Sometimes it is the only solution to ensure a comfortable and cozy stay in a private house, especially in the northern regions. In the autumn-spring and winter seasons the base under your feet can cool down quickly enough, and you have to walk in warm socks, otherwise your feet get very cold. Also, it can be considered a plus in some way additional heating of the building itself from the inside... In objects of individual residential construction, warm water floors are often made. Wiring diagrams in a private house they can be very different, but the essence is the same - such a heating system was and remains the most often equipped in the house. Let's see what are the features of water floors, how you can make them yourself.
Warm floors are not a novelty for a long time. For several decades they have been used to create comfort and coziness in the house and are especially popular in private houses where there are no neighbors below, but only a basement or foundation. And, of course, in the cold seasons, the floor underfoot will be cool, if not icy (a lot depends on how well the floors were insulated).
Water-based underfloor heating is quite often recommended for floor heating in any private house, although there are also electric and. The latter are often settled in apartments, since they do not carry the danger of flooding the premises, and are also easier to install - in particular, they do not need construction cement screed... But the water floors are, perhaps, perfect option for a private house, especially if there is a heating boiler in it.
On a note! Water system heating cannot be regarded as the only heating system in the house. It can only act as an additional one together with heating radiators and other heaters. But making life in the house comfortable is just her task.
It is easy to understand that, unlike an electrical system, water plays the role of a heater in the water, which enters the pipes laid and filled with a screed. The heat carrier is supplied through a special collector, which is connected to the heating system (central, heating boiler, etc.). Heat comes from the heated water circulating through the pipes to the concrete screed, heats it up, and it, in turn, gives off heat to the room and warms up flooring... Therefore, walking on such a floor will be pleasant.
Attention! Water systems are used, as a rule, in private homes. The apartment rarely has the ability to connect the system to central heating, and it is also possible to flood the neighbors living below in the event of a system breakdown.
The water-based heating system has many advantages. These include:
But this system also has disadvantages. So, for example, installation is indispensable, and this is quite hard work that requires certain skills. Plus, the screed will have to be dried before use, and this is plus 28 days to the duration of the repair. And during this period, nothing can be done in the room being repaired. Another drawback is the complexity of repairing the system itself, if necessary. So it is important to do everything with high quality initially, so that later you can avoid troubles for a long time.
The main element of such a floor heating system is the pipes through which the coolant water circulates. They can be either metal or made of polymer materials. The former are distinguished by their high price and complexity of the connections, while the latter are much easier to lay, and they are cheaper. In addition to pipes, you will need other elements of this system. This is a base in the form of a concrete slab or polystyrene, a waterproofing layer, a thermal insulation layer, concrete screed... On top of this cake, the final coating is laid directly. In general, the thickness of the entire structure will turn out to be about 7-15 cm.
Depending on how the underfloor heating is being arranged, there are several main types of construction.
Table. Types of water floors.
| Type of | Description |
|---|---|
| Heavy | This is the most common and highly reliable option. Here it is important to carefully prepare the rough surface (subfloor or floors), then lay heat and waterproofing layers, and then a layer of reinforcing mesh, to which the heating circuit itself from pipes will be attached with clamps. After that, it remains to fill everything with a screed, dry it, and the warm floor is ready for use. Heavy water floors are also called concrete or wet floors. The latter is due to the fact that it is required to carry out work on filling the screed. It is important to understand that the screed layer above the pipes themselves should not be less than 3 cm. |
| Lungs | In this case, a special polystyrene foam plate is used as a base for pipes. It is sold in finished version... During installation, it must be laid on the subfloor and laid along it in accordance with the underfloor heating pipe diagram. They will not need additional fixation, since there are special protrusions on the plate itself that allow you to securely fix the pipes. Then, special heat-distributing plates are placed on top, on top of which the installation is carried out finishing coating... it a good option for arranging a water floor in conditions of impossibility of installing it according to the standard scheme due to the high severity of the standard screed. |
There is also another option for arranging the underfloor heating system - on wooden slats. That is, a tree will be used as the basis for such a floor, to which the pipes are attached, and from above they are closed with gypsum fiber and topcoat... This variant is used extremely rarely and it is not reliable.
It was already mentioned above that the schemes for laying a warm floor can be different. Depending on the scheme and compliance with the installation rules, the distribution of thermal energy in the room will also occur. There are three main pipe layout schemes, but all of them are united by the fact that pipes are necessarily installed from the walls towards the central part.
Table. Installation schemes for the water floor.
| Scheme type | Characteristic |
|---|---|
| In this case, the pipes are laid in a spiral from the wall to the center, and then returned to the starting point. Moreover, the structure gradually narrows towards the center of the room. When calculating the circuit and laying it down, remember to leave free space between the pipes so that you can "take" them back to the power source. It is noted that such a scheme will allow achieving the most uniform heating of the floors, and thanks to it, hydraulic resistance can be reduced. The number of pipes is also used less than in other cases. The main drawback is the difficult installation. |
| In this case, pipes are laid along the walls in loops in one direction, and then in the opposite direction. When looking at such a scheme, one can notice the waviness of the final drawing. It is easy to lay pipes in this way, but due to the frequent step of laying pipes, it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve uniform heating of floors without temperature jumps. |
| In this case, both pipe laying schemes are combined. This option is used if the walls in the room are cold enough. The pipes are laid in such a way that in some places they lie in the form of loops, and in some places at right angles. |
Before we talk directly about the process of installing a water floor, it is worth talking about some of the features of this process. So, it is important to take into account that in many respects the thermal load of any room will directly depend on what materials the walls are made of, how everything is insulated, how large the window openings are, as well as on a number of other factors. We'll have to try to calculate the heat transfer. If it is more than 100 W / m 2, then water floors cannot be used as the main heating system, but only directly as floor heating.
The length of the pipes also cannot be any. It will depend on the size of the room and the installation pattern. You may have to lay two or even more contours in one large room. This applies primarily to rooms with an area of more than 30 m 2. And each circuit will heat independently of the other, although all circuits can be connected to the same manifold. However, the diameter of the pipes, the pitch between them and the length must be the same if the lines are connected to the same system. And the length and pitch of the contour, in turn, depend on the diameter of the pipes. The larger it is, the longer the outline can be.
Advice! If the room has built-in furniture, then the floor area under it does not need to be taken into account in the calculations. There will still be no sense from a warm floor, and pipes there may not be laid.
You need to make a small indent from each wall (about 10-15 cm from the outer ones and up to 30 cm - for interior walls). The pitch between the pipes can vary between 20-30 cm if they are used as an additional option for heating the room.
A water floor is an ideal heating option for large rooms with an area of more than 20 m 2. But in a small room, it is better to choose some other option, since it will be very inconvenient to lay water lines. It is also worth dwelling on the heavy version of the warm floor if possible, that is, to mount it using a concrete screed. This is the most reliable, albeit the most durable option, but it is ideal for a private home. By the way, the screed itself very well protects the pipes of the circuit from the risk of damage and by itself is capable of retaining heat for a long time, which means it will help save money.
The issue of organizing heating is the most important for everyone building their home. Of course, if you exclude the inhabitants of the tropics, where the problem is diametrically opposite. It is estimated that a water floor can save up to 20% on heating costs. But only if you do it right!
Of course, with calculations! And very detailed - the wrong choice of laying pitch or pipe diameter will lead to forever cold rooms or streaks of heat on the floor. And given that the system is literally "embedded", the cost of rework will exceed the installation of a new warm floor.
It is rather difficult to do it manually, so it is better to use one of the special programs, for example Valtec. It is a multifunctional program for calculating heating, water supply and hydraulics.
The advantage of using the programs is the simplicity of calculations. By simply entering the necessary information into the appropriate cells, you can get the calculation at the output:
Before you start buying materials, you need to take into account all the nuances. First, it is the diameter of the pipes. Don't take too big, 16mm is enough. A pipe of this diameter allows you to make a step of at least 10 cm without a crease on the bend when laying with a snake. But the maximum pipe length cannot exceed 90 m.
Secondly, this is the step of laying pipes - ideally, it should be within 10-20 cm, and must be a multiple of 5. Near the outer walls and windows, the step is smaller, and near the inner ones - more.
Under heavy furniture that is close to the floor and installed against interior walls, you can start to lay the hinges at a distance of 1 m from the walls. Also, do not lay pipes under the floor-standing toilet - drilling the holes for the fasteners can damage the floor system.
Thirdly, it is the length of the pipes. It must be the same for all circuits connected to the same collector. Of course, in practice, this is unrealistic to achieve, so you need to reduce the difference to a maximum of 10 m. large rooms you will have to lay two contours, in small ones - reduce the laying step. At the same time, it is not recommended to connect more than 9 circuits 90 m long to one collector - it is better to split them into two devices.
Pipes cannot go up from it, so another collector will have to be installed on the second floor. If the collector is on the outer wall, the outgoing pipes are necessarily insulated.
If the house is wooden or frame, and the load-bearing floors are not designed for the weight of the concrete screed, you can arrange a warm floor heating. Its advantage is the absence of a "wet" process, so immediately after installing the system, you can enjoy the warmth in the house.
Another undoubted advantage of this solution is the small thickness of the cake and the possibility of laying it on an old wooden floor. How to do it simply is clearly shown in the video:
For a private house, underfloor heating perfect solution... It will create a wonderful indoor climate during the most severe winters. With its proper organization, the warm floor can be used as the main source of heat. To achieve this, you should know how to make a warm floor in a private house. In this article, you will learn about the possibilities of implementing underfloor heating in your home with your own hands.
Before equipping underfloor heating it is important to make all the necessary calculations. For example, you should determine how much heat loss your home has. How to do it? When calculating heat losses, it is necessary to take into account the following parameters:
If you decide to create a warm floor project in a specialized design organization, then you should prepare all this and other data in advance. However, you can make such calculations yourself, but the error will be greater. For example, there are two methods:
The best option for making calculations is considered - by the volume of the room.
When calculating a warm floor for a private house, it is important to determine the amount of heat energy received from it. As practice shows, warm floors give out 60-80 W / m 2. In fact, this is a rather big indicator, as it might seem at first glance. If you multiply it by the area of the room, then the result is a high rate of thermal energy.
It is important not to be mistaken here. We will be discussing the heated area, not the total. For example, it makes no sense to heat the floor under a cupboard or other bulky items. Therefore, the calculation is done selectively.
The heated area is the area where the pipe and the heating circuit are laid. To determine this area, subtract the area of all objects installed on the floor. Only after that you can proceed to accurate calculations of the warm floor. To do this, multiply the resulting area by 60 or 80 W / m 2. If the floor covering will be used ceramic tile, then multiply by 80, and for other coatings by 60.
Before starting the installation of a cable underfloor heating, be sure to make a project. This will allow you to make an accurate calculation. necessary material and also define the zones that will not be heated. Also indicate in the project the location of the temperature sensor and the place of connection to the electrical network. You will need this project when repair work so save it.
To determine the exact distance between heating cables, you can use the following formula: L1 = P × 100 / L2
L1 is the required distance in cm.
· P is the total free area in m 2.
· L - cable length in m.
To prevent heat loss, it is recommended to mount the heating cable on a heat-reflecting material. Also, make sure that the connection between the power cable and the heating cable does not bend. As for the location of the temperature sensor, it should be at a distance of 50-100 cm from the wall.
The first step is to install the thermal insulation and reflective film, and then proceed with the installation of the cable. Thanks to a special fastening, the cable is fixed every 30 mm. The line should not intersect with each other. There must be at least 400 mm to the borders of furniture and other stationary items.
At a height of 1.2 m from the floor, install a thermostat that will control the temperature level in the room.
When the cable is fully assembled, it remains to fill it with a tie. When making a cement-sand mortar, do not add large fractions of pebbles to the composition. The underfloor heating screed must be at least 50 mm. When pouring the screed, make sure that there is no air left inside, otherwise this may lead to failure of the heating circuit. It is forbidden to turn on the heating cable while the screed is drying. It should dry as naturally as possible. This may take about one month.
There is also a technology for laying heating mats. Their installation is much faster, since the cable is already fixed on a special mounting grid with the required pitch. The principle of their installation is practically no different from the technology described above. The only thing that is needed is to measure the operating resistance. It must correspond to the specified indicators in the instructions for the product.
With regard to efficiency, the water underfloor heating is unmatched in terms of efficiency. However, it is much more difficult to install, plus the cost of such a floor is very high. However, compared to a radiator system, you will pay 20% less energy usage. So, to create water heating you need:
- Boiler.
- Pipes.
- Heat carrier.
- Circulation pump.
- Mixing unit.
- Collector.
This is with regard to the equipment. In addition, you will need to purchase thermal insulation, fill the screed and lay the flooring. Therefore, as a result, you will have decent expenses.
In most cases, the water pipes are laid in the floor screed. A plasticizer is added to the solution, which increases specifications finished screed, and also accelerates the drying process. In such a system, the heating "pie" is an excellent accumulator of thermal energy. It can maintain the required room temperature for a long time. Even after turning off the heating, the room will be warm for some period.
If your private house is built of wood, then the screed will not work here. It will have a strong effect on the overlap. For this reason, the practice of using a flooring system, which is made of wood or polystyrene. It is lightweight and very easy to install.
If you have chosen a water heat-insulated floor, then remember that it can be laid in the floor during the construction of a building.
So, which one is the best to use heating for a private house? If you are on a tight budget, you can install electric heating, but it will be very expensive to maintain. On the other hand, water heating requires large financial investments at the stage of its installation. However, during its operation, it is quite economical. There are many working schemes that can be used when arranging floor heating. Leave your comments if you have already implemented underfloor heating in your home.
Video
In the provided video material, it is described in more detail about the creation of a warm floor in a private house:
Living in a gas-polluted city, more and more of our fellow citizens are beginning to think about changing their place of residence to a more environmentally friendly one. For quite some time now the owners country house can enjoy the silence and clean air.
However, such a life provides a slightly different level of comfort than living in a city apartment. To the most urgent problems a separate residential building should be attributed to insufficient floor temperature.
Today there are solutions to eliminate this disadvantage. We are talking about a water floor heating system, which any homeowner can arrange with his own hands. You can achieve the desired result if you have the necessary skills and experience.
Today, the owner of a country house has two ways to solve the problem of heating a room: a water heating device and the use of electricity.
Electricity is used today infrared film constructions... But, given its high cost, this option cannot be used to solve the problem of heating a house from a position of expediency.
For this reason, most owners country houses more and more often choose water heating systems.
However, against the background of a water floor, electrical systems have an important advantage, which consists in in the absence of difficulties when installing. Perform styling electric cable any person can do. But not everyone is able to cope with the installation of pipes and connecting them to a heating boiler the first time.
At the same time, it must be remembered that when using electrical systems heating is celebrated negative effect from the side of electromagnetic waves on the health of people living in a private building.
The action of the water floor system is based on the movement of heated water, which contained in pipes laid under the floor covering. The heat emitted by it spreads to the floor covering, and it already begins to heat the air in the room.
Installation of the pipeline requires adherence to a certain step. The choice of this parameter is based on heat engineering calculations, when performing which it is necessary to take into account a number of factors:
Usually, when installing a warm water floor in a private house, the owners opt for pipes from plastic or metal-plastic.
The reason for this decision is affordable price... Also, there are no difficulties with installation, while they have a long service life, which can be up to 50 years.
After the pipes have been laid connect to the heating boiler... As well as plain water other types of non-freezing liquids can also distribute heat through pipes.
Even before the installation of a water-heated floor in a private house, attention should be paid to the base, which should be durable and not have irregularities.
To bring it to the required form, preparatory measures are carried out, which consist in a waterproofing device, laying insulation and creating a cement-sand screed.
You should also make sure that the room has windows and doors installed, the walls were plastered, and the places where the heating, sewerage and water pipelines will be connected have been determined.
Quite often, underfloor heating in country house have to stack on reinforced concrete slab overlap. In such situations, the first step is to place vapor barrier layer.
When installing waterproofing, you can use special compounds with a bituminous base, or glue the base with materials such as roofing material, fiberglass, fiberglass... To fix them, it is necessary to use formulations on a similar basis.
As for vapor barrier, it will do an excellent job with this role. polyethylene film with a minimum thickness of 0.2 mm. The device of hydro and vapor barrier is a mandatory requirement, the fulfillment of which allows to ensure the protection of the insulating layer from moisture.
The risk of occurrence of the latter increases against the background of condensation, when a warm floor slab is in contact with cold ground.
When installing a film vapor barrier or waterproofing based on pasting materials, material is used in the form of strips, which should be placed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. When working with a film, it is necessary fix with tape.
If you have to deal with sheets of gluing waterproofing, then bitumen compositions are used for fixing. Regardless of the type of insulation used, it must be placed on a vertical surface above the insulation layer and fixed to the walls.
Situations are common when the process of building private houses takes place without the use of a floor slab. A similar option is chosen in cases where the project does not provide for a basement.
Preparatory activities are reduced to creating a primary layer based on sand and crushed stone... Moreover, they are laid out in the form of separate layers on top of each other, maintaining a height of no more than 10 cm. The obligatory procedure that each layer must undergo is moistening and tamping.
Next, proceed to filling concrete mix the area of the room chosen for laying a water-heated floor. It will be useful to place reinforcement mesh, which will increase the reliability of the structure. It is necessary to ensure the horizontalness of the surface, using a building level for verification.
When pouring concrete, it is necessary focus on lighthouse rails... Their benefit lies not only in simplifying the observance of horizontal, but also in their performance of the role of expansion joints. Following building codes and the rules, it is necessary to ensure that the horizontal differences do not exceed 1 centimeter.
When installing a warm water floor in a country house with your own hands, thermal insulation plays an important role. Its main task is to restrict the access of heat coming from pipes with hot water to the lower part of the underground space, which can be the ground or the basement.
The efficient operation of the system will only be achieved when the heat is directed only upward into the living space.
Particular attention should be paid to the right choice material for thermal insulation and its thickness. This will greatly affect how much you can reduce heating costs.
When choosing the thickness of the insulating layer, the following parameters are taken into account:
If you follow the standards, then the insulating layer on which the screed will be built in the future, created above the ground base or cold basement, should have a thickness of 50 mm. In the case of laying on floor slabs, this parameter can be reduced.
In most cases, the role of a heat insulator performs expanded polystyrene having a foil-based coating on one side. Working with this material is fraught with some inconvenience, since you have to use improvised means, for example, clamps, to fix the pipes.
However, you can get rid of such difficulties if you buy more modern plates based on expanded polystyrene, which provide accelerated installation and more high level quality of installation.
Due to the special design, these plates provide a strong connection, which is greatly facilitated by the use of locking devices. Therefore, if you use such structures, then the problem of creating a solid, strong and even base is solved quite simply.
The material used has high density characteristics and a vapor barrier layer represented by a film based on rigid polystyrene. In addition to this, in the construction of slabs special channels are provided designed to accommodate heating pipes.
The technology of mounting such plates in a country house does not require the use of a tape measure or other measuring instruments. The presence of linear markings on the edges eliminates this need.
Due to this, it becomes possible to complete installation work in less time. This advantage is not the only one that is inherent in these plates, however, already taking this into account, it can be understood that such a choice will not be wrong.
Care should be taken that the polystyrene foam boards are placed over the entire floor area. With this installation option, you can guarantee high level of strength concrete screed and the reliability of the entire heating system.
Despite the fact that you have some knowledge regarding the installation of pipes in an apartment, it is best that this work is performed by qualified specialists. Only in this case is it possible guarantee effective work
underfloor heating systems.
When laying such heating systems, a number of rules must be observed:
Among all the heating options available today underground systems are the most preferable, surpassing radiator and air counterparts in their characteristics. But it must be remembered that not all owners are able to correctly perform the device of a water-heated floor with their own hands.
At the same time, many can handle the preparation of the foundation. This work should not be neglected as it will help. save a lot of money on the installation of an underfloor heating system in a country house.
Unlike an electric floor heating on a liquid heat carrier, it requires more complex calculations for integration into the heating system. The service life and efficiency of the system directly depend on the correct choice of materials, fittings, installation and heating operation scheme.
In contrast to popular belief, the choice of pipes for installing a heat exchanger in the floor is not so wide. There are two options in total: XLPE and copper. The most obvious advantages of special materials are durability, deformation resistance, low coefficient of linear expansion. But the main advantage is the oxygen barrier, which ultimately prevents the formation of sediment on the inner surface of the pipes.
The meaning of the use of copper in the high thermal conductivity of the tubes and corrosion resistance. An obvious disadvantage is the complexity of installation and a high risk of failure in the presence of solid particles (sand) in the coolant. Despite the fact that soldering requires only an inexpensive gas lamp and flux, bending the coil correctly is a difficult task. This is despite the fact that there can be several tens of turns of the copper tube, and one mistake, resulting in a break, leads to the rejection of the entire segment or the need for additional soldering.
Polymer (polyethylene) tubes have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion, in addition, they lose strength properties when heated above operating temperatures, however, in underfloor heating in principle, the coolant does not heat up above 40 ° C. Ease of installation is an obvious plus. Easy to bend and fit in a spiral or coil. The pipe is delivered in coils of 200 m each, allowing you to install underfloor heating without a single joint in the entire volume of the future screed. Most of branded polyethylene tubing implies the use of special tools for crimping and welding.
Hot water heating systems with underfloor heating do not work according to the gravitational principle and always remain volatile. Because of this, overheating occurs: failures in the circulation and recirculation system can supply 70-80 ° C, so the funds from saving on the use of polymer pipes should at least partially be spent on improving automation and auxiliary mechanisms.
The flow rate of the coolant in the tubes is strictly regulated by the manufacturer; assigning this task to the general circulation of the system means increasing the risk of malfunctions. A forced circulation device must be installed in front of the collector unit, then each of the circuits is adjusted to adjust the required flow rate. This defines maximum length loops of each circuit and the temperature difference at its beginning and end.
For pumping water in the system, circulation pumps are used, designed for radiator heating systems. The diameter of the nozzles is determined by the required throughput of the pipe with which the pump is connected to the manifold. The lift height (or injection pressure) is determined by the total hydrodynamic resistance of pipes declared by their manufacturer for different loop configurations and bending radii. Each connection requires an increase in the lift height. Speed control for underfloor heating pumps is not required, however, with accelerated circulation, more intensive pumping of the system is possible to quickly enter the mode.
When using more than one branch for floor heating, the presence of a manifold unit (comb) is strictly required. Self-soldering of the collector, even for two loops, will not give the desired result; it is almost impossible to balance the lines in the absence of uniform distribution and valve regulators.
The collector is selected both by the number of branches and by the total throughput. Essentially, it is a multi-channel flow regulator. Of the body materials, stainless steel and high-quality brass are the most preferred. For underfloor heating, two types of collectors can be used. If the difference in the length of the circuits is less than 20-30 meters, ordinary brass valves with ball valves are suitable. With a larger spread of hydrodynamic resistances, a specialized collector with flow regulators at each branch is needed.
Please note that it is not necessary to buy a double (supply + return) collector. You can install a high-quality mixer with flow meters on the supply line, and a cheaper one with valve (not ball) valves on the return line. Separately, it is worth paying attention to what type of pipes the manifold unit is designed for. Most cheap products involve the connection of MP pipes, which are poorly suited for underfloor heating and therefore are used less and less. For polyethylene circuits, it is better to spend money on reliable and proven collectors REHAU, for copper tube systems - Valtec and APE. Accession copper tubes it is recommended to the manifold through a flare and / or threaded fitting; direct brazing is not recommended due to the low maintainability of such connections.
The manifold itself is not the entire collector. When assembled, the mixing unit is completed with special fittings, which ensure the adjustment of the water temperature before entering the system. Both hot and cold water can be mixed, which fundamentally determines the specifics of the operation of the two types of mixing.
A simple scheme for switching on a warm floor. 1 - three-way valve; 2 - circulation pump; 3 - ball valve with a thermometer; 4 - distribution manifold with flow meters; 5 - return manifold with control valves; 6 - underfloor heating contour. The temperature control in the circuit is carried out manually and is highly dependent on the temperature of the heating medium at the inlet.
The first type uses a closed circulation cycle, mixing hot water with a three-way valve as needed. The disadvantage of the system is that in the event of malfunctions in the automation or the use of solid fuel boilers, a large amount of hot water negatively affecting polymers, as well as the flooring and the microclimate in the room. Therefore, hot water pumping is practiced mainly in systems with copper pipes.
Ready-made mixing unit for underfloor heating. Temperature control and the degree of mixing of the coolant are carried out fully automatically
For polyethylene circuits, more expensive collectors are preferable, mixing cold water from the return to reduce the incoming temperature. The complexity of such mixing units is due to the presence of an additional recirculation pump. The regulation can be done either by an adjustable two-way valve or by an electronic thermostat that controls the speed of the pump motor. The latter is an example of the struggle for accuracy and reduction of system inertia, by the way, very successful. However, such systems are volatile.
Whether to take the collector assembly is a controversial issue. Of course, the availability of a guarantee is an obvious plus, but it is not always possible to find a model with the necessary strapping and the number of taps, in such cases you will have to assemble the device yourself.
The cake of a water-heated floor is as follows: polymeric foam insulation, heating pipes and a heat-accumulating screed in the order from bottom to top. The thickness and materials used for the base layers must be selected in accordance with the operating parameters of the system.
Insulation is selected taking into account the planned heating temperature, or more precisely, the temperature difference between the warm and the subfloor. They mainly use EPS or PPU plates with butting edges. This material is practically incompressible under distributed load, while the resistance to heat transfer is one of the highest. Approximate thickness polymer insulation- 35 mm for a temperature difference of 30 ºС and then 3 mm for every 5 ºС.
Methods for installing a warm floor in a private house. Three options for fastening and distributing pipes are proposed: A - Use of special mounting mats for a warm floor. B - Installation on a reinforcing mesh with a step of 10 cm using plastic ties. C - Laying pipes in prepared gutters in insulation using reflective screens. Underfloor heating construction: 1 - concrete base of the subfloor; 2 - insulation; 3 - damper tape; 4 - concrete screed; 5 - floor covering; 6 - reinforcing mesh.
In addition to protecting the pipes from damage, the screed regulates the inertia of the heating system and smoothes the temperature difference between the floor areas directly above the pipes and between them. If the boiler operates in a cyclic mode, the heated concrete will give off heat, even if there is no hot water supply temporarily. In case of accidental overheating, the heat-absorbing screed will provide temperature removal, eliminating damage to the pipes. The average screed thickness is 1 / 10-1 / 15 of the distance between adjacent tubes. By increasing the thickness, you can get rid of the thermal zebra effect with sparse piping. Naturally, the consumption of materials, as well as the inertia and time of the system reaching the mode will increase in this case.
When installing underfloor heating on the ground, it is necessary to pour 15-20 cm of an incompressible layer of ASG. Crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay for additional thermal insulation. For insulated frame floors The underfloor heating can be laid directly on top of the waterproofing material, which covers the subfloor in order to avoid the release of cement laitance from the screed. In the best case, a thermal cut-off layer made of polyurethane foam or EPSP of 20-25 mm is arranged under the tubes. Even such a thin layer is enough to eliminate the cold bridges presented by supporting structure floor, as well as to distribute the load from the screed.
Installation of underfloor heating water should take place according to a pre-planned scheme. The collector requires a place equipped for installation, it can be either a boiler room or a compartment hidden in the wall. The rationale for installing intermediate headers depends on whether savings are achieved compared to laying pipes from a central distribution unit, and whether such an increase in the length of the largest loop is acceptable. It is recommended to supply pipes to heating zones in rooms that do not require targeted floor heating: storerooms, corridors and others like them.
Fasten the underfloor heating pipes only to a special installation system. Perforated tape or mesh provides precise adjustment of the installation step, reliable fixation during the mixture solidification and the gaps necessary for the temperature solution.
The fixing of the installation system to the floor is carried out through the insulation without significant pressure. You need to fix it in the holes formed after bending the petals to crimp the tubes. Thus, the attachment points are located most close to the heating elements, which excludes their floating, displacement or lifting of the entire system when pouring concrete.
