House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» Tulips love light or shade. Blooming tulips all year round

Tulips love light or shade. Blooming tulips all year round

Tulip is a perennial herbaceous bulbous plant of the Liliaceae family, which during its history has earned enviable popularity in the world of selection and gardening and occupies a prominent place in the list of the most demanded ornamental plants.

History

The homeland of the tulip is Turkey. In the middle of the 16th century, despite all the strictness of export, the flower is transported to the capital of Austria, and then to Holland. English, French, German merchants are fond of growing tulips. In those distant times, they were grown in the gardens of only noble and wealthy people. In Russia, these flowers appear at the time of Peter I.

Symbolism

Many beautiful legends are associated with tulips and symbolic meanings... Delicate and touching, they symbolize love, joy, happiness. The time of flowering tulips is associated with the arrival of spring, holiday and good mood.

Description

The plant fascinates with a variety of varieties. The color of flowers is striking in its color. They can be of the same color (white, yellow, red, purple, etc.), or they can combine several different shades.

The flower shape is bell-shaped, goblet, cupped, lily-shaped.

Goblet Cup-shaped Oval Parrot Lily
Terry Fringed Flower Shapes

By timing, varieties are divided into two types:

  • Early flowering;
  • Late blooming.

The beginning of the growth point is the bulb, from which a straight stem with several leaves and one flower emerges. The fruit is a triangular capsule with triangular, flat, brown seeds.

Tulips grow well in sunny places. Wind protection is essential. In such places, tulips look healthier, brighter, and bloom earlier.

Tulips are grown in group plantings of one or more varieties. Tulips prefer light, loose, rich, moderately moist soils. An important condition for growing is "clean beds", free from weeds.

Landing

The planting of bulbs is carried out in the fall, when tulips end their period of natural biological dormancy. Only healthy bulbs are used for planting. They choose the time before the soil freezes, otherwise the bulbs may not have time to take root.

The landing pattern can be very different. Planting density is maintained up to 15-20 cm, depth up to 10-15 cm. Prepared holes or grooves are thoroughly watered and the bulbs are laid in them with the bottom down. Fall asleep with earth, a layer of 5-10 cm.

Tulips tolerate winter well. In winters with little snow with low temperatures, plantings are covered with insulating organic material - peat, humus, leaves.

Care

Growing tulips is easy. it unpretentious plants requiring little care. They start leaving in the spring. After the snow cover has melted, the plantings are carefully loosened, with dry soil, regular, moderate watering is carried out. Tulips love moisture very much.

During the period of tulip growth, three dressings are carried out using solutions of organic and mineral fertilizers:

  • The first is carried out after the emergence of shoots;
  • The second - during budding;
  • The third - after flowering.

Weeding and loosening are regularly carried out. Blooming tulips do not cut, but break off, leaving as many leaves as possible. After flowering, reduce watering, remove wilted flowers so that the plant does not waste energy on ripening the seeds. After yellowing and wilting of the leaves, the bulbs are dug up. So that the bulbs do not become smaller, the digging procedure is repeated every season.
Before storage, the bulbs are disinfected in a four percent solution of karbofos for the prevention of diseases and protection from pests. Then it is dried in the shade, outdoors, for a week.

Before storage, the bulbs are sorted into large and medium sized ones. At the same time, the children are separated. Storage areas should have low ambient light and good ventilation.

The storage temperature should be around 17-20 degrees C. Under these conditions, the bulbs are stored in open ground.

Reproduction

You can propagate tulips:

  • Seeds;
  • With the help of bulbs.

Seed propagation is used more often by breeders. Reproduction with bulbs is faster and more efficient. For these purposes, bulbs with a diameter of at least 12 cm are selected. It is believed that these are the ones that inherit the main varietal characteristics. Smaller bulbs need to be grown at home before planting in open ground.

Diseases and pests

Tulips can be affected by viral diseases. One of these is variegation, which is manifested by the presence of spots, streaks, stripes on the leaves and petals of flowers. It is very difficult to deal with such diseases. It is important to observe disinfection measures, and if the plant is damaged, it is better to destroy it.

Fungal diseases may occur. These include various types of rot:

  • Root;
  • Gray;
  • White;
  • Soft;
  • Wet;
  • Tobacco necrosis virus known as August disease.

It is also better to remove plants affected by these diseases, and disinfect the planting site and neighboring plants with antifungal drugs. Ash treatment can be applied.

Traps are placed and hung up to protect against pests (bears, scoops, slugs). Against rodents, the bulbs are sprayed with red lead iron and mousetraps are placed.

Many gardeners, seeking to get early shoots of tulips, plant them not in spring, but in autumn. This is a reasonable decision, since staying in cold soil in the bulbs produces substances that contribute to the accelerated development of the plant in spring.

When planting tulips in autumn, it is very important to choose the right time and do all the work correctly. Improper and untimely planting can lead to the death of bulbs in winter or poor seedling quality in spring.

Choosing the best landing time

One of the peculiarities of planting tulips in the fall is that there are no specific calendar dates when this can be done. Roughly gardeners cite the period from September 15 to October 1, and in regions with a warm climate - from September 15 to October 15. But more often, during autumn planting, they are guided not so much by dates as by soil temperature.

When the soil temperature drops to 5 - 7 degrees, you can start planting the bulbs in the ground. You can even more accurately determine this moment by measuring the temperature at a depth of 9 - 11 cm - it should be approximately +10 degrees. Of course, the soil must be sufficiently moist.

It is important to understand that after planting the bulb in the soil, it must take root there, and for this it will take it from three weeks to a month. If the bulb does not have time to take root in the ground before frost, then it can either die or germinate in the spring, but the tulip will be weak and inconspicuous. If planting is too early, then the bulb can not only take root, but also sprout, which will die during the first cold snaps.

Choosing the best place to plant tulips

Tulips love the sun, and therefore the best place for them is a well-lit ridge. If tulips are planted in the shade, they will also grow, but the quality of the stems and buds will decrease.

Tulip bulbs love moderate humidity. Excessive moisture can kill the plant. Therefore, it is important to choose a place where the water will not stand for a long time and soak the roots.

Because of the "puddles" on the ridge, there can be troubles with the wintering of bulbs. The fact is that due to excess moisture, the temperature underground will be lower, and when cold weather sets in, plants may die.

It is better to plant tulips in neutral or slightly alkaline fertilized soil. If the soil is acidic, then it should be limed. Tulips should not be planted in places where there were previously diseased plants, as the infection will spread to new seedlings.

Preparing for landing

Before planting tulips, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work:
  • The bulbs should be sorted out, diseased and sorted into healthy varieties. Diseased plants can become a source of infection for healthy ones, and as a result, the entire shoot will suffer.
  • A month before planting, the place that is allocated for a ridge for tulips must be dug up to a depth of 25 cm and divided so that the tulips can be planted according to varieties.
  • Fertilize the ridge. Fertilizers can be either purchased or homemade, but not fresh manure, as it can cause fungus to develop on the bulbs.
After all the preparation work is completed, and the soil temperature has reached the required value, you can proceed to the planting itself.

How to land correctly

The planting process does not present any difficulty, you only need to follow certain rules:
  1. Planting depth depends on the size of the tulip bulb and the severity of the soil in which you are planting. So, for light soil, these are three diameters of the bulb, and for heavy soil, two diameters.
  2. Large bulbs are planted in rows, the distance between plantings in a row is about 10 cm, and the distance between the rows themselves is about 20 cm. Smaller bulbs can be planted in Dutch style: staggered at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
  3. Due to the different growth of different varieties of tulips, the tall stems of some varieties can block the light of less tall specimens, so planting should be done in tiers. The lowest varieties are planted on the sunny side: this way they get enough light and can fully develop.
  4. Plant tulips carefully so as not to disturb the root of the bulb. You should not press on the bulb so that it goes into the ground better: this way you can imperceptibly damage the root and spoil the future tulip.
  5. After planting, you need to level the ridge so that there are no holes left in the places where the pits were. These holes can collect rainwater, dampening the bulbs and causing them to rot or freeze.
Despite the fact that tulips tolerate cold well, after frost, the ridge can be covered with a layer of mulch. It will help the bulbs to cope with the winter cold and protect the soil from cracking. Peat is suitable as such a substance, which must be distributed over the ridge in a layer of 5 - 7 cm.

Protection of landings from mice

When carrying out all the work on planting the bulbs, you also need to take care of their protection from small rodents. Mice can ruin an entire tulip crop in one winter, so it makes sense to take protective measures against them. Among the known methods of protecting ridges with plantings from rodents, one can distinguish "biological", "chemical" and "physical".

From "biological":

  • landing at the edges of the ridge of hazel grouse
  • landing at the edges of the daffodil ridge
Of the "chemical":
  • treatment of bulbs before planting with Vishnevsky ointment.
  • applying a thin layer of kerosene to the bulbs from a spray bottle.
  • when planting, sprinkle red pepper on the bulbs
  • spraying the ridge with tulips with tincture of valerian roots
From "physical":
  • planting plants in homemade or special containers (for example, the lower halves plastic bottles, special boxes for planting)
  • placement of self-made protective caps over the landing site
The action of "biological" protective agents is based on the dislike of some plants by mice. In this case, bulbous plants are shown that have poisonous bulbs that scare away animals. But this method of protection cannot be called particularly reliable, since mice can crawl around the poisonous roots of hazel grouse and daffodils and get to tulips.

The action of "chemical" remedies is based on the fact that the substances with which the bulbs are treated cause disgust in mice. So, rodents do not like red pepper and will not gnaw the onions on which it is applied.

"Physical" means act as a normal barrier in the path of the animal. Here it is worth considering that not every material is reliable, since mice can gnaw through thin plywood and even wood. It is better to take plastic containers, and it is worth protecting the landings both from below and from above.

Let's sum up

So, when planting tulips in the fall, it is important to remember the following:
  • Planting time is selected based on soil temperature. 5 - 7 degrees is quite a suitable temperature in order to start work.
  • Before planting, the ridge must be dug up by 30 cm and fertilized, and all sick and small bulbs must be selected from the bulbs.
  • Planting is carried out at a depth equal to 2 diameters of the bulb in heavy soil and 3 diameters in light soil, the distance between plants is better to be equal to 10 cm.
  • When planting, you need to take care that high varieties of tulips do not cover the low ones; it is best to plant them in tiers.
  • After disembarking, the ridge must be leveled so that rainwater does not accumulate in the formed holes.
  • After frost, it is good to cover the ridge with a layer of peat in order to additionally protect the plants from freezing during severe frosts in winter.
  • So that the work is not in vain, you also need to take care of protecting the landings from mice. To do this, you can plant the bulbs in containers made of plastic or other durable material, and also process them before planting with kerosene or Vishnevsky's ointment.

    Tulip is a perennial bulbous plant from the lily family that came to us from Central Asia. At the moment, there are 110 types of tulips of various colors: red, yellow, white, purple, purple and even black tulip, and combinations of two, three or more colors are also common. The most fashionable tulip is green, the original contrast of which is created by nature with the help of a green center and edges of colored petals with green veins.

    Tulips were brought to Russia in the 17th century from Holland. The cost of the bulbs was fabulous, so only wealthy people could afford to grow these flowers. There is a legend that flowers are tulips, especially yellow color, bring happiness and good mood, and it is customary to give the girl unopened buds or those that have just begun to open.

    If you adore tulips, you are always looking forward to the arrival of spring and madly want to see all year round on your windowsill, these wonderful flowers, then our article is for you. Today we will talk about growing tulips in an apartment.

    Although it is believed that this flower is quite unpretentious in growing, there are several planting methods for apartment breeding, as well as certain requirements for care during the growing season. Observing them, the result will certainly please you.

    Fundamental rules

    1.Golden rule: buy bulbs from reliable suppliers, selected and healthy planting material will allow you to get blooming tulips easier and faster. Always select the largest available.

    2. The bulb must be peeled from the hard shell. This will allow you at the initial stage to detect possible damage, and "naked" and healthy bulb it will be easier to grow.

    3. All planting material must be kept for about 30 minutes in a warm broth of celandine. Instead of celandine, you can make a weak solution of potassium permanganate - 3-4 crystals will be enough for a liter of warm water.

    4. If planting is planned in a land substrate, do not forget about the mandatory sterilization procedure in order to get rid of pests and larvae in the soil.

    5. Choose the undersized varieties best suited for forcing at home: Hibernia Kiss Nellys, Apricot beauty, Apeldorn Elite, Christmas Marvel, or Gander.

    Growing tulips in a vase

    What you need:

    Large bulbs;

    Transparent tall vases;

    Filling: glass beads, sea stones, sterilized rubble, plastic beads or gel balls replacing the substrate.

    Growing technology:

    Wrap the purchased and sorted bulbs in dark paper and put them on the shelf in the refrigerator door for 12-15 weeks;

    Prepare makeshift pots: put pebbles, beads and balls in a vase, fill one quarter with water;

    Plant the matured bulbs with sprouts up and fix them with the "soil" - the bulbs should not touch the water;

    Place the vases in a cool place without direct sunlight for 4-5 weeks until green shoots appear;

    Place your tulips on a windowsill on a sunny side;

    Just a few weeks of waiting and your apartment will turn into a flower garden.

    The flowering time will be about two weeks, so be sure to prepare the bulbs for the next planting in advance. Those. after the opening of the first flower, you can prepare the following vases so that the flowers on your windowsill bloom without interruption.

    Growing tulips in flower pots

    What you need:

    Large bulbs that have been cold treated for at least 12 weeks;

    Planting containers not smaller than 15 cm;

    Drainage to the bottom;

    Prepared soil mixture.

    Growing technology:

    Fill the pots one-third of the height with earth;

    Arrange the bulbs, sprouts up, 1 cm apart;

    Cover with earth to the top of the pot, water and add earth as needed;

    Put the pots in the cellar for several weeks, check the moisture content of the earth;

    When the height of the seedlings is 5 cm, you can transfer the pots to the room, covering them with a paper cap to protect from sunlight;

    After a few days, the caps can be removed, in winter time you will need additional lighting for the flowers;

    Enjoy blooming any time of the year.

    You can extend the flowering period by placing the pots in a cool room at night. Do not forget about mandatory watering. It is not recommended to reuse the bulbs of tulips grown at home for this purpose, so send them safely to the country and to next year they will delight you with their flowering in natural conditions... Try to plant the bulbs in an old tree stump on the site - this will original idea for a blooming flowerpot.

    Good luck with your experiments and spring mood all year round!

First you need to decide on the "quality of the shadow", because it can be very different.

  1. Stable, for example, along the north wall of the house, where the direct sun never looks.
  2. Partial shadow, for example, near a wall facing east, where there is sun in the morning and a stable shadow in the late afternoon.
  3. Scattered, for example, under the crowns of trees or bushes.

It should be noted right away that abundant flowering crops for shade, giving bright flowers all summer, not so many, or at least not to be found in the lists of habitual summers. Most truly shade-tolerant plants have delicate, delicate flowers that fade quickly. And most of them are perennials that rarely give flowers all summer long - it makes sense to think about several crops that will replace each other.

Therefore, we will consider all cultures for shade that will provide a bright decorative effect, not necessarily due to flowers, but, for example, beautiful leaves, during the entire warm season, and also consider the flowering time of all possible crops for different types shadows.

The most spectacular and long-lasting blooming crops that can tolerate partial shade

Below are the flowers that bloom really brightly for partial shade, partial or diffuse shade:

  1. - many spectacular hybrid varieties for abundant flowering, they require good lighting, but in nature this plant grows at the edges of forests, that is, in partial shade, so it is quite possible to create a beautifully flowering flower bed of daylilies in the shade, if you choose the right varieties - it is especially beautiful in partial shade (in the morning - the sun, in the afternoon - a light shadow) varieties look dark shades(red-black, violet-black, purple), they fade in the sun and quickly fade. By the timing of flowering there is different groups, the duration of flowering is about a month, but you can combine different varieties and get a long-flowering flower bed.
  2. - for abundant flowering, good lighting is desirable for him in the morning and shadow starting at noon... Blooms from early June to late July, after correct pruning blooms again by the end of August.
  3. blooms all summer, feels great in partial shade, flowers like a foxglove, only brighter and larger, pretty rare plant, although undeservedly.
  4. Pansies- this charming annual grows both in the sun and in partial shade. In the sun, the flowers are larger and brighter, but in partial shade, the flowering will be longer. The flowering time can be varied at your discretion (by sowing seeds at different times).
  5. Balsam- the plant does not tolerate direct sunlight, it only needs diffused light. Blooms from July to frost.
  6. Eternal begonia- requires bright, but diffused light, in the direct sun it can burn out, blooms all the time, grown in the open field seedling method like an annual.
  7. Scented tobacco- blooms from June to frost. Loves well-lit places, but light partial shade is acceptable.
  8. Astilba- blooms in June-July, about a month, loves a thin soft shadow. Panicle flowers are very effective, there are a lot of varieties. The appearance of the plant is elegant, feminine, bright.
  9. Astrantia- the flowering period depends on the variety, but this is one of the longest-lasting plants, some varieties bloom from June to the end of September, feels good in the sun, in partial shade, and even in full shade (only in strongly shaded places the flowering will not be so bright), grows well under trees.
  10. Mimulus- in direct sun it can burn, the best place is well lit, but with partial shading. It blooms with original flowers, reminiscent of orchids, in two waves - in spring and autumn.

Astilbe and host 'Sun Power'

Medicinal, spicy, aromatic herbs feel good in partial shade:

  1. peppermint,
  2. radiola pink,
  3. tarragon,
  4. borago,
  5. perennial bows,
  6. lemon balm.

Penumbra or diffused shadow tolerate well species peonies: Maryin root, Caucasian, Wittmann - bloom from early May to late June, since August, the bushes are decorated with quite spectacular fruits. Many herbs and grains also grow well in partial shade (cortaderia, gray fescue).

Of the bulbous, they tolerate the lack of lighting well:

  1. Daffodils.
  2. Kandyk.
  3. Merendera.
  4. Grouse.
  5. White flower.
  6. Scylla (scrub).
  7. Korolkovia.
  8. Iridodictums.
  9. Pushkinia.
  10. Muscari.
  11. Crocuses.
  12. Hyacintoides.

Tulips, primroses, pansies.

Plants that love light but can thrive in partial shade

That is, these plants can give abundant flowering in a flower bed, for example, from the west or east side of the house, where light only hits part of the day. If they are planted on such a site, then you should treat them as capricious, and provide very good other conditions ( correct soil, watering, feeding). All these plants bloom brightly and for a long time:

  1. Snapdragon.
  2. Ageratum.
  3. Levkoy.
  4. Balsam.
  5. Lobelia.
  6. Poppy self-seeding.
  7. Petunia.
  8. Pansies.
  9. Sweet pea.
  10. Kobei.
  11. Cloves of grenadines.
  12. Daisies.
  13. Heliotrope.
  14. The bell is medium and large-flowered.

The bell is medium.

Flowering plants for thick shade

These are plants for shade that the direct sun never hits. They will feel good in the shade of buildings, even from the north side, under the dense crown of trees, near the fence:

  1. Aquilegia (catchment)blooms in June-July... The flowering time can be extended by picking off wilted flowers, preventing them from tying seed pods.
  2. . Almost all species grow well in partial shade, curly aconite thrives in the shade. The flowering time is different - from 20 to 60 days depending on the type... Extremely poisonous!
  3. Brunner- blooms in the spring, at good care re-flowering in autumn is possible.
  4. Cyanosis.
  5. Fragrant violet.
  6. Swimsuit.
  7. Common primrose.
  8. Chistous.
  9. Forget-me-nots.
  10. Digitalis.
  11. Anemone.
  12. Black cohosh.
  13. May lily of the valley.
  14. Fragrant violet.
  15. The tiarka is cordial.
  16. Kupena.
  17. Elecampane is magnificent.
  18. The navel is spring.
  19. Lungwort.
  20. Fragrant woodruff.
  21. Turkish carnation.
  22. Cuff.
  23. Mountain cornflower.
  24. Dicenter.
  25. Eastern Doronicum.
  26. Gentian.
  27. Garden geranium.
  28. Avens.
  29. Hellebore.
  30. Siberian irises.

Ferns (ferns, ostrich) look great in the shade, although they do not bloom.

Variegated lily of the valley and astilba.

Shadow under the trees

Some tree species create a light openwork shade, but at the same time they greatly dry the soil and this factor must be taken into account, because most shade-tolerant crops prefer moisture. Grow well in shade and dryness:

  1. bought broadleaf,
  2. periwinkle,
  3. mountain woman,
  4. anemone forest.
  5. spring primrose,
  6. badan,
  7. comfrey,
  8. garden geranium red-brown or Balkan.
  9. cereals.

Under a pine tree, where sandy or sandy loam soil:

  • lilies of the valley,
  • periwinkle,
  • tenacious
  • violets.

Trees and shrubs for shady areas

Shade-tolerant trees and shrubs may be required for compositions:

  • Korean fir,
  • elderberry black,

Vines for shade

Most popular for shady areas:

  • round-leaved wood pliers - versatile, grows both in good lighting and in the shade, and in partial shade. However, it does not bear fruit in dense shade;
  • actinidia kolomikta - beautiful decorative leaves variegated changeable color;
  • ivy - grows well even with strong shade.

It is worth noting that most lianas, being plants that depend on a support, which in nature is usually a tall, shading tree, are used to a lack of lighting.

This even applies to such a spectacular culture as. Many large-flowered hybrids like coolness, no higher than 25 degrees, and light or shade is secondary for them and shade may even be preferable if it gives coolness.

Gaulteria (with red berries), skimmia, hellebores and ivy.

Ornamental deciduous

Spectacular shade measurers with expressive foliage:

  1. - blooms for a month from mid-July to mid-August. It has exotic leaves, decorative all season and especially beautiful in autumn.
  2. - blooms for about a month, in August. Powerful, succulent, sculptural plant.
  3. - flowering depends on the variety, some varieties are incredibly persistent flowering - up to 2 months. Textured appearance, fleshy round leaves. Ideal conditions for culture - partial shade.
  4. - blooms for about a month in mid-summer with spectacular panicles. Openwork foliage. The plant is graceful, refined, elegant, lush.
  5. - Planting recommendations vary greatly. In any case, varieties with a dark color of leaves feel great in strong shading, lighter ones need light partial shade. The appearance of the plant is exotic, vibrant, vibrant.
  6. - classic shaded areas. Decorative throughout the growing season. It goes well with any other plants, has a lot of shapes and colors that are good both in single plantings and in compositions.
  7. Byzantine chastetz- likes good lighting, but grows well in partial shade. It attracts attention with pubescent, woolen leaves of a bluish-gray hue.

Groundcover:

  1. Pachisandra- frost-resistant dwarf shrub up to 25-35 cm high. Flowering is inexpressive, but appreciated for its dense, decorative foliage that does not change its appearance throughout the year.
  2. Haulteria- an evergreen ground cover shrub with a height of 10-15 cm, blooms with graceful white flowers in June-August, then the plant is decorated with spectacular bright edible fruits that last until late spring. Feels great under trees.
  3. White-bordered snow- beautiful white-green foliage, the plant is very unpretentious.
  4. Mother of thousands- the leaves are similar to ivy leaves, beautiful "lipped" flowers appear on the plant from June to frost.
  5. European hoof- has juicy, fleshy, large and dense hoof-shaped leaves, creates a dense covering.
  6. Lamb- very beautiful silvery leaves, bright spongy flowers. He loves good lighting, but sparse, optimal places are those where the western or eastern sun falls.

Hosta, geranium, yarnotka.

Container garden in the shade

Shade-tolerant plants that do not winter outdoors in the middle lane, but you can plant them in pots and create a container flower bed. If desired, they can be dug in so that the pot is not visible. If there is an opportunity to tinker with digging for the winter, you can plant them in the open ground for the summer, although this is rare for the middle lane. All of the plants listed below are decorative all summer long and cannot tolerate direct sunlight. The best place for them - partial shade, or eastern windows:

  1. Skimmia- semi-shrub, leathery glossy foliage, bright inflorescences all year round.
  2. Coleus- does not like the direct scorching rays of the sun. Highly decorative all summer long.
  3. Begonias- both tuberous and ever-flowering need bright diffused light, but not the scorching sun.
  4. Caladiums- in the West, they are actively grown in open ground, in the middle lane, only in a pot culture. The leaves are incredibly beautiful.
  5. Fuchsia- needs no introduction. Charming in standard form. Blooms from spring to late autumn, feels good in partial shade.
  6. Torenia- blooms all summer. Requires good lighting, but does not like direct midday sun.

Composition example

To create a flower bed in the shade that blooms all summer long, you can competently "mix" plants with different, albeit short, flowering periods.

For example, a composition for a very wet partial shade:

  1. Kaluzhnitsa - low bushes, 30-40 cm, blooms in early spring, from late April to May, for 2-3 weeks. There are terry varieties.
  2. Lungwort.
  3. Forget-me-not.
  4. Astilba.
  5. Hosts.
  6. Garden geranium. Best views for shade: Himalayan, marsh, meadow.

On the photo Terry Kaluzhnitsa - Caltha palustris 'Flore Pleno'

Top 10 shade-tolerant flowers on video

Review of ornamental plants for shade from HitSadTV channel. The presentation of the material is original - in the form of a rating with winners and losers. Of course, the places are determined by the opinion of the channel's editors. It is all the more interesting to make your own rating of the most beautiful shade-tolerant crops.

Unpretentious shade-loving perennials

The video below shows a selection of the most energy-efficient shade-loving flowers: these are perennials, which means they do not need to be planted every year, they are generally unpretentious, which means they do not require "dancing with tambourines".

A flower bed with tulips will be colorful and healthy if the gardener chooses the right place for its organization, prepares purchased or his own bulbs and soil for planting, selects the optimal planting time, provides high-quality care for the planted flowers and the entire flower bed.

Few amateur florists do not have at least a couple of tulip varieties in their collection. These flowers are easy to care for and come in a wide variety of shapes and shades, which makes them such a desirable flower bed decoration. Every spring, millions of flower beds bloom across the country, where these wonderful plants are planted. And although it is believed that there is no more optimal time to plant them than early autumn, experienced gardeners know a few tricks on how to plant tulips in spring to make them bloom.

Preparing purchased bulbs

If the bulbs were at your disposal in the fall, then it is better to plant them in the fall. Optimal time for this September - early October. If the planting material fell into your hands in late autumn or winter, there is no point in planting it in open ground, even if the weather permits.

It is recommended to store the bulbs in a cool dry place until spring, such as in the refrigerator (but not in the freezer). Under influence low temperatures special chemical and physiological processes take place in them, which then contribute to better germination and flowering of plants. Even if you purchased the bulbs just in time for planting, they still need to be kept in the cold for at least 12 hours for them to germinate better.

In late February - early March, after wintering, the planting material must be disinfected in a weakly concentrated manganese solution. In it, the bulbs should be held for half an hour before planting tulips in a pot at home (only in spring they can be transplanted into open ground). The distance between the bulbs can be minimal. From above, they are covered with a five-centimeter layer of earth and so left in a warm (heated) room for about a month until sprouts appear. Only then can tulips be planted outdoors.

If the spring is early and the snow has melted in March, you can try planting the bulbs directly in the open ground. But in this case, be prepared that in the event of more or less severe frosts, the plants may die, and if this does not happen, then the flowers will appear much later in any case than those of those tulips that were planted in the fall.

It should also be noted that if you decide to plant blooming tulips in spring, then it is better to just transfer the pot to the flower bed and leave it that way. In extreme cases, you can carefully remove them from the pot, trying not to disturb the clod of earth, since otherwise the plant will not be able to take root and die.

Preparing your bulbs

If you use bulbs obtained from your own flower garden as seed, they should also be pre-planted. Before planting tulips in spring, they must be subjected to the following procedures:

  • The bulbs dug from the flower bed must be peeled from the tough outer skin and the bare bulb must be examined for defects and diseases. In addition, the "naked" bulb is able to more efficiently obtain nutrients from the soil.
  • Further, the planting material is degreased and disinfected. To do this, you can use the already mentioned potassium permanganate solution or a special preparation. An alternative to chemistry is celandine solution, in which the bulbs should be kept for about half an hour. This will help kill fungi and bacteria that can damage the bulbs.
  • When planting bulbs in pots, it is recommended to use only a clean substrate, since soil taken simply from a flower bed may contain putrefactive bacteria. By the way, it is also recommended to completely replace the topsoil in the flowerbed itself for the same reasons.

Soil preparation

So, we have already answered the question of whether it is possible to plant tulips in spring. You can, if you know some tricks. But in general, the process of spring planting is not much different from the autumn one. The most important thing in the spring planting of tulips, as well as roses, lilies, or any other flowers, is the correct preparation of the land plot.

The soil in the flowerbed must be dug to the depth of the shovel bayonet, that is, by about 25 cm.To increase the permeability of the soil (do not forget that tulip bulbs do not tolerate high humidity), it is recommended to add coarse sand to it. Also, do not forget about fertilizers, in particular about humus (but just do not use fresh manure).

For preventive purposes, the flower garden can be treated with a light fungicidal solution that will kill fungal diseases contained in the soil. If the problem is found already on adult plants, it is recommended to treat it with a solution of twenty grams of working substance per 10 liters of water.

Spring planting tricks

In open ground, adult large bulbs are usually planted one at a time, but last year's "kids" can be placed in groups of five to ten in one hole. Since the stems of tulips rise high enough above the ground to create a continuous carpet of ornamental plants in the flower bed, they can be planted with low-growing flowers (for example, forget-me-nots or daisies), or ornamental grasses - host, astilba, or bruners.

Planting depth also depends on the size of the bulbs used. Large ones are located at a depth of 10-15 cm, small ones - 7-8 cm.The distance between the planted plants should also be about 8-10 cm.The distance between the rows should be more - 20-25 cm.

When placing the bulbs in the garden, they must be carefully placed in the hole, but in no case pressed into the soil, as this can damage the root system, which at best will slow down the growth of shoots.

Since tulips do not tolerate excess moisture, make sure the flower bed is sloping. It is unacceptable that there are pits and depressions in the flower garden that can accumulate rainwater.

It is also worth telling another tricky way to plant tulips in the spring in the country. Dutch professional flower growers practice the so-called "floor method" of planting bulbous flowers, which is now adopted by many domestic gardeners. This method allows you to simultaneously plant several types of flowers with different flowering periods on the same flower bed. Planting technology is extremely simple and involves planting bulbs at different depths. For example, tulip bulbs are first planted, covered with a five-centimeter layer of soil, and then, for example, hyacinths are planted on top. On top of the hyacinths, another layer of earth is placed and, say, crocuses are planted in it. As a result, you get a flower bed, where three types of flowers bloom and fade at once, and you just admire them and do nothing.

Now let's take a closer look at the question of when you can plant tulips in the spring so that they give strong shoots that can bloom beautifully. This issue is no less important than the preparation of the flower bed, since the survival of the plants depends on how optimal the planting time was.

As mentioned, tulips are best planted in the fall between early September and mid-October. However, since we are talking about spring planting, then its own rules apply here, and there is its own optimal period for planting in open ground.

If the bulbs are planted too early and they germinate before the night frost period ends, the young shoots, and possibly the entire bulb, will die. If you delay planting longer than necessary, the plants will germinate normally and nothing will threaten them, but there is a high risk that they will not bloom this year.

It is believed that tulips can be planted in open ground when the ground at the planting depth warms up to 9-10 degrees Celsius. Depending on the region, this can be from mid-March to early May.

Flower garden care

Since spring planting is not a biological norm for tulips, the issue of high-quality and timely plant nutrition becomes even more urgent. Whether tulips planted in spring will bloom largely depends on this. In order for the shoots to give beautiful flowers, and then form strong viable bulbs, they need to be fed three times:

  1. For the first time, fertilizers are applied immediately after germination.
  2. The second feeding is carried out shortly before the beginning of flowering, which will require a lot of energy from the plants.
  3. The last time tulips are fed immediately after flowering, when the active formation of new bulbs begins.

For feeding, you can use complex fertilizers created specifically for tulips. If this method does not suit you for some reason, you can apply fertilizers separately. In particular, tulips can be fed with nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, ammonium nitrate, etc.), potassium sulfate, phosphorus (superphosphate, calcium phosphate, bone meal).

Choosing a site for a flower garden

In conclusion, it is worth talking a little about where exactly tulips should be planted. These flowers have certain preferences for growing conditions, so by providing them with such conditions, you can achieve truly amazing results. In particular, when choosing a landing site, keep in mind that:

  • Tulips love light and don't like shade. Make sure there is no shade on the flower bed during the day, neither from trees, nor from buildings or other structures.
  • Blooming tulips are afraid of strong winds. To prevent the buds from crumbling ahead of time, protect the flower garden with a barrier of some shrubs or create a low fence from the most windy directions.
  • In excess wet ground the bulbs rot. If the soil on your site is oversaturated with moisture, raise the flower bed above the general ground level by 25-30 cm and create drainage in it by pouring a layer of rubble under it, broken brick or at least coarse sand.