Compared to other crops, the tomato is a hardy plant that can forgive many care mistakes and subsequently yield a harvest. But in order to achieve the maximum result for your spent efforts, you need to focus on some important points leaving. This will help you understand why tomatoes are blooming, but not tied, what to do in this case in order to get a decent harvest.
Before proceeding with the elimination of the problem, you should understand each case.
Often the reason why there is little color on tomatoes is the thickening of the plantings in the greenhouse. As a result, the bushes form a shadow to each other, which prevents a full-fledged fruit ovary. Sometimes sunlight does not pass to the lower tier of the shoots due to the abundant foliage.
This occurs as a result of a disruption in the process of photosynthesis, since in the absence of a sufficient amount of light, the plant cannot make a supply of nutrients for flower brushes and therefore gets rid of them as if they were unnecessary ballast.
Lack of vitamin D
Important! The main condition for the successful cultivation of tomatoes in a greenhouse is correct location varieties, that is, low-growing tomatoes should be placed on the illuminated rows, and tall tomatoes should be placed behind them, which will help to avoid shading with each other.
In some cases, the answer to the question of why tomatoes are not tied lies in improper watering. For example, sparse irrigation leads to drying out of the root system and, as a result, the flowers are discarded.
The problem can also be provoked by the introduction of cold water from a hose under the root of tomatoes. In this case, the plants receive a certain stress, since they are not able to perceive moisture at low temperatures with a high salt content. This is especially critical at the height of a hot day, when the contrast is very noticeable for tomatoes. As a result, the ovary and peduncles fall off, since the plant is in a stupor after such a shake-up. This is critical both for tomatoes in open ground, and in the greenhouse.
Sometimes the reason why flowers and ovaries fall off in tomatoes is a lack of essential nutrients, namely phosphorus and potassium.
Excessive infatuation organic fertilizers such as chicken droppings, manure leads to an uncontrolled build-up of green mass, which also contributes to barrenness and shedding of the ovary. This is due to the fact that the bushes do not receive the necessary nutrition for the maintenance of flower brushes and fruits.
Lack of water
Sharp temperature fluctuations can also be the reason why there is no full-fledged tomato ovary in the greenhouse. The most dangerous is a sharp decrease or increase temperature regime within 10 degrees. In this case, the plants cannot quickly cope with the load and therefore react to the shock by dropping the ovary.
Note! It is very important that the nighttime temperature does not drop below 15 degrees, as at this time of the day the pollen ripens, which makes it possible to pollinate the ovary pistil in the morning.
Tomatoes are considered a self-pollinated crop, but when the temperature in the greenhouse rises above 36 degrees, fruits that do not contain seeds are formed, and as a result, the plant recognizes them as unable to produce offspring and abruptly discards them.
The reason why tomatoes do not set very well may be prolonged cloudy weather. This leads to the fact that the pollen becomes incapable of pollination due to the lack of sunlight.
The most dangerous reason why flowers fall off in tomatoes in a greenhouse is a pest attack or a fungal infection. This often happens when you ignore the soil disinfection procedure before planting tomatoes or when a large amount of manure is introduced into the soil.
The main enemy
As a result, both the aboveground part of the plant and the root system are damaged, which leads to a lack of nutrition and a sharp drop of the ovary.
Having found out the reason why tomatoes are not tied in the greenhouse, it is necessary to decide what to do first and how to improve the formation of fruits. Several effective methods should be taken and then the result obtained will exceed all expectations.
To improve the access of light to the lower tier of flower brushes, you should remove excess leaves and carry out the timely formation of the bush in one or two shoots. In addition, it is important to correctly place tall and low-growing varieties so that they do not create shadows towards each other.
In this situation, the only way out can be the maximum breaking off of the foliage, as well as the installation of additional lighting using phytolamps.
You can also prevent further dropping of the ovary in tomatoes in the greenhouse by adjusting the watering.
Important! Soil moistening should be carried out in the morning or in the evening, this is the optimal mode for tomatoes.
For irrigation, use warm, settled water. If the soil dries up due to a prolonged lack of watering, you should first loosen the soil in the greenhouse, and then moisten it. This method will prevent the ovaries from falling off the bushes and will improve the access of moisture to the roots.
The increased humidity in the greenhouse also leads to the fall of flowers in tomatoes, what to do in this case, the gardener should know in advance. The increased level of moisture in the air causes the pollen to swell and lose its ability to fertilize. Therefore, it is worth regularly ventilating the greenhouse and transferring watering to the morning, which will help maintain an optimal climate for plants and prevent the appearance of fungal diseases.
It is possible to increase the resistance of tomatoes to the effects of external negative factors by processing with special preparations.
In order for the tomatoes to bloom and the ovary does not fall off, it is necessary to introduce nutrients such as phosphorus and potassium.
Important! It is necessary to fertilize tomatoes in moderation in order to maintain a balance between the capabilities of the plant and the load, therefore, periodically, the bushes should be gently shaken to make it possible to get rid of excess inflorescences.
During the budding period, root phosphate-potassium dressing should be carried out using 20 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfide per 10 liters of water. And during the ovary of fruits, tomatoes should be fertilized at the rate of 25 g of potassium sulfide per 10 liters of water.
You can replace these drugs with a folk remedy based on wood ash. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a hood based on this component. Pour 100 g of ash into 1 liter of boiled water, leave for 1 day. Then add 9 liters of water, mix and spray the bushes.
We fertilize the soil
It is possible to prevent the shedding of the ovary with the help of additional pollination of flowers by insects. Therefore, during the flowering period, you should ensure that the door to the greenhouse is constantly open.
In addition, to attract pollinating insects, you can spray tomatoes with a sweet solution, adding 100 g of sugar to 10 liters of water.
Note! Use warm water for processing so as not to add additional stress to the tomatoes.
You can improve the flowering and ovary of tomatoes with the help of special stimulants.
An important factor is the preventive treatment of bushes from diseases and pests.
Common diseases and pests that provoke the discharge of the ovary.
Falling flowers in tomatoes is a common phenomenon that must be dealt with. Knowing why the ovaries of tomatoes fall off, you can take action in time and get a generous harvest.
This article will focus on the topic: tomatoes are blooming, but there is no ovary and what to do with this problem.
The first thing to talk about when solving a particular problem is about the reasons.
Why aren't tomatoes tied?
Unfortunately, this problem is quite common. There may be several reasons.
Let's talk about the last point, since everything is more or less clear with the previous ones.
How to feed tomatoes so that the fruits are tied.
We will talk about traditional preparations and folk remedies for feeding.
You should not overfeed the seedlings so that the tomatoes set faster. As mentioned above, an excess of fertilizer leads to the formation of thick and strong tops. In addition, we remember that tomatoes take everything from fertilizers to the maximum.
So, you can feed the following drugs:
What to do as a top dressing so that tomatoes are tied, from shells and yeast.
The recipes are very simple and accessible to everyone.
All spraying should be carried out in the evening in dry weather. Do not use highly concentrated solutions such as chicken manure in water for foliar feeding. This can lead to leaf burns.
In general, it is better to spill tomatoes with strong top dressing next to the root system, rather than directly on it.
I think we answered the question: tomatoes are not tied, what to do.
Use these tips, alternating folk remedies with traditional ones, then the result will not be long in coming. Your tomatoes will produce an excellent harvest.
Tomatoes are a common culture, but moderately troublesome. These people from warm regions require special attention. But even careful maintenance does not guarantee an excellent harvest. It happens that the seedlings are strong, and the bushes grow lush, and the flowering is abundant, but there is no ovary.
Why is this happening and what to do in such cases? This is not a simple question I addressed to Anna Gordeeva, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences.
In order for tomatoes to bloom profusely and at the same time form a large number of ovaries, it is necessary to create the most comfortable conditions for their growth and development.
Summer is very hot. And if the temperatures are still going through the roof, then tomatoes, especially in a greenhouse, are not at all sweet.
Both abnormally low and exorbitantly high temperature indicators are the main reason that few fruits are tied on abundantly flowering bushes.
Pollen from tomatoes ripens at night, and during the day it is pollinated. But for it to mature, it is necessary that the temperature is not lower than plus 15 degrees and not higher than plus 28. And when the thermometer hangs at the mark of plus 32 - 45 degrees and higher, the pollen becomes sterile. That is, the flowers are present, but the ovary does not appear, although the bees seem to be flying. To avoid this, the plants need to be shaded by stretching a white covering material under the ceiling and along the south wall. Tomatoes are very temperature sensitive. At night it should be from plus 15 to plus 21. If it is lower, then the plants will perceive this as a signal that it is too early to reproduce. Pollen production will stop and all vegetative processes will slow down.
At night temperatures above plus 25, the bushes will not be able to fully rest and, because of this, they will also form less ovary.
And of course, you can't rush to plant seedlings in the ground. Since pollen is formed at night, it is necessary to guess over time so that by the time of flowering it is no colder plus 15 degrees. You also need to choose zoned varieties that, after experiencing temperature changes, are able to give good harvest.
I must say that selection does not stand still. The so-called heat-resistant varieties and hybrids have already been bred, which do not even care about 35-degree heat. Among them, for example, such indeterminate hybrids as "Babylon F1", "Alcazar F1", "Chelbas F1", "Fantomas F1". From determinant tomatoes - "Ramses F1", "Portland F1", "Verlioka plus F1", "Gaspacho".
- Does something depend on the seeds themselves?
Oddly enough, it turned out that the ovaries are formed worse if the seedlings are grown from their own seeds. Store-bought, they usually go through all the necessary pre-sowing treatment. Therefore, if you sow seeds collected on your site, then be sure to pickle them in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate.
A possible cause of poor ovary formation may be the seeds that you harvested from the hybrids. When re-grown, they do not produce offspring.
- What about humidity?
If the soil dries up, then the flowers will dry out and fly around. This is another common reason for the lack of ovaries in tomatoes. Watch out for the plants. If the tops of the stems go down, the leaves become lethargic, dry out and fall off, then these are the first signals of a lack of moisture. Dry air prevents pollen from germinating on the pistil.
Humidity should be no more than 70%. If more, then the pollen will begin to roll in lumps and crumble, becoming ineffective. The ovary is best formed when the air humidity is 50 - 65%.
It is necessary to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for irrigation. It should be a couple of degrees higher than the air temperature. Water the tomatoes infrequently, abundantly, in the morning and at the root, and not on the leaves. Better yet, mulch the soil under the bushes to minimize evaporation. They do not like tomatoes and condensation, which becomes an ideal breeding ground for bacteria.
- In an open garden bed, tomatoes are pollinated by insects and the wind. In the greenhouse, there is neither one nor the other.
To attract bees, open doors and windows, plant fragrant plants, spray tomatoes with sweet liquid. Sometimes you even have to take on the role of a pollinator. To do this, it is enough to walk around the greenhouse in the morning or in the afternoon and lightly shake the tomato by the stem or trellis so that the pollen crumbles and scatters around.
If there are few bushes, then you can transfer pollen from one flower to another with a cotton swab or brush. Alternatively, install a fan in the greenhouse and direct the air flow to the plants, thereby helping the pollen to get to the pistil.
- Which is better: underfeeding or overfeeding tomatoes?
If you choose between two evils, it is better to keep the tomatoes on a starvation diet. The fact is that they are very greedy for feeding, assimilating almost all the substances that they can get from the earth. Yes, they need to be grown on rich fertile soils, but it must be remembered: a lack, as well as an excess of fertilizers, can lead to both the fall of flowers and the fact that the ovaries simply will not form.
For active fruit setting, tomatoes need phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. The deficiency of these microelements can be determined by the color of the plants. If there is little nitrogen, yellowness first appears on the lower leaves, and then the rest of the foliage turns yellow. The plant looks weak, lethargic, its branches are thin, and the brushes are poorly developed. With a lack of phosphorus, the bush acquires a purple color. Lack of potassium stains the leaves Brown color and then they dry up.
The bet on nitrogen should be made at the beginning of the growing season, and then, when the fruits begin to form, the plant should consume more potassium and phosphorus. Without them, the fruits will grow slowly, and the seeds will form weak, hardly capable of producing fruitful offspring.
An excess of fertilizers containing nitrogen forces the plants to build up vegetative mass (that is, the stems), forgetting about the fruits. And until all the nitrogen is used up, no ovaries are expected.
If the tomatoes grow on light soil, then pour water over them once (but abundantly!) So that the excess nitrogen goes to the lower layers of the soil, and then do not water the bushes for 5 - 7 days.
And further. If tomatoes are not fed during flowering, the fruits will be sour and unripe. If there is a lack of potassium and phosphorus, use "Superphosphate", "Potassium salt", "Potassium sulfate", "Potassium chloride". Calcium nitrate will not hurt either: 25 g per 10 liters of water - from top rot on tomatoes.
Complex fertilizers must be applied at temperatures above plus 16 degrees, otherwise the plants will not be able to assimilate macro- and microelements and they will remain in large quantities in the ground.
- What else can you fix overfeeding?
It is necessary to create a stressful situation for tomatoes. In order for the plants to begin bearing fruit, constantly remove the stepchildren and tear off 2 - 3 lower leaves. Stress will push the tomatoes to fruit. Also, do not forget to pinch the tops, leaving 3-4 shoots on one bush.
- That is, stepsons interfere with fruit formation?
Sure! Tomatoes love bright and sunny areas. If the plantings are very thickened, then the bushes may not have enough light, which will also cause poor flowering and poor ovary formation. Therefore, it is imperative to pinch the plants, and on time. After all, the stepsons are actively pulling strength from the mother's bush, and the setting of fruits is postponed indefinitely.
The first time the stepchildren are pruned 15 - 16 days after planting the seedlings, removing them with pruners or breaking them off with their fingers, so that a 1 cm long stump remains. You need to remove the stepsons until they are higher than 5 cm.If you tear off a larger shoot, the plant itself may suffer.
- Can a lack of microelements provoke a discharge of the ovary or its lack of development?
Yes, and this is one of the main reasons for the dropping of the ovaries. Boron deficiency is especially dangerous. It stimulates flowering, accelerates pollen germination, fruit and seed formation. It is this deficiency that sharply reduces the productivity of plants. Boron also normalizes nitrogen synthesis, improves metabolism, increases chlorophyll in foliage, makes tomatoes sweeter and juicier.
But there is very little boron in the soil. And the one that is, it is very difficult for plants to assimilate. Therefore, it will have to be entered additionally, and on the sheet.
Spray tomatoes every 10 - 14 days with a solution of "Boric acid" at the rate of 10 g per 10 liters of water.
Carry out the first treatment at the beginning of flowering, the second - at its height. When preparing the solution, use warm water. And when spraying, make sure that the composition does not fall on the top of the plants - only on the brushes and flowers.
You can use other stimulants of fruit formation, such as "Ovary" or "Bud".
By the way, not only tomatoes, but also strawberries and apple trees suffer most from the lack of boron.
BOARD "SB"
In order for tomatoes to bloom profusely and set as many fruits as possible, do not forget about prevention.
During flowering and ovary formation, do not allow too much nitrogen in the soil.
Shortly before the beginning of flowering, feed the bushes with "Potassium Sulfate" and "Double Superphosphate".
Loosen the soil around the plants regularly to improve the oxygen supply to the root system.
Timely and correctly pinch tomatoes, as well as remove unnecessary foliage.
REFERENCE "SB"
A successfully pollinated tomato flower can be recognized by its petals. They are bent for him, and for non-pollinated ones they are closed.
FOLK REMEDIES FOR INCREASING THE NUMBER OF BUD AND LININGS
IODINE SOLUTION can be used both for root dressing and for spraying on the leaves while laying the brush: 30 - 40 drops per 10 liters of warm water.
WOOD ASH contains minerals and trace elements (in particular, phosphorus and potassium) necessary for abundant flowering and the formation of ovaries in tomatoes. Pour 1 tbsp under each plant once a week. l. ash or use a solution: 1 tbsp. l. wood ash for 8 liters of water. Pour 1.5 liters of nutrient fluid on one bush twice a month.
From EGG SHELL you can also prepare an agent that stimulates flowering and fruiting. Pour crushed shells from 3 to 4 eggs into 3 liters of warm water. Close the container loosely and transfer it to a dark place for three days. After the product becomes cloudy and has an unpleasant odor, it can be used to water the tomatoes.
You can cook and MULTI-COMPONENT compound. For 10 liters of water - 2 glasses of milk, 10 g of "Boric acid", 30 drops of iodine and 1 g of "Potassium Permanganate". Mix everything well and process the bushes: both leaves and inflorescences. This is three in one at the same time: prevention of diseases, improvement of fertilization and fruit set. This mixture works effectively not only on tomatoes, but also on peppers, eggplants and even strawberries. She also saves the onion from downy mildew.
Planting tomato seedlings grown with great love and care on your plot, do not dream of a high-quality and maximally rich harvest? Dreams are dreams, but in reality everything is often not so smooth. You can often hear about the following problem even from the most experienced agronomists: tomatoes are blooming, but there is no ovary... "What to do?" They ask. “Follow our advice,” we reply.
If the tomatoes in the garden bloom successfully, but at the end of this process the ovary does not form, this is a problem with a specific reason. There are many such reasons, but it is up to you to choose the one that explains the problem in your particular case. As you read this article, you will see not only the alleged reasons for the lack of ovary on tomatoes, but also tips on what to do in order not to face such a situation. Your harvest is in your hands.
The existing number of reasons for the lack of ovary formation on tomatoes after flowering is quite limited, these are:
Lack of pollination... Tomatoes may not be pollinated due to unfavorable weather during flowering (rain, wind, fog), difficult access to tomatoes growing in the greenhouse, or if some factor repels insects, which play a key role in pollination and ovary formation. For example, untimely insecticide treatment of tomatoes can contribute to this. Neighboring plants can also scare away insects.
Temperature jumps... The reason for the absence of an ovary after flowering may be inappropriate temperature conditions. Perhaps the seedlings were planted too early in the open ground, and then the temperature below + 15 ° C deprived the plant of the strength to form fruits. Such plants have enough strength to build barren flowers. At too high temperatures, the pollen of tomato flowers is deprived of the ability to give rise to fruit formation.
If tomato bushes are planted too close together, this may also explain why flowering occurs without ovary formation. Due to lack of water or disease, the plant becomes weakened and unable to form ovaries.
Now we will consider tips on what to do for the summer resident in order to avoid any of the above situations, leading to the absence of an ovary on tomatoes, and, accordingly, to a complete loss of the crop.
Lack of pollination. If you grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, be sure to do everything so that pollinating insects have completely free access to the crop during flowering. Do not use pesticides before flowering, and even more so during it. Do not plant insect repellent plants nearby. If non-flying weather for insects is established in the yard for a long time, shake the tomato bushes thoroughly on a more or less dry day - this should help. Some summer residents choose a more laborious, but especially reliable method of pollination - transferring pollen from flower to flower with a brush. Well, a 100% guarantee of the formation of an ovary will be given to you bred by breeders hybrid varieties that do not require pollination at all.
Temperature jumps. It is important to know that the ovary forms on tomatoes at a comfortable temperature of 20-25 ° C. Those who grow tomatoes in a greenhouse should adhere to these indicators. To prevent the plant from having to experience the stress of facing temperatures much lower than comfortable temperatures, do not plant seedlings too early when the air temperature is likely to drop. Also avoid watering the garden beds. cold water... Unfortunately, tomatoes cannot be protected from the hot air.
Thickening, lack of moisture, disease. Do not plant bushes close to each other and remove excess trunks. Do not allow the soil to dry out for a long time. Treat seeds before planting with fungicides or buy already treated seeds.
Nutrient imbalance. Tomatoes are very fond of feeding, but it is important to ensure that too much nitrogen does not enter the garden with the fertilizer mixture, as this can make flowering meaningless. Pay special attention to the introduction of ash and superphosphate into the soil.
Now you know what to do when the tomatoes are blooming but the ovary is gone. By taking the above tips into account, you will greatly increase your chances of getting a large tomato crop.
It has been proven that you can get a really good harvest of tomatoes only in a greenhouse. Unfortunately, sometimes sheltered tomato growers encounter unexpected difficulties that almost never occur in open beds. The topic of this review is devoted to one of these problems, namely: the absence of ovaries in greenhouse tomatoes.
In fact, there are not so many reasons why tomatoes grown in a greenhouse do not set well, and all of them, in one way or another, are associated with a violation of agricultural technology. Correctly and quickly making a "diagnosis", and even better - initially creating in a greenhouse optimal conditions for culture, you can get rid of the problem quite easily.
The essence of the greenhouse is that the light-permeable material that covers the bed absorbs sunlight, converts it into heat and stores it inside the greenhouse, keeping the temperature there constant. It is due to the preservation of a stable microclimate that the plants inside the greenhouse are able to develop rapidly. 
Protecting crops from wind, precipitation and pests is an additional advantage of the greenhouse, but its main purpose is still in the correct thermoregulation, which allows you to create the temperature, lighting and humidity that are most suitable for a given type of plant inside.
Did you know? According to one of the versions, the first greenhouse, or rather, a covered greenhouse, was created in the middle of the 13th century in Cologne by Albert Bolshtedt, also known as Albert Magnus, who made such a gift to the city in honor of the visit of the anti-king of Germany Wilhelm II. Such a discovery cost the great German scientist excommunication: the Holy Inquisition considered the greenhouse an encroachment on the divinely established change of seasons and forbade such "sacrilege".
Despite the fact that due to the accumulation of heat during the day and its release at night, the air inside the greenhouse, as a rule, does not overheat above the set maximum, control over temperature indicators is still necessary. The point is that on different stages In the development of tomatoes, different requirements are imposed on the amount of heat, and therefore it is precisely by regulating the temperature in the greenhouse that it is possible to ensure intensive growth of seedlings, and active fruit setting, and their rapid ripening.
Temperature indicators for growing tomatoes in a greenhouse at different stages of the growing season are shown in the table:
As for the soil, during the entire growing season of tomatoes, it should not warm up to more than + 25 ° C, and cool below + 13 ° C, otherwise the development of the plant stops.
Finally, it is important to know that it is at the initial stage of flowering that tomatoes react very painfully to a sharp change in temperature during the day. This circumstance largely explains the fact that it is best to grow them in a greenhouse, where such differences usually do not occur.
Violation of the microclimate in the greenhouse, including that expressed in an unacceptable change in temperature, during the period of active flowering of tomatoes prevents the formation of ovaries, primarily because in such conditions normal pollination of the flower becomes difficult or completely impossible, and not being pollinated, the flower simply falls off.
Important! Tomatoes are self-pollinated plants. However, for the formation of the ovary, it is necessary that the pollen from the anther falls on the pistil of the same flower or from the neighboring one, from the nearest branch or another bush growing nearby.
It is in greenhouse tomatoes that pollination problems arise especially often, since there are no two main factors that ensure the flow of this process in an open bed: the movement of air masses and pollinating insects. In this situation, it is critically important that the pollen on the flowers is as light and volatile as possible, and the anthers themselves develop correctly, do not deform and open up in time.
There are 3 main reasons that negatively affect the quality of pollen:
If you adjust the microclimate, as well as provide the tomatoes with regular ventilation, using the light breeze inside the greenhouse as a natural pollinator, there are usually no problems with fruit setting on tomatoes. The fact that pollination has occurred can be judged by the change appearance flower: its petals are noticeably bent back. But in cases where tomatoes are grown in homemade greenhouses, where there is no automated control over temperature and humidity indicators, it makes sense to additionally use the artificial pollination procedure. 
Depending on the size and configuration of the garden bed, this can be done in three different ways:
Tomatoes, unlike many other crops, do not change the requirements for air humidity throughout their entire development cycle. The optimal indicator for them is 60–65%. We have already mentioned why too humid air inside the greenhouse is dangerous for flowering tomatoes, however, insufficient humidity also negatively affects the normal development of the bush, and therefore should not be allowed.
Important! The temperature and humidity in the greenhouse are related indicators: the warmer the air, the more moisture it can hold. In addition, the level of humidity is inversely proportional to the tightness of the greenhouse or the intensity of its ventilation.
Too dry air in the greenhouse is the first reason for the defeat of plants by a tick, and this, in turn, leads to the fact that the ovaries are not formed, and the formed ones crumble.
Exactly because of this reason experienced gardeners try to slightly reduce the humidity in the greenhouse during the period of active flowering and pollination of tomatoes (including by increasing ventilation, which further stimulates the pollination process), and immediately after the appearance of ovaries, humidify the air in the greenhouse again. For this, the bushes are even recommended to be sprayed with water, which is almost never done when growing tomatoes in open ground.
However, it should be borne in mind that any moisture-increasing procedures should be carried out in the morning so that the plants become completely dry by nightfall, otherwise the likelihood of fungal infections on tomatoes increases. 
Finally, indicators of air and soil moisture should not be confused: for good flowering and fruiting tomatoes, it is necessary that the soil is always moistened by 80-85%.
Even with the creation of an optimal microclimate in the greenhouse, it is impossible to grow a good harvest from low-quality seeds. Many summer residents in the old-fashioned way prefer to plant tomatoes from seeds collected with their own hands from the fruits of last year's collection, sincerely believing that they are "proven", and therefore the best.
Unfortunately, in reality this is not entirely true, since seed material is an excellent preservative for various diseases (bacterial, fungal and viral), and in conditions of limited areas that are used on personal household plots, planting the same crops in a permanent place is just and leads to the fact that by the end of the season a large amount of dangerous microflora accumulates on the garden bed, which subsequently enters the seeds.
For this reason, it is better to buy seeds for planting, and preferably from proven and reputable producers.
Important! Poor or absent germination is the main, but not the only indicator of poor quality seeds. An infected seed can germinate, but subsequently such a plant will hurt itself and, in addition, infect its neighbors in the garden with a dangerous pathogen.
To avoid such a danger, seeds, even purchased ones, are usually subjected to serious pre-planting preparation, which includes disinfection (dressing). An exception to this rule is the products of leading European companies that carry out all the necessary measures with seed material before packaging it. Such seeds are sown dry, immediately after they are removed from the package. They cost, as a rule, dozens of times more expensive than domestic counterparts, but they give a guaranteed result - both in terms of germination and in terms of resistance to diseases and other unfavorable factors.
Not every summer resident can afford to grow tomato seedlings on their windowsill, so many people prefer to buy ready-made planting material, especially since it is quite inexpensive.
The problem is that such a product is not always of high quality. 
There may be several reasons for this:
It should also be borne in mind that not all tomatoes are equally well suited for growing under film, and therefore the last of the above arguments is very important to take into account. So, for example, there are hybrids for which problems with pollination are practically not typical, but they are very painful to tolerate cold and sudden changes in temperature. It is them that are recommended to be grown in a greenhouse.
Did you know? The world's largest tomato was grown on his plot by a Minnesota farmer in 2014. The recorded weight of the record holder, named Big Zach, is 8.41 pounds, which corresponds to approximately 3 kg 815 g!
In turn, they are not very suitable for a greenhouse:In order for the fruits on tomato bushes to be well tied and subsequently quickly and evenly formed, in addition to using high-quality planting material and creating an optimal microclimate in the greenhouse, professional farmers must carry out a number of additional agrotechnical measures. 
The first of these activities is to stimulate fruit formation. You can achieve an increase in the yield different ways... Some of them are incompatible with the concept of organic farming, and therefore conduct them on your own summer cottage undesirable and even unsafe, but there are also completely harmless, from an environmental point of view, techniques.
Fertilizing tomatoes with organic and mineral fertilizers should be carried out several times per season, but the trick is that if at the initial stage of the growing season the plant needs a full complex of nutrients, then after the beginning of flowering, it is very important to exclude the nitrogen component from mineral supplements or at least reduce it to a minimum.
Important! An excess of nitrogen in the soil stimulates the development of green mass, but prevents the formation of buds and the formation of ovaries.
The optimal mineral "cocktail" for a tomato garden in a greenhouse (based on 10 liters of water):
To increase the efficiency of feeding, 1 tbsp is sometimes also added to the prepared composition. l. sodium humate.
In addition to root dressing, spraying also helps to stimulate the formation and retention of ovaries.
For these purposes, the following are used, in particular. mineral fertilizers(concentration is also indicated based on 10 liters of water):
If all the above preparations cannot be purchased, the classic composition for spraying tomatoes in a greenhouse to strengthen the ovaries is a mixture of 10 g of manganese sulfate, 3 g of boric acid, 2 g of copper sulfate and 2 g of zinc sulfate per 10 liters of water.
Bread yeast is often used to feed tomatoes, but experts warn against this practice.
Important! Yeast itself is not a fertilizer, it only catalyzes certain chemical processes in the soil, in particular, stimulates the development of organic matter and suppresses (due to the production ethyl alcohol) reproduction of some fungi. However, the unnaturally rapid saturation of the soil with organic matter under the influence of yeast just as quickly leads to the depletion of the earth.
Two more techniques to improve the yield of tomatoes in the greenhouse are hilling and mulching.
Contrary to the popular belief that hilling is a technology for caring for plants grown exclusively in the open field, this procedure is especially important for greenhouse crops. The fact is that it is in the conditions high humidity and constant heat, the green mass begins to actively develop, while the stems retain their original sizes. In order for a lush bush on a thin leg not to break, it must be dug with earth as high as possible at the base. It also stimulates the development of the root system, and strong and strong roots are the key to good nutrition and, as a result, a good harvest.
Hilling is carried out exclusively on wet soil, so the day before, the soil should be watered abundantly, and then, armed with a small hoe, very carefully so as not to damage the roots, paddle a hill of loose earth 10-12 cm high to the base of the bush along its entire circumference. 
During the season, hilling of greenhouse tomatoes is carried out 2-3 times, and the first procedure should be carried out about a month after planting the seedlings in a permanent place.
Covering the soil around the bushes with a dense layer of organic matter (straw, peat, hay, grass cuttings or sawdust), called mulching, is necessary in order to maintain the looseness and moisture of the earth, as well as block the growth of weeds and save yourself from the need for regular weeding, which in the greenhouse, due to the limited space, is especially inconvenient to do.
Lack of ovaries on greenhouse tomatoes is a common problem, but easily solvable. It is only important to know the basic rules for growing this crop in greenhouses and follow all the agrotechnical techniques used for this.
