House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» Aged Doors: The fastest way to get an antique look. How to age a tree perfectly with your own hands - brushing How to make a tree aged

Aged Doors: The fastest way to get an antique look. How to age a tree perfectly with your own hands - brushing How to make a tree aged

One of the most interesting ways to add flavor to wooden objects is to age them. Read this article on how to age wooden crafts do it yourself.

Wood is one of the most easily processed materials. This is what makes it possible for manufacturers of wood products to pamper their customers. different options decoration and finishing. One of the most interesting ways to add flavor to wooden objects is to age them. For such a procedure, it is not so much time that is needed as efforts so that the cherished years or even decades are reflected on the tree in a matter of days.

Brushing

One of the ways that help add age to the young tree is by brushing. This method is actively used in all workshops where artificial aging is performed.

It got its name from english word brush, which translates to "brush". After all, the main tool that helps to age wood using this method is a metal brush. With the help of such a simple tool, soft fibers are gradually removed from the wooden blank, as a result of which pronounced annual rings begin to appear on the surface. Such a pattern can be observed only on old, worn boards, but here it appears in a few hours. However, simply rubbed wood does not look very aesthetically pleasing, therefore, after the initial rough processing, the workpiece is brought to its final appearance. First, using a special tool, they get rid of burrs on the surface, then the products are sanded,. There is the option of painting different parts in different shades to create a patina effect. The floor, aged with the help of brushing, looks very colorful.

Brushing is usually used for aging rough surfaces: floors, walls, doors. But remember that not every type of wood can be brushed. Pines and larch trees age well with this method. And, for example, such species as beech, birch, maple have an indistinct texture and are not suitable for brushing. Of course, this method cannot be applied to MDF products either.

Faded paint - patina

If you still need to age doors made of solid beech, maple or pieces of furniture, you will have to act thinner and use the patina method.

First, paint is selected that matches the basic tone of the piece of furniture. With this composition, the wooden surface is covered in one layer, after which the wood is allowed to dry. Next, on top of the first layer of paint, a second thin layer is applied. For this, a light tone, up to milky white, can be used. It is important that the second paint is not too light or too bright. The fact is that an overly bright coating will look too new, which will reduce the effect of antiquity.

After applying the second layer, it is also allowed to dry.

When the staining is done, it's time to create the desired antiquity effect. For this, a fine skin is taken, with the help of which scuffs are made on the surface of the tree. It is important to achieve a result when the lower base begins to peep through the top layer, as if the furniture has been painted more than once.

The degree of "shabby" wood can be adjusted independently, bringing the piece of furniture to the desired age.

Wood scuffs

Another way to create fake scuffs is by waxing the wood surface. Individual parts of the product are rubbed with paraffin; before that, the tree should already be painted in an antique style. As soon as the work is done, the product is covered with a new layer of paint, lighter than the base. Then, using a spatula, a layer of paraffin is removed, and the wood is carefully sanded. It remains to tint the wood surface with a stain, and then wax it. With the help of this technique, a plausible effect is created, it has been used for more than a dozen years.

Staining is another common and very effective method aging tree. As a rule, it is also used to treat furniture or doors.

  • Start by completely covering the product with a base coat of water-based stain.
  • Immediately after this is over, a soft, clean sponge is taken, with which you need to rinse off the freshly applied stain, but only from certain places. First of all, the middle parts of the boards should be processed, while edges, cracks, corners should be left intact. Depressions and hard-to-reach places can be painted with a brush.
  • When the tree has dried, a finishing layer of stain is applied to it, but on the basis of white spirit or other composition, after which the workpiece is allowed to dry again.
  • The next stage of aging is filling the wood pores with shellac primer using a brush or the same sponge. This is done to secure the color of the product.
  • At the end of the treatment, antique wax is rubbed into the wood fibers using a special metal brush.
  • As a result, the surface receives the required texture, and the aging effect will last for a long time.

If you would like to have an aged chair or doors with patina, but you yourself do not want to do it, you can always buy them in a store where the professionals did it for you.

Learn how to age a tree with your own hands in a loft style at home with your own hands and you can use it anywhere in production: for a wooden kitchen, Provence furniture, tables, etc. The result is a wonderful color that will decorate the decor of any home! Application in design modern wood is, perhaps, a win-win option.

This is an incredibly attractive, breathable, pleasant to the touch natural material that has a beneficial effect on the formation of a microclimate in a home, has bactericidal properties, and is useful for human energy. Wooden ceiling beams and individual decor elements will look great in any room.

This wonderful material lends itself perfectly to the most different types processing: It can be left in its natural form, dyed, aged, and much more.

There is no specific, unambiguous answer to this question.

This procedure is carried out for different purposes, most often it is:

How to make a tree old: brushing

There are many different ways for processing wood, allowing you to get the desired result. Brushing, or texturing, is one of the most widely used.


The word brush is of English origin and denotes a brush. From him came the name of the technique, which consists in using the mentioned object to remove the soft pliable fibers of the material. Quite similar processes occur as a result of natural aging, but in this case they take a fairly large amount of time. This method is considered the closest to natural changes occurring with the material.

It gives the wood a distinct woody texture.

What tree can be aged: breeds

Give surface wood material an aged look with the help of brushing is quite possible on your own, at home. The problem is that not every type of wood is suitable for such processing.

Maple, cherry, beech, pear, certain varieties of exotic plants do not lend themselves to this aging method.

It is not suitable for products and surfaces made of MDF. What to do if not available suitable material? We'll have to use a different method, a chemical one. Wood conifers it is best processed mechanically.

Brushing is a rather laborious procedure. The main tool for its implementation is an elastic and durable metal brush. You won't be able to quickly change the appearance of the tree with its help, so you can speed up the process.

This will require either a drill with a special hard wire brush.

It should be noted that the use of electromechanical tools for woodworking can be very unsafe. The fact is that during the event, rather strong vibrations occur, which can cause the separation and sharp flying off not only of wooden chips, but also of metal elements.

Therefore, it is important not only to know how it will be possible to age the tree, but also to be able to do it safely, without risking your own health. All activities are carried out in a special protective suit, the eyes must be covered with camouflage goggles or a face shield. Airways cover with a special respirator.

Aging chemical treatment


Is it possible to age wood by hand without the use of special devices and tools?
You will need coarse sandpaper, with which the surface is sanded. The prepared material is applied ammonia(ammonia solution), from which the tree becomes noticeably darker.

Thanks to this processing, the wood texture becomes more distinct, while the noble darkening gives the material a touch of exquisite antiquity.

Such processing can have a superficial, rather light character.... In this case, a non-coarse polymer brush is used. If the tree is deeply processed, even the annual rings of the wood become noticeable.


Chemical method

The main thing is not to overdo it when performing this operation. Otherwise, the result of the expended efforts will not be an elegant textured surface, but loose, indefinite wood.

Regardless of the selected processing method, after a rough initial cleaning of the wooden blank, it is necessary to return to its original aesthetics. Irregularities and burrs are carefully removed from the surface of the object, then it is with a special abrasive brush. Then the material is additionally lightened and given a gloss, for which thin sandpaper is used.

Aged wood effect: patina

Mechanical processing alone is not enough to obtain the desired effect of aged wood. What to do with the material next? You can cover the product with one of the types of varnish. The material looks very interesting after special processing - patination. It allows you to make the surface of the material even more embossed. Patina is a peculiar, unique gloss acquired by the material over time.


Putting on the patina: the process

Recreation of it with your own hands requires a lot of effort, and is carried out in several separate stages. What is the patination process?

This is the application of special stains and compounds on the surface to be treated. In each case, they are selected individually, in accordance with the desired shade and color of the product.

The compositions should be applied in such a way that they end up in the pores of the wood, which open during mechanical processing.

The essence of this method is to make the deep pores of the material appear contrasting and dark against the general background, lighter. To carry out this procedure on your own, you need to choose a paint that matches the color. The prepared surface is completely painted over with it, and, without waiting for complete drying, part of the top layer is removed with a cloth or sponge. Such wood looks noble and looks like an old one.

But patina is not the only way to get a similar or similar result. It is absolutely wonderful to age products with the help of special enamels. This method will allow you to get a real work of art, which outwardly differs little from genuine antiques.

A layer of enamel of a certain color is applied to the surface. When it's dry, it's time for the next stain. For secondary application, you will need a composition of a different shade, and a more liquid consistency.

When the treated rock is completely dry, its surface is easily processed with sandpaper. In some places, the initial layer shows through, forming elegant abrasions.

Toning and varnishing

The patina process must be completed with tinting. For its implementation, you will need special formulations containing resins and natural ones. As finishing use a coating of treated wood with a double or triple layer of varnish. After drying, the surface is treated with a soft cloth to give a special shine.


Such varnishing fixes all previous manipulations, gives the product a finished, complete look.

And although the process is quite complicated and time-consuming, everyone can master the art of working with wood.

The main thing here is to carefully study the technology, understand the order of the stages, and strictly follow the instructions.

Secrets of good brushing: how to age wood

How to correctly conduct the brushing process so that the result is pleasing to the eye? You need to know some of the nuances of the process.


Aged wood: use in the interior


Wood treated in a special way cannot be found in every home.
The fact is that it is not enough to simply age the wood.

The ability to correctly use it for interior decoration is of great importance. But the use of the described brushing method allows you to make completely unique products, in fact, exclusive.

These can be individual pieces of furniture, or whole sets and headsets.

Chests of drawers made of such material look especially interesting, candlesticks, bookshelves, antique sideboards, frames for mirrors and paintings, country furniture and kitchen sets. This way of processing wood is perfect for the manufacture of individual doors and partitions.

The wood brushing method is excellent for adding a special effect to the flooring and parquet board... Often, such material goes to the author's decoration of the walls of saunas or home baths, billiard rooms, retro cafes, bars and non-standard premises.


Set of chairs and tables

Various methods of wood aging technology are not a secret today. Tossing- not the only method, there are others. Between themselves, they differ in the amount of time required for the implementation of the process, as well as in the complexity of the technology. But no matter what method is used to achieve the desired effect, in any case, aged wood is capable of creating a completely unique atmosphere of warmth and comfort in any room, ennobling the interior with the sophistication of antiquity.

Is a long and painstaking process, consisting of mechanical processing of wood and work with paints and varnishes... This finishing method is associated with leon42, a participant in the forum "House and Dacha", with naturalness, antiquity, folk culture.

According to leon42, buying furniture and brushing it off with a metal brush is not yet aging it, but simply scratching it, or, at best, making a textured surface. Furniture bought in a store - made of lamellas and "skinny" - is not suitable for texturing, it looks rather sad and flawed.

leon42 believes that brushing furniture should be rough and massive, capable of conveying the natural beauty of wood.

It is the superficial approach to the aging of wood, according to the forum member, that forms in many people the opinion of products processed using this technology as “furniture of fire victims”. Meanwhile, the combination of aged wood with metal, stone or ceramics in the interior is always a fashionable and stylish technique that allows all the inhabitants of the house to touch eternity and feel like they are in the Middle Ages.

Under natural conditions, wind and moisture, the sun and temperature drops "work" on the aging of the tree. How to do something that has been happening for many tens of years in a few days?

Material preparation

For brushing, it is best to use soft to medium hard wood with a pronounced texture, such as spruce, pine or larch. In these wood species, soft fibers are formed, as a rule, in the spring-summer period, when there is an intensive growth of annual rings, and they are "looser".

Wood with a homogeneous and unexpressed texture, such as beech and maple, is not suitable for aging.

Before working with wood, you should prepare its surface. Eliminate all defects and dirt, whether it be traces of sweat, grease or other stains that may appear during the application of the toner. Handle any products (small architectural forms, furniture, etc.), having previously disassembled: you will spend less time and will be able to reach everywhere with a brush.

Brushing

Brushing (English brush - "brush"), or texturing wood - this is giving it a relief characteristic of old wood. At the initial stage, soft fibers are removed from the solid wood. There are several processing options: slight aging - a barely noticeable roughness is created on the surface, or deep and rough, when the depth of irregularities reaches 2-3 mm (for decorative elements, sometimes for rough furniture).

You can pre-process any detail, say, a ceiling beam, with an ax: make notches, trim the edges without fear of spoiling - no one but you knows what the result should be. At the same time, you will receive a product with a deep micro-relief of the surface and irregularities on it up to 20 mm deep.

Do not forget about the "traces" of the activity of bugs and worms. Simulate them before finishing with a drill or drill. You can also apply simple elements carvings: pigtails, dragons, etc. - you get "Scandinavian style".

Grinding: tools and brushes

At large enterprises, machines and automatic lines are used, where everything is provided - from the feed rate of the workpiece to a powerful dust removal system. For an ordinary summer resident, such equipment is expensive and, in general, an unnecessary pleasure. If you will be doing this type of work frequently, it is better to purchase a brushing machine. The most common and widely available is Makita. The most economical and simple option is a "grinder" or a drill, preferably with the ability to adjust the speed.

The entire brushing process can be divided into three stages:

  1. Rough sampling of soft fibers
  2. Grinding
  3. Polishing

Accordingly, each of them needs its own brush. At the first stage ( brushed) use metal (brushed). If you are making outdoor structures - a gazebo, shed, fence, etc., then most likely this will be your only brush.

When processing with a metal brush, scratches may remain on the annual rings themselves, which are difficult to get rid of during further processing.

When working with brushes, you need to adhere to the following rules:

  • brush along the grain, otherwise damage the annual rings and spoil the wood pattern;
  • the speed of movement of the brush and the pressure should be approximately the same, otherwise pits will turn out;
  • the light source should be placed on the side at an acute angle, directing the light beam across the fibers - this way you can better see the surface to be treated;
  • do not press hard on the surface, do not overload the motor, otherwise it may cause premature damage to the equipment;
  • the speed of revolutions should not be higher than 3000, preferably 2000–2500: the brush can quickly fly apart;
  • be sure to work with glasses, do not neglect protective gloves: pieces of wire from the brush can fly off several meters, injuring others;
  • take care of the protection of the respiratory system and dust removal: during this work, even the eyelashes are covered with powdery ink, let alone the lungs;
  • a new brush needs to be "rolled in", otherwise it will strongly "wrinkle" the workpiece, after a while it will begin to process the surface cleaner;
  • work only in one direction (rotation), reverse should not be turned on - this will "kill" the metal brush;
  • the moisture content of the treated wood should not exceed 15%, otherwise, instead of a textured surface, you will get a shaggy-hairy one.

When processing stable and hard wood (larch, oak), be sure to use dust extraction systems: the dust of these types of wood is considered carcinogenic and can cause lung cancer.

If you want to get rid of the lint and get a better finish, you will need one more brush - plastic (nylon), more correctly - a grinding disc made of polymer-abrasive material. The most common grain size is 120.

The abrasive brush is universal, characterized by a more delicate surface treatment. If you use this brush, you can do without a metal brush, especially if the item being processed needs delicate processing or if you want to avoid specific scratches left by brushes.

The principle of work with an abrasive brush is the same as with a metal one. It is better to reduce the revolutions to 1500 in order to prolong the life of the brush. Dust when working with a plastic brush is finer and more sticky, so do not forget about a respirator.

Surface treatment specifics:

  • do not grind the edges-edges and corners of the workpieces, especially if you do not plan to then varnish them: they will cling and break off;
  • Do not make deep embossing on seats, tabletops and other horizontal surfaces - they will make it difficult to clean the surface: stains of spilled drinks, crumbs, etc. will be clogged between the fibers;
  • In order to prevent clogging of dust and rags from getting caught during cleaning, such surfaces must be sanded with an abrasive brush and fine-grained sandpaper.

The final stage of brushing - polishing or fine grinding: done with sesal or other synthetic brushes. You can use fine-grained sandpaper, abrasive sponges, metal wool, removing dust from the finished surface with a wide brush and a vacuum cleaner.

Finishing operations

At the final stage, tinting is done (changing the color of the wood by several tones), patination (emphasizing the texture of the wood with special compounds that penetrate the pores opened during brushing), craquelure (the effect of cracking and drying out), varnishing.

After brushing, the board will look like new, but with textured surface... To give her old look, it is covered with various compounds, dark colors look more natural.

It is the correct play with the color of brushed wood that gives it an aged look. Areas with softwood (pores or depressions) are unevenly colored in more dark color, from solid (ridges) - to a lighter one. Recently, options with light depressions and darker ridges have been popular.

The easiest way is to apply a generous amount of dark stain and immediately wipe the area with a rag or wide rubber spatula. In theory, the stain should absorb quickly into a soft surface and more slowly on ridges. However, in practice, this often does not work out, therefore leon42 settled on a more complex method: after complete drying, the combs are sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. This method requires further processing with varnish or colorless impregnations, so the openable top layer remains without a protective coating.

Another option is to use paint in two contrasting colors: the surface is completely painted over with the first color, then the second is applied. While the latter is drying, run a wide rubber trowel to remove excess paint and expose the ridges of the first coat.

Correct texturing is a simple but messy, time consuming and unhealthy process.

As a result of hard and hard work, you will receive decorative elements that bear the beauty of antiquity and at the same time have high durability. Every detail made with love with my own hands will be unique.

Based on materials from a participant in the forum "House and Dacha"

Editor: Olga Travina

Brushing - unique technology, which allows you to age and structure the wood. This solution provides an opportunity to give new wood products an aged noble look. More and more people are choosing to create unique interior in a house or apartment using wooden finishing materials... As a rule, wood, which has a more aged look, looks very noble and luxurious. But not many people know that even new wood products can be given that luxury and nobility that wood acquires after many years of exploitation. In this article, we will take a step-by-step look at a master class on brushing.

Increasingly, when decorating the interior of a house, they use wooden products, beams, ceilings, doors with appearance aged wood.


Tools for stitching wooden products:

  • Grinder or electric drill with attachments;
  • Iron and abrasive brushes;
  • Bulgarian;
  • Wide brush for varnish and oil.

Stage 1. Rough wood finishing

We take a piece of wood, in our case a board made of soft wood. Next, using a grinder and a special disk on wood, we make shallow notches, as shown in the photo below.

As a rule, this wood processing with a grinder will already be enough for its further use on ceilings or in places where a person cannot touch it with his hand, since in this case, during the initial processing, burrs remain on it.

Stage 2. Fine finishing

In the event that you plan to use wood after the stitching process for window sills, doors, furniture and other interior items, then additional surface treatment of the wood will be required. First of all, you need to slightly smooth and level the surface of the wooden product. For this We will use a metal brush. It is worth noting that it is necessary to work with such a brush on the surface without much effort, so as not to spoil the already finished wood structure.

First of all, it is necessary to install an iron nozzle with a large fraction on an electric drill. As shown in the photo below, we carefully go through the entire processed rough surface of the wooden blank without undue effort.

It is worth noting that iron brushes are used to smooth the surface of a wooden product, and burrs are removed with the help of abrasive nozzles. Thanks to this, the aging of wood looks not only believable, but also safe for humans, since the surface of the wood product will be perfectly smooth without burrs.

Stage 3. Surface treatment with abrasive brushes

After the entire surface has passed with an iron nozzle, we proceed to finishing with abrasive nozzles. When working with abrasive attachments, apply firm pressure to thoroughly remove any burrs on the wood.

Stage 4. Finishing

After preparing the wood for finishing, you can use glazing or treat the surface of a wooden product with linseed oil, oil, stain, varnish.

In the photo below, the wooden facade of the house has been glazed.

Coating with oil gives the effect of "aged" wood. To do this, we need a regular brush and oil for wood in the interior. It is best to choose oil dark shades, in this case, wooden products will look more noble. We carefully cover the entire surface of the product with oil.

Stage 5. Giving the effect of "aged" wood

In order for the dark recesses to remain dark and the light ones to be light, we will need to process the surface of the product immediately after the oil impregnation. For this We take an ordinary cotton rag. By carefully wiping the entire surface of the product with a rag, we create the visual effect of "aged" wood, as shown in the photo below.


How to make aged wood at home and give it a vintage look with your own hands? This article is devoted to just such tricks! Artificially aged things look very stylish and harmonious!

The 7 paint aging methods we will look at here are interesting for their simplicity and great end result. They also do not require the purchase of any expensive special materials or tools.

We will analyze in detail the following 7 painting methods:

It is a versatile technique that helps to give wood or wooden furniture old look. It can be used on untreated wood as well as on already painted wood and furniture. Suitable for painting in one or more layers.

For example, this is the result obtained when painting with this method in white (for a detailed guide, read the article "")

Let's take a closer look at how to paint a tree using this method, making three layers (brown, white and yellow).

Necessary materials:

  • paint (brown, white and yellow)
  • brush, candle, rag.

Step-by-step instruction:

Step 1: First coat of paint

  1. Decide on the color of the paint that you will take as a basis. This will be the first, bottom layer of paint that we will apply directly to the wood. In this case, we use a dark brown color.
  2. Paint the wood with slightly random strokes, without painting the surface completely and evenly.
  3. Leave to dry completely.

Step 2: using a candle

Take a candle and rub it on the surface of the tree in several randomly selected places(at the same time, press on the candle quite hard so that a clear trace of wax or paraffin remains on the tree).

  • Step 3: second coat of paint Pick a color for the next coat and paint over (we'll use white here). At this stage, paint can be applied evenly over the entire surface, and not with strokes, as with the first coat. Leave to dry completely.
  • Step 4: Then take a rag and wipe the surface with some pressure. In places where wax has been applied, the paint will lag behind the surface. If two layers are enough for you, then you can stop at this, and if not, follow on.
  • Step 5: third coat of paint Repeat steps 2 and 3, but the last one using a different paint color (here it will be yellow). After the paint is dry, a protective varnish can be applied. The latter is not necessary due to the fact that we deliberately gave an old look, so if the paint starts to lag a little over time, it will not be noticeable.

2. Aging using wet paper

This method of giving wood the texture of aging is similar to the previous one with candles, only now instead of wax there will be wet paper(if candles were suddenly not found at home, then everyone certainly has paper).

Necessary materials:

  • dye,
  • brush, paper,
  • a bowl of water.

Step-by-step instruction:

  1. Step 1: Fix the wet paper. No base paint was applied here to show the natural color of the wood. Therefore, we immediately take a sheet of paper, tear it into uneven pieces. different shapes and size. After that, dip each piece in a bowl of water and place it on the wood you are going to paint.
  2. Step 2: Apply paint. Having laid out all the pieces of paper, immediately start painting in the selected color, that is, you do not need to wait for the paper to dry.
  3. Step 3: paint stripping Then, carefully lift each piece of paper off the surface. You can do this while the paint is still slightly damp or after it has completely dried.

You can make multiple layers, for example, as in the previous method. To do this, follow step by step instructions described there, replacing the wax with damp paper.

3. Texture with a dry brush "Loft"

This technique is great for creating an old and scratched look. The key to success here is just using a very dry brush. For example, old, stiff-bristled brushes work well.

Necessary materials:

  • stiff bristled brush
  • water-based paint.

Instructions:

This is how the process looks like:

  1. Dip the brush in the paint of the chosen color and leave as little paint as possible on it.
  2. Apply paint in quick strokes in different directions... Be careful not to get carried away over the entire surface.

This technique is also suitable for painting with the metal effect of a loft, for example, for creating such fake zinc letters.

You can also combine this method using sandpaper to remove some of the paint after each coat.

4. Painting with scrapers in the Provence style

The result will be about the same as using sandpaper. The difference is that sandpaper not only removes some of the paint, but also evens out the surface of the wood if there were irregularities in that place (which is not suitable if you want to preserve the structure of the wood, leaving it as natural as possible). The second difference is that sandpaper is used only after the paint has dried.


Necessary materials: brush, paint, scraper (or any unnecessary plastic card).

Instructions:

  1. Paint the tree first.
  2. After that, how the paint will dry a little(not completely dry, literally a few minutes, when the coating is already formed, but still sticky to the touch), take a scraper or old plastic card and scrape off some of the paint in some places.

ADVICE: If you paint furniture, then scrape off the paint on the corners and edges, because this is where it most often peels off during use. Thus, the effect of antiquity will look more natural.

5. Rinsing method

For an aged wood look, this method works well for elegant rustic or Provence furnishings. It is best used on raw wood.

Necessary materials:

  • paint, brush,
  • water, rag.

Instructions:

  • Apply a coat of paint and leave to dry for a few minutes (as in the previous method, so that it is still sticky and not completely dry).
  • Then quickly rinse the wood with water gently wiping the surface with a rag. The goal is to wash off some of the paint on the surface. Leave to dry. That's all!

For example, a table painted gently in green, after applying this method, it looks just fine.

6. Method of painting with wooden blocks

This is a simple method to age wood or furniture using wooden block.

Necessary materials:

  • paint, brush,
  • wooden block.

Instructions:

  • Dip the end of the block of wood in the paint and run it along the surface to be painted.
  • Apply as many colors and layers as you like.

Here, for example, we made one layer of light blue paint.

7. Paint filling method

This is a one-step method suitable for all types of wood with a lot of surface texture.

Necessary materials: paint, scraper (or plastic card).

Instructions: You just need to pour some paint onto the surface of the wood and smear it with a scraper. Wait for it to dry and you're done!

After we have covered all 7 methods for painting wood with an antique effect, I would like to highlight a few basic tips that you can apply to all methods:

  • If the surface you intend to paint is has been treated with a sealant, wax or varnish, it would be better polish it a little to make the new paint work better.
  • Feel free to experiment: you can mix and match these techniques as you see fit to create your own personal design style.
  • First practice on some piece of wood or on less visible areas of furniture (for example, on the inside of a painted cabinet door) before working on more visible parts.

And remember that the main thing here is your desire! Good luck!