If the owners have plans to equip tracks on their suburban area or a site around a private city house, you will inevitably have to make a decision on what material to do this better and more economically. Today, paving slabs of various colors and configurations have become a fairly popular coating used everywhere.
However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially during transportation losses are possible, which means that buying tiles with a margin will also be unnecessary expenses. Therefore, many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount at the same time.
It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for an option that is suitable for the pattern and color.
If the decision is made to do self-production paving slabs, then you need to be prepared for a rather laborious work. However, the result obtained from her will surpass all expectations, when the paths or area near the house will have exactly the look that the owners thought of when developing landscape design their possessions.
The advantage of home-made is that you can independently create an exclusive version of the tile, which is not produced either on an industrial scale, or in general, or by anyone else.
In the process of developing your own tile option, there is always the opportunity to experiment with colors and even molds, since molds for casting can also be made independently.
In the event that the store did not find a tile of the desired configuration, or it was found, but it has a too high price, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its production yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in an amount of several pieces, and with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be needed for the improvement of paths and areas on the site.
paving slabs
For this, only a few copies of finished tiles of any color are purchased, according to which the forms are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern, or a stone that you like with its outlines, can be used as an initial sample.
Matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to make, but already during the production of tiles, the work will go much faster.
To make a form, you will need a formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting a matrix.
The formwork is made larger than the size of the original sample by 20 ÷ 30 mm in height and 12 ÷ 15 mm in width. It should be borne in mind that the paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35 ÷ 60 mm. A plywood box is suitable as a formwork, cardboard box or any other material capable of withstanding the casting of a plastic mold compound. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound, or from a silicone sealant.
In the assortment of hardware stores, you can find several types of compound specially designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stone and paving slabs. One of the most demanded of them can be called the domestic composition "Silagerm 5035", as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics... The molding composition is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two parameters of hardness - 30 and 40 units. according to Shor's table. Its main indicators are shown in the table
| Hardness 30 ± 3 | Hardness 40 ± 3 | |
|---|---|---|
| Time of formation of a surface film after contact of components with air, (min) no more. | 45 ÷ 100 | 45 ÷ 100 |
| Viability (min), no more. | 60 ÷ 120 | 60 ÷ 120 |
| 3.0 ÷ 4.5 | 3.5 ÷ 5.0 | |
| 450 ÷ 600 | 400 ÷ 600 | |
| Shrinkage (%), no more. | 1 | 1 |
| Viscosity (cps). | 3000 ÷ 3500 | 3000 ÷ 3500 |
| Density (g / cm³), no more. | 1.07 ± 0.02 | 1.07 ± 0.02 |
The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:
If a large amount of a mixture is being prepared, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer nozzle, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. The drill when mixing the mass is turned on at low speed, otherwise the composition will turn out with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not completely used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to exclude contact with air.
This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.
paving slabs brick
The silicone compound can also be two-component, packaged in buckets, and requires preparation according to the instructions (generally similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as a sealant. You need to buy it as much as it takes to make the mold, since after opening the package, it immediately begins to set. Therefore, the factory packaging of one-component silicone should be opened after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. As a lubricant, ordinary grease is most often used.
A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, it is also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. The thickness above the top of the original should also be 8 ÷ 10 mm.
If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.
To distribute the silicone over the formwork, a spatula or brush is used, which are dipped in a soapy solution prepared in advance.
A thick layer of silicone dries much longer than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the poured layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare a tile mold in advance, for example, by dedicating winter time so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for the summer, since it is better to work with the cement from which the paving slabs will be made in the warm season or, at least, at a positive temperature.
When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and well washed with grease. Next, you can start making tiles.
The main parameters of a standard silicone one-component sealant are shown in the table:
| The main indicators of the material | Normalized values | Test results |
|---|---|---|
| Time of formation of a surface film after extrusion of the sealant from the tube (min) no more. | 30 | 5 ÷ 25 |
| Viability (h), no more. | 8 | 6 ÷ 8 |
| Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less | 0.1 | 0.4 ÷ 0.6 |
| Elongation at break (%), not less. | 300 | 400 ÷ 600 |
| Resistance to flow (mm), no more. | 2 | 0 ÷ 1 |
| Water absorption by weight (%) no more. | 1 | 0.35 ÷ 0.45 |
| Density (g / cm³), no more. | 1200 | 1100 ÷ 1200 |
| Durability, conditional years, not less. | 20 | 20 |
It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to engage in the manufacture of matrices on their own, then it is quite possible to purchase it in a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths in the suburban area may not differ at all from the neighbors.
When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy a plastic mold (without special need, which will be discussed below). Better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.
Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently make. Therefore, further methods will be considered that allow you to make it using available tools. Of course, special forms are indispensable, and they can be made according to the instructions presented above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be nice to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, it is quite possible to cast tiles on a small scale without it.
Square tiles can be called traditional. It does not go out of fashion, as it gives the paths austerity and accuracy. It is especially important to use this tile option for decorating the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | In this case, a plastic mold with a size of 300 × 300 mm and a thickness of 30 mm is used for the manufacture of tiles. The embossed pattern of this version of the matrix is called "Californian shagreen". Plastic molds are convenient in that they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during the laying of the mortar, but it is more difficult to extract the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. To make the mold last as long as possible, and it would be easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with grease before pouring the solution. |
 | To mix the solution required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg. |
 | In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, usual tap water 0.5 liters, powder red color 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml. |
 | To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enamel bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, as the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile can change. |
 | Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master has chosen such a mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - the sand and cement are pre-mixed. |
 | So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer attachment. |
 | The next step, in a separate container, are mixed until homogeneous water, dry dye and plasticizer. |
 | As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained. |
 | The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture. |
 | All components are thoroughly mixed with a mixer - this process should be carried out for at least 3 ÷ 5 minutes. |
 | After mixing, you should get a fairly thick, viscous coarse-grained mass. It will acquire the necessary density in the process of laying it out in a mold and tamping it. |
 | Next, the resulting mixture is laid out in a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is put into the matrix. |
 | The mass must be distributed as uniformly as possible in shape by lifting it and shaking the matrix. |
 | Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first spread with a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with a solution, it must be carefully compacted by pressing it with a trowel. Pay particular attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled. |
 | Further, the matrix is “shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and does not form completely flat surface. Air bubbles will emerge from the solution when shaken. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air ceases to come out completely. When tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fillings - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if the molded products are made for only one track, then it will be unprofitable to buy or make a vibrating table on your own. The mold is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and can change upward in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally. |
 | After the required period of time has elapsed, the matrix is turned over, and the tile is carefully removed from it. |
 | If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the mold in order for the product to lag behind it more easily. |
 | The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, since it must completely dry out and gain strength. For this, the tiles are placed on the edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of the required strength, with the possibility of applying the full load on the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after production. |
The original design of the playgrounds and paths is the laying of wooden round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well and is subject to gradual decay and damage from various insects. Concrete tiles, imitating a cut of wood, will be an excellent substitute for natural material.
| Illustration | Brief description of the performed operation |
|---|---|
 | This very original version paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from mortars of different colors. It is somewhat more difficult to make it than a one-color one, since the work will have to be carried out extremely carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called "pine cut" because it mimics the cut round timber from a tree trunk. The inner part has a beige color and relief of annual rings, while the outer frame repeats the pattern of hardened pine bark. |
 | For the manufacture of such products, a polyurethane flexible form is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have the required rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which in the future will help to shake the solution after filling out the form. Shaking a flexible die filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult. |
 | To get a core with "annual rings", one such tile will require white cement 100 ÷ 150 g, sand of an average fraction - 300 ÷ 350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20 ÷ 25 ml. and 200 ÷ 250 ml. water. |
 | Water, color and plasticizer are combined in one container and mix well. |
 | Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All components are well mixed until smooth. A small amount of water can be added if necessary. |
 | The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture. |
 | The mass is laid out in the middle of the mold, previously coated with wax grease. It may seem that there is too little of it, but this is a misleading impression, since when distributing the mixture, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only along the inner part of the mold, which imitates the core of the round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side that separates the middle part of the "round timber" from the improvised "bark". |
 | The solution must be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed with a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. It is impossible to dilute the mixture, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid bottom, and spoil the entire intended effect of the tile. |
 | Since there is not much mixture in the matrix, the mold after the initial distribution is moved back and forth on the table surface and gently shaken. |
 | Next, the mass is again spread with a spatula and pressed firmly against the mold. |
 | After that, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allotted for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above. |
 | The next step is to prepare a solution for filling the frame of the round timber core with "bark". For the mixture intended for the formation of this layer, and the entire main part of the tile, you need to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 g, brown color 60 ÷ 70 g, sand coarse fraction 3.5 ÷ 4 kg. |
 | Sand and cement are well mixed with a mixer. Then, a solution of water, dye and plasticizer is prepared separately. |
 | Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, some or all of the remainder of the solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly. |
 | Using a trowel, the mixture is poured into the matrix. First, it fills the edges of the form, which will imitate the bark of a tree. |
 | Then, the mixture is laid out on the entire plane of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The shape needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue, one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, vibrating movements are produced. |
 | Then, the mixture is compacted again with a trowel, continuing to distribute it. |
 | The mold, filled with the mixture, continues to be vibrated until its surface of the mortar is even and smooth. It should fill in the entire embossed pattern on the sidewalls of the die. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden. |
 | After 24 hours, the matrix is gently inverted. |
 | Then, carefully remove the form from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high. |
 | The finished tile should completely dry out and gain strength, this will take at least 2-3 days. When dry, the product will acquire a lighter shade, therefore, if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color. However, it must be borne in mind that too much dye makes the solution less stable. |
 | If it is decided to make a mold for such a tile on your own, then as a basis it is necessary to take natural round timber from any tree you like in texture, with a well-defined structure of hardened bark. Before pouring silicone or a compound in the process of making a matrix, it is necessary to process the sample by deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not work. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small side will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer pouring. Once the tiles have been laid, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can also carefully fill it yourself with a trowel or ordinary cement composition |
Another affordable way equip garden paths- this is filling them with concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device, it is quite possible to quickly ennoble not only narrow paths, but also entire grounds.
These instructions can figure out how to properly prepare the space for the tracks, and how to use the stencil. In addition, attention will be paid to how the concrete surface can be decorated.
paving slabs cobweb
| Illustration | Brief description of the performed operation |
|---|---|
 | For such work, you will need to prepare from the tools: - building level; - large and small spatula; - Master OK; - bayonet and shovel; - pump sprayer; - a container for mixing a solution or a concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable for delivering the mixture to the place of pouring. After the familiarization with the work process has been carried out, each master can replenish the list with tools convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the presented list. |
 | From the materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tiles multi-colored; - black polyethylene for flooring; - slag or fine crushed stone. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that from one 50 kg bag of cement, 6 ÷ 7 slabs with a size of 600 × 600 mm and a thickness of 60 mm can be obtained. This list can be supplemented with curbs, since on an unenclosed area the track will not last long - the edges will begin to collapse. |
 | A few words must be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones, dividing the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after pouring concrete into it and building up its strength, not separate stones are formed, but a solid slab, divided by gaps in the upper part only by ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides? the mold should have two technological holes in which the handles are fixed, which will help to remove the stencil from the set concrete without any problems. |
 | In order for the path to serve for a long time and not overgrow with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for its filling. For this, first of all, the fertile soil layer is removed from the marked area, approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm in depth. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic wrap on top of it, which will not allow the germinating grass to break out. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some people save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If done conscientiously, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again. |
 | If a narrow path is laid, then it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If it is planned to protect the path with curb stones, then they can be installed after the formation of the path. |
 | Next, a stencil is placed on the prepared place, processed from the inside with machine oil using a brush. In order to save mortar, as well as increase the strength of the created slab and its kind of reinforcement, crushed stone of a coarse fraction can be laid in the inner space of the mold. |
 | The next step is to mix the cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a suitably sized container. The concrete mixture should be compiled in this way: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 gr. plasticizer and, if desired, added dye. |
 | If 5 ÷ 6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is kneaded in the following proportions: 250 grams of cement must be prepared for 50 kg of cement. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine gravel, 6 buckets of clean river sand. So much water is added to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. A concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle such a volume of solution. m. To adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, you need to proportionally reduce the composition. If colored tiles are made, then it is permissible to add color in the amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be. |
 | The laid form is filled with the ready-made solution. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire stencil space. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners. |
 | The solution is distributed with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed blade, the mass can be easily placed in the corners under the stencil lintels. It is better to put more mixture than required than not report, as the excess can be easily removed with a trowel. |
 | The mortar is smoothed over the top of the stencil with a wide spatula. The excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surfaces of the future tiles to perfect smoothness, as its durability and durability will depend on this. |
 | After waiting 20-30 minutes, until the solution sets, the stencil is removed from the tile, grasping the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done extremely carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet completely hardened, and there is a high probability of damaging one of the corners of the tile with an awkward movement. |
 | The result should be such a concrete slab. |
 | The mold removed from the previous slab is placed next to it, observing a gap of approximately 10 mm. Then, the stencil is checked building level for evenness, and, if necessary, in one or two corners, make a sand bed or a support from flat stone or ceramic tiles. |
 | Further, the process is repeated, that is, rubble is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution, which is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed. |
 | If the path is framed by the borders already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the plates and the borders are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with seeds of a special lawn grass, which rises by only 30 ÷ 50 mm. |
 | The gaps between the plates can be left empty. However, it should be borne in mind that over time they will be clogged with soil, in which weed seeds may appear, and it can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the slabs. |
 | If desired, in the process of manufacturing such a coating, it can be decorated with broken ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the mortar that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is smoothed again with a spatula. |
 | If you want to add color to the garden plot, then the tiles can be made multi-colored by filling the stencil cells with solutions to which different colors have been added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting tracks will always cheer up. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three molds for pouring. This will make the work more effective, since a solution of the same color can be filled in areas in several stencils at once. |
When starting work on arranging paths in this way, it is imperative to inquire about the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all work may go down the drain if heavy rain suddenly falls on the very first night after the formation of the paths.
The stencil will greatly facilitate the work on the arrangement of the site. Although this form is quite expensive, but having only two or three such matrices, you can quickly lay paths and improve the sites throughout the territory without the involvement of third-party craftsmen.
Another important point... When purchasing ready-made tiles, you should remember that laying it correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if it is not possible to make the paving on your own, you will have to invite specialists and pay them an amount for the work, which, at least, will be equal to the cost of the tile itself.
The stencil will not allow you to make gross mistakes. Even without any experience in this area, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased accuracy will be manifested, and the beginner master himself mobilizes all his abilities and skills.
The manufacture of paving slabs is a simple process that is quite feasible in a home workshop.
The equipment that will be used for the production of tiles can be selected at an affordable cost, the material is also inexpensive. Most expensive item that you will need to buy in preparation for the manufacture of tiles is a concrete mixer.
Let's take a closer look at what will need to be purchased by those who decide to make tiles at home:
After the line for the production of tiles is formed, you can purchase raw materials which will go directly to home production:
It is important to prepare the molds correctly before the start of the production process. To do this, you need to lubricate the selected forms. special grease so that further stripping takes place without problems.
Among other things, lubrication can increase the life of the plastic mold by several hundred cycles. An important nuance is that it will be necessary to wash the forms from grease after stripping, in anticipation of the next cycle.
Theoretically, the lubricant can be prepared independently from engine oil and water, but the proportions must be ideal, otherwise the lubricant can ruin the entire batch of tiles.
If the grease turns out to be too greasy, then there may be sinks in the finished tile. If the grease content is insufficient, then problems may arise during further stripping.
Molds for the production of tiles can be made by hand. In ours you can read about how to do this.
Before making concrete mortar directly, it is important to prepare a concrete mixer. Rinse the concrete mixer inside with plain water. For the production of tiles, they usually use semi-wet concrete therefore it is important that the walls of the concrete mixer are damp.
The further strength of the concrete and the holding period of the blanks in the molds depend on how wet the concrete will be. The moisture in the walls will not only ensure good mixing, but also help prevent premature contamination of the inside of the mixer with mortar.
Next, we prepare dye for concrete and plasticizer... The approximate proportion of the plasticizer in the total mass of dry concrete mortar is 0.5%. Approximate marking of the ratio of concrete mixture to plasticizer - 40 liters per 200 g.
The plasticizer must not be added to concrete in a dry state.
It is necessary to dilute 200 g of raw materials in 1 liter of very hot water (80-85 ° C). The plasticizer must dissolve well, the formation of sediment is unacceptable. Therefore, water temperature and uniform mixing are very important.
Prepare pigment dye for the future concrete mortar. The dye is no more than 2% of the total composition of the dry mixture. Considering that the cost of the dye is quite high, everyone is trying to save on its consumption, thereby reducing the cost of tiles. But, on how high-quality and intensive the staining of concrete was, it depends appearance tiles for a long time. Therefore, you should not save, otherwise the tile will lose its rich shade in a year.
To produce saving dye and do not harm the color of the finished product, you can use the double fill method. This method involves filling plastic molds with a colored solution about half and instantly pouring colorless concrete up to the edges of the molds. This method of pouring will not only reduce the consumption of dye by 2 times, but also increase the strength of finished products.
About 800 g of the dye is thoroughly mixed in 3 liters of water at a temperature of 45-50 ° C. The dye is added in portions; the formation of a precipitate is also unacceptable. Even a small lump of dye sediment that ends up on the face of the finished tile will ruin the entire appearance of the finished product. The sink formed due to the sediment of the dye also affects the strength of the tile, significantly reducing its market value.
After the molds and the concrete mixer have been prepared, the dye and plasticizer have been prepared, we proceed to the direct mixing of the concrete mixture. In the manufacture of concrete mortar for the production of tiles, there are certain nuances- this is a very low moisture content for concrete.
The further strength of the finished product will depend on the ratio of the amount of water and concrete. The moisture in the mortar should be 30% of the total cement content. Thus, for 3 buckets of cement, you will need 2 buckets of water and this is the volume with dye and plasticizer. Such a solution is not easy to knead, which is why a concrete mixer with wet walls is needed.
Pour thoroughly mixed mixture of even color into previously prepared forms. We place the workpieces on the vibrating table. It is necessary to select the number of workpieces installed on it in proportion to your table. Weakness is unacceptable in the table springs, but overloading them harms them.
Vibration intensity table entirely depends on the number of workpieces. The concrete mixture in the molds on the switched on table begins to melt. Free spaces will be formed in the blanks, which will need to be filled. The period of vibration of the forms on the table is approximately 5 minutes.
When a white film appears on the blanks, this will mean that the process was successful and all excess air has been removed from the concrete mixture. Then the forms can be removed.
In a room out of direct sunlight, the tiles dry out for about during the day... This quick drying is due to the low moisture content and the presence of a plasticizer in the composition, which, among other things, increases the strength of concrete tiles.
We produce demoulding of finished products and don't forget to rinse the molds. Plain water forms for paving slabs, most likely, cannot be washed, but saline solution a high salt content will be able to help in this process.
A few more details on the video:
The technology for the production of paving slabs is quite simple. You can do it at home. For the manufacture of paving slabs, you will need equipment that is reasonably affordable. Judge for yourself, the most expensive thing you have to buy is a concrete mixer. The vibrating table can be made by hand. Tile molds will have to be bought, but today they are not as expensive as they used to be. Good shape made of quality material can be purchased at a price of $ 1 apiece. The price of the form is determined by the quality of the material, the size and design style of the form itself. For complete set line, you need to purchase a picking shovel, a good metal bucket for 10 liters, flights that will be filled with ready-made tiles, rubber gloves for safe work. When you have a complete line for the production of paving slabs, you can purchase and deliver raw materials for the production of:
The production cycle itself can be divided into several stages:
Preparation of molds before the manufacture of vibrocast products. Paving slabs are made using simple equipment:
Here detailed instructions for the manufacture of concrete products by vibration casting. At the beginning of the production cycle, it is necessary to prepare the molds for pouring. It is better to use plastic forms. The technology provides for the nuances of the shaping and demoulding of vibro-cast products. Before manufacturing, we lubricate the molds with a special lubricant for high-quality stripping. Also, the lubricant adds the service life of the forms up to 500 cycles and more. It is better to wash oiled molds after stripping before the next pouring. This is also very important. For beginners, it is better to purchase a special lubricant. If desired, you can make the lubricant yourself. But here it is important to clearly guess the proportions. A plastic mold lubricant is done like this. Dilute 50 grams of engine oil with 1.5 liters of water. It is necessary to shake such a mixture very well and for a long time. Experiment very carefully with the proportions of the lubricant. It is important for you to choose the ideal balance of fat content. Too greasy grease will wash over your entire batch. After a very greasy lubrication, sinks are obtained in the tiles. Such paving slabs are more like a shell rock. Low fat content in the lubricant will not give the desired effect when stripping. After the molds have been lubricated, the concrete can be prepared.
Preparation of compound components for concrete preparation. Before preparing the concrete mixture, it is required to prepare the concrete mixer itself. Rinse the concrete mixer out of the nutria with a bucket of water. Be sure to pour out the water. The walls where the concrete will be mixed must be damp. For the manufacture of paving slabs, it is necessary to make half-wet concrete. Its strength and duration of exposure of products in molds depends on this. Wet walls will mix the concrete composition better and will not allow the concrete mixer to become heavily clogged with mortar deposits. Next, you should prepare a plasticizer and concrete dye. The plasticizer should be 0.5% of the amount of all components of the solution in dry form. For 40 liters of concrete, 200 g is needed. plasticizer. In no case should a dry plasticizer be added. It must be prepared first. We dilute with 200g. plasticizer in 1 liter of hot water 70-80 degrees Celsius. The water must be hot so that the plasticizer dissolves well. Stir well into hot water from a measuring cup, add plasticizer powder in small portions. The sediment must not be allowed, it must dissolve well. Next, we prepare a pigment dye for concrete. The percentage of the dye should be at least 2% of all dry components. If you make high-quality paving slabs, you cannot save on dye. You should have a rich concrete color that will keep its shade for years. Pigment dye is quite expensive and many are trying to keep the cost of production by saving on plasticizer costs. But this approach is unjustified. After a year or two, the tiles will lose their color. Two years after the rain, the wet tile will look like new, but when it is dry, the color is almost invisible. To justifiably save dye, it is better to use the two-layer fill technology. Fill the molds halfway with colored concrete and immediately colorless. This tile will be even stronger. Only the intervals between filling layers should not exceed 20 minutes. This way you can save 2 times expensive dye. Dilute 800g of dye in a 3-liter jar with water at a temperature of 40-50 degrees. Stir well and add in small portions. In no case should precipitation be allowed in the dye. This kind of sediment can spoil your tiles. A small lump of dye sediment in the face of the tile makes a sink. So paving slabs can lose their presentation and strength due to poorly diluted dye. If the pigment dye is poorly diluted, it will not give the tiles the desired color.
Technological process for the manufacture of vibrocast tiles. When our molds are lubricated, the plasticizer and pigment dye are diluted, the concrete mixer is moistened, concrete can be hammered. The technology of manufacturing paving slabs has its own characteristics for the preparation of concrete. It is a low water composition. The strength of concrete products depends on the ratio of cement to water. One has only to add 30% more liquid and the concrete will lose its strength 2 times. Tile mortar, as mentioned above, should be half wet (like wet earth). It may seem too dry to you, but as soon as it gets on the vibrating table, it already seems too wet. This is the kind of trick that awaits you in the process of making paving slabs. Therefore, we add water less than 30% of the volume of cement. 3 buckets of cement takes 2 buckets of water and this is inclusive of plasticizer and dye. This concrete is difficult to mix. For this, the concrete mixer must be pre-moistened. Well, now we turn on the concrete mixer and first of all fill in a measured portion of water without dye and plasticizer. Then add a portion of the cement and mix to get a homogeneous emulsion (people say milk). Then we add screenings and we already have a solution. Mix well and add the pre-diluted components: plasticizer and dye. And we knead all this well until we get a homogeneous mass that is beautiful in color.
This recipe for semi-dry concrete is intended for vibration casting of thin-walled concrete products or for the production of cinder blocks on a homemade machine.
When we have the concrete ready, we fill in the molds and place them on the vibrating table. The number of shapes on the table is playing important role in the intensity of vibration. The table springs should not be too overloaded or too loose. The vibration should be at a certain intensity. As soon as you put the concrete molds on the table and turn on the vibrating table, the magic begins. Dry concrete starts to turn into liquid. More and more space appears in the forms and more should be filled in. It seems that the forms on the vibrating table already contain liquid concrete, but if you turn the form over, its contents do not fall out, but stick tightly to the edges of the form, which means that you are doing everything right. The vibration should last approximately 4-5 minutes. With proper vibration, do not turn off the vibrating table until a white foam appears on the concrete in the form. This indicates that all the air has escaped from the concrete. Then remove the forms and take them to a room that has been replaced by sunlight. The tile dries up in just a day. This is helped by the low water content and the plasticizer, which is included in the composition of the tiles. The plasticizer not only gives elasticity during formation, but also effectively dries and strengthens the strength of the concrete product. The next day, you can do the stripping and you have finished tiles. She needs 5 days to rest before selling. This will give it maximum strength. After stripping the molds, it is necessary to wash the forms, despite the fact that they have been oiled. The concrete is so tenacious that it still leaves marks on the plastic molds. Do not wash them with plain water. It is better to use a lot of salt. Prepare high concentration saline solution in advance. So it is much easier and faster to wash plastic molds for paving slabs.
In order to produce 1 square meter of paving slabs, we need: To make paving slabs, you need to buy equipment.
| Name | Photo | Price |
| Concrete mixer. |  |
The price depends on the volume in liters on average $ 1.5 per liter. Concrete mixer 300 l. will cost $ 450. The larger the volume, the cheaper the price for 1 liter. |
| Vibrating table. |  |
You can do it yourself, it will cost you a maximum of $ 180. A new one will cost from $ 500. I highly recommend making a vibrating table with your own hands, there is nothing complicated there. |
| Forms for the manufacture of paving slabs. |  |
It is better to take forms from good thick-walled plastic. The cost of such forms is from $ 1 per piece. One square meter of "rocky" cover will need 25 pieces. And for a square "brick" you need to buy 50 forms. It all depends on the size of the tiles. |
| Bucket. Shovel. Latex gloves. |  |
Available to everyone. |
To calculate the payback period, we need the following indicators: the cost of equipment in dollars, the productivity of square meters per day, the cost of production in dollars per 1 sq. M. profitability as a percentage (%).
Let's say we want to produce 40 sq. tiles in the form of "rocky" per day. We will need a 300-liter concrete mixer (this will be about 6 mortar stabs) at a cost of $ 450. Homemade vibrating table $ 180. Forms 1 $ * 25 pieces per square meter "rocky" * 40 sq. M. = $ 1000. Bucket, shovel, rubber seals = $ 20. Total expenses for the purchase of equipment are $ 1000 + $ 450 + $ 180 + $ 20 = $ 1650. The sales value of forty squares of the finished product will be 40 sq. M. * $ 7.5 (price for 1 sq. M.) = $ 300. And the cost of tiles is 40 sq. M. * $ 3.2 = $ 128. With an established sales market, the turnover balance (net profit) is $ 300 - $ 128 = $ 172 per day. It is important to note that the cost of production does not include the cost of wages to workers. The plan is designed for one person. This means that you will need to prepare 1000 forms. Preparation can take up to 5 days. For this reason, your real balance per day will be $ 172/5 days = $ 34. Therefore, the fair payback period for the equipment will be: $ 1650 (equipment purchase) / $ 34 (net profit) = 50 days. If you plan to work on weekends, then 50 days / 22 working days = 2.5 months.
In general, the business looks very attractive. Advantages of a business idea: The idea does not require specialized investments to start A high percentage of profitability Simple technological process production Short payback period. Of the minuses, it is worth noting. Business is highly seasonal. Quite a long and boring process of preparing the forms (all forms must be washed from concrete with salt water and treated with lubricant). Anyone can start this business. It can be made both the main and the additional source of income. Also, the production of vibrocast products can be used in order to save money. For example, consider purchasing tiles for installation near your home as an alternative.
If you are on a construction site, then you have probably already acquired a concrete mixer. You will make the table yourself, but you need to buy the forms. In cases of defective products, they can be used for other purposes at the construction site. If you are a very cautious person and not ready for risks, then get a couple of forms and try your hand at meager costs. I assure you everything is working out. Paving slabs it is a demanded product on the market building materials... This is a consumable item. This is the most practical yard cover. For example, when heated, asphalt emits toxic fumes. Concrete cracks at sub-zero temperatures. The mobility of the tile flooring allows you to freely replace worn out areas. Believe in the product you are selling and they will buy from you.
Paving slabs successfully compete with other types of building materials for covering sidewalks, parking lots and squares in cities, paths, recreation areas, access roads to summer cottages and in country houses... The demand for it is growing from year to year. Manufacturers who are sensitive to consumer demands are not limited to the production of the types of paving slabs that are familiar to us, and are bringing to the market more and more of its varieties with unexpected and very interesting characteristics: rubber and polymer sand, luminous, and even tiles with a 3D image applied.
Paving slabs manage to maintain their popularity for a number of reasons:
Paving slabs are produced by vibrocompression and vibration casting. The first production method features high level mechanization and high labor productivity, significant volumes of products. In the production of tiles by the vibrocasting method, manual labor prevails at most enterprises, the products themselves are inferior in characteristics to vibropressed tiles, the service life is shorter. However, its advantage lies in the variety of shapes and colors. With small-piece production by means of vibratory casting, it is not a problem to replace the mold and fulfill an individual order.
On your site, if you have the desire and time, you have to do it yourself. And to compensate for the lack of experience with accuracy, exact adherence to technology and the introduction of a creative start into the design of a recreation area or path.
The more difficult issue is with the production at home. First of all, you need to decide whether you will make tiles only for yourself or will you sell them. "Business plans" of the organization own production paving slabs distributed on the Internet are very far from reality and do not take into account the most obvious things.
Important! For your needs, it is advisable to make tiles at home. It's a matter of economy and quality. The fact is that there are a lot of small producers on the market who do not shun technology violations and the use of low-quality raw materials. Defects will "emerge" in a year or two, when it will be too late to make claims, and there is no one to make any claims. And for yourself you will try to make the best tiles in the world.
The organization of a small production of paving slabs only, at first glance, seems to be a very profitable business. And the main problem for you will be sales - the market is oversaturated and the buyer is very selective. Plus (or rather, this is a big minus for your plans), the situation is not very favorable in the suburban real estate market. A lot of finished objects are "stuck" and are not for sale. No purchases - no new owners of summer cottages and country houses who urgently need to pave paths and platforms. It is hardly advisable to start buying equipment and raw materials without a clear and precise perspective for the sale of the products that you are going to release at your new production facility. While you are pondering this question, let's talk about equipment for the production of paving slabs using the vibratory casting method. For your needs, you need to adjust the production process.
For home production, we need fairly simple equipment and materials for concrete mortar.
Full set necessary equipment consists of vibration tables for pouring and knocking out, a heat chamber and a concrete mixer. In practice, they are often limited only to the pouring table. It is a metal frame to which a movable table with a vibrator is attached. The working plate of the table is fixed with springs (such are used in Zhiguli). A vibrating table is necessary - it provides compaction and degassing of the solution. Without a vibrating table, you will end up with artificial stone, not dense paving slabs. The vibrating table for knocking out has frames on the working movable plate for knocking out finished products. However, you can do without it.
The "canonical" technology of vibration casting provides for the use of a heat chamber to reduce the solidification time of the mixture in a humid environment at elevated temperature... In part, the setting time can be shortened by using warm solutions. The thermal chamber is sometimes replaced with a thermally-treated one - a container in which the water temperature is maintained at 70-80 ° C with the help of heating elements. When producing for one's own needs, the time factor is not critical. Unlike production for sale, when it is necessary to use all the possibilities to accelerate the turnover of forms.
Attention! For the production of a limited volume of tiles, it makes sense to abandon the concrete mixer and confine ourselves to a powerful perforator with a mixer attachment.
However, even with small-piece production, you will need at least one concrete mixer for sale. The second will be needed to make tiles of different colors.
The materials from which the molds are usually made are polypropylene, rubber and plastic. The rubber mold is more durable and can withstand up to 400-450 cycles. Polypropylene ones can withstand about 100, but they are one and a half times cheaper. You will also need molds for curbstone production.
At home, after a few trial batches, you will determine the best proportions for making a mortar. Try using the following first:
This is based on mixing in a concrete mixer. Check the quality of the solution after the end of the cycle so - the solution should look like a granular porridge, you can take it with one movement of the trowel, while the solution does not break up into pieces. For the production of colored products, pigments are added. One batch will require about 0.7 kg of dye, but this value must be checked for the correspondence of the obtained tone to the intended color in the finished product.
All components are loaded into a concrete mixer. Please note that the plasticizer purchased dry must be diluted with water. The pigment is laid at the beginning of the mixing process of the solution.
The molds are placed on a vibrating table and pre-lubricated with special compounds - so they will not be damaged when removing the tiles (during stripping) It is easier and faster to lubricate the molds from an aerosol can. After the completion of mixing, the vibrating table is turned on and the solution is poured into the molds. Within about 4-5 minutes, starting from the moment the molds are filled, the solution is compacted and degassed. Watch for the appearance of foam and do not allow the formed foam to settle. This is a signal that the solution is ready. Overexpose, the composition will begin to exfoliate. Then the vibrating table motor is turned off and the molds are sent to dry.
Very important! Careful attention is required to ensure that the drying forms are in a strictly horizontal position. Otherwise, you will receive a defective batch of tiles that cannot be used for their intended purpose.
It is convenient to use ordinary wooden pallets for storage.
The mixture in molds will dry for at least a day. It largely depends on temperature and humidity. environment... After the mixture has set in the mold, the heaters in the bathroom are turned on and the mold is placed in the water heated to 70-80 ° C for about five minutes. This procedure facilitates the removal (stripping) of the tiles. The removed products cannot be used immediately, they must "rest" for at least a week and gain strength. Organize a covered area to hold the finished product during this time.
Important! Consider the work done only when you washed the molds with brine (a solution of 30 g of table salt in one liter of water), rinsed them with water and put them to dry.
We examined the process of producing paving slabs by vibrocasting at home. It should be noted that another method of production - vibrocompression - is associated with significantly higher costs for the purchase of equipment, first of all, a vibropress. Vibrating press is much more complex and expensive equipment. Yes, and in this case, you cannot do with a thermocouple; you will need to purchase a heat chamber.
Now almost every person has private plot, whether it be a dacha or a residential building, where there are recreation areas, paths, paths, parking lots and other all kinds of places where a person's foot directly steps. It's no secret that in modern society everyone wants to achieve the best, unique design on their site, both in the architecture of the house and in the landscape of the adjacent territory, and this can be achieved only with their own hands and imagination. Now it has become very fashionable to lay out paths and resting places with paving slabs, but not everyone can afford it.
Everyone dreams of beautiful design backyard paths. You can achieve an unusual result by doing paving with your own hands.
This article will show you how to make your own paving slabs.
The manufacturing technology is quite elementary, since you can even make paving slabs yourself at home. In order to make paving slabs yourself, you will need a simple tool:
Compulsory concrete mixers are designed for loading from 40 to 300 kg of concrete mix. Vibrating tables can have almost any size of the working surface.
Don't be intimidated by things like concrete mixer and vibrating table. Now many people build houses with their own hands, and, perhaps, they will give you a concrete mixer for rent, and you can make a vibrating table at home yourself. To do this, you need a 50 * 50 metal corner - use welding to make a table frame. The vibration motor will be a starter from a car, with two massive washers screwed onto the shaft. The holes in the washers must be offset. Vibration can be adjusted by spreading the washers apart. To vibrate the table in a horizontal position, it is necessary to connect the vibration motor to the table legs in a vertical position, the tabletop can be made from chipboard, iron sheet or other handy material yourself.
If for some reason you did not manage to make the vibrating table yourself or it is too difficult for you, there is the simplest option. After you have poured the solution into the mold, place it on a stool or other surface that is flat. Then take a hammer or mallet and create a vibration yourself by knocking on the surface of your stand until bubbles form on the blanks. The appearance of bubbles will mean that there is no more air. So, now that you have all the tools, proceed directly to manufacturing.
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Which is made at enterprises, differs from the one that was made independently, in that at the enterprise it is made in accordance with GOST 17608-91. It must meet very stringent requirements, as it is used not only for home, but also for road surface where there used to be paving stones. Therefore, the tile must have a very high frost resistance, not less than 300 periods of freezing and thawing. Have a strength of at least 40 MPa, moisture absorption - no more than 5% and wear resistance - no more than 0.7 g / cm. To make paving slabs that will not be inferior to the factory ones, it is necessary to treat the selection and quality of the material with great responsibility.
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This house is called vibration casting. Before starting work, it is necessary to select the forms for pouring. The most the best option are plastic molds. You can also make the form yourself. Making shapes with your own hands from various materials at hand, you yourself choose the geometrically most interesting shape for yourself. Before pouring a special grease, it is necessary to lubricate the molds so that later the tiles are easier to reach.
If you haven't found a specialized lubricant, you can make one yourself at home, but be careful: precise proportions are needed here. To make the lubricant yourself, you need to take 50 g of machine oil and dilute with water. This amount of oil is diluted in 1.5 liters of water. This mixture must be shaken with great force for about 40 minutes. I would like to warn you with experiments in the proportions of the lubricant. There is a possibility that the grease will be too greasy and the entire batch of tiles will be discarded. After a very greasy lubrication, the paving slabs look like a shell rock, due to the fact that depressions are formed in it. If the lubricant, on the other hand, is not greasy enough, it is much more difficult to pull the finished tiles out of the molds. Also, the lubricant is used to increase the life of the molds. If you lubricate them well, you can use one tile about 600 times.
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We prepare the dye and plasticizer on our own. The proportion of the plasticizer should be 0.5% of the total dry solution. The plasticizer cannot be added dry, it must be diluted in hot water in a proportion of 200 g / l. The plasticizer must not be diluted in cold water since it won't dissolve. Stir the plasticizer until it is completely dissolved, even the slightest sediment will give craters in the finished product. Next, you need to make a dye solution, its amount should be at least 5% of the total volume of the mixture in dry form. Otherwise, the finished tile will lose color very quickly. The brighter you want to make the product, the more dye you need.
The only drawback in the dye is its price, but we also solve this issue. Pour half-colored concrete and half-unpainted concrete into the mold - this will be even stronger. The dye must also be pre-diluted with warm water until completely dissolved in a 1: 3 ratio. By preparing concrete mix, be careful with water: the consistency of the finished solution with plasticizer and dye should resemble wet sand.
Add water and cement to a concrete mixer, mix until a homogeneous composition, then add granite screenings, mix well until a homogeneous mass. Add the previously diluted plasticizer and dye, stir until a bright, fully colored mass is obtained. Since it is quite simple to do, below is an approximate calculation to make a large volume of tiles. Based on these numbers, you yourself can calculate how much material you need in order to make yourself the required amount of paving slabs for your site.
Consumption of components for manufacturing per 100 square meters with a product thickness of 5.5 cm:
