics in multi-storey buildings.
Before starting to draw up a project of a house from a cinder block, it is necessary to take into account the properties, advantages and disadvantages of this material:
1. Slag concrete blocks are made by vibrating compaction of a mixture of M500 cement with water and filler in special forms. The most common list of fillers is granular slag and granite / gravel screenings. This technology provides the maximum reduction in cost and binder consumption without significant loss of strength. Cinder block is the cheapest type of wall stone.
2. The compressive strength of the cinder block is consistent with brick - M50 - M100, solid blocks - up to M150. The material is absolutely not subject to shrinkage and gains strength over time. But the fragility and weak tensile strength does not allow the use of cinder blocks in the construction of walls with significant lateral loads.
3. During solidification, the material acquires a noticeable porosity - this facilitates installation work, reduces the requirements for the foundation, reduces thermal conductivity, and increases sound insulation properties.
4. For laying the cinder block it is absolutely not necessary to involve professional builders. The volume, duration, complexity of laying and measuring operations are 3-4 times lower than when erecting a brick wall.
5. The cinder block does not enter into chemical reactions with the atmosphere, does not burn, rodents and insects do not settle in it. The guaranteed service life of the cinder block at the right choice material - 15 years for unplastered walls, 50 - with double-sided protection, 100 or more, if the plaster is periodically restored.
6. The main disadvantage is high hygroscopicity and low frost resistance class (F15 - F50). Wherever it is not possible to protect the cinder block walls of a house from prolonged contact with water, they quickly lose all insulating qualities and crack after freezing. Therefore, it is practically necessary to double-sided plastering and external insulation of the cinder block is desirable. It is unacceptable to use this material in walls subject to periodic flooding.
7. The cinder block construction plan must be strictly tied to the weather seasons, optimal time for masonry - late spring - early autumn. When leaving for the night or weekend, the laid blocks protect from possible rain. Before winter, it is necessary to have time to mount the roof on cinder block houses.
8. Cinder block, especially hollow, greatly reduces the strength under the influence of slitting percussion instruments, and when you try to hammer a through round hole, an entire segment may collapse. You need to think over the bookmark scheme in advance engineering systems and make careful cuts with a grinder.
9. The presence of metallurgical waste in the composition makes the material environmentally friendly. The harmful substances emitted in small quantities disappear within a year after production, therefore it is recommended not to settle in and not to plaster the walls until the end of the first winter after the construction of the box.
1. The project of house 1 is a real one-story mansion 15x10 with a total area of 220 m2 with a high spacious attic. A significant part of the first floor is occupied by a garage and service rooms, on the opposite side there is an exit to a large terrace. In the living room and kitchen, located next to each other, with an area of 23 m2, two dozen guests can be received at once. For convenience, there is a bathroom.
Going to the second floor, we find ourselves in a spacious hall with a large observation window covering the entire wall. The floor project provides for the presence of two children of 12 m2 and a bedroom of 22 m2. There are also 2 bathrooms and a study. The entrance to each room is in the central hall. 1 nursery and an office have adjoining balconies.
2. House project 2 - the best price option for a 10x10 house with an attic just above the residential part of the 1st floor, with a total area of 120 m2. The project provides a garage of 20 m2, a small hall, 1 bathroom for the whole house, a living room of 22 m2 with a corner staircase, stove and access to the terrace. The kitchen is quite small, only 12 m2. On the second floor there is a bathroom and 2 rather small bedrooms - 17 and 9 m2. This area is clearly not enough for big family.
3. House project 3 is the best for a large family, but does not have a garage. This is a real two-storey 10x10 house of 180 m2, with many rooms in which family members can find privacy if necessary. On the ground floor there is a bathroom, a boiler room, a small kitchen, a separate free-use room, a spacious entrance hall of 11 m2, and a living room of 18 m2. The project of the 2nd floor provides 3 bedrooms 12, 12 and 19 m2, and 2 spacious bathrooms. One of the bathrooms can only be accessed through the large bedroom.
The cost of building a house from a cinder block will include:
1. Designing a detailed scheme of a house, taking into account engineering systems. The order of the project will cost no less than 25,000 rubles.
2. Excavation of soil to a depth of 0.5-1 m under the house - about 400 rubles per m3.
3. Reinforcement and pouring of a strip monolithic foundation, 0.5 m wide for a wall of 40 cm - about 8000 rubles per 1 m3 only for materials and their delivery.
4. Backfilling of the subfloor with crushed stone and sand - about 600 per 1 m3, including delivery. At this stage, you can include the basement in the project.
5. Order complete furnishing strip foundation turnkey will cost approximately 17,000 rubles / m3 of concrete work.
6. Purchase of a cinder block. The typical size is 190x190x390 mm. Considering the mortar thickness of 10 mm, it is very simple to calculate the material consumption per square meter - 12.5 blocks for a 19 cm thick wall, and 25 blocks for a 39 cm thick wall. The price is approximately 30-35 rubles apiece. The project needs to include a fight and a marriage in the amount of 5-10%.
7. Purchase of cement and sand. The technological rate of consumption of the solution is 1 cubic meter per 4.5 m3 of the wall. To make it, you will need 6 bags of M400 cement and 1.1 cubic meters of sand (volume ratio 1 to 4) with a total price of 1,800 rubles.
8. The price of floors and roofs.
9. The most significant point of the project is the cost of heating, sewerage, water, electricity and gas supply systems.
10. Windows, doors, plaster, decoration, insulation.
Additionally, the project should take into account the following points:
The approximate price of a turnkey house is 20,000 - 24,000 rubles per 1 square meter, excluding the area of the attic. Although this option is often more expensive phased construction with the involvement of various performers, it practically does not require investment own forces and nerves. In addition, there are nice bonuses like designing unique houses for free.
